A couple of months ago I posted technical stuff about my first months of the bike trip. Shipping, insurance, border crossings, and such see here:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...paraguay-53550

Now a few more things about Patagonia:

1. The Argentina HU Meeting in Viedma early December is well worth going!

2. The ride along the Atlantic Coast is a mixed bag: Long streches of sraight road through boring landscapes are interrupted by spectacular sights. Don't miss out on the parrots and sea lions south of Viedma, camp at Puerto Piramides on Peninsula Valdez (this is where hotel prices start to become rediculously expensive,) for lots of wildlife along the 200km ripio loop around the peninsula; check out the 6000 penguines at Punta Tombo south of Trelew (40km ripio + 140km more if you continue along the coast to Camarones, pavement again after that), find the free (!) sea lion colony 3km south of Caleta Olivia, and NOTHING WILL PREPARE YOU FOR THE GALE FORCE WINDS between Viedma and Ushuaia! Expect your milage dropping 1/3, so top up your tank at EVERY petrol station you see. Logistigs is not one of the stong poinst here, stations are frequently out of gas, even if the truck drivers are not on strike. There are some pieces of the route where there is no station for 200km. Great trip, though. I'd do it again.

3. The ferry along Routa 3 across to Tierra del Fuego goes every hour, sometimes even every 1/2 hour and it was FREE! Just 1/2 hour to cross the Magellan Strait at the Angostura, the narrow point.
The ferry from Provenir to Punta Arenas leaves at 19h on weekends and at 14h on weekdays. No ferry on Monday. Cost 5100 Chilean Pesos per person and 9300 Pesos per motorbike. They accept Arg. Pesos too, but at a bad exchange rate. There is one ATM in Provenir, but my Visa card did not work there.

4. Border crossings hassle free, but expect long waiting times if a couple of buses have arrived just before you. And don't have any unpackaged food in your luggage. There are several checks on the road and at the borders. They need to prevent spread of fruit flies and diseases.

5. Roads on Tierra del Fuego: Agentinian side all paved, Chilean side all Ripio.

6. While my first set of tires lasted 19000km (Michelin Anakee 2), the rear tire (Continental Trail Attack) was spent after only 8500km. I saw the steel wires showing in Rio Grande (photo). No tires available on Tierra del Fuego, neither in Rio Grande nor in Ushuaia, 220km south (photo). In Ushuaia I heard that there are tires to be had in Punta Arenas, 440km away. To cut a long story short, I didn't make it. 60km before the ferry at Provenir I had a flat (photo). Found a road crew, loaded the bike on their truck (photo) and was dropped off at the ferry. The Chileans refused to take any money I offered for their assistance. Great guys!

In Punta Arenas are two bike shops: I heard of a Honda shop called Motescar owned by Gonzalo Yutronic, Street Carrera 666, +56-221245, mobile +56-998883349; but I contacted

Alejandro Lago who works with Motoaventura (they are based in Osorno).
I called him and he met me at the ferry with his pick-up truck and trailer (photo 1 2 3 4). He has a lot of used tires in his well-equipped work shop. New tires he can get from Santiago in a day or two. He put on a used Pirelli and within an hour after my arrival in Punta Arenas the bike was good to go again (photo)! Excellent job and it cost me just 35000 Chilean Pesos, (€ 56,-), tire, work and towing from the port. Thanks Alejandro!!!

Alejandro Lago
Street Ona 0471
Punta Arenas
S 53°08.792'
W 70°53.816'
mobile +56-96401233
phone +56-61212737
email: alelago[at]123.cl

I hope this information will help someone.

Check out my photos: 2010f_Patagonia pictures by frankinasia - Photobucket

To be continued...

__________________
“It’s just a walk in the park!”
“You mean people are going to mug us and steal all our money and kick us viciously in the ribs?” Terry Prachett

Good information....but that ferry is not free. You just neglected to pay. You are supposed to enter the downstairs cabin and line up for the pursar's window where you buy a ticket. Quite a few riders don't....but that's for their conscience, not mine.

You did well with the tire. I tried to buy tires in various remote places in Chile just after the earthquake but couldn't find my size new or used, and the usual overnight shipments from Santiago had been suspended with the airport closure. All normal cautions apply, including don't try to cut it too close, since delivery systems (gas, parts, infrastructure, machines) break down a lot.

Enjoy your trip north! It's a lot more scenic than Ruta 3.

Mark

mark

Mark, I did ask one of the sailors who sent me into the ticket office. When I asked the officer there how much it is he just waved me out the door - so my conscience is clean ;-))

__________________
“It’s just a walk in the park!”
“You mean people are going to mug us and steal all our money and kick us viciously in the ribs?” Terry Prachett

Heh heh. Good deal: a free ferry and a free conscience in one fell swoop! Wonder if it's changed, or you hit the holiday spirit, or what.

We got on for free too (and did try to pay). They made us wait til the ferry was crammed then found a corner for us at the back - maybe it's a new policy. It's cheap as chips anyway, so who cares.

Damn the three of us had to pay, crossing a few days ago on the 30th of December... and there was even an Argentinian biker along... But it was indeed not that expensive (40 pesos I believe)