This is part of the seventeenth section of our
around the world trip.
Complete Trip Overview &
Map
Coming from Romania or read about our previous visit to Bulgaria
28/6/11 The Bulgarian authorities entered the motorcycle and
our documents in their computer and we were on our way to an apartment
hotel right on the Danube River, just south of Vidin.
29/6/11 The more we head into Eastern Europe the more
economical travel becomes. Petrol prices here are 20% less than in
Western Europe, our studio apartment is 27 Euro a night, and a meal
and bottle of wine for two last night was 15 Euro. Quite a refreshing
change to Australian prices. It has been lovely weather the last week
apart from strong winds and today we braved them again to visit Vidin,
not a recommended city, but also visited the magnificently located
fortress at Belogradchik. Situated atop an exposed outcrop of weather
jagged rocks it seems a great location for a fortress to overlook the
plains below. Back to our Danube riverside accommodation for the night.
30/6/11 A quick ride, fast road with little traffic, to Sofia.
Actually just an overnight stop having visited the city last year we
are staying on its outskirts. After the flatlands of last week it is
great to ride alongside some mountains.
1/7/11 These mountains however attract rain, thunderstorms
today, moving across as we ride south to Rila Monastery, Bulgaria's
most famous. Started in the 10th Century, restored in the 15th, burnt
down and rebuilt in the 19th it has some amazing history and has been
responsible for keeping alive Bulgarian culture and language despite
invading forces. Governments come and go but religion seems to prevail.
A large monastery with a stone courtyard surrounded by four storied
stone accommodation for the monks. The church, in the courtyard is
extensively muraled inside and outside. Set in forested surrounds
alongside a stream its location is as magnificent as the monastery. We
rode onto Bansko, a ski town, for the night.
2/7/11 It is not often we
mention the places we sleep, unless
they really, really, stand out, but Family Hotel Yanitza, in the middle
of Bansko, is truly friendly in a simple way and with great food in
the restaurant downstairs. At 15 Euro a double, with breakfast, its
also tremendous value. The owner speaks good English. A rainless but
cool sunny day in the mountains, with snow still in the alps as we
joined the local crowds, mostly weekenders from Sofia, walking above
the treeline. Mostly coachloads, as private car ownership here is still
expensive. The main walk follows a small stream higher and higher but
the more enthusiastic aim for the mountain peak. Some sit just past the
carpark, relaxing in the mountains, picnicking, guitar in hand singing
folk songs over a raki.
3/7/11 A colder cloudy day as we descended from the mountains
to Plovdiv. The road, from Yundola to Belovo, the 842, a particularly
lovely section along a small river down through a deepening gorge. Most
smaller roads here are a little bouncy but the lack of traffic makes up
for any roughness. On the flats it was a quick ride along the last
section running ahead of rain
which we just beat to our hotel in the
middle of town. By early evening the rain had cleared enough for us to
venture into the streets, the old section, cobble streets, Roman ruins,
Thracian ruins, Bulgaria's oldest mosque. As is the situation in much
of
Bulgaria much is yet to be restored, and sits next to dilapidated
ruins. It is like this with the Kashta traditional homes, that lean
over the cobbled streets.
4/7/11 The last couple of days we have been passing roadside
gypsies selling berries and wild mushrooms collected from the
mountains. Today on our way to the coastal town of Sozopol it was stone
fruit, at the peak of their season, cherries, apricots and nectarines
with roadside sellers most of the day. With traffic increasing as we
approached the Black Sea coastal town of Burgas it was a relief to
arrive at Sozopol, just to its south east, with its beaches, and at the
moment, almost peak holiday season, packed with scantily dressed sun
bathers. Our hotel room right in the middle of the Harmani Beach bustle
allowed for people watching from our secluded
balcony.
5/7/11 20 years since de-Sovietisation of the country has
brought many changes, not least a divide in peoples fortunes. The
decentralisation of industry of Soviet times, building factories in
rural areas, has left them decaying and the population moving to larger
towns and cities, leaving behind run down rural areas. Ski towns and
beachside areas have benefited from city money, attracting apartment
development, restaurants and holiday services. Sozopol is part of the
developing areas. Old buildings renovated, new ones built, but it has
managed to retain an organised chaos, an appeal of the Bulgarian
holiday atmosphere. Busy, vibrant yet not totally consumed. Just a
looking day, strolling the old part of town, tasting crepes, fried
small sardines, a local beer, joining in from a distance.
6/7/11 This is the furthest eastward we are travelling this
time in Europe so from here it is slowly making our way back towards
the west and our flight to the
USA. 37 years married today and we celebrated by taking a
Harley-Davidson motorcycle ride to the Black Sea beachside holiday
destination of Costinesti in Romania. Some might think it was no
different to any other day of the year. Along the coast through Varna
dodging thunderstorms, a big port city, and an easy border crossing to
leave Bulgaria.
Move with us to Romania
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
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