This is part of the fifth section of our around the
world trip.
Complete Trip Overview & Map
Coming from Lithuania
22/6/99 We crossed the border into Belarus in the afternoon
choosing to avoid the rumoured long queue's on the Minsk road and taking
the Polatsk road where it still took an hour to leave Lithuania and another
hour to enter Belarus despite there being only a queue of ten cars ahead
of us. No payment required either side. The main delay was the entering of
details on computers (both sides) by untrained one finger typists who were
still learning where the letters on the keyboard were, how to convert our
names and addresses, and the motorcycle name into Belorussian script, for
the computer record. A sign, presumably "closed", was placed in the only
petrol station we had seen in 80 km on our arrival, but the pumps were turned
on when they realized that we were from Australia. Driving to the blue lakes
we camped alongside Belorussian holiday makers in a makeshift field without
facilities lakeside.
23/6/99 The tall trees of pine and birch forests opened
out to grazing land as we headed towards Minsk, with a short stop at Khatyn.
It was here that the Nazis wiped out the entire village during the war killing
everyone but one person, now a memorial to the 185 other villages totally
destroyed and not rebuilt and the 433 villages destroyed and rebuilt. Again
with the villagers moving home in Kosovo to destroyed and looted homes the
parallel is frightening sixty years later. Its not hard to see why Belorussians
have a fetish to remember the Great Patriotic war (WW11) when 25% of the
countries population died and over half of their capital, Minsk's population
dead. The Minsk museum adequately displays the horror of atrocities in a
photo gallery.
It was here also that the original Marxist Party in 1898 was founded, now
a small museum. Lenin still stands outside the Parliament building and the
conversion to a market economy seems to have stalled. Now more communist than
Russia itself Belarus seems slow to change, however the shortage of petrol,
yesterday purchased from a government pump and today from a private pump
at twice the price, seems to be forcing change. The shortage of stock and
short opening hours makes buying petrol in the countryside difficult. Stayed
in Snov, a small local hotel for $US 0.60 each and were invited for dinner
to help celebrate a couples 15th wedding anniversary. Dragged in unexpectedly
by the husband his wife was at first apprehensive but softened as the evening
progressed after we had all consumed many vodkas. I finally worked out why
vodka is drunk in "one hit" with a soda water chaser. It is to avoid having
the fire water and taste in the mouth too long, wash it away quickly. An
ex-Soviet Army fighter in the Caucasus, out come the photo albums, to relive
possibly the most exciting and meaningful part of his life.
24/6/99 Our two day (48 hour) transit visa expires at 3 pm
and with rain setting in we had to miss Europe's largest primeval forest.
The truck queue went for km's and in the motorcar line people had been waiting
five hours but we did as the locals and rode the motorcycles to the front
of the queue, were ushered through, and within an hour were out of Belarus
and into Poland paying $US 3.00 to leave Belarus for each motorcycle. With
all its problems, the people in Belarus were friendly and generous, people
with the least usually the most giving, but petrol was difficult outside
large cities, keeping supplies for locals, and eateries and cafe's also thin
in places.
Move with us to Poland