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Quick trip report: Western Sahara Libre (Polisario side) and NW Mauri
I've written down some info from our last trip (Feb and March 2017) that could be interesting for adventurers wanting to visit those areas.
->Link to the blog article <- https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cpXj-QPNM...-Maur-2017.png https://s9.mojalbum.com/17370239_181...7/23610575.jpg https://s9.mojalbum.com/17370239_181...7/23610571.jpg https://s9.mojalbum.com/17370239_181...7/23610573.jpg https://s9.mojalbum.com/17370239_181...7/23610576.jpg https://s9.mojalbum.com/17370239_181...7/23610574.jpg https://s9.mojalbum.com/17370239_181...7/23610578.jpg |
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Way to go :thumbup1:
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It's a cool place to go! I have very happy memories climbing all around the plane. Wish I'd had the confidence to camp there....
Brilliant trip report! bier Nick |
MB 308? Olalaaaa :) crazy Slovenians strike it again. Florence of Arabia would definitely name this the trip Of the year! And come think of it - all this because of a guy with a consistent heart ... There are persisten rumours of a road being build between Zouerate and algerian border ... false, I assume?
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We mentioned it to very few people, a friendly army guy at the check point at Ben Amera. He said yeah no problem talk to the local military up North, no worries... Talking to a guide at Bab Sahara he was very concerned with any talk of going near the plane. Said the area was a route for black market fuel moving South from Algeria and other contraband... he said we may get robbed or our vehicles stolen.. To be fair Just was away and it was his number two who was so twitchy. Obviously it's also in a country that either doesn't exist or isn't recognised by most of the world has the largest minefield in the world a few miles to the West. TBH I was a little wary. Probably overly so. But why I'm so interested in other people's experience and knowledge. How do you thing the Polisario army would have reacted to a couple of guys in a couple of 4x4s? Do you feel there is any credence to the rumours of the area having a lawless theft risk? It's a wonderful part of the world which I will return to hopefully with a more relaxed schedule and hopefully a better informed knowledge of the area. I genuinely look forward to learning! Nick |
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From my limited experience (4 trips - 2 solo, 2 in company) I would say zero theft risk.
How the Polisario would act? A lot depends on your behaviour - I think Vrecha succintly described it - worst case scenario: escort you to the nearest command post, where you would have to wait a loooong time for the commander to show up while being served a delicious meal and some tea. Nothing to worry about. However arrogant or nervous behaviour might have different results. But that's true everywhere, right? Smuggling: there are very limited job opportunities in this part of the world - smuggling fuel and subsidized foods from Algeria, and technical stuff the other way is a perfectly legitimate form of self-employment. Never had any problems with that (never had any problems whatsoever). In fact, you're free to join in - the further north you go, the cheaper the petrol. To be honest Polisario once even gave me a few hundred litres of diesel for free (probably to thank our effort in bringing to Tifariti a ton of clothes and school items). Attachment 19323 "Smuggling" CAN be dangerous though Attachment 19315 Attachment 19316 Attachment 19317 This overnight shelter SE of Bir Mogrein took three lives in a cold february night. It seems the unfortunate gasoline dealers tried to warm up with some charcoal inside the hut. Carbon monoxide killed them and then the hut somehow burned down. A candle? There is a whole smuggling village right on the border between Mauri and RASD (dead east of Bir Mogrein) called Lihfera with some interesting architectural landmarks :) Attachment 19318Attachment 19319 I wouldn't go into politics too much, some countries did recognise RASD as a state, but in the face of realpolitik the number of these states is decreasing. Our comrade "Priffe" might find this great, I think it's sad to watch a few hundred thousand Saharawi people make do in the refugee camps in Algeria for more than 4 decades now. In any case most of the blabla about Polisario (terrorism) this and Polisario that (banditism) is just that: blabla. See for yourself, the guy in the funny uniform on the last pic is the eternal president of Polisario, Mohammed Abdelaziz. [ATTACH][ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 19322[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH] |
Here's comrade Priffe chiming in :)
never had anything but lovely times together with the Sahrawi Think they deserve better than to be locked up in desert camps for decades The eternal president died in May, 2016, sorry to bring the bad news Some things may change now with Morocco in the African Union And yes, would love to camp by the AVRO aircraft may happen soon actually, hopefully take care burden, Florence, vrecha and all you desert fools out there |
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Why Morocco must not be allowed to join the African Union the Saharawis are not locked up, in fact they travel a lot (being nomads and such :), mostly between the camps and mauritanian Nouadhibou, half of which they actually own Priffe you too take care, especially when camping at Pelican 16 crash site anytime before december 2017, it's getting really hot up there ... and btw, the picture of eternal Polisario president was taken before his death :) a tip for WS adventurers: approaching the 2.500 kilometres long Morrocan Wall of Shame to an approx. distance of less then 6 km you will be in range of MORIAM gsm signal: if you have a Morrocan sim card you'll be able to call anywhere in the world for free - courtesy of King Mohammed the 6th to his ragtag soldiers defending his "historic lands" come think of it "Kingdom of Morocco" became independent only in 1956 |
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Many thanks for your insight! I genuinely far more relaxed about going back and spending more time wandering! I've learnt to ignore most western views of North Africa, I obviously need to have a little more scepticism of some nationals..... happy memories.... http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h8...psos1wi5fj.jpg Happy travels guys and again, thankyou! |
Something happens with you if you stay long enough in the desert
away from roads, towns, people, media Wind sand sun stars unbroken horizon one week may be enough two should do it three, for sure Your perception of time and space changes and you'll never be the same again |
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C'mon Vrecha gives us some more on this insane trip. You can't be THAT busy?
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a few impressions from the immense NW Mauri highway
Attachment 19463 Attachment 19464 Attachment 19465 Attachment 19466 Attachment 19467 Attachment 19468 Attachment 19469 |
Nice tracks burden
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https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...7166c1dcdb.jpg
Found a bit about the Avro Shackleton AR3, it was re-furbished to flying condition for the SA Air Force Museum, but crash landed in the Sahara desert near the border with Mauritania on 13 July 1994 whilst on a flight to Great Britain to take part in a number of air shows. It suffered a number of engine failures and was forced to land in the dark, without any loss of life to the 19 crew on board. |
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It happened regularly ...
... up to 15 times per day ... ... even on well established pistes ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diFVJ4IVmIE |
Why did I read that? My feet are so itchy now....
Thanks all. |
Does anyone know if it is possible to ride the train back to Nouadhibou with a motorcycle on a flat car? Should I just call your fixer?
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I'm sure it is. It's been done before.
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It is possible.
You can arrange this easily by yourself when there (it's possible you'll have to wait a day or two for a space on a car), but if you are on a tight schedule or if you prefer a fixer anyway, you can call him (of send a FB message, contacts are given at the end of a blog post) and he'll book for you in advance. |
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