Hi,
is ist possible, that we had seen us?? We, three BMW were standing in Rissani at the street. One guy of us had problems with his stomach. A Pan European had shortly stoped, with a second bike. You?

So long

JCB - Really sorry I haven't replied sooner, I've been back a month! Strange, I thought many times while I was away about "reporting back" to this forum, but somehow didn't get round to it till now.

Anyway, had a really great trip - 6000 miles in 15 days, down past Meknes to Erfoud & Merzouga, then over towards Agadir (Dades & Todra on the way) and down the coast to the Mori border.

I don't give up easily, but there really was no way I could make it through to Nouadhibou on the Pan (unless perhaps I shouldhave used a guide and a better route?). Some of the dunes were unavoidable where they encroached right accross the piste, and once the sand was more than perhaps 8-10" deep, I just dug in. And 290kg of bike is not easy to extract on your own! In fact I got badly stuck about 3 times, and felt I was not in a very good predicament at all. I had taken a couple of bottles of water, and thought I'd potter nice 'n steady accross to Nouadhibou in time for lunch and a relaxing afternoon, unfortunately I had not bargained on getting stuck, and the water didn't last very long at all with the amount of effort I was using repeatedly extracting the bike! One time took me over an hour. Still, it's probably taught me a valuable lesson or two. I really do take my hat off to you, getting through on the Wings!

After that, back the same way to Agadir, Paradise Valley (a little disappointing after my other sites), through Tiz n Test and back to Ceuta. I found the big open stretches really exhilarating - the only similar place I've been is in the north of Sweden/Finland/Norway. I also really liked the "frontier" feel of some of the towns like Dakhla, Tan-Tan (in particular), and others.

One thing I was pleasantly surprised about was the _lack_ of crime - I had come to think I was heading into a thieves paradise, but I found the "hosts" to be very honourable and keen to take care of their "guest". Maybe I was lucky, but I expect it was more to do with being mainly in rural areas.

I rode downwards to Gib the whole way from Cherbourg over 2 days, but went back from Santander to Plymmouth, as I facncied a day chilling out before getting back.

Got stopped numerous times by police, but all extremely friendly. Two bike cops pulled me on CBX750's. Discussed the bikes, sat astride, then fired the starter and headed off 200 yards up the road (without asking)! Then his mate did he same!

I did email Chris (Scott) some updated info on the Atlantic Route to do with fuel stops and other things which he said he would put on the "Atlanic Route" page, but for some reason he hasn't used it, although he has updated his page since. Perhaps he lost it, or maybe even threw it in the bin! If he doesn't upload it and anyone wants this let me know. Maybe a little OTT, but I GPS'd all the fuel stops between Gueulmime and the Mori border - there are quite a lot now. Also I am told that they're tarmacing the road all the way accross to Nouadhibou shortly.

All in all a very satisfying trip, and thanks very much particularly to you and PaulJ for you advice and encouragement beforehand. If I hadn't had such positive words from the two of you, I might have ended up going to Switzerland & Austria, which although nice, would not have been quite the same adventure. And to anyone reading this thinking of Morocco? Go for it!!!!!

Only problem is, I'm not sure where to go next - I may try a more "proper" Sahara crossing next year, through the middle on a bike better suited to sand!

Where's your next one?

[This message has been edited by IanC (edited 07 November 2002).]

OH - Sorry for the late reply.

Yes, strangely enough that was me on the Pan. I don't expect there were many other Pans in Risanni that particular morning! The image of your friend on his hands and knees on the gravel at the roadside is very clearly etched into my memory! He looked pretty bad - I hope he was OK afterwards - did you discover what caused it?

I was riding at the time (for a day and a half) with a Frenchman named Hubert on a DR650 who I met on my first night in Morocco at Midelt. We'd just returned from the dunes at Merzouga when we saw you. I don't know what happened to him, as I sent him text messages a few times to which he never replied.

In fact, apart from yourselves and Hubert, I think I only saw one other "real" bike in 10 days in Morocco, apart from police bikes.

Whereabouts in Africa were you going to/from?

[This message has been edited by IanC (edited 08 November 2002).]