Horizons Unlimited
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Are you a TRAVELLER? Are you interested in dodging land mines and bike-eating alligators in Cambodia, staying one step ahead of the law in Argentina, riding sans convoy in Kenya, awaiting extinction in Bangkok, the killing valley in Laos, detours in muddy rivers in Peru, a visit to Vietnam, Anaconda adventures in Brazil, Damascus sweets, Nepali jazz festivals, and much more...?

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Welcome to the 42nd Edition of the Horizons Unlimited E-zine. This month brings terrible news of war in Iraq, and increasing unrest in the Muslim world. We are saddened by the loss of life, and hope for a swift end to the conflict. We are anxious for the safety of travellers already in the Middle East and North Africa.

We know people are using the HUBB to post inquiries and news about political and military events in these volatile areas, and also to find alternative routes. Also remember to check the Safety section of the site. See the page of advice for overseas travellers.

A very important resource for travellers is the worldwide Motorcycle Travellers Community. There are over 215 individual Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers Communities in 63 countries who are willing to help travellers on the road. Communities in Asia, the Middle East and Africa include:

Egypt - Alexandria and Cairo
India - Bangalore, Goa, Mumbai and Chennai
Indonesia - Bali
Iran - Tehran
Israel
Malaysia - Butterworth and Kuala Lumpur
Mongolia - Ulaanbaatar
Pakistan - Islamabad
Russia - Moscow, Novosibirsk, and Orel (Orlovsk Province)
Saudi Arabia - Al-Khobar
Senegal - Dakar
South Africa - Cape Town and Johannesburg
Tanzania - Morogoro
Thailand - Bangkok
Turkey - Ankara, Bodrum, Istanbul and Trabzon
Ukraine - Odessa
United Arab Emirates - Dubai
Vietnam - Saigon

To contact a community for information or assistance, go to the Community contact page and follow the instructions. Please make your queries as specific as possible, and remember all these folks are volunteers.

Ride safely, and if you're in a volatile area, PLEASE keep in touch with us regularly so we know and can pass the word to the motorcycling community that you're safe.

And finally, we hope that all of you, at home and abroad, will strive to act as ambassadors of the worldwide community of motorcycle travellers, and to demonstrate how tolerant and compassionate you can be during these difficult times. Perhaps we can transcend national and religious differences and remember we're all human beings inhabiting the same beautiful planet.

Travellers missing in Algeria

If you haven't been following the posts on the HUBB, there are currently at least eleven travellers missing in Algeria. Most are 4wd travellers, but several bikes as well. Since approximately 21 February, several independent groups of travellers have gone missing. Algerian authorities and several search groups are looking for them, but there has been no confirmed word as to their whereabouts at this time, despite mostly being on easy routes.

If you have been or are in the area, please check out this link and this link for more details, you may have some valuable information. Otherwise, please check it out anyway to see how you can help support the search effort. Also see Chris Scott's Sahara Overland site for more.

Note that because of this situation we cannot recommend any travel in Algeria at this time.

Horizons Unlimited Travellers Meetings 2003 - time to plan ahead!

A good way to meet new friends and fellow travellers is at one of the many HU Travellers Meetings planned for this year. We have organizers busy and dates set for the following:

Australia - 25-27 April 2003 - Ulmarra, 12kms out of Grafton, NSW. This is shaping up to be a great event - if you're anywhere near the area, or will be, you do want to be part of the fun! Details and registration here.

UK - 27-29 June 2003 - 3rd Annual Meeting - Chris Bright and Glynn Roberts are organizing this again at the Black Horse Inn in Somercotes, same location as last year. The UK meeting last year brought together over 100 travellers from the UK and Europe, and was the highlight of the motorcycle travellers social season. Registration has already begun and numbers will be limited. If you'd like to present a slide show or put on a talk for the UK 2003 event, please let us know.

Portugal - 11-13 July 2003 - 1st Annual European Meeting - Goncalo Pais is organizing this event in Budens, in the south-western point of Portugal. Contact or me if you would like to assist in Portugal, or can be there and would like to put on a slide show.

Mexico - Oct. 31-Nov 2 2003 - Juan Carlos and Gerardo Ibarra are organizing this event, in Copper Canyon. If you'd like to present a slide show or put on a talk for the Mexico 2003 event, please let us know.

Bolivia - Nov. 8 2003 - Frank and Ann Schwarzbauer are organizing this event in La Paz. Details on Frank's page. If you'd like to present a slide show or put on a talk for the Bolivia 2003 event, please let us know.

Argentina - Tentatively planned for Viedma late November. If you'd like to help out, please let us know or contact Oscar Knecht.

New Zealand - 2004 - Nigel Marx is organizing this, tentatively in Christchurch. If you'd like to help out, please let us know or contact Nigel.

Thanks to all the volunteers! We still need volunteers to organize events in eastern US/Canada (hopefully this will be the first of many) and a 2nd Annual western US/Canada travellers meeting this summer. We have a lot of HU Communities in the US and Canada, so who wants to host a travellers meeting? Let us know what you think - we'll do all we can to support you and your Community. It's really not that hard, and it's a lot of fun!

So mark your calendars for at least one of these events. This is your chance to meet your fellow travellers, share adventures and travel tips, and incidentally to help support your favourite website, namely us! We are going to try very hard to be at as many of the meetings as possible ourselves, so we hope to see you there!

Please submit news reports, web links etc. to us for inclusion in this newsletter.

We try to link to your website if you have one. And if you don't have a website, we can help.

This newsletter is provided as a complimentary service for travellers everywhere, both on the road and (temporarily;-) off. Your support is greatly appreciated.

your editors, Grant and Susan Johnson, (about us, contact us)

 

Arno Backes and Sian Mackenzie, Germany and UK, Australia via USA to South America, in Chile and Argentina, on BMW R100GS PD and Yamaha XT600E,

"Had to cross a rickety wooden bridge, after which the road turned uphill and was strewn with football sized rocks. Arno went ahead and blasted up, I almost made it but dumped the bike. Yuki and I were in the middle of picking up the bike when Arno came sprinting back down the hill with 5 guys hot on his heels. Arno had abandoned his bike outside the police station and ran back to see how I was doing and the police - being the suspicious sort - had followed.

The bike was soon upright and Arno took it up the hill, followed by Yuki. I followed on foot with the 5 policemen who bombarded me with questions, first finding out if I was ok, then the usual, who, where, how and why questions.

Arno riding near the village of La Balsa

... From Puerto Natales we rode to Punta Delgada, where we hoped the ferry was running. We got there to find 2 other riders already waiting, Peter from Switzerland on a Teneré and Yonni from Israel on a DR he'd bought in Buenos Aires. The ferry soon arrived and the 5 of us were on the island of Tierra del Fuego almost before we had paid for our tickets.

The road was tarmac and brand new, still being built in fact. However construction had only progressed 20kms or so and then it was back to dirt. The road wasn't too bad, a few dodgy places but we were able to speed along at 70kmh or so... The five of us made it down to the end of Ruta 3, in the National Park for the obligatory photo. It took awhile for everyone to pose with their bikes, by which time the rain stopped and the sun came out, so we rode to Laguna Verde and spent the afternoon lounging in the sunshine planning our next moves. We left 'the end of the world' in the company of Dieter, another Swiss rider, the others we hoped to meet up with somewhere along Ruta 40. Was a beautiful day for riding and we made good time despite stopping to take photos at every opportunity.

International group at the end of the road. Peter, Yonni, Yuki, Arno, Sian.

... We finally reached El Calafate and whom should we bump into, Asher. He and Arne Bomblies were staying at the same place, so we headed there too. Was nice to meet Arne as we had emailed a couple of times. Yuki and Rodi also turned up, and so we planned to ride together, to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares when the weather improved."

For more stories, check out Arno and Sian's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Cliff and Jenny Batley, UK, UK to New Zealand, in New Zealand,

"We sent the bikes via aeroplane from Singapore to Auckland - although it cost us around £600 more than sending by sea it saved 2-3 weeks waiting for the bikes to arrive in New Zealand. The whole process was really easy - we even got a whole aircraft container thing to ourselves so there was loads of space for our gear - and no need to crate the bikes up so it was much quicker. All in all about 3 hours from arriving at the airport and the bikes were packed. We flew in the same aeroplane so we all landed together. After getting out of the airport we went directly to customs / cargo to see where the bikes were. Although we could not take them away then as we needed to get customs to stamp our documents we did manage to get the MAF (Ministry of Agriculture and something) to look them over and pass them as safe to enter NZ (foot and mouth stuff). This proved a lot easier than we expected - the worst that could happen was the bikes would need to be fumigated - but MAF simply looked them over and declared them clean enough - so all our hard work in Singapore scrubbing them paid off. Customs could not have been simpler - we arrived at the offices (about 5km from the airport) and they stamped our Carnets in about 10 minutes - they did not even see the bikes!

... Our first stop was at Waitomo caves - these are full of glow-worms and amazing to see in the dark. We had decided that the Flying Fox was a good place to stay and off we went looking for it - however, we did not read the information too well and did not realise that it was on the other side of the river and only accessible by a cable car setup across the river. No way to get the bikes there. We backtracked down the road to a sign we noticed earlier for camping and at one of the free campsites that the NZ government kindly provides. There is running water and a toilet - nothing else.

Lake Hawea

From here we went straight for Wellington to catch the ferry to the South Island. A quick stopover in Picton and off for Collingwood on the very Northwest tip of the Island. However, our first roadside breakdown occurred. The inlet manifold rubber split on Jenny's bike - after super-gluing it back together we decided just to get to Nelson and try and find out if we could get the part in NZ. There were actually 7 in stock in the country so the dealer got one for the next morning. We made it the next day to Collingwood and Farewell Spit - a small thin strip of rocks / sand.

Cliff and Jenny chilling in New Zealand

Coming down the West coast we stopped at Westport with a seal colony nearby - there were loads of them all sunning themselves on the rocks, the youngsters playing in the sea. It was amazing to see them swimming in such strong waves - the white surf created by the waves never seeming to calm. From Westport to the Franz Joseph Glacier. It seems to defy logic that there can be a huge glacier that comes down to 250m above sea level - surely it should have melted much sooner. The plus side is that as it is so low you can climb onto it and up it. We booked our full day trek in the hope that we would be able to cope with the climb. On went the ice spikes onto our boots and up we went. We made it without any major hassle although a few aching limbs the next day."

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Frank Schellenberg, Netherlands, to South Africa, in Ethiopia

"I rode in one day to the customs town in Ethiopia, sleeping in the customs house there and trying the local food called Njera and only paying 1 us Dollar to get the bike in, I like this country. Today I drove to only Gonder as after 30 km's I caught up with Tour d'Afrique, some cycle tour I heard of in Cairo meeting one of the truck drivers. They are cycling from Cairo to Cape Town in 100 days. I joined them for the day and night celebrating one of the cyclists 40th birthday.

Arriving in Addis at the brothel and Backpackers place called Bell Air. I met Iris and Florian including same 3 Dutch couples with cars including Bert and Francoise who I met in Dahab. Iris, Florian and I agreed to travel together for awhile so off we went and after 60 km my glued valve cover broke making me lose a nice spray of oil. We pulled over at a hotel, had lunch and had a look at what to do. Behind the hotel the three best fabricators of Ethiopia were working and reproduced a valve cover with the piece from the Merkato. Afterwards I wanted to give them 10 birr each and they said no to it. Send us the picture you just took... This was magic!

Iris and Florian crossing a busy riverbed

We drove more down south staying a few nights in Arba Minch watching the big crocs there and losing the way on our go to Yavello. Which made us drive through some of the most unspoiled countryside of Ethiopia where some even run away as a whiteface asked them for the way! One problem was we did not fill up (STUPID) as it was only a 150 km to Yavello. 20km before the petrol station mine gave up but Florian and Iris had enough giving me a liter... I felt so stupid! I even read Chris Scott's book, AMH, which tells you to always fill up even if you only drove 20kms.

Ed. comment: also see our Rules of the Road!

We slept in the little town of Agre Marjam and set off to Kenya the next morning.

A good part of the Moyale - Marsabit road, Iris and Florian trying it out

We crossed the borders without many hassles and started on the most dangerous part of the trip. As there is no convoy anymore we left alone, as the trucks nowadays don't go via Marsabit but via Wajir. They call it a road and it is the transit route to Ethiopia, but you can hardly call the football-sized boulders a road!

The tribes people of the Marsabit area

We arrived in Marsabit in time but tired, and stayed in a mission, got some cash the next day and only drove 100kms to Laisamis as we started late. From Laisamis we made it to Maralal out of the danger zone apparently. Tarmac again to Mweiga but nice and interesting views so worth it.

And from Mweiga I tried to cross the Arbedele National Park to Hell's Gate NP, as there is a road through the park that is a 'main' road, but they would not let me. So I drove around, and as I was on my way south I decided to skip Hell's Gate now and go to Nairobi to have a check up in the Hospital as since I entered Kenya I have severe abdominal Cramps and the running waters. So here I am... In the last days I crossed the equator 5 times, passed the planned halfway route! 13,000km and having loads of fun! "

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Ted Simon and Malu Sierra, UK/USA and Chile, "Jupiter's Travels," around the world, again, in Nepal, R80GS Basic,

"Malu made friends with a tiny, beautiful and intelligent Nepali girl called Rita, who sells embroidered bags in Durbar Square, and she became our unofficial guide. There was a huge Hindu event at the Pushpatinath temple while we there, with 300,000 devotees and Saddhus coming from all over India. Somehow Rita managed to steer us through immense crowds and past a queue of the faithful several kilometres long, all patiently waiting to file through the temple where only Hindus are allowed to enter.

For once I was happy to be excluded. Instead we finished up amongst the Saddhus who were enjoying the hot sun on their ash-covered bodies, while priests tended the shrines that lined the outer ramparts of the temple. The scent of marijuana smoke drifted through the air, and altogether it was a remarkable experience.

Saddhus are very proud of the fact that they don't need food or clothing to survive. Only marijuana. Well, that's what one of them told the press here.

... Travelling in company is so different. Even the most simple things, like choosing a hotel, have to be handled in another way. As far as I can I try to treat this as Malu's show, and her method has been to accept almost always the first offer that comes along. To my amazement, it seems to work very well. We had hardly got here before a fellow dashed up with all the usual promises of a wonderful hotel, where everybody goes, with garden, hot water, very cheap, you will love it, etc, etc. So Malu says, why not? And so, with hundreds of others to choose from, we go straight to the Butterfly Lodge, and it is everything the guy says it is.

There was also a bunch of jazz musicians hanging out in the garden of the Butterfly Lodge. (More marijuana). They were there for Jazzmandu, a Nepali jazz festival (can you believe that?) and it all made for a very happy atmosphere. While they smoked and drank I took my carburetors apart for the second time, and adjusted my valve clearances, and prayed to the motorcycle god for a smoother ride into India.

In Bangkok Malu caught sight of a blue wig, and she's been dying to wear it ever since. Why today was the day I don't know, but here we are leaving the Butterfly.

... We left Pokhara today on our way to India. It meant going halfway back to Kathmandu before striking south, but it wasn't so bad despite hundreds of Indian buses and trucks struggling up hill. From Mughli the road goes high over a quite impressive gorge, before coming down into what is really India. First you see the monkeys by the roadside, and you feel the difference immediately, in the heat, the crowds, and the traffic in the towns."

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Didier Martin, France / Australia around the world for World Vision, in Jordan and Syria, F650GS,

"Petra, the rose-red city they call it, is hidden amongst the ancient canyons of Jordan and is the most mystic and glorious treasure of the country. Carved entirely into the naturally pink rocks, the remains of the once lost Nabataean city of Petra include temples, Roman theatres, monasteries, houses and roads. Petra was lost to the outside world for some 700 years before its rediscovery in the 19th century.

As I walked in, a track guided me down to the Siq, the narrow gorge that takes you into Petra. It's 1.2km long and acts as a dramatic entry to the city. The Siq often narrows to about 5m and the walls tower up to 200m overhead. Then it opens on the treasury which is carved out of the solid, iron-laden sandstone (pictured). It was served as a tomb for a Mabataean king. Beyond that is the astonishing monument that dominates Petra. I spent the whole afternoon wandering around this magic place, meeting Bedouin but no tourists. On normal time, the place can have up to 3000 visitors per day; today only 15 bought a ticket.

... I arrived at the Syrian border at 2pm and started with the immigration. I could not believe the Jordanian officer when he told me that I had overstayed in Jordan and that I had to pay US$16. I explained to him that I had entered Jordan on the 11th at 7pm and today was the 14th, so that was exactly 3 days. His response was that it was 4 days, the 11th, 12th, 13th and 14th. I tried to explain to him his mistake but he refused to listen. I know by now that if an officer at a border tells you that snow is black you have to agree with him right or wrong (he probably was the same guy that named the Red Sea), so I paid my $16 and shut up. On the Syrian border, things went very quickly. I was told to pay US$40 and that would cover everything, 30 for insurance and 10 for paper work. I paid without question and was on my way to Damascus.

For the people who know me well I am happy to report that I was back on my normal diet of pastries, cakes and ice creams, while in Damascus anyway. There, you can find the finest oriental pastries in the world; I also came across an ice cream shop that makes what they call Arabic ice cream. It is basically a milk ice cream without any flavour. They serve it in a cone and cover it with fresh roasted pistachio for only 50c. I had to restrain myself from eating them for breakfast, lunch and dinner. An absolute delight after what I have been eating lately.

19 March - It rained all night and I was not looking forward to today's ride. I left at 8am and it was kind of fine but that did not last, after one hour it started to rain again and the wind got worse. I got very wet and decided to stop for the day in Hama, a small town 130km from the Turkish border. I got a very nice room for a couple of dollars with clean sheets and a TV. I was able to watch the BBC news which told me all the latest news from the imminent war, inevitable I'm afraid. So, with only a few hours before the dateline, I will sign off. If the rain eases off tomorrow I will cross into Turkey, if not then the next day."

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Ricardo Rocco Paz, Ecuador, "Around the World for Peace," in Peru,

"... After dinner, at the Norton's Bar, we meet two motorcyclists from Canada and the United States. The first one had serious problems to get to Cuzco in his BMW. He tells me that the bridge over the Urubamba river has been destroyed by last week's heavy rains and that he had to transport his heavy motorcycle on a truck to be able to overcome the detour, constituted by a muddy mountain road. The second rider says that he burned off the clutch of his BMW bike in the same section. Both conclude that with my KLR, being less heavy and more suitable for this kind of roads, I have a good chance of overcoming this sinuous and steep muddy road. They better be right!

Today's aim is to get to Lima to celebrate, in a decent way, my 44th birthday. It will not be an easy task, from Cuzco to Lima it's nearly 900 tortuous kilometers, overcoming several high steps mountain passes, that in this time of year, have an unpredictable enough climate. The rest will be the on the heavily trafficked Pan-American highway that follows the Pacific Ocean coast, in long straights that alternate with sinuous sections that edge the deep cliffs, winding among enormous sand dunes.

... I continue descending towards the bridge, with a full belly and renewed energy, but the butterflies continue fluttering happily in my gut. The asphalted surface is interrupted and a dirt sideway must be approached. The detour sinks towards the deep bed of a creek, its chocolate brown waters presaging mud in big quantities. Before sinking in the muddy riverbed, I think about it twice, but I don't have alternative, it's this or return to Cuzco and the much longer ride down to Arequipa to get to Lima. Ushuaia shares my worry, since she wants to quit out and forces me to accelerate her hardly enough in order to overcome the deep muddy waters. We go out towards a small bridge and to a pronounced uphill from where the muddy water descends in streams. The motorcycle tosses and slides but her powerful engine pulls us up the climb towards more mud and rocks. A slow light truck doesn't let me pass, even if I apply an overdose of horn. Finally, the driver goes aside and I can get to the top of the hill. There, I meet another medium size truck caught in a swampy quagmire. I manage to ride through the small space left by the stuck vehicle and ride on, sliding in about every maneuver, finally, after a long rocky downhill, the bloody mud disappears and the blessed asphalt appears. I'm sweating, but feel a big relief of having overcome without a fall this muddy detour!

... The high plateau spreads, magnificently, filling all the horizons, finished off by bare blackish summits. In all directions, dark clouds presage rainy weather, but on this spot of the highway, the Sun shines intensely, slipping past loaded clouds. I advance at full speed in a straight line while I wonder how long my good luck, of avoiding the rain, is going to last. The response comes to me in the shape of thick rain drops that throb on top of my helmet, as preventive little punches."

Ed. Happy Birthday Ricardo, even if you didn't get to Lima to celebrate it!

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Gregory Frazier, USA, relaxing in Laos, Yamaha,

"Leaving the 'Land of Smiles' (Thailand) to ride the jungles of Laos just across the Mekong River was not easy. From Chiang Khong I paid $12.00 for a motorized canoe and six men to lift my bike in, then out again once we crossed the Mekong River to the Laos side. Water filled the leaking boat faster than the owner and I could bail. His solution was to speed across the river to the opposite side before the boat submarined.

Left photo - The bottom of the canoe had holes big enough to stick a finger through. When I asked why it did not sink, the owner told me he pulled it up on the beach when it was not in use. Upon inspection, the holes looked more like bullet holes rather than rot.

Right photo - I would not want to try this tire change on a Gold Wing. With 95-degree humidity and heat, the only water was my own sweat. No roadside assistance plan from AAA was going to answer my call for help, and I was entertainment to the passing buses and trucks as they covered me in dust.

Hiekel and I were both aware that days before a bus had been shot up and grenaded on the road ahead of us. Two Swiss bicycle riders peddled into the mess before the guerrillas or bandits finished their business, and they too were killed.

... As we sat on the top of the mountain and looked down into the free-fire zone of the valley of killings we had to pass through below, Hiekel smiled over at me and said, 'Let's go ride the gauntlet.' As he pulled out in front of me I wondered why there are not more wonderfully foolish men like him riding motorcycles around the world. Then I realized he had probably never been shot at, robbed at gun point, or bleeding by the side of the road wondering who would come along and save him or strip off his clothes to try and get the dying quivers on him like happened to me in the jungle of Brazil. I smiled, blessed his adventure virginity, and my knowledge that he made a much bigger target in his red jacket on a huge motorcycle than did I on my Yamaha in hard-to-see black shirt and pants.

I stopped in this village to take a photo of the houses. The only 'friendly' that came out to meet me was the child. I took a few photos, then noticed I was being watched by two male villagers back in the trees, both with rifles. I quickly got back on my motorcycle and rode away, zigzagging out of town.

Over the next 100 miles we saw 40-50 men carrying guns, mostly AK-47s. Some were in military camouflage clothing while others wore nothing more than a pair of thongs and ragged pants. It was unclear if the latter were good guys or bad, but most seemed only interested in the size of our motorcycles. Once a rifle came off a shoulder as we rode by, but that was to shift its weight to the other shoulder. One suspicious looking burned place on the side of the road could have been where the bus and the Swiss were shot up. Broken glass and charred pavement, with some torn clothing and a child's stuffed animal, seemed to point at more than a rest stop. As I passed I thought about the two Swiss bicyclists who had been killed as they rode up on the site. Bad joss for them that day. Peddling a little slower off the mountain for two or three minutes would have saved their lives, as would have staying home or sleeping later that morning. For them it was the wrong time to be in that place."

Simon McCarthy and Georgie Simmonds, UK to Asia, in Thailand, BMW R100GS,

"Early morning Bangkok was an unfamiliar world full of buzzing markets, uncontrolled traffic and lots of street food. The people were smiley and the temples were gaudy. The girls were pretty and gave 'come hither' smiles. It was already 30 degrees with 100% humidity, and we were eating red curry for breakfast, for 50 cents each. We were back in Asia again.

How many men does it take to...

... Getting the bike was a 2 day procedure. Highlights include spending another $50 on various charges, getting to the warehouse about 30kms outside town too late and having to go back the next day. Me forgetting the delivery note on day 2 and Georgie finding her way to the warehouse (4 buses and a hitched lift without a map) to find me. 5 hours clearing customs, a 2 page essay in my passport telling me I'd be fined and imprisoned forever if I didn't take my smelly bike with me when I left. Bike lost in warehouse, bike found. 2 workers required to rip the crate apart for me, 20 workers required to watch me put the bike together.

And into the Friday night Bangkok rush-hour. A minor nightmare, but not as frightening as similar in London, Istanbul or Moscow. We felt like a fat bloke going pot-holing (caving). As we entered Bangkok the roads got narrower, the traffic heavier and the traffic lights more numerous. Three lanes became two and the gaps we were squeezing the (fully laden) bike through got narrower. Then we'd get stuck - too wide to wheedle through the gaps, stuck down a cave until we could lose some weight. Then eventually the lights would change and the cars that surrounded us would unjam and we'd roar and wheedle through to the next choke point, where we'd get stuck again. The local bikes by contrast were small, light and narrow, many with their handlebars turned in and few with mirrors. We were a fat badger down a termite nest, awaiting extinction.

Lost my bike in the river again

... Mopeds in Thailand... the common person's wheels. Everybody seems to have one, or access to one. Typically 4 Thais can sit comfortably on a bike, and we've frequently seen 6-up. We saw 2 women and 2 kids on one bike and one of the women (thankfully the passenger) breastfeeding one of the kids as they went along. Many of the mopeds have been turned into mobile food wagons care of a bodged-on sidecar, hotplate (gas or charcoal), 4 metre diameter umbrella. Completely amazing and a testament to the strength of the bikes' frames and wheels. If a Thai were to grow legs long enough to ride our BMW he could probably use it as a bus or a supermarket.

... Still surviving and in Laos. The bike's right cylinder is only held on with 3 studs and we've been doing crazy stuff like taking it across rivers on canoes, but we're still going!"

For more stories, check out Simon and Georgie's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Geoff van de Merwe, South Africa, UK to SA, in Egypt, Yamaha Tenere,

"March 20, 2003 - I am currently in Alexandria, having come solo by bike through Libya and have had nothing but friendliness and hospitality from everyone. W.R.T the current situation and the riots in Cairo, I have been advised to stay out for tomorrow, being the day of prayer, but after that, not to worry. (This coming from a police station commander). His opinion has been backed up by 3 or 4 others as well.

March 23, 2003 - I am now in Cairo. Although I feel uncomfortable, probably because I can't understand Arabic, everything appears relatively safe. I have had a few dark looks but on the whole, people have still been friendly.

I am wearing an identifier to South Africa all the time, my SA Rugby Jersey, and a lapel badge for my jacket, which seems to help.

The security here is extremely tight at the moment. I spoke to a Kiwi bloke yesterday who was here over the last few days. He said it has been uncomfortable, he came across roaming groups of demonstrators every now and then, but he reckons the threat is more perceived than real."

Pan-American 2002, Fabien Mirabaud, Thomas Girodot and Aurélien Chardeau, France, NY to Tierra del Fuego, in Argentina, Honda Transalps,

"In Coihaique, we meet a family of motorcyclists. Incredible but true. In the family, one is born with a motor bike in the hand! A family composed of 6 teenagers of 14 to 19 years launches out on this slipping track, at any speed, with the powerful enduro motor bikes. The father follows with a Tenere. And following behind is the mom, facing the rain, mud and the cold, in 4x4 with a trailer. It is the technical aid.

We are very jealous. Would the moms Chardeau, Girodot and Mirabaud have done as much? We will not answer.

...only when one has the hands freeze... all is damp and that one sees a mom all warm leaving the car with a hot thermos flask of tea and biscuits... one thinks that one could have tried to have our assistance team with us (but from time to time only!) The road is difficult. Mud, gravels, rivers... It rains.

Attention is paid, but we are not has the shelter of the accident... which ends up arriving... The road is firm, one rolls quiet, around 70 or 80km/h. Suddenly, the road is transformed into deep sand and very very "soft"?? Aurelio falls. Tom and Fabio come behind, and watch the event! Tom holds the road, but the miracle does not go for Fabien who falls in his turn. A game of bowling... No damage fortunately.

We preceded the family of Chilean motorcyclists, and before they arrive we make them large signs to slow down! To two on one 450, at 80 km/h... does not hardly have a chance... The spectacle of three French agitating their arm in all directions with their motor bikes strewn on the ground makes them slow down. One avoids the pile-up!

Finally, to our greater happiness, we arrive on firm ground: asphalt, we like... Such of the heroes of Camel Trophy, we pose with our Chilean colleagues for a photograph of shock: on the whole, nearly 10 motor bikes align one after the other with their pilots. True Heros! True Heros of modern times, which did not finish suffering...

At the doors of Patagonia, there remains still a long, testing part physically, as morally... and also for the motor bikes which will go back from there with difficulty.

...Next wonder to see: the Chilean park of Torres del Paine. We always move to the South and when we look at a large scale chart, we remain surprised to see we are not close to the goal... so much in the South!

latest news: Ushuaia, mission accomplished! New-York - Ushuaia : 21.881 km!"

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Maarten Munnik, Netherlands, around the world, in Laos, Cambodia and Thailand, Honda Africa Twin,

"Entering Laos took less then 20 minutes... they did not even fill in the carnet. Just stamped it. Unfortunately there had been an incident on highway 13 up north (13 people got shot). So I decided to go south instead, straight to Vietnam. Well, what can I say? Vietnam was nice, for as long as it lasted. How long? Ohhh about 5 minutes before they kicked my ass back to Laos. I guess the door is tightly shut... too bad. Well, plenty of other countries to visit.

Of course I had a backup-plan... I would cross down to Cambodia on route 88 (kind of like route 66, but then shorter ;-) a 300 km 'road' from route 8 to the south. Would be great fun... if it had not started to rain the night before (why does this always happen to me???)

'What do you mean, I am on your road?? And what are you doing in my bathroom??'

So, there I was, 20 km down route 88... with my butt in the mud... Yep, Pam (my bike) and I looked like a pair of mud-wrestlers... But when the going gets tough.... ehhhhh, like a man has got to do what a man has got to do.... and ... well, quoting clichés is easy... driving a fully loaded Africa twin (on trailwing's. duh!) through a muddy trail which would give a 4X4 a cold shiver down his (or hers) back.... No way. I know when I am beaten, and what's more, I hate to fall (face down) in the mud ;-) So I turned back, and used the back-up-back-up-plan. Just drive back to Highway 13 and follow that one south. Ohhh did the tarmac feel good ;-)

So after a little while (3 day's) I ended up at the Cambodian border. Well, border... It was a little bamboo-hut on the side of a small forest-path... At the Cambodian side they did not know what a carnet is (fine by me), and for stamping my passport they politely requested 10 dollars... which I politely refused to pay. When the guy said 'it's for our service' I answered 'What service, I did not even get coffee.' This seemed to do the trick, because very confused the man told me I could drive on... Ahhh well, if it works for them... it works for me ;-)

Two-wheeled truck in Cambodia

The road to Tsung Trem (excuse my spelling) was fun... a bit like a roller coaster... or a yo-yo... up-down-up-down.... No mud, so I was happy... well... except for the soft-sand-stretches. A few times I almost fell down, which made me think: 'This is what will happen; I will lose control, fall off the bike, roll off the road, hit a mine... and boom!' But it did not happen (neither the falling nor the boom).

After a while I reached a river (I think the Kong) and there was no bridge... ehhhhhh?? The road just ended there. But, luckily there was a little boat. Maybe 1 meter wide and 5 meters long... On this little boat was a rather large woman, who demanded 10 dollars to cross the river, which was maybe 100 or 150 meter wide. So of course I refused... So she sailed away... Now, this was not according to my negotiation-plan... but, just as I was planning to start to cry for help, she came back. After a long and hard negotiation, the price was settled at 7 dollars. But this included putting the bike on and off the boat.

So, I had to take off all the luggage, and this was put into the boat. Then a small and very thin plank was put from the ground to the point of the boat, and I had to roll my dear Pam onto the point (deck) of the boat. It was the most scary thing I have ever done. I had visions of my dear Pam tumbling overboard and sinking in the deep deep river (in my vision the river was at least 500 meters deep and swarming with bike-eating alligators... luckily this was only my vision, but it was still deep). When the boat had to turn a bit, a few people had to lean to one side to keep everything straight up, and all this time I was sitting (well, standing) on the bike, being scared. The moment we hit the other side I started and drove off to solid ground... phew. Strangely I was happy to pay her the 7 dollars.

... Back to Bangkok to celebrate my 40th birthday with my own angel - Tip. It was a nice arrival at the bamboo-guest house, especially because Enio (Italian, driving a Transalp around the world for the last 6 years), Ralf and Caroline (Germany, driving two Transalps from Australia to Germany for the last 2 years) and Jason (English, driving a BMW around the world for the last 4 years) welcomed me in their middle.

Later that day Katharine (Germany, driving a Suzuki DR380 around the world for the last half year) joined us... And in the evening Tip appeared. All was set for a good birthday-dinner. Life begins at 40 they say... well... Let the fun begin!"

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Tiffany Coates, UK, Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia, in Brazil, R80G/S,

"February had seen me heading back to the warmth of the north from Ushuaia. I then had some mechanical problems in Cordoba - thanks to an excellent mechanic there, I was on my way again after 8 days - yes, I know those techies out there amongst you want the details, errr, well I never use the correct terms though I sort of know what I'm talking about (I think) and two engine studs had needed to be heli-coiled and the rocker arm was broken - poor Thelma.

The delay meant that once I left Cordoba, I had to race to Sao Paulo in Brazil in 3 days, and as usual I was not going the most direct route as I had a yearning to go via Asuncion - ever since a childhood game I have wanted to go there. This was followed by a dash across Paraguay, doing a runner at every police checkpoint on the way.

I reached Sao Paulo in time to collect my sister and nephew from the Airport and after a couple of run-ins with the local police - NOT my fault I was eventually able to leave Thelma in a storage garage while I have been exploring the southern part of Brazil by bus. The excitement I am missing by not being on a bike is more than matched by the thrill of attempting to catch alligators with lassoes and holding a three metre long anaconda.

Now I am on my way back to Sao Paulo and will be reunited with Thelma shortly. Back to my biking adventures next month..."

For more stories, check out Tiffany's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Away From My Desk: A Round-the-World Detour from the Rat Race, the Tech Wreck, and the Traffic Jam of Life in America,
by Rif K. Haffar

"Former telecommunications executive Haffar treats readers to a whirlwind tour of 45 countries spanning six continents in this sometimes funny, often sarcastic account of an unusual trip around the world. Haffar's yearlong excursion by air, motorcycle, camel, and elephant bears little resemblance to the usual package deal offered to tourists with money to burn." Editorial reviews - Amazon.com

"A refreshingly practical travel guide that is not encumbered by political correctness. I found it to be very funny and easy to read even if you're not planning to travel." Amazon.com reader reviews

Looking for a travel book for someone special? Go to our Books pages, where we have listed some of the best motorcycle travel books, as well as a number of BMW books, general motorcycle books, and travel guides.

There's links to Amazon USA, Amazon UK, Amazon Canada, and Amazon Deutschland, so no matter where you are - you can order books at great prices, and we'll make a dollar or a pound or a Euro, which goes a very little way to supporting this e-zine.

There's also links to search Amazon sites for all their products, books, CDs etc., and yes, we get a tiny piece of that too. We really appreciate it when you start your book search from our website! Thanks for the support!

Book suggestions please!

If you have a book or want a book that you think other travellers would be interested in please let me know and I'll put it on the site. Thanks, Grant

In Tennessee, a guy sees a sign in front of a house: "Talking Dog for Sale."

He rings the bell and the owner tells him the dog is in the backyard.

The guy goes into the backyard and sees a black mutt just sitting there.

"You talk?" he asks.

"Yep," the mutt replies.

"So, what's your story?"

The mutt looks up and says, "Well, I discovered this gift pretty young and I wanted to help the government, so I told the CIA about my gift, and in no time they had me jetting from country to country to country, sitting in rooms with spies and world leaders, because no one figured that a dog would be eavesdropping. I was one of CIA's most valuable spies eight years running. But the jetting around really tired me out, and I knew I wasn't getting any younger. I wanted to settle down. So I decided to sign up for a job at the airport to do some undercover security work, mostly just wandering near to suspicious characters and listening in. I uncovered some incredible dealings there, and they awarded me a whole batch of medals. Had a wife, then a mess of puppies, and now I'm just retired,"

The guy is absolutely amazed. He goes back around the front and asks the owner how much he wants for the dog.

The owner says, "Ten dollars."

The guy says, "But this dog is amazing! Why on earth are you selling him so cheap?"

The owner replies, "Because he's a liar. He didn't do any of that shit."

"You don't have to be great to get started but you have to get started to be great."
-- Les Brown

"Little people with little minds and little imagination jog through life in little ruts, smugly resisting all changes which would jar their little worlds."
-- Marie Fraser

"In everyone's life, at some time, our inner fire goes out. It is then burst into flame by an encounter with another human being. We should all be thankful for those people who rekindle the inner spirit."
-- Albert Schweitzer

"I'm a newbie seeking info. Your site is my new reference library. Thanks!"
Debbie Baronit, Canada

"I am an 'old' biker, just will finish 51 years. Still always on the bike, except when it is snowing. Started biking in 1970, I travelled a lot, not always on motorbike (you have to be with the right woman for doing this). But I have seen most of Europe on motorcycle and Turkey, Syria. I have seen many countries in Asia on backback travels, without bike. I know also Australia and NZ, Costa Rica (work for one year), Panama, Nicaragua, Brasil. I will stop working in May this year, and I have plenty of time until... I will go on a big trip. I hope that many bikers will join. Here in Switzerland motorcycling is very popular. Regards and Have Fun. And thank you very much for setting up this wonderful homepage with lots of useful information. The best site on the web."
Alois Amrein, Zurich, Switzerland

Ed. Thanks for starting the Zurich HU Community, Alois!

"Hi, I'm planning on my rtw on a 1966 Ducati 250 single. Not leaving until Sept. 2004 though. I'm flying from California to Sydney, Australia. I sure am glad I found this site. It makes planning this trip way easier."
Chimpo13, California

"Just a note to let you know that I always like the stories in your email. Haven't traveled by bike out of North America yet but your dynamic information source is very appealing. Thanks."
Lins Robson, Canada

"I never seem to get enough time to read the ezine all at once. It is so great! You do good work! Hope you are having fun settling in your new home. Adventures come in many forms! Love and blessings, jansky of Empire, MI community"
Janice Sikorsky, Michigan

Ed. Thanks for starting the Empire HU Community, Janice!

"I must admit that I hadn't visited this web site for several weeks believing that my long standing dream of riding RTW was diminished due to my disability. But Fate? Luck? No just boredom caused me to re-visit and good old Grant has picked me up by the boot straps, turned me around and pointed me in the right direction. So it's out with the World Atlas again and start planning. A big thank you to you Grant, and when I pass your way I'll buy you a drink or two. We all know we can do things but sometimes it just takes a kick to get us going. Cheers..."
Taffytoo

"Congrats to all involved with this web site. It really is excellent, professional, comprehensive and thorough and I forsee myself browsing the winter hours here in anticipation of my four week R1150GS inspired holiday. At the moment four weeks is my limit as business is such. But I must say that I am tempted to go for the big one {round the world} maybe next year. In the meantime. Thank you."
David Burke, Galway, Ireland

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ISSN 1703-1397 Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Ezine - Copyright 1999-2003, Horizons Unlimited and Grant and Susan Johnson. All rights reserved.

REDISTRIBUTION is allowed, indeed encouraged, but other than the following requirements, only with permission. You may forward copies of the Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine by forwarding it yourself by hand. You must forward the issue in its entirety, no fee may be involved. Please suggest they Subscribe!

Legal gibberish: (particularly for those in countries that have more lawyers in one town, just for instance, New York, not to name any names, than some whole countries, as another example, Japan. Again, not naming anybody specifically you understand) Recommendations are based on positive or negative experiences of somebody, somewhere. Your mileage (kilometrage if you insist) may vary. We are not responsible in any way for any product or service mentioned, and do not warrant any such mentioned product or service, and are not responsible for any bad things that may befall you. You are responsible for yourself! Act accordingly. We check all links and information given as close as possible to publication, and all info is correct as best we can determine at that time.

A few US Motorcycle Museums, thanks to Lou Caputo, Berkeley USA

1. The Bedford Gallery at the Dean Lesher Regional Center for the Arts at 1601 Civic Drive, Walnut Creek, four blocks south of the Walnut Creek BART station. Moto exhibition, "The Wild Ones, a short history of racing motorcycles" will run from Mar. 30- June 1. For info about the exhibition.

2. Motorcycle Museum in Solvang, CA. A collection of (primarily) racing motorcycles from the fifties through the seventies with some earlier examples of vintage bikes thrown in for good measure. Open weekends but if you're there on a weekday you can call a number (posted on the door) to summon someone with a key to let you in. More info. See examples of this collection here.

3. Otis Chandler Vintage Museum in Oxnard, CA. A collection of about 50 gorgeous restorations on the upper floor of the museum. Downstairs is a collection of superb vintage autos (and stuffed animals and car sculptures). Check for dates when this museum is open. If you went to the Guggie you may have seen some of these motorcycles. More info. See examples of this collection here.

Anyone know of other good motorcycle museums? Let me know and I will set up a page for them.

Peter and Kay Forwood, Australia, around the world since 1996, in Antigua, on a Harley Davidson,

"10/3/03 'Nice bike', 'I like your bike', 'I want to buy your bike'. All called out in the Caribbean accent by people as we pass by. The roads are narrow, traffic slow and people with relaxed time on their hands watch the motorcycle pass. They have a few big bikes on the islands, sports bikes, but we haven't seen a Harley, let alone a big one covered in stickers. It draws attention here. We rode from the north to the south down the west coast road, to Roseau, the capital for some groceries and internet but by our return word had come to Portsmouth police station of a 'Big bike' and we were stopped and questioned. They thought we needed a short term registration to ride on the island, but no-one was sure and in the relaxed attitude the people here have, we were allowed to ride away, that we should return tomorrow when they would find out.

18/3/03 Left Antigua on my 50th birthday reflecting that I was 42 when we started travelling. I believe that despite the stomach sicknesses associated with travelling to poorer countries that travelling has kept us more healthy and active than if we had stayed at home. The constant change keeps the brain working and the diverse activities the body fit."

Ed. The Forwood's have been to over 125 countries in Africa, Asia, the Middle East, Europe and South America. Horizons Unlimited is proud to host their entire trip story here.

Mark Moors, USA, in Panama and Colombia,

"I stayed for two nights in David, then continued on to Panama City, the end point of my Central American leg of my trip. I went directly to the airport cargo area to get the information I needed about shipping the bike to South America. I decided to use a company called Girag, as I had heard from other people that they were very professional. They told me to come back in two days time (Saturday) and leave the bike for the flight out Monday. I also needed to book a flight on Avianca Airlines to Bogotá, Colombia, for myself. Total cost for my ticket and shipping the bike: about $500 (U.S.).

On Saturday, we drove our bikes to the cargo area, and prepared the bike for the trip (disconnect the battery, tie everything down, etc). The flight on Monday to Bogotá was uneventful, other than the nagging thought on my mind that my motorcycle was going to be badly damaged in transit. As it turns out, I had nothing to worry about. I got to the cargo terminal in Bogotá and after dealing with Colombian Customs, was taken to my moto, unmarked and ready to go. The Girag employees in Bogotá, as well as the Customs people, were incredibly helpful and friendly and this first experience with the Colombian people was to become the norm during my one week in the country."

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Lew and Achi Waterman, USA, North and South America 2001-3, in Brazil, KLR650,

"Carnaval in Rio is a 4 day competition between many samba schools, each of which parades a very loud samba band w/singers, about 8 impressively and intricately decorated theme floats and a massive number of theme costumed marching dancers for an hour and a half down the length of the 3-4 block stadium called the Sambodromo. I never saw so many beautiful women, feathers of every imaginable color, and people, also of every color, wriggling to the hot beat of samba music blaring from numerous loudspeakers all over the place, all of which lasted from 9pm until 6am. We went to the final show, which included the top 6 winners from the best schools. Despite a little rain, everyone had a very good time. It's a once in a lifetime event for us.

If we are lucky, we'll arrive in Miami April 12 with a sick KLR and about $500. Not much to last until May 3, when I will have more money in the bank. It would be a lot easier to keep on traveling, if Critter were capable. The cost of returning is the hard part. Hope Critter holds up to get us where we have to go."

Chris and Erin Ratay, USA, around the world, in Guatemala, two BMW F650s,

"Arrived in Antigua last night. We are staying at the Hotel El Pesaje, on Ave 8 sur, and calle 6 (just down from the outdoor mercado). Q25 each (US$3.30) with parking.

And even cheaper accommodation can be found if you don't mind sharing with the goats!

Going into Guatemala City tomorrow (Tues) to find tires, do an oil change, and have some parts fabricated. Broke some small bits, but nothing serious :-0 Will probably be here until Friday/Sat, then over to San Pedro, Huehuetenango, the border at La Mesilla next week, then up to Chiapas..."

Denis Dennehy , (aka Menace) Ireland, RTW 2000-2003, in Kenya on R1100GS,

"I am having difficulties (shipping out of Kenya). No point in going further north as my carnet does not include Egypt, Djibouti-Yemen doesn't look like a good idea this week, and the Saudis are not looking too positive on giving me a transit visa.

Early estimates for airfreight on my R1100GS to Amman are really high, and there is a very real prospect of disruptions and cancellations in the current environment. Sea Freight is also difficult with most shipments going up to Antwerp before they come down the other side.

I will give a full update when I get things sorted out. In the meantime, if any one has any pointers..."

Tim Corrigan, (aka rndmtim), USA, Alaska to South America, in Argentina, BMW 650 GS

"I've finally arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina in Tierra del Fuego, after 9 months traveling by motorcycle from NYC to Newfoundland to Alaska, then down through Central and South America, a total of a little over 27,000 miles. I am happy to say that Santiago (my bike) has never had any major problems - not even a flat - other than those inflicted by me in the occasional crash.

It's great to finally be here, though a little surreal since I've been thinking about this moment for the last two years as I planned this trip and then rode here. Ushuaia is a small, touristy city whose main business seems to be being the End of the World (but at least it's a little more attractive in its veneer of Alpine style than the oil drilling town of Deadhorse, Alaska on the Arctic Ocean). I seem to have missed the last opportunities for trying to get to Antarctica by a week or two, but at this point I don't really care. Tomorrow I'm taking a day trip by ferry to Puerto Williams - the real last, last southern town in South America across the Beagle Channel. Those of you marooned in the frozen northeast of the U.S. will probably be happy to know it's just as cold and rainy here - I intend to get out of here Monday before I have the chance to get snowed in. Now I just have to get home..."

Ronald Colijn, Netherlands, around the world, in Australia, Enfield Bullet,

"4.5 years, 61.000 kms, 21 countries and a lot of oil changes! I am still on the road after 'doing' Africa, Arabia, Asia and am still very much enjoying it! Just flew from KL to Perth, clearing was easy peasy with my Carnet. Only had to pay warehouse charges (76.20) that was all. People were pretty unfriendly though. Quarantine had a short look and as I cleaned the bike it was no problem! "

In response to a post on the HUBB:

"My Enfield Bullet 500cc (now do not start laughing) has lasted me 61.000 km through 25 countries the last 4 years and is still running fine. And no, I do not stay on roads and take the same rough tracks as everybody else (Northern Kenya, Kagahn Valley Pakistan, Cambodia....)

Okay I do not do 120 kph, but I want to see some of the country so do not want rush anyway. Besides that a bike like this opens doors everywhere you go. Forget all the techies, just go for it, out in the desert it does not matter if you have a BMW, Africa Twin or Enfield, you are the one who has to fix it. So just choose something you are happy and comfortable with!"

Frank Butler, Papua New Guinea, around the world in 1000 days, F650GS, in Indonesia,

"Well this is it, I am off into the sunset. I have left PNG... finally. 'Mr Beem' is shortly to be on his way to Singapore and I will meet him there at the end of April. I have just bought myself a new (second-hand) bike to get around Indonesia on. I am going to call him Hardly, because it is supposed to look like a Harley Davidson, but Hardly, the other choice was Horry as he's from China. This is a picture of the new bike - I have no idea who the girl is... honest.

... I am in Sulawesi at this red hot minute, I have left the coast and taken a ride up to the Highlands to a place called Toraja. I have spent the last two days riding around the paddy fields looking at burial sites and taking some wonderful photos. Indonesia is a cheap as chips and they are that happy to see a tourist that they bring the kids out to see you, just so they don't forget what one looks like. I will be leaving here on Saturday to catch a ferry to Borneo to see what fun I can find there. I hope that you are all well and enjoying life."

Mika Kuhn, Germany, around the world, in Argentina and Brazil, Tenere,

"From Ushuaia I made the 3000km to Azul in a few days on the good Ruta 3 north. After nearly a year it was my second visit to the 'Posta del Viajero en Moto' and Jorge (Pollo) could even remember my name. He has a lot of bike travellers staying, it is a great place to stop for a few days and have a beer or two. Of course I arrived in time for the Friday evening asado (the big BBQ) and the welcome was fantastic. But after four days I had to leave, because my schedule was tight to reach Sao Paulo, before Damaris would arrive by airplane from Switzerland.

So I had to go quite fast thru Buenos Aires, meet friends there for an evening beer, and take the ferry to Uruguay. Only two days in Uruguay - I will go back ! - before I reached the south Brazilian beaches. Yes, the girls are that beautiful and they wear next to nothing. I stayed only for a day before I decided to have a look at the German colony Blumenau. To look at house is better than to look all day at the blondes on the beach, if your girlfriend is about to arrive..."

Jo-Anne Smith, Canada, to South America, in Colombia, BMW F650,

"Buenas dias! Hello everyone, I'm in Pasto now, 2530m and it is wet. Yuck. Stay the weekend and hit the border on Monday. Only a couple of hours away. The bike was running 'funny' on the way here, like it was cold. Don't know what that is all about? Battery water level good, oil good, coolant good... Not too far from Quito, 7 hrs mas o menos."

Tim Bussey, USA, heading south..., in Guatemala, Harley-Davidson,

"I'm in Guatemala now and will be heading towards Panama around April 5th or 6th. If anyone is interested in a travel partner send me an email. I currently plan on going to Panama then depending on time may fly my bike to Quito and head south. Tim"

Ben Zack, USA, in South America, XT600,

"...have been riding an XT600 for some time in South America. I ...will soon be getting ready to do the northern boat trip through the Brazilian Amazon to Manaus."

Seamus, Ireland, UK to New Zealand, in India,

"We're in Goa at the moment and are planning to be in Nepal around the same time and shipping the bike by air to Bangkok. If you're around we could meet up and exchange gen. Cheers, Seamus"

Gideon van Oudtshoorn, South Africa, round the world, BMW R1150GS,

"On my travels I planned to visit a friend of mine in Mexico. I planned to fly the bike from Medellin in Colombia with my own contact. My friend has actually suffered a personal problem and I have to get there as soon as possible. I am currently in Nasca, Peru and will be in Quito in approx. 4 days. I know a lot of people fly their bikes from Quito but all my biker friends on the road that know this info are not on line, probably out in the sticks!! Can you help me? Names, addresses of airlines or private companies that does provide this kind of service will really help me. Looking forward to your reply."

Ed. I gave Gideon all the info we have, it should be enough to get him in the air.

Kemal Altay, Turkey, through Iran to India,

in response to safety concerns posted on the HUBB:

"Due to some religious ceremonies everywhere was closed for two days,including today, and therefore it seems that I will be here until 20th. The planned route is : Takab-Hamedan-Ahvaz- Shiraz -Bam ...but who knows how it works out.

Definitely trying to hook with Oeyvind on the way return and maybe for KKH.

Don't worry about your passport Jasong. This is a very very safe place. Even for you. You will be amazed at the hospitality to all foreigners.

March 25 - Just today I reached Shiraz. So if anybody is around it would be great to meet and have a drink. I am in Hotel Anvari- Room 232."

Ralf and Caroline Koebler, Germany, Australia to Europe, in Nepal, two Honda Transalps,

"...we are in Nepal at the moment. Our plan is to stay in Nepal for about 10 to 14 more days, then to India for about four weeks, then Pakistan and back to Europe...

Would also be nice to meet some of you others. See you, Ralf and Caroline"

by Ron Durkin, Australia,

"Bumped into 2 Irishmen (BMW GB members) who are traveling the world on GS's. Long story short, they have 6 weeks for OZ and are currently north thru QLD for Three Ways, where they head south for the centre & Perth (by tar). Interesting experiences with sand in Patagonia & other places has seen them send home excess clothes, camping gear, laptops etc. One dos not want the weight of a twin again. I don't think an 1150 Adventure would help here.

They have a very good web site, note the preparation page on the bikes, very interesting detail. A year on the road (so far). Note you can design in an over-load problem easily. You can catch their adventures at http://www.gsrtw.com/

If you see them on the road give them a G'Day & some good ride directions. (You could always ask about the Irishman they are aware of who claims to have ridden around Oz in 3 days!)

Ken & Carol (HU Ulmara) traveled on the road for 4 years 2 up on one GS (maybe a pillion is the answer to overloading)."

Ed. note: That would be John Wilson and Gerry Tiernan...

by Ricardo Rocco, in Ecuador,

"I'm writing in behalf of my Brazilian friend and fellow moto traveler Joao Batista de Lima, who is here with me in Quito. I stayed in his house in Parana, Brazil, and he is a very nice man with a beautiful family. He's heading to North America and then to Vladivostok to do Siberia and Europe.

... Another very useful favor will be if you can recommend an inexpensive place to stay in Seattle, because he will have to stay there for about 10 days."

Ed. comments: Anyone??

Andre Lomme, New Zealand,

"...starting on the 9th March to India then via Nepal, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey to Germany."

Ed. Andre has a new Blog on Horizons Unlimited here.

Mike Chapman, UK, a year 'round the USA, travelling on a Yamaha R6,

"first time traveller leaving for NYC 24th April, could you put my web page up as a link? I will be travelling for 12 months, travelling alone, no one else could get 12 months off...lol... very much looking forward to the 24th - can't come quick enough!"

John Kennedy , (kcfire) USA, to Mexico, and and Guatemala, KLR650,

"I made it home to Kansas City yesterday from Guatemala and Mexico. I had a pretty good trip, learned a lot for next year, and gained a lot of confidence about this international motorcycle travel bug I've caught. The KLR ran flawlessly. I rode for about three thousand miles round trip.

Enclosed is a pic at Lago de Atitlan. Yes, there really is a KLR under there."

Vincent Danna, France, around the world, BMW R100GS,

"Thanks Grant for the ezine, unfortunately, I have to fly back on the 25th of March for operation. It's not healing properly. We'll see if I can start again after operation. Thanks a lot for your help."

Best wishes to Vincent, let's hope the surgery solves the problem and he can start rolling again. (see previous ezine's and his site (en francais) for the story.)

Patrick and Belinda Peck, Australia, USA to Chile, Yamaha Super Tenere XTZ 750,

"Wow, what a trip. We rate our trip 11 out of 10 and the main difference between this and other trips was the motorcycle. It allowed us total freedom to go wherever we wanted and stop wherever we wanted and get off the well worn 'gringo trail'.

Belinda was very hesitant at first, but is now a confirmed 'motorcycle Mama'. Luck has a big part to play in it all. Over the 14 months we had no punctures, no accidents, no robberies, nothing stolen, no illnesses, only 2 days we couldn't ride because of rain - Total NO PROBLEMO! Pat was very well organised, had thought everything through and had everything replaced on the bike at the beginning. We bought the best gear and replaced tyres well before we needed to. He is also a very safe, conservative rider, and we never drove at night.

The 2 up combination has its advantages and disadvantages. It is very tough on the bike- we kept 'blowing the shock'- our only recurring problem. Also, bad dirt roads were a lot of work for Pat. The advantages are many: It's cheaper- only one lot of shipping, registration, insurance, maintenance and fuel. It's easier to navigate - Belinda had a map strapped onto the back of Pat's jacket and would give hand signals to the surrounding cars (and the occasional finger signal!!). We couldn't lose each other in traffic and when we were looking for a hotel in a city, Belinda would read the book (while riding) and direct Pat to the Hotel. When we arrived at the Hotel, Pat would stay and watch the bike, while Belinda checked the Hotel out. It's a team effort and very bonding.

The only thing we would change is to have an electronic communication system so we could talk to each other while riding. The difficulty in understanding hand signals was a major source of frustration for both of us. We couldn't find a good, reliable setup before we left.

Belinda was never bored on the back- when she wasn't telling Pat where to go! she was looking at the scenery, waving to the kids in the villages, doing leg and arm exercises, singing at the top of her voice (she's a terrible singer- thank God Pat couldn't hear), reading, thinking and even sleeping!

The local people we were lucky enough to meet, too many to name here, really made our trip special, leading us to many fantastic experiences we wouldn't have had otherwise. globalfreeloaders.com opened a lot of these doors for us as well as the Community section in HorizonsUnlimited.com. The world is a small place with the Internet!"

Check out Belinda and Patrick's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Wow - we've hit over 215 Communities in 63 countries! A big thanks to all those who took the first step and established the Community in their area. New Communities are: Trevelin, (Chubut State), (43° 04' S 71° 28' W) Argentina; Azul, (Buenos Aires State), (36° 47' S 59° 51' W) Argentina; Antwerp (51° 13' N 4° 24' E) Belgium; Rio de Janeiro (22° 54' S 43° 11' W) Brazil; Winnipeg, Manitoba (49° 53' N 97° 08' W) Canada; Kajaani (GPS 64° 13' N 27° 43' E) Finland; Ulaanbaatar (21° 07' N 101° 41' W) Mongolia; Zurich (47° 22' N 8° 32' E) Switzerland; Anchorage, Alaska (GPS 61° 12' N 149° 53' W) USA; Albuquerque, New Mexico (GPS 35° 05' N 106° 39' W) USA; New Jersey (New Milford) (40° 57' N 74° 01' W) USA; Puerto Rico (18° 27' N 66° 04' W).

A hint to check in with the Communities no matter where you are!

"Hi Grant,
... I saw that some people came through Georgia recently and had some problems - shame they didn't contact me and the Bikers Club.

I am off to do the trip round the Black Sea from May 1st which should be a lot of fun. I now have a new R1150GS Adventure which I rode back from Europe last September. I have changed the exhaust, taken off the CAT and put on a Remus silencer. It makes an amazing bike even better! ...Hope that we can meet up some day. Regards, Kevin Cain"

Tbilisi, Georgia, (Europe) HU Community is at 41° 43' N 44° 46' E just in case you're lost...

For details on how you can join, or use the Community to get information and help, or just meet people on the road or at home, go to the Community page. Send me some photos - with captions please - and a little text and you can have a web page about your Community! A few links to web pages about your area would be useful too.

Just a reminder to all, when you JOIN a Community in your area, send a note to the Community introducing yourself and suggesting a meeting, or go for a ride or something. It's a good way of meeting like-minded individuals in your own town.

Support the Horizons Unlimited E-zine - check out the HU Souk for fleece vests and jumpers / pullovers, t-shirts, hats and other products with the new logo and a variety of slogans! Just in time for Christmas presents for your favourite motorcycle traveller!

Thanks! Grant and Susan

Please recommend

Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine
to a friend! Just forward it to them, or send them the link to the newsletter on the website.

I am working on a listing of people who have ridden around the world, as well as what I call 'significant journeys' e.g. the first across Africa. Any information you may have on this topic, please let me know. Preferably e-mail me direct. I currently have information on over 100 world travellers listed, but there are many more. See Bernd Tesch's page for more. Bernd lists around 245 long distance travellers. And there's at least 30 enroute to an around the world. Have YOU done it? Let me know!

We hope you've enjoyed this issue, and do please let us know your thoughts. It's your newsletter, so tell us what you want to know about!

It is not the unknown, but the fear of it, that prevents us from doing what we want...

Grant and Susan Johnson

Live the dream! at:
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

All text and photographs are copyright © Grant and Susan Johnson and their respective authors or creators, 1987-2003.
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