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Well, we have set a record this month for being late! The good news is we are now reporting from the new headquarters of Horizons Unlimited in sunny Surrey - BC, Canada that is. It has been a brutal few weeks, starting with packing up the old place, moving house, unpacking millions of boxes, painting the bare walls of our new office, and then reassembling all the desks, computers, monitors, printers, scanners and assorted odds and sods, connecting them to each other and the Internet.

The process was punctuated by moments of unbelievable exasperation, such as when we discovered that turning on the computers and lights at the same time blew the electrical circuits in the office. This was after we had already put all the desks and machines in place! The electrician will come on Monday to sort that problem, meanwhile we soldiered on to get the newsletter out, since we know how it brightens up the dreary northern winter to read about intrepid adventurers in faraway lands. So here it is, in time for the weekend, and we promise next month's issue will be out much sooner! Thanks for your patience.

From Mike Klobucar and Melie DeChamplain, Canada, New Zealand to Russia, Suzuki DR600 and ?

One of our MSF (Medecin Sans Frontieres) colleagues was kidnapped last August during his work with MSF. Since then, neither his family nor MSF have received any news. MSF is presently sending a petition to the authorities for his safe relief. We are asking you for your collaboration by visiting MSF web site for more information on the subject and sign the petition. The site is here. Please forward this message to other people. Thank you very much, Mike and Melie

Horizons Unlimited Travellers Meetings 2003 - time to plan ahead!

2003 is shaping up to be a banner year for Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers Meetings around the world. We have organizers busy and dates set for the following:

Australia - 25-27 April 2003 - Ulmarra, 12kms out of Grafton, NSW. Please let us know if you can help out. Details here.

UK - 27-29 June 2003 - 3rd Annual Meeting - Chris Bright and Glynn Roberts are organizing this again at the Black Horse Inn in Somercotes, same location as last year. The UK meeting last year brought together over 100 travellers from the UK and Europe, and was the highlight of the motorcycle travellers social season. Registration has already begun and numbers will be limited. If you'd like to present a slide show or put on a talk for the UK 2003 event, please let us know.

Portugal - 11-13 July 2003 - 1st Annual European Meeting - Goncalo Pais is organizing this event in Budens, in the south-western point of Portugal. Contact or me if you would like to assist in Portugal, or can be there and would like to put on a slide show.

Mexico - Oct. 31-Nov 2 2003 - Juan Carlos and Gerardo Ibarra are organizing this event, in Copper Canyon. If you'd like to present a slide show or put on a talk for the Mexico 2003 event, please let us know.

Bolivia - Nov. 8 2003 - Frank and Ann Schwarzbauer are organizing this event in La Paz. Details on Frank's page. If you'd like to present a slide show or put on a talk for the Bolivia 2003 event, please let us know.

Argentina - Tentatively planned for Viedma late November. If you'd like to help out, please let us know or contact Oscar Knecht.

New Zealand - 2004 - Nigel Marx is organizing this, tentatively in Christchurch. If you'd like to help out, please let us know or contact Nigel.

Thanks to all the volunteers! We still need volunteers to organize events in eastern US/Canada (hopefully this will be the first of many) and a 2nd Annual western US/Canada travellers meeting this summer. We have a lot of HU Communities in the US and Canada, so who wants to host a travellers meeting? Let us know what you think - we'll do all we can to support you and your Community. It's really not that hard, and it's a lot of fun!

So mark your calendars for at least one of these events. This is your chance to meet your fellow travellers, share adventures and travel tips, and incidentally to help support your favourite website, namely us! We are going to try very hard to be at as many of the meetings as possible ourselves, so we hope to see you there!

Horizons Unlimited Communities

I've had a couple of comments from Communities that not enough of you are dropping by for a visit! Remember that they are Communities, not just in case of a problem - they really do want to meet you! They'll show you around town, or just provide a place to stay for the night, or help service your bike - so start contacting them! The Communities are a terrific resource for travellers on the road, so check out the list and get in touch!

Please submit news reports, web links etc. to us for inclusion in this newsletter.

We try to link to your website if you have one. And if you don't have a website, we can help.

This newsletter is provided as a complimentary service for travellers everywhere, both on the road and (temporarily;-) off. Your support is greatly appreciated.

your editors, Grant and Susan Johnson, (about us, contact us)

 

Tiffany Coates, UK, Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia, in Argentina, R80G/S,

"Yes Folks, I have made it - completed the crossing of my fifth and final continent. Dead Horse in Alaska to Ushuaia, Southern Argentina Eight months and 18,259 miles. Which makes a five continent grand total of about 50 000 miles and 3 years on the road. Not bad when you think I had only learnt to ride a bike 2 months before I left the UK.

It was a fantastic feeling to reach Ushuaia- champagne celebrations for several days and in fact I managed to spend a whole week there. I tried to get myself and Thelma across to Antarctica but there were no late availability discounts - and at $3000 just for me that was way out of my budget. I had been inspired by the metal-studded snow tyres for bikes available in town.

So, what next... Well, I could hear the faraway beat of the samba drums...so it's just got to be, Carnival time in Rio, a mere 4000 miles away.

I have been heading steadily northwards along Route Three - long, flat straight bits of road with that 'Oh so lovely' Patagonian wind gusting constantly - each time I was getting annoyed with the wind threatening to blow me off the road, all I would think was 'it could be Ruta 40 ' and then I would feel like getting off Thelma and kissing the tarmac in gratitude! (see last month's comments for details).

At times Route Three feels like the Nullarbor - without the kangaroos; though the armadillos more than make up for them, on the quieter stretches of road they are scurrying around, and I have had some close calls with them - but don't worry Mum I haven't hit any yet. Yes, my Mum had a few words with me after she saw on the site that I had hit a chicken a couple of months ago.

I stayed at the South American bike travellers' 'Mecca' - the Posta in Azul- a fantastic reception as there were eight other travellers there that night - all with stories and experiences to share and laugh at. The three Japanese Bikers cooked up a Sushi Feast.

I would like to say thanks to everyone who has been sending me messages of support as it is always good to get them and discovering that people actually read what I write.

When do I return to the UK?? I don't know, it is definitely too cold to even consider it for a couple more months, hmmm, I could quite get used to the 30 degree heat here."

For more stories, check out Tiffany's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Ted Simon, UK/USA, "Jupiter's Travels," around the world, again, in Bangkok, R80GS Basic,

"This last month has seen huge changes in my journey. As I write this, it seems practically certain that America and Britain will attack Iraq in the next two or three weeks. The prospect obviously affects my feelings and my plans. I don't want to be just across the border when it happens, but I can't get through any earlier.

For the first time, being British will not help.

It's true that we are still playing cricket with Pakistan. I should wear a set of wicket keeper's pads, and give away cricket balls as I pass through. But what about Iran? And Turkey? And those troublesome Kurds? Ironically, Afghanistan may turn out to be the safest country in the region. I have to put my faith in the ordinary people I meet, as I always have. They have always been on my side. But it is difficult not to worry.

The other big change is that, for two months I will not be riding alone. My very dear friend from Chile, Malu Sierra, the woman I love, has come to ride behind me in Thailand and India. It was not my idea. I think she's crazy. She has never been on a motorcycle in her life and now, aged 61, she wants to do this. But how could I stop her...?

Ted and Malu Sierra in Bangkok

She flew to Bangkok on February 4th. I met her at the airport and took her back to the Opera Hotel in the Pratunam district. Bangkok was a tremendous challenge to me, not because I felt unsafe riding in it, but because I simply couldn't find my way. The road signs meant nothing to me, even when they were written in roman script. The scale of the city defied me. The rules of the road were incomprehensible. I had carefully planned my way into the city from the south, and was immediately frustrated, because motorcycles are not allowed on expressways. I had to employ a taxi driver to lead me to where I was going.

Yesterday I got some very bad news. The plan to fly the bike from Bangkok to India has collapsed. Two months ago I was assured by a shipper here that it could be done easily, and for a reasonable price. Since then, all has changed. It has something to do with increasing international tension and insecurity. Because motorcycles are classed as ''dangerous goods freight rates have shot up, and the bureaucracy in Thailand has become unmanageable. At least, that's what the agents say. I don't know whether to believe them.

Malaysia it seems, has no such problems, and I can fly it from Kuala Lumpur, but the total cost will be at least double. First we will have to ride several more days to get there. Second I will have to pay $250 extra to fly back through Bangkok, and the bike freight will also be correspondingly more expensive. And the irony is, it will be the same Thai Airways that takes the bike through Bangkok. How ridiculous! How painful!"

... on to Kathmandu...

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Gail and Eric Haws , USA, in Bolivia, on their 6th trip to South America, BMW R100GS,

"Arriving before noon in La Paz we expected to feel the effects of the altitude. Coming from only 1000 feet at home to this city one could experience the shortness of breath, possibly a severe headache or even nausea. Other than a bit of breathlessness we were doing well. Still, we had planned to spend several days to acclimatize and repack the gear we had stored the previous trip.

The weather was quite pleasant with cool nights. The Oberland Hotel is near the Valle de Luna, a rather surreal landscape sculpted by the rains and wind. We went to the mechanic's to retrieve the motorcycle on the second day. The arrangement was that some maintenance would be done such as oil change, checking the oil filters, tires, etc. Since our Spanish is limited we 'think' most of what we requested was done. The people at the shop are very accommodating and try to understand us. One of the managers does speak some English, better than our Spanish, so we felt comfortable with taking the moto and preparing for the trip.

On the last trip we had met a German rider, Frank, who lives in La Paz. He met us for breakfast and discussed routes to try which were new to us. Later in the week he and his wife came by to take us out to see a mountain and show us what they thought was a good way out instead of going thru the city. After dinner together we again went over maps back at the Oberland.

It was getting quite warm as we packed up the motorcycle the next morning at 9:00. We missed our turn on the city route and ended up blocks from where we wanted to be. But, with the help of the city police found our way quickly to the autopisto going south. On the Pan American we made good time until the first road block. It is not unusual to find major roads blocked by protesters. These can be about gas price increases, bus fares increased, political statements or?? We never quite know. But, the people do not act aggressive this time. They make way for us to pass thru, even waving and some give the thumbs up sign of approval. We stopped shortly after to take photos and video of a glacier which is reported to be rapidly melting. Near the thermal springs there is another road block, smaller, with less need to worry. However, it is a good idea to go slow and not show irritation, even displaying interest seems to speed us on."

Simon Kennedy and Rachel, Ireland, , two years heading east from London, in Australia, Honda Transalp and KLR250,

“Jees, it rains here doesn't it? Rachel and I just flew in from London after four months to pick up our bikes and continue the Australia tour.

Now here's the question: how insane is it to try to traverse the top end to Townsville in these weather conditions? Do the roads stay open? How hazardous is being on a motorbike? Simon"

Ed. Note: Chris McArdle, Melbourne Horizons Community, responded with:

"Most dirt roads will be impassable in the Top End and the Gulf at this time of year.

Check out Australia road conditions here, with links to Qld and Sth Australia road conditions

Some dirt roads may be open and you can chance it but if it rains while you are on them you have a problem. It's not uncommon for roads to be shut and towns isolated for weeks on end

The bitumen down to Three Ways and across to Mt. Isa and Townsville will be open unless there are local floods. Best advice is to ring the police or road dept's.

You won't have any troubles on a bike if you stay on the bitumen, but expect rain on the East coast as well.

Not much better if you decide to head south. We have just had our first serious rain in Oz for about 3 years and currently all dirt roads in the north of Sth Oz and Sth west of Qld are closed.

The Stuart (bitumen) is opened from Alice Springs to Adelaide. Cheers, Chris and Sally"

And finally back from Simon:

"Thanks for all the info on the roads out of Darwin. Rendezvous with the beloved has been bittersweet: is looking bedraggled and hard-worked. Who wouldn't after four months in a garage? But then, you can't ask for them to stay as pretty as the day you first met can you? Time to open the wallet for some surgery, not all of it cosmetic either.

News reports of APCs swept off bridges into rivers—‘rescue attempts are being hampered by the prevalence of fresh water crocodiles’—suggest that we will be stuck here for some time. Meanwhile am keeping busy building a large wooden floating device and filling it with two of every species. Your grey-bearded prophet, Simon"

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Maarten Munnik, Netherlands, around the world, in Thailand, Honda Africa Twin,

"Right now I am enjoying the cool weather in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand. From Bangkok we first drove to the famous 'bridge over the river Kwai'... which was very interesting. Many many tourists were walking across this railway-bridge... and so did we... and then... a train came... huh?!? Yes, it seems the railway is still in use, and all the tourists had to 'get the hell out of the way'... OK, it was not as if they had to jump into the water ;-) The train waited patiently until everyone had reached a safe place... Then a man with a red flag walked in front of the train. Which passed the bridge with the speed of a snail, braking before a sharp corner....

Bridge over River Kwai - picture by Cliff and Jenny Batley

A nice 'off-road' road (?) brought us back on track to the north. Where we visited 'Sukhotai' the ancient capital of Thailand, now only ruins... A great place to wander around... well, actually, drive around, course it's big... very big... and interesting. Especially around sunset it gets great atmosphere...

A side trip into Myanmar was the next plan, but the border-official at Mai Sot did not agree with that... We could cross the bridge... but only by foot... not by bike... And since Pam (my bike) is my loyal and trusted wife, house and friend... I would not dream of it. To leave her behind... especially when the man behind the uniform tells me to try it at Mai Sei... where we might get a 1-week permit for Pam :-)

Maarten and new friend.

A trip to visit a waterfall 40 Km down the road ends in a disappointment when the road-signs get so confusing... we don't know what to do anymore... The guy that made the signs was either crazy, drunk or devious... but probably all three of them...

Mai Hong Song, tribal area was great... I was the long-leg on a visit with the long-neck... Thanks to my travel-companion (short-leg Tip) I could make some great photos of Pam with three long-necked girls. These people are so interesting, never left their village in their life... well except when they fled from Myanmar... They have it all, school, hospital, shops, and factories... Of course there is also a downside to all this... They get an 'allowance' from the Thai government of 1500 Bath... per woman... So if your family has more boys then girls... you remain poor... Kind of China the other way around... Best thing is to sponsor them by buying things direct from them.

On the way to Chiang Mai I noticed that Pam's clutch needed new plate's... At full load it 'slips'... Luckily there is a good bike-shop in Chiang Mai... and even more luckily Daniel sent me the address within 1 hour after I mailed him... It's great to have good contacts. I guess I'll have to get them a few beers when we get back to Bangkok (yes, you too Shindji... for the super route-tips). The clutch-parts are ordered (well, will be ordered on Monday) and in the meantime we go to Myanmar for a side-trip... it they let us in this time ;-)

Well... that's it for now... A short story, but... my fingers hurt ;-) A big hug from northern Thailand - Maarten"

Arno Backes and Sian Mackenzie, Germany and UK, Australia via USA to South America, in Panama and Chile, on BMW R100GS PD and Yamaha XT600E,

"By the time we had to take the bikes to the port in Colon, we had quite a group together. Joining Georg, Guido, Sabine, Arno and I, were Yukiko - a Japanese woman on a Suzuki 250, and Mauricio - a Chilean who had ridden his bike down from Toronto. It was a regular convoy heading down the autopista to Colon, talk about attracting attention! It took almost all day to sort out the customs paperwork and then the port paperwork, we had to actually go into Colon to the customs office, just inside the Zona Libre.

Outside the police station in Panama City, our bikes about to be inspected.

However we had an escort, in the shape of a gate guard with a clapped out DT125 and a big gun, who was assigned to us until the customs papers were done. Our bikes were then checked out by the nose and 4 paws of the K9 drug unit and once pronounced clean, labelled with their destinations, while we filled out lots more paperwork. By the end of it all we were glad to see the back of Colon, and return to Panama City, even though it was by bus!! We then had a week to see the rest of the city and do some relaxing before flying south to Chile.

… Clean streets, orderly traffic and German beer in the supermarket - hard to believe we are in South America… A day late, the ship arrived with our bikes. We went to the port with the agent from Broom and Sepp and Susi, a German couple who were shipping their huge green van with the same company. There we saw our bikes coming off the ship. They seemed at first sight to be ok and we were very pleased to see them. On closer inspection however I saw that my pannier had a large dent and the whole thing was closer to the bike - it had been dropped at some point, heavily enough to dent the exhaust! Yuki was missing a few small things that were attached to the bike, nothing very valuable, just annoying to lose. We pointed all this out to the agent, who just shrugged his shoulders.

Trying to get Yuki’s bike to start.

So, the big question, would we recommend the roll-on roll-off ferry? For us, it was a good option. We didn't have the hassle of building and transporting crates, it was cheap and it got us a good distance south. For 2 bikes it cost U$585 including all the paperwork. I don't think we will use it to transport our bikes to Australia though. The ship takes around 3 months, plenty of time for someone to mess with the bikes!!

We spent the next day checking out the bikes. Arno finally got some welding done, my pannier was bent back into shape and we all did some re-packing. Finally we had our bikes back and were ready to ride off and explore a new continent."

For more stories, check out Arno and Sian's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Doris Maron, Canada, RTW, in Thailand, on 750cc Honda Magna

"The end of January I took a short trip to Laos. Exiting Thailand went smoothly but on the Laos side it took two hours for them to process a vehicle entry form so I could enter with my bike. After I'd seen about eight different people, I entered with a paper that allowed me seven days with my bike and restricted me to the province of Viang Chan. I learned a valuable lesson here - let them stamp your carnet even if the country isn't listed on the document. I'm not sure if that would have sped things up, but I think so.

I stayed in Vientiane one night then took highway #13 north into the mountains towards Louang Phrabang. This is not a highway you can make great time on because there are villages every few kilometers, but it is a wonderful ride. Hill Tribe villages are built along the edge of the mountain and the road passes right through them. As I got higher up into the mountains I noticed that there were no vehicles in the villages. People walked or rode bicycles. Everyone uses the road. I had to watch for cows, goats, dogs, chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese and people. They also use the edge of the road to dry some kind of grain. They gather it from the hills, pound it on the side of the road, then lay it out in neat rows along both sides of the road. I stopped to try and find out what it was, but no one understood me.

… The city of Louang Phrabang has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was about 5:00pm when I arrived and I took the first guesthouse I came to - very nice and quite new. It cost me 75,000 kip - about $13.00 Canadian. I wished I had a week to spend here. Laos is an interesting country and very pretty. Laos is becoming a popular tourist and backpackers route. There are dozens of new guesthouses going up in the bigger centers.

Somewhere along my route my water bottle leaked and all my valuable papers got wet. The precious bike papers looked awful and the customs entry stamp was now a red blotch. Just my luck, I had visions of them keeping me at the border for hours. I finally found the right booth and was fortunate to get a gentleman with a sense of humor. He asked about the entry stamp and said 'got rained on?' I said 'no, my water bottle leaked'. He laughed and stamped the paper and I was on my way back over the Friendship Bridge to Thailand.

… I leave Bangkok on March 3rd - and it's about time! I've been in Thailand for 8 months! Feb.16th I took my bike to Hellmans Logistics and prepared it for crating and its flight to Katmandu. Hellmans will handle it from here."

Patrick and Belinda Peck, Australia, USA to Chile, in Chile, Yamaha Super Tenere XTZ 750,

"… From Salta we travelled over the 4,700m pass (Paso de Jama) to San Pedro de Atacama. We travelled through the largest and driest desert in the world- it was amazing. We then arrived in Iquique, which is a duty free port, the only legal place we could sell the motorcycle to a Chilean. We put posters everywhere and put the bike out at the beach on the weekend- where everyone was!! We had a few guys look at it, but they didn't have enough money to buy it. We then went to the only big Japanese motorcycle shop in the Free-zone and they didn't even look at it- said they had enough bikes to sell!! Our hearts sank- what were we going to do. The pressure was building up to get home and we were getting nowhere fast.

We decided to go shopping in the free zone and parked the bike outside the bike shop- target marketing!! When we returned the bike shop owner made us a really low offer on the bike. Then Grant and Susan Johnson from Horizons Unlimited rescued us! They put our bike on the home page and said how desperate we were and the buyers came out of the woodwork- in the end we had four offers for the bike and chose the most convenient offer, but not the highest one (believe it or not!)

We found a like minded traveller who was looking to buy a motorbike- he was in Buenos Aires and we were in Iquique- top end of Chile. We decided to meet in La Serena - Central Chile. How we did the paperwork: We went to Customs in La Serena and they redid the motorcycle paperwork in Daniel's name, took the 'entered with motorcycle' stamp off our passport, put 'entered with motorcycle' stamp on Daniel's passport, changed it all in the Customs computer and we were off- no money paid, no hassles! We then gave Daniel a bill of sale and put the registration in his name. After this we were free to cross the border without the bike and he was free to leave with the bike.

We have set 'Miss Adventure' free to continue travelling the world! Daniel is going to drive her up to North America- where we came from! We are glad that is all behind us now. We then did a tour- the first time we had travelled in a car for 14 months and then hopped on a bus to Vina del Mar- Chile's beach resort town and RELAXED for the first time in a month- the relief was enormous."

For more stories, check out Belinda and Patrick's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Ricardo Rocco Paz, Ecuador, "Around the World for Peace," in Brazil,

"In Porto Alegre, I make a phone call to a friend of Nelida Iglasias, the grandmother of Argentinean bikers, who commented she has a friend in this city and gave me his phone number. Andre Wist shows up in a while at the bike shop riding an impressing Intruder 1400. He insists in taking us to his house, where he gives us stickers and T-shirts of his moto club, Libertade do Asfalto (Asphalt Freedom). The guy is a great one, a retired military police colonel, now dedicated to his 3 daughters, motorcycling and three girlfriends, pretty busy man. He gets us settled and then takes us to the river boulevard to have dinner; he takes one of his girlfriends along.

… The road that we have chosen, which will traverse the serra Gaucha and the serra do Rio do Rastro, is simply motorcycle nirvana. The serra Gaucha, occupies most of the southernmost Brazilian state, and the routes that criss cross it are perfect for our moto sport madness, after the many miles of straight boring roads in the Argentina flatlands. After two days of curves and more curves, speed and pure moto fun, with some dirt riding included, we get to the capital of the state of Santa Catarina.

Florianopolis, Santa Catarina, Brasil, has gone up to the top of my favorite places in South America. In the world for that matter. Not only is it a nice place, the city is divided with a part on the mainland coast and the other half, in the big island of Santa Catarina, united by two magnificent bridges, but also is surrounded by paradisiacal beaches and the city lies close to regions with fantastic motorcycling roads

On top of all these amenities, it has another that has me with the mouth wide open most of the time, trying to clean my mouth with the back of my hand and rubbing my eyes in disbelief, furthermore, I keep repeating the word 'incredible' again and again. This blessing, that can easily become a curse for an adventure motorcyclist, poor and not physically attractive like me, is the human natural beauties, of the feminine gender, that invade, congest and fill every space imaginable in this island city. They're everywhere, in the beaches, in the city, downtown, in the banks, in the shops, on the sidewalks, parks, restaurants, they invade the streets. And they're all blondes, beautiful, fit, tanned, sexy, feline, sculptural, voluptuous. This does not seem like the Brazil of the mulatas and the spectacular black girls. Here they're all Nordic, Italian, German, and Swedish. The weather makes them, poor things, wear very little clothing, just about the necessary to cover intimate parts and the little they wear, they do it with a sensuality that impresses.

… Friendship among motorcyclists is instantaneous. Late at night, Rui, a biker riding a nice Triumph Tiger and whom which we have talked extensively about the matter previously exposed, tells me to follow him to Café Cancun: 'You want to see beautiful women, you follow me.' he orders. On the way there, while we stop at the red light, he explains that today is Ladies night at this Café. A two block long line of women is waiting to access the place. We ride between the cars feeling the parking lot and park the bikes. Blondes, blondes and more blondes. I keep taking photos of this vogue, fashion, playboy and penthouse type models. Somebody can think that I'm exaggerating here. I've been to Rio, Fortaleza, Natal and other Brazilian cities. I've visited Medellin, Santiago, I've walked the streets of Buenos Aires and Caracas, all places known, among other things, for the beauty of their women, but I haven't seen yet a place like this one.

In this precise moment, I'm sitting at an Internet place, outside, they have live music, a dozen cute teenagers are dancing on the sidewalk, the street is full of people, all the businesses are open and is already 1:25 a.m. Anywhere I set my sight on, I can see a gorgeous woman, this is impressive. One moment please... a blond woman just walked in. Oh my God, she's incredible. Very tall, long blond hair, she has an incredible body… Oh no. She's sitting at the computer next to mine..."

Ed. I'm sure a few male travellers have just added Florianopolis to their list of must-see cities! And several couples will have removed it from theirs!

Frank Schellenberg, Netherlands, to South Africa, in Sudan

"The boat to Sudan was two days late because of a holiday (They call it Islamic Xmas). Getting off the boat, which was easier, Kamal was waiting for us... He is the guy that makes you pay more to enter Sudan but does all the paperwork as an official there should do. Prices vary and he made me pay 20 bucks as it should only be 4, the rest goes in his pocket! Just an advice for other travelers, don't give him your papers! You will only get them back after you paid. And if you ask for a receipt you will never get it even if he promises... He knows we know we don't have to pay but just doesn't care.

After that, as I forgot to fill up in Aswan. I tried to find petrol, which took some time. I found it at a private dealer after I asked where there was a hotel in Aswan, but instead of a direction, I was made to stay at his place for the night, for free. This hospitality is genuine and all over Sudan. I experienced it three days later in El Goleid again, man Sudan is all but good to you! (Leaving Kamal out of the picture of course.)

After leaving Aswan I joined the Italians for three days, as it was my first real piste which went really well for me! Camped under the stars in the desert two nights and the second night had the best meal since I left home! As one of the guys turned 59 we had wine, fresh made pasta, nice sausages and cheese, a very nice steak with cream sauce all in the middle of the desert, LIFE CAN BE TOO GOOD... but you need a woman at your side...

After reaching Dongala we split up as I thought the worst part was done... WRONG!!! The trouble started the day after... I left El Goleid and it was 4 hours and 80 km of pure pain. Deep sand, with tracks of trucks and cars making my front wheel climb out of the track all the time turning my bike 90 degrees around and so on. I fell 5 times but with low speed in soft sand. I must thank my nice diving instructor Emy for teaching me Rescue diving and EFR, in which you learn when something happens underwater to Stop, Breath, Think and Act. When it is 32 degrees in deep sand, after you fell with a heavy bike, you just change the line to: Stop, Drink, Think, Act and its all going to be okay. I was actually amazed with my own temper that day, as I normally get pissed when it doesn't go the way I want... After the 4 hours I reached the tarmac to Karthoum! Which I did with 130 km/hour as I was so happy to see tarmac!

I am now in Karthoum and I will leave for Ethiopia tomorrow, trying to catch up with Florian and Iris who are together with two Dutch in a car and a SA on a Tenere in Addis tomorrow! That's all for now... Frank"

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Chris and Erin Ratay, USA, around the world, in Guatemala, two BMW F650s,

"Nebaj is a small village in the Ixil Triangle. This area is almost exclusively populated by indigenous people who make their living cultivating the steep hillsides with vegetables and fruit, while also making some of the best and most interesting weavings in Guatemala.

We arrive tired and dirty from the rough road, but are immediately energized by the flourish of color worn by the women and young girls and the friendliness of the people. We find a nice, cheap hostel, which is housed in a big old single-level colonial house. They have a big courtyard inside, which is perfect for parking our bike. After a nice long rest, we wander out for dinner. Along the way, we find in the plaza an interesting outdoor concert playing folk music on a big wooden antique xylophone, which takes 3 men, a flute and someone on the bongo drums. In the background, other men and women are burning some kind of scented wood for incense, while other sit at a distance enjoying the whole atmosphere.

Bridge in Nebaj, Guatemala.

… We get up early, pack our things and head out to shop in the famous Sunday market of Nebaj. We are hurrying because we also want to go to the famous market of Chichicastenango later in the day. The plaza and side streets are jam packed with locals selling everything from meat to shoelaces to hand stitched costumes. The market is vivid with color and activity as people go about doing their weekly shopping. Of course each street has its specialty, so down one way you see colorfully dressed women lined up holding basket selling baby chicks. Down another way you see men in stalls sewing everything imaginable. Down another you see an endless row of butchers selling animal parts. When all is said and paid for, we've purchased one colorful head wrap with pom-poms, a lovely antique weaving and one freshly made Guatemalan sheepskin cover. We rush back to pack it all on the bikes, and off we go down the mountain, round twisty bends, through deep bulldust on our way to Chichi to shop all over again.

Erin heading for the next shopping experience!

Chris is patient with all this shopping as he knows I've been told about and looking forward to buying the textiles here for some time. We arrive in Chichi at about 1pm, prime shopping time. We decide to park the bikes in the gas station next to all the other tourist buses that have come in for the day.

Here too is a colorful market and many times bigger than most others in Central America. It not only covers the plaza but many side streets as well. In this area not just the women dress up in ornate costumes, but the men do as well. Their jackets are heavily and colorfully embroidered and they wear black breeches of black cloth with a woven sash and embroidered kerchief on their head.

They made the trucks go around, but insisted we drive through.

Shopping is easy as we bargain our way into buying a bedspread, machete for Chris, and two sets of hand woven place mats with napkins. Fully shopped out for the day, we squeeze our new purchases onto the bikes and ride off into the sunset, literally, to the famous city of Antigua Guatemala, or just Antigua like the locals call it."

Simon McCarthy and Georgie Simmonds, UK to Asia, in Japan, BMW R100GS,

"Although further east than Vladivostok, Japan is 2 hours behind Russia, so even in autumn the sun rises at 5.30am. This allowed us an early get away to start exploring the mystical land of the rising sun. Our first reaction was complete shock. I really didn't expect such a busy environment. Conurbations merged into one after another for miles on end. Any spare land no matter how small was turned into a paddy field. This time of year they were harvesting the rice sheaths, leaving them to dry over bamboo poles, then threshing them to remove the husk from the straw. Advertising boards, signposts, and neon lights littered the sides of the roads, which being extremely narrow, made you feel claustrophobic. Amongst all this mayhem Simon had to locate the traffic lights. No mean feat. That said, the road systems and signage were remarkable, you were constantly reminded of what road you were on and how far junctions were ahead of you.

As we passed through towns and villages we were aware of very pleasant floral smells wafting about. It seemed quite uniform and with no obvious source. With what we learnt about Japanese technology during our subsequent 2 months I really wouldn't be surprised if the smell wasn't piped in.

Once we got off the main roads favoured by cars and fast bikes, we did manage to hit quite amazingly narrow country lanes with frightening hairpin bends climbing you up and down the mountains. If it weren't for the spotlessly clean convex mirrors on every bend we would have come a cropper a few times. All in all, the whole driving experience could only be described an assault on your senses.

Finding places to rough camp was a nightmare. Japan had none of the woods or swathes of unused land that we had become used to across Asia. Crops were planted everywhere and woods were only on the steep mountainsides, impossible to reach. And plentiful dirt tracks didn't exist either. It was a bit of a shock to the system to have to spend almost an hour each day finding a suitable site. Apparently we could have camped in public parks or in the middle of roundabouts just because the Japanese are too polite to ask you to leave. But we didn't want to take advantage of this quirk of their nature. There was no real network of organised campsites in Japan either, I suppose the Japanese are just far too fond of their luxuries.

… Food in Japan was a major problem due to Simon's dislike of fish, seafood and any of its derivatives, unless it's haddock, covered in thick batter and tastes of beef dripping. I, on the other hand, was in seventh heaven being in a country where 95% of its food comes from the sea and is rarely cooked. And finally for Pad, as long as the serving was BIG he would eat anything. So whilst Pad and I tucked into takoyaki - fried octopus balls and sushi trains (Pad won 12 plates to my 6) Simon sat there withering away and becoming more dysfunctional. He couldn't even face the ramen noodles, which were always cooked in a fish based broth. Luckily Mos Burger was there to save the day, 10 times tastier than the golden arches, Elvis wouldn't have stood a chance. And so the pounds piled back on; which was a good job as Simon had lost 14 kilos since leaving England.

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… And then the dreaded day arrived, one we could put off no longer; The drive into Tokyo. We had heard too many horror stories and warnings of not to attempt it at the weekend. As if preparing for battle I meticulously planned the route to the tiniest of details. One of the best investments we had made was to buy a highly detailed road atlas. A minor problem was that it was printed in kanji and only the larger towns had translations into Roman script. But we got used to this inconvenience and the atlas became our best friend. With much fear and trepidation we set off on a Sunday to drive into the metropolis of over 8 million people. Only one minor mistake, which I recovered with the use of a trusty compass. As we approached our guesthouse, I felt justly proud until we turned the corner to be confronted with an orderly queue of homeless people waiting for the soup kitchen to open. What area had I booked us into?

Like any other city, town or village, Tokyo had its fair share of pachinko halls and Love Hotels. The former is a gambling craze that has lasted for years. It's a type of vertical pinball on which the Japanese spend billions each year. I had thought that slot machine arcades in England were gaudy but pachinko took the biscuit. The noise of bucket loads of ball bearings racing through 4 storey high buildings (all backed up with thrash metal over the sound system) was deafening and the apparent addiction to it frightening.

Love Hotels are a prime example of the strange attitude that Japanese have towards sex. They are highly visible themed hotels with 'flamboyant facades, rococo architecture, turrets and battlements' Rates per room (you must find your own guest elsewhere) are determined by the time of day such that you are either 'resting or staying'. Each hotel has a curtained parking area so cars cannot be seen from the road. Photos of the available themed rooms are displayed in the foyer.

On our final night in Tokyo we entertained our guesthouse friends and the owner's family to a home-made English feast. We spent the day preparing a menu of chicken and mushroom pie, steak and onion steamed pudding, sausage toad-in-the-hole, and roast potatoes, followed by apple pie and an apple and mixed fruit crumble. We really had no idea how this would go down with the mixed nationality crowd. Unsure at first they all tucked in with chopsticks (even the ice-cream). Not a crumb was to be left.

This we felt was a fitting end to our 8 weeks in this most strangest of countries. We left rather shell-shocked but glad we had added Japan to our agenda."

For more stories, check out Simon and Georgie's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Cliff and Jenny Batley, UK, UK to New Zealand, in northern Thailand,

"Hi to all you cold bunnies out there! The weather here in northern Thailand is about 25-28 degrees during the day but it cools down quite a lot in the evenings, though it is still probably 15 degrees! Now that we have moved south a little - nearer Bangkok it does not cool down in the evenings so much which is not a nice for sleeping :-(

After being in Pakistan, India and Nepal, Thailand is great, much more civilised and much cleaner, there is also not quite so many people to every square inch so you can get about more easily, the roads are absolutely wonderful, there are real motorways (though around Bangkok they don't allow bikes to use them) and there are some of the best twisting roads we've ever seen here as well. Although we still managed to find ourselves on a long stretch (about 50 miles) of rough dirt track around the mountains! Cliff nearly came straight back down one steep part and Jenny got stuck in a rut - what fun!

Since we got back into Thailand we have spent most of our time up in the North - very beautiful jungle mountains. We spent 4 days or so in Chiang Mai where we met several other bikers - two of which are very famous in the biking community - both old but still going around and around on bikes - although they seem to have got stuck in Thailand for a while now (both single with Thai girlfriends!). We look a ride to the Long Neck Karen tribe village - all very commercialised but we got to see them with all their bands of bronze around their necks - heavy stuff it is.

We are heading south now and aiming to get to Singapore by around the 17th of February so that we can - hopefully - fly the bikes to New Zealand (if we can get a reasonable price) thus saving us about 3 weeks time of doing nothing whilst waiting for them to arrive in NZ by sea. Today we are hoping to find the Tiger Temple - where apparently some monks keep some pet Tigers…

Nice kitty!

… Just a quickie email to you all to let you know that we have updated the web site again now - basically includes Cambodia, Laos and the North of Thailand.

We got a bit sunburnt yesterday on the beach here in Phuket! and we have been diving off of the Phi Phi Islands (where they filmed "The Beach") - beautiful. Ah well back to the water… Jenny & Cliff"

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Lew and Achi Waterman, USA, North and South America 2001-3, in Brazil

"The club member led us to his clubhouse/nightclub and offered us free use of their dormitory. The dorm was a mess with bunk beds and filthy mattresses in a dungeon-like atmosphere. We declined the kind offer and were led to a nearby filthy motel, where men take their whores. We were tired and hungry after riding all day, and being strangers, I didn't want to look for an affordable room in the biggest city in South America that would accept Punky, so I accepted the room.

The Hells Angels wannabe club members didn't sit well with Achi and they wanted me to have a drink and talk. So, with Achi's reluctant permission, I left her in the room and went back to the clubhouse for a few hours. One big mistake after another… I suffered Achi's righteous wrath for 3 days until she cooled down on a nice beach in a nice hotel with air conditioning and a swimming pool. Temps in the area are reaching 104 very humid degrees and it can rain heavily at any time. I strongly advise touring this part of South America in wintertime. Tropical beaches, coastline and hills are breathtakingly beautiful. Every town along the way is practicing and preparing for Carnaval celebrations.

Lew and Achi Waterman - picture by Ricardo Rocco

Thanks to Grant Johnson at horizonsunlimited.com (the best info for international riders on the Internet) for his shipping info and advice. I think I will probably ship the bike to Miami from Rio rather than spend more money paying incompetent mechanics. Maybe I can get some help from someone getting the engine fixed properly or replaced. Critter is still noisily thumping down the road trying to make me believe it can finish the ride up the Brazilian coast to Belem, but I think it foolish to try."

Daniel Todd, USA/Puerto Rico, second around the world tour, KLR650,

"The Red Center of Australia was a blast. I started with an off-road ride on the Mereenie Loop through Aboriginal Land. It wasn't that rough in most places but I was on the last day of my three-day permit so I didn't really have time to polish my off-roading skills through the bull dust! Lean back and gas her when in doubt! The corrugation was also negotiable when I kept my speed up, my weight back and soon I was 'floating' over the worst sections.

My efforts were rewarded when I hit pavement at the Kings Canyon campsite and met up with the same overlanders that had carried my knobby tire all the way down from Darwin to Alice Springs! (god bless their souls). From the top of the canyon we sat in awe watching a burning sun silently slip below the horizon. Africa and Australia are the only places in the world where I have seen sunsets like these. They say that it has to do with the dust particles. I rode out to the Olgas the next day and hiked around this impressive rock formation that even overshadows its twin sister, Ayers Rock. This is also the beginning of the infamous "Gunbarrel Highway" the gruelling off-road track that runs halfway across the Continent with sign posts that read 'warning, no fuel for the next 1130 KMS'! I rode the first 20 KMS though the deep bull dust and wondered how the bike would handle loaded with all the fuel and water I would need to make this arduous journey!"

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Ghost Rider: Travels on the Healing Road
by Neil Peart

Looking for a travel book for someone special? Go to our Books pages, where we have listed some of the best motorcycle travel books, as well as a number of BMW books, general motorcycle books, and travel guides.

There's links to Amazon USA, Amazon UK, and Amazon Deutschland, so no matter where you are - you can order books at great prices, and we'll make a dollar or a pound or a Euro, which goes a very little way to supporting this e-zine.

There's also links to search Amazon sites for all their products, books, CDs etc., and yes, we get a tiny piece of that too. We really appreciate it when you start your book search from our website! Thanks for the support!

Book suggestions please!

If you have a book or want a book that you think other travellers would be interested in please let me know and I'll put it on the site. Thanks, Grant

PMS - Parked Motorcycle Syndrome... You may be experiencing Parked Motorcycle Syndrome if...

You check the tire pressure just in case it might be nice in a few days.

You straddle a kitchen chair, twist your right hand back and forth, and go "Vroom, Vroom!"

You wonder if you should go start up your bike just to make sure the battery tender is doing its job.

You know that it's been a month, three weeks, five days, and eleven hours since you got home from your last ride.

You wonder if those bugs on the front of your bike from your last ride will clean off easier when they are frozen.

You realize that the longer it's been since you've ridden, the lower the riding temperature becomes that you would consider "tolerable".

You drive around in your car to see if the melting snow runoff would really get the bike too dirty.

You still blame a bad hair day on "helmet head".

You go shopping for new gloves and boots that are "a little warmer" just in case the snow melts but it stays this cold for a while.

You look for more places on your bike to mount connectors so you can wear two layers of heated clothing.

"Travel gives a character of experience to our knowledge, and brings the figures on the tablet of memory into strong relief."
--Henry Tuckerman (1813-1871).

"Time is the most valuable coin in your life. You and you alone will determine how that coin will be spent. Be careful that you do not let other people spend it for you."
--Carl Sandburg

"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time."
--John Knox

"Dear Grant and Susan, Enclosed is my check to support your efforts with Horizons Unlimited. It's a great service for dreamers as well as travelers."
Jay Green, USA

Thanks so much for your support, Jay!

"Though my contribution, enclosed, will not get you around the world again, I hope it helps Horizons Unlimited stay afloat. Through a chain of contacts gained through your web site, and other sources, I've gained valuable information assisting with my "Blue Nose" run to the Arctic Circle. I just appreciate the info Horizons Unlimited provides. Ride well."
Lou Wissenbach, USA

Thanks a bunch, Lou, and good luck with your Blue Nose run!

"Your page is fantastic and helps me a lot. Through this page I found many people like me, that are looking for some 'adventure'. I have to inform you that I am 55 years old, them you can understand how I feel to travel soon soon.. Thanks and a lot of success."
Cesar Doria, Brazil

"Thanks for another great issue!"
Nick Palmer - North Carolina (R 80 G/S)

"Hello! Did a contribution through amazon to You and Your fantastic site. Incredible work. Was asked to contact You for a thank You but I think its me who should THANK YOU!! Incredible work You do. Don't know what's in it for You but I'm pretty sure it will get You to Nirvana. Kind Regards"
Stefan Nilsson, Sweden (Doctor No)

Ed. Thanks so much for your support, Stefan, but we're still waiting for Nirvana!

"Hi Susan and Grant, thanks for your great website! Helps a lot, entertains and gives new ideas. We recommend the site regularly to other travellers since we started our trip two years ago."
Ralf and Caroline Koebler, Germany

"I would like to start a new Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers Community for Puerto Rico. Thanks for replying to my interest and for the obvious hard work and professional handling of your impressive site. Take care y mucha salud a usted y a su esposa. Gracias."
Angel Jiminez, Puerto Rico

Ed. Thanks for starting the Puerto Rico HU Community, Angel!

"Susan, You guys are simply wonderful! I do not know how you manage to be so efficient in operating your site and answering Email too. Will love to meet you somewhere. Thanks again,"
Syed Saghir, USA

"Keep up the great work, and allowing us to live our dreams through others actions."
John Stephens, Canada

Ed. Thanks so much for your support, John!

"Hi Susan & Grant, Came across your site by accident... two of my past interests have been travel and motor bikes. Sold my last bike when I was 71 years. Really enjoy your site, full of interest keep up the good work. Rgds Alan"
Alan Hardy, Canada

"Hello Grant & Susan!! GRADULATIONS on a Great "PAGE". I have learned so much from reading the many articles. I can't stay away."
Ron Comerford, Ohio, USA

Ed. Thanks so much for your support, Ron!

"Hi Susan, Thanks for the reply. An underwriter for my travel insurance has pulled out from insuring me, cause he say the newspaper article in which I was interviewed. You are right, the less info the better. Will see how this goes now. Thanks and keep up the great work!"
Dalbir, Singapore

"Hi Grant, Glad you like the poster... we're spending too much time reading the latest Ezine. Another top issue filled with amazing tales. This is a fantastic project, the site, the communities, the meetings and the merchandise and it enriches so many lives. We're glad just to contribute in our small way."
Dianne and Haydn Durnell, Australia

Ed. Thanks, Dianne and Haydn, for your creative efforts in designing the HU Travellers Meetings poster!

"One world, Two Wheels, and a damn good website!!! I just registered for a community in Anchorage, Alaska. Thanks for everything."
Chuck Manley, Alaska, USA

Ed. Thanks for starting the Anchorage, Alaska, HU Community, Chuck!

"HI Grant and Susan, Thank you so much for providing horizonsunlimited and your amazing level of support. Putting our situation on the home page really brought the buyers out of the woodwork when we were desperate. Hope to meet you one day somewhere, sometime, in the meantime heaps of love and thanks to everyone involved."
Belinda and Patrick Peck, Australia

"Sorry, my english is bad. Lo siento pero mi ingles es muy malo asi que les voy a contestar en castellano. La idea de crear una comunidad para los motoqueros es debida a que yo poseo una moto (yamaha maxim 550) y me e hecho de muchos amigos viajando. Por eso quiero crear una comunidad, para darles una mano a los viajeros que anden por aca. Un abrazo de mi parte y sigan adelante con el servicio que brindan."
Pablo Arroyo, Argentina

Ed. Gracias for starting the Trevelin, Argentina, HU Community, Pablo!

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ISSN 1703-1397 Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Ezine - Copyright 1999-2003, Horizons Unlimited and Grant and Susan Johnson. All rights reserved.

REDISTRIBUTION is allowed, indeed encouraged, but other than the following requirements, only with permission. You may forward copies of the Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine by forwarding it yourself by hand. You must forward the issue in its entirety, no fee may be involved. Please suggest they Subscribe!

Legal gibberish:(particularly for those in countries that have more lawyers in one town, just for instance, New York, not to name any names, than some whole countries, as another example, Japan. Again, not naming anybody specifically you understand) Recommendations are based on positive or negative experiences of somebody, somewhere. Your mileage (kilometrage if you insist) may vary. We are not responsible in any way for any product or service mentioned, and do not warrant any such mentioned product or service, and are not responsible for any bad things that may befall you. You are responsible for yourself! Act accordingly. We check all links and information given as close as possible to publication, and all info is correct as best we can determine at that time.

From MCN in the UK,

"Speed limits are being raised in Italy to improve road safety. Italian transport minister Pietro Lunardi believes higher speeds will improve the traffic flow, and encourage motorists to pay attention. The change will affect three-lane motorways, with the limit raising (sic) to 150km/h (93mph), from January 1, 2004. Lunardi went on to say that psychologists and doctors say people who go faster drive better and are more careful, and that only 9 per cent of fatal accidents were caused by speeding."

(Ed. note: Somehow I think the Italians may be the only ones on the planet who get it - with the possible exception of the Spanish...)

Is there a two-wheel drive motorcycle in your future?

Yamaha's Ohlins-Developed Two-Wheel Drive is coming - details here.

Peter and Kay Forwood, Australia, around the world since 1996, in St Vincent & the Grenadines, on a Harley Davidson,

"16/2/03 It was Kay's birthday and I guess you could say I took her to this secluded private island in the Caribbean and had dinner on a luxury private yacht just to ourselves. But in reality we took a stroll around the small island, watched the rough seas crash onto its reefs on the windward side and relaxed on the boat having leftovers for dinner. It was the same day, the difference being who you want to impress with what version.

20/2/03 We were signed onto the monsoon as paying crew which means we help with the sails, anchor and washing down of the decks after a salty sail. It also means hoisting the dingy, scraping barnacles and weed off the hull. This we did, the captain and myself, snorkelling down and removing the worst areas, in preparation to go to Barbados. Leaving at 12 noon we had hoped to sail north a bit through some more islands before motoring east. However the wind had swung around more northerly which meant motoring all the way, 20 hours into 3-4 metre seas into the wind. We reduced our speed to arrive at 8 am and to make the ride a little smoother."

Ed. The Forwoods have been to over 125 countries in Africa, Asia, the Middle East and Europe. In September 2002, they started their final leg, through South America. Horizons Unlimited is proud to host their entire trip story here.

Falk Thümer and Reina Kasperowski, Germany, around the world, in Argentina, R100GSPD and Suzuki XF 650 Freewind,

"We made it!!!! We are in Buenos Aires and have finished the whole trip. We have been down to the southernmost point in America, Ushuaia, the place where the Panamericana ends. We are very happy and also proud that we have done this trip. We had a wonderful time, of course not without problems, but that's not what you expect, doing such a trip and having no problems at all. Argentina is a great country. If we had to live somewhere else it would be here. The prices are much cheaper than in Europe or the US and the landscape and the people are marvellous. Patagonia is one of our favorite spots down here.

Now from Buenos Aires we fly back home. Tomorrow we will start organizing everything, hopefully shipping the bikes back won't be a hassle. After that we are going to celebrate a little bit, celebrate the good bye and also the aim we reached. And you are part of that all. Without your help and support we wouldn't have had such a wonderful trip and a lifetime experience. Thank you very much, we often think of you all. By the way, the US was for us the easiest country to travel in, it was just fun. Greetings from Reina and Falk"

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Wolfgang Surmund, Germany, Central America and ??

"I am now in Flores, Guatemala at the Lago Peten. I come from Mexico and Belize. Belize was very nice. I want to go to the South, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama. Is someone on the road here??"

Ryan Miguel Bock, USA, Prudhoe Bay, Alaska - Ushuaia, Argentina, in Mexico, KLR650,

"...I am a KLR rider from California, on a trip from Alaska to Argentina. Currently I'm in Guadalajara, planning to go through Colima, Michoacan, Guanajuato and Mexico DF over the next couple weeks. (Ed. Note as of Feb 6) I'm hoping to meet some locals to join in recreational day rides, street or dirt, and for general camaraderie and motorcycle mayhem :) Look forward to meeting! Cheers Ryan Miguel Bock"

John Kennedy, (kcfire) USA, to Mexico, and on it seems! KLR650,

"Greetings from San Pedro on Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala. I'm staying at "Solar Pools". For those of you with GPS, N 14 41 684 W 91 16 181. Probably stay here and head north. I'm tired of getting lost in every town I try to go through. Later, John"

Thomas Bostedt, Sweden, around the USA, Yamaha XJ900 Diversion,

"...I just turned 50 and have taken some time off for riding in the US. For the moment I'm in Galveston waiting for clearance from Customs. If I get that I have planned to cross over to San Diego. My English is very bad so I have difficult to communicate with people. Writing is a little bit better... Any ideas... any information will be of help, thanks in advance and happy riding. Thomas"

Vincent Danna, France, around the world, in Pakistan, BMW R100GS,

"I'm getting better day after day. Still have to rest for 3 months here in Islamabad... The computers are real slow in Pakistan... I will put info for other travellers for Pakistan on my website soon, you’'ll get a copy.

Anybody passing through Islamabad in the next month or so make sure you look up Vincent! See last months ezine for more on what happened. Grant

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William - (KTMwill), UK, to India, in Nepal, KTM,

Just thought I would let you know I am currently in Kathmandu and it is very nice, relaxed, full of western tourists and quite safe... there is currently a cease fire in place between the government and the Maoists, however, even before this, tourist were never targeted anyway. There is usually some form of terror organisation in any country you visit, be it Nepal, India, Pakistan or the UK! I will be flying me and the bike to Bangkok in about a week (Feb. 19)...

Pan-American 2002, Fabien Mirabaud, Thomas Girodot and Aurélien Chardeau, France, NY to Tierra del Fuego, Honda Transalps,

Lake Titicaca, and on to Bolivia … (en francais)

Sjaak Lucassen, Netherlands, second around the world trip, In Ushuaia, Argentina, on Yamaha R1,

I couldn't resist this pic of his from Africa...

Ed. note: Unfortunately he's very bad at keeping both his website and me up-to-date! so nothing new.

John Sutherland and Simon Davidson, UK, London to Sydney, in Egypt,

"...visa obtained from Sudanese Embassy in Cairo on 24th February within 28 hours, passport dropped off at 9am and picked up the following day at 2pm and paid for in local currency with a bit of wrangling, although we are doing a trip for charity and played this card fairly early on.
1. Application form from main desk
2. Complete, photocopy in triplicate from shop 100m down the road
3. Submit all four forms with four passport photographs along with letter from Embassy (or letter from embassy stating that a recommendation is not possible - UK Embassy)
4. Return following day, pay and pick up passport with no expense spared hologram visa and leave wearing winning smile."

Ed. note: It's getting better!

Mads Are Hie, Norway,

"The Primus Rally in Norway took place last weekend. Bikers from Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Netherlands, Belgium and Germany showed up this year. Approx. 100 bikes. 18 below zero - beautiful weekend.

My photos aren't ready yet, but Baard Meldals web-page is updated with photos from this years Primus Rally. His main page.

Henk de Lange, South Africa, London to Cape Town, Starfish AIDS charity, Yamaha Tenere's,

"This is the last batch of photos. I have a ticket booked for London and I will be there around the 27th March. Hope that we can meet up for a drink one day. Thanks. Henk"

In the mud in Tanzania

By Greg Aldis, in Australia,

"Jorg is from Germany and is spending a year travelling Oz on his Africa Twin, he is working in Sydney for the next 6 weeks or so then heading for Vic, Tas, SA, the center, Kimberly's, Nth Qld etc. If you like to offer him some hospitality or show him some good rides or just catch up for a beer drop him an email"

By Ian Hallett, in Australia,

"Went for a walk down the main street at lunchtime and spotted two well-laden bikes parked near some shops. Markus and Mirjam (pronounced Miriam) have been here for a few weeks and will be here for another 6 months. She's on a Suzuki Freewind and he's on a Tenere. They bought the bikes in Sydney.

They'd ridden from Bourke and other places north and were heading for Canberra today. I recommended that they go via Blayney, Trunkey, Crookwell, Goulburn and Tarago rather than the main roads. They seemed grateful for the advice.

After Canberra they're heading further south and then west. Their email."

Denis Dennehy , (Menace) Ireland, RTW 2000-2003, in Kenya on R1100GS,

"South and East Africa... Where is everyone? Arrived in Nairobi yesterday and have only spotted seven overland bikes since Capetown. Three Tenere's out there - Fred Symes (UK) in Dar Es Salaam working on his two self-stated vocations - engine rebuilds and 'talking crap'; A C Gaskell (UK) continuing south from Nairobi any day now; and Alain (Belgium) in Arusha heading north slowly (2.5 years from Capetown must be some sort of record). The Beemer crew includes Stefan Weder (Swiss German) on a 'remodelled' R1100GS heading south from Malawi in search of new parts and new teeth. Chris and Gill (UK) on a Cape to Cape aboard an R80 and remembered by all the locals as 'the guy with the big beard!' - last seen in northern Malawi. And, Steve Derungs (Swiss German) on his R80GS HPN still knocking around in South Africa before heading back up north. Lastly, amongst the miscellaneous - Lars, a German, left Capetown mid-Jan on a two month dash back to Europe but nobody seems to have seen him. Are you still out there Lars?"

Frank Butler, Papua New Guinea, around the world in 1000 days, F650GS, in Indonesia,

Feb 4 - "the big trip is underway, I have made it as far as Vanimo. I am in deep negotiations with the Indonesian Consul here so Mr Beem (the Bike) can be the first vehicle to cross over from PNG. To be honest I don't like my chances, but as always I am giving it a go."

the postcard shot...

Feb 10- "Well here I am, still in Vanimo and still waiting for the Indo's to sort out the paper work. If this doesn't happen before the 18th of this month then I will have to get a ship back to Lae and restart the trip by heading directly to Singapore."

As you can see I am trying to make the best of a desperate situation and not let the stress get to me. Hope you can all say the same.

Frank the Buddha

Lukim yu... Frank"

Nelson Oliveira, Canada, to South America, F650GS,

"I am planning on starting in April from Toronto, Canada and I should be in Mexico by May. Then, sometime in July in Panama, from where I will ship to South America (not sure yet where to)."

Geoff van de Merwe, South Africa, UK to SA, Yamaha Tenere,

"On Monday 3rd March, I leave London on a 1988 Tenere to ride to my hometown of Port Elizabeth, South Africa, via Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Sudan etc. If all goes to plan, I expect to take about 6 months. Although I will have to move it to get through Sudan before it gets too hot.

If you like, you will be able to find a few pics on my website. Do you mind if I link my site to yours?

Ed. note – no problem! See here for details on linking to us.

Thank you so much for the excellent website, which has saved me heaps of time and stress. I look forward to being able to join a community when I arrive and settle back down in South Africa, hopefully I'll be able to show as much hospitality to others as has been shown to me over the past few years. "

Dan Walsh, UK, USA to South America, BMW F650 Dakar,

(Ed. note: in response to a post on the HUBB)

"...looks like there's quite a crowd gathering. I fly into Toronto March 13th (inshallah), gonna spend a month or so in the US then heading south as far as Argentina on a 650 Dakar. Email me if you're interested in hooking up for some cold beers and sketchy trails. Maybe we can convince ourselves to try the Darien Gap. Cheers for now,"

Ed. note: Ummm, let's hope the beer doesn't convince you lot to try!

Dirk Bachmann (currently in Germany), Jurgen Homann (currently in New Zealand), Mario Negre (currently on the Canary Islands), RTW as Official Ambassadors for The Global Polio Awareness Campaign 2001+, UNICEF NZ (www.2-mad.com)

"Long time no 'see' - we apologize for not having informed you about the happenings in awhile. Dirk spent most of 2002 in Europe campaigning in Denmark, Italy, Austria and above all, Germany. Also, he was able to motorcycle across the USA last summer promoting the UNICEF's Halloween campaign against polio. Mario also campaigned a lot in Europe visiting some seven more countries. Then he left for Angola to work with refugees and IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons). He has been collaborating with local NGOs and some UN agencies. Also, he has visited some UNICEF projects there.

Volcano Etna, Italy

Jürgen proceeded and finished his single-handed part of the trip from South East Asia, South Asia though the Middle East into Europe and has finally reached Germany to think and decide about the future. His numerous field visits provided him with a real intense insight into the life of the poorest on our globe. First vaccinations in Laos were as exciting as all the others following in Cambodia, Thailand, Nepal, Bhutan and India. Learning about the differences in difficulties to provide the basics of a basic health care - the vaccinations - in different countries was an extraordinary experience. His route through Kashmir, Pakistan and Iran also guided him through the most politically troubled areas of the region, but fortunately he can only report on the great hospitality and friendliness of the people in all these areas - he was spared any negative experiences.

BMW Team Tehran, Iran

Our campaign has now been actively working for the eradication for more than 2 years and all of us committed ourselves to proceed until the successful eradication of polio which seems very close - hopefully next year we will count the last victims of this unfortunate and unnecessary disease before then being able to declare the globe polio-free. Again, we are so grateful to all of you who believed in our campaign and the resulting support given. It is wonderful to see how much help is offered when asked for. You certainly showed your goodwill to help the children of the world and I hope every one of you feels encouraged and motivated to extend help and support as much as possible in the future."

Goose and Lucy, (Adrian Greygoose and Lucy Gardner), UK, around the world, R1100GS,

"Just to let you know that rather sadly the Goose on the loose trip is now finished. We updated the website last week with the last thrilling installment.

Lucy and I are now back in the land of work but already planning the next trip, which, albeit, will not be until 2005. Thanks to everybody for keeping in touch, if you're in or around St Kilda, Melbourne, drop in for a beer. Goose & Lucy"

Mariola Cichon, USA, back home after an accident, KLR650,

Has posted the story of her accident and it’s aftermath here.

Rich Kickbush, Australia, around the world, KLR650

"At about 6.30 yesterday morning, the Two Wheel Wandering world tour ended with a squeal of tires and a very big bang.

Five and a half years ago, I left Perth, Australia bound for Canada - 'just for 12 months'. One year and a half ago, I finally left Canada bound for Perth, on a wing and a prayer and a motorcycle in good condition.

The bike is now in a crate, carefully constructed of oversize Malaysian matchsticks, currently in a container either on its way from Singapore, or floating just below the surface in waters somewhere nearby, acting as a general shipping hazard. Not quite as healthy as when it left, a broken frame, dying battery, and a engine that uses a litre of oil every 300 miles, its wearing the experience of almost seventy thousand kilometres with a kind of beaten pride...

Me? A little older, a lot poorer, not much wiser...but with memories that will last a lifetime, or at least until I take up binge drinking... Whatever happens, I can stand proud and say... I MADE IT.

There's something special about achieving something like this that makes anything you had to do to get there worthwhile...but its a strange feeling, the joy of crossing the finish line, slowly but inevitably followed by the confusion of 'so what do I do now?' Suggestions, job offers and donations to the Rich Kickbush 'Life after World Motorcycling' project gratefully received, preferably in the strongest currency of the time.

Sooo... is this The End? Well what do you call the 'End' point, anyway? How do you even know when you've finally come to 'The End'? Suffice to say its at least a Bloody Big Stop... then we'll see if that bunch of overrated Japanese pot metal can be beaten back into something that will at least make it around the block...and take it from there...

In the meantime, thank you to everyone who helped in any way with this ride. Thank you to my sponsors and those of you who helped prepare the bike. Thank you to all those people who kept in touch as I rode, and a huge thank you to all those people I met along the way. Thank you to those of you who shared their food and shelter and help and advice. Thanks to those who shared laughs and miles as we traveled, and those of you who gave me the energy and inspiration to do it in the first place, to keep on going when problems came up and the chips were down, and to make it all the way.

Sometime soon you'll be able to read all about this journey of mine, and see the pics, I swear... hey patience is a virtue, right? Rich (Actually, very NOT, but damn happy anyway...) Stay tuned..."

Wow - we've hit over 200 Communities in 61 countries! A big thanks to all those who took the first step and established the Community in their area. New Communities are Leon, Mexico; Linkoping, Sweden; Gorey Co. Wexford, Ireland; Arroyo Grande, California, USA.

For details on how you can join, or use the Community to get information and help, or just meet people on the road or at home, go to the Community page. Send me some photos - with captions please - and a little text and you can have a web page about your Community! A few links to web pages about your area would be useful too.

Just a reminder to all, when you JOIN a Community in your area, send a note to the Community introducing yourself and suggesting a meeting for a beer or a ride or something. It's a good way of meeting like-minded individuals in your own town.

Support the Horizons Unlimited E-zine - check out the HU Souk for fleece vests and jumpers / pullovers, t-shirts, hats and other products with the new logo and a variety of slogans! Just in time for Christmas presents for your favourite motorcycle traveller!

Thanks! Grant and Susan

Please recommend

Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine
to a friend! Just forward it to them, or send them the link to the newsletter on the website.

I am working on a listing of people who have ridden around the world, as well as what I call 'significant journeys' e.g. the first across Africa. Any information you may have on this topic, please let me know. Preferably e-mail me direct. I currently have information on over 100 world travellers listed, but there are many more. See Bernd Tesch's page for more. Bernd lists around 245 long distance travellers. And there's at least 30 enroute to an around the world. Have YOU done it? Let me know!

We hope you've enjoyed this issue, and do please let us know your thoughts. It's your newsletter, so tell us what you want to know about!

It is not the unknown, but the fear of it, that prevents us from doing what we want...

Grant and Susan Johnson

Live the dream! at:
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

All text and photographs are copyright © Grant and Susan Johnson and their respective authors or creators, 1987-2003.
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