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West and South Asia From Turkey to Iran, Iraq, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Ladakh and Bangladesh
Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



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  #1  
Old 7 Sep 2010
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Noticing concerns of the members I called friends in Sost and Passu a few days back and confirmed my information first hand. The road to Pakistan from China is open but challenging. Let me enumerate the challenges,
1. A bridge at Khyber is damaged but motorbikes can cross it because the waterlevels have dropped. It can also be crossed in tractor trollies for a little payment.
2. Atabad lake has to be crossed in a boat.
3. Babusar route should be taken from Chillas as KKH is closed at Dubair.

Then a few suggestions,
1. One TV channell is announcing opening of the KKH. In third world countries official information is unreliable so I dont trust it. The most credible info is word of mouth or the bus stations which ply the route regularly.
2. KKH is doable but not easy. Not very difficult either and certainly worth it.
3. Help is available everywhere for a little payment.
Cheers
Omar
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  #2  
Old 8 Sep 2010
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Now it is confirmed that complete KKH is open for light traffic as they have erected a temporary bridge at Dubair. Still the road is in bad shape as it is being upgraded from Khanjerab till Raikot bridge by the Chinese and the portion from Chillas till Battgram is in shambles due to neglect.
Cheers
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  #3  
Old 12 Sep 2010
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hi there,
just arrived today in islamabad from china. KKH is totally open even the dubar section after chilas, but we did the most challenging babusar pass route as for mud, sand, landslides exc. we went through by hands through the fallen bridge south of sost (sept. 4th) on a wooden enlarged catwalk, made by local labours; 10,000 rps for 7 bikes. they are starting to build a temporary bridge. then the lake; the shore is few kms south of passu; we rented two boats for 20,000rps, puls 3,000 rps to download the bikes at south shore, north of karimabad. after gilgit a landslide has forced us to get in deal with some local porters to cross the bike by hands through a narrow sharp rocky footpath (1,500 rps sept. 9th). now the road it should to been cleared.

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  #4  
Old 14 May 2013
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Kkh 2013
We crossed Khunjerab Pass from Pakistan to China 05.05.2013. According to Pakistani customs log book we were the second ones this year.

No need for N.O.C in the KKH, but police will escort you from Thakot to Dasu. The road in this leg is quite rough too. The road from Dasu to Raikot Bridge is pretty good, after the bridge there are long and heavy road works but mostly brand new tarmac.

We paid 800 rupees for two passengers and one bike to cross Attabad Lake. Loading and unloading are still risky businesses...

After Sost we had to pay 800 rupees each to enter the Khunjerab National Park. The fee is possible to pay in USD or Yuan too. There was lots of snow in Khunjerab Pass and the road was icy with fresh snow... But very beautiful.

Pakistani customs and Chinese border guards want to open and check all your luggage, but we rode alone all the way to Tashkurgan, where we met our guide in the customs house. There was a small snowstorm before Tashgurgan and cold snowy mountains between Tashgurgan and Kashgar.

My English is so limited that I´m not going to tell more about grandness and beauty of the sceneries etc. Amazing road that you have to experience yourself!
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  #5  
Old 14 May 2013
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That sounds awesome Rami
we cant wait....
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  #6  
Old 14 May 2013
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A forty member group of MAP (Motorcyclists Assoc of Pakistan) is going on the KKH on 29th June and another a week earlier. I myself will be going in early August to visit the adjoining valleys of Deosai, Shamshal and Minapin.

I wish Rami had been to these valleys too. They are out of this world.

Cheers
Omar
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  #7  
Old 15 May 2013
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Oh, almost forgot... The police at the southern end of Attabad lake wants a paper, where you announce that you are crossing the lake in your own responsibility.

I guess hotels in Karimabad have those papers, we got the information and our copies from Hunza Embassy hotel.

Omie: Unfortunately the time was limited... Chinese permits aren´t flexible
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  #8  
Old 18 May 2013
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I do find it such a shame that so many bikers just blast up the KKH and straight through to China without spending anytime actually exploring NW Pakistan. They really have no idea what they are missing. We spent 6 weeks touring NWFP last year on a Bullet and I would recommend it to anyone !
UB.
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  #9  
Old 18 May 2013
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Best kept secrert
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uselessbaba View Post
I do find it such a shame that so many bikers just blast up the KKH and straight through to China without spending anytime actually exploring NW Pakistan. They really have no idea what they are missing. We spent 6 weeks touring NWFP last year on a Bullet and I would recommend it to anyone !
UB.


No wonder I consider it the worlds best kept secret. Cant have enough of
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  #10  
Old 18 May 2013
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Hello,

we just come back from South Africa and Namibia.In September we go from Germany to Nepal and we want to visit NW Pakistan.But October and November it is mabye to cold there?What is the best time to go ?

Regards

Mike
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  #11  
Old 19 May 2013
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Hi Rami,

Where did u cross the Chinese boarder. Are you allowed to ride in China as a individual traveller?

Thanks,
Ranjan
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  #12  
Old 19 May 2013
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we will be travelling up the KKH in about 3 weeks time , cant wait

Brisbane2Bristol | On our great adventure
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  #13  
Old 20 May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike K. View Post
Hello,

we just come back from South Africa and Namibia.In September we go from Germany to Nepal and we want to visit NW Pakistan.But October and November it is mabye to cold there?What is the best time to go ?

Regards

Mike
In late November it starts getting too cold. Early October should be fine although adjacent high valleys lose their short spring in early September.

Cheers
Omar
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  #14  
Old 25 May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genki View Post
Hi Rami,

Where did u cross the Chinese boarder. Are you allowed to ride in China as a individual traveller?

Thanks,
Ranjan
We crossed Khunjerab Pass, the only border post between Pakistan and China, and then Torugat Pass to Kyrgyztan.

It´s not possible for foreigners to drive their own vehicles without an escort in China.
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  #15  
Old 23 Jun 2013
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Not such good news from the KKH Gilgit area:
BBC News - Nine tourists killed at north Pakistan mountain camp

... the Pakistani Taliban has told the BBC it was responsible... The group said it would continue to target foreigners.

The first such attack up in usually peaceful and safe NE Pakistan, afaik. And its not like there can be that many tourists up there.

I wonder if the police escorts down on the lowlands might now spread up to the KKH too.

More here also: http://pamirtimes.net + latest on the lake.

And to add your PoV on the background to the event, please go here.

Ch
Last edited by Chris Scott; 26 Jun 2013 at 15:41.
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