A bunch of small things...
 

A bunch of things I would appreciate some advice or tips on:

A. I need to buy a bottle jack. For an overloaded 110 what tonne rating do I need, and are there any brands to avoid? Is a cheap end Draper ok for instance?
[ 5 tonne seems a conservative choice - any recommendations for a brand? // I have a high lift jack, but the vehicle isn't exactly stable when it's jacked up for prolonged mechanical fixing, especially if requires some elbow grease...]


B. Likewise, I need to buy a Fire Ext. Are there any models that you can use more than once? I had a small wire fire on my last trip, used my fire ext. to put it out, but then the fire ext was useless and it was hard to buy another one.
[ I did take two small cheap ones with me, but after putting out a kitchen fire at a roadside stall with one, and using the 2nd for my small wire fire, I was left with two that had plenty of powder left inside them, but no pressure, so they were useless. So I was wondering if there was a model that allowed more than one use ]


C. I need some tyre levers and a repair kit for my XZY's. Any suggestions to for cheapest places to get these?
[Thanks Roman - have you bought or used any of these? I've looked at some of the cheaper ones in shops, but they don't seem suitable for chunky 4x4 tyres? ]


D. How reliable are Turbo's on 200 tdi's? Mine is of unknown age and milage, but a new one is £400. Is it perhaps worth getting recon'ed for only £140 odd?
[There is definatly oil in the large pipe poking out the front of it - I replaced it a few weeks ago - but the mechanic said that was normal and that they don't get many turbo's that go (loads of Freelanders though ;-) ]


E. Injectors for a 200 TDi are quite expensive, but mine are the original ones, now over 12 years old. Is it worth replacing them every so often like it is on Landcruisers?
[ OK, I may get them looked at. They seem to be something that you shouldn't buy a cheap set off ebay of - they are quite importent ]


F: I also need a MultiMeter. Any suggestions? I don't know what functions I need and which ones would be useful...
[ Thanks Roman - I was thinking of something that had a analogue/digital reading of voltage levels etc? What is the advantage of the one you linked too?]


G: Any suggestions for a large '12 volt rechargable' torch? LED would be best.
[ Have gone for a "Everlife Forever Shake Torch " - basically a rechargable LED torhc that you shake to recharge. Sounds too good to be true, but fin all teh same....http://www.led-torches.co.uk/product...ake-Torch.html


Many thanks!

Hello Darren,

A: 5T is a good choice.

B: Why not using two cheap 1L disposable fire extingishers placed in different locations in the car? If one fails, there's still the other.

C: Checkt this: http://www.tooled-up.com/searchresul...SearchButt.y=0

D: If they the same as in the 300Tdi, they are as (un)reliable. Having it checked and reconditioned slightly improves your chance of success :-)

F: You can use Sealey Auto Probe: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp...ley-Auto-Probe

Hi Darrin,

TURBO: Is there oil in the pipes? A drop or two is normal for an oldie turbo. Any more and you may need a new one.

(Mine is also getting elderly, so if you find out any good stuff do share!)

INJECTORS - you can get them spray-tested cheaply. Mine were pretty coked up at 130k (300tdi) and a change was worthwhile. Cheap(er) sets on ebay.

EXTINGUISHERS - I use the same method as Roman, they're pretty cheap these days. Alternatively, maybe you could use a refillable CO2 extinguisher? With an adapter this would also do your tyres as well (I think).

Richard,

I think CO2 is rather useless for automotive fires. In the absence of halon, well at least in the EU, the next best thing is foam. Powder is messy but cheap.

I've got the cheapo powder ones, but I thought CO2 would be really suited to electrical/flammable liquid fires. Isn't foam a bad idea on anything electrical?

Richard,

Not anything. 12V electrical installations are not an issue at all. What you need to be concerned with is burning liquids. In motorsports AFFF foam is currently a substitute for halon. Check this: http://www.lifeline-fire.co.uk/extin...egulations.htm

CO2 may starve a fire of oxygen but is pretty useless in open spaces and won't cool hotspots like water or foam.

Interesting. Although I wasn't thinking so much about electrocution, more the after-effects of spraying something wet into complex wiring or electronics. In racing it's clearly safety first - vehicle second, but for remote trips it's a little more complicated.

Mind you I doubt the foam is 'wet' enough to say, short a 12v battery?

A. I need to buy a bottle jack. For an overloaded 110 what tonne rating do I need, and are there any brands to avoid? Is a cheap end Draper ok for instance?

Its a compromise between weight and height, have you had a look at a hi-lift jack, no crawling under the vehicle, and will get you out of deep holes, plus will do a dozen other things.

B. Likewise, I need to buy a Fire Ext. Are there any models that you can use more than once? I had a small wire fire on my last trip, used my fire ext. to put it out, but then the fire ext was useless and it was hard to buy another one.

The powder extinguishers are good for putting out most types of fires - solids, liquids, electrical, metal. BUT will let a liquid fire re ignite. Foam reduces the chances of liquid fires re igniting. Powder can also be used to protect you from the radiant heat of a large fire - time to run away at least.

C. I need some tyre levers and a repair kit for my XZY's. Any suggestions to for cheapest places to get these?

Use the hi-lift jack to break the beads on your tyres, cheap bendable tyre levers are not a good idea.

F: I also need a MultiMeter. Any suggestions? I don't know what functions I need and which ones would be useful...

Volts and Ohms does most things, but so does a simple 12V circuit tester with a probe and globe. Ohms tests for continuity in a circuit without power being supplied, volts checks that the circuit actually supplies power.

BTW electrical fires - sounds like some fuses are missing or the wrong type are fitted. My SIIA LR only has one unfused circuit and thats from the battery to the starter solenoid. Surely newer LRs are better than that?

Many thanks for all of the replies - very helpful! I've made comments in my original post above.:thumbup1:

Darren,


I use the Tyre Pliers kit that comes with two levers. Frogs Island may have them.



For servicing injectors try:
RVS Auto Group Ltd
Unit N
Newcombe Drive
Swindon
Wiltshire SN2 1DZ

Ask for John
Tel. 01793 421 166
Fax 01793 496767


Of course you can use a multimeter to obtain a more precise information on the status of the circuit. The probe is better value for money and more reliable than a cheap multuimeter. It is also easier to use but lacks current measurement. I'd go for a self ranging unit with a min. 20A DC current range, large digits and a sturdy rubber protective holster. Remember to carry a supply of spare fuses.

I can recommend the Sho-me hand held recahrgeable halogen lamp ( http://www.999supplier.co.uk/catalogue/im050010.html ). Very sturdy and comes with a handy charger bracket.

Darren, have your tried a high lift adaptor that goes into your chassis, it does make your high lift quite a bit more stable, the other thing I find is make sure your vehicle is very well chocked before jacking it, I find the diagonally opposite wheel at the other end to where you are jacking is the best as this is where most of the load will be when jacked. Well chocked with and adaptor, does help to make it a bit more stable.

http://www.firstfouroffroad.co.uk/jackin5.jpg

I have tried a few different adaptors and found this style by far the best, also helps space the highlift out from the back to help it clear your ladder and spare wheel carrier.

Other than that, what about and el-cheapo trolley jack, not all that heavy and very useful.

If your going to do repairs on the side of the road, make sure you also bung the wheel you have just take off under the chassis to support the weight if the vehicle if it does decide to return to earth.



Mutli-meter, anything will do really, would`nt go overboard, as long as it does the basics. I find a little test light more useful myself for most jobs checking to see if there is power somewhere.

As for turbo and injectors, if it is running well, I`d also leave it alone, they are not the sort of thing just to sh1t them selves in a hurry, as long as there is no excessive whistle from the turbo let it go. You can spend a lot of money replacing it, for very little gain.

Thanks Col,

Yes, I have one of those adapters, and had chocked the wheels, but it didn't seem very stable (working on the front), and both of the high-lifts I've had have quickly refused to go down after jacking a vehicle up - so have had to kick the high-lift out of the way. Am I just unlucky, or have others found this?

Hi-lifts are really susceptible to dirt, even small bits of grit can stop the mech working properly. If it sticks when jacked up, GENTLY move the lever back and forth until the mech clicks - it should do eventually. Takes a knack but it's much safer than kicking.

You'll find cleaning and oiling work wonders. Some people wrap them in cling film to keep the sand out.

Are you still overhauling your 200tdi? I have a brand new water pump (acquired in error a year or two ago). Swopsies or offer? No idea what they cost.

Yep, sounds like lack of lubrication to me, if it happens again give it a hit with some WD40.

turbo inlet oil
 

If you have oil in the air inlet to your turbo, it is most likely from the breather of the top of the engine. Landrovers, especially the older indirect motors suffer from this. In extreme cases the engine will feed on its own oil vapour,revs its nuts off, and destroy itself. I always vent the oil breather into a seperate catch tank (pop bottle), to avoid this risk.