This is part of the fourteenth section of our
around the world trip.
Complete Trip Overview &
Map
Coming from Tonga
7/10/08 Our midnight flight landed at 2am and by the time we had
cleared customs, a little difficult as we were carrying a tent
that needed to be opened and inspected, we found a set of bench seats
up
in the Sky Deck area of the departures section and slept till 7am. A
McDonald's breakfast, a shuttle bus, and we were really in New Zealand.
Since the Lord of the Rings trilogy hit the big screen tourism has been
booming, which was still apparent as we entered the backpacker hostel,
full last night, and departing and arriving bodies milling around the
common areas. After being
in the relaxed islands for a long time it was great to arrive in a
place
that functions at a reasonable level. In our hostel, Bamber House, just
south
of the city, set in lovely grounds, everything works, everything
including
the staff. It is again their job rather than an inconvenience as much
of
our Pacific accommodation seemed to be. We purchased a local SIM card
for
the mobile, arranged a cheap car hire, bought warm gear from the local
Salvation
Army second hand clothes shop, did grocery shopping, had fast wi/fi
internet,
and still managed to relax for most of the day. We had met many people
wanting to drop out in the islands, drop out it certainly was, a lovely
quiet lifestyle, but western born, I am not old enough yet, and hope
never to be that old. Having been to New Zealand before we have found
it to be a low population western society, something we usually enjoy
in our travels, and look forward to some great rides.
8/10/08 Technically the motorcycle has already been to New
Zealand having spent a week in the country being transhipped from Sri
Lanka
to Fiji about a year ago, but as we have set the conditions that it
must
be ridden in each country, engine running, we were pleased to hear it's
ship arrived in port today, and the agent advised, if the paperwork is
completed it should be available Friday, in two days time. Only then
can we claim
it has been ridden in every country of the world, every internationally
recognised country, all 193. Why we chose this country definition is
because
a number of places have declared themselves countries, that few other
places,
if any, recognise. An example is the recent recognition of Abkhazia and
South Ossetia, recognised only by Russia, not internationally
recognised.
And whilst the motorcycle
has been ridden in many non recognised or disputed areas of the world
they are not a part of this record. With our rent-a-rocket, an old hire
car, it was the shipping office first, near the airport, $US 80.00
handling charges, then MAF (quarantine) who were helpful and will
inspect the motorcycle Friday morning, Customs not quite as pleasant
and required a valuation for the motorcycle as we are putting up a
refundable bond for the VAT (12.5%), cheaper than obtaining a new
carnet for just this one
country. So with a valuation from the Harley dealer of 7500 NZ dollars
for our battered Harley, and an appointment with a customs officer
tomorrow,
the days paperwork was completed. Frank and Rita, two Australian
friends,
are joining us, or we are joining them, for the next month as we travel
around New Zealand. We collected them at the airport late afternoon and
had a great evening eating tapas, small bar eats, as we caught up on
conversations.
9/10/08 Frank Wheeler is an American, having adopted Australia
as his home, and is a well know adventurer. He has walked across the
Simpson Desert, bicycled to Birdsville, canoed the full length of the
Darling, and ridden or driven on almost
every outback road in Australia, usually using Honda products, his main
sponsor and backer. Rita has accompanied him
on many of the adventures. Honda have provided him with a demonstration
model ST1300 touring motorcycle for the month we will be travelling New
Zealand and this morning we visited their head offices, arranged some
publicity for our trip together and collected Frank's motorcycle. That
was the days good news. The bad news was problems at the port mean the
motorcycle won't be available until next Wednesday, five days later
than we were told just yesterday. The other good news was customs
cleared the motorcycle, after more discussions, and we paid a
refundable bond of $NZ 617.00, and they don't need to inspect the
motorcycle when it finally gets here.
10/10/08 With five days on our hands we decided to head to the
southern inland, Frank and Rita on their Honda motorcycle and us in the
rented
car, a bit disappointing, yes, we were travelling in a car. Headed
south
to Rotorua. It has been a wet winter and the grass is green as and the
rivers are flooded, the countryside looks magnificent. Rotorua is one
of
New Zealand's premier tourist places, already busy early in the season.
Its thermal hot
springs, mud pools and geysers attracting lots of visitors. We walked
around the sulphur bay of Lake Rotorua where thousands of birds come
to the warm waters to nest in early spring and where steam rises from
some
vents on islands, and a strong smell of sulphur was constantly in the
air.
11/10/08 New Zealand is supposed to be in a recession and the
share markets around the world are crashing and banks collapsing but
there
is little sign of it as we walk the tidy streets of Rotorua. Steam
gushes
from parks in town, from gutter vents and mud pools bubble and boil. We
found a small boiling pool, in a Maori part of town, and boiled a dozen
eggs and made billy tea for lunch, soaked our feet in a hot foot pool,
them
ending up looking like lobsters, in another park of large hot lakes and
streams. Late afternoon we headed towards Taupo, further south to visit
Mark and Leanne on a small B&B property in the country.
12/10/08 They had invited us to stay, over the internet, about
a
year ago and are arranging to store the motorcycle's crate while we are
in
New Zealand. Mark is building/converting an Isuzu long wheel base 4x4
bus
into a motor home with
the idea of travelling the world slowly, starting with a year
in NZ and then a couple in Australia, living from the bus, which will
be designed to go about anywhere, a similar but very different
lifestyle from ours. Mark and Leanne showed us around Taupo, the cellar
wine bar, the cascades, glass blowing, and an evening meal at the local
pub, a great day and company.
13/10/08 We said goodbye early morning and headed back to
Auckland stopping at the Hamilton Gardens for an early lunch. A quiet
day to ourselves as Frank and Rita had gone off for a ride on their
own.
14/10/08 Who ever designed the calendar to have a day a week as
a rest day got it right. After socialising, dealing with officials,
travelling, it was time to do nothing, especially as we have become too
relaxed in the islands, socialising can drain energy.
15/10/08 We were at the shipping warehouse at 7.30 am, the
appointed time for our MAF (quarantine) inspection, the motorcycle was
produced in its crate, and whilst waiting we started uncrating. The MAF
representative had a thorough look under the
mudguards and around the engine, mainly looking for seeds. Interested
in our travels, and how we reassembled the motorcycle, the inspector
passed the bike as clean, and on payment of $US 30.00 the motorcycle
was free to go by 9.30 am. Trev, a goods repacker and warehouse owner,
and friend of Mark's, had agreed to store the crate for the four months
the motorcycle will be in NZ. He lent us his ute to collect the crate
and by 10.30 we were free to ride and headed back to our accommodation,
returned
the rental car, washed the motorcycle which had been fumigated along
with
the vegetables in the container and had some salt corrosion. A few
adjustments,
repack, petrol, checking over the motorcycle, as we will be riding
considerably
faster than we have been in the islands, and we should be ready to head
out
tomorrow. So finally the motorcycle has now been ridden in every
country
of the world, and equally as enjoyable, we can get back to riding, not
shipping,
at least for a few months.
16/10/08 Our first ride with Frank and Rita started in the
rain,
a short trip to the city to meet a friend of Frank's, a descendant from
Pitcairn Island, those who mutinied with Fletcher Christian
against Captain Bligh, an interesting breakfast. His friends were
heading to Tahiti for the 220th anniversary
of the mutiny. The skies cleared for a great days riding north. A
couple
of stops for a roadside tea, a visit to a Kauri museum, along highway
12,
and a ride through magnificent forests south of Opononi, where we took
a
campsite, and it set in raining all night. Frank, used to travelling
alone
on his adventures, as have we been mostly, meshed in pretty well,
swapping
the riding lead as we travelled. Frank had bought a Tom Tom GPS
navigator
which already has proven to be great in finding street locations but a
paper
map still seems to be necessary for an overview, neither has proved to
be
perfect.
17/10/08 The greens hills, covered with grazing cows, milkers,
are so lush in the spring growth that it can be hard to look at. Wild
flowers often dot or cover hillsides, snowdrops, daffodils and calla
lilies mostly but also many native flowers we can't identify. We headed
further north on great twisting roads, mountains on each side and
riding along a ridge, almost no traffic, a ferry ride from Rawene, and
into Kaitaia, visiting
another Kauri shop. These trees had recently been dug up from swamps,
some
buried for over
45000 years, and still the timber was millable. One enormous tree, over
five metres diameter, has been carved with an internal staircase and
was the centre attraction. At low tide vehicles can enter 90 mile
beach, actually about 90 km's long, and travel on the hard sand. By mid
afternoon the tide had receded enough for the motorcycle to have solid
traction and we rode comfortably from Waipapakauri to the Te Paki
creek, passing just a few tourist buses and one car. The steep sided
sand dunes make breaking down in this region fatal for motor vehicles
and a couple of cars were half buried in sand, and were slowly rusting
away. We rode mostly on the hard
sand but the exit was up a creek bed, leaving behind the ocean to get
back
to civilisation. Riding in the water was comfortable but patches of
deep
sand around reed beds gave us problems and we needed to push the
motorcycle
a couple of times, but the creek bed ride washed all the salt water
from
the motorcycle.
18/10/08 A drier tent camp followed by a short ride, the soon
to
disappear 20 km of dirt being upgraded, to the top of the north island,
Cape
Reinga. The ocean, sand dunes, grasslands, mountains, all more great
scenery.
So now it is a ride towards the south,
initially taking the east coast. The recession is biting hard here,
outside of the cities it is more noticeable. Almost every second house
or farm in this area is for sale. Signs dot gates and mount front
yards, few have sold stickers. We have been warned on a
number of occasions to be careful of theft, the poor economy starting
to
affect peoples morals, though everyone seems to be friendly and
helpful,
and we are enjoying the longer distance riding. Camped at a backpackers
in
Paihia, the Bay of Islands.
19/10/08 Already a little saddle sore a rest day was
prescribed.
A cruise ship had anchored in harbour, a relocation cruise, bringing
itself and passengers from the Alaskan summer season to the New Zealand
summer season. Passengers have been on board for almost a month
visiting the Pacific Islands, a few more ports of call in NZ and they
fly home. 1500 of them
descended on the small town of Paihia, visiting Russell, the original
capital
of NZ and Waitangi, where a treaty with the Maori was signed. Some took
helicopter flights, light aeroplane rides, but most shopped in the town
and at special stalls put up to attract a few dollars. We sat in an
ocean front cafe, people watching while Frank took a couple of the ships staff, a hairdresser and facial
masseuse, for a ride on his motorcycle, a bit of a thrill after they
had been playing with geriatric heads for the last months.
20/10/08 A short ferry ride across to Russell, a coast ride,
and again
we can't comment too much on the great riding and magnificent scenery,
whether
it is because we have been deprived of it in the islands or it is the
great
company or it is actually as good as it seems. The weather has been
kind,
a couple of short showers, but mostly sunshine easily lifting the mood.
We
took the coast roads, hardly any traffic and arriving in Auckland,
stayed
with Trevor and Pamela, the couple who are looking after our motorcycle
crate
and who offered the four of us a bed for the night. A barbecue, good
wine,
actually excellent wine as Pamela works for a winery owner, and great
company
topped off the day.
21/10/08 Frank has been visiting a few Honda dealerships along
the way, promoting himself and tagging us along with him. Honda emailed
all their shops in NZ advising that we might be passing through their
area
over the next month, even though we are riding a Harley-Davidson we
have
received warm welcomes at each
place, and have received a couple of phone invitations to visit over
the next few days. The Coromandel Peninsula is a quiet part of the
country not far from Auckland and leaving our comfortable
accommodation, later than usual, again in sunshine, we followed the
road around the coast, finally ending up at the Department of
Conservation Park on the tip of
the peninsula at Stony Bay for a nights camping. The peaceful seaweed
filled bay, sheep grazing hills and ducks demanding our dinner all made
the 20km's of dirt to reach this quiet spot worth the effort.
22/10/08 Fraser, the editor of Bike Rider and Dirt Rider
magazines had been phoning Frank the last couple of days for an
interview and after riding the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula we
visited his office
in Paeroa for the interviews and ended up having dinner at a local pub
and staying at his rural farmhouse, great hospitality. As our trip
doesn't
generally fit the image of Harley-Davidson riders, nor the adventure
bike
brands that normally do long distance international trips, magazine
editors
often can't find a category slot for our trip, but it looks like an
article
should be in the January edition.
23/10/08 We headed into Hamilton, a
visit to a couple of Honda dealers along the way to fulfil Frank's
promotional commitments as an adventurer representative,
then with our sunshine luck replaced by showery grey skies we rode cold
towards the south west, through the lovely Awakino gorge to the coast
and
stayed in a backpackers near New Plymouth. New Zealand's backpackers,
some
with camping facilities attached, are proving to be excellent. Each is
different, some a little quirky like tonight's. Built in a large metal
shed the outside looks run down but inside, the log fire, wood
panelling and quaint rooms give a homely feel.
24/10/08 Three single night stopovers and we are ready for a
two nighter
so after heavy rain overnight and grey skies in the morning it was easy
to
decide on a second night by the log fire with just a short visit to New
Plymouth
and a ride up Mt Egmont to the visitors centre during an afternoon lull
in
rain.
25/10/08 The Forgotten World Highway winds out of Stratford
through mountains towards Lake Taupo and following this magnificent
road across a few saddles, through
tree fern forests, high pastures it is inevitably more damp than the
already wet NZ. The little town of Whangamomona decided to secede from
New Zealand a few years ago and formed its own republic, well at least
unofficially, along with passports for its citizens, and as we stopped
in
at the local pub we could have had our own passports stamped having
visited another "country", well it might be a while before the United
Nations recognises the little republic so we will not be in a hurry to
add it to our list. We learnt a bit about the water deflection of
Honda's, particularly the one
Frank and Rita are riding, an ST1300, compared to Harley's. We arrived
at
a roadside stop wet, boots, gloves and faces. Frank and Rita arrived
pretty
dry. Their water cooled engine allows for fairing aerodynamics, plus an
electric height adjusting windscreen, where the air cooled Harley has
to
have good air flow, which also allows good water flow, wetting
everything. Even though Frank offered us a ride on the Honda we
declined, not game to experience the smooth running motorcycle 15 years
the junior of ours. Anyway we like the vibration and "real" riding
experience of the H-D, don't we? It
was a good lesson in rider comfort. Stayed at another
backpackers, this country has some of the best we have seen anywhere,
Turangi for the night.
26/10/08 The skies cleared to a crisp to cold morning, less
than 5
degrees as we rode past Mt Ruapehu, snow capped and glimpsing itself
through morning fog cloud. The cloud increased but the temperature
didn't and we ended up in Wanganui with the worst of riding conditions,
wet and cold. The ride had been excellent down highway 4, what we could
see between showers. After an hour's warming up at the local McDonald's
restaurant, and no warmer, we were at a roadside, riverside, free
camp ground at Vinegar Hill mid afternoon and having had enough riding
without seeing the great scenery we were passing through we settled for
a large log fire along the riverbank as more showers had us oscillating
between the fire and our tent until nightfall.
27/10/08 Yesterday's rain had cleared to light cloud, and we
can easily
understand why NZ is nicknamed the land of the long white cloud, but
after
seeing part of a steam train exhibit in Feilding, the skies were blue
for
the last day of the long weekend and the whole of the population was
out
enjoying their individual hobbies.
Motorcycles dominated the mountain road from Featherstone to Upper
Hutt, resting, chatting and bragging at the top of the pass, checking
out new brands and worn out models. Old Minis, Citroens, hotrods, MGs,
all travelling in small groups were out for a holiday run but the most
interesting hobby we saw was the local Upper Hutt pig shoot. By late
afternoon about thirty were hanging up, weighed like Marlin, along with
wild deer, goats, rabbits and possums, all feral animals in NZ. The
local rough looking shooters were gathered around waiting for the
results of the competition, drinking a few beers, chatting the days
hunt, whilst their children entered the dead rabbit throwing contest.
28/10/08 Frank had arranged a meeting with the Wellington Honda
dealer, who arranged a meeting with the Dominion Post newspaper, who
came and photographed the motorcycles at the Bluebridge inter island
ferry terminal for the crossing to the South Island, which gave us half
priced return tickets for ourselves and the motorcycles, a busy but
profitable outcome for the morning's events. The smooth ferry crossing
took about four hours and we arrived in Picton at 5pm, a quiet town up
a long inlet
where we grabbed a camp ground cabin.
29/10/08 Frank's last Honda appointment was in Nelson and after
a magnificent early morning ride along the coast of Queen Charlotte
Sound, then through more mountains, we were welcomed by the dealer of
Morley Motorcycles with morning tea and coffee at a local coffee shop
while we waited to be interviewed for the local paper, the Nelson Mail.
The warmest welcoming we have received it took till after lunch before
heading out towards the Lewis Pass, camping as sleet peppered the tent
at the Maruia Hot Springs. The
outdoor hot pools in a natural setting, whilst cold rain fell on our
heads,
then relaxing in the resort's lounge, before having to head out to our
cold
tents, topped off a great day.
30/10/08 It was three degrees when we woke and another dip in
the hot springs seemed the best way to warm up before heading across
the Lewis Pass. A light dusting of fresh snow covered trees on the
surrounding mountains and it was in foggy sunshine that we rode down
towards Christchurch
alongside the braided river and green pastures. Sam, president of the
Patriots Motorcycle Club, and associated with the Harley HOG club,
invited us to their meeting for a few beers and to meet some of the
local riders. A quiet but enjoyable evening, mostly talking to a couple
of riders looking to go overseas with their motorcycles or who had
already ventured to Australia for a ride.
31/10/08 It was time to rest for a day. You can't get away from
the washing and it is nice to take a day off occasionally.
1/11/08 The day started with a balmy warmth as we headed out of
Christchurch towards Mt Hutt but the catabatic winds coming off the
mountains gave us trouble keeping the motorcycles on the road as they
gusted between the tall windbreak pine hedges. Snow still covered the
mountain peaks and as the cross wind turned to a tail wind we rode in
comfort most of the way to Lake Tekapo and past the Mt Cook lookout but
after lunch the promised cold change arrived from the south bringing
equally as fierce winds only icy cold as we passed through Twizel and
over the Lindis Pass choosing to wild camp alongside
Lake Dunstan just south of Cromwell. Frank likes to ride, and ride,
and we are running the risk of running out of roads as we head to the
southern most point of mainland NZ. Almost 500 km's today. Not a long
day but with only limited numbers of roads and ourselves having 12 more
days before we expect to be back in Christchurch we will need to
sightsee more and ride less, a tall order for Frank.
2/11/08 This high mountain area of New Zealand gets little rain
huddled between snow-capped mountain ranges. Our lakeside camp
attracted an early sunrise and despite the freezing morning we were sun
warmed as we broke camp. The front having passed overnight brought more
strong winds, initially from behind as we moved down towards the coast,
but at Milton we were being battered by gusting side winds, with the
pig iron Harley faring better than the more lightweight Honda.
Following the coastal route through Owaka and Fortrose we almost ran
out of petrol with the small stations closed, it being Sunday. The main
event for the day, to reach the bottom of New Zealand, near the town of
Bluff. Although not the actual most southern point it is where highway
1 ends and where the signpost depicts distances to far away places, the
pseudo bottom of the country, a little bit
more north than Slope Point in the Catlins, but Bluff seems near enough
for most people.
3/11/08 We were at the Invercargill Honda shop early morning
looking for new tyres for Frank's motorcycle, unfortunately they didn't
have any in stock, but they could be freighted in by tomorrow morning.
Whilst this was being organised we did an oil and filter change on our
motorcycle,
using diesel oils we'd purchased from a nearby autoparts store, and an
oil pan from the Honda shop. Colin and Deanna, local riders and
organisers
of the 100 plus ride, celebrating over 100 years of motorcycles, now in
its 24th year, had invited us to their place for morning tea and they
also
invited the Southland Times newspaper for another interview and photo
session.
Colin collects and restores old motorcycles, previously British bikes
but
now mostly Japanese models, a hobby he has had for a long time. With
Frank
and Rita locked into staying in Invercargill for another day we
decided,
whilst the weather was fine, to ride to Te Anau via the coast road. The
hopping off spot for Milford Sound it is a full on tourist town, having
lost any semblance
of a real, and we have seen many great small rural towns, New Zealand
towns.
4/11/08 A quiet walk to the small bird zoo, which displayed
many of
the more endangered birds of NZ, and a lakeside walk into town filled
the
morning before Frank and Rita arrived with their new tyres. The
afternoon turned cold and wet, the evening wetter and by late evening
snow had started falling. Our tent slowly collapsed upon us as the wet
snow's weight bent its poles. Regularly, every 30 minutes or so, we
needed to violently shake the tent to dislodge build-up until it
finally stopped falling around 2am. Nearby tree branches could be heard
breaking, mostly newly leafed birch, weighed down by the wet snow, and
the electricity in the camp ground went
off leaving motorhomes and cabins cold without heating, but our down
filled
sleeping bags kept us warm in the snow covered tent.
5/11/08 The storms passed leaving blue skies and we awoke to
about 10cm of new snow around the tents. Our plan was to ride to
Milford Sound, a day trip, but chains were required, so, hoping for the
weather to remain fine, and a
possible lifting of the restriction, we broke camp in late morning and
headed towards the Sound. The pastures, trees and surrounding hills
were covered in fresh snow and as we move higher towards The Divide,
about 80km's out and at 500m, with fresh snow falling, we decided to
turn around, there was little chance the chains restriction would be
lifted as the road continued to climb to over 900m just ahead, and the
temperature was already down to 2 degrees. Back in Te Anau, not to
waste an afternoon, we headed off towards Queenstown, but just 15km
along the road heavy snow was falling, settling and sticking on the
windscreens and looked like continuing, so again
we were back in Te Anau camped at the caravan park watching snow fall
on
our tent throughout the afternoon.
6/11/08 A frosty morning, clear skies, late start to ensure no
ice on the road, and we again headed out towards Queenstown getting
caught up in the Southland Cycle Race, a New Zealand version of the
Tour de France lasting a few long days of riding through hills. They
had also been out yesterday, their coldest day of the event in 30
years. We were following the more
than a hundred cyclists until a police escort shepherded us, and a few cars,
around them. In Queenstown we warmed up, sitting with a few locals
waiting for the cyclists to pass through town, still mostly bunched up,
all traffic was halted as they passed. The ride to Glenorchy had been
billed to us as a must do on a motorcycle, and whilst a lovely
ride with great scenery, it didn't rate much better compared to other
great
roads we have been riding in NZ and we found the road over the Crown
Range
equally as spectacular, settling in the scenic town of Wanaka for the
night.
7/11/08 Frank, wanting to just ride and ride, and us preferring
to sightsee along the way, set out along the west coast early morning
in warmer conditions, riding quickly over the Haast Pass, along the
coast past Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, but stopped only for petrol
and food. With him also wanting to ride the loop up to Westport
tomorrow and back to Greymouth we parted company near Ross and stayed
the night in Hokitika with a plan to
meet up again tomorrow night.
8/11/08 On one of those magnificent spring/summer days of full
sunshine with a crisp breeze we strolled about town and down to the
waterfront where dozens of locals were out trying to net
whitebait as they migrate between the
ocean and the dark waters of bush covered rivers and streams. The
small,
almost translucent fish, a delicacy, fried, pattied, omeletted, and
selling
for $NZ 70.00 a kilogram, technically illegal for sports fishermen to
sell
them, but with the tourist demand many fish caught today will likely
end
up in local restaurants.
9/11/08 After last night together, Frank and Rita decided to
head towards Picton, and a ferry back to the north island, via Arthur's
Pass, and we chose the west coast road to the north. Our ride was
420km, theirs 560km, and with the weather deteriorating, and not
knowing what might gain our attention along the way, we agreed to meet
in Picton at 11am, for a
farewell, tomorrow, but with a trailing wind and storm brewing from the
south in cold cloud we had little inclination to stop and ended up in
Picton
by 5pm today. A phone call from Frank later in the afternoon, and they
had
also moved along without seeing reason to stop, and had also arrived in
Picton, but had taken a cabin in a different camp ground.
10/11/08 Light drizzle
overnight increasing to steady rain in the morning and we were pleased
to have continued riding yesterday. It is not that we are opposed to
riding in the rain, it is more that we are here to see the scenery, and
riding in rain pretty much precludes that. Frank and Rita said goodbye,
catching the lunchtime ferry back to the north island and we returned
to our cabin for a quiet afternoon, catching up on jobs that don't get
done when travelling with others. Frank's infectious laughter,
bantering and joking along with Rita's steadying influence will be
missed, an easy couple to travel with.
11/11/08 Having travelled quickly past the Queen Charlotte
Sound
last time we decided to visit again, a slower ride by on the way south
to
Kaikoura, the capital for ocean wildlife in NZ. Before we arrived
seals,
New Zealand Fur Seals, could be seen sun baking on rocks, frolicking
and
playing
in the water and a few were disputing territory, just off the coastal
road,
where we had stopped to eat a picnic lunch. Later afternoon we walked
the
peninsula walk, along the coast and cliff, past nesting bird colonies
and
more seals.
12/11/08 Tourist operators have been running
tours here, swimming with the seals, for the past, almost 20 years, so
we booked on one. The water temperature, 13 degrees, rising from the
undersea Kaikoura Canyon is filled with krill, which
attracts fish and seals, along with dolphins and whales. Our boat with
a
total of ten punters dressed in their 5mm wetsuits, travelled for just
10
minutes to a colony and after spotting a couple of juveniles playing in
the
water we slipped in to assess their reaction. One looked at us for a
couple
of minutes before disappearing, the other started putting on a
performance that lasted over half an hour of interaction. Swimming
amongst us, rolling over, tail wagging at the surface, blowing bubbles,
disappearing to return again with snorkellers trying to imitate the
seals movements and in awe of its mobility. A young one of many lazying
on the nearby rocks it just enjoyed the company but finally left when
another seal joined with it. A couple
more, older seals, passed by our view, interested in our presence for a
short time but offered little interaction before leaving. Slowly the
cold
got to most snorkellers and the tour was over, a great experience, a
wildlife
encounter that interested both participants.
13/11/08 To
Christchurch, and after a stop at the Harley-Davidson shop
for a coffee and chat with the owner we arrived at Nigel and Lee's
place. Nigel is involved with the Horizons Unlimited community, is
organising their rally here next February, and is also planning his
overseas trip in a few years time. We were offered a quaint 1960's
caravan to stay in, and a place to store the motorcycle, and started
preparing for our trip back to Australia for Christmas.
You can either move onto planning
the
fifteenth
trip or go to the first country of that trip New Zealand
Story and photos copyright Peter and Kay Forwood, 1996-
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