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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #31  
Old 9 Dec 2009
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FCO Advice

With regard to the latest post on the change of FCO advice.

I am part of a charity rally. Today we were called to the Foreign Office in London for a meeting with the head of Counter-Terrorism. In no uncertain terms he outlined the fact that the threat level has increased significantly in the region and that ( as we already know)Western tourists were being specifically targeted. Hence the change in the FCO advice.

On the basis of this meeting, ourselves, along with the Plymouth to Banjul/ Timbucktu Rally organisers(also in attendence) were strongly advised to cancel the rallies in light of the increased threat.

We have decided to cancel both rallies as we cannot be seen to be encouraging people to go against FCO advice.

The FCO are issuing an Ministerial statement on the situation tomorrow (something not often done and again reflecting the gravity of the situation)

Of course, anyone is still free to make the decision to ignore the FCO, but having heard what the counter terrorism team were saying, it would certainly make me think twice about returning to a region I know and like very much.

Terrible news for the Mauritanians and in fact the whole region (Mali travel advice was also updated today regarding the increased threat of kidnap, although the general level of advice remains unchanged)

Just thought you would like to know...

Last edited by Chris Scott; 9 Dec 2009 at 23:28. Reason: removed url
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  #32  
Old 10 Dec 2009
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Originally Posted by tourdeforce View Post
With regard to the latest post on the change of FCO advice.

The FCO are issuing an Ministerial statement on the situation tomorrow (something not often done and again reflecting the gravity of the situation)
Does anyone know when and were can we here/read the Ministerial Statement?

thanks
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  #33  
Old 10 Dec 2009
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  #34  
Old 10 Dec 2009
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Rick Travis entered Mauritania a few days ago and has now just sent a SPOT GPS message saying all OK from Mali. I have not yet had an e-mail from him bu I guess he may be tagging onto a convoy but he has crossed Mauritania without problems. This also means that he picked up his visa OK in Rabat last week.
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  #35  
Old 11 Dec 2009
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Interesting news on Rick.
I am also on the above rally and will be going down to casablanca and then trying to ship the car round to Dakar in order to miss out Mauri.... I would really appreciate any update on the mauri borders, or whether the levels of "western" traffic going through mauri has dropped off?
Finally, if we can't ship the car then we'll be looking for a very trustworthy guide to drive the car for us to Dakar... I have no idea whether this is just a pipe dream so would really appreciate peoples comments?
Many thanks
Stephen
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  #36  
Old 11 Dec 2009
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Well the rallies had to be cancelled for obvious reasons.
Why that would keep anyone from driving through on their own I don't understand?
We're passing through around January 12. Going to visit friends in Noakchott and then on to Mali.

Also
Mauritania’s President Vows to Improve Security, MNA Reports - Bloomberg.com
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  #37  
Old 13 Dec 2009
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Many thanks for everybody that’s posted in answer to my original question.

I’ve decided to cancel my West Africa trip in light of the security situation and will instead do a road trip round Morocco and re-park the bike in southern Spain and fly home from there.

There’s a variety of reasons listed below:
  • I’ve been to and ridden in some dubious parts of the world, but never thought the outcome could end in kidnap and beheading (I have a passport from the same country as the poor Edwin Dyer). Other nationalities also run the risk of kidnap, but for whatever reason, most end up getting set free alive. Now having a wife and family also affects my judgement.
  • I try to ride in the daylight, if at all possible: To help avoid dodgy car drivers, pedestrians, animals, potholes, debris on the road that might be less visible at night. The thought of having to be on the lookout for pr*cks with AK47s is too much, day or night
  • The plan for me was to park the bike in Gambia and return later and ride to Timbuktu. That part of West Africa/Sahara also currently enjoys a dubious reputation and I really don’t need the bullsh*t involved in a trip there.
  • FCO advice (no UK issued insurance policy will be valid if the FCO has said don't go)
  • The bike will now likely do a one way trip to eastern Russia in 2011 or 2012

I hope the 3 Spaniards and the Frenchman get set free soon. My thoughts are with them and their friends and families.

If you’re in Morocco over Christmas, look out for the scabbiest of scabby black Honda Transalps. The only definite on the itinerary is a visit to Marrakesh. Other than that, it depends on the weather.

Ride and drive safely,
Chris

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  #38  
Old 13 Dec 2009
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Short question: has any biker ever been kidnapped for ransom in the desert apart from the 2003 event?
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  #39  
Old 13 Dec 2009
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Rick made it safely through Mauri, Mali and is now enjoying a ride through Burkina Faso. It might well be that, as he left the UK before the kidnappings, he is blissfully unaware of what is going on... ignorance being bliss. Looks like he will just about hit his target of being with friends for Christmas in Gabon before continuing down to South Africa in the New Year.
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  #40  
Old 15 Dec 2009
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Originally Posted by Chris Scott View Post
... crime and terrorism or because of difficulty?

Primarily the difficulty IMO.

The kidnappers would have zipped across R2 somewhere around Ben Amira and cut a corner of the PFZ before heading east for north Mali (or so José and I have speculated). But I doubt there will be much added security along R2. Where would they start?

Regarding difficulty - even if you head for Choum and not direct to Atar (as R2 does) on a bike you have to carry a fair amount of fuel through the low dune sections. Sure you can ride the rubble between the rails to avoid the cordons, but there are 2 trains a day and getting up on the tracks can be tricky. It's all so much easier with someone to help or a 4x4 to carry the gear.

Ch
If you want to a void the road from road from Nouadhibou to Nouakchott ride across the railway route to Choum, I did it with another guy about 3weeks ago and enjoyed it.

It’s a mixture of piste and railway and getting up on the tracks isn’t a problem it’s getting off them when the train comes because it ain’t stopping!!! Honestly get well clear, I was way to close for comfort the first time. The guy behind keep a mirror up for look out!! We did it loaded up with our gear riding into a 50-60km head wind and the vis went right down with the sand in the air. Ride the train track at the start to get you in as the first section seemed very sandy but it will get better.

But as Chris says make sure you got enough fuel!!!! We sucked loads but managed to get our hands on some dark government stuff at a village after the first day, also riding the sandy piste will use it up and Choum has good fuel! You’ll hit the sand fields during the last section so we rode the railway (be careful around the dead man stops). Wasn’t too much debris on the line as we expected and our main worry while riding was metal bandit strapping laying around slicing into the tyres. Around the track is loose shale and sand. I found the people very friendly, even the soldiers on road check points, so what if he has a gun in one hand? A big smile and firm hand shack works wanders (I found bikers had much less hassle than people on 4 wheels). We stopped by some huts to take shelter from the wind in our tents the first night but the people living there gave us a hut for the night and even brought us food! 5star in the middle of nowhere, happy days. Took another day to reach Choum and bush camped outside of it. The track to Atar is sound, bit sandy in places. Overall it’s not that difficult if you’re anyway happy getting off the road and the lighter you are the better! (I’ve just posted a package from Gambia to the UK).

As for the advice from the FCO, if I ever listened to them I’d still be holding a virgin passport!

Use common sense and don’t get carried away with the wave of panic you read…

Duck
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  #41  
Old 16 Dec 2009
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I have been 12 months in the planning of a motorcycle trip from Ireland to Gambia...

I aint afraid of kidnapping etc, but have serious concerns about insurance implications if the UK gov has put the area "OOB"

I therefore have just binned my travel arrangements and my 12 month arrangements are now 'down the pan'. ( Wifey is pleased )

I do however, plan to ride to Morocco and explore that area in depth..... BUT, this is better stalled until Spring, I am told....

BS
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  #42  
Old 16 Dec 2009
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RAC travel insurance makes no mention of being void in the event of travelling against FCO recommendations.
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  #43  
Old 16 Dec 2009
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Originally Posted by AberdeenAngus View Post
RAC travel insurance makes no mention of being void in the event of travelling against FCO recommendations.
See page 46 of http://media.rac.co.uk/pdf/rtrtg0415_0909.pdf


Chris
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  #44  
Old 16 Dec 2009
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mauratania stuation

i came up from senegal week before hijack
couple i met in maroc a few weeks ago went thru no convoy no problem to senegal last week they confirmed to me yesterday from zebrabar near st louis only problem i encounted in road thru was boredom and only petrol every ...100 miles

watch out going from nuokchott to kiffa east mauri petrol can be thin on ground at times no problem after turn off road of hope for mali and beyond
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  #45  
Old 16 Dec 2009
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Conspicuous tours and rallies are a different thing but I would not dump a long-planned adventure in West Africa just because part of it is on the FCO blacklist and so some travel insurance is not valid. It's often not valid just for plain motorcycling in Africa and as we know much of the time the road insurance we buy at borders is only a bit of paper. Western Sahara was blacklisted for years during the convoy days not so long ago. That's why it's all an adventure. We are talking about a theoretically tense one-day ride: WS border to NKT here (and then avoiding Timbuktu area - no great loss). Most people tend to shoot through Mori anyway.

Algeria has been blacklisted as long as I've been going there but people on my tours managed to get reasonably priced moto travel insurance and I myself have both had and dealt with moto accidents either without insurance or in a place they could do nothing to help - we all used our common sense and got home fine to ride another day. Shop around - try World Nomads or Europ Assistance). If it's about peace of mind for the family back home I would have thought the Spot bleeper that someone else has mentioned will do the trick.

Ch
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