xt600e electrical problem - help!

[simonlgp]

Hi, I am seeking any help / advice to get my xt600e (2000 model) back in order. I've had it looked at by 2 different mechanics now and still the problem persists, despite paying small fortunes to each. So, I've resorted to fixing it myself and with any help I can get.

Problem: Bike stutters, losing throttle power and then cuts out (all electrics gone). As it starts to stutter the indicators double tyime and lights dim etc. This occurs randomly whilst riding, but it was about every 50-60 miles the last time I had it out.

Quick-fix: When jump started after cutting out, electrics come back and bike is fine until it stutters and cuts out again.

Recent work done: I've put a new battery on, had the solenoid replaced and had ampage / recharging checks made and confirmed as normal etc etc. by two separate mechanics. They assured me they checked all connections but to no avail.

Before I take the whole thing apart and check every connection and electrical wire, I am hoping someone else has experienced similar problems and found a fix or has any useful words of advice for me. Thanks - your help will be much appreciated as I love my bike and currently have no transport and am finding jumpstarting it on the roadside not only tiresome but increasingly dangerous as well.

:confused1:

[Bill Ryder]

By jumpstarting do you mean using another battery to start it? It sounds like a corroded connection. I would look at the ground wire from the battery to the frame. Also when it does stop that is the time to try some troubleshooting. You need a volt/ohm meter anyway for travels. When it stops whip out the voltmeter and start following the voltage trail. This is where the wiring diagram comes in....battery, fuse block, ignition switch, kill switch, sidestand switch, etc, etc. Here in montana we see mouse damage where a little furry critter crawls around on the bike and chews on wiring.

[simonlgp]

Bill - thanks for your help.

Jumpstarting - I mean push starting it and dropping it into 2nd gear on the road side and not from another battery. I will get a meter and take it out for a spin. Thanks.

[samson]

it sounds like a problem with vibration. just chake and mulch everyting while the engine is runing and try to locate the problem . take also a look at the main fuse 30amp located on the startingrelay

hope this helps a bit

[*Touring Ted*]

If you pay a mechanic to fix a problem and it isnt fixed then you should take it back and insist they fix it or refund you.

[Moto Zulu]

I had an simular problem the battery wasn´t proper connected after titening the two bolts it was gone. But sounds to easy to be true :-)

regards Thomas

[proos]

Hi. Sims to me that you'll have an grounding problem. Try to wrikle all of the grounding wires and see if any of theme are loose. Allso, see if the engine bolts are thight.

If this not work, try to place an extra grounding wire direktly form the engine to the battery.

Hope you'll find an solution for your problem.

C ya. Proos.

[daytona]

Assuming your mechanics checked all the obvious stuff/ Kill switch kick stand safety switch etc etc! One thing i have found is the white wire connection coming from the stator going to the rectifier left side just behind carb boot. in the middle of boots if routed properly. They will oxidize and do what you are explaining. One other thing is the key switch when its about smoked will start this stuff to. Mechanics can fix things when its a problem! You know well it did it B4 but now in the shop works fine! can't fix what ain't broke! Also are you sure it just isn't running out of fuel? :confused1:

[DAVSATO]

samson, my bike has 20A fuse, 30 seems a bit high?

simon,
dont worry about checking every connection on the bike, there arent that many and theres hardly any bodywork to take off, it doesnt take long.
this sounds similar to something i had on my '97, it turned out to be a loose female spade connector on the ignition-CDI wire, at the CDI end(under the tail piece). a quick tighten with small pliers, and a little blob of copperslip to avoid any corrosion, and its run fine for years now.
the CDI is in a dum place if you ask me, begging to get covered in cack.

[hikeifulike]

send me your email and I will send you a repair manual and parts catalogue...in case you need them.