South Algeria
 

Hey, all. New to this forum. I'm a pretty experienced traveler and have spent a good deal of time in undeveloped places (e.g., Myanmar, Peru/Bolivian border, etc...). I'd like to think that I can haggle, negotiate, and weasel my way out of sticky situations right up there with the best of them. That said, my next big project is going to be Algeria, and that's a whole different animal.

I want to fly into Tamanrasset and hopefully get as far down south as In-Guezzam. To the best of my knowledge, the security situation has improved in the past few years compared to some other routes I could mention (my initial plan was to cross into Niger from Qatrun, but it's come to my attention that that's absolutely suicidal...I don't even know how I'd get to Qatrun without being taken hostage), so I'm not too worried about being killed. As I understand it, I need a confirmed hotel reservation (easy enough) to have any chance at a visa, but in order to pass roadblocks, I'll need some semblance of a guide. Does anyone have any recommendations? Should I fly into Tam and then figure out transport, or is there someone I should contact beforehand?

Also, if anyone has any updates on that lorry convoy that supposedley leaves Tam every fifteend days for Agadez, I'm all ears :).

-Jonathan

Hi Jonathan, no tourist has done this route for years, far less using local lorries, even though, as you say, local transport continues across the desert. Tourists are not permitted afaik.
The fact that trucks are leaving in convoy (guarded?) suggests things are far from normal.

You will arrive in Algiers to change for Tam and they will say 'where is your escort?'
It is easier (or less difficult) to get a visa from an agency who will drive you around for at least €100 a day. Probably more as a single person.

Why are you going to IGZ - to get to Niger? You will have a visa?
Eventually someone will succeed in trying this, but right now it feels too soon.
You will be crossing busy drugs-arms-people-trafficking lanes to get to Agadez, a regional centre for people-trafficking.

Compared to adjacent places, the security situation was never bad in south Alg. (In Amenas attack was an anomaly - easily to pull off from lawless Libya.)
It's just that the very strict authorities don't want the hassle of conspicuous foreigners knocking about down there, and for some reason Tam wilaya (province) has been much more strict about this than Illizi wilaya to the east (Djanet, etc - open and more interesting for a visit, IMO).
Other recent posts mention things may be lightening up in Tam wilaya - but only for tightly controlled groups, I imagine.

Thanks for the quick reply, Chris.

As it turns out, I have a multiple-entry visa for Niger (I was in Ouagadougou about nine months ago, so I came prepared with visas to Niger and Benin as well in order to see the elephants. The Parc W is pretty cool, and I wish I could've stayed there for more than just a few hours) that has a few more months on it. I'm getting it renewed at Niger's UN mission when I go to visit my family in New York. So I will have a visa for Niger, though I'd be more inclined to fly into Nouadhibou, then overland to Niamey. I understand that Niger is a challenge to get into from the north, but is relatively easy from the West.

It's really my intention to see what there is to see in southern Algeria (you mentioned Djanet as being a nice place to see–any chance of getting to Ghat and back?) and then fly out. If I were to make it to IGZ, then I suppose I wouldn't turn down the opportunity to cross to Assamakka, but I'm certainly not counting on that last part coming to fruition. I know Niger's pretty strict about getting a military escort when coming from up there.

While on the topic of Assamakka, How "not permitted" do you think tourists are? Though I'm not planning on it, I'd like to get your opinion: To cross into Assamakka, would it be a "carton of cigarettes to smooth things over" or would it be a "thrown in jail/deported/turned back" situation?


Any recommendations? I've done some research and very few guides seem to have websites or even emails. Not a surprise at all, but it does mean that I'll have to dig a little deeper to hire someone.

Thanks!

The Djanet region is open to organised tours and well worth a visit, though getting a response to a visa application - even with the correct invitation and all the other boxes ticked - very much depends on your nationality.

In my experience the sort of bribery you describe doesn't work in Algeria as it may do in sub-Saharan Africa or a movie. Down at a tourist level at least, Alg plays by the rules. Assuming you manage to slip your agency escort (landing them in all sorts of trouble and setting things back for others who would follow), you'll courteously be turned back, or more probably be picked up at the gare routiere in Tam.

For some agencies see: https://sahara-overland.com/algeria-3/

Thanks so much! I'm not in the business of putting my guides in hot water nor do I want to create a legal backlog for others. I once bribed an official in Myanmar to let me up past Myitkyina without a permit, I don't want to try that stunt at an Algerian border post :)

I'll plan on flying into Djanet, riding with a guide to Tam, and evaluating the situation while there. Again, I'd like to go with my guide all the way down to IGZ, and if I get let into Niger from there, so be it–but I'll have a return flight booked for when my guide and I inevitably get turned around.

As for the visa, I'll apply in-person at the UN mission in New York. In my opinion and experience, applying in-person usually works better than over mail. The UN missions are usually more generous with their visa issuances than embassies, anyways. At the very least, the staff are usually more tolerable. If I can't get the visa, then, obviously, I'll have to change my plans.

Good to hear you'll be doing it right. Not all countries in Africa are 'African'.
I don't think you'll be allowed to cross the wilaya line from Djanet to Tam.
That once classic route's been closed for years. The agency will know the latest.

Still less chance of getting out of Tam past a checkpoint to IGZ as no one goes down there unless crossing into Niger.

Last time I went with Americans they go their visas comparatively easily and quickly from DC by post. I always apply in-person in the UK - didn't always make any difference. Approval comes from somewhere else.

You don't say? I always assumed that visa approval comes from someone actually in the building.

Oh, well. The folks at the U.N. mission are always more pleasant than the ones at the embassy, so I'll still chalk it up as a win if I go to New York instead of Washington.