Current situation Westsahara, Mauritania, Mali (Dec 2013)
 

Just drove from Europe to Mali and obviously found a different, much tougher situation, compared to my last trip 7 years ago.

Trip report here: Driving through Westsahara. Mauritania, Mali (Dec 2013) - Gentleman Adventurer

In a nutshell:

Mauritania visa on arrival (50 Euro) now available again at border (since Nov 2013)

Morocco-Mauritania border opens at 08h00 (in reality 09h00) and closes at 18h00, on weekends possibly earlier (14h30 ?)

Car insurance for Mauretania (25 Euro) and - separately - most of West Africa (Brown Card, 75 Euro) available at Mauri border

Mali visa usually available at border, but advise to obtain it beforehand (at Rabat embassy within ca. 1 hour, 60 Euro), because of potential refusal at Mauri-Mali border in the current war turmoil

Mauri-Mali border opens at 08h00 and closes at 18h00 (or 20h00 ?)

Compulsory military escort (soldier in car with AK 47 and 2 magazines; cost 10 Euro) from Mauri-Mali border to Nioro du Sahel and another soldier (50 Euro) from there to Bamako, because of current reflaming of Tuareg rebellion and several AQMI & Ansar Dine incursions and kidnappings in that area

Corrupt chief of brigade at "Douanes" customs office in Nioro du Sahel(Mali) tries to enforce an additional rip-off customs escort on transit travellers (so called T1 carnet), all the way through the country. Avoid this at all cost and insist you enter as a tourist !!! Otherwise you have a customs guard in your car (at 75 - 100 Euro cost, starting in Kati/Bamako) who keeps your passport and car papers and decides your Bamako hotel and the immediate onward drive out of the country.

For Westsahara, Mauritania and Mali you need to prepare a total of 50 (!) "Fiche d'Etat Civile" photocopies to hand out at the many control posts.

Thanks for the new info....50 euros does not sound TOO bad, its still a difficult area with lots of kidnapping and the guys with the beards would normaly target a non escorted vehical rather than one with a guy with a AK

Thanks for the update!:thumbup1:

Cheers,

Gee

Thank you for the informations bier

Surfy

In Mali you would have to get yerself north or east of Tomboctou to get kidnapped these days.
That is a scam they are pulling, just say no.

The difficulty was that the customs chief told us that our military escort ends in Bamako and there we would get our car papers back. Only in Bamako we were told that the escort continues. Try to get your papers back from someone with an AK47 :)

In Kayes I asked at the commissariat if there was a need for escort to Bamako, he replied 'ask the gendarmes'. Went over there and sat for a while, noone was interested. Finally a bossman showed up, he asked me 'are you mr Diallo?' This was so surreal I replied "Non je m'appelle Sidibé. Abdullahi Sidibé!" At this everyone present was laughing and slapping their knees.
I said 'I am going to Bamako'. Bossman said 'Bon voyage!'
That was it.
Lots of crooks around Nioro-Diema and that is where you could also, possibly, be kidnapped.
Man I hate giving away my papers. I will carry copies of passport and driver's license, that is all they are gonna get from me. Once they have your papers you're out of luck.
In Bamako I gave the driver's license away too often to corrupt policemen, finally I said 'look I am not going to pay you even one CEFA, so what are you going to do with it? Show it to your wife??' They found that funny, but insisted I 'needed to support the police'. Wearily I gave him a couple hundred and swore never ever to hand over any important documents again.
Edit: in fact, I doubt I will even stop or pull down the window. Just ignore, ignore.

Hey guys,

In Mali and enjoying the hospitality and the good mood of the people here (especially the girls here :innocent:) We had issues with the gendarmerie in Nior, but with a healthy attitude we where able to get our passports back at Diema.

From there on on our own without any problems.

Cheers Richard

Mauri Oct 2013
 

Just to say we have done a very good trip in Mauri desert this Autumn: 15 days , 3 cars and a very nice guide "petit" Fadel.
Our route: Nouadhibou,banc d'Arguin,Benichab,Akjout,
Erg Amatlich,Amazmaz,Tifoujar,Oued El Abiod(about Akjout--> Oujeft we have followed the route described in Cyril Ribas' book),Oujeft,Atar,Ouadane,Chinguetti,Rachid,Tidjik a ('old piste'),passe de Nega,Boumdeit,Aleg,Diama.

After Sénégal,Gambia,Guinée Bissau and return (the whole trip:10weeks).

If you need more details, just let me know.

RR.

Hi,

Heading there in a couple of weeks, and would appreciate some more info.

Cheers,

Gee

No poblem Thimba, just ask me what infos do you need and I'll try to help you.

RR.

Thanks,

I understand you used a guide. Could you pm me how I can contact him (mail, or perhaps Facebook?).

Cheers,

Gee

FADEL HABIB : 00222 22 44 38 04 - 00222 46 44 38 04


MAIL :info@smcp.mr (not sure about it)


He lives in Nouadhibou.

A very nice guy, indeed

RR.

I heard they now demand you have a fire extinguisher in the vehicle on the Mauri border; correct?
Also heard they are being more strict against carrying extra fuel inside the car (fuel is cheaper in Western Sahara). Some have had their extra bidons confiscated.

Probably true. When Mauri customs saw our 6 fuel canisters in the car, they went into attack mode, but immediately let us go when we showed a diplomatic passport.

In October (and in November, coming back from Senegal) they don't ask for this fire extinguisher, but may be it's mandatory.
We had a second tank full off GO, coming in Mauri from Morocco : no problem.

RR.

Hello RoRo,
i´m just planning our Mauri-Trip in January.
Could you give me some Information about your route?
Do you know wether PNBA is allowed for camper with 7.5 tons?
Akjout - Oujeft is very interesting -what´s about safety there??

Regards
Juergen

For this kind of vehicle, I don't know; but I think there is no problem about authorisation because you are not crontoled when you enter PNBA: you just have to pay the fees for entrance into the park in Nouamgar.
About security between Akjout and Oujeft, I think it's secure at this time.

RR.

PNBA and trucks
 

When I was there in 2006 with my 9 tonne Merc 4x4 I was told very politely that vehicles over 3.5 tonnes weren't officially allowed however the park official allowed me to stay because as he put it I'd driven all the way there! However I didn't go in through the 'official' entrance and simply turned off the road just north of the gas station and went across the sand to get there. I managed to get stuck on my way back a week later but that's another story........!

Q

Hi everybody,

I've wrote a little report about my recent trip in Mauri but ...... it's in French (because I'm French and too lazy to translate it).
However, if you want it, just let me know, and I'll post it as private message.
Happy new year's eve and happy travels for 2014.

RR/

Report on Mauretania trip
 

I would be interested in reading your report; French is no problem.

Mauritania Mali report
 

I woulod also be " très intéressé" for your complete report.

Pierre

I'm also interested. No problem with the french

Hello RoRo,

pleas let me know, French is no Problem.

Regards
Juergen

Hi everybody, I've sent some private messages about my recent Mauri's trip and I hope it will help....

RR.

new to forum
 

Hi there- planning a trip down through Mauritania, Mali, Burkina Faso in Nov. 2014 and interested in as many details as possible.

RORO, we are learning french, so your account would be good practice! As a new member, I am unable to send PM until after 5 posts...

Rick

Yes please!
Thanks,

Gee

I've uploaded RoRo's Mori trip report with pics here.

Ok so crossed the frontier three days ago
No traffic, Moroccan side 20 minutes, Mauri side one hour.
50 euros non negotiable biometric visa.
Douane didn't even look at the vehicle, so bring beer.
Exchange euros you can get 405 ougiya don't accept less then
390.
Now in Noakchott having the engine apart hoping for the best :)
Btw you can apparently drive anywhere in the country now after asking the gendarmes.
Only two gendarme checkpoints border-Nouakchott. Drove in the
dark after reassuring the young gendarm I was ok.

Thanks for the updates. Sorry to hear about the engine. Can you also update us on fuel prices in RIM?

Ch

Hi,

Does that mean you got your Mauri visa at the border?

Cheers, and good luck with the engine!

Gee

Gazoil is 390 and gasoline 430 or thereabouts.
12HT engine is now spinning like a cat. :)
1000 euros spent. Some great garages in Nouakchott, African
style of course.

Hi Priffe,

Lot of money, but good that you're on the road again.:thumbup1:

Did you get your Mauri visa at the border?

Happy trails,

Gee

Priffe & Thimba

I wish you the best that you both has more luck with your vehicles now!!

Better to had the repairs at the beginning, i guess later it is harder to get spares.

Surfy

interested in any more info on Mauritania visa. Seems like it may be possible to get at border (from Western Sahara), in Rabat, or potentially in advance from consulate. Any recommendations on cost or best option of these 3?

thanks.

Mauri visa at the border by Nouadibou 50 euros don't even need to bring a photo.
Takes ten minutes.
No need to ask again.
Just get it on the border.

This is not good advice IMHO.

Just a thought to consider for anyone who has never been down that way and is ' in planning '.

Things change rapidly in Africa...- This border has issued visas before then stopped- then started again then stopped again.
Please consider the distance... it's about 1,287miles (or 2,060 Kms) between Rabat and Nouadhibou.

By taking a chance and not getting your visa in Rabat could mean you drive/ride/camel-ride/etc an extra 2,574 miles (or 4,118 Kms)

Is it really worth the risk considering most will go through or near Rabat on the way down?

So I do not agree with priffe- doh :innocent:

I hear you Bertrand but the biometric
visa at the border is too convenient. Just
get updated on the latest info before heading
south. No need to overnight in Rabat.
Mali visa: get it on the border.
Burkina: too expensive on the border, 2-4 times
the cost of getting it on the embassy.
Visa d'entente: for five countries, get it in Ouaga and save time and money.
I'll write more about that in the proper forum.

This is up-to-date and relevant info, febr 2014.

... or quickly fly from Dakhla.

To each his own technique. But I have had cases when I was refused at borders WITH prior visa (Libya, Angola, others).

So I agree. Things change quickly in Africa. One has to be flexible.

I always try visa at the border, even in hard cases.

BTW: the compulsory Visa-in-Rabat episode was short. Two, three years?

I agree with Bertrand, better safe than sorry. That's why I'm now waiting for my Mauri visa in Bamako. At the mauri embassy they told me that there are no visa's available at the Nioro/Sogui border coming from Mali.

visa at Mauri border update
 

Hi all,

Just to update on the availability of the Mauritanian visa at the border. Crossed yesterday and got it there. Efficient, all done within an hour. 50 euro for 1 month, to be paid in euro only.
The Moroccan side took 8 hours! And I was there at 7.30 in the morning.:(
Wanted me to unpack the car, and looked in all the boxes. Dear customs officials: I'm exiting your country, not entering it.

Cheers,

Gee