Originally Posted by JulianVoelcker

Congratulations Dave on the purchase. The Colorados/Prados are great little trucks.

As you say the chances are you have a LSD at the back - if you can jack up one rear wheel with the transfer case in Neutral, if there is an LSD you should struggle to turn the lift wheel by hand (actually I doubt you will be able to turn it).

If it turns but a little stiffly then it will be an open diff.

If you have the LSD it is essential that you use proper LSD oil in it, they don't last long with straight diff oil.

Other things to look out for...
1. The engines are very prone to overheating. Check the rad, hoses and water pump for leaks or other problems and also check the coolant - if it isn't nice clear red colour, use a chemical flush, following instructions to a "T" and then thoroughly flush before filling up with Toyota Red Coolant.

2. ON standard suspension they are prone to rusting around the rear axle and around the top of the fuel tank - if these areas are relatively ok, steam clean and treat with rust treatment, otherwise if rusty get it checked by a professional mechanic - we have come across rusty diffs leaking and suspension mounting brackets rusting - particularly the top link ones because the drain holes get blocked and so they fill up with salty road water - we always enlarge the drain holes to avoid the problem.

3. You can sometimes get starting/running problems - this is usually down to the fuel pipes on the top of the fuel tank (under the boot) rusting and leaking - the tell tale is the top of the tank being very damp. The only solution is to drop the tank and replace the fuel pick-up in the tank and then rust treat.

4. Depending on where you are going it is worth getting a front bash plate.

5. If an auto, make sure it has a good supply of fresh oil - this is often left out of services.

That covers most things, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to post here.

Originally Posted by Walkabout

I have a lot of confidence in the vehicle which has a good service record, is waxoiled beneath and I got it from a dealer with a 3 month warranty and a brand new MOT with no advisories - that gives me a bit of time for any glitches to show up.

Originally Posted by Walkabout

One thing regarding the radiator: I gather that the rad can fail and cause contamination of the auto gear box oil.
What say you about this?

Originally Posted by JulianVoelcker

Not to rain on your parade, but waxoil is often used to cover up rust problems, most warranties tend to be worthless unless the car actually stops dead (although manufacturers dealer warranties tend to be better) and even wrecks can pass an MOT.

On the warranty front the first 80 series I bought had a gearbox problem that had been masked by a fresh oil change, it got worse and within warranty period I asked to get them to fix it and it turned out that the warranty only covered the repairs if the vehicle was dead in the road - a progressive slipping wasn't sufficient to justify a claim!

My advise is always to try several examples of the model you are looking to buy before you get your money out of the bank. That way you should have a better feel for the vehicle when you do your final test drive.



Yes it can happen when the rad gets weakened through rot usually from not using proper coolant. If you have any doubts about the rad swap it out ideally with a factory one - you can never be sure with cheap one's off ebay!

Originally Posted by twenty4seven

Well done on your purchase Dave, all you need to buy is a GPS now

Originally Posted by Walkabout

Actually, it has one of those compass attachments on the dash (with another dial that shows the angle of lean and something else I haven't figured yet).
So, I can go back to basic compass and map, the nav method I was brought up with and know best

Originally Posted by twenty4seven

I changed my radiator Dave, the consequences of a failed radiator could cost you an auto gear box, I also used a genuine one as nearly all pattern Toyota radiators nowadays are rubbish.

If you don't chance your radiator at least consider removing it when you change your coolant (It's easy, bolts are undone through the grill) as all sorts of muck gets trapped between the rad and the air-con condenser and you just cannot clean it within the car. As Julian says keeping the cooling system in tip to condition on the model is important.

Originally Posted by JulianVoelcker

- if you can jack up one rear wheel with the transfer case in Neutral, if there is an LSD you should struggle to turn the lift wheel by hand (actually I doubt you will be able to turn it).

That covers most things, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to post here.

Originally Posted by JulianVoelcker

Unfortunately there aren't any tell tales on the rad failure, but the key would be to keep to Toyota coolant which contains rust/rot inhibitors and also avoid cheap replacement rads.

Manual wise, your best bet is to try to track down a Haynes manual for the Prado in Aus (ISBN 9781563928215) or see if you can download some of the factory manuals.

Yes, you could fit a separate oil cooler in front of the rad/aircon core as opposed to using the bottom of the rad - even if using the one in the rad it's worth adding an extra one if you are planning on a lot of sand/mud work or a lot of towing, all of which can lead to the gearbox over heating.

Originally Posted by tacr2man

Re extra trans cooler ,very good advice , plumb in as supplementary to one in rad , if you can find place other than in front of rad & condenser even better as you are not then passing heated air back into cooling flow .

Originally Posted by uk_vette

.
.
.
NO! NO! NO!

Not to be plumbed in "in line" with the one in the rad.
The one in the rad is the one that will fail.
You need to totally not use that one built into the bottom of the rad.
Totally disconnect the bottom rad auto box cooler, and only use the new cooler that you have bought.

vette