www.HorizonsUnlimited.com e-zine, The Motorcycle Travellers' News! May 2012, 91st Edition

"...I knew I slightly cracked the crust of the sand when I arrived a week ago, so I backed up before loading the sidecar...

When the wheels spun in the, now, soft sand in 2WD reverse, I heard a strong unique metal snapping noise. My blood froze! I had to push myself to think methodically in order to install the sand tracks... I knew the noise I heard would not just disappear... I was able to move back only a few inches until when I heard a bad grinding noise! I was out of the ditch but not out of trouble. The gearbox was stuck in reverse, the final drive was grinding, my blood was still frozen. It took two and half hours before a fisherman drove by to pull me out of the ditch in the direction of the main road 2 miles away. But after 500 yards, the wheels blocked and that was the end of it!

The fishermen went to the next small town to get me help leaving me in my misery. I worked to move the wheel on its axle to disengage if from spinning the final drive so I could roll the sidecar again. The tow truck arrived 2 hours later, before I was finished. Needless to say, the tow truck guy ripped me off me big time!"

Ed. Hubert is waiting for parts in Namibia. See the rest of the pictures on his blog!

Miguel Silvestre, Spain, RTW, in the Philippines,

Ed. Miguel is filming his trip and posting on YouTube. See his travels through Borneo, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Kurt Nugent, USA, in California,

"I'm back on the road! This is my old final drive. The part in front is the part that failed. There are splines on the bottom shaft that you can see if you look closely. Near the gear in the center the spline were worn beyond belief. For this part to disengage from the unit it is usually necessary to heat it to 200 degrees C. The tolerances are that tight. Mine just dropped out cold.

This part wobbling also caused damage to the brake rotor and it also had to be replaced. Parts, labor, and CA taxes... $3100 out the door!"

Rocky and Paula, Canada, two earthlings ride around the world, in USA,

"Paula and I spent the next day riding around Canyonlands National Park. We arrived shortly after noon and decided that we'd ride along Potash Road. We took the route that lead along the edge of the canyon and rode down a switch-back that descended into the canyon. Halfway down, Almeida's rear brake completely failed, leaving me only with front braking power. After safely making our way to the bottom of the canyon, I allowed the bike to rest. I assumed that the heavy use of the brakes had caused the fluid to overheat and fail. It was a good opportunity to take a few photos, and, after a short cool-off period, the rear brake seemed to return to normal. Potash Road is an unpaved dirt and rock road that cuts through the canyon and leads back towards Moab.

Having not had the time for the hike to Delicate Arch the previous day, Paula and I decided to return to Arches National Park. The walk from the parking lot to the arch took almost an hour.

We took some photos and hung out around the arch for a while. With very little daylight left, we decided to return to the bike and head for dinner."

Sherri Jo Wilkins, Australia/USA, RTW, in Peru, KTM 690 Enduro,

"Exploring the ruins of Pisaq in the late afternoon is a pleasure after all the tourists have gone and only the locals are left...

Finally another major life goal reached! I have wanted to see Macchu Picchu since high school... and well worth the wait... love it!

Paul and Angie, UK, RTW, in New Zealand, Yamaha XT660Rs,

"...Next stop and only 30 miles south east of Dunedin we headed to the Otago Peninsular hoping to see some albatross, sea lions and Blue Penguins. The coast road out to Portobello on the tip winds its way beside the sea and just the ride needed to get us back in the saddle again. We spotted some sea lions but the albatross and penguins were out to sea. We found a nice gravel road to take us along the western side which as luck would have it spat us out onto the tarmac and into a nice camp ground with cheap winter rates. The first night in the tent in NZ was pretty cold but cosy in the sleeping bags. Angie knocked up an excellent breakfast, egg and bacon sarnie and a mug of tea. Only managed five miles before I got a puncture in my back tyre, the first of the trip so couldn't complain.

At least we had a view out to sea while I fixed it and Angie got the stove going for a quick cuppa. All squared away and 45 minutes later we shoved off again. I had found a gravel road route along the south coast to Invercargill while researching the south island so we headed out of Dunedin toward the coast road at Waldronville."

Brian Kennedy, Canada, in Colombia, Aprilia ETV 1000 cc CapeNord,

"With my gear now packed up on the bike and ready to ride away, a few of the hotel employees came out to see me off and take a few souvenir photos of the foreign motorcyclist. I followed Hwy 45 south out of town stopping at the first gas station along the route. While I was fueling up a bike another rider on a Suzuki VStrom 650 rode into the gas station and pulled up along side me. we got to talking, he was an American working down here with an American based mining company involved in gold exploration. There was a little coffee shop across the roadway from the gas station, I invited him to sit down and share a coffee and a few road stories.

I told him that I was heading down to San Agustin, but was not sure if I would first make a trip over to La Plata and then make my way up to see the archaeological ruins around Tierradentro. When I mentioned that I had planned on taking route 45 down to La Plata and from there ride up to Inza to visit the archaeological at Tierradentro before heading for San Agustin he mentioned that he had taken the road out from Popayan to Inca and down to La Plata and from there took route 43 north to where we were presently stopped. This was the same route I was planning on taking. He told me it had been two days of hard riding over absolutely miserable road conditions.

Some sections of the road from Inza to The ruins around Tierradentro were nearly impassable. Route 45 North of La Plata was under construction and with all the frequent stops because of the construction activities and poor road conditions, it made for a long day's travel. His comments and advice were enough to alter my travel plans and instead continue along route 43 to San Agustin. Instead of only spending 2 days in San Agustin, I would add another day to my sight seeing around the San Agustin area.

Route 45 down to Pilalito and San Agustin is along a very good paved road. Traffic for the most part was light and the traffic that I did encounter was usually some slow moving truck or bus. Route 45 parallels the course of the Magdalena River or the Yuma River as it is also called in these parts. Pass the town of Altamira the roads starts to get interesting as the roads starts to climb in elevation and the scenery becomes more interesting."

Brad Cougle, Canada, Calgary to Argentina, in Peru, Suzuki V Strom 650 ABS,

"...Connor and I joined an underfoot grape crushing wine tour. Sounds gross…and it is. The crushing is ok once you get dirty, but the fact you are drinking foot pressed wine from the group the week before, yuck! Just pisco (super fermented wine about 40% alcohol) yourself up and you'll forget everything. Highly recommend!"

Grape stomping tour in Huacachina, Peru - Nadja (Latvia) really jumping into it!

David Bailey, UK, Single ticket to Sarajevo, in Netherlands and Germany, Aprilia Pegaso,

"Today has been a steep learning curve. You should never leave things in your cabin when you leave the ship. If you are going to do this, make sure it is something inconsequential, like socks, not your wallet. If you do do this, then remember to go back before you have covered 20 kms.

I think you can see where this is going. So I returned to the ferry and the people at reception went to have a look. I was thinking my trip is going to be very short, but I was soon reunited with my wallet and the 600E that was in it! Absolute plonker I know, should of got up earlier.

...Into Germany and after 10 minutes of going silly on the Autobahn, I settled down to a steady 130kph which was just about comfortable. I was amazed at how many wind turbines there were, even more than Holland. Mid afternoon i noticed Betty was dancing a bit and a quick look at the front wheel confirmed I was losing pressure fast.

We limped off the motorway and parked up. Poor old Betty, this was hardly her fault but there she was no front wheel and sat on my topbox for all the world to see. Henerick stopped to offer help but then I was saved by Spencer. I had found a great translator, with a car and with all the time in the world!

So my luggage, my wheel were loaded into his car and off we set to find someone who could help me. Eventually we found a bike shop run by an old fellow and his wife, in what looked like, his front room! Whilst he put a new tube in, I was treated to coffee and an entertaining chat with Spencer. We finally returned to Betty who looked so forlorn sat on her forks, but I think her mood changed when we replaced the front wheel.

Spencer would have nothing for all of his troubles and made sure I got back on the Autobahn OK. It is a humbling experience to be treated so well by complete strangers. Very good for the soul I do think! Spirits lifted, I was back on the road again...

So I finally arrived at my campsite at Hargen, just south of Bremen. It was a little way from just about everywhere, so quiet, too quiet really. I chatted to a fellow with his little son who had travelled around the country in an ingenious motorcycle combination. There was enough room for the child's bike on it!

Danielle Murdoch, Australia, Australia to Africa, in Kenya, Suzuki DR350,

"Long before we hit the outer city ring of Nairobi we were already crammed between hundreds of cars travelling at five kilometres per hour. This was going to be a killer for the bike. I could not only feel the temperature rising from under my motorcycle gear, I could feel the heat rising from beneath me. I wanted to look for a faster way through the traffic but I didn't have the directions to the infamous Jungle Junction camp site plus I wasn't on my own, I had to think about the two other motorcyclists...

I needed another escape route. I spotted one on the far side of all the traffic. The guys thought I was crazy, but I knew what the trick was.

Standing on my foot pegs, I make eye contact with each driver, mouthing "Jumbo Brother, Can I go in front of you?" A massive smile breaks across their faces when they realise I'm a woman and then they nod vigorously. A few minutes later a path has been opened up for us and we jump to take the chance to inch not only forward but across the traffic. We repeat this action until we are sitting next to the foot path, where I had seen a bus lane under construction. We followed a stream of traffic that already had the same idea as me. But something was wrong, the troublesome bike was becoming more and more stroppy... "

Ed. Great stories and heaps of pics on Danielle's blog. Danielle will be interviewed (from Africa via Skype) for the HU Australia meeting!

Darius and Jane Skrzpiec, RTW, in Israel,

Following the steps of Jesus, we camp a few days at the sea of Galilee and proceed to Nazareth. Of course we have to walk along the Via Dolorosa and see where Jesus supposedly died. Also we spend some time at the Western Wall and watch the Jews pray.

Israel is a crazy place. You could be amongst the Ultra Orthodox Jews in the morning and find yourself in between religious Moslems within 15 Minutes. and be assured that you'll step upon plenty of Christians too!

Finally we find a possibility to reach Europe by cargo ship and we're enjoying the 3 days passage!"

Ian Moor, UK, Wrong Way Round The World, in Peru, BMW F650GS,

"Life gets pretty scary when you suddenly find it necessary to look up the Spanish for 'Why did you have to split the crankcase?' I went to the workshop to see if the ordered parts had arrived and... they hadn't. Then I noticed that the engine was now out of the frame. I found it under a dust sheet in many many pieces spread across a workbench with the crankcase open and no sign of the barrel, piston or rings which I wanted to have a look at to see exactly what had failed and hopefully why it had failed. Dates for the parts to arrive come and go without the parts making an appearance. The mechanic working on my bike is rarely in the workshop and none of the others really know what is going on but they confidently give me a new date for when the parts will arrive and ask me to check back then.

Cusco is as good a place as any to be stuck in while waiting for the bike to be repaired. It's small enough to walk everywhere but big enough to offer a variety of walks and places to visit."

Graham Holden, UK, RTW, in Argentina, BMW R100GS PD,

"After spending four days relaxing in Rio Gallegos it was decision time, do I head down to Ushuaia and risk more damage to my shoulder or head north on the sealed roads, for once I think I made the right decision and headed north, it was still hard on the shoulder, with the winds and some rain.

I'd been given a some directions to a Moto bar in Comodoro Rivadavia, so after a long day in the saddle, I reached the bar with the help of a local rider, Marcello invited me in, gave me a bed and fed me. His family was great, he wouldn't let me leave till my shoulder had recovered enough to ride the bike more comfortably, he got me drugs and cream for the shoulder. It is a great place, but it only came to life after eleven, then the place began to rock, one evening they had a live band on, the first set started at two in the morning, needless to say I didn't get to bed till gone five in the morning, not your usual travellers schedule."

Eric and Gail Hawes, USA, in Greece, Turkey, Armenia and Georgia,

"Every time we travel in Turkey, and this is the third time, we either get a ticket or breakdown, or both. Two days it rained at noon and so we found shelter in a restaurant. Once a policeman was there and purchased for us a candy bar. Very nice but the next time we saw a policeman it was something else.

This time it was a ticket, we know not for what? Some radar offense. They just gave it to us and told us to pay at the border. They put it on the computer. But when we reached the border they asked for no money and we gave none.

Getting out of Turkey was much easier than getting out of Greece. In exiting Greece they wanted to see our Green Card. We had none as we intended on buying it in Turkey as we had done before. They finally let us go. When in Turkey getting a visa was very easy, just a small sticker on the passport. But no green card as it was the weekend. So the customs agent took us to an insurance agency where he helped us get Turkish insurance. He was very helpful.

Armenia and Georgia were not helped by 70 years of Soviet rule. They are even behind the Baltic States but of course more isolated.
Some of the roads here are very bad and we rode on a few. Very slow but Gail has seen places in Armenia that no American woman has ever seen and probably wouldn't want to see.

We have been in Russia 3 times on our moto and still remember 10 words. Still very helpful when speaking to older persons who were forced to learn Russian.

Here there are very few two wheeled vehicles. Few bikes, scooters, or motorcycles. But this makes riding much easier then riding in Athens or Rio, Brazil.

Now we plan to leave our moto in Tbilisi and return next year. Want to join us? Don't forget to come and visit us in Oregon. Our moto rally this year will be 23rd to the 25th of June. But you are welcomed anytime. Eric and Gail still on the unpaved roads."

Seán Patrick Dillon, Ireland, Alaska to Argentina, in Mexico, Honda Cub,

"...Taka my Japanese motorcycling amigo and I set off for the rebel controlled town of Obentic about 45 minutes ride from San Christobal de Las Casas where we had been staying.

In 1994 a group of rebels taking their name from Emilio Zapata the deceased Mexican revolutionary leader from the early 1900's, staged an uprising in an attempt to form an autonomous state of Chiapas and to highlight the plight of the indigenous people; the direct descendants of the ancient Mayans. The Zapatistas seized control of 5 cities in Chiapas as well as the government buildings in San Chrisotobal de las Casas. The Mexican government responded with superior military force but the uprising was not fully quelled. To this day they operate an autonomous area and government separate from Mexico. Though this is not officially recognised by Mexico of course.

...We arrived at the gate to the village and are met by two men in balaclavas looking very menacing. They ask us what we want. With my limited Spanish I ask for permission to enter the village. A clip board is produced and we are asked to provide our personal information and the reason for our visit. Being from Ireland appears to hold some sway with them as they acknowledge Ireland's historical past."

Belinda Sinclair, UK, Scooters Ride the World, in Greece and Turkey,

"We've done heaps today... including sorting out the bikes properly this morning before we left. Mine wouldn't start though,and Nadine had to push me round the hotel car park so that I could bump it. Still wouldn't start though, by which time we were both dripping with sweat. Then I remembered that I'd leant over the bars to check a strap ...and knocked the kill switch. (Note to self - don't do that again as it makes Nadine swear - a lot - and call me rude names) But the exercise can only have done her good.

So after that, we got back on the motorway and headed for Turkey, 140kms away. Like yesterday, the roads were virtually empty, and we ate the miles.

Riding with the scoots unloaded is very good. They are so light and flickable that it just makes you want to ride them into inaccessible places, which I tried this morning but fell off and broke the one remaining mirror. The ground was just too soft after a landslide.

We spent the next 10 mins pulling it out of 30cms of mud. Couldn't have done that with a bigger bike. Got a bit muddy ourselves too, esp. the boots."

Greg Powell, Canada, exploring the Americas, in Argentina, Honda Varadero,

"'Don't go there, it's dangerous' - stranger on the street when I told them I was going to La Boca.

I am so tired of hearing this 'Don't go there, it's dangerous' and then the rants of all the bad things that are going to happen to me. Ever since I pulled out of my drive way 8 months ago I have been bombarded with warnings of my inevitable death. Nobody trusts their neighbour, in the next place I will surely die, but first I will be tortured. One day I will die, but first I will live.

'Don't go there, it's dangerous' - that expression makes me want to go even more. I always go, I always meet the best and most interesting people and I am always warned against the next place, but never the place I am in. I ask people 'what happened to you when you went there' and the answer is always the same 'I have never been there'.

La Boca was a fun and interesting place bright and colourful with lots of street shows and endless opportunities to be entertained. I felt safe, so many tourists, all bussed in because they were afraid. I walked the 30 minutes from my hostel and got a blister, I need new shoes, next time I will ride over."

Ed. Greg, we've heard that line 'Don't go there, it's dangerous' so many times over the years, and almost always the person has never been there!

Leaving soon below...

Photo Contest!

2012 Photo Contest is now on!

The contest is now an annual event, where you can showcase your best photos, and they can help inspire others to get on the road too. The best 13 photos will be used in the calendar, and those photographers will share equally in half the proceeds. All winners get a free 2012 calendar, and 1 year Gold Member status on the HUBB.

Grand Prize for 2012 is a South America Tour with Compass Expeditions! 28th Dec 2012 to 5th Jan 2013 - This wonderful 9 day tour by Compass Expeditions explores the scenic wonderland of the famous Chilean Lakes District, the frontier lands of Chiloe Island and the epic riding experienced as you cross the Andes and ride into Argentina. As with all Compass Expeditions rides the lucky winner will be aboard a BMW F650GS Twin. Approximate Value at time of writing: $3,990.

First Prize - For Suzuki DL1000 / 650, Kawasaki KLR650, BMW F650GS / F800GS entries wins a Progressive Suspension Makeover, approx value US$650, shipped to your door.

To enter the 2012 contest, start here!

Help support the Horizons Unlimited E-zine - visit our sponsors!
Please be sure to tell them how you heard about Compass Expeditions. Thanks!

Leaving soon, or just left.

Ekke and Audrey Kok, Canada, Circumnavigation of Asia,

"Hello fellow Horizons Unlimited community members! Audrey and I are leaving for a one year circumnavigation of Asia at the beginning of July and we would like to have a Bon Voyage BBQ in Redwood Meadows. It would be great if you could make it out on Sunday, June 10 at 1:00 PM for some burgers and hot dogs. Please let me know if you can make it so that we can order the right number of burgers. Jordan and Sandra may be back from their trip to South America at about that time so it could be a Welcome Back BBQ as well. Ekke"

Ed. Many of you know that Ekke and Audrey are the organizers for the HU Canwest meeting, which they will miss this year, but for the best of reasons! We are hopeful that others will help out to make the meeting a great success again!

Heike Wanner, Switzerland and Filippo Fania, Germany, Europe to Australia and beyond, BMW F650G and BMW R1150 GS,

"I have to tell you a story. It is a romantic story. It is a happy story. It is a story with coincidences. It is my story. And it is now our story.
... and a lot of it is the fault of two people: Grant and Susan Johnson from Horizons Unlimited.

Prologue

During the last few years a lot changed - inside me, and in my life. I lost loved ones, I got desperately disappointed and deeply hurt by people, I was searching furiously for a way and a meaning in my life. But during this difficult time I also had great experiences showing me the best (and the worst) in some people, and showing me my true friends.

At one point, I realized that I eventually had to do what I was always dreaming of since I was a child - to 'throw off the bowlines', to 'sail away', to explore different cultures and countries, to meet people and to find adventures. At the same time, I gave up finding the right partner, my other half with whom I could share life, thoughts and ideas; the one, that would care and love me, that I could love and care for in return, and that would give me a meaning in my life.

Heike Wanner on the trails at HUMM 2011.

Heike on the trails at HUMM 2011

Part 1 - where two like-minded people meet

So, I started planning the trip - my adventure - alone. I was looking for information and I came across Horizons Unlimited - a website with lots of information for motorcycle travellers. Grant and Susan, who are behind it, also organize travellers meetings around the world. And it was at a Horizons Unlimited meeting in Germany that I met Filippo. A big coincidence, because Filippo had spontaneously decided to go there only that day - without this decision we would have never met.

I admit, I didn't fall in love with Filippo immediately - mainly, because I had decided for myself that the other half to complete me, the right partner, simply doesn't exist - so I didn't expect to find him suddenly standing right there in front of me. But Filippo fascinated me from the beginning, and I couldn't get him out of my mind after the meeting.

Part 2 - where it gets serious

We were exchanging emails, and we decided to go to the Horizons Unlimited Mountain Madness in the Pyrenees together. It was whilst travelling down to this meeting - organized by Grant and Susan, of course - where we finally and entirely fell in love. We found out that we have the same dreams and ideas - and so it didn't take long after we had returned home until Filippo suggested that he could come with me on the trip.

Filippo Fania, squashed into sidecar after his bike broke at the 2011 HUMM!

Filippo, squashed into sidecar after his bike broke at the 2011 HUMM!

Part 3 - where we grow together

I was really happy when Filippo said that he would like to join me. Although, I had always enjoyed the freedom of travelling alone, to do what you want to do without asking anybody, I also desperately missed somebody to share the experiences with, especially the very beautiful and the very bad moments. At the same time, I was also a bit scared - I mean, we didn't really know each other very well then - and for doing such a big trip together you should be sure to have the right travel partner.

But on the other hand, it just felt so right to go with Filippo. So, I didn't hesitate long, and I was simply happy to have him with me.
From two single travellers we turned into two that are sharing a dream, and that are going to live it: 2 live the dream.

Part 4 - where it gets really serious!

As I said, it just feels so right to be with Filippo - he is really like the other half that is completing my life. I have the feeling that we together can go through everything - and he is the most loving and caring person I have ever met.

I love him so deeply and without doubts that it just felt right to ask him only five months after we met, whether he would marry me. Something I had never even thought about before! And I had tears in my eyes when he said: yes! We are now going to get married in January 2012.

Epilogue

I personally want to thank Grant and Susan for setting up the website, the traveller meetings and the HUMM - not only because they provide very valuable information and a great network, but also because without all this Filippo and I would have never met.
This is not the Happy End - this is just the very Happy Beginning - everything is just starting, and we are now really looking forward to share our lives, to share our dreams and 2 live the dream together!"

Ed. The only thing better than a motorcycle travel story is a romantic motorcycle travel story! Congratulations to Heike and Filippo, and we're very happy to have played a part in bringing them together :-) They have just left Europe for Asia and we will look forward to reading their travel stories!

BugsonmyBoard, Baja Motosurf 2012,

"Funny how some things you just don't think all the way through until enthusiasm pushes you to a place where it's tough to turn back. I was in my driveway, trying to figure out how I might lash 4 days worth of water to my bike with everything else that I've got attached. In a week I would be riding into the Baja desert alone and I only just then started thinking about such basic practicalities.

Getting the bike ready for Baja.

...I did some preparation for things most likely to break. I installed heavy duty tubes and carried a spare front and rear tube along with my tire repair gear. These things are way thicker than the stock tubes, but I imagine that nothing will stop a long enough cactus spine or a nail from piercing your tube if it is so determined. I've used thread locker on lots of bolts that could vibrate their way out after days on rocky tracks. My buddy Rob in New York mailed me some wider foot pegs that he had kicking around to keep my dogs happy during long standing stretches. I also mounted a spare set of clutch and throttle cables zip-tied right alongside the functioning ones so that it would be a piece of cake to fix when one breaks on a hot, dusty track somewhere.

Bugsonmyboard, bike with surfboard.

Have board, will travel!

Time to load her up and give it a go..."

Neil and Clarissa, Australia, RTW, in Malaysia,

"Three buckets of beer later, (1 bucket = 5 beers) we met Joe 'Fingers' a New Zealand bloke with a great personality with awesome shirts to match... This is also where we met Nigel a British fellow who ended up chatting about motorbikes. At this stage he questioned whether or not we had met the French bloke who has the BMW GS down the road, who was also travelling around the world. The thought of another BMW nearby was too good to pass up. So after a great feed and icy cold beers (the only way to combat the Malayan heat), we went for a walk, found the BMW but no French man. Due to the amount consumed that afternoon and night before we decided to stay another night... That's the thing about Melaka. We just keep saying yep another night.

Neil and Clarissa with bikes.

Later on that afternoon Neil came in the room informing me of how he had met the French man along with some other local and internationals at the Honky Tonk Haven Cafe. So he headed back while I had to complete a few more things. Around an hour later I headed down to see Neil sitting there with some lively characters surrounded by buckets of beers. I knew this would be a fun night. Dinner was all you can eat Indian for only $12 ringgit! Which they do once a month or so I was told. They also had live Jazz music which was so lively."

Some of our new Malakian and International friends.

Some of our new Malakian and International friends

Julio (Guaterider), Guatemala to Alaska, BMW R1200 GS ADV,

"Two more days and the long expected day arrives: I will be leaving from Guatemala with the hope to make it to Alaska. After years of meeting so many of you guys on your way down south or up north, now finally it's my turn.

My wife will meet me next month in northern Mexico and from there on we will be two up on our R1200 GsAdv.
We have no fixed route and a very almost no time limits; any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Looking forward to meet some of you guys on the road! Julio"

Ed. Follow Julio's trip in the HUBB Ride Tales Forum!

Fern, UK to New Zealand,

"I live life on the edge... (of the Fens, and the Brecks, so in the middle of East Anglia, United Kingdom). I work a little more than 9-5 in an office, in deepest Norfolk, and when I'm not doing that, I like to be out and about on my Motorbike.

I was told several years ago that I wouldn't be able to ride a motorbike due to health reasons, and that was a red rag to a bull (I reckon these doctors tell you these things either because they are incompetent or as a genuine attempt to get you going), and I had to prove a point, get better and take my full test.

I have bikes in my blood. Since I could walk I have sat and watched plenty of bikes being pulled apart and re-built, and dragged around many an autojumble.

Fern, pic by James Owens.

Fern, pic by James Owens

I have been inspired by other bikers, especially women bikers. Now that my back is healing, I have been testing it out gently, firstly by going to weekend bike rallies to get it used to camping for one night, then two. This took about a year, and then I decided to do 15 days in Norway, Denmark, Germany and Netherlands. This was fantastic. I was lucky enough to visit China (Xiamen) in January for work, and this really opened my eyes up to a world beyond the autobahn.

Next plan is evolving at a rapid rate of knots, I'm now looking at London to New Zealand either through the 'Stans' or via Iran, depending on current diplomatic shenanigans, culminating in working in NZ for a while. There is only so much staring at maps, I will have to pull my finger out and actually live the dream so to speak. What better time than now, I am single, have no kids, no mortgage. Yay! Watch this space."

Shigenori Morishima, Japan, to New Zealand,

"Hi Susan-san, I am Japanese biker. I will go New Zealand next February. Yesterday I shipped my bike from Yokohama.

Shigenori Morishima bike.

This is my first motorcycle adventure to another county. I am very excited! Thanks. Shigenori Morishima"

Are you leaving soon? Want to make a difference on your trip? Read on!

Muskoka Foundation.

"Hi there, My name is Alice, I'm the co-founder of The Muskoka Foundation. We are creating a network of international overlanders that 'use what they know, to do good as they go.' We don't charge overlanders anything to volunteer, we leverage their skills to run training workshops with at-risk youth around the world, and have close partnerships with local organizations that serve these youth in USA, Canada, Latin America, Africa and Asia.

Our dream is that a very intentional, coordinated form of sustainable volunteering is part of every overland trip! Every overlander participates in making the programs a 'long term' volunteering effort with each interaction furthering the experience, everyone learning about the local communities and the global overlanding world. All of our programs focus on really listening to the local communities, identifying their needs - all done by overlanders on the road, then the next overlanders go to the same communities and conduct workshops and also learn a lot themselves! This continues and expands with each set of overlanders going to those communities. Our foundation coordinates the whole thing and we're mostly run by volunteers too!

Again, we are not charging overlanders anything or trying to make a buck out of this (in fact we pay for all the equipment required for the workshops ourselves), we really just want to get more people to contribute to the communities they visit, build stronger relationships.

We also have a presentation here for overlanders to think about it. By the way, we have a whole bunch of sponsors supporting those overlanders that become our Muskoka travelers, here's a link to our sponsors and what they offer. It would also be great if we have overlanders on bikes sharing their volunteering stories with you?

We've had so many travelers tell us that they wish they heard about us before their trip!

Thanks again for all your support! Alice Gugelev"

Ed. You're very welcome, Alice, and keep up the good work! Travellers, don't forget to post relevant info in the HUBB 'Make a Difference' Forum!

MedjetAssist is an air medical evacuation and consultation membership program and is HIGHLY recommended by us and many others for all travellers. The regular MedjetAssist program is for citizens or residents of the US, Mexico and Canada, and gives hospital of choice protection virtually anywhere in the world and air evacuation as needed. (See below for more on the Foreign National Plan). Follow the logo below for US, Mexico and Canada citizens to find out more. (NOTE: It's still in progress for the final HU version, but you can get MedjetAssist now!)

For OTHER nationalities it is currently a little more complicated. There IS a Foreign National Plan, but you can't enrol online. It's a faxable enrolment and subject to underwriting approval. The rates are the same, but transport is restricted to 'back to home country - hospital of choice' rather than 'anywhere in the world - hospital of choice'. We are working on improving that, but at least it IS available! Go here to contact MedjetAssist and inquire about the Foreign National Plan. Be sure to mention Horizons Unlimited.

Michael Paull adds his endorsement of MedJet (and he DID use their services - twice!):

'. After an additional three days in Beijing, I was deemed stable enough for air evacuation back to the University of Washington Medical Center in Seattle, WA, in the company of my wife Aillene (who had flown in from Japan), and an air transport trauma nurse provided by the company that I had procured medical evacuation insurance from, MEDJET Assistance - without doubt, the best insurance coverage I have ever purchased in my life. A small plug here - these people were remarkable. If there was ever a better case for '. don't leave home without it.', MEDJET Assistance is at the top of my checklist, no matter where I travel (and I hope to do a LOT more).'

Note: Per the Medjet Assistance site: '. a medical transport between Europe and America can run more than $35,000. Middle East and South American flights range from $60,000 to $80,000. Transport from Asia often exceeds $100,000.' Sounds like $205.00 for a single is pretty cheap insurance!

Home again (or at least off the road temporarily).

Fang Yi (China) and Rupert (UK), RTW, in Europe, contemplating travel options, KTM 990s,

"After a lot of discussions, checking our increasingly meagre finances and conducting feasibility and risk assessments (after all that is what Fanny and I normally do for a living) we have come up with the following options for the rest of our expedition:

a) Finish our trip when we reach the UK and ship our motorcycles back to South Africa, or perhaps re-register them and sell in the UK.

b) Secure sponsorship and continue with our original plan to ride our KTMs to China, or ride bikes donated by Chinese sponsors.

c) Ship the bikes to America and ride the 'very long way down' to Argentina and then to Cape Town from Buenos Aires.

d) Ride our bikes through Spain to Gibraltar and across the straits to Morocco and then follow the Dakar Rally route through the Sahara Desert and along the challenging west coast of Africa back to South Africa.

Dakar route.

Dakar Route

Fanny is still keen on plan b) and to ride back to China as we had originally planned. She has a huge following and fan base in China and there has been some expressed interest to support us from some potential sponsors, but to date nothing concrete has been agreed.

I am not so keen on this option... not least because the East Europe, Russia and Kazakhstan route to get to the Chinese border in Xin Jiang is very long and not particularly interesting. Also, during the latter parts of Autumn it is going to be increasingly cold. Mostly I feel the administration fees for entering China and the costs of shipping our bikes from Hong Kong or Shanghai back to South Africa are far too high. We really wanted to ride through the stunning mountains of Iran and Pakistan and ride along the Karakoram Highway which crosses the Himalayas into China, but sadly this part of the world, especially along the border with Afghanistan is notoriously dangerous and although some people have travelled this route, the security risk has grown significantly in recent months.

I am increasingly keen on plan d). The idea of riding along the Dakar route through the Sahara and into the Heart of Darkness is massively appealing and the costs will be the least of all the other options. It is the ultimate motorcycling adventure.

Of course there are some issues. I am not that keen about Fanny or myself being taken hostage and paraded by some nutty Islamists on YouTube, and less enthused about getting shot. Also, I am not sure (and I am being bluntly honest as an accurate risk assessment should be) that Fanny can handle the sand of the Sahara or the mud and challenging riding conditions of Equatorial Africa, the Congo and Angola. And last but not least, Fanny is going to need a visa for all the African countries yet again, some of which can only be applied for in person back in her home country of China.

All these problems are solvable... with money... and basically I don't have much of that left."

Jordan and Michelle, USA, Texas to South America, 2up on Ninja 250,

"I was talking to a friend the other day about the conditions on the trip, and he, like many other people, told me he didn't think he could handle it. But he is wrong. Yea, it's nice to have A/C, running hot water, and clean clothes, but familiarity and routine do not equate a necessity, it's an illusion. Within a short amount of time anybody will naturally adapt to new circumstances. When entering Mexico, realizing that I would not be returning for months, I quickly forgot about what I was 'missing' and my standards conformed to the reality of the journey. Within a few days of leaving home it seemed as if we had never known anything else.

There is nothing remarkable about me, Michelle or the trip. It was an idea of traveling, and we simply followed it day by day because we loved it. The idea was the important thing, anyone who has that is capable of the pursuit.

This attitude applies to the motorcycle as well. There is nothing remarkable about taking a 'little' sports bike on a large journey. No matter what motorcycle you're riding the process is the same. Pack up, get on the bike, ride the bike. From a Honda 125cc to a Harley road king the process is the same. Having the 'perfect' adventure motorcycle is nice, but putting off the adventure until you have the perfect adventure bike (or farkle, or budget) is counterintuitive. Unless you're planning on extensive single track you really don't need a specialized motorcycle. Besides, Adventure bikes are not built in a factory, they are made by the adventure.

Jordan and Michelle at airport.

Adapting back to a first-world lifestyle was not difficult, within a week I could hardly believe that a month ago we were battling our way through the mountains of a country halfway around the world. What was most amazing is that although I been on the trip for an intense, life-changing eternity it seemed like almost nothing had changed back home. I was almost a little sad when I left on the trip because I really do love Austin and my life here. Well, everything was waiting for me exactly as I left it. Michelle and I are doing great. We had only dated a few months prior to the trip, so it was a risky relationship move. Certainly a trial by fire, but we came out great so things look bright. We had no worries about a long-distance relationship when Michelle had to move to Houston for 5 months. If we can make it through being together 24/7 for 6 months, we can handle almost anything.

The world certainly seems a smaller place now that I am back. Living in America you routinely see images of people living in conditions very different from your own, and it seems alien and foreign. Go to these places it strikes you that everywhere it's just other people. It happens gradually and suddenly you realize that different educations, different cultures, different languages, but we're really all the same. You are sitting on a street corner in a little highland town talking to somebody straight out of National Geographic... it seems so amazing and so ordinary at the same time.

Many years ago I came to the conclusion that my goal in life is the accumulation of experiences and memories. This trip has cemented my hunch that traveling is the most efficient way to accomplish this goal. Meaningful experiences can be found anywhere, but they are guaranteed on a trip like this. Every older person I have ever talked to that took some trip, some adventure during their youth, always treasures those memories. I know it's cliché, but Twain's quote: 'Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do' has to be the most accurate, convincing endorsement of adventure that has ever been written. We are so thankful we took this trip and eagerly look forward to the next.

Thanks for reading, Jordan and Michelle"

Ed. See Jordan and Michelle's story and pics in the HUBB Ride Tales Forum!

Alex Smith (bigalsmith101), USA, Central and South America, Suzuki DR650,

"I am home now. I'm currently in Ellensburg, Washington doing absolutely nothing physical for the next few weeks while Kristi goes to school full time. Tom and I will go the docks on Wednesday and get his motorcycle, and get the bike running again. I will probably re-read my entire ride report and then edit it. I'll gather my favorite photos and compile them.

Big Al Smith and Mike.

...and then I'll begin planning No Job, No Responsibilities, No Better Time Than Now. Round 2. Can you say Africa? Onward amigos!"

Ed. Read Big Al's stories and great pics in the HUBB Ride Tales Forum!

Horizons Unlimited presents...

Achievable Dream and Road Heroes DVDs!

Road Heroes - Motorcycle Adventure Travel Tales, features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (Challenges of travelling to 193 countries 2-up on a Harley Electra-Glide), Dr. Gregory Frazier (5 times RTW on a variety of bikes), Tiffany Coates (RTW traveller recounts her Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (5 years in the University of Gravel Roads). Not to be missed!

If you've been inspired by the stories you've read in this e-zine and are keen to get on the road yourself, the Achievable Dream is the definitive 'How To' series on long-distance motorcycle travel.

The 'Collectors Box Set' is also available - all 5 DVDs (18 hours of informative and entertaining content!) in a custom box at a gift price of $139.00.

After selling over 6,000 DVDs, we're pretty confident you'll like them. If you're not completely happy with them, just let us know within 30 days of purchase for a full refund or exchange. And you don't even have to send them back!

If by some chance you've never heard of the Achievable Dream and Road Heroes DVDs, you can see the trailers and read the comments for all the DVDs here.

Traveller's Community News.

Alexandra & Andre Klier, Germany, in Japan, wrote to the HU Seoul Community:

"Dear all, we are a German couple, travelling with a Honda Africa Twin XRV750 and a Honda Dominator NX650 from Australia, via SEA, Japan, Russia... back to Germany.

As we have to leave Japan mid of May because of the expire date of our carnets, we are very limited in options.

There is only 1 ferry running from Japan via South Korea to Russia/Vladivostok (DBS ferry, quite expensive).

We found out, that there are lots of ferries between Japan and South Korea (Busan) and also lots between SK (Sokcho) to Russia. This would be cheaper, but we are Germans! Somehow our country missed to sign a contract in the 40s and so we are not allowed to ride our in Germany registered bikes through South Korea ourselves.

Now the question:
1.) can anyone help us finding out, if it is possible to transport the bikes from one customs/harbour to the other (possibility, costs, customs request)

2.) would it be possible, that 2 MC riders in South Korea could ride the bikes from 1 harbour to the other (customs requests, costs), at least out of the harbour/customs.

We already contacted some transport companies, but so far without response.

With DBS Ferry we are facing costs for us and the bikes in total of 3000,- USD and have to wait 3 days in Vladivostok until we get them from customs. So we try to find a cheaper and quicker solution.

Maybe someone of you can help us or has some other idea.

Thank you in advance
Alexandra & Andre"

Ed. SeoulJoe and Daniel replied to Alexandra & Andre with useful information about transport options. Thanks guys!

New Communities:

We've now reached an amazing 719 Communities in 109 Countries as of May 27, 2012! A big thanks to all those who took the first step and established the Community in their area.

If you are on the road, do check out the Communities - don't feel like you're imposing on people! They signed up for a Community because they want to meet travellers - that's you! You'll have a great time, so go to the Communities page and let them know you're coming. Please remember that they are volunteers and offering to help because they're great people - common courtesy helps! When you write, tell them who you are, that you're passing through, and would like to meet them. Let them know if you need anything, and I'm sure they'll help as best they can.

Remember that although some HU communities are very small, many others are large and could be more active in getting together for rides (even just to the pub!) or other activities. It's a great way to meet other travellers in your area - who knows, you could meet your next travel partner! All you need is for someone to suggest a place and time, kick it around a bit and make it happen. If there aren't any HU Travellers Meetings in your area, perhaps it's time there was one? A Community could do a Mini-Meeting, (just a get-together in someone's backyard or at a restaurant), or a full meeting! Let us know about it and we'll help promote it :)

For details on how you can join a Community in your area, or use the Communities to get information and help, or just meet people on the road or at home, go to the Community page. Send me some photos - with captions please - and a little text and you can have a web page about your Community! A few links to web pages about your area would be useful too.

Just a reminder to all, when you Join a Community in your area, send a note to the Community introducing yourself and suggesting a meeting, or go for a ride or something. It's a good way of meeting like-minded individuals in your own town.

Book special just for Horizons Unlimited Readers!

'Into the den of the Bear and the Lair of the Dragon on a Motorcycle'
'8 Around the Americas on a Motorcycle'
'Africa Against the Clock on a Motorcycle'
'From Nordkapp to Cape York on a Motorcycle'

Werner Bausenhart has written several books on his travels around the world, and has offered them to HU readers at a great price. Tell him we sent you and get US$5.00 off the regular US$20 price!

For details on his books see here. Contact Werner now via this link to get the deal.

Become a Horizons Unlimited Contributing Member or Gold Member!

To help with the cost of creating and distributing the newsletter and running a huge website, which has been a full time job for Grant for ten years, Susan for 3 years, plus occasional part time assistants, we gratefully accept contributions via PayPal, credit card, and cheque. Members also get additional privileges on the HUBB, such as more PM's, custom avatars, and more photo space.

Support this Newsletter by becoming a Contributing Member today, by PayPal, credit card, or cheque.

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Thanks, Grant and Susan

Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine

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Travel Advisories:

Daan Stehouwer and Mirjam van Immerzeel, Netherlands, Canada to South America, in Bolivia, Africa Twins,

Marco Hoffmann (BikingMarco), Australia/Germany, Sydney to Germany - the African way, in Egypt, Suzuki DR650,

Kevin O'Keeffe, RTW, in Argentina,

Taylor/Byett (John, Mal, Julian and Shannon) - 4 Bikes 4 Singapore - A family motorcycle trip from Cape Town to Singapore,

Chris and Chloe Granger, UK, Buenos Aires to Vancouver, in Argentina, F650GS DAKAR and F650GS,

Ionut and Ana, Romania, Trans-Africa, in Lesotho, Yamaha Tenere,

Alex Papadopoulos & Ping-Yi, Bicycling Chile 2011-2012, Crossing to Argentina, the Stylish Way,

Ronnie Borrageiro, South Africa, RTW, in South America, BMW 1200 GSA,

Mike, USA, RTW, in Kenya, BMW R1150 GSA,

Fletcher Haver, Cooking and Braaaaping around the world, in Guatemala,

Jordan and Sandra Hasselmann, Canada, From Calgary to Argentina, in Chile,

Tiffany Coates, UK, RTW traveller, in USA,

Jay, Mercedes and Erik, Canada, A year in the Americas, in Brazil,

Henriette and Lars, Americas, in Argentina,

Ron Fellowes, The Old Bloke on a Bike, in Iran, on FN,

Ant and Nikki Robinson, UK, RTW, in Italy, BMW R80,

Susan Jehne (FatMeercat), Australia, in South America,

Colin and Re (Underboning), USA, RTW on 100cc underbones, in Laos, on SYM Symbas,

More stories below...

Why Come to a Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers Meeting?

Meetings and Events, 2012. Mark your calendars and sign up now!

Dates subject to change, more dates and locations to come as we get them. Check back here before you plan a trip!

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Book suggestions please!

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Reader comments

Hubert Kriegel, France, Sidecar-ing the world, in Namibia,