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Welcome to the 49th edition of the Horizons Unlimited E-zine! We've got stories from lots of travellers from all over, and many leaving soon or just left, as the northern hemisphere heads into summer. Officially it's only spring, but it's felt like summer since the beginning of April here on the west coast. It's going to be a very busy summer for us, as we have four Travellers Meetings that we'll be going to (not all, sadly, but we will be at Revelstoke, North Carolina, Mexico and I'll be at the Portugal Meeting), as well as the BMWMOA National Rally in Spokane, and Intermot in Europe. We hope to see you at one of them!

We finally got it done - the new, all-singing and dancing Travellers Shipments database system is done and all shipments to date entered. A huge thank you to Harvey Gordon-Sawyers, UK, currently living in Delhi, India, who did a brilliant job of entering the bulk of the shipments into the system.

Two big advantages to the new system:

1. You can now search on shipments by continent and by country. For example, you can search on all shipments from South America to Europe. So, even if the precise route you are seeking hasn't been done yet, you can see who does ship from South America for contact details.

2. You can enter shipments directly into the database, which means they will be immediately available for other travellers to see. The old system produced a text e-mail, which Susan then had to copy and paste individual fields into a separate page. This was time consuming and resulted in long delays, as many of you will know!

This is the first part of a major site upgrade, and includes a Travellers database as well as the shipments. Over time we hope to have contact information and website details on everyone on the road, past and present. It will be a permanent record of the achievement, as well as a way for those in the database to contact each other. Yes it's secure, and you can choose what is shown to the world - or not. Next up is border crossings, additions to the Tech Translations and Glossary, and much more.

Check it all out at the new Shipping page.

Feel free to check and edit your own details, you could already be in the system.

Upcoming Travellers Meetings

Make sure you've marked your calendar for June 18-20, when the first Eastern USA / Canada HU Motorcycle Travellers Meeting will be held in western North Carolina, USA. We hear the riding is superb in that part of the country, "a short 30 minute ride to the Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap and the scenic Cherohala Skyway, two of the best motorcycle destinations in the United States". We plan to be there! We're looking forward to meeting a lot of you in person for the first time, and catching up with old friends.

And of course if you're in Europe you have to get to the UK Travellers Meeting, at a brilliant new location this year in Ripley, Derbyshire, with lots of room and great facilities, from multiple bars to a health club on site!

Thanks to all our loyal supporters

... and a gentle reminder to those who haven't contributed that we still need your help. Horizons Unlimited provides free services to the motorcycle travel community, including over 40 forums on the HUBB, valuable trip planning information, hosting travellers' blogs and photos, 270+ international Communities to welcome travellers, and of course, this ezine.

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your editors, Grant and Susan Johnson, (about us, contact us)

Horizons Unlimited Travellers Meetings 2004 - time to plan ahead!

Mark your calendars for at least one of these events. This is your chance to meet your fellow travellers, share adventures and travel tips, and incidentally to help support your favourite website! We are going to try very hard to be at as many of the meetings as possible ourselves, so we hope to see you there!

2004 Meetings:

Eastern USA / Canada First Annual Meeting, North Carolina, June 18-20, 2004

Ride famous Deals Gap! Details and registration here. Richard and Karen Fawcett and Jim and Liz Donaldson are organizing the meeting. Register now! Wondering what it's all about? Read about last years UK event for an idea. Susan and I will be there to meet you and pass on some travelling tips, and there will be a KTM 950 Demo bike to try out! NOTE: We need one or two more presenters, so if you can do a slide show on your travels please let me know.

UK 2004, Fourth Annual Meeting, July 9-11, 2004

Get in on the fun at the 2004 Meeting! NOTE brilliant NEW Location! Last years event story here.

Western Canada / USA, Third Annual Meeting, September 10-12, 2004

Carol Palladino and Peter Cameron (RTW 2002) will be hosting this event again, in beautiful Revelstoke, BC. Some of the best riding country in the world, rides of every description, including one to a local hot spring. Watch for new location in Revelstoke. Details and registration here. Last years event story here.

Portugal, Second Annual Meeting, September 24-26, 2004.

Contact Gonçalo Pais if you're interested in attending next year or helping out. If you wish to put on a slide show let us or Gonçalo know. Full Details of the 2003 event and pictures here.

Australia 2004 in progress, October 1-3, 2004

Several people have responded to our request for volunteers, so this event is in progress, same location as last year, and date is set. We could still use volunteers, though. Last years event story here.

Copper Canyon, Creel, Mexico, Oct 14 - 17, 2004

Yes that's 4 days - we're extending it - too much to do and places to ride! Main 'events' will still be Friday night, Saturday and Saturday night. Planning in progress, expect lots of exciting things, trail rides, tours of the area and more. If you wish to put on a slide show let us know! Last years event story here.

Viedma, Argentina, December 3-5, 2004 - Details coming.

Oscar Knecht, HU Viedma Community is the organizer of the meeting. Oscar's is a favourite stop with travellers on the way to Ushuaia - if you're headed that way be sure to add this event to your plans! Last years event story here.

See the Meetings page for more details on all events.

Why not start - or finish - your cross-country or RTW trip from one of this year's meetings? We guarantee a great reception and a free t-shirt! Anyone from overseas who plans to be in North America this summer, we'd love to see you at a meeting. (Grant will also be at the Portugal Meeting this year, as well as Intermot for the big motorcycle show.) Bring your stories and pics and show us where you've been! For those of you who haven't been to a HU travellers meeting, it's a great experience, different from any other motorcycle event, described as a "...uniquely typical travellers atmosphere that's an odd ball combination of mellow, and tail wagging enthusiasm." Make 2004 the year to get to one, two or more events and meet your fellow travellers!

If you are planning on coming to one of the meetings this year, please register early. Also let us know if you'd like to show a few slides from one of your trips too - it doesn't have to be a fancy multi-media presentation, a few slides and a few words about the area is great. Length can be anywhere from 10 minutes to 45 minutes.

Rene Cormier, Canada, around the world, in Honduras and Nicaragua, F650GS,

"Anyway so the border guy asked for all my papers including receipts for all the papers. It wasn't enough that I had the official document with all the stamps and signatures on it, he wanted to see the receipt. That was a problem, as I didn't get one from 'The Bank of Big Customs Guy'. I explained to the border guy about the bank being closed and he just sent me down to talk to the head guy, considerably better dressed than the rest of the folks there, and had a big office. I explained my case and how I had paid $3 for me, $10 for who knows what (but had the receipt for it), and $35 for the highway permit.

He looked at all of it and says 'another $20 for the road permit.'
What? I have the road permit!
'But I have no proof you paid for it.'
He was tolerant for my first objection, then quickly obstinate for my second.
'$20 or you don't leave Honduras!'
I paid the $20. There was only one stamp left to do in my passport and I was free to leave.
'One dollar for the stamp'
'Oh fer crissakes! Here! - And I want a receipt for that, too!' This man kindly made me out a full sheet receipt, in triplicate.

Honduras was an expensive 15 hours. I broke the first 2 rules of borders. Never lose your cool, and I should always politely admit that I was in the wrong, regardless of whether I was or not.

Rene with new friends in Yali, Nicaragua

... On the map, there led a little dirt road the long way to my hopeful destination that night. It was nice to get off the big boring highway, and instantly was able to relax as I plodded along in second gear, watching the hills roll by, waving to the kids, and dodging animals on the road. . The dirt roads are quite well done, with not much traffic, as there is only the occasional bus, and lots of horses. Within a mile, I came to the road where it was submerged by the river. The crossing didn't seem that deep, but the water was muddy, so I threw rocks to try to gauge the depth, and while trying to decide, a pickup truck came up behind me and I waited to see how deep the water came on him. I spoke with him briefly and he suggested that I use the pedestrian bridge. This was a mini Golden Gate bridge, maybe a couple of hundred feet long that bridged the water.

As I watched the truck get bounced around from the big underwater rocks, I made my way to the bridge, much to the dismay of the small crowd that appeared out of nowhere to watch me try to attempt the water. The bridge was wide enough for the bike plus 3-4' on either side. It was planked with wood, and on either side was a 3' high cable and chicken wire fence. I was hoping the bridge would be able to carry the weight of the bike, as it was a fair distance down. I took the bridge at a slow but steady speed and in 10 feet realized that the bridge was anything but stable. In addition to the wind that was moving the bridge, the weight of the moto was causing the up and down motion of the bridge throwing me from side to side, clanging into the chicken wire on both sides. One of the sides had grabbed the guitar case and ripped a hole in the side of it, luckily missing the guitar itself. I came to a quick halt and surveyed the situ. I was 1/4 of the way across, the bridge was holding, but I didn't like the look of the river any better from my new vantage point, 15' above it. I slowly proceeded, with my feet as outriggers, keeping me balanced and as bumpers against the wire walls. Rolled down the other side with a long breath of relief."

Gregory Frazier , USA, in Vietnam, Minsk,

"Breeding age. Small motorcycles are popping up in Vietnam like baby gerbils born and nursed on methamphetamines and Viagra. Ten years ago there were a few million little motorcycles in Vietnam. Today there are 40,000,000 in a country of 80,000,000 people. Kick the top off an anthill, and seconds later the swirling ants look like motorcycles in Hanoi during rush hour traffic. The Chinese and Japanese companies know consumers in Vietnam are of the age they can purchase a little motorcycle, the breeding age.

Vietnam had a maximum legal size for a motorbike of 125-cc; therefore, my 1,000-cc BMW was not allowed to cross the border into the country. Some have managed to get 'big bikes ' into Vietnam, but once inside unknowingly face confiscation by authorities. I decided to take my chances on finding an adequate motorcycle once I got there as I had done on one of my earlier rides around the world, so flew in with my riding gear, tool kit and a handful of cash.

I was able to locate the Minsk dealer in Hanoi, who had six new motorcycles for sale, for about $600.00 each. I could purchase a motorcycle, use it, and then sell it back to him at some loss. For $5.00 a day, I could rent one. Or I could buy one, ride it down to Ho Chi Min City (formerly Saigon), about 1,200 miles south and sell it there.

While I was trying to decide on what to do over the next three weeks, Digby Greenhalgh dropped in the one room shop. Digby and his partner Dan Dockery run a motorcycle tour company called Explore Indochina and are principal movers and shakers in the Minsk Club. Digby was collecting a couple of clients who had booked a short tour. He told me what I could expect if I rode Highway 1A south to HCMC. He used terms like 'flat, ' 'rice fields, ' 'traffic, ' 'good paved road, ' and 'pretty boring, ' but did sprinkle the description with 'nice beaches, ' 'DMZ, 'Viet Cong tunnels ' and 'Saigon city. '

'Minsk-man'Digby Greenhalgh collects his clients and shares some of his knowledge of Minsks and Vietnam with me. In the evening he introduced taught me how to be a 'killer-swiller' chasing beer with snake wine.

Then I asked him, 'Well, what's up here in the north? ' He said, 'Thick jungle, red mud, hill tribes, remote villages where no one speaks French or English, the Ho Chi Minh Trail, Laos, China, mountains, and Cat Ba Island. I hear the road to Mai Chau and Diem Bien Phu may be closed, so you would have to figure out a way around. You could make a nice loop, take a couple of weeks, and end up back in Hanoi. It might be a bit risky though, being out there alone and not knowing the bike, language or customs. '

He hooked me with one word, risky. I slammed down the map, said 'Gimme one of those Minsks and point me west, out of town. I'm no reclined rider. Let me see how you define risky. I'm up to the challenge, I just want to know if the Minsk is? ' Digby smiled at me like I was a newbie to the motorcycle adventure game, then said, 'Trust me mate, it'll do you right.'

Not all the roads up along the border were paved.

Ed. See Greg's website on Horizons Unlimited for the whole story.

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Maarten Munnik, Netherlands, around the world, in Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil, Honda Africa Twin,

"Uruguay is very different from Argentina. Many colonial houses face the roadside and the roads are lined with palm trees and there are a few very picturesque towns with buildings from the Portuguese time.

Colonia de Sacremento is one of those treasures and it became even better when I stopped in front of the tourist office. There was a big bike (KLR 650) and a sticker, which said 'Mexico' and 20 meters away a tall guy started to wave at me. It was Juan Carlos whom I had met briefly in San Martin de Los Andes. What a coincidence. We, Juan, Miranda (his girlfriend) and I, put our tents up at the municipal campgrounds and headed into the old town for a walk and a diner.

"Hug an armadillo" day. Peninsula Valdes, Argentina.

So far I like Uruguay, but the fuel is bloody expensive, almost a dollar a litre (don't laugh you guys in Europe. I just came from Argentina) A few more days and I will be meeting my friend Jason, who has been chasing me for over a year now and just caught up to me a few days ago.

It started at the border. After checking out of Uruguay we entered a town (Chuy) and had lunch. This town is built in no man's land. On one side of the main street is Uruguay and on the other side is Brazil. In my quest for a T-shirt from Uruguay I finally crossed the road and found a shop that sold T-shirts with Brazil printed on them. When I asked if they also had Uruguay on some the lady smiled and said 'You are in Brazil now.' Too bad the other side of the road did not have T-shirt shops.

Our first camp was in a quiet little town on a river. There was a light bulb where we wanted to put our tents, until Jason touched the switch. Darkness was the answer. It seemed endless because whatever we did the light did not come on again, until Richard flipped the right switch. The light was on again, for 20 seconds only, because as an uncontrollable computer geek I had to reproduce the problem to see if the solution would work again. Meaning I flipped the switch and again darkness was the answer. Of course I knew which switch to flip back, so full of confidence I did that, and it remained dark. I had just destroyed my reputation as a sane and well educated person and became a stupid dumb ass on the spot. Luckily the light went on again after a small prayer. Just in time or Jason and Richard would have smacked my head against the switch.

Koalas are sweet, but this is more exciting. Pantanal, Brazil

In Porto Alegre we were picked up by Tania who took us to her house. Richard, who is better known as Bill by the family, got his own room but it was too small for all of us, so Jason and I had to settle for a 15 room villa in a uptown neighbourhood. The only problem we had was to decide which of the 5 bathrooms we would use and in which garage we would park our bikes.

Time to move on. Rio is calling. So Jason and I left for Santa Catharina. Bill stayed behind for more kaparina. At a toll booth we met Greg who has a hotel in Porto Segura and invited us to stay there, for free of course, because he was also a biker.

Work for a living. Buenos Aires.

Close to Laguna the police stopped me. What had I done wrong I wondered, as even my lights were turned on? Apparently they just wanted to see the bike and when Jason, who was also pulled over, asked about a campsite they said they were going to show us where it was. A moment later we were driving 150 km/hour behind a police car with flashing lights through the dense traffic of the BR 101. Luckily they got a call on the radio and could not take us there, but told us where to get off which luckily we did not do as we missed the exit. Luckily? Why? The next day Laguna was destroyed by a hurricane and I don't think my tent would have survived that.

We ended up in Santa Catharina where I phoned Luciana, a friend of Tania and Adriana from Porto Alegre and wouldn't you know it, we got a 10 room villa close to the beach all for ourselves. We even had a maid to clean the place, give me a Tai Chi lesson and a massage. Isn't life a drag? When we left we stopped in Florianapolis to get some cash and met a guy who had a bike shop and he offered us his apartment in town. Now we are in Sao Paulo where a guy Jason has met before will meet us and we will stay in his house. I have been in Brazil for two weeks and I had to pay for only two nights. I like this place. It's just a little different. If only I could understand their language! Maarten "

Ed: Maarten's recent photos are on MSN.

Patrick and Belinda Peck, Australia, RTW, in Malaysia, Thailand, and Myanmar, Yamaha Tenere,

"We are in paradise (we know we have said that many times, but this really is the ultimate!!) Great beaches, great snorkeling, great food, friendly people and cheap!!! When we last wrote we were on our way to The Perhentian Islands in Malaysia. We stayed for a week, beach combing and discovering something new and exciting every day. We then crossed the border into Magnificent Thailand where the people are the friendliest in the world.

Our favourite destination so far is Kho Phi Phi. We slowly worked our way up the coast of Thailand island, hopping from Kho Mok to Kho Phi Phi. We have to be experts now on tropical islands and beautiful beaches. They never seem to lose their appeal as each one is different. At Phi Phi we stayed for a week in our beachfront hut for $15 per night.

Magical Phi Phi Island great beaches, snorkeling, restaurants- paradise to us.

... We left the gorgeous islands of Thailand for the dirty Myanmar border town called Kawthoung and nearly did an about face! The land borders are just starting to open to tourists and we only saw one other tourist in the 10 days that we toured the southern arm of Myanmar.

The people were as friendly as the Thais, but the subtle differences were: the mud coating on their faces to protect them from the sun; most of the men wore sarongs (like a long skirt) and the women carry heavy loads on their head and do most of the physical labour, i.e. construction.

Their Government is a military dictatorship that suppresses the people and restricts all information brought in and out of the country. Therefore, there are restricted international phone calls, all emails out of the country are banned and SMS messages are impossible.

Many local people earn $6 per month and forced labour camps have closed as recently as 1996. One member of a comedy team, called The Moustache Brothers was sent to jail and forced labour for 7 years for telling derogatory jokes about the Government!!

We visited villages made from grass and bamboo in the forest that would have looked the same 4000 years ago. We both celebrated our birthdays walking through villages and waving to the kids- our second favourite activity after walking along beaches. Life is simple there, with little stress and even fewer possessions and the people seem really happy and content.

Began is a Buddhist town with 2,000 pergodas (temples) which makes an impressive skyline. It is hard to imagine its peak of 17,000 temples in the 11th Century destroyed in the 1970's by a huge earthquake.

Began Temples as far as the eye can see

They say that Rangoon (The Capital) was the origin of Buddhism and the first pergoda "Swedagon" was initially built 2,700 years ago.

Tourists are not allowed to bring vehicles into the country, which is just as well as most of the roads are dreadful!!"

Ed. See Patrick and Belinda's blog here on Horizons Unlimited.

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Motocare Motorcycle Rental, hiring Honda's Transalp for touring Argentina and Chile. Ride across the Andes, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, lakes, deserts, salt pans, waterfalls, beaches, rain forests, glaciers...

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Rayko Moritz and Markus Rohling, LoMo Expedition, Germany to Shanghai and back, in Malaysia and India, XT600's,

"A boat will come, they said, but we can't find a ship going to India. Unhelpful ship agents refuse to let us talk with the captains of daily container vessels bound for India, but we can move unhindered in the port area, so we try our luck in person. On board the SS Border, a vessel under the Turkish flag, we get a cool welcome from Irrfan, the young captain of this ship. He's gets interested in our story but finally says he can't break the rules, and offered to take our bikes on his next trip-but without us.

The next few days are depressing. The captains' answers are always the same: 'No!' or they send us back to the ship agents. Nobody will take extra passengers on board since 9/11. After two weeks of unsuccessful searching the SS Border docks again. We hope the offer of shipping the bikes is still good. But they don't want to talk to us now.

Again we change our strategy and decide on plan 'C'. We found a forwarding agency that will crate our motorcycles for shipping to India. Camping near the port we meet Adela and Yeo, who invite us to supper, and we tell them our story in a fish restaurant. Their friendliness is unbelievable. First they offer to let us sleep in their garage apartment-then they say we can have one room of their apartment in Kuala Lumpur.

Finally, when it's time to leave, Adela drives us to the train station. We express our thanks for the last time; and from here it's 60 km to the international airport. Then we're on the plane to Chennai, formerly known as Madras, the start of our next odyssey...

Nagpur - Oh, an alien.

India

... We are free! Finally we are free again! Nobody kept us as prisoners, but we had to stay at one place the last week. First we had to fight all of January in Kuala Lumpur to find a way to get to India; and then it takes another week in Chennai with unbelievable bureaucracy, just to get our motorcycles out of the Indian customs.

It helps us to forget the last week at the moment, as now we have to concentrate on our surroundings. It really challenges our concentration. Honking continues by every possible vehicle as chaos-like it pushes itself congested through the city. The excellent 3 month driving experience in China prepared us unconsciously for the traffic chaos.

Suburb of Hyderabad, Going for water.

This time a fallow field provides the spot for our tent. While we are cooking by the light of our headlamps, some passers-by are taking notice of us. When we are already into the deep sleep phase, a permanent hum wakes me up. A headlight flits over the tent canvas. Suddenly the engine stops and unfriendly, gruff voices urge us to get out of the tent. The ignorance, which we used successfully in China, doesn't seem to work here at all. Three Indians talk to me and their voices are not sounding good. Friendly, and by watching their reactions I try to appease them, but I can only make gestures to express myself. Then, the guys are getting threateningly close and before I realize it, I get a heavy slap in the face.

OK guys, that's enough! Slaps will only be distributed by Papa and I seize him by the collar. During the fray Lo's voice from the tent is criticizing me and shortly afterwards he stands beside me. He is right. It makes no sense to beat the guys up, even if they deserve it and at the same time I realize that my biggest concern is about our equipment. We have a hard discussion with the 3-headed village delegation, but even drawings with clear symbols don't change their opinion. Strange, suddenly they stop the discussion and leave in their monster truck. Now we use the time to pack our stuff just in case they return."

Merritt Grooms, USA and Pierre Saslawsky, France , around the world, from Africa to South America, BMW F650's,

"The peso in Argentina to the dollar used to be one to one. Now the exchange rate is 2.9 to 1 and the economic drought shows in the conversations, graffiti and protests I see everywhere. First, the graffiti is incredibly here. It is political and it is everywhere. Nothing like the graffiti of privileged kids of America who cant even spell 'Satin Rules' (Satan) correctly, haha. The main protests were against the many banks that closed their doors, and left 1000's of families destitute. One day there was an old woman with a hammer, beating the hell out of a metal door to a closed 'Bank of Boston'. Eventually, several other people joined her with hammers and the racket deafened the air with their anger and loss. A few dorky tourists joined them and together they had themselves a one-octave orchestra. The protests in the streets here last for hours and cork the city to a standstill.

...We are driving everyday down the east coast trying to make it to Ushuaia. It gets increasingly cold, windy and rainy. One day we ride all day in high winds and rain, and have to constantly stop to press our hands around the motorcycle engines to keep from freezing to death. It's miserable. I realize today, that women's evolution did not include gaining the logistics for peeing outside in the wind. Pierre takes out the thermometer and the temperature is almost at freezing point. I am having bloody daydreams of falling under semi trucks as we pass them, and all kinds of gruesome drama I won't share with you. The only thing that takes my mind off of this is when I see a lake full of pink flamingos. I stare and stare and know I am hallucinating. Then I see one flying in the sky. Flamingos in the south of Argentina in sub zero climate! Two days ago, we visited a park where a million penguins run around in the baking sun. What a queer and eccentric land...

The Glaciers look like lost ghosts singing to the frigid air. The ice cracks, melts and explodes constantly with the heartbreaking call of change, which terrifies us all. There are colors here in the water and in the sky that I have never seen in my life. When we first come upon the ice mass, my mind wants to reject that this is real. I feel like it is a set from City of Lost Children or Narnia. The glacier is one of the most awesome things I have ever seen - a fairy tale.

The Parque De Glacieres is near Calafate, an over the top tourist town that we camp in. We also stay 10 days in a very remote mountain village called El Chalten, home of Mt Fitz Roy which all climbers know and hope to climb. Here you will find alpinists, environmentalists, gaucho cowboys, and an eclectic smattering of hodge poggers. Horses run wild around the town, and dust and windstorms are always about. I am in heaven with my 4 layers of warm on, crisp air and visual breathe. I am in better shape now and at a lower weight than I have been the whole trip, and I think it is from tensing my muscles 24 hrs a day from the cold. I love the weather and I feel at home, I don't know about my skinny beau hunk though."

Chris Smith, Australia, Around the world, in Malaysia, Cambodia and Laos, KTM 640 Adventure,

"The next part of Malaysia I had been looking forward to for a long time, was the Cameron Highland. Taking another one of Malaysia's efficient highways to this most charming spot was an absolute pleasure of a ride and hitting the highlands is a must for all travelling to Malaysia. The roads here winding through beautiful waterfalls and tea plantations and at the highest point of the Highlands reaches 1202mtrs and at this point you are riding in the clouds. It was then 3 days of hiking through the highlands and taking in the beauty of this place, with its wild flowers and everlasting tea plantations words cannot explain how breathtaking this place was. It has left an everlasting impression on me and I will be sure to be visiting here again.

... About 30 km away from Butterworth my dash stated flashing on and off on off. I thought my electrics have failed. I thought the thermo fans were on throughout the traffic I was driving through causing the battery to discharge, then I thought I had a blown fuse.

... Taking the bike to get the electrics fixed in the morning was the next task with Lim. Taking a day off work to help me, this was going to make things much easier. After 15 hours of checking the harness it was diagnosed as a burned out wiring harness. A problem that has had me go through 3 batteries and 1 regulator. I was very lucky to have found a mechanic as good as this, in such a place were competent mechanics are hard to find. I thank you for your time and effort there at Guan Motorcycles. After spending 3 nights there in Bertam and getting treated with the red carpet it was time to leave on my next adventure."

Vincent Danna, France, around the world, in India and Nepal, BMW R100GS,

"We took the road with Stéphane and finally Meryn joined us, going in the direction of Darjeeling.

In the state of Bihar and Madhya Pradesh, the roads are really bad. Meryn's Enfield broke up progressively, at least all the points of fixing, the welding, the frame with the back on which the luggage stands hold.

Meryn leaves us travelling in the direction of Rajasthan. With Stéphane, we went to Sikkim, at least as far as was authorized for us. If we tried to pass military controls we were nicely asked to drive back, in particular in the east of Sikkim. It is impossible to travel with one's own vehicle without a licence. To obtain a first general licence (free in 1/2 hour in Darjeeling), it is necessary to obtain particular licences to travel in certain areas in Sikkim. One cannot ask for these licences alone, it is necessary to go into travel agencies and pay a minimum of 20 euros per day.

I passed without any problems the India-Nepal border towards Siliguri, close to Darjeeling. No problem in Nepal until Katmandu, in particular with the Maoists. The Maoists at present, are infiltrated at all levels (they are very informed), they create roadblocks and stop travellers. The soldiers try to prevent that by filtering the traffic. The tourists are not concerned with military controls but can be robbed by the Maoists on the road and when trekking in the mountains.

Arrived at Katmandu, direction Freak St, where I have my reference marks from a preceding trip. The number of tourists really fell since the political problems (assassination of part of the royal family in 2001) and the presence of the Maoists.

I came to Katmandu to organize my shipping to Bangkok. I did not want to organize this shipping from India, for lack of time and of confidence in the Indian bureaucracy, I did not want to go to Bangladesh either.

I had envisaged making this tour of the world in two years. It will be two years at the beginning of April 2004. I am late (!) and will try to still continue two more years, by paying attention to my budget."

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Xavier L. Rozas, USA, in Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay, on Honda XR650L and BMW R1100GS

"... we run into Mike just outside of Rio Gallegos eating lunch at a gas station. He got separated from Juan Carlos at the ferry crossing and is now traveling alone. He looks at my riding gear and rightly guesses that I hit the same mega-puddle as he did coming off the isthmus of the island. Indeed it was am abnormally wide and deep puddle, but what made it even more menacing was that as the water began to drip off my windscreen, visor and jacket it left a thick gooey substance like frog eggs or snot. It had since dried and just white and brown stains remain. I continue to tell myself it was just frog eggs and not something more disgusting.

"Me hates it my precious, me hates the long and boooring roads."
"I tell you, I thought I had my life all figured out, but after 2 days of this road I feel more at odds with the universe than ever. This sucks."
"Let's cut it short today and hit the penguins at Punto Tombo. It will be a nice break."
"I am going to pick one up."
"I am going to punt one."
"I am taking one with me; attach him to my front fender."

The sun fades away much earlier than we are used to this far north. By 8 pm we are riding off into the dusty terrain over and around craggy low-growth to set up camp. We broke open a few box wines over a huge fire then called it a night early so as to be the first at the penguin sanctuary in the morning; hopefully before the buses full of tourists arrived. That night I slept under the stars while Mike pitched his tent just in case it began to rain.

"Holy shit, there is a scorpion under my tent! He was shiny, black and scary looking, a lot like Darth Vader."

I pull the drawstrings on my sleeping bag so tight that just my mouth and nose are exposed for breathing. I don't think I slept as the sun was up and we were pulling into the Punto Tombo penguin sanctuary before I even rolled 10 feet off the mat of clothes I laid out under my sleeping bag...

... The thought of the return home is like an adventure unto itself. Not really sure what to expect, but I've got to make the most of it regardless. That's why they call it adventure living!"

Bob Morley, UK, around the world, in Chile, F650GS,

"The plan was to ride approx. 200km to Chaiten and find out about a ferry to Chiloe before deciding whether to go there or stay on the mainland to get to Puerto Mont.

There's a town on the way with the strangest thing I've seen yet. I've seen houses made from converted windmills, water towers and even a bomb shelter, but this was the first time I've seen one made from an Aircraft. Somehow a DC3 had been turned into a house and it was begging to be photographed. (How do they hang cupboards on the kitchen walls?).

This is where it gets a bit gory. I got off the bike, retrieved my camera and promptly trod on a round stone. My left foot rolled underneath me and I fell on it. I'm not sure if I heard or felt the gross popping sound my ankle made as I twisted and landed on it but it's something I don't want to experience ever again. It was agony. It didn't feel broken, but I couldn't move my ankle and we were 30km from Chaiten. With some help I got on the bike and rode ahead towards town. I couldn't bend my foot so changing gears was interesting, changing down I could do with my heel, changing up involved snagging the shift lever with the back of my boot and swearing lots.

The next section of road was being resurfaced and was reduced to one lane. For some strange reason (possibly because My Foot Hurt!) I didn't notice the red sign at the beginning of the roadwork and blew straight past, completely focused on getting to town.

Two minutes later I met the oncoming traffic. Ignoring the flashing headlights and blaring horns I sneaked past until I met a truck, then crossed onto the other side which was being worked on and kept going.

One nice thing about the towns in Chile is that it's really easy to find the hospital. There are signs sprinkled all over showing the way. Within a few minutes my smelly foot had been thoroughly examined by a doctor who pronounced that I'd damaged the tendons but nothing was broken.

The doctor said I'd either need a cast on my foot for 10 days or would have to immobilize my ankle with elastic bandages for 14 days. I'd no intention of being stuck here waiting for a cast to be taken off so decided on the latter. The next morning my ankle was badly swollen and impossible to move without some serious pain (which I'm allergic to) and as we were planning to get the ferry to Chiloe the following day I needed to find some way to immobilize my ankle.

English ingenuity, a bent bit of steel and 'panzerband' (German for 'duct tape') solved the problem. Peter scrounged some steel from a workshop and got it bent into an 'L' shape. Squeezing my foot into a bike boot and duct taping the steel to the boot completely immobilized it. I can now walk again, albeit slowly, often overtaken by old people.

Here's what I've learnt from the experience: -
1. Walking on gravel roads is more dangerous than riding a motorcycle.
2. Duct tape can fix anything.
3. Doctors prefer patients to wear clean socks.

The only other news of the day is that Peter has taken up 'Motodogging'. Whilst foraging for steel he managed to get nine dogs to chase him for two blocks - that's 18 points and a promising start to his career. Mirko has yet to score, for some reason dogs prefer to pee on his bike instead of chasing it, possibly because it's a Honda."

Ed. For the rules to this 'sport', see http://www.motodogging.com

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Peter and Kay Forwood, Australia, around the world since 1996, touring Australia, on a Harley-Davidson,

"West then inland, more spectacular coastal formations, enormous arches and island pinnacles. This area is also known as the shipwreck coast. Vessels sailing from England, after three months away from land, arrived at the Australian coast. Often arriving in fog it was too late to see the sheer wall of cliffs. Few survived due to the rough seas. Inland the Grampians National Park, a mountain range rises abruptly from the surrounding flatlands. Full of wildlife our campground covered in kangaroos grazing in late evening.

Kangaroos are grazing grasslands all around the park. We saw perhaps 500 eastern greys, along the road, thousands more must be where the road doesn't go, forced onto open grasslands by lack of feed. A real concern on a motorcycle as they tend to like grazing the mown roadside for the short green pick. Middle of the day generally safe but early morning and late evening a definite hazard, night time travel really dangerous out here.

Kangaroo Island is Australia's third largest island, 150 km x 50 km, it's isolation keeping introduced species to a minimum and thus is favoured for wildlife. Uninhabited when white man first arrived in Australia it also has some distinctly unique variations of mainland animals. A quick introduction to the wildlife when a pod of dolphins escorted the ferry, riding the bow wave for some minutes before tiring. Fairy (little) penguins nest on the foreshores and on our evening walk we saw dozens leaping out of the ocean to pair up with mates guarding nests as this is the mating season. They can be seen standing under street lights or waddling about town, their tell tale guano dolloped on the pavement."

Ed. The Forwood's have been to 143 countries in Africa, Asia, the Middle East, Europe and North and South America. Horizons Unlimited is proud to host their entire trip story here.

Florence Pierson, USA, RTW, in Mexico, Honda Shadow Sabre,

"I am in Puerta Vallarta. I got stranded on the beach a couple of nights ago and have about 100 insect bites on my arms and face. I found myself in a small pueblo and stopped to inquire about a place to stay...told there were some cabanas outside of town on the beach ...proceeded to get my bike stuck in the sand.

There was no one to be found at the cabanas. I walked back to the road and talked to two young girls, who were walking, into helping me get my bike out. They assured me that I could not find anywhere else to stay before dark. I found one of the cabanas open, so I moved in. After I had unloaded the bike the owners came. I talked them into 15 dollars for the night. No food, no water. Fortunately I had a little cheese and a 1/2 pint of brandy in my bag and I convinced the owner to ride his bicycle to town for 10 pesos and get me a bottle of water. I didn't want to risk getting stuck traveling in the sand in the dark.

There were turtles on the beach, but by the time I got up and took my cold! shower, they had already laid their eggs and split. All I saw were the many craters left where they had buried the eggs.

I wish I had an on road/off road bike, as there are so many places I would like to explore, but am afraid to take the heavy street bike.

Deep sea fishing

I spent a week in Puerta Vallarta. left refreshed and rode to Mazatlan. I was lucky enough to get in before the ferry left for La Paz. Not only did I get a ticket out that day, but I got it for half price ($100.00). The militia was tearing people's vehicles apart looking for contraband. They told me to cool the bike down so they could inspect everything. I anticipated a huge ordeal, but when it came my turn the agent just walked the dog by, smiled, and told me to go aboard. They never even checked my paperwork.

I met a woman from Cabo on the ferry. She let me sleep in her car with her. Good thing, or I would have been the only woman rolling her bedroll out on the deck with all of the truck drivers. The ferry ride was 21 hours."

Ed. See Florence's blog here on Horizons Unlimited.

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Arno Backes and Sian Mackenzie, Germany and UK, Australia via USA to South America, in Argentina, on BMW R100GS PD and Yamaha XT600E,

"Sandra and Javier are the HU community in Buenos Aires and go out of their way to make sure any travellers that arrive there are well taken care of.

Sandra and Javier outside Dakar Motos

The first thing we had to do was change the worn out tires on our bikes for the shiny new ones we had picked up on the way into town. Javier knew a place nearby where we could get them changed quite cheaply, so we loaded up the BMW and he took us over there. The guys at the Gomeria were fast workers and had the 4 tires changed within the hour. 'Quite cheap' turned out to be very cheap, we paid less than €4 for the lot.

Transporting the tyres to the Gomeria

... Back at La Posta, we cleaned the bikes and waded through a mountain of photos, picking out the best ones. Many travellers came and went while we were there, local and international. Daniel from Switzerland on a Teneré; a couple of locals from Bahia Blanca; 3 Swiss riders, Sepp and Gari on TDMs and Urs on a TTR; Carl from Germany on his F650, Juan Carlos from Mexico on a KLR and our friend from Mar del Plata, Marcelo on his Gold Wing.

Juan Carlos from Mexico on his KLR

A Japanese cyclist also turned up, he looked familiar and it turned out we had met him up in Mexico over a year ago. Its a damn small world! It was wonderful to meet all these travellers and of course it was a good excuse for Jorge to get the Asado fired up!"

For more stories, check out Arno and Sian's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Didier Martin, France / Australia, around the world for World Vision, in Argentina, F650GS,

"My friend 'Mad Max Simon' and his graceful French girlfriend Rachel had been in Buenos Aires for some weeks and had rented an apartment right in the centre. Having more rooms than they needed they offered to rent one to me. My main occupation for the following two weeks was to organize my bike to be shipped back to Melbourne and to get a cheap flight to France. I had decided to go to France to visit my family (my father is going through some very tough times health wise) and to do some promoting for World Vision while there.

Rachel flew back to England to work for a while and she was replaced by Catherine, the lone driver from Belgium. My friend Pete (from the States), with whom I had spent Christmas, arrived at around the same time. His bike (1000 BMW) had broken down some 1600km from Buenos Aires. They arrived in the back of a truck. Steffen (former musketeer and riding a KTM) joined us as well. It was the end of the road for Catherine, Steffen and yours truly but Pete will fly to Japan from here and keep on travelling. Mad Max Simon, doctor in English philosophy, is not sure which way to go, north, south, west, east... or up.

Ourôc & Metka Blasko, Slovenia, Moto Guzzi

On my last night, which was St Patrick's Day, we were joined by some other motorcycle riders from different parts of the world to celebrate our success.

It was time, the following night, to say good-bye to my friends and to South America. The flight with Aerolineas Argentinas would take 15 hours to take me to France. Fifteen hours on a plane versus ten months on a bike, where did I go wrong? Boeing 747 versus BMW 650. No contest. Why was I not told?

It took 2,900 litres of petrol to cover over 69,000 km in 17 months while visiting 39 countries on the way. You have read the book so make sure that you don't miss the movie, soon, in the cinema near you, I hope. I would like to thank you all for your faithfulness and for your support. Merci et au revoir. Didier"

Read more of Didier's adventures on his website.

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Leif Mortensen, Denmark and Heather McKay, UK, in Nicaragua, Harley-Davidson,

"I just love Nicaragua, the best country I have visited so far in Central America. It is really nice, extremely friendly people (will have to brush up on the Spanish with all the people that wanna chat to us), very tranquil and civilised. The nature is beautiful, good riding and lovely scenery. Yesterday we visited volcano Masaya on a paved road straight up to the side of the crater and sulphur fumes streaming up (the park rangers told us to park facing away from the crater, just in case of an emergency :-) Also rode out to Laguna Apoyo, where from the crater side you have a wonderful view of this clear blue lake, Granada with its cathedrals and Lake Nicaragua in the background. Lake Nicaragua is the biggest lake in Central America, In the lake live freshwater sharks (the only place in the world). When the land rose long time ago, sharks were caught in the lake and got used to living in fresh water.

Most people down here are more well dressed and seem more content than in the rest of Latin America, I think mostly due to that the wealth is not so unevenly distributed as in Guatemala, El Salvador etc. This results in among other things, good restaurants and actual bars that are nice; almost unknown in Central America (outside the tourist tracks) and the food is marvellous, almost European style. Saying that, there are still loads of street kids and cars are not an everyman item, so everywhere guys are riding around on horses, rather stylish looking in their pressed shirts and cowboy hats.

Here in Nicaragua (and El Salvador) no one wears indigenous clothing (The colourful clothing is one of Guatemala's charms). Under the civil wars down here, the paramilitary targeted and killed people in indigenous clothing, so this dress code quickly went out of fashion.

For the first time we have also met loads of motorcycle travellers and we met up with our friends from Antigua: Nathanael, Cas and Jet a couple from Rotterdam travelling for a year with their 11 year old daughter. Good to have a buddy to go out and have a boys night out with. Also have to mention Harley Charlie from Granada; when we parked our bike to find a hotel in Granada, he came, introduced himself, turned out he had over a dozen Harley's (bought 8 police evos that he is renovating to start a Harley rental business) so I figured he would have a workshop and I had a problem with my jiffy stand spring, so he lead us to his house and helped me attach the spring to the jiffy stand (a rather tricky thing to do) Great guy, been in Granada for 6 years, owns a Remax realty business, plus two restaurants Nacho mama (best home fries I have had since my beloved truck stops in the states."

Ed. Leif mentioned in his e-mail that we had censored his comment about turkeys in a previous newsletter. We don't do this because we personally are prudish, but many of our subscribers get the newsletter at work. We have discovered the hard way that corporate e-mail servers, and also Aol and other ISP's are vigilant about screening out 'bad words', and they don't just asterisk the word, they block the entire newsletter! We also have to excise any phrases that might be construed as spam, whether the phrase is innocent in context or not. And finally, if we have a link in the newsletter to someone whose e-mail address ends in a number we earn 'spam points' just for that. The whole process is a royal pain in the hindquarters!

Ryan Miguel Bock, USA, Alaska to Ushuaia, KLR650, in Mexico,

"I met Salvador on the streets of the pueblo at Valle de Bravo in the State of Mexico, after spying his 'police edition' KLR. Salvador is Policia Estatal, and a very genuine and nice fellow. His essential function is to slow drivers down on the highways around the area, specifically to save the lives of the Monarch butterflies that come every year from Canada to breed in the states of Michoacan and Mexico. He takes that very seriously. After talking a bit and sharing some KLRisms, he was very excited to come and see my bike parked at my hotel. There we shared notes and tech tips, and information in general.

There are exactly forty of these KLR´s in the state of Mexico. Each officer is assigned a bike and is responsible for its care and maintenance. Salvador has been the only rider of his bike ever since it came off the showroom floor. He has 50,000 miles on the odometer.

Salvador was excited to photocopy my kawasaki service manual and supplement, even though he nor his other police comrades speak or read English. He borrowed it overnight and copied every page, returning it in the morning as promised. He said as I left the next day he would see me on the highway, as I was leaving through his assigned section of carretera. Sure enough, the following day I encountered him on my way back to Mexico City, parked in a turnout with a patrol car. I stopped to say hi and goodbye and soon state police seemed to come from every direction, crowding with great interest around us and my bike, Salvador telling them how we had met the day before. Salvador offered to guide me hiking up the hill to see the butterflies en masse, but as I was trying to overcome a late start that morning, I respectfully declined.

... Anyone coming down to central Mexico, plan a stop over here in Malinalco, here you have a host and a guide waiting to share the wonders of the area and the winding mountain roads and paths. Just pop me an e-mail."

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La Vuelta al Mundo por la Paz - Un Sueno que se hace Realidad,

by Ricardo Rocco Paz,

Ricardo's adventures in South America, in Spanish. There's two tapes and a book, contact him for details. Some photos here.

One Year on the Road, Cinq Continents en Moto, by Manou Emringer and Ellen Spencer, in English and French. "This travelogue, illustrated with over 400 photos, follows their journey through North and South America, West Africa, Europe and Asia."

Available through Manou and Ellen directly, 38 Euros plus shipping, or in North America from HU. Don't forget to tell them where you heard about it. It's a very nice book, well done - I have one! Grant

From Nordkapp to Cape York on a Motorcycle, by Werner Bausenhart. Werner, 66, was born in Germany and worked in Canada until his retirement. He has authored a number of books since getting bit by the motorcycle travel bug, including 8 Around the Americas by Motorcycle, Into the Den of the Bear and the Lair of the Dragon on a Motorcycle, and Africa Against the Clock on a Motorcycle.

Werner's latest book describes his travels from Nordkapp to Australia overland, and back to Canada to complete the RTW trip. Should be an inspiration to any of you who have been thinking you're too old to go around the world on a motorcycle!

All his books are available directly from Werner. Tell him we sent you and get US$5.00 off the regular US$20 price!

For details on his books see here. Contact Werner via this link to get the deal.

The Producers of Mondo Enduro present Terra Circa, Around the World by Motorcycle (6 x 20 minute episodes).

Regular readers of this newsletter will remember Terra Circa's adventures around the world, and especially the Zilov Gap. Now's your chance to see it in video. Austin Vince is a very funny guy and the video is hilarious, as he leads his intrepid crew through misadventure after misadventure.

"This is adventure motorcycling" says Chris Scott, who wrote the book, so he ought to know!

Contact Terra Circa video distributors for the PAL video or all format DVD. Don't forget to tell them where you heard about it.

Looking for a travel book for someone special?

Go to our Books pages, where we have listed some of the best motorcycle travel books, as well as a number of BMW books, general motorcycle books, and travel guides.

There's links to Amazon USA, Amazon UK, Amazon Canada, and Amazon Deutschland, so no matter where you are - you can order books at great prices, and we'll make a dollar or a pound or a Euro, which goes a very little way to supporting this e-zine.

There's also links to search Amazon sites for all their products, books, CDs etc., and yes, we get a tiny piece of that too. We really appreciate it when you start your book search from our website! Thanks for the support!

NOTE: If you buy a book starting with one of our links below, we get a little bit to help support the website!

Book suggestions please!

If you have a book or want a book that you think other travellers would be interested in please let me know and I'll put it on the site. Thanks, Grant

Computer Haiku's

The Web site you seek cannot be located, but countless more exist.

Three things are certain:
Death, taxes and lost data.
Guess which has occurred?

Chaos reigns within.
Reflect, repent, and reboot.
Order shall return.

Program aborting:
Close all that you have worked on.
You ask far too much.

Windows crashed.
I am the Blue Screen of Death.
No one hears your screams.

Yesterday it worked.
Today it is not working.
Windows is like that.

Your file was so big.
It might be very useful.
But now it is gone.

Stay the patient course.
Of little worth is your ire.
The network is down.

You step in the stream, but the water has moved on.
This page is not here.

Out of memory. We wish to hold the whole sky, But we never will.

Screen.
Mind.
Both are blank.

"...Whatever you can do or dream you can do - Begin it...
... Boldness has a genius power and magic in it - Begin it now..."
-- The Alchemist-by Paulo Coehlo and the words of Goethe.

"Life is an onion. You peel it off one layer at a time, and sometimes you weep."
-- Carl Sandburg

"I wish I'd watched less TV."
--Billy Graham, when asked if he had any regrets.

"I am finally leaving Cape Town for a solo trip to Cairo and, money permitting -beyond. This is the realization of a childhood dream for me. I would like to thank you guys for a Fantastic web page, it has been an endless source of inspiration and information for me. Sitting on the southern tip of Africa sometimes makes one feel isolated, not so with HU around! Thanks again, and maybe we meet on the road some day."

James Mader, South Africa

"Happy travels and thanks again for such a great site with a wealth of info."

Chris Coombs, UK

Thank you for moderating the 4WD Forum on the HUBB, Chris.

"Just learned of this site from a RTWer I put up for a few days, great site and good luck to all"

Pat Horan, Canada

"Compliments for the site, I am using it such a lot and really appreciate your work!"

Ronald Colijn, Netherlands

"As one who flies both the Canadian & South African flags, your RTW journeys had my umpteenth visit to your site reading browsing and awed for the past few hours. My father rode an 'indian' in the thirties, I, regrettably missed out, thus the yearning; at least I can do it virtually through HU.com. Thanks to you both for an incredible 'Leekah.'"

Ken Huo cj, Canada

You're most welcome, Ken, but what's a leekah?

"Unfortunately we are stuck here in the UK for a while, the e-zine is now a life line for us though. Whenever we look at it, it just makes you want to get on the bike and go again. Keep up the good work."

Cliff & Jenny Batley, UK

"I'll certainly keep you updated, after all it's HUBB that got me into this in the first place !"

Bob Morley, UK

"simply the best motorcycle adventure site"

Brian Coles, UK

Gee, this sounds like a song title ;-)

"Glad to contribute, hope to do so again in near future. Thanks for doing an excellent job."

Steve Pickford

Thanks so much for your support, Steve!

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ISSN 1703-1397 Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' Ezine - Copyright 1999-2003, Horizons Unlimited and Grant and Susan Johnson. All rights reserved.

Redistribution - sending it on to friends is allowed, indeed encouraged, but other than the following requirements, only with permission. You may forward copies of the Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine by forwarding it yourself by hand. You must forward the issue in its entirety, no fee may be involved. Please suggest they Subscribe!

Legal gibberish: (particularly for those in countries that have more lawyers in one town, just for instance, New York, not to name any names, than some whole countries, as another example, Japan. Again, not naming anybody specifically you understand) Recommendations are based on positive or negative experiences of somebody, somewhere. Your mileage (kilometrage if you insist) may vary. We are not responsible in any way for any product or service mentioned, and do not warrant any such mentioned product or service, and are not responsible for any bad things that may befall you. You are responsible for yourself! Act accordingly. We check all links and information given as close as possible to publication, and all info is correct as best we can determine at that time.

News Items...

Ecuador land border entry problems

Ricardo Rocco, our Ecuador Community member who has been very helpful to many travellers passing through, is currently trying to solve the inconsistent and troublesome Ecuador land entry procedures with a petition to the government and all appropriate parties.

We fully support the petition, so we have created a web page here detailing the whole thing. Please have a look and sign it so that we have a large number of people from all over the world protesting. Your signature counts!

Update on Dalbir Jhol's bike being stolen

After last issues story about Dalbir Jhol's bike getting stolen in the UK, from Simon McCarthy, UK, came this note:

"A word of good news - I saw in the ezine that you ran the info about Dalbir Jhol getting his bike nicked in Leeds. Dalbir contacted me (we had met on the road in Nepal) I set my brother onto the theft as he's a policeman in Leeds - small world! Before the police could get anywhere on the case (which they didn't look like doing!) a local shopkeeper in Leeds, who Dalbir was friendly with, spotted the bike in a garden and stole it back! It is now languishing in my shed, missing plastics, battery and cases, but still a runner. Honda UK are looking to get the thing repaired (maybe) and I may be press-ganged into making pannier racks.

So ...goes to prove that bike security on the road in most parts of the world is much better than at home."

'East rolls out a new silken path to Europe' from the Guardian, UK

"One of the world's most ambitious road maps was approved in Shanghai yesterday when China, Japan and South Korea agreed plans for an 87,500-mile network of motorways, bridges and ferry routes connecting Asia and Europe.

Beginning with Asian Highway One, which will link Tokyo to Istanbul, it aims to create a modern version of the Silk Road, the camel route by which the occident and orient once traded with one another.

A draft proposal was finalised in November 2002. The 32 countries involved accepted the inter-governmental agreement in principle, but each still has to approve it. Yesterday 23 countries endorsed an expanded version of the plan at a meeting of the UN Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific.

Under the Asian Highway agreement trunk routes and spur roads will cross China's vast plains, the mountains of the Himalayas and the jungles of south-east Asia. The system will connect South Korea with Turkey, Bhutan with Bulgaria, and Finland with Sri Lanka."

Chernobyl ride

From Rob van Driesum in Australia, "Further to my posting several weeks ago about the woman who took a radioactive ride through Chernobyl on her Kawasaki Ninja, evidence has emerged that it's a fake. See here... Another illusion shattered..."

From BMW Press: "When HSBC bank, the second biggest financial institution in the world, needed a skilled motorcyclist to perform as a stunt double in its latest TV ad campaign, it enlisted the help of off-road instructor and Dakar rider Nick Plumb, who rode an R1150 GS on location in South America.

The 60-second commercial - which continues the bank's campaign theme of 'never underestimate the importance of local knowledge' - tells the story of a biker travelling through South America. We journey with him across different landscapes observing him and locals happily interacting, communicating using the OK sign, until he reaches Brazil where the OK sign is deemed deeply offensive. We see our hero rapidly escaping on his bike from a cantina where he has unwittingly offended the owner and fellow diners.

Nick Plumb and 'touring bike'

Filming the commercial required a support crew of 25, which travelled to some of the most remote locations imaginable in order to secure the most atmospheric shots. During a two-week period the crew filmed in Buenos Aires, Humahuach, Purmamarca, Mendoza, Wanda and Foz-do-lguacu, shooting Nick as he rode over all kinds of terrain from salt flats to mountain passes in the Andes.

'I had no idea of the lengths that advertising agencies have to go to in order to produce commercials of this quality," said Nick, who is an instructor on BMW's award-winning Off-Road Skills course for motorcyclists. "Some days we would have to ride and drive for hours in order to get to a particular location. What you see condensed into a 60-second commercial took more than two weeks to film, but if it inspires a few people to get on their bikes and travel, then it will have been worthwhile...'

The new HSBC commercial is currently airing globally."

Matt Pope, UK, Central and South America, Africa Twin, posted on the HUBB:

..."Hope to meet up with some other travel bikers in the space of the next year! Am beginning to believe that the site is one big hoax and that the pictures are all made up on Photoshop."

Ed. Comments: I'm sure that was tongue-in-cheek, but let's ALL send him an email just to reassure him!

Doris Maron, Canada, RTW, in Chile, on 750cc Honda Magna

"Santiago was wonderful and it was the people we met who made it so. Rafael was one of those people. I was given his name by Art, a Polish biker I met near Ushuaia. He said that if I needed any help at all while in Santiago, Rafael was the man to contact.

Rafael took Norma to San Antonio to pick up her bike. He hauled it back to Santiago and helped her get it ready for the road. The next day he took us on a ride to the ski hills (Rafael rides a BMW GS1150). We wanted to go to Valle Nevado, but less than half way up the clouds started rolling in. We stopped after the 15th switchback and turned back just as it started to rain. A very difficult ride for Norma's first day out, but she did great!

We rode south almost to Valparaiso before turning east on highway 40 towards the Argentina border. We rode into the Andes mountain range and (sadly) left Chile behind. The ride across the Andes was great! In one '10-kilometer' stretch, climbing to the summit at 3863 meters, we made 29 hairpin switchbacks. As we neared Mendoza it started to rain. We were glad to find a hotel and park the bikes for a couple of days. It's time for a much needed break."

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Mike Oughton, UK, through USA, Canada, NZ and Australia, R1150GS

"It's a beautiful day, with high wispy clouds and no wind. I'm refuelled (at what seems a reasonable $2.57 per gallon) and in Yosemite National Park by 0700. I virtually have the place to myself. I start by riding down the valley into Yosemite Village.

I ride up the road to Glacier Point, which has only recently opened...the views on the way up are impressive... but nothing prepares you for the view you get from Glacier Point.

I am stunned by how far I can see. For several minutes, I jut stand there, agog - oblivious to the chatter of the recently arrived minibus of oriental tourists. After about ten minutes or so, I take a few pictures, knowing that it will be impossible to capture even a fraction of the impact this place has had on me... Visiting Glacier Point is something everyone should do before they die..."

Simon Milward, UK, around the world, in Argentina, home built Rotax,

"UNICEF (the United Nations Fund for Children) in Argentina said they would take on board the new (to Argentina) health by motorcycle idea. They will help build a partnership with provincial health ministries and existing NGOs. The plan is for Charlie from Paraguay in due course to impart the skills he will learn in Zimbabwe to the Argentineans. Argentina's provinces get little help from the centre. This means that kids in the remotest areas get even less health care than those in Bolivia and Peru. At least medical workers in the latter are mobile, even though their motorcycles have no brakes.

Last weekend I addressed a crowd of 3,000 bikers on the streets of Mercedes, about 100km west of Buenos Aires. Chello, President of the Lobos Motorcycle Club, gave me the microphone at the start of the speeches. I was right at home as they say, doing my best to turn the whole thing into a demo.

Everyone seemed to be in favour. Even the Intendente (town mayor) echoed my calls for unity and a fight for fairness. I would say that the fledgling group is going to be strong quite soon. There are over ten legitimate motorcycle safety and rights campaigns to be won here.

The best moment of all came in Cordoba after my presentation at the Provincial Environment Ministry. The officials told me to lower the Argentine flag flying outside the building as we lined up the bikes for a photo session. They cut the rope and presented the flag to me! Wow. Now that is the best present of my whole ride, it brought a tear to my eye. We rode off, me resplendent in my new blue and white riding cape with a smiling face in the sun! What a great flag. Many thanks to Herman at Cordoba Backpackers and all my friends at the ministry.

In Mendoza I was a guest with the family of Fernando Bourio who is a member of Rutas y Motos, a network of help for travelling motorcyclists, or 'viajeros'. Here the well known Dr Alvino runs a foundation called Conin for reaching rural families in the mountains near the border with Chile. He wants to introduce motorcycles for his workers."

Hans Ole Jørgensen and friend, Denmark, in Bolivia, Yamaha Super Tenere,

"Someone stole my rear wheel... It seems impossible to find one here, do you have any suggestions. I'm in La Paz, Bolivia."

Ed. Comments: A few rounds of e-mails,

"Thank you so much for your fine help during the hard times when I was searching all over the place for a rear wheel for my motorbike. But as you see on the pictures, things are now fine.

But, but, but. There's a whole lot more to tell. Right now I just don't have the time, but later on I will contribute with good stories. If killing a local lady trying to cross the freeway outside La Paz is a good story. Because that's what happened just two days after I got hold of a new wheel, which by the way cost me 1,300 dollars. Auuw.

Well, I didn't go to jail, because I was totally innocent and had all the insurances, but I spent two days at the police station sorting things out.

So the trip to Salar De Uyuni was a good treat after that. Thank you once again for your kind help."

Mika Kuhn, Germany, around the world, in Cuba and Dominican Republic, Yamaha Tenere,

"Here is the route I took in South America: Kourou (French Guyana) along the coast to Suriname, Guiana, down to Boa Vista (Brazil), up into Venezuela, I missed the weekly ferry to Trinidad by two hours, along the coast into Colombia, Santa Marta, down to Medellin, Bucaramanga and to Cucuta, across to Venezuela and than to Caracas. In Caracas I put the bike into an airplane to Cuba. Getting the bike into the airplane in Caracas was difficult and I would not recommend doing it, it was illegal and I bribed the cargo guys in the warehouse.

Getting the bike out in Cuba took one and a half days, but with a bit of Spanish it was easy and straightforward. Another few hours to get a Cuban plate, no problem. I paid all up for flying the bike and getting it out: 500 USD.

The customs in Cuba told me that they had a British couple on BMW's and a Japanese rider on a Honda coming in this way into Cuba.

...I spent ten days in Cuba on the bike. I spend the first night in the airport and the second night in the house of a bartender I had met. Cheapest hotel would have been 40 Dollars, everything here is in Dollars for the tourists. Cuba is very touristy and very expensive for the tourists.

I took a sailboat from Cuba to Dominican Republic, easy, but I took the bike completely apart, and that's where I am now, in the Dominican Republic."

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Pete Corboy, USA, around the world, in Argentina, R100GS,

"Made it to TDF and am in Buenos Aires now (with a broken driveshaft). Lots of moto travelers here. I'll e-mail you an update for the e-zine tomorrow or whenever I get things squared away. I've been having great luck with the HU communities in South America. Everybody has been great.

Jason Grotte, Steffen Utzman, an Englishman I never see posting on your site and myself rode to Ushuaia and never experienced wind. You couldn't have even flown a kite. One cold rainy day and that was it. Just lovely.

... I'm going to ship the bike to Japan and ferry it to Vladivostok. I'll be in Mongolia for July (coming from Vlad). Pete"

Erik and Hanka Forkert, Germany, around the world, in Australia, Honda Transalp,

"Today with the last events from new South Wales and Queensland, the east coast of Australia. The Blue Mountains are for most newcomers the first trip goal from Sydney. We made the mandatory snapshot of the 3 Sisters (famous rock formation) and continued to drive into the mountains.

A permanent eucalyptus veil over the forests dips the whole area into a blue, hazy light, which gave the name Blue Mountains to the region. Here, we did not have so much luck with shrub camping. A group of young people regarded the clearing as the party location, which ensured that neither kangaroos nor wallabies dared into the proximity - our first shrub camping without animals!

In the morning we heard knocking on the tent awake - rains. The rain accompanied us all day long and many hundred kilometers to the north. Day after day we were bathed unexpectedly again and again between sunny sections.

... We made first acquaintance with one of the most poisonous candidates in the spider realm: directly before our feet tunnel Web by the grass. We exchanged our Badelat immediately for motorcycle boots. It helped - or the spider was not interested in tourists this night."

Simon Kennedy, Ireland, RTW, in Chile and Argentina, Transalp,

"Early start. Over the Andes. Skip breakfast to get moving. Touristy San Pedro de Atacama has the last gas station in Chile. I ask around for the distance to the next fuel. It is either 200 km, 400 km, or 'Far. Very far'. Best carry some spare. Spend my lunch hour failing to find gerrycans. Thankfully, the improvising overlander alternative is all around. Big plastic pop bottles. Where are these useful empty containers Simon? Why they are in the rubbish bins.

I tour the skips all over town. One of my finest hours. How do you explain to the well-heeled blond North American families that climbing through the stinking midday rubbish for coke bottles in full biking gear is part of a great adventure? Much better than being a common tourist. 'No, no, it is a great way to travel'.

A bemused and uneasy crowd gathers. Glad to provide diversion I emerge wiping putrefying vegetables from my shorts, sweat from my face and suppurating animal remains off my boots. The mothers gently shepherd their daughters toward the stuffed toy-llama stalls. Soon I have only my miasma for company. Oh, and six Seven-Up bottles. Success--it is always relative."

Ed. See Simon's new blog here on Horizons Unlimited. And this news item (don't know if this is supposed to be a secret, but it's not anymore!):

"Rachel and I are going to have a baby. It was conceived in Nicaragua (unknown to us) at 'unofficial' HU meet there and travelled Ruta 40 and on up to Buenos Aires on a KLR250, being blown over in the gravel, facing 120 km per hour headwinds and freezing foodless nights. An overlander by birthright, what do you think?

We are both very happy. We are tying up things here in Argentina. We plan to go back to London for a few months and then settle in Paris. This is not a case of sorry-for-themselves travellers spoiling a big trip. We are both really looking forwards to being parents. Personally, I needed a reason to end. Now I have a good one. Your's, Simon"

Ed. Just received May 24 as this is about to go out:

"And now we are three: Package arrived Friday morning. 3.2 kg. Healthy and happy, as we both are."

Ed. Following in Kirsten Latimer and Chris Burt's footsteps, babies conceived or born on the road are becoming a regular feature in this e-zine! And to think that s/he was conceived at an HU meeting ;-) We almost feel like we should be the godparents!

Rupert Wilson-Young, UK, Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, Yamaha Vino 49cc,

Hello, I'm a 24 year old Englishman who is riding his 49cc Yamaha Vino from the Arctic Circle to Tierra del Fuego. Mad you may think but ultimately possible. I've recently hit 10 thousand miles and am currently in San Pedro de la Laguna on lago de Atitlan in Guatamala. I do have issues though and I suppose things have been far from plain sailing. Does anyone know how to make my scooter faster at altitude or even move. Yesterday I had to walk uphill with the engine revving to just move. Virtually all power is wiped out. I still go on the flat but only about 20 k's max.

I know I'm not your usual biker guy, me being a scooter boy but I share the passion for the road. My happiest times are on the road living the dream and avoiding those bloody backpackers and tourists. Yours Rup Wilson-young."

Ed. It has two wheels and that's all that matters - more power to you for doing it on something unusual!

Jo-Anne Smith, Canada, to South America, in Brasil, on F650

"It was Sunday, the border post was deserted. Even the vaccination caravan, for those in need of a yellow fever jab, was unmanned. There was asphalt... ooooh.... after nearly a week of dirt and standing on the pegs it was very strange to be sitting on the bike - so low, so smooth.

My welcome to Brasil came in Caceres when a man and his son gave me a scooter escort to the Policia Federal. Much easier than directions in portuguese! The imigracion clerk scrutinized my passport for a long time. He made me very nervous, it felt like entering Canada. I hoped he wouldn't question the Bolivian stamp. How did I just appear at a land border with Perú but no stamps for Perú in the passport? He stamped me in for 90 days and then an 'oh shit!' look came over his face -- he'd forgotten to ask for my yellow fever certificate. Aduana would definitely have to wait 'til Monday... I needed lunch.

I wouldn't say there was nothing to eat in Bolivia; the saltenas (a juicy meat filled mini rugby ball) were yummy and the chocolate in Sucre is heaven. But I left the country very hungry. I gorged myself on fish in a floating restaurant. The fish I wanted didn't come with salad so I ordered a side salad too. Too much food... 18 inch plate of fish and veg surrounded by a garnish of salad, a 12 inch 'side' salad and a huge bowl of rice. There was barely space on the table for my cooler of beer! I was eating for hours watching the birds and boaters on the Rio Paragui. Que boa. Bem vindo a Brasil. Welcome to Brasil."

Ed. See Jo-Anne's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Geoffrey Siehr, USA, in Argentina, Kawasaki KLR 650

"After spending three weeks here in Buenos Aires I will finally leave tomorrow for Iguazu Falls. I'll spend a day at the falls and then head to Rio de Janeiro where Sandra (from Milan, Italy who has been in Buenos Aires since January visiting her sister) will fly into Rio in 6 days. We'll spend a week in Rio and then take the motorcycle up the coast and do some beach hopping for another week. Sandra will then fly back to Buenos Aires and I'll head up to Belem and a 5 day boat trip up the Amazon. At least that is the plan right now. The last three weeks, however, has taught me that schedules are made to be shattered.

I know the time 'feels' right to finally leave Buenos Aires and I am looking forward to getting back on the bike and experiencing Brazil. I have really enjoyed Buenos Aires and will never forget my time here. Now it's on to Rio and some serious samba."

Gareth Price, UK, Australia to UK, in Thailand, R1150GS,

"Bless them, the Thai Customs that is; they tried in vain for an hour to work out what the hell I had just handed them. My Carnet can be slightly confusing in the best of circumstances, however given it is written in English and without any warning, like the Malaysian customs a struggle commenced with lot’s of blank looks and utter frustration. Eventually I believe we got it stamped and signed in the appropriate way. Incidentally a "carnet de passage" is basically a passport for a vehicle, which allows you in brief to bring it into a country without you having to pay an import tax. Thus allowing you to leave the country with a stamp and signature proving you did not sell it. Making sense. Well try explaining that to a non-English speaking boarder guard."

Sjaak Lucassen, Netherlands, second around the world trip, in Colombia and Panama, on Yamaha R1,

Shipping north on a small boat from Colombia to Panama, writing to Camilo Delgado, HU Colombia Communities,

"I had a great adventure. I got on a wooden boat but it turned out that it had 200 kg of cocaine on board. The Panama coast guard was waiting for us but we stopped before on an island and that is where it must have been left. I got held for 5 days in the port but then got my stamp in the passport. From here I travel up."

Camilo replied:

"I'm glad you are ok. But I told you the risk of shipping your bike to Panama with any John Doe, especially in that kind of boat.

Drug smuggling is quite serious and because of a few people that do it, many millions of good and honest Colombians have to deal with the reputation that you know. That is why we need visas for almost every country in the world... Drugs are the main fuel of our war. I think you are quite lucky that you didn't get hurt or in jail for much longer.

I only hope that you will understand how serious this was, and you have the wisdom to tell everybody that there is nothing of adventure, or extreme, or cool, or whatever in such a story.

From now on I will have to be more cautious regarding recommending someone to cross to Panama by boat."

Ed. Note: We have been recommending for a long time that you do NOT try to ship across the Darien Gap by small boat. This is not the first story we have heard about such incidents. Getting dropped off at midnight on a secluded Colombian beach isn't my idea of a good way to save a few dollars.

Neva Williams, Australia, to Istanbul, F650GSPD,

"I arrived in Istanbul yesterday, overland from India, with my brother. He will ride on to Italy tomorrow. Tomorrow I need to get my bike serviced, F650PD, as the oil available in Iran was of the incorrect SAE.

I will probably be here for about 1-2 weeks as I have to arrange a freight co to ship my bike back to Sydney Australia around the end of April."

Seen on the Road, by Lisa Roberts and Harvey Gordon-Sawyer, in Delhi, India

"Hope you are both very well. We are fine and happy and enjoying India. We are continuing to welcome travellers to Delhi - enjoying swapping stories and offering support.

Neva Williams (Australia) flew in from Australia in January heading for Istanbul.

Simon James and Rachel (GB) flew in from Iran last week, heading around North India and then on to SE Asia and eventually Australia

We also met up with Richard and Lisa (NZ) again in Kerala a couple of weeks ago. After stopping off to see us in Delhi in December they headed South and seem to have explored most of India's fantastic beaches! They are enjoying India very much, but have had to leave their bike in Goa whilst they explore Southern India, due to a very bald tyre....

Lisa Roberts, Harvey Gordon-Sawyers, Lisa Godfery, Richard Parkinson

We also met up with Simon and Suzi (GB) in Kerala. They should be with us in Delhi by the end of March.

(Seen here outside our 5-Star Hotel in Cochin - thank you Xerox!)

Take care of yourselves. Lisa"

Contact Lisa and Harvey through the Delhi Community or via their website.

By Dan Walsh, UK, in Panama,

"Jerome, think I just spotted your KTM in Girag's cargo bay. I've sent the Dakar to Bogota, and I'm with an English couple on a GS who've shipped to Quito. Give us a shout if you want some nonsense. And Colesyboy, you too - email if you want any details."

Ed. Comment: As usual there's an army of travellers heading south, funnelling through Panama and on to Colombia or Ecuador. Keep in touch on the South and Central America Forum on the HUBB.

Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman, UK, around the world, R1150GS,

"Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman, will depart the United Kingdom in April to start an around the world adventure on a BMW motorcycle. The trip will see McGregor and Boorman cover almost 20 000 miles over some of the most difficult and diverse terrain on the planet.

McGregor's love of all things motorcycling is well known. The global odyssey will not be anything remotely approaching a holiday because - just to add to the challenge - Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman will make a film of their experiences en route. Appealing to a global audience, their entire journey, Long Way Round, will also be filmed for a unique television series which will be broadcast on major networks in key markets including the UK, US and Australia. Ewan and Charlie will also be keeping personal diaries and on their return they will publish their personal journals and pictures in a book.

Leaving Britain in April, McGregor and Boorman will travel across the Continent into East Europe and onto the Ukraine. From there, the planned route takes them to Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, Alaska, Canada, and the USA before returning home late in summer.

'It's such an obvious route,' McGregor insisted. 'It's just straight across - you just go from London to New York, going east. I'm surprised more people don't do it.'"

Ed. Guess what, Ewan, many people do it! We're surprised he doesn't know that, but he must not have found Horizons Unlimited yet ;-)

Steve Attwood, UK, across Russia, KTM 640 Adventure,

"I am heading east across Siberia in June. I have a double entry visa for Russia and planned to get a Visa for Mongolia in Irkutsk or Ulaan-UDE."

Bart van Linden, Netherlands, India home, by Enfield,

Need fellow traveller, fast!

"My supposed to be travelmate has decided not to do the trip. Stupid but okay. Looking for fellow idiot to drive back end of May 2004."

Ed. Comment: See the HUBB post if that sounds good! Matt Johnson and Sean Howman are doing much the same...

Matt Johnson, UK, Nepal to UK, Enfield,

"I'll be coming through in May. Leaving Nepal mid-May and on to Delhi. Will also be on an Enfield but will be in a hurry as have limited time. Not sure if Enfield and limited time are mutually exclusive but fingers crossed."

Sean Howman, Australia, BMW R65,

"I'm in southern India at the moment, and it's hot! I recently escaped the clutches of Chennai customs with my R65 and will be heading up the west coast of India to Mumbai before getting some visa's in Delhi. If anyone is in the vicinity drop me a line, it would be good to catch up.

Matt Pope, UK, Central and South America, Africa Twin,

"Thanks for the mail and assistance over the last 6 weeks. The trip will be Central and South America over the next year on an Africa Twin. I fly out to LA March 4 2004 and pick up the bike in Port Hueneme for what should be only a couple of hours to the Mexican border. This seems to be a very good option for sea freight from Europe and pretty cheap too.

I have 4 months to spend travelling to Colombia, will return to the UK for the summer and then back to Colombia for 6 months or so further south. I hope to have something setup in terms of a good webpage when I am back for the summer - Just 6 weeks ago, redundancy and plans for a bike trip were inconceivable and there has been no time to get setup to provide great info and pics. After the summer I'll have a nice page that can be linked to the HU site - please be patient!

Cheers for all your (and Susan's) efforts at the site. I look forward to contributing from the road. Matt"

Johan and Charmaine Claasens, South Africa, to UK, R1150GS,

"Hi Grant and Susan, Finally, after a life long dream, we are going to do it! On our way to UK from Cape Town. Charmaine and I (Johan) are getting married 5 June and leaving Cape Town 13 June to ride through Africa to Europe and maybe if it's God's will and we can earn some money on the way we'd like to go and tour the Americas to make it a RTW trip! We ride a BMW 1150GS and plan to do the ride in 4 months, arriving in UK just before the winter. Will we be able to handle a European winter? Well, I'll let you know. We will send stuff for you from Net cafés. I see there are very little bikers traveling Africa on your newsletter, why might that be? Keep up the good site and thanks, God bless you, Johan and Charmaine"

Ed. note: Why not Africa? Sadly, because many people think it's too hard! Some parts of Africa are indeed very hard to do on a bike, but much of it is quite easy, and overall it's a fantastic experience, especially the wildlife, scenery and people. We loved our 9 months in Africa, and would go again in a heartbeat.

Haydn and Dianne Durnell, Australia, Alaska to Ushuaia, Harley-Davidson,

"G'day Grant 'n Susan, well the weeks are becoming less. Just got the latest ezine and as always found it inspirational. Happened to click on the 'leaving soon' link, and lo and behold, a mention from the Forwood's about us.

May 2nd will be the departure date ex Brisbane to Los Angeles. The bike (and despite the well meaning advice and what most travelers think, is still the Harley) will be air freighted the week before. Too many horror stories about sea freight to risk it at the beginning of our adventure. (About A$2800.00) Will probably sea freight from Santiago back to Oz though.

We then plan a loop through to Grand, Glen,Bryce Canyons and Zion, before heading west to Yosemite and Santa Rosa to visit generous friends whom we stayed with over 20 years ago on our first trip to north america. We'll then head north and plan to be in Vancouver late May. (My 50th is on the 31st) Hope to catch up with you guys then if possible before doing a loop to Banff and then heading up to Prince Rupert and the Alaskan Marine Highway.

The personal challenge is still to go from Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia. Dianne is the navigator and route planner and I think she'll get us to most attractions. The trip will take just under 12 months and we estimate we'll enjoy about 80 000km of incredible scenery. It has been a long time in the planning (about 2 years). Everything is set and we're ready to roll.

Horizons has been an inspiration to Dianne and I and without reading of the exploits and adventures of other motorcyclists, I'm not sure we would have undertaken this adventure. We all owe you and Susan a debt of gratitude so from Dianne and I may I say a big thank you. Will no doubt be keeping in touch, Haydn & Dianne Durnell"

Story Leavesley, USA, RTW, BMW R100GSPD,

"I leave on May 1 to start my RTW trip in Sydney. The bike is prepped, cleaned, and is ready to be crated and shipped. Once I clear the bike in Sydney I'm heading north up the coast, and then into the Outback before jumping over to Southeast Asia. You can follow my preparation and progress on my web page. Many thanks to you for all the help planning my trip! Your web site has been invaluable, and I'm proud to have contributed financially to your site. I look forward to seeing all the other travelers on the road."

James Mader, South Africa, Cape Town to Cairo, Yamaha Tenere

"So, after years of procrastination and many months of confusion and panic I am finally setting off into the African sunset. I leave Cape Town this week for Cairo on my '85 Tenere. I like to say a huge thank you to all those who have encouraged me and provided me with mountains of invaluable information. Grant, Klaus, Fred.... there are too many to remember- thanks! You've helped realize a dream, at least the beginning of one. Hope to see some of you on the track. Jim"

Glen Heggstad, USA, around the world, R1150GS

"I just bought my ticket for Vladivostok, departing June 20th. I am having trouble finding a company to air freight my bike from Los Angeles. Any ideas? Thanks, Glen"

Ed. Comment: I recommend flying to Japan, not Vladivostok, and taking the ferry across to Vladivostok. Much simpler, as shipping and customs into Vlad is very difficult, and it gives you a chance to see Japan as well.

Dan Pettersson, Sweden, Alaska to Argentina,

"Hi fellow bikers I'm a 26-year-old Swedish guy who needs your help. I'll start a RTW-trip the 8 of July from Toronto up to Alaska then down to Argentina and so on and the reason I contact you is to see if anyone knows a garage/ place in Toronto that can store my bike from the 1 of May to the 8th of July. (My flight is the 25 April to New York and then I'll drive up to Toronto to catch a flight to Cuba) To make a long story short I have decided to fly the bike to New York as it's much cheaper than to ship it from Stockholm - Toronto but I have air tickets from Toronto to Havana where I'm going to study spanish for a couple of months to be prepared to talk with all the beautiful girls I'll see when I reach South-America :-) Any help is highly appreciated so if you know any MC-garage in Toronto please write me back where it is and, if possible, write down how I can get in touch with them. Many thanks in advance and hopefully I'll see some of you in July over a beer or two. Regards Dan"

Leah Chapman, Australia, and Dom Breen, Ireland, North and South America, temporarily back in Ireland after a crash and broken leg in Mexico

"Have been meaning to update the website but since I have been back at work in Ireland I only have 1 hour a week on the internet so I just get to respond to people who have emailed us and then it's off for another week. This will change when the construction site I am working on is up and running so will sort things out then.

I am fine. Badly broken leg that will take about 6-8 months to heal but will make a full recovery. The plan is to work until August then head back to Mexico and pick the bikes up and finish the trip. It actually works in our favour in terms of a better weather window to make the bottom of the world - so we're looking on the bright side. Leah and Dom"

Lois Pryce, UK, Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, Yamaha XT225 Serow,

"'Ladies and Gentlemen' announced the pilot in a faux RAF tone 'We will shortly be landing at London Gatwick, the ground temperature is three degrees celsius...'

Aaaaarrrrgggghhhh!

The two thousand mile ride from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires was everything one would expect from a clapped out bike and rider on their last leg of a long distance motorcycle trip. Minor breakdowns, flat batteries, jumping chains, seizing brakes, petrol crises, emergency roadside camping, hitching lifts with local lorry drivers, phenomenal oil leaks, convoluted border crossings, lunatic local drivers, dirt roads in the dark, a near exploding exhaust and of course, kind and generous people along the way to assist with each and every one of these incidents. Maybe it was just me slacking off but it seemed as if every aspect of adventure motorcycling was somehow being packed into one final fraught, yet fun-filled fortnight. Lest I forget...

So the adventure is over. Just the itch and scratch of a few mosquito bites to serve as a reminder of South America. And here I am once again in the real world of debt repayment, tax returns, insurance, MOTs, finding a job...hmmm...might be an idea for a new website - Lois On The Leash.

Or maybe it's time to start planning the next trip...

...watch this space, as they say...

My mobile phone number remains the same so please give me a bell. Hopefully see you very soon. Lots of love, Lois"

Ed. Yes, Lois, start planning the next trip!

Support the Horizons Unlimited E-zine - check out the HU Souk for jumpers / pullovers, t-shirts, hats and other products with the new logo and a variety of slogans!

Thanks! Grant and Susan

Mathias Ulf and Bernhard Fuerst, in Germany, from South America

"We started a motorbike trip through South America in the beginning of August 2003. The journey began in Buenos Aires and we travelled for 4 months through Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil and Chile.

After a warm welcome from new friends in Buenos Aires and the unproblematic importation of our bikes, we navigated in the direction of Entre Rios, Corrientes and Misiones, some of the states of Argentina. Passing waterfalls like the Saltos de Monaco or Catarates de Iguazu, we arrived in Bolivia via Bonito and the Pantanal in Brazil. We left Santa Cruz de la Sierra, to get closer to Samaipata, the most eastern station of the Inca Empire. Here the Andes saved us from the monotony of the flat country.

Continuing to La Higuera, we drove further to the most beautiful city in South America, Sucre. From there on it was a quick step to the Altiplano, Oruro, La Paz and down in the Yungas, the tropical island in the middle of the waste Altiplano. Because of political disturbances we dropped down to the south and traversed the Salar de Uyuni, to arrive in Chile, the most European country of the continent. There it was mostly sand and desert, gigantic copper surface mining and very long, straight highways.

Bolivian Altiplano

Later, when coming to Valparaiso, we saw some greenery. Valparaiso is a big city and worth seeing. From there we went straight ahead to the east, to Buenos Aires. There the motorbikes were shipped back to Germany; meanwhile Bernhard speeded back to Sucre, whereas Ulf and Matze relaxed partly at the beach. After barely 5 months our adventure was coming to an end and we met at the campfire in the Bahnwärterhäuschen for a glass of whisky. Just like nothing happened before..."

Katharina Eberl , Germany, to Indonesia and back across Russia, Suzuki DR350,

"I came home in fall. You know how it is: friends, family, boyfriend, slides, ...everyone is demanding... it was planned just stay over winter in Germany and start again, but now it looks like I stay for a while, have to earn some money, my boyfriend also wants to go with me next time... Anyway now I start living again and of course I will still be meeting bikers and travellers and helping people...so I thought best is to start a community in my own town as long I am there..."

Zacharias Ditoro, Canada, from Colombia

"I finally made it home last Thursday. It took 3 flights, 2 taxi rides and a 9 hour bus trip. I flew from Medellin Colombia to Miami Florida. Hung around in Florida for a few hours then flew into Chicago. Huge city! Flew from there to Vancouver. I stayed the night in Vancouver before catching the bus to Williams Lake.

The trip was fairly uneventful until the day after I arrived. I suddenly became extremely ill. I vomited all Saturday night, then slept for 2 days.

The fun didn't end there! Today I found out that my overpriced courier can only ship my motorbike to Toronto or Montreal! Thanks for nothing. They didn't seem to understand that Toronto is four thousand kilometers away!

Luckily, I have a great friend in Colombia who is helping me send my bike with another courier.

The final shock here was finding the three feet of snow in my driveway. Even in 4 wheel drive, I can't get up my driveway.

It sure is nice to be home and visiting with all of my friends and family."

Sharon Whitman and Bill Berwick, USA, around the world, on Harley-Davidson Sportster's

"... We stopped in Jackson Hole, Wyoming to add the perfect ending to our trip by getting married! We look back over the last two years to all the places we have been and all the wonderful people we have met and feel blessed to have been able to complete this incredible trip and return in good health. Well, mostly anyway.

To all of you who emailed us with your support, encouragement, and news from back home, we thank you from the bottom of our hearts.

Some Facts and Figures you may be interested in:
These are the First Sportster's to be driven around the world. Sharon is the First Woman to drive a Harley-Davidson around the world. Bill is the Fourth Man to drive a Harley-Davidson around the world. We completed over 100,000 continuous miles, in 63 countries, through six continents. We did 50 oil changes (25 each bike), 36 tire changes (18 each bike), and 2 drive belt changes (1 each bike). We are working on a book about our adventure, so please keep in touch if you are interested in hearing more."

Chris Jones and Spice Griffith, USA, around the world, back home temporarily, KLR650's,

"We are back in the States for a little while. After 25,000 miles and 7 1/2 months on the road we decided to return to Atlanta for a few reasons but mostly to sell our homes before we get over to Europe and Africa. We hoped we would be able to hang on to them as rentals but landlording from half a world away is a bit more of a task than we anticipated. That said, if we are still here in June (it looks like we will be) we will definitely be at the HU meeting in North Carolina. We have managed to miss every meeting by just a few weeks it seems. From all the people we spoke with in Argentina the Viedma one was pretty cool and Copper Canyon one we missed last Fall was pretty neat as well. We look forward to meeting all the like-minded travelers, yourselves included. While we are home I am also doing some work on the KLR's to bring them back up to speed after the beating they took on the Carretera Austral and Ruta 40. I will keep you posted on our status as the date looms closer."

Three (3) ways to support your favourite website!

Check (or cheque ;-)

Frank Butler, Papua New Guinea, around the world in 1000 days, F650GS,

"My apologies for my long absence, I have not written since India and have had many kind enquiries as to my whereabouts. So to set the record straight here is a Flash up-date.

I left India on their Independence day which was a bad move as no one else was travelling and they only had me to play with...so they did for four hours. When I crossed in to Pakistan it was a breath of fresh air Welcome - Stamp - Bye. I went to Islamabad and had a operation for Piles (pain in the arse that was) I stayed with a great guy called Ian Robinson from the British Council while I was recuperating and then move west toward Iran...had many adventures (they will all be covered in the Book, Chapter five). Iran was incredible, absolutely wonderful people, I got snowed in, overstayed my Visa and got to meet many Bureaucrats, found out that you can't change travellers cheques or use a Credit card...that's covered in the book also.

Got into Turkey, had some serious culture shock - it's just like Europe. Stayed in Istanbul and loved it. Then rode to Greece ...prices were increasing with every westward mile. I took a Ferry from Greece to Italy, couldn't get over how well dressed everyone was, me being a bit of a fashion Guru myself. I stayed low and south as close to the sea as possible to keep away from the snow. Rode along the Italian Riviera into Monaco, Had a little ride along the French Riviera and the headed up the Loire Valley staying low again to avoid the cold, then down the Rhone Valley and made my way to Cherbourg. I took a Ferry to Bournemouth in England where my brother Leo, was waiting to meet me. Spent some time with Leo and his wonderful Family and then went up to London to see my Mother and the rest of the family for Mothers Day (I'm such a good Son).

Now I am staying with me dear old mum for a couple of months organising a trip to Moscow and back with my brother, and trip to Ireland with a good friend that I met in Malaysia. I have made a start on The Book - 'Freedom behind Bars' and I am trying to put a documentary scenario together for a trip to Africa...plus I have to sort out my mum's garden. I hope this Post Card finds you all well, and that you have as much fun this year as I did last year. Love to All ...Fank"

New Communities:

Contacting the Iron tigers in Vladivostok just got a lot easier! One of our new Communities this month is Vladivostok, headed by one of the Iron Tigers, Alexey Gaidukov, known as "Shustrik" on the HUBB.

We've got 272 communities in 68 countries as of May 10, 2004!

A big thanks to all those who took the first step and established the Community in their area. New Communities are in Vladivostok, Russia; Cairns, Australia; Dominical, Costa Rica; Esfahan, Iran; Vermont, USA; Santa Cruz, Bolivia; Cabo San Lucas, Baja Mexico; Charleston, Virginia, USA; and São Paulo, Brazil.

If you are on the road, do check out the Communities - don't feel like you're imposing on people! They signed up for a Community because they want to meet travellers - that's you! You'll have a great time, so go to the Communities page and let them know you're coming.

For details on how you can join a Community in your area, or use the Communities to get information and help, or just meet people on the road or at home, go to the Community page. Send me some photos - with captions please - and a little text and you can have a web page about your Community! A few links to web pages about your area would be useful too.

Just a reminder to all, when you Join a Community in your area, send a note to the Community introducing yourself and suggesting a meeting, or go for a ride or something. It's a good way of meeting like-minded individuals in your own town.

Please recommend

Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine
to a friend! Just forward it to them, or send them the link to the newsletter on the website.

I am working on a listing of people who have ridden around the world, as well as what I call 'significant journeys' e.g. the first across Africa. Any information you may have on this topic, please let me know. Preferably e-mail me direct. I currently have information on over 100 world travellers listed, but there are many more. Have YOU done it? Let me know!

We hope you've enjoyed this issue, and do please let us know your thoughts. It's your newsletter, so tell us what you want to know about!

It is not the unknown, but the fear of it, that prevents us from doing what we want...

All text and photographs are copyright © Grant and Susan Johnson and their respective authors or creators, 1987-2004.
All Rights Reserved.