YES! And if using a stainless re-usable, make sure to clean it really well. PLAN your oil/filter changes so you have somewhere proper to work. Gasoline is fine as flush/cleaner medium ... just do it OUTSIDE!

Scott's claim their filter is BETTER than stock paper element. I DOUBT THIS ... but I think it's "good enough" in any case, lots of riders have used them for ages.

Be very careful with seat choice. Seat needs to be WIDER than standard, use quality foam, should be FIRM not soft. But WIDTH is really the key. Think "Horse Saddle".

The electrical conversion will be the toughest thing to get right. HID use only about 35W. You'll need to tie into charging system to keep batt. UP and add fuse protection and find suitable place to mount battery. See Baja Designs for ideas and DIY solutions ... or check out the XR400 forums on Thumper Talk or elsewhere.

Good luck!

Well based on your reply I am going to absolutely take the stainless filter idea seriously. If I can clean it with a little cup of petrol, that does seem realistic.

I've never been precious about seats, quite like the thought of being more comfortable but is it that much worse than a stock DRZ400E seat? Never found that to be a problem on long trips.

Using a a 200w stator, do you think I could get away with my requirements with just a capacitor to smooth out the current rather than a battery? Looked at the LI batteries and even they are about 9-10KG which is an enormous chunk of weight.

The XR seat is probably better ... but no good for me on truly long rides.
You'll need to do further research on batteries and setting up a batt on the XR400. But you're WAY OFF on LI specs:
LFX14A2-BS12 - Shorai Lithium Batteries
Note Weight! Now ... note size! compared to normal battery.

Yes, you could get away with no battery ... but would be nice to run heated grips, super bright lights and such. But dig into it ... see what best course of action is!

Holyyyyyyy frigg, that's so light, would almost be rude not to chuck it in there. No idea what LI battery I was looking at but it must have been a beast! Cheers! For ultra technical electrical headaches I'll probably take it elsewhere, the 'Which Bike?' forum is surely not the place. If someone reading this who has similar plans for an XR wants to combine brains just give me a shout. Thanks so much for everyone's help so far!!

Hi Cwac -

I still have my XR400R that I bought new in 2003, and after 48,000 miles on it, hopefully I can give you some pointers...

As you may (or may not) be aware, there are two version of the XR400 available in the UK - the 'Euro' version that came with a larger glass headlight with hi/low beam, speedo, and a combined AC/DC electrics (AC for the headlight, DC for the brake light and indicators) - although as other have pointed out, there was no battery on this bike, just a regulator/rectifier that provided DC once the engine was running.

The other kind was the 'Enduro' version (effectively the US model) that only had a smaller single beam headlight and a tail light - although this could be wired to provide a brake light too (using a hydraulic brake light switch on one or both of the master cylinders) as it has the same tail lamp unit & bulb... This bike was AC only, although again it was also easy enough to fit a regulator/rectifier and a capacitor to provide DC when the engine was running (to power a GPS etc. and smooth out the feed to the lights).

I bought the Enduro model, and did those mods - hydraulic switches for front and rear brakes, and a small reg/reg from Electrix with a capacitor to power my GPS, keeping things pretty much as simple as possible electrically, which is something I would recommend if you are prepping this bike for a trip...

As you've ascertained, the XR400 is about as strong and simple a bike as you can get, and I would recommend you try and keep it that way - especially electrically, since traditionally it is electrical add-ons that end up causing the most grief on a travel bike.

Personally I wouldn't bother with an HID conversion - it's unnecessarily complex and bulky, and I don't imagine you'll be doing all that much night riding anyway (after all, it's not really recommended, especially in countries where animals roam free). Instead I would fit a pair of LED lights - for example, the Vision-X Solstice lamps I have on my bike now only draw 10w each, and provide 900 lumens each, with a flood (for low) and spot (for high) beam.



Being just 2" square, they also fit inside the OEM headlight mask (the smaller Enduro version) really neatly, and I used the original plastic lens as a stone guard.

Using a pair of these (or similar) immediately saves you 15w of stator power over the standard 35w headlight, even on full beam - and if you also replace the brake/tail-light bulb with a LED version you'll save even more, which means that you won't even need to change/rewind the stator if all you need to run is a GPS and a 5w charging socket for a phone etc.

If you do want a bit of battery power (to keep the lights on, or the phone charging when the engine isn't running) then I can recommend the small battery that Baja Designs make:



It's as if it was made specifically for the recess in the top of the XR400 air-box!

I've fitted this battery as part of my most recent modifications, so I can still run my rally navigation gear without the engine on.

You basically wire it in instead of the capacitor, but be aware you'll need to include an in-line diode to stop any back-flow (discharging) back into the stator, and of course a switch between the battery and the rest of the wiring loom to turn the lights etc. on and off.

This is all straight forward to do, with the minimum additional wiring, which I'd suggest is the key to reducing potential issues once on your trip.

As for oil changes - I typically change mine around 1500 miles (2500kms) at trail-riding pace, and change the filters each time. The Hi-flo ones are fine.

As others have suggested, keep a daily eye on your oil level - especially if you've bee running at high speeds for long periods. My bike did eventually start to use oil after about 35,000 miles... and I had the engine rebuilt earlier this year with a new piston and rings, and the valves reseated and new seals, and it's like new again.

The XR is a keeper ;o)

Hope that helps...

Jenny xx

Wow thank you! Very useful info, seems like the Euro model would be the least hassle, and maybe as you say I should keep my amateur electrical meddling to a minimum. I could just make sure the current loom is solid with good waterproofed crimps and connectors, throw on some indicators, swap to LEDs, add a 12v socket and leave it at that. Glad to hear about a 400R with that sort of mileage on it.

Also happy to read that the top end refresh made a big difference. Obviously I’ll be buying the cleanest bike I can find but I’ve been considering not worrying too much about mileage within reason and doing a rebuild as a matter of course before the trip regardless of anything. Both as practice with carrying out bigger jobs on the bike myself and for the peace of mind that the motor is in good shape when I leave.

Any advice on upgrading suspension? Would you say the stock equipment is adequate for a 95-100kg kitted up rider and a fairly lightweight luggage setup? I’m not going to be riding flat out but I’ll occasionally want to make progress on dirt.

Thanks!!

Hi Cwac - yes, a Euro model (most likely the one you'd find in the UK anyway, as there weren't many US versions sold here) is the most stright-forward option, as all the wiring is in place - including for indicators I believe. Swap out as many bulbs as you can for LEDs (to save power draw) and fit a 12v socket to the rectified side of the stator output* for your GPS, and you'd be good to go - that is how I ran my bike for years before ultimately fitting the battery.

*If you are not running a battery, then make sure there is some sort of capacitor on the output side of the reg/reg, to smooth out the current flow and provide a buffer - as GPS and LEDs can be sensitive to current fluctuations.

As for the suspension - as you are probably aware, the XR was originally designed as a competition enduro bike (before the world went all 21st century with water cooling, alloy frames and USD forks!), and the XR forks in general (on the 400 and particularly the 46mm version on the XR650R) are renowned as some of the plushest conventional forks available - there really isn't anything you need to change suspension wise on the XR400 for travel and overland duty.

Fresh oil and fork seals is the only prep you might need to consider, while at the rear as long as the shock isn't leaking, it will be more than adequate.

If you've not seen it yet, you might want to check out Austin Vince's latest film: Mondo Sahara. They used XR400s to travel into the Sahara and back, and they were nigh-on unbreakable (well, apart from Austin's predicament, but then I understand he bought a bit of a nail at the last minute)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz6CmOpHG40

Good luck hunting for a nice clean example to prep, and I'm sure you will have a lot of fun on it!

Jx

I'm sure those LED lamps work good but a standard HID kit from DDM Tuning
is cheap (about $25 USD) very compact and puts out 3400 lumens. Super easy install. (I've installed three of these kits on various bikes)

Fantastic performance, 3 times brighter than my standard 55W H-4 bulb. Life time warranty. Plug and Play on most bikes and very easy to swap back to standard H-4 bulb if needed. Not bulky, Ballast and Ignitor can go nearly anywhere.
Check it out:
DDM Tuning: HID and LED Lighting

My XR400 (1997 model) had Baja Designs street legal kit installed before I bought it 2nd hand. Used the same Ni-Cad battery 5 pack as shown above. It worked well but Ni-Cads are a bit expensive and DO NOT last forever.

There are very small Lith Iron batteries out there, prices are coming down fast.
If you can fit it, could be OK!

But space is tight on the XR, so the Ni-Cad Baja Designs 5 pack is still a good option ... but AH output is not much and will discharge fairly quickly if not being charged by your Stator. No real reserve.

Overall the XR400 is a great bike. As J-mo says, suspension is pretty good. But since it's a "plush" enduro style bike, you may have TOO MUCH sag on rear shock once loaded. Bike was spec'd for a 140 lb. rider. (plus minus a few kgs.)

Check this out, I'm betting fitting a slightly stiffer shock spring will be required to keep the bike riding HIGH in the travel when loaded. The forks are fine. Leave fork seals alone if not leaking but always carry a spare set with you.
Fresh fork oil, cleaning as part of prep!

The XR has a TON of potential if set up right. I once rode a fully tricked out XR400 with a 440 kit and full Ohlins front and rear. I hopped off my fairly standard XR400 and onto the "trick" XR ... my bike felt like a Donkey Cart by comparison!

Especially the suspension! You could blast straight into a rock field and not even notice! Bike tracked dead straight ... and a TON more power as well. Sadly, that kitted 440 motor blew up after one race season ... so I would stay with standard motor.

Doing a top end rebuild is a good idea IMO. Use genuine HONDA parts and make sure the Mech knows his onions. So many screw up these simple rebuilds. Get someone really good and careful!

very interesting post !
I had seen also a XR with the team leader ...
Can you give me your advice MDog : matching the XR and the DRZ/S from two points
- suspensions
- servicing : frequency and easyness
in stock conditions
thanks anyway

I used both my XR400 and DRZ400E mostly for trail riding. The E is better Off Road than the road legal S model, but the S model will make a better travel bike, IMHO.

The most obvious advantage of the DRZ400S (or E) over the XR400 is the electric start. For trail riding in technical woods here in Nor Cal, the elec. start was nice to have when stuck on a hill or in a rut.

I took my XR and DRZ-E to Baja. We rode 1400 miles, (700 off road, 700 On road) I prefer the XR400 on highway. But Off road the DRZ400E is better everywhere if you compare Standard Bike to Standard Bike. Of course, both bikes are better with the correct modifications. Remember, the DRZ400E is a VERY different bike from the DRZ400S. (E not road legal in USA)

The S model I've ridden but not owned. Several friends owned them and I made several LONG Baja and other long rides with friends riding the S model. It's a great bike but as I said, the E model is better off road, the S model better ON paved roads.

The S model has a "real" charging" system and can carry some luggage with an actual rear sub frame the E does not have.
These things also put the DRZ400S at an advantage over the XR400.

But the XR is a simpler bike, no radiator or water pump or hoses to worry about breaking in a crash. If you have to kick start the XR400 20 times a day, it can become tiresome. But for travel, you should not have to kick over too many times ... and if you know "the way", it's not hard to start unless it's been laying on it's side after a fall.

Both are a bit heavy and cumbersome in technical conditions ... after I sold my DRZ400E, I bought a WR250F for off road. (not road legal in USA). Light weight and Fun. Much better!

But in Baja when riding 250 kms. in a day, I prefer the XR or DRZ over WR250F.

Either DRZ or XR will make a good travel bike ... but IMO, if I had to choose, I'd pick the DRZ400S over the XR400. But not much in it, both are great bikes and both can be made into very good travel bikes ... almost as good as my DR650! (a GREAT travel bike!)


My favorite XR! ... XR250

DRZ400S in Baja ... nearly all standard bike. 2000 miles on this trip, mostly off road.

Thank for the very clear answer .
The "E" in not street legal in France either, but some had been registered under the name of " RSR" . Very complicated ! and there also "false " E made with parts of S and rough job !!!
I was thinking the same thing about the starter, being able to make the difference with my old XT mchappy: and some hot days ; no way to start iti after a fall .

I will say if you make a trip more than one time servicing or two, it is better to take and "old style " bike like a dr, xr, Xt or whatever .
I have already another bike : B3 MV( a real road bike but exclusive ) so no way to take a pegaso more
will be nice for long roads ! and engine is quite good too
this baja must be really nice to ride .

If you will be carrying luggage you should consider strengthening the subframe. Especially if you will be doing offroad a lot. The subframe is not designed for heavy luggage and is prone to braking. I did "triangulate" my '99 XR4's subframe with some lightweight aluminum profiles. Prior to that I had to repair my subframe two times. But I do not overland my bike, it is a dual sport bike and gets ridden quite hard off road with some luggage.

If you go for the XR4, keep a close eye on the oil level. High-ish rpm runs on the blacktop are fine, but the bike can burn quite a lot of oil.

The air-hawk seat pillow is just great. But I would not want to spend 10 hours on my XR4, it is not that comfortable, air-hawk or not. The XR4 is a dirtbike, tall, lightweight, thin. Not really comfortable for long days in the saddle.

Reliability and ease of maintenance is great. I have 30-40K km on my bike and it has not had a easy life. It has proven extremely reliable. The bike is very simple, repairs are easy.

The breaks are fine, the stock headlight is not. I have the EURO model so I have both AC and DC. I run a extra 30W LED light from the DC circuit on my XR4. I did have to change the rear bulb to led for that to work, and do something more, don't remember now. But I can find out if that helps.

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Yamaha XT600E '01, Honda XR400 '03, Yamaha XT550 '83

I just bought a bike!!

A nice '98 XR600R with 2,600 miles on it came up about 30 minutes drive from my house. It has the original Honda handlebars & grips, even has the original front tyre on it from new. It has a headlight taken from an XR250 Baja fitted by the guy I bought it from, who gave me the original headlight along with the immaculate original tubular sump guard which he replaced with a proper one. The bike runs beautifully, engine is quiet, nice crackle from the standard exhaust without the baffle, fueling is crisp and the gearbox precise.

Just rode it home in the pitch darkness and driving rain. The lights are actually very good, left for dipped, right for main beam. Even managed to start it first time when I stopped for fuel! The seat is crazily comfy, I might throw a sheepy on there but it's like a sofa compared to the DRZ. I haven't given her a name yet, but behold my new (to me) machine!





Only mods I can think of doing are maybe some of those Gold Emulator cartridges for the forks, risers & Renthal bars, Acerbis 22L tank and 12v aux power supply.

Might also throw on a fresh set of tyres for good measure because 18 year old stock rubber didn't fill me with confidence through slick roundabouts and standing water if I'm being completely open.

Wowzers, what a beaut! I think you got yersef a Virgin there mate, good Score! (original front tire??)

If carrying luggage I do agree with suggestion to strengthen the sub frame ... but don't go crazy, find a really good fabricator who knows the meaning of conservative improvement.

Also agree about oil use ... every XR/XL Honda I've owned (going back a LONG TIME) has used oil when run at high-ish RPM. XL600, XR600, XR400, XR650L, and my fav ... XR250. ALL used some oil run fast on highway. But just cruising and medium to light off road it won't use much at all.

The XR600 is a great bike. Use the best synthetic oil you can afford, change out when you can .... and RIDE RIDE RIDE!

Its a beauty you got there Cwac!

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In the end everything will be fine. If its not fine its not the end....