As I have the LH engine casing off my IVJ xt600 for stator replacement,
I would like to take off the flywheel, and check/replace the failed starter clutch, a job that I have been avoiding for a while. ( The starter clutch had become unusable, and would sometimes jam, rendering the kickstart unusable, so I had previously removed the connecting gears via the starter gear cover ) I have since obtained a secondhand replacement clutch to fit.

I shall be employing a snap on puller, ( similar in appearance to the halfrauds item ) and will make up three suitably sized m8 bolts to secure it to the flywheel.
I have several concerns however, and perhaps those with experience of this job could comment.

Firstly, my puller has a pointed tip to locate in end of crankshaft. should i use this or make up a flat spacer ? I ask as i have seen images online of splayed crank ends after attempts at removal.

Secondly, I need to lock up the engine in order to release the nut on the end of the crank. The engine is still in the bike. other than removing the
right hand casing and putting a copper washer in the gears there, is there an effective way of doing this ? I don't have access to a rattle gun, and envisage using a breaker bar, but it will need to be locked solid.

Thirdly, once the puller is in place and ready to go, what is the favoured
method of releasing the rotor ? ( heat / hammer/ tighten wd40 etc & in what order )
To be honest I would rather leave the job undone than risk bending the crankshaft or damaging the bearings.

Look forward to your insights

Heat and a BIG hammer for the flywheel.

I used a home one same as yours,loaded up the puller and hit it several times very hard with a hammer and it popped off about a foot.....no heat but my puller did have a point which fitted into the end of the shaft...

I bought a little bronze thingy from Kedo which fits over the end of the crankshaft to protect it.... try not to use heat...

Magnets don't like heat & hammers.....

See here I just stripped one....

Geoff's one armed (for now) Tenere project... - Page 47 - ADVrider

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http://www.tenere.co.uk

To remove the crankshaft nut you could put it in gear & apply the rear brake to lock the crankshaft. If the clutch slips, then fit a spanner to the nut & hit it with a hammer to undo it.
When removing the flywheel it is best to not put pressure on the threaded end on the crankshaft to avoid damaging it. Use a spacer or an old tube socket, etc as in the pic

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Remember that Assumption is the mother of all f**k-ups.

I have successfully removed both the crankshaft end nut and the flywheel / starter clutch.

The crankshaft end nut was removed by inserting a 2p which jammed against the starter ring gear and the crankcase at the top, with the bike in gear and back brake on. The flex from the cush drive makes it too squishy for an impact driver to work. i found that the starter ring gear can be locked to the flywheel by inserting m10 studding so that it goes through one of the threaded holes in the rotor to locate in a ring gear hole. i used a breaker bar with success.



I used a snap on rotor puller and a breaker bar to remove the rotor.
once again a 2p coin was used to lock the rotor up solid as it wanted to turn with the puller. No heat was employed, just when i thought the rotor wasn't going to budge, it flew of the end of the crankshaft, taking the starter clutch parts with it.


On inspection, I find that the starter clutch parts i had purchased secondhand to do this job are , quite simply, wrong.
The starter clutch bearing on my IVJ has S shaped 'teeth',
whereas the spare I have is a different size, and has oval 'teeth'
looking at parts listings, the spare appeasr to be from a 3tB engine.
Non interchangeable, I am guessing.

3tb

IVJ



I have contacted Fowlers for a replacement starter clutch bearing
for the IVJ, and they tell me it is now discontinued.

Be very interested to hear from anyone who has successfully replaced or repaired the starter clutch on an IVJ, or any leads on getting a replacement bearing.

There is a rumour floating around on these boards that the IVJ bearing may be repaired by disassembling and turning round the S shaped teeth.
Can anyone confirm the validity of this rumour ?

The 3TB bearing ( made by Morse ) could, conceivably, be repaired by shortening the spring that surrounds the pawls (?)
Sprag Bearing

The IVJ bearing is marked NW ( a bearing manufacturer ) and then what could be 0M or OM or GM or 6M