This is part of the thirteenth section of our around
the world trip.
Complete Trip Overview & Map
Coming from India
9/7/07 It was a short flight, barely an hour
to Colombo, but with the airport 30 km to the north of the city the bus
ride in heavy traffic took almost twice as long as the flight. Immediately
we could see we were in a more modern city, if not country, than where
we have recently been in India. One great enjoyment was the minimal use
of vehicle horns, something that had become an increasing annoyance in India.
We almost immediately met the two extremes of helpfulness and hindrance.
Needing to change buses we were escorted to the correct bus without us
asking for assistance and just minutes later were pounced upon by a lying
three wheeler driver (small taxi), who informed us the road was closed, we
couldn't walk there, pedestrians were banned but he would take us, just 200
rupees, five times the normal rate. The road ran near the prime minister's
residence but foot traffic was allowed, we ignored him and walked. As a couple
we can stay
at the YWCA, and are. Women add a homely appeal to any accommodation
they manage. Here is no exception.
10/7/07 We recently learnt that Sri Lanka has a 350cc maximum size
limit for importing motorcycles leaving us a bit apprehensive whether
we would be allowed to ride the motorcycle here. At the GGL Line shipping
office early and were surprised at the $US 120.00 paperwork and handling
fees, including what seemed to be a disproportionate share of the container
rental and cleaning costs? Colombo is "locked down" due to the 22 year
ongoing Tamil conflict. Armed police are everywhere. Many inner city streets
are closed to traffic, parking roadside is not allowed and some streets
are closed even for pedestrians. Identity papers need to be shown at many
check post barriers and police check bags for weapons and bombs often halting
buses to look through everyone's belongings. The port area is an even more
secure area and we needed to get a special pass to enter, showing valid
reason and were almost refused as we were not nationals of Sri Lanka. The
350cc maximum capacity for motorcycles was briefly discussed at customs
but as the motorcycle is only a temporary import it didn't seem to be a
problem. They accepted the carnet, after a letter explaining our reasons
for visiting the country, stamped and signed again by different officers
and with the need to inspect the engine
and chassis numbers we finally sighted the motorcycle, in its crate,
at one of the warehouses. Unfortunately our agent needs to pay the port
fees, which they hadn't done, before we can get clearance for it to leave
the area. A long day of chasing paperwork.
11/7/07 We had agreed to meet the shipping agent to finalise matters
early this morning. The man appointed to assist us with port procedures
was not familiar with them and we visited three offices before we could
start proceedings. By 10.30 we were little advanced and he had to leave
for another appointment. Kay and I split. I started to de-crate the motorcycle
and reassemble it while Kay went from one office to the next getting
signatures and paperwork done, everything having to be photocopied after
each signature and given to the next officer. One of the more confusing
port clearances we have done and we regretted rejecting a man yesterday
who offered to do it for $US 25.00. At the time we thought he was charging
us this price just to pay port charges, which in the whole scheme were
a very reasonable $US 5.00. We lost track of where we had been and who
had signed what in the end but estimate we visited 20 offices and got 12
signatures and needed to write three letters. The carnet alone has three
officer's stamps and five signatures. The officials were all very helpful,
not requesting any payments
from us yet we saw small money transferred to the storekeepers
for their signatures. Not so honest with us were the port police. We
needed to pass through two check posts to leave the port with the motorcycle
on a truck, couldn't get permission to ride it in the port area, the first
policeman asked for two dollars and the second one a dollar. Both were
refused, the last one loudly, voicing our opinion about requests for bribes
to the other police officers at Main Gate as we left. Everyone seemed to
be checking on everyone else, perhaps the result of this corruption. GGL
Line arranged to store the motorcycle crate till we need it to ship to
The Maldives and by 4pm we were riding in Sri Lanka only to be stopped
entering our hotel's street. It seems no vehicle without a special pass
can enter the street as it is near the Prime Minister's residence. Half an
hour later we had special clearance, one off, to enter the street for overnight
parking, after a search of the motorcycle and clearance from the Prime
Minister's special security forces. Later in the evening we booked our
flights to Male, and return to Colombo and then onward to Australia via
Bangkok. The flights were incredibly cheap as since the recent restarting
of Tamil conflict the number of tourists has dropped dramatically.
12/7/07 An early morning polite
visit to GGL Shipping to thank them for their assistance and arrange
onward shipping to Male, a final visit to customs to give them their
copy of the carnet, which they had left with us? and after a 20 minute
wait in a taxi for the Prime Minister's convoy to pass we collected the
airline tickets we had booked last night and left Colombo for a couple
of days rest on the southern beaches. Calling in at the first petrol station
we changed the motorcycle's three oils and were offered a free motorcycle
wash by the owner, well needed after India's dirt and the shipping. Understandably
the motorcycle attracts great attention as we ride along, there being no
other large bikes. Hikkaduwa, 100km south, an area heavily damaged by the
2004 Tsunami when over 30,000 people died, was slowly recovering when the
Tamil peace plan faltered, and now in the normal low season, almost all
hotel rooms are empty. We took a beachfront place, quiet and comfortable.
13/7/07 Out of Colombo we are away from the high police security
and can relax in this mostly Sinhalese, Buddhist region. The conflict here,
between the two ethnic groups, Sinhalese and Tamils or predominantly Buddhists
and Hindu's and where the approximately 10% Muslim population has chosen
not to get involved, is the only place in the world I can recall a religious
based
conflict that does not involve Muslims and is a sign of the religious
tolerance that has been part of the country's history. We pretty much
relaxed near the beach as storms passed by regularly.
14/7/07 Little things here show of a more modern, respectful society
than where we have been in India. On the road the vehicles generally
keep to their lanes, often use blinkers, have brake lights, use the horn
less and have police who actively police behaviour. The society is less
frenetic, more gentle, people keep a polite distance and respect our privacy
and touch the motorcycle less. At over 90% literacy they also read where
we have been, written on the motorcycle, avoiding the repetitive questioning.
Travelled 250km, along the coast, more tsunami damage, the older stone
and concrete buildings smashed with windows and doors blown out, the newer
concrete structures held up pretty well and the fishing shacks completely
gone. Some areas untouched, others flattened, depending on the topography
of the land and ocean floor. Up into the mountains late afternoon, an enjoyable
days riding, little traffic and time to look around as we moved. Settled
at Ella with views overlooking the plains.
15/7/07 Sri Lanka is a big small island, 400 x 200 km's, packed with
variety. The morning, after a lovely breakfast served on the terrace
looking down the valley,
true British style, was spent reorganising the motorcycle, a list
of the spares we carry, what is to be left behind and what to take back
to Australia with us. An afternoon walk to a popular lookout called Little
Adam's Peak where a small group of Tamil tea plantation workers have erected
a small temple and were preparing for an evening celebration of worship.
The views across the plantations with their canopy of large trees stunning.
The last two evenings our hotel has prepared, just for us as the only diners,
a variety of nine dishes, all vegetarian, all grown in the hotel's garden,
many vegetables we have not eaten before and with a variety of spices,
not called the spice island for nothing, quite delicious, but a little
hot to our tastes.
16/7/07 It seems like the overheating of the motorcycle's engine has
been resolved, well at least the problem seems to have been identified, the
solution could be a little more difficult. My thanks to Enrique, in Mendoza,
Argentina and the H-D mechanic he raised the problem with. When we put
the engine back together, using the manual, we read, "The arrow
on the top of the piston points to the front of the engine". There was
no reference to front or rear cylinder, in fact the schematic it referred
to was of the rear cylinder. Apparently the rear piston's arrow should have
pointed rear and the front piston's arrow pointed to the front. Doesn't
sound like
a big issue except that a H-D piston is a little complicated. It
is elliptical when viewed from the top, barrel shaped viewed from the
side and most importantly for this mistake, the piston pin hole is offset.
What damage 15,000 km's of running with a piston in backwards has caused
will be difficult to calculate. Still we are pleased to have identified
the problem and with only a few hundred more km's to travel this trip will
likely leave the piston in backwards till after we get back to Australia
and talk to a mechanic personally. (Note. August 2007, Our mechanic
in Australia confirmed we have placed the pistons in correctly, both arrows
to the front, so it is back to the drawing board on the overheating. One
point was raised that it could be the oil was circulating but not returning
to the sump to cool due to a partial blockage somewhere). Moved further
up into the hill country, 80km to 1900m above sea level at Nuwara Eliya,
where it was off and on drizzling and cold which benefits the vegetables
and tea grown in the area. An old British hill station with a lot of the
period buildings remaining and converted to hotels.
17/7/07 We had planned to stay two nights but with more mist and promise
of another cold rainy day we moved on to lower altitudes heading north up
the island's centre to Dambulla and onto the dryer plains nearer to sea level
and hot. Ceylon, Sri Lanka, is famous for it's tea and this early morning,
mist rolled down the hills across endless fields of it. Lower down but still
in a high rainfall area dozens of spice gardens have sprung up along the
roadside trying to attract tourists.
18/7/07 I now feel a little less
sympathy for the Sri Lankan pilgrims we encountered at Sarnath
in India having to pay the high foreign entry price to visit the place
of Buddha's first sermon. At the royal rock temples, Dambulla, a Buddhist
site, foreigners are charged $US 5.00 while locals are entered free. That
price, like a lot of things in Sri Lanka is going up fast, doubling to
$US 10.00 in a couple of months. Like many countries where different prices
are charged by the government for foreigners, the local businesses, hotels,
restaurants etc. like to get onto the two price system and it becomes a
constant battle not to, yet again, feel like a milked cow in this region
of the world. Entry to the ancient cities region further north is $US 20.00
for each site, free for Sri Lankans. Again we take every opportunity to voice
our opinion at such blatant discrimination. Wanting to see the cave temples
we paid the, not excessive, entry fee and were well rewarded. The over 100
stone carved, limestone covered and painted Buddha inside the five caves
elegantly hidden behind a whitewashed stone corridor were impressive, both
in themselves and their location. Not being the pilgrim season we could enjoy
the site without the crowds of visitors. Late afternoon we rode the 20km
to Sigirya, chose not to pay the twenty dollar entry fee and admired the
location of the ancient Buddhist monastery, situated atop a
volcanic plug, from a distance, before returning to the same accommodation.
19/7/07 Anuradhapura was the Sri Lankan capital from 380 BC for about
1000 years before succumbing to too many South Indian invasions and the
capital was moved further south. It is still a city today, one whose fringes
have partially intermingled with the ruins. We rode towards the ancient
site expecting to be turned back, as we had no entry ticket, but were allowed
to view many of the ruins from the distance of the road including what
was believedto be the tallest building, apart from the pyramids, in
the world at its construction time, Jetavanarama Dagoba. Having visited
many ancient cities we have learnt that just being in the area and reading
about its history is generally sufficient for our interests in most cases.
A more relaxing experience was had when we moved to nearby Mihintale, where
in 247 BC, the then king of Sri Lanka met the son of Ashoka, the Indian Buddhist
emperor, and was converted to Buddhism, starting the religion in Sri Lanka.
Here ancient and modern stupas dot the hills amidst forests where monkeys
and squirrels forage. It has been, and still is an important religious site
and has ruins of monasteries, small cave temples, water tanks and stupas
all in a relatively compact area. Back to our same accommodation in Dambulla.
20/7/07 Having satisfied our interest in the history and religion
of the north we headed back towards Kandy and found a lovely guesthouse
in the forest behind the city. We had not realised just how oppressed we
had become in India. We had started to spend more time in our hotel room,
not wanting to venture out due to the noise and constant attention of the
masses of people. It is only now, after a couple of weeks in Sri Lanka, where
we are enjoying more time out and about that we realised the hermits we
were becoming. Spent a couple of hours at a herb and spice garden on the
way to Kandy where a guide explained the many properties of the plants for
medicinal and therapeutic uses. Even received a neck and shoulders massage
using some of their natural products.
21/7/07 Kandy is Sri Lanka's premier tourist town with a lakeside
setting and cool climate, few tourists miss visiting this city. Different
countries seem to have different scams. One that seems prevalent here
it to distract you after a purchase, polite conversation, offer of cup
of tea, while someone else goes to get change. The person returns but instead
of offering the change they hold it and hope you will forget and having
been
distracted will just leave. It is predominantly from hotel staff
but today we had it from a cultural ticket seller. He was also an inveterate
liar, claiming that the evening's cultural performance was a one off rehearsal
for the annual Kandy festival and that dignitaries from Thailand and Japan
would be there to evaluate the performance. Thirty baby elephants were
supposed to be brought in for the event and he and the woman at the batik
shop were performers. His father was the fire walker and fire eater. Of course
none of the above was true, but the cultural show was excellent, different
costume dances, and there was fire walking and fire eating. We brought the
lies to the attention of the cultural officials but they didn't seem surprised,
heard it all before, were not too concerned, tickets had been sold. They
promised to remove the ticket sellers book, but why would they do it?
22/7/07 Took a walk around the lake, strolled past the
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, believed to contain a tooth of Buddha,
snatched from his funeral fire and brought to Sri Lanka and now carries
great symbolic importance. Despite questions over its authenticity, the
Portuguese are said to have destroyed it, but not the original say the Priests,
it has been the target of a truck bomb in 1998, and now all local traffic
is diverted to drive around the lake and visitors are security searched
before
entering the grounds. One could ponder Buddha's thoughts on someone
knocking out his tooth at his funeral and placing such emphasis on it.
We walked the grounds but decided not to enter the temple although thousands
of pilgrims simply dressed in white robes carrying lotus flowers lined
up to be security checked to do so. It rained most of the day
and with overcast conditions we decided to stay in Kandy for the next two
days rather than going higher into the mountains where mist is blocking views.
23/7/07 Whilst walking along the lake shore another man, same "modus
operandi", praying towards the temple near a tree blocking our path, apologised
for inconveniencing us, then went into the same dialogue about a Cultural
Show, this time he was a firewalker teacher, the 30 elephants would be coming,
a once only special show, etc, etc. We walked with him listening and arrived
at a place where tickets are sold. I asked if the ticket seller spoke
english, a quick exchange between them advised me he did but they denied
it. They were both complicit and, snatching their ticket book, we left
saying we were going to the police to report the matter, which we did. People
in societies who don't complain, question or stand up for their rights
get what they deserve, often a corrupt country where few things work. I
used to dislike complaining but we long ago learnt
it is the only way things will change. To accept something that is
wrong is tantamount to condoning it. The police were not pleased to see
us. Moved us through two offices and left us waiting back at the first
room. We requested an officer accompany us back to the ticket seller's
booth but there are more problems in this country than inconvenienced tourists,
the Tamil Tigers are causing difficulties again, and after being there
for 40 minutes we left with an almost new ticket book in our pockets, not
knowing what to do with it.
24/7/07 We had phoned the shipping agent a couple of days ago and
again today to try to find out when the next ship was leaving for the Maldives
to take the motorcycle. This is the cyclone season and Colombo's port
infrastructure can't handle the current capacity. Any shortage creates
high prices. The original date of departure, the 30th, first extended to
the 31st was now out to a likely 2nd of August sailing. Our flight is on
the 1st, needing to book early to get a good discount, we took the risk, and
it should still work. With a weekend in between we need to be back in Colombo
by the 26th for crating and paperwork. Spent the day planning a bit of our
trip to the Pacific countries.
25/7/07 Still in Kandy,
a comfortable city, rain passes through every day but not enough
to be inconvenient. We have been having problems with the motorcycle's
handlebars coming loose over the last couple of years. Hopefully as a
final solution we drilled holes through the risers and bars and pinned
them with drill bits. The handlebars are now non adjustable but hopefully
non moveable.
26/7/07 Back to Colombo, 120km's, heavy traffic almost all the way.
Another photo of 99999.9 on the speedometer, the fifth one, meaning the
motorcycle has covered 500,000 km's. We did a bit of a summary of its mechanical performance during that time as well as
our varied successes and failures at repairs. When leaving Australia the
first time in 1996 we had not even changed the oil, obviously we have learnt
a bit of mechanics along the way, often by immediate necessity, and the
motorcycle has the great ability of throwing new things at us as parts are
still wearing out for the first time. In Colombo we visited GGL Line, the
shipping agent and started the paperwork for exporting the motorcycle by
paying port duties and visiting customs. GGL Line also advised us that there
is no LCL (less than container load) shipments from the Maldives back to
Colombo as there are virtually no exports from the Maldives other than
bulk fish. That could leave the motorcycle stranded there or
us having to pay for a full container!
27/7/07 A smooth and enjoyable day starting at FSL, Freight Systems
Logistics, where the motorcycle's metal crate was being stored. They transported
it for us, free of charge, to ACE Containers stuffing yard, where we dismantled
the motorcycle and had it tied into the crate, taking about two hours.
The people at ACE were enthusiastic about our trip, taking photos and helping
when necessary, even providing drinks. After a customs check it was back
to D-Branch, near the wharf and in behind the tight security of the fringing
port area to get the carnet signed. By 3pm we were at GGL Logistics and
paid just $US 75.00 for the Colombo to Maldives shipping. As we had done
most of the paperwork they generously didn't charge for anything other than
the freight. They also had a reasonable quote of $US 354.00 to ship the motorcycle
from Colombo to Fiji via Singapore but we still needed to somehow get
it back to Colombo from the Maldives first. By the end of the day we were
fairly comfortable of next seeing the motorcycle in the Maldives in about
a week's time.
28/7/07 It is steamy in Colombo,
now and almost always. We ventured out of the YWCA hostel just a
couple of times. A walk around the nearby lake, secured by the military,
few vehicles are allowed in the area meaning many businesses have closed
leaving the place a bit of a ghost town, but nice and quiet for a walk.
The Crescat Boulevard Mall is as modern as any western mall with food court
and upmarket shops. Its supermarket caters for all the ex-pat community,
rich locals and occasional tourists, with everything western. We stocked
up on a few items likely more expensive in the Maldives. The contrast in
prices in some of these developing countries is often extreme. A local tea
in a teashop is 20 cents, a coffee at the mall is 2 dollars.
29/7/07 With the motorcycle gone it was public transport to Negombo,
a seaside holiday place 40km north. Even with light Sunday traffic it took
two hours. Locals were out enjoying the beach, popcorn and ice cream sellers
doing good business. Our comfortable waterfront small hotel room with
balcony overlooking the beach and palm tree garden just $US 9.00, the
last of the cheap destinations for us for a long time.
30-31/7/07 People come to a seaside place to relax, read books, go
for walks on the beach, eat out in restaurants and socialise. That is what
we did for the two days.
1/8/07 Awake at 3.30 am to catch the 7.15 am flight to the Maldives.
Move with us to the Maldives or go to our next visit to Sri Lanka
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
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