This is part of the fifteenth section of our
around the world trip.
Complete Trip Overview &
Map
Coming from Germany or
read
our previous visit to The United Kingdom
25/5/09 The ferry left a little late and
taking just two hours we were in Great Britain by 3.30pm having ridden
in five countries in the last 24 hours. The Harley, at its age, is no
longer a good freeway motorcycle. Sitting at around 100km's an hour
its engine vibration can be tiring and we were looking forward to
arriving at Glynn's place in Nottingham, 330km's north, a long two days
after a busy rally we arrived weary, just after 8pm.
26/5/09 Glynn had been working this long weekend,
running stalls at events, and arrived back at his house late last
night. We had let ourselves in and had gone to bed early. This morning
he was understandably up late, as tired as us. His place is the most
relaxed place we have ever visited. A casual welcome, eleven years ago
when we stayed here we were shown around, finishing with, "and here is
the kettle, and when you have a tea, I have mine with milk" and that
one statement put us at ease in his home, more than anything anyone
else had previously, or since, said. It was now no different, we brewed
him his first cup of tea this morning. Marzie, his current companion,
who we had met in Australia when they had visited us a few years ago,
was also staying over, and we had a relaxed day together, each doing
small jobs that had been put aside during busier recent days.
27/5/09 Glynn operates stalls at sporting
venues, mainly motor sports, car and motorcycle, Donington Raceway
being his long standing venue, but also takes his mobile shops to music
festivals. He was doing the same business years ago when we visited, it
gives him a few months off in the winter to continue his motorcycle
travels, but his business has grown to the extent of needing more and
more staff, as the events calendar has also grown in recent years. Our
motorcycle has been running too lean lately, and on investigating the
carburettor we noticed the main jet had worn into the carby body over
time, closing off the aperture slightly. A couple of washers to lift it
will hopefully allow more fuel to flow. By mid afternoon it was time to
leave for our 2am, tomorrow morning ferry to the Isle of Man. Just a
few hours ride away, but we didn't want to get caught in rain
travelling at night. By the time we reached the ferry terminal about
8pm, drizzle was starting, so it was to the local pub for a beer and
pub meal, with many locals having come down to watch the European Cup
finals with their mates, it was a lively evening, although we tried to rest in one corner.
28/5/09 The budget dictated we should catch the 2am
ferry, a substantial discount, and a nights accommodation saved. We had
managed an hour's sleep in the ferry terminal, plus a couple more on
the boat, then arriving at 5.30am sat over a coffee in the Isle of Man
terminal reading over tourist brochures and waiting for the day to
arrive. We had come for five nights, preferring to be here for the less
crowded build up to the TT event rather than the actual race, and also
wanted to look at the island itself, hopefully not too packed with
tourists. Race fever was already in the air though. After checking into
our campground on the western side of the island, near Peel, we went
into town for groceries, sunned ourselves on the pier near the Peel
Castle, then decided to ride the track. The safety barriers were
already in place, bales of hay, foam padding, even wrapping up an old
phone booth and memorials to past racers who had lost their lives in
the event. On average about two competitors die every year, more if you
include wannabe racers out testing their skills or lack of skills. Only two days
ago, a local, racing the mountain, totalled himself on a couple of
tourist cars heading in the other direction. Public safety issues have
recently become a priority and many areas previously open to the
public, on corners trackside, have now been closed, creating a lot of
discussion on where the best places are to watch the race. Travelling
slower than almost everyone else, looking at the scenery, taking in the
tight corners, and the houses right at trackside, looking for places we
might get to watch practice days, we were overtaken by many
motorcyclists, just a bit enthusiastic. Almost all of the participants
have now arrived. Their motorhomes and trucks filled with gear
occupying the area near the finishing line. The gate security at this
early stage slack enough to allow us to enter with our motorcycle for a
photo next to the Dunlop trucks, and we could walk around, watching
racers start preparations, untroubled by security.
29/5/09 They say it is rarely sunny on the Isle of
Man, but today, after the fog cleared, it was T-shirt weather and
everyone was out enjoying. Headed south
to Niarbyl where Basking Sharks were also enjoying the sunshine. These
plankton feeding sharks are the world's second biggest fish, after
whale sharks, and can grow over 13 metres in length. Two were lazying
off the Niarbyl peninsula, and after walking at low tide, rockhopping,
past nesting seagulls and oyster catchers, it was possible to get close
enough for a distant photo, but only of their enormous dorsal fins.
Further around the coast at the southern most point of the island,
seals played in the waters close to shore as we watched across to the
Calf of Man island, lay on the grass and sipped coffee. It was late in
the day when we arrived in Castletown, after strolling through the pre
TT Classics compound where participants were preparing for the
afternoons practice session. The short road circuit, 7km's, near
Castletown, came alive shortly after 6pm with two stroke motorcycles,
an era gone. Seven practice events, as lively as a real race, the
leader losing it on our corner of the first event, but no other
excitement as they progressed from 125cc motorcycles up to the open
class plus sidecars.
30/5/09 We are
scared our campground is going to start charging us for the sunshine,
it is so magnificent, and so unusual for this island. The general
public motorcycle enthusiasts are starting to arrive, more motorcycles
on the roads and at camp grounds. We visited a great private motorcycle
museum, the ARE Collection, in the morning, mostly British brands, old
Triumphs, Norton's, BSA's, Enfield's plus names I haven't heard of.
Then, as it is Honda's 50th anniversary of competition at the TT's,
there was a special exhibition at the Manx Museum, including the first
Honda to win a TT, in 1961. We joined the leather clad lads at Creg ny
Baa, a popular race watching spot at the end of the mountain road.
Racing boots, leather racing pants and jackets, colourful full face
helmets their uniform, quite different from the H-D uniform of Harley
events, or even the gortex uniform that we saw at the overland riders
rally recently in Germany. We were the only ones not in a dress code,
just members of "Joe Public", anonymous, while our motorcycle took most
of the heat from onlookers. The first practice session was the reason
so many were gathered on this downhill corner of the track late in the
evening and the beer and a TV football game had kept them pretty
happy in the meantime. As the event is a staggered start it is
difficult to keep up with rider positions and some of that impact is
lost but just watching them scrape a knee passing the corner at a
ridiculous angle is enough to watch in awe.
31/5/09 Each day we hear reports of accidents, and
hear sirens, and it is no wonder as when we were riding part of the
track we were overtaken by a sport bike travelling at twice our speed
who squeezed between us and two oncoming cars. Part of the problem is
the high allowable speed limits, signposted at 60 mph (100km/hr), or
even open speed which here means 70 mph (113km/hr) on narrow winding
roads where there are no double lines, extremely unusual, but I guess
there is a perceived need to attract sports bikers to the island.
Sunday is the worst day as there are no races, no road closures for
practice, only for the accidents that occur. One motorcycle even went
down at our campground, the pillion drunk, the rider couldn't hold up
the motorcycle. We tried to stay off the TT track, winding across
lovely green hills to the north coast, lunch at a pub as we watched
the
watchers watch, ice cream at the beach in Laxey, sunning ourselves
like many of the locals on this spring day, then back to our campground
early evening to be welcomed by the newcomers off the ferry, many
trailering their motorcycles, camping gear in their cars.
1/6/09 The TT Classics were racing again on the
short course, a real race, all starting together, unlike the TT's where
there is a staggered start racing against the clock. The races we saw
were of nine laps, plenty of time to get a feel of who was winning.
Most riders were over 40's, some much older, matching their machines.
In the evening it was the first practice qualifier for the TT's on the
37 mile circuit and watching them from our campground, sitting above
the
roadside on a rock wall, just metres away from the racers, as they
literally flew past, recorded at 240km/hr by a fellow watcher with a
radar gun. They had to pass through three slight curves in our viewing,
changing their seating and leaning position on each occasion, and it
was here that we were really amazed by their skills, and sheer courage
to throw a motorcycle about at these speeds with sheer rock
walls and
blind corners. The sidecars were no less impressive as they bounced
along, virtually without suspension, just inches from the road surface.
The practice session only lasted for two hours after which the wannabes
again came out.
2/6/09 Our time on the island was up, the ferry
leaving at 8am. We could have stayed a couple more days, there was
plenty to see, both the natural scenery and the races, a few more pubs
to experience, a few more places to watch the bikes from, but we
weren't
going to miss the crowds at the campground that had been arriving by
the boatload, or the wannabes trying out the track at 4am. We were back
on the mainland, back at Glynn's place by mid afternoon, pleased to see
a real bed again.
3/6/09 Glynn has a good place to work on our
motorcycle, undercover, tools, workbench, so we replaced the rear
engine/swingarm support rubbers, a job we have been putting off for a
while, which took much of the morning, and after lunch a friend of
Glynn's, Richard, took us to a Harley aftermarket shop in Mansfield,
where we bought a secondhand carburettor and front disks.
Harley no
longer
make carby's for our model, but there are a lot of take offs, ones
people have removed and replaced with different brands, leaving behind
their old carby at the shops. The virtually unused carby we bought for
40 pounds, the same price for the two front disks. Our old disks have
lasted 330,000 km's, and were a little warped, so instantly, braking
was
now better. In the evening Glynn took us to a biker meeting place, MFN,
Middle of F---ing Nowhere. A pub in
the country where on Monday and Wednesday nights in summer up to 1000
bikers descend, all brands, sizes, ages, (bikes and riders). A watch,
look and talk fest, no attitude, just easy going bikers.
4/6/09 Glynn's friend, Danny, a KTM Adventurer
rider, an outdoor guy, invited us to his home for dinner, with his
family, wife and three children. Danny does the Road Kill Cookout at
the Horizons Unlimited Rally in the UK, bringing along rabbits,
squirrel, and other animals he has caught for the event. Tonight he
honoured us with a
taste of his new brew of silver birch wine. Made from the sap of the
tree, taken in early spring, it is fermented with
yeast, then bottled.
We had the first tasting of last years brew, a clear white, strong, a
nose of apple, a pleasant taste. It was accompanied by a venison stew,
one Danny had shot, and shared with Joanne, another overland traveller.
5/6/09 We had planned to stay an extra night at
Glynn's but with heavy rain forecast and Glynn planning to sleep out,
at the Download Festival, where he was setting up supermarket marquis
for the next weekend show we decided to move along. Over 60,000 people
will be attending this years show, a small city, and Glynn's four
temporary supermarkets are designed to supply the crowds with
everything they might need, from buckets for ice to waste, or food to
tents. Heading south mid morning it was an easy ride to Southampton and
after checking in to our cheapish hotel, booked over the internet using
the web page www.laterooms.com we got a great double room, 45 quid, en
suite and a full English breakfast included, with parking in the middle
of town and
cheaper than a hostel. It was near here, in Petersfield, that I lived
for 18 months at the age of 5-6, when my father was stationed with the
Australian Navy, doing an officer's course at
Greenwich. The house we
all lived in, occupying the top floor, the owner on the ground floor,
still stands near the railway station, so it was an afternoon visit for
a photo. Nothing we saw brought back any memories other than the houses
outside, perhaps even that was a photo memory not a real one. The area
looks like the past 50 years would have changed it little. Little new
development, houses looking pre WW2, but there was a new supermarket
mall area, but I couldn't find my old school or the park where I
played.
6/6/09 My nephew, Michael, has lived and worked in
the UK for the last nine years, coming over here under contract to work
as a diesel marine mechanic, he has now settled here seemingly
permanently. He also works part time at a corner pub in Southampton,
where we paid him a surprise visit this afternoon. Well it was supposed
to be a surprise but his mother was
informed, and as mothers will, in her son's best interests, he was
given a bit of a heads up, as we haven't seen him for over nine years
and perhaps he might have not recognised us. We sat in the bar enjoying
a few ales, watching world cup preliminaries on the "telly" while
Michael snippet chatted between customers, and then joined us on the
other side of the bar with his friends later in the evening.
7/6/09 We don't visit a lot of Harley-Davidson
shops, finding we now have less and less in common with the riders
there who, like we used to, use their motorcycles more for a social
event rather than for riding, but this morning we needed to restock our
supply of wheel bearing seals, so we visited the H-D shop in
Southampton. Unfortunately they were out of the seals but we stayed,
talking to "Red" the chatty ex-American sales manager and had a coffee
with a couple of Harley riding Horizons Unlimited followers, but the
other riders, who turned up for the short ride out, were more locally
social. The evening was spent at another local pub with our nephew and
his friends. We enjoy the English pub scene, always a place to meet
locals, a place to meet
characters, whiling away an evening. But pubs in the UK are finding the
recent downturn just another coffin nail in their business after strict
drink driving rules, no smoking rules and changing community social
values. It was reported that 35 pubs across the UK
are closing each
week at the moment.
8/6/09 Headed west along smaller roads through nice
undulating farmland scenery. The UK doesn't have the same extensive
network of freeways that we found in Europe and we arrived at Axminster
mid afternoon, the place of the famous carpets by the same name.
Carpets started being made here over 250 years ago, with women and
children using the same techniques of knot tying, a cottage industry,
that is still being used in the Middle East. Mark, another world
motorcycle traveller lives nearby. We first met him on his 1979 model
Triumph motorcycle at the Tesch rally in 1998, and he is still riding
it. An engineer by profession and motorcycle rebuilder by hobby he
works to be able to travel, living a minimalist lifestyle between
trips, and on the road. His famed Horizons talk is on what to take and
what not to take on a long distance motorcycle trip. His latest
planning however is a six month bicycle trip, to Asia next winter, a
bit different as he hasn't been on a long distance bicycle ride before.
It's a small industry this travelling the world by motorcycle,
although
the Long Way Round couple, Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman recently
made it more popular, and Mark and us had many friends in common, or
we had at least heard of people we each talked about.
9/6/09 It was a short visit to Mark's place and we
were on the road further west this morning, Dartmoor National Park our
plan for the night. We are surprised that, at this time of the year, it
is still cold with grey skies, getting to a max of 16 degrees but
taking all day to get there as we rode through beautiful rolling hills
green in spring growth. Dartmoor, perhaps most famous from the book
"The Hounds of the Baskervilles" is one of England's most beautiful. It
is an upland area, 500 metres above sea level, and as it missed the
series of glaciers that rolled down from the north the landscape
has been left weathered rather than flattened and tors, rocky crags,
can be seen dotting the hillsides. It is also famous for its Dartmoor
ponies, a stocky breed that wander semi wild, but still owned, across
the moorlands. Generous tourists however outnumber
them, bribing their
interest with food. Less humanly attractive black faced sheep wander
aimlessly fending for themselves.
10/6/09 On a lovely, for the UK, weatherwise,
morning, that means clouds with patches of sun and no rain, we rode the
narrow roads of the moors, stopped again to watch the ponies, walked to
a couple of hilltop tors, to some granite stone quarries, over 200
years old, but most impressive were the stone railway tracks that
carried the cut granite to ships over 15km's away. Wagons, drawn by
horses, rolled along these tracks for over 100 years. Cut rocks,
between one and two metres in length, placed lengthwise, their own
weigh holding them in place, guided the wagons. By late afternoon the
good day had gone and as rain drifted by we watched a downloaded movie
on our laptop in the kitchen of the bunkhouse accommodation.
11/6/09 It seems the impact of the recession is
keeping Brits holidaying at home. Busloads of retirees seem to be
keeping the economy ticking over. Headed as far west,
and south as
possible in the UK to Lands End, riding small roads often canopied by
trees and lined with stone walls and there was no shortage of tourists
when we arrived. A popular spot since people in the UK started
travelling, it has all the usual destination add ons, souvenir shops,
coffee shops, and entertainment venues for the kids, along with,
something often overlooked, great coastal walks and scenery. In
beautiful weather we decided to camp on a headland, just a few
kilometres from Lands End, at a place where board riders come to surf.
The season, if
indeed there can be a surfing season in these cold waters, has just
begun, and more than a dozen vehicles and tents were their homes,
reminiscent of the 1970's in Australia. It was a steep ten minute walk
down to the surf and we were surprised by a beach of yellow sand and
good waves.
12/6/09 There is a distinct shortage of roadside
places to stop where we have been riding, virtually nowhere to picnic,
but plenty of places to buy something. It had drizzle rained overnight,
with sea fog rolling in, and continued into the
morning, and as I write
this
diary sitting in the laundry of the campground we hope the day will
improve. It is not the riding in the rain that deters us, but more we
don't see anything while riding in the rain, and seeing things is why
we
travel. The day did improve and as we sat trying to see St Michael's
Mount, drinking a coffee, the drizzle eased to fog, and the fog lifted
to show the beautiful island. Almost immediately after an elderly man
backed his car into our motorcycle. He scraped his rear mudguard, but
just another small scar on the motorcycle's front fairing, another war
wound. St Ives was the next stop on the Cornish trail, and a Cornish
Pasty was consumed there, along with dozens of other tourists sitting
on harbour front benches. Well mine was partially consumed when an over
enthusiastic seagull swooped down taking it out of my hand. Cornwall is
England's premier tourist region and St Ives is one of its main period
towns. Situated around a small fishing harbour, stone buildings along
the shoreline, narrow lanes wind up the hillside, it has long ago
handed itself over to tourism but has kept its period charm, and on the
now sunny day was in its full beauty.
13/6/09 We met Keith
and Ellen at the Horizons
Unlimited rally in New Zealand a few months ago while they, and us,
were touring that country. They live in the thriving surfing town of
Newquay, Cornwall, and invited us to stay. They have toured the US on
their Honda ST1300 Pan, and NZ on their Honda 650 Transalp, and are
planning a trip to Australia and a ride back to Europe through Asia on
the Transalp over the next few years. Similar ages to ourselves, Keith
is currently retired so has plenty of time for planning and we chatted
options for their next trip. During the afternoon we visited a few more
quaint Cornish towns plus had a look at the china clay works, whose
mines dot the countryside, plus the Eden Project, the worlds largest
greenhouse, which has an enormous variety of the worlds plants growing
under cover in an old quarry.
14/6/09 A relaxed day, at least for three of us,
Ellen had to work, guiding a group of journalists and TV presenters,
local and international, around Cornwall, part of the visit Britain or
visit Cornwall promotion. Keith and us rode over to Padstow, another
historical and touristic seaside fishing village, busy with fish and
chip eaters, then later in the afternoon we rode into Newquay for a bit
of a photoshoot, mostly photos for the local newspaper. Ellen's famous
lamb roast, and again surplus red cemented the days enjoyments.
15/6/09 Ellen is an
excellent cook, and used to run a guest house, and served us sumptuous
evening meals each night of our visit, not to forget Keith's Sunday
morning cookup, so it will be on tight rations for the next couple of
days to help reshrink the stomach and waistline, not to mention our
over indulgence of red wines. This morning we left for Exmoor National
Park. National Parks in England are not like those in other countries, having only started the concept 60 years ago, most of the
land was already occupied, so when areas like Dartmoor and Exmoor were
set aside people had been living on the land there for centuries, or
even thousands of years. So it is a strange mix of rules that separate
public space and public walkways, from owned land. Rules that govern
what animals can be kept, what use the land can be put to, what can be
built on the land. Still it
seems to work, and landowners and the
public all somehow seem to benefit from the National Park designation.
We're camping in Porlock, in the north of Exmoor National Park for two
nights. A lovely basic farm campground, right in the middle of the
village, where we made a short walk to nesting birds on the pebble
beach and the historical village of Bossington, and to the pub for
dinner on the rainy evening, which was followed by watching a movie in
the campground laundry on our laptop while sitting on the bench above
the washing machines. Evenings can be long in the tent, and unless we
want to sit in a pub drinking each night, there is little else to do in
a town that closes at 5pm when the busload tourists leave.
16/6/09 We awoke to a lovely
day, breakfasted sitting on the grassy field in the sun, followed by
maintenance on the motorcycle for an hour or two, then headed off to
Lynmouth, where we caught the water driven cable car railway up to
historic Lynton for a stroll and lunch in the local church yard
overlooking the coast towards Wales. Later it was a ride over to Tarr
Steps where large stone slabs ford a river, believed to have been
placed there over 500 years
ago. Each stop of interest in the park has
a walk, an interesting stroll, and we enjoyed Exmoor more than
Dartmoor, more relaxed, less crowded, finishing our stay with another
movie in the campground laundry.
17/6/09 The maintenance we did on the motorcycle a
couple of days ago was for a vibration, something we have been
attempting to locate for a while. We looked into the primary area at
Glynn's a week ago and found the primary chain tension adjuster foot
loose, so thought we had solved the problem, but no, so it was back
into the primary area again, tightening bolts, checking the chain
tension, but again no success. The vibration occurs mostly under load
and may be associated with the recent oil pump drive collapse which
could have allowed metal shards into the engine's main bearing, so we
are hoping to locate any alternative possibility, if one exists. Still
looking. The
ride today, 340km's to Ripley in central England proved we haven't yet
located the vibration, but was still a pleasant, although highway ride.
By evening only a few earlybirds had arrived at the ninth
annual Horizons Unlimited Rally, organisers mostly, Glynn, Grant and
Susan, Danny, Sam, and it was nice to be able to choose a tent site
anywhere.
Move with us to Ireland
or go to our next visit to the United
Kingdom
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
|