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ARB 24v compressor problem
Hope someone can help me here
My 24V ARB compressor has stopped working. I think it is a relay labelled P1512XP which switches the motor. Now, the motor is 24v so reasonably there is 24 coming into it from the red wire. There is a blue, which according to the wiring diagram comes from the pressure switch and has 12v coming through (some of the parts of the compressor are only 12v so that sounds OK) However, the relay is labelled 12v, So is the the correct relay to use for this compressor? It is the one it came with. If so, anyone know where I can get new relays? Ta |
Hi Moggy,
Sounds correct, with the switching circuit relay being 12 volts, Id give the guys at Devon 4x4 a call, they are ARB dealers and are very helpful. https://www.devon4x4.com/ |
I'm trying to avoid devon 4x4 at the moment as I'm in a bit of a dispute with them over some IPF lights that have gone rusty after 2 years!!
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would not any 12v 40amp relay work....they all work the same and if you can fit it in to the space then it should work. try maplin in the UK.
Search 12v 40amp relay | Maplin Graeme |
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Yes IPF aren't as good quality as they used to be unfortunately, but they are still bloody expensive. You should be able to buy a generic replay or order the same part number easily, maybe of Fleabay? or through any other off road 4X4 shop. |
When you say pressure switch, do you mean the pressure cut off switch, by that I mean when the correct pressure is reached it cuts the compressor likewise when it is under pressure it turns on the compressor? These in my very limited experience are operated with air presure pushing against a spring the tighter the spring the higher the cut off pressure. I did not think they had a relay as they are mechanical. I don't know ARB though. I don't mean to teach you how to suck eggs but the relay will just switch a heavy load i.e. 40amps. It should be possible to test the old relay to see which is the switch side and which is the load side and wire in a generic one. Can you post a picture of the old one? Even if the new relay did not fit it would be possible to fit it externally so to speak. It is also possible to buy relay holders for plug in relays.
Graeme |
The 24V version of the compressor is only half 24V. The fan and the relais are 12V. I changed them to 24V versions, bcs I don't have 12V in my truck. All are standard components so you should be able to replace the relais easily in case it is broken. As I do not use the switches for the difflocks, I am not sure if they are supplied with 24V or 12V.
gesendet mit Tapatalk |
There is a small circuit schematic printed on the relay. Just find compatible one. Standard car relay.
gesendet mit Tapatalk |
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I did wonder if it failed because it's a 12v relay, but has a 24v in and out. the switching from the pressure switch is 12v, can't remember the other one off the top of my head. In the end I swallowed my pride and bought one from Devon, and a spare because I'm not convinced it will last. The compressor has had very little use and that one failed already (after 2 years and the compressor probably being used less than a dozen times) so I'm not that confident about their durability, especially in the arduous environment under the bonnet of a leaf sprung expedition truck. I would prefer it to be rated up to 24v I would have to say, I am not impressed with a lot of the supposedly good quality (i.e. expensive) aftermarket parts. So far: My IPF lights which cost well over £200 are going rusty My upracks roof rack snapped it's weld, before it even had anything put on it, it became apparent that when it was made they had bent the metal vertically out of shape as they bent the corners into shape, so the 2 ends didn't match up. They forced them together and welded them up, but the weld couldn't take the strain so it broke. My longranger fuel tank, supposedly purpose made for the vehicle, didn't come with all the necessary fititngs, and the front hangs down in the middle of the vehicle and as it is a simple rectangle that makes the leading edge a right angle so it was very vulnerable, so I had to get a skid plate made up. ARB compressor, well, yes! Time will tell with the other bits I guess! Thanks for all the tips guys, and the quick responses |
The thickness of the cable determines the amps it can handle, the volts could be anything. As long as you are not putting 40amps on the switch side the maplin one should be fine. If you want to send me the old one I will take a look and see.
Graeme |
Thanks a lot for the very generous offer. Got a replacement from Devon in the end, but now it looks like the compressor is buggered!!
It fired up ok, but wasn't putting any air through the remote tank, then after a bit it started making a hideous whining noise so I had to switch it off. Will take it to bits in a bit, but first of all, I have to sort out the electrics because the 24v-12v dropper just failed!! Ho hum, whats that about aftermarket parts!! |
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It could be worse Moggy, you could be driving a Land Rover ;) |
haha, thats true!!
All the Toyota bits are fine. I've always encouraged people to try and keep things stock on their motors because it's the aftermarket bits that fail (unless it's a landrover of course:innocent:), and this rather seems to be proving to be the case, and thats on UK roads, since the rebuild it hasn't been on a proper hard trip!! |
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I would strongly suggest against taking 12v of one battery of a dedicated 24v system... Learned the hard way when a friend told me it was okay to take it for the radio... Google and you will find out. It is better to get a good 24/12 DC/DC converter for all you 12v appliances. Adventurous greetings, Coen |
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