I require a rugged full length bash plate for a 2002 XT600E - the standard 'bars' are already looking 2nd hand...

Can anyone advise where to obtain one - preferably in the UK

Thanks
Bish

Hi Bish,

A company called CRD make them. Ive used one before, never had any problems with it. Try the link below

http://www.crd-international.com/mot...e=2002&view=56

I cut down and bolted an army ammo 7.62mm link box on the front to hold all my tools.

Hope this helps

Ian

I picked up one of the OEM aluminum (snow shovel type) off a 80's series for my XT600E, took a little bit of fab work as the wrecker ripped the mounts off when he removed it, bit the mounts appear to be in the same locations as the "bar type" protector.

I don't think there's any difference in the frames, but I'm not the expert here.

Perhaps if you can get a wrecker to let you hold it up to your bike, or pull the bar type off and carry it to the wreckers to compare.


good luck

__________________

David Lambeth does a wonderfully converted CRD bash plate. Welds are lovely and everything lines up beautifully. £100

You have to tap out you mounting holes to M8 though which is dead easy.

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

Perfect! Just what I was looking for. This site is a wonderfull place with lots of information!

I can't find many bash plates for my XT600E 2001 model. I did find one Touratech model:
http://www.touratech.com/shops/001/p...183503653367a9

And now I am in doubt ...

The CRD is a very nice one. They both look much alike. But the CRD looks rounder.

Amazing - I started this thread in 2002 and now it's back!

I can definitely recommend the CRD - my bike gets trail riding, trial and Enduro abuse rather than overlanding and has taken loads of big impacts (Cornwall is full of granite & slate) - nearly 20,000k of this use and it's still going strong. The David Lambeth supplied one with oversize bolts is the one to go for - although to be honest you could buy a stock CRD one and buy oversize (14mm) bolts and tap the threads yourself.

David Lambeth still makes them... I think they are modified CRD plates. I just bought one from him and it looks nice. Maybe he could make them a little bit wider, but maybe I am paranoic (I broke my engine casing this spring )

DAVID LAMBETH RALLY & OVERLAND

The TT one looks even better, but it's also more expensive. I got mine for 100 pounds. There is no need to drill any extra holes in the frame.

However, the bashplate won't fit with the Hepco and Becker crashbars for the XT 600, so keep this in mind!

Actually, the crashbars don't fit well with the Acerbis 28L tank also.


Take care,
Adrian

Same bike, same year, same accessory, so will post some questions here -

Plan to make it in DIY ways - starting from the cardboard template, adding light styling at the end.

first and maybe the most important question - what is the best material from the point of view elasticity/availability/price? - I think it's an aluminum, right?
what is minimal / optimal thickness?

Just get hold of an original XT one. Matches up bolt wise but you will need to make a little bracket for the frame downtube mount. And, ideally you will need a hyraulic press to squeeze out an indent underneath which then allows the plate to get closer to the cases. The material is surprisingly tough. And it looks a million times better than the CRD of old one.

Nice way, thanks )
Could anyone suggest a thickness?

Get a second hand CRD they are rock solid plate....





Light and tough...!

__________________
3mountainsadventure

well, after several months and ~12k kms of mixed riding, i suppose that break-in period for my custom bashplate is well behind and sharing some infos and thoughts is not early.
unfortunately, pictures do not provide enough coverage of the whole process; also, soon after installing a bashplate decided to attach a tool roll holder to it, manufacture of which happened to be quite a headache and without the mood of shooting : )

it's the way it begun in reality -


decided to use 4mm aluminum.


used angle grinder to cut that shape. also, with angle grinder made about 1mm depth grooves on the inside surface, where bends must had been. bent it with jaw vice and hands, sometimes with rubber hammer, every plane all the way to its location, to eliminate any tension on welds.
welding was only thing here done by other set of hands.

obviously, like engine, it's not symmetrical at all.
later, after drilling and cutting vent perforations i'd glue 3mm rubber sheets mostly on the whole inside surface.


all the edges were filled, some from inside, some from outside.


since factory protector nicely repeats engine curvature, now "average" ground clearance is somehow lowered, but lowest part of the frame still is kickstand "positioner" (that small triangular thing which limits kickstand going front when on the ground).
with bashplate only bike gained extra ~1.2 kg (including all rubbers and mounts).


on the back two existed m6 holes were used. on the front i've somehow repeated the shape of engine mounting bracket, using same 4mm aluminum. it's yellow part, holding bashplate with 4 m6 bolts stretched front (like studs). this yellow bracket is attached using existed two m6 holes for factory protector (lower) and one m10 engine mounting bolt (upper, 10mm longer than original).


every contact to the frame or engine is mediated by foamy, but not too soft rubber.


tool roll holder was made bit later with 3mm aluminum, attached to bashplate and frame, holding corrugated sewer pipe
as it appeared, blue rods are unnecessary over-do, but at least they do some air-cooling


since then, bike painlessly survived few tip-overs on the both sides and >20 reasonable rock hurlings from the front wheel. before getting accustomed, that new sound of rocks hitting on bashplate threatened me in the ways that used to stop and check if everything was ok with the engine : )
another slight difficulty is that now during oil change have to use two small plastic channels to move used oil outside of the plate and tool holder.
and one thing i would improve is side coverage, especially on alternator side. despite as it appears both flanks keep engine sides safe, just having that feeling that 1-2 cm more would be better.
otherwise, very

proper bike! nice job on the guard, you can always weld on those extra cm in the alternator side....


The only thing that puzzles me is how that GIVI top cases resist off road.... i have seen the the mounting system crack even in street use!

yes, right point..
it's very similar to givi cases, branded as "kappa". quality is really good and also i've glued some rubbers on the sides (yellow), but main factors are below -
reinforced rear subframe as well as mounting rack.
also, bottom mount of the case (plastic one) is not directly connected to the rack, but sits on ~15mm soft rubber and bolts also push against rubbers from below. hard to explain better in text, maybe it worth couple photos..
anyways, result is effect of "breath" and shock absorbing. since then (>2 years), this system survived more impacts than that bashplate so far : )

Hey bro! I'm stunned! This a great great work. Can you provide the dimensions for me to do the same project?