Croatia, Summer 2008
 

Hi,

Having dragged the family around Morocco in April we are now looking forward to the next trip and have been toying around with Croatia.

I know of a few people that take organised trips down there, but we would prefer to do it on our own or with perhaps another family.

Are there any good books/sites worth looking at for background info on the area?

At this stage I know absolutely nothing about the country, although a couple of people have recommended it and both have said it's like stepping back in time 20yrs at least which really appeals!

I'm particulary interested in finding out:
- Camping situation - can we wild camp, are there camp sites around?
- Places of interest, particularly that might appeal the children. We will want to visit some of the coastal regions as well as some of the more rural areas.
- Good source of digital maps to run with TTQV.
- The state of the off roading tracks - we are happy to venture off into the undergrowth, but I don't think my wife will be too happy if we have to spend all day winching ;-)
- Language - speaking English and some French, how easy is it go get by? Are there any phrase books worth getting?

We will be travelling via Landcruiser + home made off road trailer (4th child due in December).

So any pointers would be appreciated.

You can camp wherever you find good land ( without mines :-) ).
Campsites are widely spread along coast, inland not too much campsites
but always is easy to find pensions and room accomodations.

Well, there is much too see in Croatia. How many days do you intend to spend ?

Along coastline and in area of mountain Velebit we usually "offroad". Gravel
roads are very common and vary from "motorways" to tricky routes.

If you are speaking english - no problem at all.

Best regards

Hi Antek,

Are mines a big problem?


I guess that we would have around 7-10 days there - we would aim for 2-3 days on the coast, and then more inland. SOme of the cities would be of interest only if interesting enough to the children (Roman ruins, etc), otherwise we are there for the scenery.

OK. We would mainly be off roading as a more interesting way of getting from A to B rather than roads. We will have 4 children (8months, 2.5, 7,8) and a trailer so not looking for anything too rough.

OK, that should make life easier. Doo you live there?

The only place I came across signs warning of mines was on the dirt road crossing the mountain pass between Obrovac (roughly 40 kms east of Zadar) and Lovinac. I wouldn't move off the road there ;-)

Hans

Hi Hans,

I wonder if there are any maps around showing possible mined areas?

Julian,

Don't worry, it's not as bad as it seems. I've never seen any mined areas in Croatia, amd those in neighbouring Bosnia are very well signposted. As already stated, you may come across them to the sides of some of the dirt roads, but they are not on the road itself, and as mentioned, well-signposted.

Wild camping illegal in HR
 

Wild camping is illegal in Croatia and you will be visited by police in the middle of the night and escorted to the nearest campsite. At least around tourist areas and especially during the tourist season.

You've got some mine fields around Zadar and in some areas bordering with Bosnia. In any case, check first with the locals before entering the bushes. English, German, Italian - no problem.

A definite must see are the Plitvice Lakes, near to the border with Bosnia and directly east of Senj on the coast. Absolutely incredible - you will be there all day! It is impossible to describe but absolutely stunning. Basically it is a string of 16 lakes/waterfalls that you can walk around but there are also buses and boats if you need a break. There is a campsite just north of the lakes that also has 'bungalows' if you need a change from a tent.

Dubrovnik was OK but get there early to avoid all the tourists and coach/cruise parties. There is a campsite on Babin Kuk not far from the Old Town and close to the Copacabana beach (!) where there are slides etc. if your kids are into that. If you go to Dubrovnik also go up Mt Srd which overlooks the town. It is possible to drive up there and the road, although small, is pretty good. From the top (destroyed cable car station) there is an amazing view of Dubrovnik and for miles up and down the coast.

From the little 'toe' of Bosnia down to Dubrovnik there is a minor road that runs parallel to the main road. This is much nicer to ride/drive and hardly any traffic. There are mines in the fields around but there are signs eveywhere. We went last year and the road ran through the middle of an open cast mine - a bit dusty but quite fun!

The little fishing village of Mali Ston on the Peljesac Peninsula was good for a quiet day/evening and there are some saltworks in neighbouring Ston. Quite interesting but wouldn't keep you there too long.

Hi Mermaid,

Many thanks for the pointers, I'll add them to the list of places to see - actually they are at the top of the list at the moment - only just starting it ;-)

My wife seems to think that there are quite a few lakes and castles - does that sound right? I really must read up on the history of the region - all I know is that the Romans were there.

Not at all unless you belive what is signed on boards .


If you like ruins then stick to a coast, every bigger place have longtime
history. From Istria all the way to Dubrovnik you will find a lot of attractions.

Ok, then start in Sv.Juraj south of Senj, go inland to Oltari, turn right to
Zavižan, continue to Štirovača, visit mountain pass Veliki Alan, nice view
to see from 1350 meters above see level, turn back to Štirovača and continue
to Dabar and visit tunels in rocks. Finish that gravel route in Oštarije above
Karlobag - that is a route we usualy take for easyoffroad. And it is along your
way.

I am living in the northeast part of a country, nearby town OSIJEK, close
to border with Serbia. If you intend to smuggle around, send PM several days
ahead.

Best regards

Hi Julian,

Didn't see any other lakes but looking at the map there seem to be quite a few dotted around. The biggest one is apparently Lake Vrana on the Dalmatian coast which is also a nature reserve.
There were quite alot of castles/ruins in various stages of disrepair. We didn't really visit many as they tend to be in the cities - apparently the remains in Pula are pretty impressive. As well as Roman stuff there is also quite alot from the Ottoman era as the Balkans were pretty much the 'front line' between east and west for centuries.
If you're happy to just explore for yourselves there were alot of ruins etc. to wander around in - just don't expect any guides/information to be at hand! Very interesting though.