This is part of the ninth section of our around the
world trip.
Complete Trip Overview & Map
Coming from Chile or read our previous visit
to Argentina
20/10/02 Again no border problems although we were asked for the carnet. A total of 130 km of dirt and 60 km of new asphalt and we were in Esperanza. We had thought of taking the 40 north to Esquel or the longer 3 via Comodoro Rivadavia, now it's final decision time. 1300 km including 700 on dirt roads or 1400 km of asphalt all the way but retracing 700 of already ridden roads. The asphalt won as we have much more dirt to cover in Bolivia and have just done quite a bit recently. Made it to Puerto San Julian for the night after the usual strong cross wind.
21/10/02 North with a tail wind past treeless sheep estancia in undulating semi arid scrublands to the twin coastal oil towns of Caleta Olivia and Comodoro Rivadavia. With a westerly wind we could look out over the bright blue ocean between headlands and bays before punching into the wind as we headed west onto the plateau past hundreds of bobbing oil pumps dotted across the landscape. Past where we reconnected with the dirt road of the 40, from here asphalt, alongside the wide Sanguerr River with spring growth poplar trees surrounding estancias and with guachos rounding up sheep, to settle after 830 km at Gobernador Costa for the night.
22/10/02 To Esquel, 200 km, and on the western slopes of the Andes. A pleasant tourist town with ski fields and attractions in the surrounding region.
23/10/02 The narrow gauge steam train still runs it's short journey out of Esquel across the steep mountainside to give stunning views over the town and mountains with their contrasting white caps on grey rock to spring green of the valley's grasses and willows. The train normally only runs Saturday but with a large school group we were lucky to get seats on this midweek special. A ride to Trevelin and surrounds filled the afternoon.
24/10/02 Los Alerces National Park is famous for its conifer trees of the same name. Two weeks ago this region was dumped on by a storm washing down trees, rock and mud slides, and roads. The dirt road through the park was washed by the storm but not sufficiently to spoil the magnificent scenery of the lakes and trees. We rode through to El Bolson, a mature hippie town with its ageing alternativists and on to Bariloche tonight.
25/10/02 Bariloche is one of Argentina's premium holiday destinations. Winter skiing, summer hiking. Now it's the low season but the middle class, without cars, as petrol is too expensive relative to wages, take to the bus tours to Llao Llao and the seven lakes. The Andes catch most of the Pacific moisture on the Chilean side but the misty leftovers manage to get here providing plenty of large trees for the extensive use of timber in building throughout the area giving that Swiss feel to the places. In sunshine and mist we toured the Llao Llao area plus general maintenance on the Motorcycle.
26/10/02 Another relax day hanging around a comfortable hostal mingling, with short visit to the Octoberfest. Ex German nationals and their descendants speaking Spanish upholding the traditions of the Motherland. Mostly for the children, dressed traditionally for dance performances and apple strudel made like at home.
27/10/02 We headed out for the seven lakes tour, by motorcycle, to San Martin. Nestled in the mountains these lakes, each different, glacial formed and snow melt filled, have beautiful settings and clear waters. San Martin is another Swiss Chalet type town extensively using the local timbers and set on the lakes shores. Normally a loop trip, but with part of the road recently washed away we returned the same route staying at Villa la Angostura tonight.
28/10/02 Our passport seems to be getting filled up with
Argentinean and Chilean stamps as we cross for the third time into Chile.
Move with us to Chile ,
or go to our next visit to Argentina .
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
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