buying 1100 GS seconhand
 

Hi

I am going to inspect and test ride a 1100 GS this weekend, what things should I inspect carefully, ask owner about or check while riding the bike? It is a 94 model with about 45,000 km, ABS, heated grips & BMW panniers, otherwise standard. I have owned and riden many bikes, but never a BMW twin. Any advice appreciated.

I currently own a F650 Dakar and I know my may around single cylinder Jap dirt bikes, having spent about 20 years riding in Australia. An XR650 with 21L tank got me hooked on adventure riding about 10 years ago, then the F650 got me hooked on adventure touring about 2 years ago. Now after a few trips 2-up on the F650, my wife is suddenly interested in going pillion on a longer trip - maybe to Eastern Europe. So I am sizing up weather to set up the F650 for the job or get a larger GS 11xx for the extra comfort & room. GS 1100s seem quite cheap now and plenty owners on this site still seem to like them. Any advice on the model choice and set up for touring also appreciated.

Regards
Skillo

Greetings, Skillo!

I try not to be that oriented, but i think i really am a bit too BMW boxer oriented because it's an excellent bike:

yes, you're completely right about the twoupping - twin 1100cc and it's huge torque and comfort will just push you forward with huge mass loaded on it even on autobahns compared with single 650. My previous bike was 600cc inline four and my girlfriend thinks the boxer BMW is like a luxury ride compared with the old bike on high mile distances.

The prices of R1100GSes are quite acceptable now because of the R1200GS on the market, indeed - it's winter time too that reduces prices even more - it's the best time to buy it.

Not sure about it myself, but i've heard some say that 1100cc model is more superior to 1150 that has more final drive and other technical failures thru statistics. Some guys even exchange their 1150s to 1100s i've heard... (strange idneed).

If you go for boxer, then i really recommend to put bigger panniers for it. The BMW original plastic ones are in good aerodynamic design, but doesn't fit that much stuff as needed for two persons for the trip (at least for me). They're too tiny. Aluminium panniers are highly recommended. To go for solid topbox or use waterproof rolls on back is due to your own taste (rolls are better on shaky and gravelroads, solid top box is more secure in the crowded cities etc). My gf prefers the topbox because it supports the back on relaxing ride position, but i think if you put the rolls right, then they'll do the same.

What can i say, i really like my 1100 BMW - i have tested almost all of it's rivals and i'm glad i went for the boxer GS. It's the bike for me probably for the next 10 years.

Good luck what ever bike you'll go for!

Margus

[This message has been edited by Margus (edited 24 November 2004).]

Hi Margus,

I am glad you reply, I sort of expected that you would as I have read many of your posts and I know you like your 1100. Interesting about the panniers, you obviously prefer the alu boxes to say larger givi plastic panniers? I agree a top box for comfort of wife and security seems like a good idea.

How about any weak points to watch out for with the 94 model or the 1100 in general?

Skillo

Hi Skillo

I have a 98 GS and and have done 20000 touring miles without any major probs in the 3 years i've had it.(i don't use it much at home for transport)I think 94 was the introduction of the 1100 GS.
45000 km seems quite low for a 10 year old GS,especially from a large chunk of explorable land as yours.It may be genuine,in which case it would be a good buy.There are obviously parts that still wear in time with out doing the mileage.So check for corrosion and things like oily shocks, leaky fork seals.Check forks after you ride as they may have been wiped before you arrived.Are there any loose or missing spokes ?Check wheels for any play,also grab the swingarm and attempt to move it side to side and forwards and backwards(swingarm pivot bearings)Does the clutch slip ?It can get contaminated by leaky crankcase seal.How old is the battery ?This may sound basic and trivial but a new battery dosn't come cheap.Mine is still on the original but needs replacing now.
You can go on for ever with scrutinising but you need to know that the bike is not going to cost you a fortune after you buy it as all these little probs can add up to a tidy sum if you are paying someone else to do it.
It may be worth taking it to your dealer and getting them to do an MOT (or equivalent)as they will spot something out of place easier as they work with these bikes every day.
By reading from mags and listening to others etc. these bikes and the engine itself seem to be pretty solid.There does seem to be more teething probs with the newer 1150 and 1200 GS.If there were any with your intended buy at least they would have all been sorted by someone else.
They are just the tool for two up touring with all the luggage that goes with it.If i were spending more time off tarmac and on my own i would go for something lighter.
The BM panniers are a tad small.I want to sell mine and get something bigger for my next trip.

Good Luck !

Weak (!) point an all 11xxGSes is the rear frame connection with the engine. It may crack on heavy offroad (i.e jump) or going through huge pothole on the road on full of luggage and two up. For sure get the Touratech Hard Parts, that solve this issue if you want to ride the bike in more extreme conditions. They cost around 100 euros in Europe.

Second weak (relative) point is the dry clutch - it may overheat on extensive use on hot weather (i.e. city traffic, difficult offroad terrain) because the first gear on boxer engine is very long (makes to use clutch more). On the contrary, i must say the long first gear makes riding more comfortable too because of the engine healthy torque on low RPMs. I think the best way is just to be perventible - don't let the clutch overheat on those extreme conditions.

To be honest, i'd go for low mileage '97, '98, '99 models that have revised gearbox, seals and some other stuff made better by BMW for a full self confidence (i'm quite a pranoinc about the second hand bikes). Some say those three GS models are the best GSes in reliability ever. But indeed, it's really relative. I've seen '94 model that has crossed more than 500 000 kilometres with no major engine problems. So i think there aren't any major technical improvement diferences in those model years, only minor.

Now talking about weak points isn't a good idea - it may put other person to think about the whole thing on negative side - but i think you understand every bike has weak points on countable numbers. http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif

Well known fact is: testdrive them all! And you'll get the best suited for you.

Good luck, Margus

Sigoodacre, thanks for info, all good solid advice. Yes it does seem to have low km's for age, most similar age 1100's advertised recently for sale here in Oz have around 100,000 kms or more on them. So I will look very carefully whether condition matches km's. I had also decided (as you also suggest) that if I'm still interested after test ride then I'll get the shop to do a report, it will have to have a roadworthy certificate anyway.

Margus, once again thanks for your info.

I guess I could just rely on my own experience and knowledge gained through the ownership and maintenance of numerous other bikes. I mean the BMW oilhead really isnt that different to other bikes, besides the engine design, seperate gearbox, dry clutch, shaft drive and telelever forks??? The rest is pretty similar, isn't it???

Skillo

Yes, absolutely. And being the flat twin boxer makes it easyer maintain and repair too. Valve adjustment is a breeze compared with V- or inline engines. Well, maybe only thing that's more sophisticated is the fuel injection that need a special electronics to be adjusted, but i haven't heard even 1 story that it ever has failed. But almost every up to date bike has fuel injection nowadays anyway.

But it's good the bike has separate gearbox and dry clutch rooms in engine - no need to change oils and filter that often (you can do easily +5000km after the manual recommends to change oil for sure with no problems - the oils are quite clean after additional mileage because there's no gearbox and clutch dirt inside it as other bikes usually have), so it's pretty welcome on remote areas where you can't get the oil changed right on time.

If your bike has then ABS and katalyser are the options that differ from others japanese too. But as well there's nothing to maintain there.

Oh almost forgot to tell - if you've been on the japs bikes - the BMW turn signals system need a bit practice (knobs on the two handlebars that first seem to be illogical). Lot of ironic fun with them on my first testdive with GS i remember http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif. But now i even think them to be a bit better than japanese ones.

There's Clymer and Haynes manuals available for all R1100 models with competent price if you want to do all the work yourself and save some money skiping official BMW services...

Margus

[This message has been edited by Margus (edited 24 November 2004).]