My riding partner and I recently rode from Cartagena to the border of Ecuador, crossing at the post north of Quito. I forget the name, as I lost my logbook along the road there.
We are two old Americans, riding a BMWR1150GS Adventure and a Kawasaki KLR650. We had nothing but good encounters with everyone we met, including officials, police, and ordinary people. We were objects of great curiosity wherever we went, as we were on bikes they seldom see. People approach and just want to know where you came from and where you are going. They seem to have no ulterior motives, they just are friendly. We treat everyone we meet with the respect they deserve, and that is always paramount.
Cartagena is especially charming, and not to be missed. We came by sailboat from Portobelo, Panama, with an American, Mark Matson. He knows what he is doing, and takes great care with the bikes, both loading and unloading. We had covers, but he insisted we put his tarps over them to protect them from the sea spray.
This voyage of 5 days cost $275 per person, plus @250 per bike. We spent two full days in the San Blas Islands, and I cannot say how pleased we were with the entire trip. The food was excellent, a factor that is not present on all boats, I hear.
BTW, before I forget, DO NOT BOOK A TRIP WITH A CAPTAIN OUT OF PORTOBELO OR COLON NAMED LEONARDO. I am shouting this, because he is known to be a bad guy, and I have several reports about what a shyster he is.
Do not miss this boat trip, coming or going from Cartagena. Mark only makes one trip a month, so contact him to nail down a time and a spot on the boat, as he only takes 8 people, and prefers no more than 2 bikes.
His contact is:
freshaircharters@yahoo.com His phone (cell): 507 6 669-9359 (Panama) or 315 756 2818 (Cartgagena).
We were advised to fly by several people, and I am most happy that we found Mark, mostly through information on HUBB, and through a couple we met in Antigua, Guatemala riding two-up on a KTM 950; Bonnie & Mark (different Mark, of course), from Sun Valley, Idaho, just 80 miles from where I live (Buhl, Idaho).
What you have heard about Colombia is not valid at this time. Things are quiet politically, at least as foreigners are concerned, and this is good. It is a shame that they have the reputation they do not deserve. Colombians are among the most friendly and caring people we have met in CA or SA, and that is saying a lot.
We are presently in Lima, and I recommend this hostel: Hostal El Patio, located in Miraflores at Calle Diez Canseco 341. The cost here is $30/night single; $40 double, and it includes a very nice continental breakfast. It is clean, hot water, color/cable, and Free wireless should you have a laptop.
They speak English, should you Spanish be lacking, and are extremely caring and friendly. There is space for parking a few motorcycles, and they are locked in safely. Ours are currently in one of the coffee rooms!
Miraflores is quite nice, and just a few blocks from the seafront. It is quite touristy, and not the real Lima at all. As a matter of fact, one could think he is in New York when sitting at a busy streetside cafe, sipping good coffee and a delicious pastry.
I am gushing, but I cannot say enough good about our entire trip. For more info and a nearly day-to-day blog, check out my site: 2wheelstoadventure.com
Cheers and Hurrah,
Ron Weinert
72 and pushing 73, but still going strong