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The best tool ever!!!! Bead breaker.
Hey One and All
I was lent a tool by an Australian friend who gave it to me to help remove my tyres, and WOW it makes life easy. I did it in half the time I normaly take and with out any cuts, blood blisters, sweating or even swearing! I have found the link to where they are from, unfortunatly they as far as I can see only sell in Australia, But I am sure if would be possable to get them to post to Europe etc. They are well made and strong. The extra weight I find to be not a problem compaired to how easy it is to break the bead. It also can be used to keep the beads in the well of the rim when refitting the tyre. Tyrepliers Bead Breakers Hope this helps someone. BikerfromSark |
It's technique, not technical.
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looks good g. its not the same one as i bought yesterday. mines about 30cm's long. and is made of two parts. with a swivel mechanism on the base where the lever gets inserted. you insert the first piece then pull the aditional lever back opening up the bead. im not sure how easy it will be to get the lever in there in the first place however. bit of grease and sweat and blood i can imagine. will let you know how it goes this weekend. (if i get a flat that is!). you going to order that one for africa?
ciao hombre. r |
With some practice it’s not to hard to break the bead without assistance from other people or a bead braker.
The hard way: http://www.actiontouring.com/pic/spak.jpg This actually works (even on oilheads with huge tires). The trick is to press the metal-piece as close as possible to the rim. On the pic this is done with a 20cm (8 inch) tire lever and a 13/19mm socket (from original toolkit). The rim is a tubeless R80GS rim. It’s possible to use only one tire lever on the rest of the process but I prefer two. Some people find a small wise grip suitable (attached to the rim) handy when they should get the tire back on. The easy way: http://www.actiontouring.com/pic/st1.jpg It’s smart to secure the centerstand before you do this. It is easier if you have alu-panniers, remove the one on the left side and place it underneath the one at the right side. Stand on the wheel and pull the bike toward you, make sure the stand is as close to rim as possible: This method could also be modified to work by using a sidestand, I had to do this on my Honda a few times. Finished: http://www.actiontouring.com/pic/st2.jpg Other options: If you have a friend with another bike it might be easier to use his bike. If you have a car available then place a jack under the car (as if you where changing tires) and put your wheel underneath the jack. |
I use a 6" C-clamp. Works for me.
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Anyone use Ride-On or SLIME?
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If it is really hot I prefer this way compared to “the hard way”. With full touring setup (43 litres of petrol, 15 litres of water ++) I guess my bike weighs about 270 kg. But you are not supposed to carry it Quote:
BMW tubeless rims (on the pics above) are worse, at least two minutes (the hard way), or five minutes with the center stand method. I would say it’s impossible to break the bead with boots, at least for me. On the other hand it’s much safer when you get a puncture. Quote:
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It might be possible to build your own tubeless rims with epoxy and other goop but I don’t see the point. It’s other ways to make them run tubeless, if you prefer a tubeless setup. I have used tubeless rims for 250kkms, now I’m using ordinary rims most of the time. Personally I find seating the bead harder then breaking it (on tubeless rims). Maybe I should buy a quality pump some day… |
Hey Robin
Yer I plan to take 'mine' to africa (its now been donated to my trip as I like it so much!). It would be good to see a pic of yours to see how it works. However I like the look of the box spanner approach used on the BMW's wheel. I will give that a try next time. I have cut down the stud thread to as long as I need to save on weight and space. I don't use lubicant simply becuase I don't want to have to carry it with me and waste water much better spent drinking, not such an issue here in Europe at the mo! George |
One last question...
Can some one please describe how they use the stand to break the bead when on their own. I prop my bike with a bit of tube. But even with a pannier can see how it can pivert enough to break the bead with out coming off the surport. Cheers George |
NOt a problem if you know how. :thumbup1:
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Im thinking of buying such a device. You could easily make a bracket to hold it on the outside of your panniers or subframe.
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A piece of 2 or 21/2 inch angle iron 4 inches long and a hammer will get just about any tyre bead off the rim [car truck tractor bike].
However if your aim is bad and you worry about dinging the rim ,then use the angle iron pressed up close to the rim and a long lever of 2x4 as Patrick describes to push down on the tyre -as you push down ,tap the angle iron against the rim so that it enters the gap between the tyre and the rim edge and thereby prevents the tyre from springing back . There is a bit of a knack to it but it never fails . I like the look of the bead breaker shown above but it is a bit heavy ,however you could use it on a wheel still mounted on the bike to do a fast repair . I have never found C clamps to be any good as they always seem to slip away from the bead . I imagine that most travellers here are doing a lot of travelling and wearing their tyres out fast ,so the rubber should be still newish and pliable . Usually you can get them off the bead by stamping on them . |
By the way.
I emailed the company in Aus and they have a UK distributer. Im waiting to here back from the UK guys. ill post up the details if i remember ! :rolleyes2: |
I personally believe that carrying a special tool just to break the bead on a tire is......nuts.
I'd have one if changing many tires professionally, but this makes no sense to me when traveling, none, nada, zippo...:) Think.... |
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