News from Morocco
 

Hi all,

Arrived in Maroc yesterday. We're a group of six 4x4s. No hassle at Tanger regarding the new regulations regarding rally/raids. Seems to be aimed at the bigger organised group events.

Loads of rain again this year. Lots of flood damage in the north between Ksar el Kebir and Sidi Kacem. The road south from Sidi Kacem has been washed away by a mudslide and is closed for the forseeable future. Traffic for Meknes is now being routed via Moulay Idriss.

The Meknes campsite has been closed down. (I won't miss the toilet block). We were told that they hadn't been paying their bills so they were shut down.

Camping International in Fes has been smartened up and is reasonably busy today.

Will keep you posted on piste conditions as we head south.

Happy trails,

Jojo

Hi Jojo,
I'm very jealous, i just got back from 5 weeks over there, really would have prefered to stay!!
We had a lot of fun and games with the weather and the resulting level of the water table. It was crazy seeing the Draa still in full flood when it reached the dunes at Chiggaga! We had to make quite a few diversions at river crossings, both off road and on, but our biggest challenges were the 'dry' lake beds.
If you want any specific info, just let me know, i'd be happy to help any way i can

Have a great trip
Sam

I'm due out there next week, so would be interested in any other updates you can give.

Looks like the weather has improved this week, it's our first trip out so a bit worried about what we might find!! How long are you out there for JoJo, will keep my eye out for you?

Enjoy,
Chris

Hi Chris,
I certainly wouldn't get too worried, Morocco is a wonderfull country and Moroccans, generally, are wonderfull people.
Just don't expect 'plan a' to come off every time in terms of route planning. As long as you are prepared to adapt to what the weather/terrain gods deal you, you'll have a great time.
The river levels can drop very quickly if it's been dry for a day or two. Many rivers we couldn't cross one day were doable at a pinch the next.

To be honest, I've spent the last month making notes from all the posts on here, marking maps with various routes and programming my GPS. the main reason for this is that we wanted to keep the trip as loose as possible and see how we got on.

The only plan is to head south as quick as we can to get over to Ourzazate and then we'll play it by ear from there.

We'll hopefully meet people along the way too - as this site proves, the best places to head to are not necessarily the places listed in books!!

Thank you Jojo, very useful information as we were set to stay in the Meknes campsite.

Seems there will be a few people from the Hubb in Morocco soon. :thumbup1:

Last year I spotted hardy any UK plates and we met hardly any other Overlanders.

Bound to Morocco myself next week on 2nd April first timer as Chris :thumbup1:

Heading down south to Merzouga and intend to do Taouz Tagonite piste as my first encounter later is the Mahmid - Foum Ziguid piste via (Erg Chigaga).

We are 6 4x4´s and keep a lot o route options open precisely because of floods, river crossings and river beds.

Weather is improving that is a fact, i am in contact with Auberge Du Sud in Erg Chebbi that is confirming this.

I would appreciate Jojo if you can keep us posted when you can.

Just a question, when it is said that river beds were difficult (they must all be Muddy but crossable):confused1: or you had to wait a couple of days

Che

There were plenty that looked bad initially, but when reccied on foot the bottom was firmer than expected and we were ok to cross.
Some were just too wide and flowing too fast to even think about crossing, on two occasions, the same crossings were ok the next day.
Other times, the banks were cut up so steep and deep that we had to find another way round. No amount of waiting would have helped us.

Sam

Thanx Sam

And when you say quoting:

"but our biggest challenges were the 'dry' lake beds."

What you mean they were not dry lake beds anymore, you had to find your way around them or through it all the same.

for example lake IKRI....how was it ??

cheers

che

Soggy!!

This is the truck after Iriki
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2755/...22d5541b03.jpg

It wasn't actually as bad as we were expecting based on what we'd seen upto that point.
We still sank like a stone once or twice though!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/...2f70369dc3.jpg

There is another lake bed on the run from Smara to Assa that was much more problematic, tried for half a day to get around it but was no way. We slept on it and luckilly in the morning it was quite a bit dryer, still tricky, but doable.
There was quite a bit of standing water in places, but they would have been easy to avoid, it was the thick soft clay/mud that we were struggling with.

But.....it's the moments like that that you remember forever....right??
I wouldn't change the experiences of the trip for anything!!

Quoting Sam:

"But.....it's the moments like that that you remember forever....right??
I wouldn't change the experiences of the trip for anything!!"

You have said it all.....:thumbup1:

Che

Tarmac, tarnac everywhere!
 

Hello again folks,

Headed south from Fes as normal. The piste from Midelt to Imilchil is now virtually all tarmac. The old route down through the forest with the 101 river crossings has now been closed. The new route is a masterpiece and very scenic - but it's tarmac!!! Not much snow left and not much rain compared to the north.

From Imilchil to Tamtattouchte is mostly tarmac with only the top of the Tizi Tinerhouzine still gravel. They've chopped out the top hairpins and the descent is now direct. The bottom of the Todra gorge took a pasting 4 weeks ago and the area outside the Hotel Yasmin is one great rubble heap. Funny how the coaches can always get through, though?

To be honest, none of this is a surprise and the villages do have a more prosperous feel with lots more smiley kids about. It's still a great route.

We're in Tinerhir now, a bit windy, and then off over Jebel Sahro tomorrow and on to Zagora. We also had fun at Lac Iriki last year. Thwarted by gloopy mud only 300m from the Cheggaga dunes. Lac Maider was no better the next day. Never seen it so wet. We had to divert south to find a way around; there's always a way round. All good fun.

Don't be put off, there are still hundreds of miles of pistes and they all go somewhere! The greatest pleasure is finding your own route.

We're over here till 18 April and then back tail-end of May. Will keep you updated, inshallah!

Happy trails,

Jojo

Thanx Jojo all usefull information, I guess I will keep coming for more...:thumbup1:

Gravel at last!
 

Hi all,

Left Tinerhir yesterday and began the Jebel Sahro crossing as normal.

And we found 20km of grading in preparation for tarmac laying...

It's the section after the oued crossing around N31.22.186 W5.33.014 to the track junction on the plateau at N31.17.697 W5.35.827 where the track heads east along the valley and begins climing into the foothills. They've straightened out the track, smoothed out the gradients and got rid of the hairpins, especially the nice complex at the shark-fin rock.

Not a good start but I'm pleased to say that the rest of the route is as normal. The descent from the Tizi is as rough and bumpy as ever!

There's a new campsite at Nekob across the road from the Ziz fuel station. (Could be a good stop if you've had problems en route.)

The road from Nekob to the Ouarzazate-Zagora road is being widened. It's not open yet but the've kindly prepared a 30km piste running parallel and criss-crossing the road!

Arrived in Zagora at 7pm and 32 degC. Lovely!

Heard via Peter at Biker's Home that Lac Iriki is dry and driveable so we're leaving tomorrow for Foum Zguid.

Filled the fridge with beer this morning so I'm off to reap the benefit!

Happy trails,

Jojo

Thanks Jojo for these updates, much appreciated :thumbup1:

I do like the sound of 32c it's grey and raining here in South UK at the moment.

It is no better here, in Holland :thumbdown: I am coming to morocco end of April till the end of Mei. I like the sound of 32 and up.
Rob

If you liked that, you'll love this!
 

Hi All,

Hot and dry in the south, 42 degC at Lac Iriki. dry as a bone and great driving. Piste from Zagora to Foum Zguid same as ever. Found a couple of locals in the middle of nowhere in a 110 with a puncture and shredded tube. Half an hour and a new tube later has bought us some good karma!

Lots of activity in the Chegagga dunes and on nthe piste to Erg Chebbi. It's Semana Santa (Holy Week) so lots of Spanish tearing around. Looking forward to some peace and quiet next week.

The only other new tarmac we've seen is near Tagnouite, a 10km stretch around Blidet. It used to be a dreadful corrugated wallowy piste, so I'll forgive them for that!

Happy trails,

Jojo

Many thanks for taking the time to update on the condition of these routes and camping info.

We have four L200s going in September.....Can't Wait

How the other half live!
 

Just popped in to the Xaluca Hotel in Erfoud to take a look for another group.

Check it out XALUCA | HÔTELS | XALUCA ARFOUD | Présentation

Give me a wild camp evey time!

Happy trails,

Jojo

I recall someone proposed the original HU meeting in Morocco at this joint a couple of years back. No wonder people were put off.

I can think of so many nicer and less expensive places to stay down south.

Ch

I agree !
 

Nothing, and I mean absolutely NOTHING beats a wild camp in the desert, with a small fire, the stars and good friends..........
No luxury resort or 20 star hotel can even come close..........

Interesting stuff, I'm back in Morocco on the 17th of April, 5 of us on XR650R's. Going via the Rif, edge of the Rekkam, round the back of Erg Chebbi down to Checagga, Jebel Sahro, Todra, Imilchil, Cirque du Jaffer and back north. Sounds like there's a few others out there at the same time so if you see us please say hello.

Is the old Cirque du Jaffer piste from Imilchil to Midelt definately closed now? Whats to stop us doing it unless it's been washed away and never reapired. Would much rather do that than the new tarmac road, cheers. Shaun.

I very much doubt the Cirque has been sealed, nor will be anytime soon; there's only some shepherds down there.

I think what J was referring to was the commonly washed out wooded gorge just after Anemzi village around KM120 from Midelt (or ~43km from the point where you [used to?] leave the tar road south of Imilchil).
They were doing it up 2 years ago.

Looks like a great route you have planned on the XRs. Try MH5 out of Alnif then MH4 down to Tinerhir. That will get the forearms pumped up!

Ch

Hi,
I can confirm the Midelt - Agoudal piste was definitely not sealed in Feb this year, and certainly no sign of any plans to seal it.
It was muddy, snowy and a bit washed out in places, but nothing to trouble your XR's too much.

Have fun
Sam

Ha Ha the big smile returns to my face if the Cirque remains piste.

Cheers guys for the info and Chris I'll dig your book out tonight when I get home and check if our route includes MH4 & 5.

The piste Midelt-Agoudal was repaired for a Royal visit in december, 2008. Perhaps it won´t be sealed soon but asphalt runs very much in Morocco, sadly for us but not for moroccans that live in little villages...

The piste of Jaffar remains piste but only for bikes. There is a big stone in the middle of the track that not allows to pass cars

Hi Pera,
When did you see the rock in the piste?
We found this one in Feb, but squeezed through no problems

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/...aaba11c18a.jpg

Could this be the one you are talking about?

Sam

Hi Chris,

Back home and checked your book, our intended route does indeed take in MH4 & MH5 and of course the top end of MH1 (Cirque du Jaffer)

You won't remeber me but we met in London in the early 80's when I nearly bought your Yam XS750 just before you left on I think what may have been your first African trip, which I've gotta admit inspired me greatly when I read about your travels in Superbike (if my jaded memory has not faded too much), cheers for the advice and for writing some very good books.

Yes, it's that rock. I've seen it january, 2008 but a friend told me that november, 2009 the rock not allows to pass a car. I've also seen pics from last summer of a car like yours trying to pass.

José Manuel (pera for friends)

Thanks José,
I know a few 4x4's heading that way soon, so it's good to know that it is the rock you meant.
It was quite tight in my landcruiser, but with a friend watching my rear wheel for me it was fine. I rubbed a rear tyre on the rock slightly, but no damage and it could have been avoided (i blame my friend, but i would, wouldn't I?!!:innocent:).
Anything wider than a TLC, LR 110 etc will struggle (or more likely, fail) to get through though.

Sam

Nothing at all Niva, but remember I´m pera for friends, Jose only at job...

Trying to find my friend pics I found this others. These people pass with an HDJ100 on july,2009 but they must come back because they couldn´t pass down in they bottom of the circus.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...5/CIMG5575.jpg

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...5/P1030007.jpg

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...5/P1020999.jpg

Sorry pera, i missunderstood, i'll take the friend option!

yer 'avin a larf
 

I'll write small as its off topic and we'll get moderated.

... when I nearly bought your Yam XS750...

Was that the bored-out nitrous-oxide one or one I had before?
Can't remember what happened to the NO2, but I loved the non-nitrox XS650 and nearly bought one last year but he wanted 900 quid!
Nitrous could scare the horses, tho'...

Funnily enough a bloke has cropped up elsewhere on HU today with my original Garmin which I used to log Sahara O. It's a small world.

Back OT. Enjoy MH4 & MH5. MH5 cost me a lot, one way or the other so good to see people are giving it a bash (or in my case - no bash = cracked case). Jb Sarhro is a nice spot.

Ch

I also hear the Oued Draa is temporarily blocking the far end of MW3 28km from Tan Tan (and possibly MW2 then).

Ch

Morocco Overland ~ Updates

http://www.infar.co.uk/tim/midelt-imilchil.jpg

This is the current state of the pistes/roads in the area as of about a week ago. Starting from Midelt in top right corner there's 52km of sometimes quite technical piste (marked in red). Part way along you can see another cyan (easy) then black (really hard) track coming in. The black bit I named the 'Jaws of Jaffar' and you can see a video of it at YouTube - Jaws of Death. My classifications are based on motorbikes and in some ways the 'jaws' might be easier than the cirque for 4x4s.

The middle section that used to be a mix of good gravel roads and tarmac is now completely tarmac (dark yellow) and at the southern end you can see the new bit of tarmac road that bypasses the other section of technical (red) piste with all its river crossings. In all this section is 71km.

Below Anfgou is a 32km stretch of non-technical (cyan) piste that ends at tarmac just south of Imilchil.

My recommendation for a hotel in the area is the Auberge Tislite situated on the shores of Lake Tisli to the north of Imilchil. It's basic but the kindly lady who runs the place is a great cook. Video here: YouTube - Tislite Bride

Tim

Also, in Feb, MH7 was blocked by a boulder at N30 46.998 W7 36.627.
I reckon with a couple of hours work we could have got round it (on the bank to the left), but it was just the excuse i needed to check out a camp spot a couple of km back down the track towards Anezal (it was stunning by the way, highly recomended).
I don't know how much traffic the route gets, it may well be fine by now, but this is what we found

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/...2386bdebf7.jpg

Would need a bit more muscle than i'm carrying to shift that one!

It's certainly a great location. 3 of us stayed there about 3 weeks ago. Bit early in the season, and freezing until they fired up the whacky stove in the main room, and the dorm felt a bit mothballed. We got the feeling they weren't really open yet, but they wouldn't budge on 240 Dh half board per person. (It was late and they knew we weren't riding any further having come from a desert bivvy south of Fezzou that day.) Good food though, and hot water, so overall I'd recommend it too.

Scanner trouble at Tanger port!
 

Hi all,

The guys at the port have splashed out on a new X-ray scanner to check vehicles prior to embarkation.

At present, they're checking 4x4s, camper vans and trucks. Cars get a poke with a screwdriver and bikers get a nod and a wave!

Seriously, though, expect a 2 to 3 hour delay. We missed our ferry and were forced onto the slow boat - 3 hour crossing and then an hour bobbing in Algeciras harbour wairting for a berth. Not happy bunnies!

Other news, the free campsite in Larache has closed down, don't know why. The one down the road only takes camper vans. No sanitaires , I think. They were pretty unfriendly too.

The Cirque is still piste and Chris is correct the wooded gorge route has been blocked off. Tim, it's the short red section on your map,. We couldn't drive it, do you know different? The new route is a real feat of road building but let's see the effect of a few Atlas winters

Any one know if the Motorway reaches all the way to Marrakesh yet? I need a fast drive to Tanger next week.

Back in Tinerhir tonight and it's quarter to beer o'clock!

Happy trails,

Jojo

Hi Jojo,

Thanks for the updates, we are heading to the south beginning of May, can't wait. Unfortunately only 2 weeks to spare.
Sad to hear Larache is closed, it was an easy first stop entering Morocco.
The scanner at Tanger port was there in July already, friends of our had to put their 130 camper conversion through, 3 batteries confused them a bit and it took a long time convincing them it actually were batteries.
According to Peter (Bikershome) the highway (toll) goes all the way from Tanger to Marrakesh (and back I guess but it's Morocco so you'll never know).

Question for the group:
We would like to take the fast ferry Tarifa - Tanger again, arriving in South Spain on a Sunday in the afternoon.
Does anybody know if Carlos' Ticket Office is open on Sunday? Or is it just as expensive buying the tickets at the port in Tarifa?

Kind regards,

Daan

You gonna moderate yourself Chris? It was the early non nitrous bike. Back on topic...MH4 & 5 should prove interesting as this will be my first big ride since operation on my thumb to repair a snapped ligament, i've cheated and fitted a steering damper for a bit of help.

Thanks Tim (Cullis) for the recent track log of the Jaffer, very helpful.

We'll be in Morocco on Saturday.

Scanner
 

Hi Daan,

They're on their second scanner. The first one is parked up in a compound looking pretty sorry for itself. The New one is based around a shiny Mercedes truck. It's hooked up to mains power by an umbilical.

But in a typically Moroccan way, the power plug is bound to the mains socket with 3 metres of brown packaging tape that was gradually unravelling with each scan!

Current deal from Carlos - 170 euro for Algeciras Tanger on an open return.

Thanks for the autoroute info. The weather in Erfoud today is perfect, sand is firming up following a very hot March, everyone's very chilled after the Easter madness.

Come on down!

Jojo

Hi Jojo,
So it's waiting for fireworks at the port when it really starts raining.:oops2:
Algeciras-Tanger, that's the slow boat :(. I only have got two weeks to spare this time, from which 6 days are gone travelling to and back from Holland to South Spain already. Can't blast southwards with two kids in the back, and miss that day's ferry, time isn't on our side. So I am planning to take the FRS which has a more frequent timetable.

Can't wait to see Morocco in spring, hopefully some water running through the rivers, more green and lower temperatures than July / August.
Just 16 days to go.

Daan

Oh great
 

Our bikes are in Malaga, somebody lets off a volcano in Iceland, UK airports all closed, time for Plan B.

Neither end is blocked off, I was there a couple of days ago and rode about 1km in on the western end and about 3km in on the eastern end (it's 19km in total). It was late, there were black clouds and I was riding solo with luggage otherwise I would have tried the whole lot.

The eastern end has extensive traffic tracks but these are mainly trucks extracting rock and gravel. In places the side piste has crumbled and you have to resort to the river bed, plus ca change.

Tim

Farewell, Tanger...
 

Hi all,

Thanks for that Tim. Yes I saw the side track had collapsed. wasn't sure how far I'd get in the Land Cruiser.

Back home for a bit. The journey home was interesting in the midst of the volcano trouble. Hats off to P&O for getting an extra 500 folk on the Pride of Bilbao and still managing to keep things normal on board.

A right mess at Tanger port again. 8 hours on the dockside this time due to queues at the scanner which caused us to miss our ferry. (We thought we were smart turning up 2 hours early. Ha!) Then the next one had technical problems, and so on.
Still, it gave us time to chat to various folk about the current situation. A Spanish ferry officer thinks the port is on a go-slow trying to extract as much cash as possible from unwary tourists while they can. The new Tanger Port Mediterranee witha new Port Authority will be up and running soon, so the lovely chaps at Tanger Ville Port may be out of work soon.

The new port's pretty impressive with lots of container handling capacity and new road and rail links that have been driven through the mountains.

Other news; the piste from Ait Benhaddou to Telouet has now been completely graded apart from in a couple of villages. They were just finishing the last section bypassing the treacherous hairpin & overhang where the fossil sellers hang out. A main route now for the Marrakech misery wagons!

They're building a new bridge in Midelt so there's a diversion around the west side of town which avoids the hassle at the petrol stations in the centre.

There's a new campsite at the Cascades d'Ouzoud. Hurrah! Camping Zebra is a few hundred metres out of town (Azilal side). Proper facilities, friendly staff Wifi maybe soon. Where will it end?

Back through Ceuta next month and into the Rif. Anyone know how it is in Ketama at present?

Happy trails,

Jojo

celebrity endorsement
 

Hi folks,

Obviously now the vehicle of choice for the desert... Ennahar Online - Ban on import and marketing of « Toyota Station » vehicles

Latest from FCO re Morocco (they SO want to join the EU!)-

"If you are involved in a minor accident, you should complete a 'Constat Amiable' form, to be signed by both parties. The blank forms are available upon arrival at the Tangier port from the insurance company booths, or can be purchased from tobacconists in all cities."

I strongly recommend these. If you have a prang they're great for diffusing a tense situation. Just fill in your side, they fill in theirs and you each send off a copy to your insurance companies. (If you get a payout from a Moroccan insurance company please contact me quoting the code "Yo mamma!" and we'll match their payout)

FWIW form attached


Happy trails,
Jojo

More news:

the coastal road between Tetouan and El Jebha is now an off road track. They are improving the road and there is lot of dust and mud.

The camping site at Cala Iris does no more exists. They are planning an beach resort there. So if you want to see it as a virgin beach, don´t be late.

Also Playa Quemado camp site at AlHoceima is closed but police tell me that is alowed for camp there with security but whitout any services.

The Rif is wonderfull in spring time.

They are talking about doing this project in Cala Iris since at least 4 years, so don't worry it will take lot's of time until they start doing it.
Just be aware there: there was a guy which wanted to give me as a gift a beautiful marine plant which he later told other moroccans it was full with hachis.
I think that probably he would have phoned the police afterwards in order to extort me.

I think this things only happens to the Brits! It´s a joke.

I´ve been for a week at the Rif and no one has offer me ilegal substances. Out of the road between Bab Berret and Ketama I have never been disturbed by haschis sellers and people is so affable and helpful.

I am not 100% sure that it was full with hash. But the conversation they were having (in rifeño) had lot's of times the word hashash pointing and giving the plant.
BTW, it is very good news that there are no dangers now on the Titwan-Alhoceima road. Taking the expensive ferry to Melilla is no longer necessary if one goes to the Nador-Saidia area: just cross in Ceuta or Tanger Med and then drive to the east through Ketama.
When I went 1 month ago, I took the ferry Málaga-Melilla: 240 euros for one person and one car:cursing:: a real theft. I thought that driving through Ketama was very dangerous and wanted to avoid it at all costs.

Yes, the coast road is completly safe, by the way there are little militar post each few km. on the road.

Do you mean the road which goes through the village of Ketama or the one that goes through El Jebha?

No, look at the map. Green line is under works, absolutely hell. Red line is good road with three strips in big slopes. Last week I did Melilla-Ceuta in seven hours with an old atmospheric Nissan Patrol

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5572/dibujoqet.jpg

Good place to stay near "Corniche Rifaine"
 

Hello,

I've done this trip last year, all the way along the coast from Tetouan to Saidia (algerian border). Nice beaches, but sometimes difficult to find places to sleep. Try a "Refugio de Montaña" near Oued Laou beach, runned by a portuguese: www.caiat.com
It´s a good local help.

Rui Pedro Tremoceiro
Alentejo - Portugal

Thanks Rui Pedro,

last week that information would have been very useful. I look for a place for camp or camping site but all where closed until summer. Finally I stoped at Ibis Hotel near Ceuta frontier...