This is part of the fifteenth section of our
around
the world trip.
Complete Trip Overview &
Map
Coming from New Zealand
or read
our previous visit to Netherlands
8/4/09 It has been over ten years since
we have been to the Netherlands and almost as long since we really
travelled through Europe. I guess much has changed here. It certainly
has in our lives, more than 400,000 km's having passed under the
motorcycle since then. After 36 hours from hotel to hotel we arrived in
Rotterdam at 9.30 am. Even though we didn't have a return ticket,
neither Malaysian airlines in New Zealand, nor immigration in the
Netherlands requested one. Between the Amsterdam airport and the train
to Rotterdam we purchased a new sim card for our mobile phone, a paper
overview road map of Europe, and a Tom Tom GPS road map navigation
system, not the one specifically for a motorcycle, but the cheaper car
version which included maps of Western Europe and the UK, for 149 Euro.
The shipping agent informed us the motorcycle had arrived on the 4th,
and after destuffing it was now available to be collected, after we
cleared customs, and they emailed us the specific customs form. As the
motorcycle was not for permanent import, just temporary, their customs
agent couldn't clear it for us.
9/4/09 Taxi's are incredibly expensive here, so it was two
subway trains and a bus to get to the port customs house, after having
first visited the city customs office which couldn't help us. The port
customs staff were incredibly helpful, even providing us with a cup of
coffee while we waited. Passport, shipping documents, vehicle
registration and insurance papers were necessary. We had yesterday made
inquiries from the ANWB, the Netherlands automobile registration
office, to obtain the necessary compulsory insurance, but it was
impossible to buy. Apparently we needed to fully register the vehicle,
also impossible as we weren't residents of the Netherlands. So we were
in an awkward situation, the motorcycle was here but we couldn't get it
out of the port without the unobtainable insurance. ANWB's solution was
to have insurance from our home country that covered us in Europe, also
unobtainable. Luckily, at the customs office,
they accepted our
Australian insurance, the one included with our registration
documentation, even though we consider it only valid in Australia, and
they thankfully stamped the release papers. It was then another bus,
train, bus, and 3km's walk (the Tom Tom navigator works as well for
walking as riding) to the shipping office out in Haven 5044. Luckily
the public transport system here is incredibly efficient, almost
everyone is helpful and speaks English, and with our all day transport
pass we had unlimited use of trains, buses and trams. ECU Line, the
shipping agent, had some steep charges for releasing the motorcycle
including what they called a "kickback" fee to the New Zealand shipping
office of 65 Euro. A total of 250 Euro in fees, about the same price as
the freight, plus 25 Euro to dispose of the motorcycle's well used
metal
crate. It was with mixed emotions we uncrated the motorcycle for the
last time from a crate we built in India almost two years previously
and one we had used twenty times to visit all the Pacific island
countries, but the crating and uncrating will not be missed. The well
worn procedure of reassembling the motorcycle went
smoothly, it rumbled
into life without problem, and we rode out of the warehouse and into
the Netherlands about 1.30pm feeling
incredibly lucky to have the
motorcycle the last working day before Easter, and that all had gone
smoothly. Tom Tom managed to find our hotel where we collapsed
exhausted
from jet lag having run on adrenaline for the last two days.
10/4/09 Ten hours difference in our body clocks from New
Zealand time to Netherlands time gave a fitful nights sleep but it was
a lovely sunny spring day and our location right near the water, well
almost everywhere in the Netherlands seems to be near water. We
strolled along
the canals where century old canal boats were tied up, now converted to
liveaboards and beautifully maintained, where the pilgrim fathers left
for America before Australia had been discovered. Like many port towns
there
is a greater ethnic mix here than can be expected through the more
general population, in people, shops, foods, and as we strolled the
streets it was as if we were passing through many countries. Ethnic
problems here have been rising, with the fairly recent killing of a
politician, 5.5% of the population are now Muslims,
double that of ten
years ago. It seems people are again moving around the world, this time
arriving, not leaving from this port town.
11/4/09 Easter Saturday and sunny, locals were out en-mass.
After filling up with expensive petrol, 1.40 Euro a litre, (but well
down on the price of a litre of a couple of years ago), we headed
for Delft, a city founded in 1100AD, famous for its hand painted blue
china, and still containing much of its character of canals, churches
and paved streets. Bicycles dominate transport in the centre of town,
not the sort of bicycles we have been seeing in New Zealand, these
bicycles for transport, not for sport. There are no bright coloured
lycra pants and shirts, no helmets, no racing or off road bicycles,
just normally dressed people on standard bicycles. Still admiring our
new Tom Tom navigator, it directed us there and back effortlessly, and
looking further into its features we discovered it has a campground
locater, something we are sure to use when looking for a place to stay
after a days riding.
12/4/09 Our last trip to
Europe involved many museums,
ancient buildings and history. This time we are more looking at how
Europe is today, how people live here compared with the
other western
societies, and it is usually in the first weeks of entering a country
or region that our eyes are most open, when we see more, before we
become accustomed to our surroundings and they seem more normal. On a
foggy Easter Sunday we headed, as did thousands of locals, for the
beach side location of Scheveningen. Naturally, no one was in the
water,
and only children were playing on the sand, almost everyone else was
enjoying themselves over a coffee in one of the dozens of beach side
open air restaurants, or promenading the hard packed sand or
boardwalks. It was just a place to get out, with the family.
13/4/09 The Netherlands has a few reputations that spread its
name around the world. The legal use, or at least decriminalisation,
of marijuana, and prostitution has been legalised here for almost two
centuries, and the prostitutes have their own union. But
there are
other advances in social liberalisation. Doctor assisted euthanasia is
legal, as are same sex marriages, both world firsts. With almost
half of the Netherlands lying below sea level, 2400km's of dikes are
necessary to keep out the ocean. Extensive barrages stop storm surges
from flooding the land and at the same time allow rivers to flow
into
the oceans at low tide. Pumps are available in cases of extended heavy
rains coinciding with high tides and unfavourable winds, so that since
the last major inundation in 1953 the Netherlands has managed to keep
out the sea water. We rode down to Middelburg in light drizzle and fog,
crossing many of the barrages, and walked along a couple of beaches,
watching holiday makers enjoying themselves.
14/4/09 A warmer, sunny day, our last in Rotterdam, spent
sitting in the sun people watching and having a couple of glasses of
wine in a small cafe. Cafe's here are bars and coffee shops are where
you buy a marijuana joint, a little confusing when just arriving in the
country.
15/4/09 We had noticed another crack in the
frame just before
leaving New Zealand, near the rear of the engine, it had been slowly
opening up so we took the motorcycle to a small garage where they put a
temporary patch weld, enough to allow us to ride. To do a proper job it
would have been necessary to remove the exhaust pipes, a couple of
hours job. Said goodbye to Rotterdam then rode out towards Utrecht, an
old city, where 13th century canals and wharves meander under brick
bridges below street level. Still a thriving city, restaurants line the
streets and wharves where cargo used to be loaded. The narrow
cobblestone laneways are only suited to pedestrians and bicycles and
are closed off to other vehicles, making it a pleasant place to wander
around looking at the ancient buildings. Later in the afternoon we rode
to Maashees, where Sjaak Lucassen, a motorcycle traveller, longer
travelled than ourselves, lives. We first met Sjaak in Malaysia in
1996 as I was getting off a boat from Indonesia, he was loading his
motorcycle. We have kept in touch ever since, but is has been eleven
years since we had last met, and he has travelled over 260,000km's on
his R1 Yamaha, many extreme kilometres in Africa and South America, in
that time. On checking our separate routes we were amazed how close we
were at
times in our travels but never close enough to meet up. Sjaak has
recently returned from a ride to the top of Alaska, in winter, also on
a R1 motorcycle, a truly extreme adventure, riding up the Alaskan
Pipeline road with studded tyres, heated everything, and temperatures
over 30 degrees below zero. Check out his video on UTube.
16/4/09 Sjaak's friend, Hank, a welder, looked at the crack
in
our motorcycles frame, and after preparing a plate and rod to
strengthen the area, and with us removing the exhaust pipes, the
morning was spent getting an excellent repair job done on the frame.
Sjaak does slide show presentations on his around the world trip and
is currently preparing one on his Alaskan trip. He has his own
merchandise to sell at the shows, is
sponsored by many suppliers, including Yamaha, and writes regular
articles for Dutch magazines, quite a productive enterprise, financing
his travels by his reputation. In the evening, after an enjoyable walk
around the rural neighbourhood, we had a few beers at Sjaak's local
pub. Having grown up in the same village he is known and recognised by
everyone.
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
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