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What a good excuse for a ride . |
Sorry I must have missed the international ordering page... or any ordering page come to think of it! :eek3:
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Or you could search for a stockist using an internet search engine? I found the one that is top left on the page: Their website is Sutto's Motorcycle Supply They have an online shop. Any bricks and mortar retailer without an internet presence in the 21st century isn't going to be doing well (or has already gone bust). All of the above assumes you're actually interested in purchasing the item. If not I sorry to trouble you. Kindest regards |
Posts moved to appropriate forum
Hi
The off topic discussion regarding the BAM has been moved to http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...tire-bam-55110 Hope nobody minds, Ta Chris |
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No need to ride 25,000k's to get one, we in the far flung places of the world heard about a new fangled idea called international post a while back and now have a heap of shiny new red vans running around, not to mention all these idiots riding honda C110's on the footpath. :rofl: |
another vote for the Terra X -Works a treat, small and well made.
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Stange, I didn't want to pay the same in postage/custom charges as the value of the item!
Pete |
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The lightweight tool is a "pin/plate pusher" not a riviting tool but, The biggest prob with "in the field" chain repairs is pushing a rivited or peened pin out of the link. Some tools require you to grind the riveted head off the pin before use but the lightweight MP one will push them out as is. It has plates with it that keeps the side plates aligned when pushing them on to a new master link. It's important as I'm sure most of you know, not to over compress the o-rings on o-ring chains when putting the plates on. This is where a chain tool gives you that control. Sometimes you get little spacers that you clip in over the o-rings to stop this when pushing the plates on otherwise you have to be careful and try and match to the existing plates as best you can. An adjustable spanner can help as a makeshift vernier gauge. These clips are very handy for field repairs! The breaker/riveter tools are usually a bit more heavy duty, and I don't know of a light weight one. Without a riveting tool, peening of the pin is something that can be done with a hammer and makeshift anvil but it doesn't require too much. The hollow pin type "master link"" will need a centre punch and solid chain pin careful use of a variable pressure aplicator. Again an adjustable spanner will help match the riveted head to the other rivets. As for hammering the pins out in the field with a centre punch and hammering the plates on ect, well, it's up to you but when your options are limited you gotta do something. I have seen a few broken chains and a fair few of those have been at the master link ect. Even on chains that have been fitted "professionally". They can write your crankcase off in some cases! Don't forget to grease up the new link and o-rings, v important! I'm no chain expert but I know it's an important area and when you think of the abuse and stress it's under you just know it's something you have to get right. All the best. Dave. |
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Can't remember where I got it from but I think it was about ten squids.
A quick goggle search finds lots of stockists |
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I've just got one, mail order Aus to UK £52. Loooks great- compact and light but pretty strong. Not used it yet but when I have I'll report back :thumbup1: |
I don't want to appear dense but why would you want to bother with a chain breaker? I agree with Tony P, why not just file the heads off and knock them out with a punch/nail... The thing to remember, is that if its a hard link that's broken, nearly every 'chain breaker' out there won't do squat. I'd just replace it with a split link and never worry about it again.
Makes all sorts of things easier as well like taking the wheel in and out,changing sprocket sizes from long geared road size to off road/high altitude windy roads etc.... Can't see that being done with an endless chain. Just make sure that the chain you buy is over length, split it down to the smallest (road) length , then you've got a short length of matching links that you can use for different sprocket sizes or even to replace a length of broken chain. In 25 years I've never had a problem with split links failing under use. Carry a couple of spares in case you lose a pin in the sand or just wear and tear and don't worry about working with your chain ever again,it allows you to tailor your bike to different conditions, which as I see it is a good thing. :thumbdown: |
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However, I have had a normal link break out on the trail (I suspect a stone got caught between the chain and sprocket) and it was a pretty straight forward task to use my little chain breaker to remove the bent and splayed bit of chain and put in a new section (spare from when I first fitted the chain) with two split links. I think that would be a real faff to do with a file and a punch. I may never need it again but my "chain repair kit" is something I always carry. Each to there own I suppose. |
Hey guys, I sell a pretty good quality chain breaker kit made by Stockton Tool Company.
http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/20955szlJ/11561132.jpg Chain Breaker Kit (13 piece) My price: $39 Cycle Gear carries the same kit for $89.99! Cycle Gear - STOCKTON TOOL COMPANY: Chain Breaker and Rivet Tool Kit, |
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