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How many cloths do you pack?
I going from Portland to Tierra Del Fuego in January. I'll have a tent just in case I can't find a cheap hostel or motel. I'm fairly experienced, I've been on many week long trips but I've never on a 20,000 4 month one before. I have very limited space of course. My plan is to take two sets of cloths, three including what I'm wearing. Most of my stuff is the fast dry variety as I'll be hand washing most of the time. I'll have my riding boots and a pair of sneakers. Does this make sense?
I have every thing else covered. |
Sounds good to me and about what I take, if you find there is something else you need you can always buy it along the way.
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Sounds good. What about very HOT and very Cold? On such a long tour this is what I struggle with: Sub Tropical jungles up to 14K ft. Alti Plano and everything in between. :helpsmilie: I'm huge fan of Ex Officio underwear: Men's Give-N-Go® Brief | ExOfficio.com These are AMAZING! High tech fabric, breathes, resists odor, dries in just a few hours. I have their T shirts too. Expensive!! I've got 5 years out of my Ex Officio's. 2 - 3 pair all you need cause they dry so fast, so EASY to wash out in a sink or even plastic bag. NEVER use harsh soap or machine wash or dryer and they will last a LONG time. :thumbup1: Also like Merino Wool thin sweater as an under layer. Looks good for crossing borders or going out to dinner. One nice pair of quick dry REI light travel pants. No wrinkles, easy wash, quick dry, great in heat. Some versions have zip off legs. Expensive but tough. Conservative. For Cold: I'm old school, still use leather pants for cooler climates. Add thin, synthetic long johns under and rain pants over if cold. Good to below freezing. Wool blend socks, Balaclava, Gerbing Jacket. Ride Warm! :mchappy: For Heat: Sedici Full Mesh riding pants from Cycle Gear. Half price of KLIM or Rev' Just as good. ($112 on sale) My choice Mexico /Cent. America or anywhere brutal hot/humid. Once up in mid 80's or cooler, I go back to leathers. Storing leathers when not in use is a PITA, but I love them and feel secure in them. Crash tested. Misc. Couple T shirts, Keen sandals, walking Shorts, light down vest, 3 pair gloves, rain jacket to go over my waterproof riding jacket (for serious rain) All clothes pack down to nothing ... except my leather pants. doh |
Mollydog, so you take more than one riding suit? I have the Klim Latitude jacket and pants that I was going to wear the entire trip. I have mesh too but was going to leave it at home. I only have a 32/38 liter pannier cases plus a large Wolfman dry bag that goes on the back.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psx9tapvl8.jpg |
I like to travel light. In term of clothing, whether I go for one week, 4 months or one year, I find I pack usually the same amount of clothing! My list really depends on weather. Will I go through very cold to very hot? Layering and “intelligent” odour-resistant clothing is best.
My riding suit is better adapted to summer (as heat is more of a problem than cold) so vents and airflow are essential. For cold, layers and a 2 pieces rain suit that can be put over my trousers and riding jacket is my favourite solution and pack smaller than the bulkier thermal/rain liner insert. Then combo of thermal t-shirt (I love Under Armour and does not smell) , micro fleece, good quality feather jacket, Motorcycle jacket and on top the thin rain jacket. For intense heat, a long loose sleeve shirt (high wicking- I have a couple of those, found in outdoor shops). I always use riding long johns. I am still to find the ideals ones that would work for both heat and cold. IF colder I can always buy cheap stuff on the way and ditch it when not needed anymore. Always 2 bras only. Both sport bras, one black one white/flesh colour. Socks: mainly in wool. Smart wool has a nice range. Why wool? Because it does not stink after few days usage! Out of bike stuff: one outdoor beige trouser that dry very quickly, and one short. A small bikini can be useful for washing in public (rivers etc…) and maybe a tank top. I am small and my clothes are tiny too. Shoes: flip-flops (for dodgy showers!) and light trainers. Wool gloves liners, that can be used as glove come handy too. What used to take lots of space was the toiletry. Not anymore. I discovered a solid shampoo/conditioner that works for me and lasts a long time. I also carry a multipurpose moisturising cream (night/day face cream, body and hand cream all in one!). So toiletry bag is now tiny. I also carry a laundry solid soap (I buy it online when we starts then can buy in shops outside of Europe!). Those soaps wash anything. My luxury item are Marigold gloves, as the laundry soap is very aggressive on skin but very efficient. Much better than the liquid travel soap you can buy in travel shops for lots of money! And I do laundry very often. Essential item though is deodorant. Could not go without. Again for obvious reasons. So in term of clothing I carry very little. Whatever I may need in addition to my main list can be purchased (usually cheap) and discarded later to minimise my luggage. See pictures of our set up for London to Mongolia and back trip last year in my blog (link below) or in this thread. |
Take exactly what you would on a week long trip. I don't believe there is any difference the longer you go. Just wash your stuff whenever you can. I like icebreaker t-shirts. Takes a long time before they smell. Typically only have 3 pairs of boxers. 1 on, the other drying from a wash or waiting for a wash, and the third for the next rotation.
Warm gear depending on the climate you're heading into. Leave jeans at home. Usually have 2 t-shirts and a button shirt for if I'm invited to something. Same deal on the shirts as on underwear. Arrive somewhere you have a shower, and wash what you've been wearing. |
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I don't carry TWO riding suits ... just 2 pair riding pants: Leather pants and Mesh pants. I have only ONE riding jacket which is better in HEAT than it is in COLD. It's a First Gear Rainier (top of their line) good vents and the fabric itself flows air, unlike most synthetic jackets. Not good in super cold but pretty water proof. For cold I have to layer up under my jacket and use my Gerbing elec. to stay warm if temps get below about 45F. If your KLIM suit vents well enough for truly HOT-HUMID weather then all good. :thumbup1: But I've tested lots synthetic riding gear. To me ... Most ALL are too hot save full Mesh gear. Mesh gear begins cooling even at 10 mph, so pretty good off road ... but impossible if things get cold. Most good gear has good vents but often that is not enough in super heat. Mesh flows A LOT more air. But it's a problem for storage with Leather pants. I've got similar sized panniers (about 33 L each) and also use a Small Wolfman Duffel bag on top. Always room to spare on my month long trips. For longer rides I don't think I would need much more space than I have. The Wolfman is cavernous! I only fill up half way. https://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/p...-sX2RbMV-L.jpg Things that take up a lot of room are spare inner tubes, bead breaker, extra tools and misc. parts, rain jacket, toiletries. |
Lots of good info! Every time I walk past the bike I study the packing and have been making some improvements here and there. I found a convenient spot to mount some tool tubes, this will remove some of the stuff from the panniers.
I love the Klim Latitude and it vents well but I'm sure I'll suffer on the real hot days. One way I deal with extreme heat is to remove my riding pants and just ride in trousers. I know it's risky but I actually think I'm safer if I can get some relief. I'm thinking on bringing my Darian over pants too as their easy to remove for walking around in street pants. I'll carry two tubes of the proper size so I won't need to replace a 21" tube in my 18" tire ASAP. What about water purification? I'm thinking about this as it comes with a filter: Geigerrig G1 1200 Hydration Pack Thanks |
I ride with the klim full mesh jacket which comes with a waterproof liner and the Dakar pants. Ride from cold Alberta to 100f Colorado and it works fine. Just wear windproof layers under the jacket.
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always remember you can make semi permanent cold weather clothing out of newspaper and plastic bags underneath summer riding gear. much cheaper/adaptable and easy to replace or add to.
2 spare sets of clothes sounds good for a long tour, i've done 3 months with no riding gear, 3 sets of underwear 2 sets of trousers and a set of boots with a big grin on them. Also walked up and down Grand Canyon with the the same boots! The washing stops become a highlight after a while. I always remember them more than things I should really remember moreof! |
light down mid-layer
I've got the Latitude as well, and will be using it as my only jacket for my Americas journey next year. I used it for the first time on a 4-day trip in Ecuador, that had nearly every climate and weather possible. With the right underlayers, it can handle anything (well, up to a point, but at that point no one is riding).
I normally will just wear my t-shirt and the jacket under regular temps. But for added warmth I use a merino wool long sleeve baselayer. Smartwool or Icebreakers. Expensive ($80) but good. The wool wicks away sweat, so actually is fine in moderately warm temps, too. Use the 150 or 200 weight, depending on whether you naturally run hot or cold; 250 is waayyy to warm. Over that, if it gets colder or I'm at altitude, I actually have used a down jacket. This instead of a sweatshirt or fleece pullover because down packs much smaller. The light/ultralight down jackets on the market today are excellent, and designed for high altitude mountaineering where lightweight is as important as warmth. The Mountain Hardware Ghost Whisperer ($250) is the cream of the crop (7 oz!), but there are plenty of alternatives that are nearly as good and cheaper (I've used s Uniqlo ultralight jacket ($80) under my Latitude just fine). People don't think of wearing a down mid-layer under their moto-jacket, but it can add good warmth, is not too bulky or obstructive, and the best part is it takes up little room in your panniers. On that note, a mountaineering trick is to NOT use the stuff sack they provide. Instead, mush the jack in the crevasses and empty space---it takes up less room than the neat little stuff sack ball. Plus, you have a nice warm jacket for cool evenings off the bike that doesn't make you look like Mad Max or some spaceman. |
How many cloths do you pack?
I carry;
1 cotton shirt 3 t-shirts (two is enough) 1 casual jumper 2 pairs of underwear 1 pair of trousers (quick dry trekking type) 1 microfleece 1 waterproof jacket 1 waterproof gortex over trousers (lost doh!) Two piece wicking base layer (helly Hanson make good ones). Top and pants thermal base layer 1 hat and one "buff" type scarf. 1 pair of waterproof gloves. Then; RST riding suit Overmitts Altberg boots Teva Sandals 1 pair of thick socks 1 pair of normal socks 1 pair of Sealskinz (amazing!!!) Notes; That's quite a lot actually but I like to be able to look fairy casual, as often I volunteer at places I like along the way (my trips are usually at least a year long). If I was just riding that list would be halved. Something I'd add would maybe be a feather down jacket. Also I do wonder about getting rid of the RST riding thermals and water proof liners and just using my other clothes, in fact I'd probably do this in the future! Toiletries; Toothbrush and toothpaste Bar of soap (not really needed) Tube of hand sanitizer (essential!) Packet of baby wipes (essential!) Disposable razor blade. First Aid kit The hand sanitizer and baby wipes because I camp a lot. They save on valuable water! The used baby wipes always go in a rubbish bag and are taken to the garbage can - as tissue paper is and should be. Water filters; Hard not to recommend a Sawyer Mini. They look great and only twenty bucks. Better, you can connect it to any hydration pack. I use a MSR mini works, which is very simple, reliable and filters a lot of stuff, but physically filtering is a real chore so in future will be replacing it with some sort of gravity flow filter. Apart from all that, I have a stove, a pan, good tent, sleeping bag and liner, travel pillow, sleeping mat, iPhone, gps and charger, kindle (broken), travel documents, knife, hydration pack and 4lt bladder, maps and tools/spares for bike. This fits all in a 60lt saddle bag, 31lt rack pack and 7lt tank bag, with plenty of space left for 3 days of food and a day's worth of water (4-6lt). http://i.imgur.com/mbdddq6.jpg |
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If you only need a T shirt under in "normal" temps (60's, 70's, 80's??) then I'm pretty certain you will be par boiled when it gets really got and humid. Did you go down to the Amazonas region on Ecuador (referred to locally as the "Oriente" if I recall) Can be mid 90's to low 100's with 85% to 90% humidity. You'll also have to get through Mexico-Cent. America. If you go NOW (November through April) temps are "reasonable" but still generally hotter than "normal" range we're used to. I ended up strapping my jacket on rear rack, wearing back protector and elbow guards independent of the jacket. Remember, Gore-Tex works in COLD, but not in super heat. |
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That said, I like your suggestion. I have considered just scrapping the Latitude and buying a Traverse or something and then wearing body armor underneath. If it is super hot, the body armor is fine sans jacket. I've seen/read guys that do this in Vietnam, etc.---countries that are notoriously hot and humid. Ecuador can be hot, but the elevation helps offset that. At low elevation its coast is a lot like the coast of southern California, namely, desert coastal wherein the dry heat and cool ocean water makes for temperate Mediterranean climates. I did ride through the orient (i.e. east) for a day and it was hot and humid. Not the most enjoyable ride, but motion and venting kept it manageable. In the end, there is no single jacket that will work for high altitude and cold climates as well as hot humid jungle climates. I figure the best option is to get the most versatile jacket and then supplement with other gear, water, etc. On that note, I will be taking my Shoei Hornet 2 helmet rather than my Shoei 1100, even though my 1100 is a much better helmet---quieter, better protection, more vents, etc. This is because with the Hornet (a DS helmet) I can ride with the visor open and goggles on, which is much cooler than the street helmet in any condition. Just something to consider as well. For me, the comfort of my head is of primary concern, then I care about my hands, then torso, then arms, then feet, then legs, in that order. Your priorities may vary. |
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I've been using a Shoei flip (Multi-Tech) 5 years now. It's worn out so I need something new. I like the Hornet but like the quietness of a flip up and don't like googles for long road rides. I'll probably go with the Shoei Neo tech or use my never used HJC Sy-Max ll (a good hot weather helmet). I can flip it up and use sunglasses (but no face protection in this mode :nono: but a lot of air flow) |
work on taking less and hit op shops, if you require anything else cheers
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I disagree. I always cater for the hottest temps and layer up for cold. The klim full mesh jacket was great at a 100.
A windproof puffer jacket under with merino base layer and a rain jacket over is typically enough in the cold. Bring winter gloves though. Have heated grips and a wind deflector like the giant loop one (or milk bottles) is a must. And a windproof buff. |
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Riding the next day, the gradual evaporation from the helmet internals cooled my head and was much more pleasant than the earlier riding experience. By the end of that day of riding the helmet was just about dry inside = rinse and repeat until the weather changed. (the "pith helmet" is the source of that idea, for me). Quote:
Can you fit layers under it OK? The layered principle is well proven across all forms of outdoor activity. I tend to practice the principle by adding outer layers if only because that is much easier to do when wearing riding gear. |
A fit of a jacket is very personal. But I don't have any issues with it. I wear a merino t-shirt anyway, hot or cold. So all I would need is a puffer jacket.
The rain jacket goes over top. Although, the induction comes with a really nice and thin rain/wind liner. Supposedly it can go over or under. I think under it probably easier. Anyway. I've had a tourmaster mesh jacket, and the klim is way better on venting. So not all mesh it the same. In Patagonia I also had heated pads in my jacket. Sewn pockets for the pads into my softshell. I now use a puffer jacket but it wouldn't be too hard to incorporate that for the freezing temps. Making a vest out of webbing or something. Or just increase layers. Technology has advanced a fair bit on insulation wear. I find keeping the hands, and to a lesser degree feet, warm key for overall warmth. The common suggestion is that a warm core keeps the hands and feet warm. I find the opposite. You can always layer up, but you can't strip down. Overheating sucks. |
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And overheating DOES SUCK! Sometimes it's just TOO BLOODY HOT to ride. We don't have much humidity in California ... so when you add high humidity to super high temps ... it's tough. A lot of dealing with it is in your head. Easier when I was younger ... now, not as tough ... I'm a Wuss. :helpsmilie: For keeping warm wearing mesh you'll need both under layers and OVER. I slip on a light rain jacket (packs small) over mesh jacket or pants. But this won't work if truly cold unless you've got many layers plus elec. gear. bier |
Good points in the last few posts in particular.
Down filling needs "fluffing up" to be at it's most efficient (or any insulation material actually); my analogy for this is the sleeping bag which provides better thermal properties on the top compared with the bottom which is compressed by the occupants' body weight. So, I guess any thermal layer will work better when it is compressed as little as possible during riding; easier said than done. My thoughts about the cold hands/feet issue is that we feel those first because of the physiological reaction to dropping temps. So, while the medical advice concerning the maintenance of core body temp is correct it is also necessary to maintain temps of the "peripherals" - the toes and fingers. We all have the fat layers around our midriffs (some more so than others) whereas our extremities have little to no fat reserves and the inplace blood vessels are very close to the surface - heat loss is inevitable. Feeling cold fingers and toes is an early warning to our brains. These are typical of my musings when riding undemanding main highways. |
Natural materials evolved, manmade invented
I've just re-read all of the earlier posts and the message continues to be that learnt in other outdoor activities, especially those practised at high altitude.
Mankind has not yet found artificial materials to beat down, feather and wool. Cotton and leather have a role to play in the right circumstances. I have recently been re-assessing my clothing possessions and have sent an amount of stuff away in the Salvation Army collection bags. ps I forgot to mention silk - I have a couple of silk sleeping bag liners. |
:scooter:
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The body is prepared to abandon the odd finger to preserve the heart, lungs and brain. It is however designed for 7 mph not 70. Experience in cold climates would suggest to me you do all the above. You want to be fit so the circulation moves the heat round. Unfit fatties feel cold sooner, they are just more popular when flying with Argentine Rugby teams. You want fuel for the fire, so get the porridge and pasta at meal breaks and top off with chocolate, nuts etc. You need water not coffee. Keep the heat in with insulation. You need a size bigger to avoid crushing layers or constricting blood flow. I have never had to carry the same kit from Arctic to desert. A couple of layers for UK to Finland is as easy fit in the sidecar. The coldest I have ever felt involved alcohol to dehydrate, make sure clothing was not finely adjusted and a missed hot meal. I love the idea of riding in a pith helmet. :rofl: Andy |
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I have met with guys who have lost their toes after a time spent on Everest, for instance - their motivation to "be there" (because it is there) was a fair trade in their eyes, for the loss of digits. On the mountains I suspect that the toes go first because the fingers are used more frequently. Perhaps it would be the same in "extreme riding" but I have never met anyone who has suffered to that extent by riding. Pith helmets: Yes, the next stage would have been to soak some clothing in water as well as the helmet but it didn't come to that - all very well in a country with copious supplies of non-polluted water of course. ps I do hope that these posts are of assistance to the OP with his packing list. i.e. not too :offtopic: |
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Modern boots have virtually eliminated frostbite from high altitude climbing. Fingers, noses, etc. are still at risk, but the advancement of boot technology means that few Himalayan climbers lose toes these days (crisis situations where someone is trapped 40 hrs above 8000m notwithstanding). But back on topic. I wrote up a layering guide to expound on many of the themes discussed here. Hopefully, it will help OP or at least other riders with managing their gear selection. http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...365#post521564 |
How do modern boots protect feet/toes once totally soaked through? I'm assuming mountain climbers aren't fording streams or rivers? (hope not!)
One of the valuable lessons I learned early on in my enduro racing experience was to keep feet dry. Noobs would power through water crossings, kicking up huge sheets of water, soaking themselves and the buddy riding alongside. All great fun in 80F temps! But NOT smart in Freezing temps :freezing: I got my feet wet in one Winter enduro, they were then quick frozen once the route headed up over 6K ft. and it began snowing. doh Major hurtin'. From then on I kept feet UP on water crossings, stayed dry as possible in cold weather. Splashing through streams looks great on camera but really hurts later! So, be aware, if riding in lowlands in RAIN :rain: ... and then going UP to altitude, make sure things are dry. Soaking wet feet will freeze quick ... hands too. :oops2: Change of socks and spare gloves A MUST. I remember riding up from the bottom of Copper Canyon (Batopilas) in 1998. Elevation about 2300 ft. Warm, nice ... but raining this day. The fun dirt road goes sharply UP towards Creel ... so up we went enjoying a dust free and high traction ride, me on a new KLR test bike and buddy on CX650 Honda. Our rain gear was limited as it was March in Mexico! (Dry Season!) But the Sierra Tarahumaru is like our Sierra Nevada weather wise: Unpredictable ... and possibly deadly. As we climbed we got wet. Then, round 6,000 ft. it got cold, began to snow. Snow became a "White Out". We found refuge (cafe') at top of the hill at 8,000 ft. Melted my boots trying to dry them out on a 55 gallon drum stove. Hands and feef both painfully frozen. |
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My guys were around the high peaks in the 1970s - eons ago compared with your article, to which I have just responded. :thumbup1::thumbup1: |
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A guide once shared with me the concept of "sacred socks" to prevent trench foot, which is where you reserve one pair of extra socks that you never climb in no matter how wet your other pairs are. Each night, you switch into your sacred socks when you get in your sleeping bag, then remove them in the morning. This way, your feet are guaranteed to have 6-or-so hours of dry time every day, thus avoiding the conditions for trench foot. I've never ridden in continual rain for more than a day or two, but I could see the value of sacred socks in any prolonged wet riding travel scenario. Frankly, I doubt any ADVer has gotten trench foot, but I can attest that a pair of nice, warm, dry socks every night is a private heaven that is its own reward for anyone that has spent a full day in the rain or river crossing. |
I've used Goretex boot liners the same way. The actual boot is a *** to dry, but while over boots make more sense, I've found them too annoying to ride in on anything except proper roads. You can't recce a ford with plastic over your boots.
Wool socks obviously because while vile when wet they still insulate. It's also good to put new foam insoles in the boots each season. I have some silicone desiccant packs that can be stuffed inside a wet boot to draw out the water and then be dinged in the first hotel that'll let you near their microwave. Probably a bit bulky for the solo RTW chaps. Don't do what I saw a chap do in Finland; roast boots over open fire until the soles melt then ride out wearing borrowed trainers :freezing: Andy |
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Bubble wrap does a similar job as the newspapers and is naturally water resistant so it doesn't need the poly bags aspect. Get enough of it and it doubles as a sleeping mat, but it is bulky to pack, of course. |
Secrets of Warmth by Hal Weiss. Great book on dressing for for warmth ,comfort or survival.
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Light and versatile, for all climates
I've tried just about every high tech fabric for undergarments out there and have come to the conclusion that nothing can outperform merino whool when it comes to regulate body temp, wether it is scorching hot or freezing cold. Also, nothing wicks sweat or dries faster after having been washed (a necesity if you want it dry the morning after it has been washed the evening before). Merino also works well in keeping you warm even when wet. Merino is also "self clensing, or so they say".Merino also feels way more comfortable than both synthetics and cotton... unlike other whool, it does not itch. Only downside is that it is expensive and not as durable as synthetics. I've also come to the conclusion that layering with clothing that can be worn on their own is far better than having lots of single purpose garments. I therefore often replace the insulating layer in my riding gear with a fleece pant and jacket, which can also be worn as an outer layer. I also find that multiple thin layers are better than a few thicker ones when it comes to regulating body temp, both on and off the bike. It also offers more versatility and saves on space and weight. On the torso I prefer garments that can be zipped or buttoned up rather than sweaters, because it makes it far easier to regulate body temp when riding or when getting off the bike. It also makes it easier to remove and put on. As I usually ride very long days I will most often go through great changes in climate in a single day. Having an outer layer that protects me from wind and water, and several insulating layers that can be opened or closed, makes for less hassle, more time and distance, and more comfort. Button down shirts that can have its sleeves rolled up or worn as a thin jacket ior as a dress shirt s a must have on every trip. I've done a few trips with kevlar jeans, sweaters or liners, combined with removable protectors for increased versatility, enabling me to leave the cordura at home. I've come to the conclusion though that they are far inferior for protection from both the elements and in the event of a crash. It is also a cumbersome and uncomfortable option for riding through changing climates. The kevlar pants are also hot and uncomfortable off the bike, and dry slow when washed. They do make for more versatility and lighter packing though, and you can just get off the bike and walk arround without looking like a space invader. As I usually ride without much more than the occasional fuel stop and a some speedy drink and chow before I park the bike for the night, the benefits of being able to walk arround in my gear do not outweigh the dual purpose garments drawbacks for my type of riding. I now bring the cordura, leave my Kevlar at home, and slip into my comfortable cargos upon my arrival. No more kevlar liners for me... Cotton has no place on my trips, nor should it on any one elses... in my opinion Clothing, on all trips more than a few days BMW Rallye jacket and pants Boots that can be walked in... Looking to buy a pair of Altberg now Thin riding gloves with cuffs Three season gloves or Gerbing electric on long cold trips Merino t-shirt + 1-2 spare Merino boxer shorts + 1-2 spare Merino socks, thin + 1-2 spare Whool/Synthetic ski socks, thick, 2 in total Merino long underwear, 2 top and 1 bottom Fleece pants with pockets (can be worn as insulating layer or as regular pants when the cargo pants are being cleaned) Fleece jacket with wind stop Micro fleece jacket Button down shirts, fast wicking x 2 Hoodie Cap Sunglasses Cargo Zip-off pants, fast wicking Belt Compact sneakers or sandals Gerbing electric jacket (on long cold trips only) Hat with mosquito net (on some trips) Swim trunks/shorts (on some trips) One piece rain suit, on some trips (seconds as a protective shell in the cold) Ear plugs, for riding and sleeping Leatherman Wallet (sometimes also a fake wallet) Water proof compression bag, ultralite camping type Laundry net/bag Small waterproof bacpack, ultralite Helmet (shark evoline) Water proof notepad + pen, pencil and magic marker Toiletries Compact fast wicking camping towel Tooth brush (children size) Castille soap bar (can be used for entire body, dishes, clothes... everything) Tooth paste Hair wax (don't troll me for being so vain) Baby wipes Toilet paper Cleenex (seconds as toilet paper) Razor Sun tan lotion Mosquito repellant Laundry detergent, single packs Wash basin plug camping Tarp and/or self standing two person tent without a vestibule Insulated air mattress Sleeping bag Head lamp Survival tin / first aid kit Paracord Clothes pins Mathces/lighter Pot Spork Thermocup Food: bread, PBJ, instant coffee, sugar, snacks, brandy, tobacco, water. Electronics Dual sim smart phone USB-charger, + 12v Ear buds Action camera Compact camera Mini gorillapod Travel adapter Kindle Powerbank Keyring flashlight GPS-tracker (Spot tracker) Other Tools, spares, tyre repair kit, pump, etc Work shop manuals Papers Spare keys Firts aid kit and meds Secret item Psyllum husks... because it makes for a quick and clean emptying of the bowels... without the need of fifty meeters of toilet paper, i.e. due to some local cuisine making havoc on your digestion system. When you need to go on a desert highway with land mines off the shoulder on both sides, you will praise god for reminding you to take it... A clean ass also prevents monkey butt and riding sores, so Psyllum husks and baby wipes is a must have for all those long consequitive days of riding. I no longer carry a cooker, camel back, water containers, or a whole lot of other stuff I have found i can live without. If you have not tried camping with a tarp instead of a tent, you should look into the possibilities it offers. Less is more. I only buy extra food if I know I will be bush camping, and then only what I can cook on an open fire. I try to eat dinner in a restaurant whenever possible. Breakfast and lunch is usually bread and PBJ next to the bike, to save time. |
This is a difficult one, especially when spanning multiple zones. For example if touring South America, it could be 39c in one place, yet down to -15c on the altiplano.
Carrying clothes and camping items to deal with those extremes will inevitably mean that you're hauling around some dead weight some of the time. Yes, it's good to learn from mountain climbers and polar explorers etc... but you have to take into account they are constantly moving and generating heat. On a motorcycle, particularly on the road, you're sitting still, and facing 80mph winds. No amount of layering is going keep you warm when the temperatures really fall. You need heated clothing. Also it's all very well packing clothing specifically for warm/cold weathers, but don't forget that you might need something decent too if you want to visit some nicer places. For example you'll look like an idiot going to a bar or restaurant in buenos aires in your moisture resistant North Face hiking trousers and trekking boots. Similarly if your host invites you to a party, or to an event. |
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Handling the transitions is the hard bit. Good planning helps and having things go your way. We've seen dozens of travelers carrying full camping and cooking gear and hardly ever use it. Noobs always start out heavy ... then lighten up with experience and time on the road. Hey, to each his own. |
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I usually take about 3 days worth of clothes. I stop in towns and use the laundromat once or twice a week when I'm riding for more than one week.
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I've been back for a while now. I put on 17,000 miles and was gone 3 1/2 months. I took 4 sets of clothes but I could have gotten by with 2 sets (wearing one and another packed). All my stuff was fast dry except for one pair of Levi's. Levi jeans were nice and I'd wash them if I knew I had 2 days for them to dry. I'd say three sets would be perfect for most. I washes my stuff every night in the sink with the motel shampoo. If I camped I'd wash them with some Dr Bronners.
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