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Necessary upgrades/modifications for KLR 650
Hi.
I am planning to buy a used or new klr 650 in santiago within the next days. I am planing to go to Bolivia, Peru, Columbia and Equador. Are there any modifications i should do bevor i leave Chile. I heared that the rear spring is a bit weake. I am 2m long and have 100kg ;-) THX FOR YOUR HELP and good ride :mchappy: |
If the New Edition model (available as some 2014 and all 2015 US-marketed KLRs), stiffer suspension (fore and aft) is standard. Otherwise, considerable aftermarket choices exist to upgrade all earlier models.
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upgrades for KLR650
We just purchased a pair (2) new 2015 KLR650 from a reputable dealer in Arizona
Our set up mechanic, who lowered both bikes an inch and 3/4 & provided excellent set up, advised us to change the front sprocket and chain from the original 15 T to 16 T for our mostly highway driving. We are off road only 10 - 20 % and will soon be riding most the Pan Americana or side roads with little off road. As we travel with full kit - panniers, tail and tank bags the slight height adjustment makes life easier for Elisa and I, especially when stationary. Comments from others have all been positive and some even suggest also changing the rear sprocket. During the first 600 miles, we have both noticed higher rpms and more vibration than our G650GS BMWs. Not being qualified to know, I guess the 16 T front sprocket will pull lower revs for the KLR650s at top end without to much loss at low end. And will reduce vibration at the top of each change. Anyone riding a KLR 650 with 16 T or knowledge of same please advise. thanks xfiltrate Eat , Drink and ride every continent at least twice. |
Changing to 16 teeth makes little difference on the vibration, lowers rpm's about 500 at high speeds, and loses noticeable low-end. This might bother you or not, depending on habit, preference, and where in the world you're riding. At altitude on steep terrain I didn't care for the change, and actually preferred 14 teeth up front.
People object strenuously to the original seat. Objections mount rapidly if you're planning long riding days. Think about adding some sheepskin, an Airhawk, a layer of memory foam, or whatever else you can think of. Any of the KLR forums will describe dozens of more-or-less essential modifications. The carb t-vent is easy and in my experience essential. Spare clutch cables are going to be necessary sooner or later. Better pegs might save you a broken leg if you're ever standing on pegs in the mud or wet. The headlight fuse on older models was critically efficient, but I don't know whether this still applies post 2008. Etc. etc. etc. YMMV. Hope that's helpful. Mark |
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Earlier generation KLR's need more: DooHickey, suspension, seat, T vent and more. Newer generation (after 2008) KLR have slightly better suspension, brakes and seat but still need a few things. If you can figure out how to register a USA based KLR and buy from a traveler ... you probably can save $2000 to $3000 USD on the cost over a new KLR. I know new bikes are expensive in Chile. Many travelers are on a "time limit" and must sell their bike quickly. For this reason, you may find a good deal on a nicely set up KLR that needs very little work to be "road ready". Good hunting! bier |
camillusde
On my 2012 KLR I've never had a problem with the standard sprockets. As long as you're not intending to exceed 130 km on the tarmac, you should have no worries with them. Mods I added :decent bash plate, crashbars,centre stand,Airhawk seat, off-road pegs, tank bag , panier racks, Ventura rack.
Buying seconhand you should find some of these already on the bike...Using Continental rubber (Twinduro) very satisfied with them both on and off road. Good riding amigo ! |
Do the doohickey, it may or may not fail but if it does you're up a creek. Change the carb needle for a KLX one (and main jet). Not a necessity but for very little cash cost and effort it takes it makes the bike run so much smoother. Suspension upgrade is on my list but costs a bit. Also, take those giant fairings/sails off the fuel tank and you'll be more planted at higher speeds. Dropping the front fender also helps a lot but you'll need a front fork brace to do this.
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