Gilf Kebir & Jebel Uweinat - good news and bad news
 

I have received information that the Egyptian Military have withdrawn all permissions (including those already issued) for the deep desert, in the fine traditions of the land without any explanation (and needless to say, without giving the money back...). The grapewine suggests that with the gold discoveries south of the border in Sudan, they do not want competition...

The good news is that for the present it is possible to visit Uweinat from the Sudanese side, we have recently returned from a remarkably hassle and problem free two week trip to the mountain with logistics arranged in Khartoum. I have started working on a trip account and will update it periodically as time permits.

The gold mining activities are located about 20-30 kilometres to the ESE of Uweinat, and for the time being it appears that the mountain itself is left in peace, we found it completely deserted both on the Northern and Southern sides. The (unverified) gossip picked up from Dongola truck drivers who still run the Kufra route is that there is no more Libyan presence at Ain Dua and Ain Ghazal, the border formalities are now completed at Kufra.

Like all other posters on the various threads, I have found Sudan to be incredibly refreshing and pleasant after the various North African experiences, returning for the first time since 1981. The Sudanese are extremely friendly and pleasant to work with. A remarkable aspect of the country is the almost total lack of hassles and harassment to which one had become accustomed and immune to in Egypt. One may walk about anywhere in peace, without being offered anything for sale, asked for any gift or baksheesh, or even being stared at.

Andrasz, I want to travel to the Sudan through Libya in Nov, Dec this year. Are you suggesting that it may be possible to go via Kufra?

I have been resigned to going Libya, Egypt, Sudan.

Travelling via Uweinat seems like a dream!

Are there places in northern Sudan, on the route to Khartoum, where petrol is available?

Thanks for your post.

Aliprovidor.

Aliprovidor,

No, I'm definitely not suggesting that. Nobody really knows of the present conditions in the south east of Libya, and I have not heard of any foreigner being permitted to go and find out in the past year or so (not that there were too many volunteers). The last first hand info I have dates from nearly a year ago when somebody observed in Jalo a group of two dozen or so 'technicals' (Toyota pickups with a half inch MG mounted on the platform) heading south to persuade the quarreling tribes in Kufra to either stop killing each other, or if not then at least to do it quietly... Judging by the grim look on the faces of the usually cheerful lads manning them, they meant business. The info on no more Libyan post at Uweinat is plausible, but only underscores the situation. Then again, it could well be outdated or not true at all.

Assuming the unlikely event that you somehow manage to reach Kufra and are permitted further south, the route is ~1000 km of totally empty desert with long stretches of soft sand and no water or fuel along the way, impossible for anything but a well equipped 4wd - and even then it should be attempted only in tandem, provided you really know what you're doing.

I do not find it inconcievable though that if and when the dust does eventually settle in Libya (emphasis on IF), you might be permited to buy your way on a trading truck, which could most certainly carry you and your motorcycle (or you may ride along, the truck being the support vehicle with fuel & water). It would certainly be a nice and totally novel experience, I do know of people in Sudan who would be able to set this up (including the necessary paperwork so the welcome on the arrival end is not frosty), but I think we're years away from even contemplating this.

Hello Andras,

How do you get a truck into Sundan avoiding Eypt? Is shipping to Port Sudan or another harbour an option? Through Ethiopia? Someone once told me there are regular commercial flights between Addis ad Amsterdam, but it may be far fetched.

I guess shipping to Port Sudan is your only option, there is no other port of entry to my knowedge. There are now regular cargo flights to Khartoum too (eg. Turkish Airlines flies in daily with an A330) but a truck would be too big to get on board, a smaller car or a motorbike could be flown in/out. I would assume that these flights mainly bring in cargo, Sudan has little to export that would sustain the cost of air freight, so possibly one could negotiate some better rates for flying a motorbike out than getting one in. It would be very pricey nevertheless.

Friends looked into shipping to Europe from Port Sudan last year and it was very expensive (several thousand euro). Possibly because it involves going via the Suez Canal.

The below is taken from a recent BBC article about the rising costs of freight using Suez (apparently tolls increased 3% in 2012 and are due for another 2-5% increase in May).

"A standard container ship bringing consumer goods on that route pays around $1 million in tolls for a return trip through the canal, representing around a quarter of costs for such a voyage".

Of course the alternative is a 10,000km detour ...

Still not doing it quietly...
 

Just picked up this bit of news dated 10th April:

"Fresh violence has broken out on the south-eastern town of Kufra, scene earlier last year of heavy communal fighting between its Zway and Tebu residents. Two people are reported to have been killed and a number of others wounded in three days of mortar firing and shooting."

Fresh violence flares in Kufra | Libya Herald

Apparently the dust had not quite settled yet...

egypt - no permissions for the deep desert ???
 

hi
whats going on in Egypt with the permissions for the Western Desert, Gilf Kebir and Uweinat???

Is there no TO to comment this rumors :( ?

I was in Uweinat, egyptian side, 3 weeks ago and had no problems at all.
The border post at Uweinat controlled our permissions and that was it.

Ursula

Hello Ursula,

Good to hear you're safely back, that is some good news. I received the info from a party who were prevented from going to the Gilf about five-six weeks ago. As we know in that fine land, the rules are totally unpredictable...

Jebel Uweinat
 

Have finally completed the account of our March 2013 Expedition to Jebel Uweinat, Sudan

Hi Andras,

This is a great trip report with equally great pictures! Thanks a lot for sharing!

Greetings,
Achim

Egypt - Western Desert closed for tourists
 

Seems like Oasis Circuit not an option anymore:

Egypt's Western Desert tours suspended till Oct 21 - ETAA - News - Aswat Masriya

Unclear how to read this statement: "Tours in the White Desert will resume on October 22, but staying overnight in camps or hotels will be prohibited"

Egypt Gilf Kebir
 

I came just back from another great trip through the Western Desert.
No problems at all, in the Gilf Kebir region, Wadi Addax, where we had seen hunters before,
we met a single libyan pickup which preferred to disappear as fast as possible.
The checkpoints have been « upgraded » and everybody wears now bullet proof jackets.
On the oasis road we met twice armed patrols.
Best
Ursula

It sounds like they are gearing up to ... welcome tourism? !!!
Good to hear that you are back in one piece Ursula- looking forward to your photos:D

thanks Bertrand !


Thats how the checkpoint near Farafra looked like last week


http://up.picr.de/19700464ra.jpg

Jebel Uweinat
 

Some good news among a generally bleak outlook, we have just returned from a smooth & hassle-free trip to Jebel Uweinat organized from Sudan. No issues with permits, no escort, it felt almost like the good old days. On a positive note it appears that the Sudanese army is in effective control of the NW, we met mobile military units several times (including a new permanent checkpoint near the mountain itself), all encounters were in good spirits. Trip account is in the works.

Another shoot-out in Farafra
 

No sign of the dust settling in Egypt...
6 military personnel killed, 3 injured in attack at Farafra oasis - Daily News Egypt

On a happier note, over the past couple of weeks I managed to complete the account of our November trip to Jebel Uweinat from Sudan:
http://www.fjexpeditions.com/expeditions/past/nov15/nov15.htm


http://www.fjexpeditions.com/expedit...ov15/p7481.jpg

Back to Uweinat
 

This thread is probably a good reflection of the number of visitors to Uweinat these days.

We just returned from another successful, problem and hassle free expedition to Uweinat organised from the Sudan side. None of the permit & escort issues that plagued trips from Egypt (while they were possible), we could freely go as we pleased. Managed to survey a number of remaining white spots on the mountain, trip account will be in the works as soon as I clear remaining backlog.

congratulations for the return
 

I'm glad that everything went well
* I have 2 questions:

1.- It is possible from Sudan monte uweinat to reach the cave of the swimmers without passing the border with Egypt, there is some control or surveillance post in those areas

2.- It is possible to cross to the TChad from the northwest of Sudan, without having to go through Darfur, there is some border post. The last thing I had read was that the border was closed

Thank you,

NO and NO on both counts.

The desert around Uweinat changed very much in the past 5 years. Now there is a contnued Sudanese military presence (with a small camp between Uweinat & Kissu) and also the Egyptians have tight control of their side. With the demonstrated habit of the Egyptian military to shoot first, ask questions later, I would certainly not risk going anywhere within their range.

Further south, the border zone with Chad is still considered a risky no-man's land, with Darfur rebels supplying themselves from Libya via that route with Tibu help. Again highly unadvisable to attempt going anywhere near.

All this academic as you may only go with Sudanese cars (permit regime is fairly relaxed, but firm on this point) and the local drivers well know the consequences should such a thing be attempted.

On the positive note, I know of someone who managed to obtain a Sudanese visa in N'Djamena and make it overland to Khartoum via Abeche and El Fasher, crossing at the official border a couple of months ago. They received a military escort from the border to El Fasher, could freely continue beyond.

ok
 

I thought you could go by car to Mount Uweinat, you have to get a special permit? where?

Really it is good news, if it is possible to cross from Chad to Sudan, do you know if it is improving the situation in Darfur?

Thank you¡¡¡¡

It was always possible to cross from Chad to Sudan. However, Darfur is sadly still risky today.
I traveled in January 2014 throughout Chad (which was very safe) up to Eljunaynah in western Sudan but once there I was strongly advised not to carry on riding and ended up flying with the bike to Khartoum.

Cheers

Jebel Uweinat from Sudan
 

Back from yet another expedition to Uweinat organised from Sudan, all things went pretty smoothly and to plan despite what one reads about in the news. On the ground everything appears normal, only noticeable issue is the fuel shortage, with mile-long queues at gas stations (not affecting tourist vehicles, which may get fuel at special stations with appropriate permits).

All quiet at Uweinat itself, while the gold mining is ongoing a few dozen kilometres to the East of the mountain, Karkur Talh was completely deserted, the most recent tracks seemed to be our own of a year and a half ago.

We managed to sacale the last unclimbed higher area of the mountain, the Northern plateau, with a number of fine new finds. Trip account will be coming in due course once backlog cleared.

Jebel Uweinat - March 2019
 

For all of you with nothing better to do than surf the net while the gobal panic subsides, here is the account of our trip to Jebel Uweinat last year:
March 2019 Expedition to Jebel Uweinat, Sudan


http://fjexpeditions.com/expeditions...ar19/P4173.jpg

Chris - the below article which references yourself implies that it is feasible (but difficult) to visit the Gilf Kebir?

Do you know for a fact if people have visited the Gilf for tourism purposes recently?

https://explorersweb.com/2020/08/06/...and-adventure/

thanks

No I do not but this is Egypt so anything could be possible if you persevere.
But, this it being Egypt, most don't bother anymore.
Even in the good days it took months and overland access is not what it was.

There were another couple of errors in the article; I will get him to clarify the Gilf.

Libyan Desert Master Map

Hi, I was in Bahariya earlier this week and apparently there was a meeting at the start of this month with the government who may be allowing tours to the Gilf Kebir for winter 2022/23 if the current peace in Libya holds up

Emphasis on "may be". I'll believe it when I see it, the convoy system in the Nile valley lasted for 20 years after the Luxor events...

Map of the open areas in the Western Desert 2022
 

Hello
there should be maps with the areas in the Western Desert that will be allowed again for tourists in 2022 .
Does anyone know them and can post them here in the forum?
that would be great
Ursula