This is part of the fourteenth section of our around
the world trip.
Complete Trip Overview & Map
Coming from Guam
20/2/08 An easy friendly arrival in Palau, no one needed to see our
onward ticket and we were given a 30 day visit. A call to the shipping
agent and the motorcycle should be here Saturday, in three day's time,
but won't be available till Monday. With the population of this small country
just 20,000 of which a quarter is foreign workers, it has a small personal
feel. In fact the Harley shop in Guam organised a ride on the island the
last two years, shipping their motorcycles across for the event. The president
of Palau, Mr Tommy, joined the ride, and since reportedly purchased four Harleys.
Emails from the Harley shop owner in Guam to the President of Palau, advised
him of our arrival.
21/2/08 Settled by Indonesians three thousand years ago the string
of islands that make up Palau trail out westward almost connecting the two
countries. The capital, Koror, linked to the
largest island by a bridge, is about seven degrees above the equator
and usually misses hurricanes but gets dumped on by massive amounts of rain
making it a green haven. The President's Office phoned to welcome us to the
island, advising the President will be off island for a few days but would
like to meet us on his return. We have never met the president of a country
before, Bush didn't invite us to the white house. A business day, starting
at customs to clear the motorcycle. Friendly officers, relaxed by chewing
beetle nut, ground coral limestone wrapped in a pepper leaf, they completed
the paperwork and the motorcycle was cleared, no duty payable. Western Pacific
Shipping Company advised the ship was arriving early and we could collect
the motorcycle in two day's time. Onto organising flights out of Palau,
and the price of going via Taiwan to Korea, with a Taiwan stop over was
the same as a direct flight, so there seemed to be no reason not to visit
Taiwan. We have found it is difficult to get cheap flights from outside
a country but then encounter the problem of not having an onward ticket
when we arrive, a difficult balance. Two ships visit Palau that circle this
region. The one the motorcycle is arriving on rotates every three weeks, and
takes deck
cargo, but doesn't visit Taiwan, so the motorcycle would take three weeks
to get there, transhipping through Korea. The other vessel only takes full
containers, goes via Hong Kong and takes just ten days, so shipping to Taiwan
is more difficult and by the end of the day we hadn't resolved our options.
22/2/08 Tree-D hotel also operates apartments and we moved into a
two bedroomed one for the next week, more comfortable and cheaper than the
hotel. Teaming up with another retired Australian couple, in intermittent
rain, we snorkelled off the southern tip of Malakal Island where there
is a clam breeding facility. Enormous clams, some over a quarter of a ton
in weight, and while there the ship carrying our motorcycle steamed into
the harbour.
23/2/08 They didn't unload deck cargo yesterday in the heavy rain,
the high tide preventing the fork lift from accessing the slippery ship's
ramp. The only way we could get the motorcycle when we arrived at 7.30
am this morning was to uncrate it on the vessel, then ride it off, the
crate would be offloaded at a lower tide just before the port closed. By
10.00 am customs, after
a few photos, allowed us to leave the port area and we were riding in
the 185th sovereign country with just 8 more to visit, (depending on how
Kosovo's recent declaration of independence is considered). A ride over to
the island of Arakabesang and a walk around the newish Palau Pacific Resort
to see how the short term holidayers spend their time and money before calling
into Sam's Tours, a relaxing bar packed with divers returning at the end
of their day's diving. Most of the coral islands are mushroom shaped limestone,
growing green jungle on top contrasting turquoise waters. Islands and canals
dot every view, and just riding about gives magnificent views.
24/2/08 Palau is rapidly becoming our favourite island country. Pleasant
people, stunning scenery and relaxed lifestyle. The largest island in the
chain is Babeldaob and is earmarked for future development. Almost all
the population currently lives on the small island of Koror, already linked
by causeways to neighbouring islands, which are rapidly outgrowing themselves.
We looped Babeldaob, a volcanic island to the north, its high quality new
road built with international assistance, along with Palau's new capital,
situated half way up this almost empty land mass. At the northern
tip are the remains of a past civilisation, stone foundations of a large
building and stone carved faces is all that is now visible. Disused terraced
gardens from a later era can be seen in other places but today's Palauans
neither carve rocks nor terraces. Small subsistence gardens of taro and cassava,
combined with seafood is more the staple food, or a growing reliance on
western supermarket products. With low population pressures the island has
remained covered in vegetation, much rainforest, getting four metres of
rain a year.
25/2/08 Yachties always seem to be good company for us as other travellers,
particularly when there are few motorcycles around. The small nautical band
congregate together on the water near Sam's Tours and in the evening we met
three couples. The newbey's to the game, a couple of Aussies, out for three
months on their around the world trip, arrived here from PNG and head out
to the Philippines tomorrow. Longer sailing couples, from the US, one out
for eleven years and the others a mammoth twenty plus years, the last twelve
in Palau, and are still living on their original yacht. The week long holiday
SCUBA divers at the bar probably
couldn't understand this older bunch of tanned wrinklies.
26/2/08 Despite proposing many options to the shipping company that
ships to Taiwan we were unable to convince them to let the motorcycle on
as deck cargo and it would need to take a whole container, $US 1,000.00 plus
handling charges at both ends. It seems our only option is to use the same
vessel the motorcycle arrived here on, shipping through Korea, and still
$US 800.00. It returns to Palau in three weeks time and takes over two weeks
to tranship through to Taiwan. Not the best option but the most economical.
27-28/2/08 Settling in to our month in Palau, the two bedroom apartment's
rental was extended to mid next month. We also visited the port to talk to
the captain of another vessel, hoping he would allow us to put the motorcycle
on as deck cargo, not too optimistic, but he will email us prior to the ship's
return in three weeks time, otherwise pretty slow days as rain showers passed
through on the lush island.
29/2/08 Carp Island
to the south of the main chain has a small resort that allows camping
and we took the fast commuter boat there, past a number of the limestone
mushroom shaped islands. Mostly aimed at the Japanese market we were the
only westerners, but a group of Filipino workers livened up the place. Carp
Island is surrounded mostly by sandy beaches and mangroves with a tropical
rainforest interior. A midday walk through its interior, through mangroves
and out to the other side where there was the remains of some stone money,
made for transport to the island of Yap, but it never made the voyage. Alone
on our side of the island we broke open a newly sprouted coconut, revealing
its "apple" like interior, something we had first experienced in the Comoros
a couple of years ago. Refreshing and textured like an apple, just another
form of the very edible coconut plant. Later in the afternoon we rented a
two person sea kayak, headed out to "Turtle Cove", and snorkelled the afternoon
away.
1/3/08 Back in the kayak this morning, a four hour rental we could
spend more time exploring around the fringing islands before heading back
to snorkel. The fish life was excellent, white and black tipped reef sharks,
a few
turtles, not worried about our presence, kept grazing on the coral reef
front. Part way through the snorkelling a large eagle ray slowly moved along
the wall, swimming just below us. The usual coral reef fish plus large barracuda,
hump back wrass, and mackerel. As it was $US 30.00 each for camping, but
with a free boat transfer, we decided to stay just one night, planning to
return, leaving mid afternoon totally exhausted the powerful boat wound its
way back to Koror weaving through the rock islands, a spectacular ride.
2-4/3/08 Did very little, getting over the past couple of days exhaustions,
resting in our air-conditioned apartment. The captain of the vessel we asked
to deck carry our motorcycle to Taiwan emailed, unfortunately the answer
was a no, but he contacted his boss who said they would look into doing a
special whole container arrangement, we wait and hope. A couple of social
outings, back at Sam's tours, mingling again with the boat crowd, and looked
into taking the motorcycle to another island, by government boat to the south
for a few days.
5/3/08 There are sixteen states that make up the country of Palau,
that is less than 1000
people per state, but some of the ten states that make up the island
of Babeldaob have less than 250 people. Each state strives for its own recognition.
Ngardmau's claim to fame is its waterfall, reportedly the biggest in Micronesia,
and a big revenue raiser at $US 5.00 a visit. Luckily such waterfall fees
are not volume related or it would be over a million dollars to visit Iguasu
Falls in Argentina. It is a pleasant, a little muddy, walk, mostly through
forest, along an old Japanese railway line, a creek and small river to arrive
at the pretty but certainly not spectacular falls. The warm walk tempts most,
Japanese and Koreans, to stand beneath the falls to cool off, massaged by
the large drops. We visited the falls on another ride of the magnificent
loop road around Babeldaob, missing most rain showers, feeling island bound
and wanting to ride more, and more.
6/3/08 Hopefully the last of our list of jobs on the motorcycle, well
at least for the time being. Working under the front fairing to find and
fix a couple of electrical problems. One wire had worn through, rubbing on
the radio, it had been shorting out for a while, tripping the relay. The high
beam light on the headlight wasn't working and turned out to be a broken solder
on the handlebar switch. Also connected a new alarm, and power to an
inverter to run the lap top and power to heated jackets and gloves, in anticipation
of cold weather, somewhere ahead in the world, perhaps, not sure where at
this stage.
7/3/08 Finished working on the motorcycle again outside our apartment,
dodging storms and the heat of the day, talked to the other residents, a
mix of locals and westerners. We managed to borrow a few tools we don't carry
and even received an invite from the driver of a passing car, the manager
of a local restaurant, for a Mexican dinner and a margarita. David and Margaret
run the Bandidos Mexican Restaurant in Koror, are thinking of riding a Harley
across the USA in about a year's time, we had a pleasant evening exchanging
local and travel stories.
8/3/08 The full container option for the motorcycle died this morning
when we received a negative on a substantial discount so the motorcycle will
go as break bulk via Korea then in a shared container to Taiwan, leaving
Palau on the 15th. We will follow by air on the 22nd. Never good at doing
loops or out and backs on the motorcycle, preferring to move on to
new destinations, as we travel around the world, we are finding the timing
restrictions of being effectively held captive in a country, by shipping
logistics, a little wearying. The countries we are now visiting all have
interests, often unique, but we travel to ride more than ride to travel.
9/3/08 Sam's Tours collected us at our hotel in the morning. We had
arranged to do their snorkel tour and took the option of camping overnight
on one of the rock islands, an unusual event we were told as most people
come to Palau on a package tour, staying only a few nights. The country is
aiming towards upmarket tourism and the $US 35.00 ten day validity permit
to use the Rock Islands park and Jelly Fish Lake, same for a one day visit,
is quite steep. Our boatload was a mix of nationalities, Sam's Tours attracting
most of the non package tourists, headed first to "Milky Way", where slimy
white coloured mud can be lathered onto the body, with all its reputed great
healing and regenerative properties, wrinkle reduction, even a product used
by Michael Jackson? was alluded to. The extent of the Asian package tourists
unravelled here as eight fast boats, carrying 20-30 tourists each, moved into
the area. We washed off
the mud and moved onto a snorkel area, roped off, a slow drift
from one buoy to another, and were instantly overrun by small fish, nibbling
at our out held hands, a sure indication that they are fed to ensure the
tourists see their density of bright colours. Our tour operator resisted
the temptation to feeding but others take a different view. The fish and
corals were quite magnificent. The highlight of the tour is Jelly Fish Lake.
Separated from the ocean a long time ago, surrounded by limestone hills,
this large lake contains millions of hand sized, half moon jelly fish, which
have lost their ability to sting. Seeking out the sun and warm waters to
the middle of the lake we snorkelled amongst them, our fins gently swishing
them away in the disturbed water, brushing past their golden bodies. Just
floating, watching their pulsating bodies, oblivious to our interest or the
broader world, they had unknowingly found jelly fish heaven, no predators,
and the sun for food. Lunch and a snorkel with a dozen sharks. Black tip
reef sharks are the predominant ones we have been seeing. Again fed to ensure
their presence at call, mostly at two metres long, they were impressive to
see circling, remoras attached and small fish looking for the spills of food.
A short snorkel with
giant clams at an old clam breeding facility and we were taken to Long
Island for camping. Used as a day area, the last of the Taiwanese were just
leaving as we arrived and within a few minutes we had the beach to ourselves.
With a red cloud-filtered sunset coming in and the tide rising across the
sand spit small reef sharks came into the shallows, a couple rolling together,
either fighting or mating we weren't sure. We had opened a couple of coconuts,
discarding some of the meat, which attracted a small, fist sized, coconut
crab. Unperterbed at our presence he started munching the coconut as we
photographed. Salty we stood naked, well at least I did, as an after dark
storm passed through, washing the day's salt from our bodies, dried we slept
soundly in the tent.
10/3/08 It rained off and on during the night. The wind warning us
of its approach but the tent stayed dry and we were awake near dawn to again
see sharks feeding in the shallows. The tour boats stayed away till after
our morning snorkel along the island's undercut rocky face where corals and
fish live in a narrow band between land and sand. Near 200 people rolled
through for lunch, spread out on what was our private beach the night before.
Another snorkel, early afternoon and just as the lunchtime crowd was dispersing
our boat arrived and with a cruise through more rock islands, a late afternoon
snorkel with large humped back wrass, and we were back at Sam's in early
evening, after a great two days.
11-13/3/08 Back in Koror. Another quick ride around Babeldaob, our
last good ride for at least a few weeks, only a couple of hours, but the
best riding in the Pacific so far for us. Dinners out with the yachtie crowd
on a couple of evening. Repacked to travel without the motorcycle for the
next few weeks both here and in Taiwan. Washed the motorcycle and pretty
much did not do much for a few days.
14/3/08 We had two options for the motorcycle's arrival point in
Taiwan after its transhipping through Korea, either Keelung or Kaohsiung.
We opted for Keelung, a semi-guaranteed arrival date of 31st March, or four
days earlier than Kaohsiung and much closer to Taipei, where we fly into
and out of. The only negative seems to be the difficulty of clearing it with
customs. Emil and Liliana, who visited Taiwan recently on their mammoth trip
with their car, arrived through Kaohsiung, had manageable difficulties,
but now have contacts there, something we won't have in Keelung. Again packed
the motorcycle into our metal crate at the wharf, and hope to see it next
in Keelung, the ship leaves in two days time.
15/3/08 Most western tourists come to Palau to dive, dive and more
diving. Kay opted just to snorkel, but wanting to see what all the hype
was about we joined a dive boat out from Sam's tours. A fast twin 150 hp
twin outboard flat boat carrying ten divers plus Kay headed south for an
hour to German Channel. It is over three years since I have dived, in the
Philippines, but being an ex-instructor of many dives the boat and gear
routine flooded back quickly. An escorted dive, a divemaster leading and
one following, no buddies, we were shepherded across good corals, sighting
a vast array of fish, a couple of turtles, and at a manta cleaning station,
one arriving as we did, doing two passes within a couple of metres of some
divers, whilst being cleaned of parasites, our group sat on the sandy seabed
in awe at the three metres wingspan of the underwater bird. A good dive,
but concerned that two divers ran out of air. One, used to using
pounds and not bar, entered with only a half full tank, it was sucked
dry before a divemaster escorted him to the surface on his octopus spare
regulator. The other diver just breathed heavily and ended the dive on the
other divemaster's spare regulator. Both situations a little casual for
my liking. The second dive at Big Drop Off, was less eventful. A sheer wall
dive we drifted in the current as the wall passed before us. A couple of
sharks, hump head wrass the bigger wildlife, sea fans, hard and soft corals
making up the wall hangings. Before we entered the water, locals assisting
a nearby Japanese film crew, swam over with a nautilus shell fish. These
animals are rarely seen alive, living at great depths, this one had been
trapped for the filming. We had the pleasure of releasing it. At the end
of each dive our boat collected us where we surfaced, avoiding that disliked
surface swim back. We had again chosen to camp and this time were deposited
on Two Dogs Beach just as the weekend local crowd were leaving, giving us
what we thought was going to be solitude for the night, however a boat dropped
a couple of local fishermen, after midnight, leaving them to cook a meal
whilst the others continued fishing. They apologised at disturbing our rest,
we slept, only to
see them departing at dawn.
16/3/08 The camping at Two Dogs was excellent. A large covered area
with a raised platform where we pitched the tent out of possible rain, we
could leave off the outer cover and had a good breeze blowing through. After
the departure of the fishermen the beach was ours till the influx of lunch
time tourists. A snorkel in the shallow waters and we were collected mid
afternoon, with another snorkel at Jelly Fish Lake. Apparently this lake
is just one of five, all packed with jellyfish. The remaining lakes are kept
pristine and without tourists. A couple of years ago all the jelly fish,
in all the lakes died. The lakes, open to the sea through small holes in
the limestone, became too warm, the jelly fish couldn't photosynthesize,
and like coral bleaching, they died. Luckily larvae at the bottom of the
lakes regenerated the population to its current millions. We found a patch
of jelly's even denser than on the previous visit, and more difficult to
swim through without damaging them.
17/3/08 Back in Koror, and needing to rest and get some mundane jobs
done. The motorcycle
left as scheduled. Kyowa Line seems to be the most efficient we have dealt
with so far. They measured the crate at 10% smaller than previously, a bonus,
and we paid our account, no extra charges, finalised customs, nice and relaxed,
received our Bill Of Lading, and hope to see the motorcycle in Keelung,
Taiwan, early next month.
18/3/08 Another year older for me, 55, is that the end of middle
or the beginning of old aged now? A quiet day preparing for another trip
into the islands, our last.
19/3/08 Carp Island Resort again ferried us to their resort an hour's
fast boat ride away in the southern islands. The rock islands are starting
to lose that first time wow, but still retain their beauty, changing with
the tides and weather. We again camped, again the only ones, everyone else
was staying in cabins, holidaying in Palau for just a few days. We were
remembered and welcomed back, took to a two person kayak all afternoon,
venturing around Carp Island and other neighbouring islands, sometimes drift
snorkelling just holding onto the kayak and other times beaching the
kayak to snorkel offshore, a great afternoon. More turtles, sharks in
very shallow waters, their fins breaking the surface, seen both from the
kayak and whilst snorkelling, the islands to ourselves. A late birthday
bottle of wine back at the resort.
20/3/08 A walk across the island through rainforest and mangroves,
same track as last time, but with a full moon low tide sand bars extending
almost to neighbouring islands it allowed us to return to the resort walking
in the shallows along the coast. Finally coming across a barrier of muddy
ocean reedbeds we clambered between island vegetation clinging to rocky
overhangs and mangroves unable to move further inland to eventually return
to the sandy beached resort. Packed up, relaxed swinging in a hammock, waited
for the return boat to Koror and a hot shower.
21/3/08 Like the Maldives we are surprised here, how much foreign
aid is being spent in the country, mainly roads, US, Japanese and Taiwanese
aid money. A country which has a quarter of its population as imported temporary
labour. A country that gets plenty of foreign tourists, all spending plenty
of money. If efficiently run it shouldn't need this aid money? We had
a farewell lunch with the yachtie crowd we had become friendly with and
started preparing for tomorrow's departure to a more hectic country of millions,
not thousands of people.
22/3/08 Palau easily became our favourite place in the Pacific, so
far. The friendly people, easy lifestyle, along with plenty to see and do,
within a beautiful location. The charter flight of Far Eastern Transport
had us jetting to Taiwan.
Move with us to Taiwan
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
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