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Not using Torque Wrench: big deal?
Hi all,
So as a few of you know I recently bought a brand new Honda XR250 (made in Brazil). I've done a few things ie change back wheel and change oil. I took it to the garage (Honda authorized) here in Chile and had the mechanic there check my work. I figured he'd use a torque wrench as per the manual but he did not. So I'm wondering should I buy one for touring it just go without them? To be honest, if the other mechs are like the guy in the Honda store where I bought my bike, it seems I'll just have to get used to cutting corners or do it myself. Cheers, RTW |
Once you've torqued a few hundred bolts you kind of get a feel for it...
Until then, use the tool |
Not using Torque Wrench: big deal?
Can you just buy one that will all the bolts and nuts or a whole set? Remember I'm going to be lightweight touring. I figured that I could just pop into a mech and make sure everything was okay but since the Honda mech here in my region of Chile didn't seem to bother I'm kinda curious now...!
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I never carry one, on the odd occasion I have needed to use one such as when doing engine work I have done the work where I can borrow or rent one.
For some fasteners it is better to use some judgement rather than the recommended torque figure which sometimes can be on the high side. For instance the front wheel spindle pinch bolts on BMW's R100GS, tighten them to the recommended torque and they will eventually strip, I have heard the same for other figures on BMWs. |
An uncalibrated slipper wrench is just another extension bar. The numbers do nothing.
Andy |
I would guess that most of the people that say they don't use one have quite a bit of experience in taking bikes to pieces because with that experience comes the ability to judge how tight a bolt should be.
Apart from a few mission critical bolts (big ends, cylinder head etc) getting it tight enough to stay in place without getting it so tight as to damage the threads comes with the ability to feel whats going on. That's not "cutting corners" and I'd much rather use a mechanic with the experience to feel how a bolt is running as he tightens it than someone who just dials up the number and cranks till it clicks. The trouble is that there's many a strip twixt cup and lip. Until you've mangled a few hundred bolts, or had them fall out, knowing how tight a bolt should be is guesswork and the torque wrench is the safer option. I've seen people snap 6mm bolts because they just assumed you do them up as tight as you can. If you've got past that stage the torque wrench may be optional, but if you take one treat it like it's made of glass - they're precision bits of kit and worse than not using one if they're out of calibration. |
The risk is not just snapping bolts but also distorting bearing surfaces and causing leaks
Not worth taking risks in my view |
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NO ... no torque wrench required as part of your traveling tool kit. As mentioned, experienced guys get a "feel" for this. Not that hard. Also, as mentioned above, a torque wrench is really only important for critical internal engine fasteners. Most others can be tightened to a Ball Park range. For 90% of what you will do on the side of the road or in your Hotel forecourt ... hand tools .... used carefully will be fine! :thumbup1: You will not be doing an engine rebuild on your bike. Minor maintenance only. Be especially careful with your Oil Drain Bolt. This is a favorite NOOBS seem to strip on a regular basis :taz:. I'd buy a spare in case. USE a fresh copper washer on every oil change ... or re-anneal old washer. (heat red hot, let cool naturally) Now it's soft and will SEAL in oil ... No Leaks! That oil drain bolt needs to be tight ... but not too tight! Take your time! To help mitigate risk I recommend Loc-Tite thread locker on at least some nuts & bolts, especially small fasteners who's torque you are not sure of. (NOT oil drain bolt) If you've under torqued something ... the Loc-Tite will hold it in place. So NO NEED to put Gorilla torque on it. Buy NON permanent Loc-Tite (Blue). Lots of small screws/bolts/nuts can be loc-tited. (IE: side panel screws, control nuts bolts, chain guard bolts, license plate holder, on and on) More importantly:Learn to tighten in multi-stage sequence. If multiple bolts (like a side case or rear sprocket), do it jumping across in Star formation ... sort of criss cross pattern. The 3rd tightening round is your final torque ... don't over-do it! Keep in mind ... small (8mm) bolts need very little torque. 10mm, slightly more, 12mm a lot more. 14mm a bit more and so on up to 24mm. So, big BOLT goes tighter. Makes perfect sense, right? doh Things that DO need to be TIGHT! Brake Caliper bolts, Foot Peg bolts, Axle nut and Axles, Steering Stem top nut. Most other fasteners do not require to be that tight .. so use care in tightening. Learn to do basic stuff. My guess this will center around changing tubes and oil/filter. You're on a Honeymoon with your Brand New Bike. Not much to be done for first year or two. :Beach: bier |
I agree with Mollydog, except I prefer to drop the hot copper into cold water. It is how I have annealed copper headgaskets since 1961. So far so good :)
take good care to tighten gently, I like to assemble things with grease, when a cover starts squish out the surplus ( nearly all of it) you will feel the bolts get stiffer to turn, generally a flat or two from there is enough. head bolts need to be reasonably close to the setting. Using a torque wrench see how few fingers hold is necessary to get to the right pull. ( make allowance for length of handle and the length of your spanner). |
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I've had bolts strip at well under the specified torque using a good quality torque wrench; it depends on the condition and cleanliness of the bolt and receiving thread. Have a look at the bolt as it comes out to see if it's brought any metal with it. If so, be very careful putting it back. It's not a bad idea to have a little tooth-brush sized wire brush to give bolts a clean up before refitting.
For most stuff I think I know about how tight things need to be. If doing up a series of bolts I try to get in a position where I can achieve a controlled and repeatable pressure by maintaining a similar hold and direction on the spanner/bar. Some small bolts need a little finger on a short spanner, some big stuff needs to "grunt" tight and even bigger is "grunt and fart" tight. The front sprocket on my DRZ is "nearly sh*t yourself" tight. |
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Also, regards inspecting threads on removed bolts: look for "stretched" or warped threads on the bolt. If so, replace the bolt, don't try to put it back in unless it's a roadside, no other option deal. Grease on bolts means you won't realize it's getting tight and may over tighten it ... so grease on bolts can mean a stripped bolt. In aircraft school we were taught to never grease a bolt. Dry and clean or Loc-tite if called for. But grease on mating surfaces (heads) can sometimes be "a good thing". It's sort of old school but is tried and true and works on some assemblies. |
if you're really concerned or uncomfortable about not using a torque wrench, try something like a a digital torque adapter. Small, relatively light, easy to use. Not perfect, but better than not knowing and it allows for even tightening of bolts.
NEW Digital Torque Tester 1 4" 3 8" 1 2" Adapter SET Case Battery Memory 68283 | eBay |
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I find the biggest error is the thinking that tight is right. A drain plug that drips is fixed with a fraction of a turn with a hand tool. A drain bolt ripped out of the engine case by some gorilla with a 12 foot bar takes more kit and time.
Andy |
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