Must take Sapre parts D90 TD5 - Maroc Overland
 

I am taking my TD5 to Marocco next year for 20 days (Sahara - Atlantic road), and I was wondering what MUST HAVE spare parts that should i carry?
In the forum i read of a spare ECU (preprogramed) / fuel pump for example but i would like to get your insight guys, i will need to buy soon and it would be good to have your input:

Thx

Che

Unless you can make a deal with your supplier that he would take the parts back after the trip, I don't think you should bother with the ECU or fuel pump. The ECU won't go up in smoke, and if the fuel pump happens to pack up, you can always bodge something with a jerrycan on the roof and some tube to funnel the fuel to the fuel filter.

I'd take general nuts and bolts, wire, tube and tape. If something breaks, it's not gonna be the part you're carrying, and if you're carrying everything that possibly will break, you're overloading the car and will break a lot. Morocco isn't the end of the world after all....

Got your point, my DEF 90 is a 2005 model and so far no problems, i do usually do green laning here in portugal but since morrocco was something a bite far from portugal i was thinking about taking a couple of important spares for my TD5 . well i appreciate your opinion.


che

Take plenty of EP90 oil
a couple of sets of wheel bearings
grease
a hub spanner
some propshaft UJ's

Other than that, just take a good tool kit, a big hammer, gaffer tape and a decent stable jack (ie not a hi-lift)

don't forget the big hammer.

my final doubt, for the filters and belts....that as well should be looked over during car maintaince only and can do without it during the trip...

Thx

Che

It's all down to how much space you have free really - you're unlikely to have to change an oil filter so I wouldn't bother with that. A spare air filter can be useful, and I guess there's no harm in taking a spare alternator belt as they don't really take up any space.

As Robbert says though, Morocco isn't the end of the earth and as long as you've got bits of tape, tube and string you'll be able to cope with most problems till you can get to a workshop, and there are plenty in Morocco.

If you can get them cheap enough, i'd take a MAF (Mass airflow meter) not very big, although if the one is dead on your engine, it'll still run.

The only thing that will stop your engine (sensor wise) is the crank position sensor, about £30 UKP. without this...no go, so definately worth taking one as they can and do go wrong.

All the other sensors (MAF included) have a "safe reading" programmed into the ECU, so if one of them does go wrong, it'll use an average setting for them. you may lose some performance, but at least you'll still be moving.

Like I say, the crank position one is the thing i'd carry. and if you can get a spare fuel pump, go for one of those too., i don't think a jerrycan on the roof will work (like it will with a Tdi) as the in-tank pump supplies the fuel rail at about 4bar, so gravity feed probably won't cut it.

another useful mod, is to cut a hole in the rear tub, then screw back on a cover plate. cut it over the position of the fuel pump, so when (not if) it goes wrong, it's a 20 minute job instead of several hours removing the tank/towbar/tank guard etc etc.

PM me your email and i'll send over the dimensions of the hole that needs cutting for 90 and 110

You won't necessary need one, but a nanocom unit might be handy. if problems occur you can easily fault-find the engine.

Very good advice Jim. Is the crank sensor you mentioned located on the bell housing just above and to one side of the flywheel?

I have a D2 and I have made a section of carpet just above the fuel pump access plate in the boot floor removable, should I have a problem I won't need to remove my whole drawer system just to lift the carpet to gain access.

Yup, that's the one, held in with an M6 bolt... some have a small shim to space the end of the sensor away from the crank itself.

Hi Jim,

Just saw your post now and i will take into consideration.

You talked about the crank position sensor that is very important do you have a ref. code so that i can buy it from LR dealer here.

One thing i did not understand this hole in the rear tub is it to access both the sensor and the fuel pump or only the fuel pump

Can you send me to my e-mail sherifsalem@yahoo.com the drawings for a defender 90 allthough let tell you that i have a drawer MSS in the back

another useful mod, is to cut a hole in the rear tub, then screw back on a cover plate. cut it over the position of the fuel pump, so when (not if) it goes wrong, it's a 20 minute job instead of several hours removing the tank/towbar/tank guard etc etc.

PM me your email and i'll send over the dimensions of the hole that needs cutting for 90 and 110


At the end of the day i will share the information i compiled from opinions and experiences and came out with this spare list for my TD5 which is ok for me and reminds me to be better sfe than sorry.



AP driveline clutch kit for TD5plate,cover and release bearing 826333Fuel Filter elementGenuine TD5 - ESR4686GFuel Lift pump 90 TD5 WFX000250Oil Filter TD5 DefGenuine LPX 100590GRotor ( Recomended to change oil)Genuine TD5 - ERR6299GAir Filter Genuine TD5 ESR 4238GAlternator Drive Belt ( No-Air)Genuine TD5 PQS 101490 GAlternator Assembly TD5ERR6999Propshaft UJ (replacement)ERR6999Water pump TD5ERR6505 dieselWheel BearingSet of Prop boltsDiesel injector additivecleaner additiveGrease pumpOil 2 literScrews / Bolts / Wire / Adhesive

Propshaft joints I'd take two and replace both at once (if one worns out the other will probably be bad also).

Problems I had with my 300TDI in West-Africa overland trip (40K km): headlight switch melted, vacuum pump failed so only manual brakes (both these are common problems), Koni rear shock rod broke into 2 (my fault, used stiff red Polybush and over tightened top mount nut) plus lost all oil while driving due to loose oil cooler pipe nut (on lunch break I started to investigate why rear door is oily)! And guess what -- I had just put new oil in few days ago so my spare oil jerry can was empty as I had not found good oil in these few days. :oops2: So always have at least 1 full oil change with you. Good luck I was only some 10 km from truck shop where I got SAE40. Interesting point is that oil pressure warning light did not lit up -- perhaps there was some pressure left as the pipe was still connected (but leaking), but oil was all gone, dipstick did not register any and it took 6 liters.

Gave my spare water pump to some other tourists, theirs failed.

Mate for your trip I would take a fan belt and at least 3 fuel filters as the TD5 likes clean fuel a funnel with a filter is a good bet.

Do an oil change before you go making sure you put loctite sealer on the filler and drain bolts.

the Crank senser is a good idea, but as mentioned lots of duct tape, wire dont worry about oil as mentioned you can get it every where. or someone will have it.

If a Prop or UJ fails then just disconnect and stick it in CDL did this to a Toyota in WA and an Iveco in India.

A rave cd or workshop manual is a good bet.

The only spares you need are ones that will stop you in your tracks, ie if a shock goes you can still drive but a bit bouncy as we found out on the Mitchel falls road. Ignore what people say the TD5 is a very worthy engine for overlanding.

I took my 300tdi to Morocco for 4 weeks (4350miles) and i to broke the vac pump AND lost the 6 litres from the oil cooler pipe! only had 3 litres of oil and that didnt register on the dipstick either. Had to flag someone down to go find me some. my pressure switch did work on this occasion, but not quick enough.

The vac pump went in northern morocco and we were on a tight schedule so drove home with it broken.

when i got it replaced the brakes still dont quite seem right :confused1: wonder if i wore something else out :confused1: hmmm... passed the MOT ok though :thumbup1:

G

After I put new vacuum pump brakes were very good and still are. Perhaps you have some air in brake system or old spongy brake lines? I put steel braided brake lines and brakes are very firm and good. You can also disconnect main vacuum hose that goes to brake servo and feel if vacuum is good. If not then pump is not good or there is leak in hose.

The crank sensor is NSC100790, held in place with an M6x12 bolt (FS106127L... could be worth getting one, just in case you drop it in the sand and lose it!)