Travel Through Kuwait on a Harley-Davidson
By Peter Forwood
Kuwait on a Harley (21/9/05 - 11/10/05)
Distance 1370 km (441328 km to 442698 km)
This is part of the eleventh section of my around the
world trip.
Complete Trip Overview & Map
Coming from Iran
21/9/05 The reported six hours crossing took seven
and a half, and a further hour to unload the boat and pass immigration. My
visa was issued on the spot, three months for less than $US 10.00. With the
next two days being holidays there was discussion whether I would be able
to collect the motorcycle until after the weekend but an incredibly
helpful Kuwaiti national, customs officer, and his Indian assistant,
managed to process the bikes paperwork immediately and I rode out into
Kuwait well after dark. Tired, I found an old, empty, check point building
at a construction site and laying out the tent and mattress and slept
on the floor. It had been 45 degrees here today and the walls of the small
building were radiating that heat back, leaving me lying in a bed of perspiration.
There were also sand flies nibbling, forcing me under the sheet, adding
to the hot conditions.
22/9/05 Up at 5 am, nearing sunrise, I rode the corniche.
A wonderful seaside road, low headlands and beaches, trees, grass,
with places to relax overlooking the calm ocean. Here last nights litter
was being cleaned up by an army of Indian, Pakistan and Bangladeshi contracted
workers. There are about two such workers for each Kuwaiti national
living in the country, and about 94% of Kuwaiti nationals work for the
government.
An extremely unusual balance of employment.
A definite two tiered population. Kuwait is the first place a Harley-Davidson
dealer has existed since my leaving Japan and needing an oil filter, I
went there to find that the manager, Harry, was the same guy who Kay and
I met in Dubai six years ago. Welcomed like an old friend, I immediately
had offers of bike mechanical assistance and use of the internet. It was
the day for elections of office holders for the local HOG (club) Chapter and
many riders turned up early afternoon. With eats and drinks (Kuwait is a
dry country so no alcohol) provided, and good humour I was invited to Abu
Ali "Heritage's" house to stay whilst in Kuwait. Daytime riding at this time
of the year is considered too hot, so after an afternoon siesta, and evening
tea, we left for a ride towards the southern border at nine o'clock. Collecting
other riders along the way we were soon more than 20 bikes, all male riders
and one woman pillion. It is still unusual for a Kuwaiti woman to be on
the back of a motorcycle, and although totally legal, it's extremely unusual
for a Kuwaiti woman to ride a motorcycle. Being a small country, less than
200 km by 200 km, there were a lot of timely rests for a meal, coffee, and
shisha (water pipe smoking) and good relaxed conversation with most members
speaking English. It was to be 3 am before I was back at Abu Ali "Heritage's" house.
He was a motorcycle police
rider trainer, and has been riding for 34 years. He tells me he is from
Kuwait's first family, "Abu Jaber". The people from the sea. I was also
given the Arabic name of Rahal, which I think is similar to Gypsy. A wanderer,
a person always on the move, sleeping in different places each night. Never
having adopted a "nick name" before, it will now be my motorcycling name.
All here already refer to me as such, probably an easier name for them to
remember.
23/9/05 Abu Ali has provided me with a room separate from his house.
His motorcycle den, with my own facilities. He has two female Phillipino contract workers in his
house and a Bangladeshi man that helps with his hobby, motorcycles,
and looks after the cars and gardens. Definitely a comfortable lifestyle.
His family, wife and unmarried children live
at home.
We, just Abu Ali and myself, have been eating outside in his garden as
it is not considered proper for me, a non relative, to be staying within
his house. Today though is Friday, and as we might have on a Sunday,
the family over for a meal, so it is here. I was incredibly honoured
to be invited to share lunch with the entire family, their weekly get
together. Two traditional meals, one from Iran, the other from Kuwait,
prepared by Abu Ali
's wife and served by the staff on a low table, with nine of us seated
on the floor. Abu Ali was happy for me
to photograph inside his magnificent house but asked that no family photos
be placed on the internet for their privacy. What the west might still
consider conservative values, Kuwait has adopted a more open, "worldly
view" of the world in recent times. With a dust storm blowing through
town we had a ride to the marina late afternoon, a photo session with
the local motorcycle magazine, and another short ride to coffee, again
about 20 motorcycles. The welcoming I have received here is unsurpassed
on my travels. Having changed money on my arrival
I have been unable to pay for anything, and have all but given up trying.
Petrol and drinks flowing seemingly from some bottomless reservoir.
24/9/05 Apparently the Saudi Embassy is closed today for
a holiday so it is another day before I get a chance to attempt a visa.
Putting out feelers on my arrival for anyone with connections at the
Embassy has brought many suggestions of possible ways of obtaining a visa.
I have not wanted to approach the embassy directly in case of refusal,
thus making further approaches from other sources less likely to succeed.
This morning we went to a visa agency for his opinion. It will take a
month to get a transit visa through them, if it is at all possible.
Over to the Harley Dealer where Harry, the
manager, offered to do some work on the bike. I had asked for an oil change.
Next time I looked the bike was apart, a new, slightly used carburettor,
enricher cable, clutch cable, front brakes and rear brakes were being
inspected, a new battery and the primary was apart as part of the generosity
afforded me. Both the Arabic and English local newspapers had been invited
to interview me at the Harley-Davidson shop and take photographs of the
bike in the afternoon and then an invite to Talal's family home for a family
get together and dinner. A male only gathering of about a dozen traditionally
dressed Kuwaiti's. In a more traditional garden setting, on carpet covered
benches, we sat sipping thick tea, sweet lemon tea and bitter coffee with
great conversation before entering his family house for a meal. Sitting
on the floor were three large platters of rice with a cooked, quarter sheep
on top, so tender the meat pealed away from the bone. A few men gathered
around each platter, and eating with t he right hand quickly had their
fill, and were back out into the garden for more tea and conversation.
I have met quite a lot of people from mixed parentage, usually British
mothers and Kuwaiti fathers. A patrolinial society, requiring a Kuwaiti
father to obtain Kuwaiti citizenship for the children, and all the financial
benefits,
of which there are many, that go with that
privilege. Pleasantly exhausted from a fast day of activities requiring
more mental effort than physical I crashed about midnight.
25/9/05 I was taken to the Saudi Embassy this morning
but we were not allowed to enter, being too late, apparently we needed to
be there by 8 am to be allowed entry. The Saudi's are seen here as being
difficult to deal with, the other Gulf States having liberalized their positions
in the world recently regarding tourism and visitors from other countries.
I no longer require a pre entry visa for any other country in the region.
The rest of the day was spent at the Harley Dealership. Despite it being
the beginning of the riding season as the weather cools from the summers
highs of 55 degrees, and the workshop being extremely busy, work continued
on my motorcycle as a priority. Monday is a motorcycle riding night and
a small group assembled at Abu Ali's house for the hour or two before
the ride for drinks and discussions. After a few days of hectic socializing
I opted not to ride and have an early night. The roads in Kuwait are
excellent, six or eight lanes, well signposted and fast. Driving is
close and accidents common. I saw six accident results today. Not serious,
normally tail ended, driving as close as a metre or two to the car in
front at high speeds. The mobile phone, a constantly used accessory, a
significant contributor to accidents.
26/9/05 My passport was collected by Jasam last evening
and taken to the Saudi Embassy this morning. A friend of a friend arrangement,
with nothing definite and it still might take a while.
Part of the problem is the beginning or Ramadan
in a weeks time. I relaxed at Abu Ali's house this morning, hoping my
welcome here was not wearing thin after four days. Despite there only being a few
roads out of the city, one each north, west and south, all flat, the
highest hill in the country only 100 metres high, and great road surfaces,
but straight and six or more lanes, the riders here ride a few times a
week. Going to the same few places in turn, again tonight we headed south
about 9 pm. Not just Harleys, BMW's and Hondas, even a Ducati, had
a burger, coffee and a lot of cool evening conversation before heading
back about 2 am. A charging problem with my bike had me needing a push
start after refuelling and arriving back home with a flat battery and
no light.
27/9/05 The regulator plugs connection pins had broken,
and fitting the spare regulator solved the charging problem this morning.
It was not envisioned that I would need to stay at Abu Ali's home for
this long. Hospitality often diminishes as a visitor extends his stay,
however nothing has changed here. In fact as Mr Abu Ali and I become
more comfortable within our relationship of different cultures,
we seem to be bonding more, opening up more on subjects earlier closed.
Today after buying a new remote hard drive back up for my lap top, we were
at the fish market looking for a local delicacy. Locally known as maid,
but what I would call a small mullet, the oily fish is only eaten in the
summer months and only hot off a barbecue plate.
In his garage, on a small gas hot plate, his Bangladeshi
assistant cooked dozens of the small fish, and we ate almost as many. Eating
with our hands, removing the heads and sucking the juice, then eating
the oily white flesh, leaving bones and skin before attacking another one.
Served with white rice to help digest the oil, and salad, followed by
deliciously fresh dates. An afternoon siesta, almost compulsory here as
all shops close from 1 till 4 pm and lunch is the main meal. Some shopping
for new shirts for me later in the day. Slightly embarrassed at the state of my dress, having only
two faded shirts, bought in Thailand and now rotted from long hours sitting
on the bike in the sun it was great to feel better dressed. The evening
spent sitting outside with some of Abu Ali's motorcycle friends, local
drinks, conversation, with it not winding up till after 1 am.
28/5/05 With the wait for an answer from the Saudi Embassy
dragging on Abu Ali will not let me waste time and we were at a fibreglass
place to get the left pannier, smashed in the accident in Afghanistan,
repaired. Initially I had thought of buying a new pannier but reflected
on the memories contained in the stickers and cracks the old one contained
and decided that the recent accident and this repair would just add to
the bikes memorabilia. The two tiered society here keeps prices low with
labour oriented jobs reasonably economical. Product prices are also reasonable
as there is almost no taxation or import duties as nothing is produced,
other than oil, so there is no local industry to protect.
With oil revenues so high, and likely to
continue, with 10% of the worlds oil and 150 yrs supply at the current
pumping rate, there is really no need for the government to impose a sales
or consumption tax. Most of the world has somewhat forgotten the events
of 1990 when Iraq invaded and occupied Kuwait for six months, their minds
more attuned to current events in Iraq. However the people of Kuwait do
not have the luxury of forgetting so easily. Many lost their lives, their
loved ones, their belongings, or at least their innocents. Whilst the
country has been almost entirely rebuilt, some places have been left as
museums so that the memory will continue forever. One such place was an
ordinary house, where just hours before the allied invasion to free Kuwait,
the resistance group of Al Messilah, was discovered by the Iraqi occupiers
and most of its occupants, fired on by tanks and heavy artillery, were
killed, three at the scene and nine later at the hands of the Iraqi's.
Abu Ali, who knew personally some of those killed, took me to the memorial,
a place he hasn't been emotionally able to visit for 10 years, a moving
place for me, more so for him. Soon after the first gulf war, as part of the reconstruction,
tree planting took on a high priority, the greening or Kuwait, and is continuing
to spread throughout the city making it a more comfortable place.
But with the enormous energy consumption, air conditioners, cars and radiated
heat the city is five or more degrees hotter than the surrounding region.
On rides in the evening we feel an abrupt drop
in temperature hitting the desert, just on the cities edge.
29/9/05 I was informed last night that the Saudi
Consul is unable to approve the visa application without authorization
from the embassy section, which is where it has now been moved. People
move here in groups. Young women and children do not move outside the
family house without being escorted by parents or staff. I am also escorted,
not sure why, but yesterday afternoon was the first time I could comfortably
wander the suburb on my own. Even then I was initially followed by the
male household staff, his concern I might get lost. I requested though to
walk alone for a while. Looked after so thoroughly after such an independent
last year travelling alone has had me pondering how much we give up the
more we strive to make life easier, something everyone seems to do. Household
appliances, both in the garden and home, save labour, as does the motor
vehicle, but then have us jogging or at the gym to get exercise. Fast
food take away's are too easy to consume, compared to home prepared meals
and our weight suffers. Having other people do repairs for us removes us
needing to know how something works and the skills to fix it, reducing our
mental and dexterity diversity. It can be seen in Kuwait to the greatest
effect where life is easy for nationals, with servants at home and cheap
labour elsewhere, there is little need or incentive for hands on doing.
Decided to book a flight home, even though I
am not sure in what country I will be leaving the bike at this stage. On
the 15th October, 16 days away, from the UAE, somehow I will have to get
there, by bike, boat or fly. The rest of the day spent cleaning and sorting
luggage and spares, thinking of the next trip.
30/9/05 A couple of motorcycle world
travellers that we have met along the way have later died in motorcycle
accidents on their travels. Many others have been injured, some seriously.
Many many more have finished their world trips without incident. Having
had just one minor collision, recently, in Afghanistan, and one single
vehicle, ours, dropped on asphalt on a railway crossing in rain in Brazil,
we have been incredibly fortunate. The motorcycle has been dropped
a couple of hundred times on dirt. We stopped counting after forty, crossing
the Congo, with the mud. The motorcycle has always been able to be ridden
away, and only one visit to a doctor as a result of an accident, four stitches
to Kay's eyebrow after the fall in Brazil. Should I ultimately be killed
along the way of this journey, there would be no regrets. Few people get
an opportunity to experience the world in such a way. The experiences
outweigh the ends. With Kay joining me on the next section, her injury
would be shattering to me. Finished reorganizing and cleaning the bike
contents before a ride into town to see Kuwaiti's at play on their holiday.
The large seaside shopping mall could have been anywhere in the world other
than the dress of its shoppers. Out for a family days shopping, the older
women traditionally dressed in black, some with their faces covered, the
men in white robes and head dress. One generation down has the women in
brighter colours, still with a head scarf, but with multi layers of bright
clothes and lace, men more western dressed.
There is a total range of cultural dress, through
to westerners in shorts and even a tank top or two. Dress here definitely
dignifies its owners position. A traditionally dressed male carries a presence
of power, both within a motor vehicle and in business dealings.
1/10/05 The left pannier was collected after its repair and holes
redrilled ready for the new catch and lock Kay has arranged for me in
Australia. I have now cleaned and sorted just about everything possible
in the bike. Have updated the web page and processed all my photos. I have
effectively run out of jobs to do. Kuwait is not such a large place to require
an extended visit. Still no word on the Saudi visa. Despite my extended
stay at Abu Ali's home, his tremendous hospitality has remained unchanged
and I am still not permitted to buy anything. There can not be a more hospitable
place in the world.
2/10/05 Whilst we are waiting for the Saudi's we are also looking
at alternatives in case of refusal of a visa. Today we were at the port
only to be told there is no boat to Bahrain, neither ferry nor cargo. An
alternative earlier suggested was to have the bike road freighted through
Saudi and me flying to Bahrain. An expensive process but perhaps the only
option.
3/10/05 My options for continuing the trip from here are rapidly being
squeezed. With less than ten days before I need to be in the UAE for a
flight home I find out that the visa application has been referred to Riyadh
for possible approval.
Ramadan also starts tomorrow. Working hours generally
halve to four hours a day, things run slower and the rules are strict here
and more so in Saudi. Here, anyone found eating, drinking or smoking in
public, receives a $US 340 fine, and are imprisoned till the end of the
month of Ramadan, certainly a deterrent. It has surprised me that for such
a wealthy country, with everything available, unlimited imported staff, how
inefficiently it sometimes runs. It was not till I considered that in the
average countries population, 10% are probably good managers, 40% are good
workers and the remaining 50% are probably less than average. In Kuwait,
with 94% of Kuwaiti nationals employed in the government sector, inevitably
many will come from the bottom 50%, and placed in supervisory roles will
not have the qualities to produce an efficient workplace. I was taken for
a breakfast ride on the corniche, a restaurant lunch, coffee at another place
before an afternoon rest. The evening, another ride, again south, the only
road out of town with decent places for a drink and food. Being one of only
three alcohol free countries, Iran and Saudi Arabia the other two, devoid
of discos, little mixing between the sexes, little variety of entertainment,
in a small country surrounded by desert, life here can rapidly become repetitive.
The riding was good in the cooler evening and the company excellent, not
getting back to my bed till 2.30 am.
4/10/05 I advised Abu Ali that I did not want any prepared meals during
the day, during Ramadan, as this would mean his Muslim staff and his family
would be unnecessarily exposed to my food preparation whilst they were fasting.
I could quietly snack in my room. He would not hear of this however, and
insisted things would remain the same for my meals. The weather turned hot
again and on a mid afternoon ride I wondered how people in this hot environment
could fast without water for daylight hours. The ride ended as the sun set
and the call to prayer sounded out over the suburbs from minarets across
the city that it was time to prayer and time to start eating again.
5/10/05 By the end of the day there was still no word from the Saudi
embassy as we enter another weekend. I emailed a friend to try and change
my flight out of the UAE from the 15th to the 20th, the absolutely last
day for me to be home before a family reunion starts. Deadlines are the worst
in these situations. Having a shopping list for renewable items for the
next trip Abu Ali and I hit the shops, about the same price here as in Australia,
and with plenty of waiting time it was something to do. Worked on the bike
in the late afternoon, a couple of little jobs.
6/10/05 It is now the longest time I have spent in one place on the
entire trip. Normally I can drop off the passport at an embassy or book
a ticket and travel around the country whilst waiting. But with Kuwait
so small and locked in there is nowhere to go whilst waiting. It is fortunate
that the hospitality here compensates somewhat for the waiting. Talal invited
me to his uncles house for the breaking of the fast feast at sunset. A dozen
of his relatives congregate at his uncles home each evening during Ramadan.
Again there were no women present at the dinner. A fairly normal meal, fish,
meat, rice, with a few special delicacies. Another ride in the evening, south
along the coast to a new mall, water fountains and live music entertain the
late night goers. With almost all buildings and infrastructure in Kuwait
built after the Gulf War the country has been booming bringing with it the
normal problems associated with big money being spent in a short period of
time. A society now with an emphasis on money and loosing a bit of its traditions.
Caught between the past and future. Four people were hanged yesterday for
trafficking in drugs, a more common crime in recent years. People are jailed
for drinking in public but it seems tolerated in the home. Women narrowly
missed getting the vote a few years ago and are still not readily welcomed
in male arenas.
7/10/05 Kuwait has more oil than water. Desalination plants now give
the city enough water for comfort. Waste water is recycled and used for the
new greening of Kuwait. With Ramadan well underway the city is now into
the familiar pattern. The streets are empty in the minutes leading up to
sunset, with people visiting family. The evenings come alive at about 9.00
pm when restaurants and coffee shops do a roaring trade and people shop
for presents for the festive end of Ramadan. This lasts well into the early
hours of morning when before sunrise people sleep. A late start with offices
not opening till 10 am or later, only remaining open for four hours, possibly
an afternoon siesta and it starts all over again. The bikers meet afternoons
at about 4 pm as the weather cools before heading home. Many later come
by Abu Ali's home, like this evening, and we sit outside talking of
bikes, trips, politics and religion, politely till early morning.
8/10/05 I only just found out that Australia has recently opened an embassy
in Kuwait. This morning I talked to the ambassador to see if he could help
me speed up my Saudi visa application. He took my details and promised
to assist where he could, but stopped short of asking them directly for
assistance because of difficulties that might occur with a return of the
favour. Abu Ali and Basal, generously offered to trailer my motorcycle
to Bahrain, 500 km through Saudi, with me flying, if a visa was not issued
in time. Again an amazing part of the hospitality I am still receiving
here. Although the Harley-Davidson dealer here has only been opened for
six years its adoption by locals is spreading rapidly. The big bikes are
being personalized to the extreme with bolt on modifications.
The first chopper arrived last year from the
USA, and one in kit form was assembled in a new shop this year. As the
country accepts more and more western liberation the construction of personalized
bikes looks set to grow.
9/10/05 In the early hours of this morning my passport was returned.
It was considered that it would not progress further at the Saudi embassy
and was withdrawn. Often they don't outright refuse applications, but merely
sit on them till the applicant runs out of time or patience. Another visit
to the Australian embassy was polite and helpful but they were unable to assist
with the Saudi visa. If I could have got residency status here or an invitation
from a Saudi company there should have been no problem with a visa. With
more time that is what I will work on whilst at home for a couple of months.
A flight booked to Bahrain in two days time and the bike will be trucked
there the following day, hopefully. Third world nations have health problems
brought about by hard work and too little or the wrong foods. First world
nations seem to also have large health problems, but this time brought about
by too much of the wrong food and lack of physical work or exercise. The
middle ground seems to win again.
10/10/05 Basal, whose car and trailer was to be used to transport the
bike through Saudi was in hospital this morning with low blood pressure
and would be unable to take the bike tomorrow. Abu Ali quickly found another
willing person with a car for the 1000 km return journey. Documentation
allowing him to transport my bike was prepared and on an evening ride I said
good bye to the bikers of Kuwait.
11/10/05 Emotional farewells to Abu Ali's family after my, almost three
week, stay. The bike had left on the trailer at 3.00 pm and I flew out for
Bahrain at 6.00 not knowing if it had cleared customs into Saudi or if it
would be stranded at the border. Abu Ali had not let me pay for anything whilst
in Kuwait. I had been fed, housed, and the bike refuelled without being able
to dig into my pocket, and was reprimanded if I tried. The Harley-Davidson
shop took a similar approach to my repairs, even apologizing for not being
able to do more as the bike was older than the shop and therefore limited
in spares for it. Kuwait is generally an expensive country, similar to Europe
or the USA for food and accommodation but I will always remember it as the
most hospitable country, and for me, the most economical country I have
visited.
Move with me to Bahrain