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Some KLE 500 questions from new owner
Hi all J
Well, I recently picked up a 2005 KLE 500 with 2,600km on the clock. What a great bike! I agree that they are very underrated. I have a couple of questions I’m hoping to get some help with: How do you adjust the height of the foot brake pedal? It is just a bit too high but I can’t see any kind of adjustment. Has anyone ever opened up the standard muffler and derestricted it. I don’t need to replace the whole system as the New Zealand market bikes don’t have catalytic converters. It looks like the back cap just has a few small welds holding it on and could easily be riveted back on. Airhorns, has anyone fitted them? Where did you mount the horns and compressor?? Appreciate any help or suggestions with these questions. Cheers Tracy |
Hi congrats on the new bike
In answer to your first question if you look between the exhaust and frame roughly level with the brake pedal you should see a rod on the inside of the frame which connects the pedal to the master cylinder (pumping the pedal makes it easier to spot) on the pedal end there is a thread and 2 nuts adjusting the position of these will raise or lower the pedal. Also removing the pillion peg mount will make it more visible and give you more room when adjusting it Sorry haven't tried deristricting the exhaust or fitting an air horn so can't help with those |
Hi Tracey,
congrats on your bike. I do agree, this bike is vastly underrated. However, nothing is that good that it cannot be improved. The typical weak points of the KLE would be the seat (what have the japanese engineers thought when they designed this one?), whether you are male or female doesn't matter, it is just s..t. Secondly, the front fork springs are too soft and the front brake hose line should be replaced towards a braided steel one. The gain in brake power is enormous. I used an Aussie made braided hose, while the progressive springs are from German manufacturer Wilbers Racing. My mechanic here in Western Australia was able to grind off the inner of those two visible tubes on the outside of the muffler, and drilled than through the guts using a big drill. The sound has improved, without being antisocial, but the gain in horsepower is only slightly. Feels a bit better in medium rpms. And at least people are now aware that a motorcycle is approaching, and not an electrical scooter. I use Michelin Sirac for mainly on road use. They suit the KLE very well. Have always a safe ride, cheers Michael, |
Thanks guys :)
Michael, what brake line did you use? was it specifically for the KLE or was it from another model? Yes I'll soon be modifying the seat! filling in the dip and widening it a fair bit. Also, do you have the details for which front springs to use? I have heard others mention adding about 10psi air to the front forks... comments?? Interestingly I rang Kwakasaki here and the guy (who is a biker and seemed to have a clue) said the ones here don't have any CATs at all and to be honest the exhaust does have a reasonable sound to it, certainly not hair-dryer like as my F650 sounded :scooter: cheers Tracy |
Hi Tracey,
braided brake lines are from: HEL Brake Lines - Stainless Steel Motorcycle Performance Brake Line And Brake Hose Kits they got the ones for your KLE in stock, front and rear. I only bought the front one. Progressive fork springs are from Wilbers Racing Germany, bought through the German ebay: Progressive Gabelfedern Kawasaki KLE500 KLE 500 bei eBay.de: Markenspezifische Teile (endet 04.02.10 15:59:53 MEZ) The are able to answer you in english, but you have to add 40 Euros for fright and postage to Australia, which comes to a total of 113 Euros, or around A$180. Adding air makes your front end stiffer, but a the same time you are losing sensitivity while cornering on rougher tarmac or over small humps or so. I prefer the safest ride, so progressive fork springs were the onliest option for me. Any more questions, don't hesitate to ask, cheers Michael |
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As I am tall my right foot is below the brake pedal when riding, although I try riding with it next to the pedal. I tried making the adjustment mentioned by ShaunJ but could not get enough adjustment, so I took the pedal off the shaft and turned it one tooth. However, my foot is still very uncomfortable, and at the moment the pedal is very near to the foot peg when depressed. I am concerend that, in an emergency when I need to stand on the brake, the braking will be compromised due to the foot peg preventing the brake pedal from travelling as far as it needs to go. As this is my first bike, I would like to hear from more experienced riders whether it is absolutely necessary for one to ride with one's foot on top of the brake pedal. With an emergency braking situation in a car, one has to move one's right foot from the accelerator to the brake pedal. Would it not be just as safe on a bike to do a similar thing? |
When i'm riding sitting down my foot always sits to the side of the pedal when i ride standing up my boot sits level with the pedal.
In most emergency situations i find the front brake is usually the first thing i go for or taking evasive |
Thanks ShaunJ for your response.
I was just taught during rider training that in emergency braking situations one should use front and rear brakes. Hence my question. |
Hi
I am 5'10" and the seating position is a bit tight as I believe the footpeg to seat height is not sufficient even for me, so if you are taller it would not be that comfy. Get the seat redone with higher foam (best option), or buy an airhawk - it helps. All you need is another inch to make a significant difference. cya |
I'm 6'2" and I am taking the bike back in to the upholsterer for some finetuning but it is significantly better than the stock one.
Picasa Web Albums - tracyprier I think for me the stock seat has two main failings: too low and the curvey bit at the front forces you to sit too far forward. Seeing as they are similar bikes I don't know why Kwaka didn't use the same style seat they put on the KLR Cheers Tracy P.S. I tried using the insert image option to a picasa image but all I get is a plain box with a red cross in it??? Quote:
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You should! I think Shaun meant that he goes for the front first and then the rear. The KLE's stock front brakes are sh*te, so I was advised to use sintered pads on the front and normal pads on the back to help get the bias right. Even with this mod and a braided hose fitted, I still think the front is a little weak. With regards to foot position on the brake pedal, I broke my ankle many moons ago and find it uncomfortable to ride with my foot over the pedal, so I just leave it on the peg and move it onto the pedal when required. I'm not sure whether that's correct procedure, but I've never missed the pedal or got to it too late - to the contrary, I've locked the rear on a couple of occasions, but less said about that... Good luck with the KLE. |
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