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XRV RD07, my small but annoying issues.
I bought a RD07, 1998 model 2 months before my trip. (because someone stolen my new XRV, not to mention anymore,) now I have been riding it for about 18months.
mileage =??? not accurate. I changed the front brake disc because the previous owners had used the bike a lot. 1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal? 2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check? 3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal? 4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired? I’m now in Columbia, heading to Alaska, then to Australia, east timor, indoesia, south east asia then Singapore. will take another year to get home. any advice for me for the 4 issues? please advice…. goh mia chun |
1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal?
Very well done. It is ok... Where do you measure the voltage? On battery? Should be more than 12 V when engine is off. 2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check? 3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal? No, you have to many luggage ;) RPM and speed looks ok if you use normal, typicall sprockets 4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired? Sometimes it happens, if you use K&N filter or have modificated exhaust you have to add some oil every 500 km. You should write what kind of oil you use. It can also help to solve the problem no.2 |
2L of oil in 5000km is WAY TOO MUCH !!
You must be burning or leaking oil somewhere. Maybe the valves, head gasket or piston rings are too worn. Are you sure it's not leaking anywhere ??? You clutch problem is that it is "Dragging".. It is not disengaging properly. Either the cable does not have enough slack or the actual clutch basket is "notched" or the plates are warped. It needs to be taken apart and checked properly. |
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okay What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615. Also how much oil is in it when this is happening.. Suggestion one is to look at the oil.. If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand? if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here. Quote:
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Good luck and let us know Xander |
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I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear (many people say a clutch is engaged with the lever pulled in, although its the opposite) This would certainly also explain why gear changes are so difficult. Ever tried to go through a gearbox without using the clutch ?? A slipping clutch would mean there is little torque going through the shafts making changing easy and there would huge loss of drive power too. In losening the clutch cable, I think hes got too much play which means the clutch is not fully disengaging when he pulls the lever.. Just a guess at this stage. I don't mean to sound patronising as you obviously know what you're talking about... Feel free to pull me up on this if i've misred something... |
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1)Battery problem
From Sambor: Very well done. It is ok... Where do you measure the voltage? On battery? Should be more than 12 V when engine is off. now i had changed it to a yuasa maintance free battary. its about 11.5V at the battery when it is off. is this normal? From Xander: all the battery specifications u gave me does not meet my test but now the bike is running ok for the past 14 months. the issue is when the battery is going to break down again? it will not give any warning before hand. it will happen on the last straw. 2) Clutch From Tedmagnum: You clutch problem is that it is "Dragging".. It is not disengaging properly. Either the cable does not have enough slack or the actual clutch basket is "notched" or the plates are warped. It needs to be taken apart and checked properly. bike is not crawling in first gear. When i fully engage the clutch and drop to first gear from neutral, the bike starts to move. Suspect: the clutch cable is lengthen thro time... will that be possible? Also when i give a gas and the change of gear have made easier. Hey Xander... I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear (many people say a clutch is engaged with the lever pulled in, although its the opposite) This would certainly also explain why gear changes are so difficult. Ever tried to go through a gearbox without using the clutch ?? A slipping clutch would mean there is little torque going through the shafts making changing easy and there would huge loss of drive power too. In losening the clutch cable, I think hes got too much play which means the clutch is not fully disengaging when he pulls the lever.. Just a guess at this stage. I don't mean to sound patronising as you obviously know what you're talking about... Feel free to pull me up on this if i've misred something... From Xander: What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me. Good question. I couldnt contact my mechnic now. I saw him taking the clutch plates apart and he ask me to buy a can of glue, the kind of glue for sniffing, also the kind of glue for tyre puncture patch. No idea what he use the glue for. What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615. Im using 20-50 semi-synt. Also how much oil is in it when this is happening.. After crusing at 4000rpm for a distance, i stopped and the bike die off when i engage clutch on gear one. The idling became lower and weaker. Then i check: the engine oil is low. Suggestion one is to look at the oil.. If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand? Yes, i have. if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here. Ok, will try it. will let u know hows the situation. Change clutch cable..... tough job for me, never did it or seen how to do it before. Do i need to take out the tank to change the cable? Tedmagnum: You are 100% correct. i was just using "slipped" as a short hand for buggered.. I was just being lazy... sorry for any confusion i may have caused... it does not change what i suggest though... 3) RPM at 3500 with 80km/hr im using front 16 and rear 43 sprockets. after with many advises from you guys, i think its really the weight issue. 4) Engine oil burning issue From Sambor: Sometimes it happens, if you use K&N filter or have modificated exhaust you have to add some oil every 500 km. You should write what kind of oil you use. It can also help to solve the problem no.2 Yes, im using K&N. I only made the angle of the exhaust lower so the aluminium pannier could fix on its top. Im using semi synth, 20-50. currently in columbia where it is abit humid but doesnt make much difference when in colder countries for the engine issue. Is it better to change to original airfilter? From Tedmagnum: 2L of oil in 5000km is WAY TOO MUCH !! You must be burning or leaking oil somewhere. Yes... oil burning or leaking.... but where? On the left side of the engine, i think where the valve is, there is something that we could open with a big allan key. There seems to be dirt collected there. I could see very clearly because oil leaks out and dirt sticks there. Is it related? Maybe the valves, head gasket or piston rings are too worn. Are you sure it's not leaking anywhere ??? How to check the valves, head gasket or piston ring are too worn. Could they be replaced easily? From Xander: Also not a huge deal but i would check you valve clearances to make sure that you are not out.. (it should be done evey 12000 miles any way).. Also see the oil comments above.. Hi-spec stuff cant deal with the AT configuration, and will burn off faster... My last valve clearence was done in Germany, 1 year ago. I wasn´t able to witness the repair. That was at km25000. now my bike is on km60000 and had not done any valve clearance. Im in Columbia now, going to panama next week and heading to america. (hope the swine flu is cleared in mexico) along the way i dont think there is anyone reliable to do my valve clearance. If valve clearance is not done periodic, what will happen? Xander, Tedmagnum and Sambor, thanks for the advise. I am really a mechnic idiot.... but willing to try. |
First thing Singaporedream.
Clutch: When you say "clutch is engaged". Do you mean when the lever is in or out ?? Engaged means you are not holding the lever in and the plates are together and driving the gearbox. You need to check it you can stop the wheel with your foot when the clutch is disengaged (pulling the lever to the bar) Mechanic using glue on your clutch ??? I AM VERY WORRIED !! :thumbdown: Battery: Your battery should have 12.5V when bike is off. If not, the battery is not healthy or it is not being charged by the bike properly. Oil: 20w/50 is SEMI sythetic is fine for the AT as long as it is for motorcycles !! If it is for cars then there may be additives which are bad for motorcycle clutches. If oil is seeping from the LH side round hole then yes, this could explain your problem. It only needs a rubber 0-ring but it might be hard to find the correct size. Make sure it is tight. Valves: How many miles since valves checked ?? You should really check every 12,000 miles but the AT seems to stay in spec for a good while longer. If they are bad, you will lose power, economy and in bad cases, make the top end wear out quicker. |
Hello Sing...
1. No, it is not normal. Check your voltmeter first... Should be not less than 12,6 -12,8 V BTW. You choose very good battery 4. K&N is good for tarmac, but I have seen that many AT consume oil with K&N (especially when this filter was not cleaned proper way). So put normal paper filtr inside and look what will happen... Angle of exhaust doesn't have any influeance. Why you use 20W50? So hot in South America? Valve clarence is not difficult and can be done by every mechanic. BTW it is the time to do it in your AT. Check your sparks and tell us something about their colour. Probably your carburattor also need inspection... And it should be done when you replace K&N for normal filter. greetings Sambor |
I don’t know much about the AT but K&N-filters and high oil-consumption is not unknown.
Basically it might lead to premature wear of piston-rings, carbs and valves/seats. This again leads to high oil-consumption and loss of power. Some more information here: Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better: Nissan Articles: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub |
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Hi Sambor!
[quote=Sambor;240826]Hello Sing... 1. No, it is not normal. Check your voltmeter first... Should be not less than 12,6 -12,8 V BTW. You choose very good battery tks. i dont understand by: check your voltmeter first. u mean check the voltage of the battery at it´s terminal end? i check it at the relay starter point when the engine is off. same? also when i bought the battery the brasilian only fast charge for 3 hrs. 4. K&N is good for tarmac, but I have seen that many AT consume oil with K&N (especially when this filter was not cleaned proper way). So put normal paper filtr inside and look what will happen... Angle of exhaust doesn't have any influeance. Why you use 20W50? So hot in South America? i will try to get original air filter if i can find along the way. i think airfilter contribute a part to the mystery of missing engine oil. 20w50 not to be use in hot weather? hmm... i want to study about that. its cheaper in my case and i think the bike still run. whats ur recommandation for hot weather? Valve clarence is not difficult and can be done by every mechanic. BTW it is the time to do it in your AT. Check your sparks and tell us something about their colour. Probably your carburattor also need inspection... And it should be done when you replace K&N for normal filter. thanks for ur advise Sambor.... i will keep it in good shape! |
hi Alibaba.
will try out the original air filter and let u guys know the results! |
20W50 is the correct oil for most of South America.
When I was there, its all you could usually buy anyway. |
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Did the mechanic use glue instead of gasket cement when he replaced the clutch cover? Oops, you'll have fun removing it!
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If some of these problems are caused by the airfilter the damage will not go away by replacing the original filter. But it will hopefully not get worse. |
hi folks... sounds confident now, but some cases, scarry. will ride slow to texas to do up the bike. anyone know any good bike shop along the way that can do up xrv750? USA does not have this model but i believe the basics to mechnics are the same, and i have the important spares with me.
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Clutch: When you say "clutch is engaged". Do you mean when the lever is in or out ??
Engaged means you are not holding the lever in and the plates are together and driving the gearbox. You need to check it you can stop the wheel with your foot when the clutch is disengaged (pulling the lever to the bar) tedmagnum: i couldn't stop the wheels with my foot or hands. my foot nearly got into the mudguard with the force of the wheel. i put bike to main stand, start engine and ask my wife to pull clutch level in, step to gear 1. i am behind and try to stop the wheel.... negative.. too strong. is there something wrong? |
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With the lever pulled in, you should be able to stop to wheel with your foot or very light braking. Your clutch is not disengaging properly. Either the cable is too slack and not pulling enough on the clutch arm or something more drastic is wrong inside. You need to fix this NOW !! |
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thank you for all the care and concern for this patient. will keep updated for any improvement done to his 11 years old machine. goh |
solved???
finally i managed to made it to Houston, TX. Got to the mechnic at "Houston Bike Exchange' and i must say that Tommy is the best salesman ever lived! Clutch issue: he suggested me to use the fully syntetic engine oil. with out my acknoledgement, he test drove my bike, ride into the workshop and ask his mechnic to drain my old engine oil and start working. he said he is afraid that if he is going to get parts, he couldnt get any so changing the engine oil might help. It has been 40000km since that i have not do any valve clearance. he made the mechnic to do a compression ratio on my bike, results: front 160pounds rear 140pounds where the XRV manual stated: 185. that means that i have to do valve clearance! he tried to show me some wierd stuff in his workshop saying that he do not know how to do valve clearance. results: i ended up paying for US$245.29 for something which i can do myself like changing sparks plug, engine oil and oil filter. then i test ride the bike, with that oil, it became worse! he just try to escape my question, made it complicated for me by using all the technical terms where i do not know. also one of my spark plug was stucked inside because the thread was broken. i wanted him to do the job but he said it should be ok to leave it inside. com'on, sooner or later i would need to change that spark plug! what can i do? is all american workshop like that? i am dissappointed. |
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My friend.. I think you need to find a good honest workshop in the USA. I am sure there are plenty of them. Ask the question here or on Adventure Rider Motorcycle Forum. I am sure you will get help on that site (many Americans on there) With no disrespect, I think the problems on your bike need to be looked at by a competent mechanic with correct tooks and knowledge. Your bike has many problems and I dont think they can safely be fixed using a forum. The threads can be repaired on the spark plug (it needs to be fixed. Maybe it is leaking causing low compression).. Low compression can be many things, but yes..Valves should be checked first. It could be badly worn piston rings or leaking head gasket (which would also explain the burning of oil)... Do you have smoke when you start the bike ???? I really think you should not go any further without finding a good mechanic. You maybe looking at spending $800-$1000 to fix all these problems. :( |
Guys.....
Similar but slightly different....... My 03 Transalp 650 selects all gears every time.......except neutral. It works about 2-3 times out of 10 attempts and for some reason when standing still it will select neutral from 2nd gear better than from 1st gear. It will select neutral every time when the engine is off and ignition lights are on. No other gear selection problems whatsoever and all else seems ok. Any ideas??? Christopher |
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In your case, You could probably solve it with some lever/cable adjustment.... |
Almost certainly it's a clutch adjustment problem. On older bikes it's really common - to the point where I've stopped thinking of it as a problem and just live with it. Different oils can make it worse / better.
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Thanks guys
I have the clutch cable tightened at the lever end pretty much as tight as I can do it by hand, then a little twist (and just a little one!!!) with a tool. That did improve it ever so slightly but not to any great extent though. The oil situation.....now there's a possible idea.......the oil hasn't been changed in about 15 months. There has been no real mileage covered since then, I've only covered about 500 miles. Possible solution???? Christopher |
for my case, the clutch issue: i suspect it might be the clutch cable had 'lengthen' over time. so when i press the clutch cable, the clutch system doesnt engage/disengage fully.
2ndly, the oil that the mechnic/salesman gave me was a US$59.99 fully syntetic oil and it made it worst. i guess the oil makes a difference. since its so expensive, i gonna use it and wait till the next oil change and i will try mineral oil on my honda. 3rd: good news. i went to a friends house in austin by the name of gary, i took out the stucked plug for me. the tread is perfectly all right, its the carbon built on the tread. 4th, i had made some valve clearance with the help of gary (HE IS GREAT!). going to do the compression ratio test tomorrow. regarding that bike shop in houston by the name of: Housten bike Exchange and that Tommy guy, i would use this incident to make myself and you guys a lesson. i dont think i will get the money back. i am not the best 'talker' in town. . will update my bike progress with u guyss. i think i am with the right guy! |
Hi!
If you have covered such a high milage with a faulty air filter, probably you will need some new rings...it is a simple task, you will just have to deglaze the bore and fit some new rings. When you do that , just replace the valve seals and this should solve your burning oil problems. You can use Honda Shadow 750 rings and valve seals, since both models share those engine components ....and Shadow 750 was widely available in USA market... It is : 13011MV1305 for the rings 12208-413-003 for intake valve seals 12209-413-003 for exhaust valve seal World of Powersports w/ MC MART's 2000 Honda Street Bike VT750C SHADOW Parts Finder this is Honda Shadow in States... Motorbike components for Honda XRV-750-W (G) this is Africa Twin in Europe... ...you will notice the same part numbers.. .. good luck.. |
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thanks for that info! its really useful.im using the k&n filter and it might caused some dirt into the engine. i did the valve clearance and the new compression ratio was about 150 pounds front, 160 pounds rear, when engine not so cold. but when i pour abit of engine oil into the spark plug hold, both raised to 210. also the valve become more noisy after the doing the valve clearance. it has loud ticking sound. is that ok? goh |
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157 PSI is the absoute lowest compression per cylinder. It should be more like 200. But you HAVE to be sure that the valve clearance is correct first or you will get a false reading. Measure your valves again. When the engine is COLD !!! |
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today gary checked my clutch disc. the clutch disc thickness is within 3.72 - 3.88mm, which is good. the clutch spring free length is about 40.7mm. which is good also. what would be the contributing factor to my clutch problem? goh |
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...s/100_0798.jpg
Look at this picture.. Can you see the "notches" in the centre hub ?? If yours looks like this then that can make the plates jam up and caus your problem... You can file them down smooth for a temporary repair. Also, check the plates are nice and flat. NO warpage. |
just a washer? maybe
hi Ted and fellow friends: Gary helped me to take out the clutch system and nothing wrong with it. when we were about to put it back, we noticed that there is a missing washer.
picture is on: 023.JPG (image) if u look at the picture it is washer number 6. during installation, we put on the clutch outer, then suppose there should be the washer #6, then clutch center following by the clutch plates and disc. the only washer we had was with the lock nut. we are sure we did not lose any parts including the 'missing' washer inside the clutch basket. see : 024.JPG (image) is that washer important or is there an error in my Shop Manuall? does anyone know the specification of that washer so that if we needed it we could replace it with some similar stuff? maybe this is causing my clutch problem... strange. |
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You can try to increase the bite of the clutch by cleaning the discs with a brush in hot water with soap for cleaning dishes. After that rinse them in water to remove all the soap ...and then sand them softly with 800 sand paper... (just to deglaze, not to remove material)...You should place the sand paper in a flat surface like a glass and then sand the discs in soft circular movements..... do not worry because if they are shot , there is no more harm you can do to them.... |
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new findings! yeh, gary did that for me. we did it on the clutch plates. but what is questionable now is the missing washer... what do u think? |
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good to know about that. mine is a 1998 RD07 model. hmm, if the head gasket for shadow750 could fit my bike? need ur advice! goh |
The washer you talk about is a "Thrust" washer... It is so the centre hub sits correctly on the clutch bearing and correctly spaces out your clutch components..
Although I can not guarantee that it is causing your clutch problems, it certainly won't help with it being missing and without and you will no doubt damage your clutch. From memory of most clutches, it is a fairly thick washer so without it, you clutch has incorrect spacing... I could make sure you replace it immediately.. |
...sorry but that washer either is a mistake in some years manuals or no longer is made....i tried to find it when i fully rebuilt my Africa Twin Engine but Honda do not sell it anymore, or is not included in their parts catalog....if you check Honda Service Manual, not Haynes...you will notice it some years, not all years...and i wonder why since the engine is the same since 1989......
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my clutch do not have the notches u refered with the big picture. i contacted chan, in singapore, he also told me that there is not such washer in the ATs anymore. this is what he email me regarding the missing washer. I believed you saw in the Honda Service manual that there is an extra washer for the clutch housing. It struck me long time ago while I was replacing my AT’s clutch plates too. Initially I thought it may have a missing washer too, but it’s almost impossible as the engine had never been touched before, factory installation won’t have such mistake. Then I noticed the Honda parts catalogue do not have this washer. I checked with Honda parts dealer & confirmed that there is no such washer. Since then, we have replaced countless clutches for the AT, & there’s never this washer around too. I deduced that it’s just an error in the Honda service manual. It’s most likely they reproduced the photos & instructions from the service manual of earlier XL600V Transalp. The Transalp does have this extra washer & it’s listed in the Parts catalogue too. I can justify this as I have both the AT & Transalp 600, have replaced their clutch & found it tally with the parts catalogue. So rest assured there’s nothing missing from your clutch! how i wish that it is this washer that caused the problem. but if the problem comes gradually, then it wouldnt be the washer. it must be something that has worn off. this is what he emailed me regarding the clutch: Hi Goh, Just received your sms that the problem is clutch slip & difficulty in gear changes. I believe it’s your gear shift drum that is worn, maybe the gear shift arm & the forks as well. When these wears off, it can’t shift gears cleanly (shift arm don’t sit firmly in the slots of the shift drum), hence it slipped. So it might be the gear shift mechanism that slipped rather than the clutch. is that possible? |
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...k/s320/008.JPG Hope Too's kidney.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...k/s320/007.JPG The liver. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...8/s320/006.JPG the clothings. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...c/s320/005.JPG Hope Too in sick bay. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...E/s320/004.JPG Making a heart pacer. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...k/s320/003.JPG He is now camera shy. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...w/s320/002.JPG In the surgery room. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...k/s320/001.JPG |
By the look of the carbon build up on that piston.. You were definately burning a lot of oil..... lol
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hi ted: yeh... so what can i do for that piston? do i have to sand it away? also what do u think contribute to the clutch issue? i have placed order from singapore for the gasket sets, valve stem and seals set, piston ring sets and clutch plate+disc set. gonna change them when they are here. |
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I don't know about the clutch... I can't diagnose it on a forum :( |
...do not forget the circlips...you will have to use new ones.....
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Hi Ted: the front cylinder head is much cleaner than the rear. is this common? i had cleaned the carbon on the piston head, cylinder head. once i recived the mail from singapore, gary and i will bring the cylinders to a shop in austin and they will rebore the cylinder, fix and aline the valves stem, seals and guides. i hope the piston ring set comes with the piston ring clip. this is what i ordered: 1) 22201-MJ1-761 Clutch friction disc = 7 pc 2) 22321-MV1-000 Clutch plate = 6 pc 3) 11394-MV1-850 Clutch cover gasket = 1 pc 4) 13012-MV1-305 Piston Ring set 0.25 = 2 set 5) 12251-MV1-004 Cylinder head gasket = 2 pc 6) 14711-MV1-000 Inlet valve = 4 pc 7) 14721-MR1-000 Exhaust valve = 2 pc 8) 12231-MF5-305 Inlet valve guide = 4 pc 9) 12241-MF5-315 Exhaust valve guide = 2 pc 10) 12208-413-003 Inlet valve seal = 4 pc 11) 12209-413-003 Exhaust valve seal = 2 pc 12) 11395-MV1-850 Magneto cover gasket = 1 pc as for the clutch, i would follow Chan's advice: Normally the friction plates wears off faster & it’s alrite just to replace these. However there is no measurement listed for wear limits of metal plates, & Honda recommends replacement of clutch disc as a set, so I would recommend so, since they don’t cost that much anyway. Honda service manual do not have service limit specified for the clutch centre & pressure plate. They just remarked to” check for excessive wear”. If these needs replacement, I can look for it from other sources. Otherwise it got to be ordered & delivery time will depends on air freight (extra cost) or standard sea freight (too long). |
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The carbon on the pistons is built up from the burning of oil. The rear cylinder must of been leaking oil quite badly.. The circlips are what holds the pin on the piston. The should be replaced everytime but its not the end of the world if you dont (but only if they are not defromed from removing them). They WILL NOT come with the piston rings. They have to be ordered seperately. |
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...w/s400/004.JPGcleaning the gasket... getting ready for the parts.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...o/s400/002.JPGi noticed that there's some scratches here. is it ok? http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...M/s400/001.JPGwhat about this? i think it's normal. |
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The other marks are normal on a high mileage clutch.. As long as they are smooth ?? |
Those scratches don't look like they were done while the bike is running. They are in the wrong direction to start with...
The other marks are normal on a high mileage clutch.. As long as they are smooth ?? Hi Ted! the second picture with the scratches looks fresh but im sure that when gary and i took out the clutch, we didnt 'scratch' it. what do u think might have cause this scratch marks? the 3rd picture: the marks are smooth...so thats a good sign? |
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I wouldnt worry about them. They look like they are scratched from someone in the past installing or rolling around on a garage floor etc.. They won't do any harm.. |
hi ted and all, the piston rings, valve stems+seals+guides, gaskets and clutch plates+disc has arrived. i had sent the valve set and the cylinder head to a workshop for alignment and installation.
will update on the good news! |
remove and replace valve guides
hone guides to size check new valves for run-out machine valve seats using spec's from repair manual check spring heights assemble with new valves and seals. cost: US$250-350 duration:3 days+ meanwhile, gary help me to hone the cylinder to fit the size of the new 0.25 piston ring that we ordered. after a few minute of work, we find that the 0.25 ring is too tight for the current cylinder. a few method we could get the piston ring fixed: 1) continue to hone the cylinder and take out more materials to fit the 0.25 rings and file the end of the rings to specification. 2) order a set of OEM (original) rings from singapore again. (got to wait) 3) purchase a set of OEM rings here in usa but the problem is: can u advise me if the shadow 750 piston ring fits into my bike? my VIN number is JH2RD07A9WM302728. a kind soul from HUBB left a message for me: Hi! If you have covered such a high milage with a faulty air filter, probably you will need some new rings...it is a simple task, you will just have to deglaze the bore and fit some new rings. When you do that , just replace the valve seals and this should solve your burning oil problems. You can use Honda Shadow 750 rings and valve seals, since both models share those engine components ....and Shadow 750 was widely available in USA market... It is : 13011MV1305 for the rings 12208-413-003 for intake valve seals 12209-413-003 for exhaust valve seal World of Powersports w/ MC MART's 2000 Honda Street Bike VT750C SHADOW Parts Finder this is Honda Shadow in States... Motorbike components for Honda XRV-750-W (G) this is Africa Twin in Europe... what is your advice folks? goh |
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If the Honda Shadow shares the same cylinder size and piston, the original rings from that will work although I have no experience of this bike. I say again, do not hone down and cut rings to fit the cylinder.. This is not good engineering. David Silver Spares - PARTS This guy does Honda parts. Maybe cheaper and faster to the USA than Singapore. ???? |
thanks ted for that warning, we almost wanted to hone the whole cylinder down.
the issue is how do can we get to know if shadow 750 share the same piston ring with xrv750? pls advise. goh |
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for the shadow that we going to order is:13011MBA305 for africa twin recommanded by prompp :13011MV1305 i think i gonna order it. US$43...get it by tomorrow 11am. gosh, US43! |
do u know what the F u are talking about?
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MR PROMPP, I HOPE U KNOW WHAT U ARE TALKING ABOUT. end up, we need to file the oversized piston ring abit on one end but it fits perfectly. then, when installing the whole cylinder, the cam chain sprocket that needed to be aligned could not be. we tried it many many times but it is not aligned so we suspected it may be the chain elongation over time that it is not aligned. anyway we have the same 'not aligned' for the front and rear cylinder. later gota test ride the bike. my fingernails are very dirty now.. keep u guys update. |
bike is done. had a hard 24miles hard run-in/break in.
will change engine oil and oil filter at mile 600. rushing to rhode island from austin. got to b there at 25th july 09. will update on what had we done. thanks everyone! |
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...M/s320/063.JPG
i opened up the rear cylinder today, found that the piston is cracked, cylinder head is damaged. new valves were broken. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...w/s320/062.JPG i got the bike running,`after 130miles, it stopped. went to dave's house, i open the rear cylinder it became like that. im lost now... kind soul pls help |
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I think the timing was messed up on the rear cylinder. It looks like the valve has been smashing into the piston. You can not repair the piston or the cylinder head... Im sorry, but you need to buy a new piston, find a second hand cylinder head (Ebay), and replace the valve (and valve seal).. All the other valves need to be checked and measured... You need the correct manual for the bike... This guy who put the engine back together is obviously not a proper mechanic ! It's not difficult to time up a V-twin ! Especially in the USA where twins are in every bloody cruiser going. I just read below... You said you could not get the cam chain aligned... You should not of carried on if it wasnt right ! :nono: Get comfortable.. You are not going anywhere for a while ! |
yes ted, this is really bad. i got to see if the cylinder wall are badly damaged and also if any piece of metel fell into the engine.
this is the rear cylinder. i cant imagine about the front cylinder. need to check that also! i just couldnt get the timing right. i turn it to the TDC and try to align it but could not. by moving one sprocket space would be too much, and move one sprocket space back would be too little. i guess this time i have to sent it to someone and do it. goh. |
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Man, this does not look good.
Getting parts in the USA will now be a problem, and take a lot of time. Why dont you send the bike as it is down to Australia (as this is your next country on your tour) and get it fixed there, where they have that model and its spares available? I dont have much faith in the American mechanics. I also got screwed for $350 by a BMW dealer (Miami). Send my bike in just to check and adjust the valves, as the bike was idling a bit rough and uneven. When I got it back the bike could not even idle anymore! Had to fix it myself. Had much better service in Colombia (Medellin). This does not mean that they all are bad, but it sure is expensive if you dont get the right one. johan |
Ted and JC
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changing a oring seal at the alternater needs just an alan key to open it, take out the old oring, put the new oring and put the cover back by using an alan key would charge $1+$35. $1 is for the oring and $35 for the labour. he sold me that engine oil which cost $59.90 a gallon and said that it is good for my clutch problem. the next guy would be the guy that seat my valve. he charged $90 per hr, which he took 3.6hrs for the job. i paid without a discount and went back... i did not say it was all his fault but it was a total of US$600 for the first round of lesson learned. i dont think this is what america is made of. there is really really alot of helpful people around and we really appricate! goh |
Just been reading your blog about this and we are shocked for you Goh and Samantha! :(
I reckon geting a new s/h engine would be the safest way to go, sounds it's not worth ordering new parts for additional delays and unknown results with the repairs. Europe has loads of crashed bikes markets, including ATs, maybe get a good working engine off from Europe? Good thing to it is that USA doesn't have high importation taxes unlike the rest of the world that just rip you off with their imporation VAT/TAX. Usually it's around 10% or less of the price you bough it outside USA (you may "fake" the bill smaller too, but do it safely), depending on the state. Maybe someone in Europe can find you a good working Affy Twin engine and post it to USA? Nobody ever looks engine number on the border crossings. The only place I've had it looked (and w/o any meaning, since it's nowhere written in my bike's tech-passport) was in Syria after years of travelling in dozens of countries, so I guess you'll be fine with engine having different number for a start(?) and maybe change the number to a new one later in the process (in Carnet and bike's technical passport, if you have it there). You'll just bolt on the new engine and at least you'll get somewhere rather than repairing and waiting with oily hands and being frustruated!? Just a thought. Fingres crossed for you guys, Margus & Kariina (the Estonians you met in Argentina) |
Oh man, that really sucks... must feel terrible after all the effort you´ve put in, but I´m afraid you´ll need a new major overhaul, and could be worth checking out, if you can get a replacement-engine cheaper.
Here´s hoping you are able to get it back running again, looks like you´re having a great trip, except for this of course! |
hi all,
actually i had forgetten about the downturn of economy in usa where businessowner will try their best to earn as much money and cash from customer where i had been one of their easy customer. i became dissapointed. there are too many fineprints in USA. even in subway sandwich restruant, where there is a $3 breakfast combo which inculde a 6inch sandwich, coffee, yogurt/fruit. but when i went to the counter and told that guy that i wanted the $3 breakfast combo, he would ask me if i want a 6inch or 12inch bread. i ordered 6inch bread. the second day that guy ask me the same question again and i ordered the 12inch bread. ended up the bill was $9. you could say that it is my fault by not asking if there would be extra charge for 12inch bread but all they could do is to give me what ever is included in the $3 breakfast combo. by asking if i want a 6 or 12 inch bread and charged extra is very misleading. the second incident was i wanted to buy a tree measuring equipment from a trade show in RI, i went to the kiosk and the salesman quoted me $400. then the company had some luckydraw and i got a 50% discount voucher. i asked the boss how much was that equipment, where he knew i had the 50% voucher, he quoted me $800 before discount. i am just dissappointed with this 2 incident. not to mention that Houston Motorcycle Exchange and that guy that charged me $95/hr for the valve seat job that screwed up everything. but there are still many many many nice people in USA that i had met other than these clever businessman. i am just not careful and trust people too easily. goh |
Bloody hell, what a situation to be in… having traveled on my old AT I know how attached you can become…
Looking at the problems, a replacement engine would be the way to go, but of course you never know their condition… you might find an enthusiast breaking one, so look on ebay.co.uk and the xrv website.. What bad luck, I’m surprised you didn’t hear anything as your valves destroyed themselves on the piston crown.. thinking out aloud it couldn’t be the cam timing – would the bike run with it out so much ? if it’s the valves, adjusted hot or cold they would only contact if you’re flat out say 7000+ rpm … so are the replacement pistons too long in the body ? might explain it or the valves the wrong length … no mention of different con-rods and again if the crank and big ends are shot still wouldn’t explain the damage. … broken ring… naa Good luck mate, take some time off from the bike and go back to it with a fresh head…. looking again at the enlarged pix, the bloody valve is broken.... OK forget the rest of this message...... |
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thanks for the advice. what i noticed when i took out one by one. 1) the rear cylinder head cover: i saw the intake valve cap spring jumped off. so i thought by putting the intake valve cap back onto the spring will do the trick. BUT 2) when i took out the cylinder head, the piston is jammed onto the cylinder wall. one of the valve was broken away from the stem. i saw crack on the piston. the new piston ring came off from the side causing the jam. then the piston caliper was broken away from the piston. i couldnt find any piece of the broken metal from the piston. it's supposed to be a huge junk of metal. it could be inside the crank case. then i noticed that when i turn the flywheel, there are some obstruction. the metal could have went into the case. the rod is bend. shit... remedy: easy! i found another engine in germany. a used one. i trust that owner of the engine. i really hope it is just a plug and play senerio. but the engine from germany is a RD07 model where mine is a RD07A. he told me that the alternator is different. how it happened? the piston and cylinder: i took the bike to austin to seek help from a friend. he is quite an expert in building up bike and has good knowledge on bikes. i had compression ratio issues and engine is burning too much engine oil. so we took out the piston ring and it is out of service spec. we ordered a 0.25 upsize ring. when the ring arrived, it is too big for the cylinder. we did not want to bore the cylinder as the cylinder wall is not damaged. instead, we hone abit of the wall. since the 0.25 ring is slightly oversized, we decided to file/buff of abit of the piston ring on one end of it. we did only on the top and second ring. the rest of the lower rings are also abit big but we did not do any removing of materials. when we slide in the cylinder down into the piston with the rings, i had to squeeze in the piston ring one by one to the cylinder. i dont know if it is too tight for the cylinder. my question: was the piston ring too tight for the cylinder? we measured it to specification. do we need to remove some materials off the lower rings also? but there isnt any specifications in the manual for the lower rings. only the top and second. we did not change the piston holder clip. this small little clip seems ok, undamaged. the manual recommanded always replace the small clip when we took out the piston. ??? the valves: we took the new valve stem,seat and seal to a proper machining shop. he 'cut' the cylinder to fit the new valve. paid him quite a good $ for the job. the new valve seems to fit well. i dont know what kind of specification is needed for this job. i took the manual to the workshop and the mechnic only took down some degree of angle stated in the book for cutting. when we fixed everything in and the last thing is to do the valve clearance, there isn't any allowance to do the valve clearance. it happen on the rear cylinder. suspected that the lenght of the valve would be standard and the workshop might had took out much materials from the cylinder head, causing a overlength of the valve, we took out some materials off the top of the valve to meet the spec of the valve clearance. the timing chain: we turn the flywheel to front cylinder, that will be the TDC. then there is a marking on the timing chain sprocket that we have to align parallel with the cylinder head. we did it. then we turn the flywheel to rear cylinder, that will be the TDC for the rear, again we try to align the timing chain sprocket. but both front and rear timing chain sprockets could not be aligned. we move the sprocket one tooth to the front, it would be too much, move one tooth to the back, would be too little. meanwhile the flywheel is still in the proper position. so we decided to make the best alignment by giving both cylinder abit off to the intake side. that is the best we could do. there isn't any 'half tooth' spacing or movement for the sprocket to get the best alignment. we also suspect that there is a elongation of chain due to the age of the bike, that is why we couldnt align it back. this 3 elements (the piston rings, the new valve seating, the timing sprocket) would contribute to the failure of the engine. what do u think? goh |
What the hell happened !!!!
Firstly I DO think your best bet is to start with another engine…but maybe take you time and look for the correct engine otherwise you’ll add to your misery….
OK so know you know the hard way….. Your old engine is f*****ed its impossible to hone an engine to take a oversized piston ring, it needs to be machined and all over-sizing needs to be done as a kit, eg cylinder, piston and ring.. the cam / timing chain is imperative its correct… Did you compare the rear head to the front, establishing too much was removed ? how did you decide how much to take off the end of the valve ? To build a reliable engine, you just can not machine parts to fit… any of the factors you state would have a fatal effect on your engine … including stretched timing chain, worn timing chain tensioners… in my humble opinion a rebuild, should have been a re-bore, new pistons, rings, chain and tensioners, maybe crank and big end bearings… then ask the question does the head also need doing, do the valves sit properly is the cam worn …etc If not then STOP and work backwards, something is very wrong, Conclusion, wrong timing, wrong chain adjustment, valves and valve adjustment @ 4000 rpm beat the hell out of the valve, valve breaks and drops into the engine destroying it… Expensive lesson, but the new engine, you’ll regularly maintain and look after – won’t you ? This is all basic automotive engineering, I’m surprised a local bike shop couldn’t help an Overland Traveler out … |
I had a similar experience once back in the past when i fitted filled down over sized rings on my Suzuki GS425. The result was bad, they never seated in properly and the bike used more oil than petrol, beacause when you squeese the rings to fit you distort the perfect round shape into an oval shape. So had to get the originals at the end anyway, so that was a bad idea from the start.
Hope that 'new' second hand motor is on its way. By the time you get your bike going it will be winter up in the USA. |
hi JC and Goodwoodwierdo:
im still waiting for the engine to arrive. it should come on 16aug09, sunday and monday i could clear the custom and bring the bike and the new used engine to the workshop named: Moto Guzzi and Hyosung motorcycles of Houston Sales and Service - Independent BMW Repair/Service motorcycles, by MPH Cycles, Inc. All years, all models in Houston, Katy, Cinco Ranch areas, Texas i hope mphcycles could help me. also, i would be using the old clutch cover and alternator gasket which i installed few weeks ago. keep u guys updated on the process. goh |
Goodwoodweirdo is dead right !!!!!!!!
You did too much "guess work" on your engine and used crazy parts and then adapted them yourself.. For a start, you used the wrong size piston ring. Going oversize when you didnt need. You cant just file down oversize rings and "make" them fit.. :eek3: The valve job seemed like a nightmare from the start... It just doesnt work that way. Man, I told you at the start of this thread it wasnt the right way to go. It was always going to be a dissaster. This whole thing was a 4 hour simple job for a GOOD mechanic and workshop. Instead it has turned into a nightmare. . It is sad that a lot of bad yank butchers got their hands on your engine and more importantly your money. I dont mean to say the Americans arn't good mechanics.. There are some fantastic mecahnics and technicians in the US, some of the best in the world, but sadly you ended up with every redneck idiot "have a go" guy !! Very bad luck !! My friend, Im sorry for your problems... I really feel for you. I dont mean to sounds like an asshole but you ignored most of the good advice on this thread ! Now, you have a new engine on the way ! Take GOOD CARE of this one... Check valve clearances, make sure timing is good, make sure everything is nice and tight.. change the oil and make sure everthing is good BEFORE YOU FIT AND RUN IT ! |
It will be interesting to know how much all this set you back in $. Please share that with us when you're up and running again.
My biggest single setback was a new front rim that I had to buy in Alaska. It just cracked. Cost me about $1200 and I thought that was bad. Shortned our trip by two to three weeks because of it. I guess you wont make it to Canada or even Alaska? We were up there in September, but that was pushing it a bit, as the Tempratures were between -2 and 5 (night - day) up in the Yukon. So be prepared if you do plan to go up there. johan |
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the used engine from germany seems to work for today, riding from the workshop back. tomorrow gonna ride somemore to see if theres any problem. tedmag is right. just to looked for the right person to fix my bike. who is the right one? mike from mphcycles in houston. he is the owner and he himself came down to see the bike and did the job for me, free! mph does bmw cars and bikes, mercedes benz and moto guzzi bike. mike is the fastest mechnic that i have ever met. fast and accurate. he certainly know what he is doing. we were impressed not because he did it for free, for helping us out but because of his skills and the kind of personal touch, which changed my view of usa where we had so many points substracted from the 'overall country experience score' from the negative things and people we met. i pretty tired these 2 days doing the bike but ended up with a running bike, yehhh! now im still having dirty fingernails and gonna crawl to bed after this message. gonna tell u folks actually what happen these few weeks... meet me in wonderland later... JC: we would be in alaska around early sept.... wish i could grow more fur on my body for that tempreture. always like the hot and sunny weather in singapore. goh |
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...k/s320/010.JPG This is RD07A model.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_wcWu8PEW9u...A/s320/011.JPGThis is RD07 model. see the difference? i also used the pick-up sensor from RD07A. |
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:thumbup1: :thumbup1: :thumbup1: About time to have a running bike again! AK is too often rainy and cold, but still nice in overall picture (at least it left us that impression when we've there about a month ago). AK I probably like the most in the US. September should be still ridable up north, when it gets too cold, stop and make a warm tea/coffee aside the dirt road, beware the bears though :cool4:. Safe travels and hope to see you guys again, Margus |
Great to hear you got it back on the road again.
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sorry folks, we had side tracked too far from the very first post. so how i solve all these problems?
I bought a RD07, 1998 model 2 months before my trip. (because someone stolen my new XRV, not to mention anymore,) now I have been riding it for about 18months. mileage =??? not accurate. I changed the front brake disc because the previous owners had used the bike a lot. 1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal? [COLOR="rgb(255, 0, 255)"]still corroding now. i had ignored this matter for quite some time as im spending time on the engine[/COLOR] 2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check? i took out the clutch and checked. the clutch disc (the one with edges) is within specification limits but the clutch friction plates (the smooth surfaced) do not have any specification on the manual. so i changed the whole set and it is working properly again. im surprised that it wear off so fast, only 67000km. 3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal? with the RD07 engine installed, it is the same, even without luggage. 4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired? my solution to the above problem had solved: changed the whole engine. I’m now in Columbia, heading to Alaska, then to Australia, east timor, indoesia, south east asia then Singapore. will take another year to get home. any advice for me for the 4 issues. |
Great news to hear you're back on the road, look after your new motor....
Be safe and enjoy the rest of your fantastic adventure... Big congratulations.. Matt RD04 |
thanks guys. with the 'new' engine from germany, it is still burning engine oil. SHIT! back to the same problem! what is happening? is my K&N something wrong?!
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Oh god !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How much oil ?? |
What oil are you using ? how much are you using and can you do a compression test ?
Otherwize leave it and enjoy it..... |
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im using shell roterant 15w-40. cheap oil. US$11 per gallon. for the past 1000km, i had topped up about 500ml of engine oil. now im in canada and cannot find similar oil so i just bought a 10w-40 mineral oil to top up./ so if the compression test fails, that means i have to do something to my valves or piston rings, AGAIN?! what might have caused that? it is HAPPENING AGAIN!!!!!! im using the K&N filter. could it be the airbox is not properly sealed so dust went into the carbs? could it be the scottoiler? it had a vaccum line: the scottoiler is not working well now and the vaccum line sucks dirty things to the engine? could it be a lousy K&N filter? what could it be? helppppppppp its a nightmare! |
i just saw a overflow pipe is broken. this overflow pipe is the one that is sealed. when the bike is topple over, it will sometimes filled with engine oil and we have to clear it. this overflow pipe is connected to the airbox. it is broken due to the fiction it has with the chain. it is placed too near to the chain.
could this broken pipe be involved in the burning of engine oil? please advise! goh |
Compare like with like, now you've done a few kms its time for its first oil change. Drain when engine is warm - run for 5 minutes... (don’t go crazy and drain after a 500 km ride) Fit a new Honda Filter and fill with a good semi synthetic oil – semi is important, its not a new race engine so no need for fully synthetic. I use a 10/40 ..
Check oil when warm, with the bike upright.. so you’ll need someone to hold it for you…. Document this including km’s so you know for when you need to do a refill. Your K&N will have little impact on the condition of the engine at this moment. However make sure its well oiled and make sure air only accesses the engine from the air box, so no loose clips and pipes. The overflow pipe you talk about isn’t an issue… Remember the worse the conditions you ride, eg sand the more regular maintenance you need. I also oiled my chain every second refill of the tank and kept an eye on my chain slack. Good luck |
sorry for your problems
Any news?
I have the same problem with oil comsumtion. Wish you good luck. Mircea |
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Excessive oil consumption is almost always: Valves stem seals, worn piston rings or bore or you have an oil leak or weep at a seal or gasket. |
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with this 'new' engine from germany, it stills burn engine oil!!! every 5000km we have to top up 2liters. what is happening??? then it is having hipcups too. when i close the throtter after riding to a stop, i put my feet down, the idling has hipcup. sometimes the hipcups is so great that it cut off my engine. the worst thing is when i bring the bike to any mechnic, i start the bike and it idle, nothing happens. its only after riding then come to a stop, the hipcup happens. anyone can advise?? |
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The "hickups" could be related to the oil comsumption. I expect it's too late for a refund on the engine !! 2 Litres in 5000 is incredibly high. As long as there isnt a pool of oil under the bike, then this engine needs stripping down and the piston rings checked and also the valve seals.. Could also be the cylunder head gasket. Check the colour of the coolant in the radiator ! Is it white and frothy or normal ?? If it's contaminated with oil, then most likely the cylinder head gasket.. Sorry mate, looks like this engine is worse than the last one :( |
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thanks for the advise all these while. the hipcups happened regardless of the engine oil level. it sounded something had skipped when it is idling. there isn't any leakage of oil from any gasket or nuts. i think we just have to keep topping up oil till we get home, then i can tear it apart and look for the proper doctor. there is no doctor around here. everyone (north america and australia, not to mention east timor and indonesia) is just guessing... so i will bear with it. what about the hipcup? anyone has this experience? |
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Sounds like an airleak.. Are the carbs attached properly ? Also maybe some of the pipes for the airbox and otheres breathers might be lose or put together incorrectly. As it is a new engine, the guy who installed it might have had to guess where certain pipes went. Is the air filter nice and clean ???? If the bike runs nicely at speed, then unlikely to be the spark plugs/ignition. Perhaps there is a carb issue which is another kettle of fish. Try increasing the idle a little. |
tedmag:
i will try today. BTW, which country are u at now? Quote:
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i can only access to the rear cyclinder 2 spark plug. i changed them myself. the old spark plug had some white powder on it. any clue? also the choke plunger: it had been cut by the chain while i place it very near to it causing leakage. i tried to shorten it and seal it. does the length of this tube make any contribution? goh |
The speedo cable broke 5 months ago when we were in Canada. As there wasnt any XRV in Canada, the bike shop used a Honda 1984 Goldwing cable for my bike and it worked till last week, the metal cable inside broke.
does anyone knows what kind of cable is it compatiable to? i am in australia now. |
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