northbound
 

Recent message from a Swiss traveller, Federico A

All very well with the border. Officially it is open for tourists.
We arrived 3 days before the start of our visa, mistake on our part. But they very kindly made us an extension for 3 days (55€).
We went to customs where they searched the vehicle quite thoroughly, especially in search of drones and GPS, I use Gaia as a navigator and they are not interested in that.
An interesting issue was that the HZJ78 [TLC Troopcarrier] is considered sensitive material and we need a special authorization from the ministry to enter it, that took some time. Apparently it was the first vehicle of this type to cross the border there. The problem should be solved for the next ones.
We had an escort for about 500m until we left the border. Then in Tindouf the police were waiting for us, they showed us where to buy a SIM card and where to fill the gasoil tank. They accompanied us to the exit of Tindouf. That was all.
ALL THE POLICE AND GENDARMERIE WERE ALWAYS VERY KIND AND HELPED US WHEN WE NEEDED SOMETHING.

PS. According to the guy who sold us the diesel in Bir Moghrein, a little more than a week ago 2 Australians on motorcycles passed from Algeria to Mauritania.
PS. We did Zouerat, Bir Moghrein, Ain Bentili (not really this one showed on map. Another post southwest of this aprx 80 km from the Maroc [PFZ] border), border.
We didn't pass trough Maroc (Western Sahara) [actually Polisario Free Zone, not Mk], always on the Mauritanian side.

A mate is hoping to head southbound on his moto in a week or two.
See below

Looks like vintage Tenere-riding pal Karim has made it to Nouadhibou, having ridden down from Tindouf over 4 days or so.
He got a 10-day visa with a hotel booking, but still got some escort hassle on the road after Abdala (in the end they let him pass).
He said trucks are passed every hour or so.

Successfully crossed from Algeria to Mauritania Nov 2024
 

Experience Report: Tunisia -> Algeria -> Mauritania by Motorcycle
November 2024

Hey everyone, I wanted to share my experience crossing the Algerian-Mauritanian border and traveling through Tunisia, Algeria, and Mauritania on my old African Twin. I’ve put together a quick report with details on visas, routes, border crossings, and a few things I learned along the way. Hope it helps anyone planning a similar trip !


1. Visa Information:

• Algerian Visa:
• Visa Application: I applied for the Algerian visa only in my country of residence, which took about one month to process. It’s important to note that applying for special authorization to travel south requires the request to be sent to Algiers for verification, which could take up to 6 months. Since that wasn’t feasible, I applied for a regular visa instead.
• Visa Distinction: Contrary to what might be expected, there is no distinction between a regular visa and a visa for traveling to the south of Algeria. I just applied for a normal visa and was able to travel all around the country. There is a « visa on arrival » if you go with organised tour those one will be escorted. But it has been arranged before. I didn’t declare my travel to the south and no disctinction where made.

• In my opinion, French or Arabic is a must have.

2. Route and Itinerary:

• My Route:
• Entering Tunisia: I crossed the Tunisian border with ease. I was excepting Algeria to be tough but I was carried along by an officer that facilitated everything was done very quickly. They are generally very welcoming.
• Along the Coast: After entering Tunisia, I followed the coast heading south.
• Heading South: I traveled through Ghardaia, Brezina, Béchar, Taghit, and then arrived in Tindouf.
• Details on the Route:
Tunisia -> Algeria:
• Entering Tunisia was very straightforward. I got insurance at the border for less than 7€ for one month.
• Algeria:
• In Algeria, the administrative process depends on each Wilaya. In Annaba, I tried to make a declaration or a « special authorization » for travelling to the south but they told me it didn’t exist. It turns out you have to just declare yourself in each Wilaya. Ultimately, I never completed the declaration and had no issues, even outside tourist areas. You normally have to declare yourself in each Wilaya. Sometimes the police checkpoint do it for you. Sometimes a simple call to the police is enough. Most of the time I didn’t declare myself and had absolutely no issues.

• Wild camping in the Sahara Desert went smoothly. Sometimes, a simple phone call to the police (made by the host) is enough to ensure safety. Otherwise, no declaration is needed.

• Algeria was really amazing discovery the people are the most generous I never saw. Everyday and everywhere an amazing warm welcoming.


• Roadblocks: Sometimes I was stopped, sometimes not. The checks were generally quick (passport, visa, and driving license were verified). They never asked for insurance. Wait times ranged from 2 to 15 minutes. I encountered no issues at any checkpoints (gendarmerie, military, etc.). Some officers were unaware, but I simply explained that my visa allowed me to travel freely without an escort. Aside from a few waiting times, I was never escorted, and I had no problems at roadblocks or the border.

• No Escort: I traveled freely without an escort within the country. If an escort is required, it is arranged before arrival. The visa is enough to have freedom of travel all across the country without escort

Tindouf (small mistake & 24/7 escort)
• Because of the road construction from Tindouf to Zouerate and the train construction between Béchar and Tindouf. All the hotels were full of Chinese workers. After trying 10+ different hotel I saw the police main station where I stopped to ask for information. They led me to an hotel that had available rooms. Multiples police officer came to visit to have information. They also put me under a 24/7 surveillance with a civilian police escort. They told me it’s for safety but the police was unarmed and civilian with no means of communication expect from their personal cellphones. They were staying in the hotel lobby all night as well. Felt way more like surveillance than protection to me. In my opinion, It was a mistake to go to the police. I only stayed 48h just the time to prepare my departure. I was then escorted by 4 motorcycles and one truck to the end of the city (just fews kilometers) where I was left alone to continue to the Border. The police had no jurisdiction outside of the town so that’s were the escort terminated.


Tindouf -> Mauritania road and border
• There are three roadblocks between Tindouf and the border. A visa is sufficient as authorization for passage (no pass needed). Some of those roadblocks are military checkpoint I just explained that I will cross to Mauritania they checked my passeport I explained I have the authorisation through the visa and that I’m able to exit to Mauritania and they let me go after fews minutes.

They have a lot of influencers from Algeria doing TikTok or so. Generally they were thinking that I’m promoting Algerian tourism so they were very happy to see a foreigner. Never got a suspicious remark from anyone.

• Algerian Side: The Algerian border is large, with many officials (25+ customs/police officers to handle my case). The total time to exit Algeria: about 1 hour (visa verification and TPD completion).

• Mauritanian Side: The Mauritanian border is much more relaxed (only 5 people working there). The atmosphere was calm, with one officer sitting on a mat drinking tea. The visa cost 55€ (the passavant was supposed to be 10€, but I paid my remaining dinars, about 900 DZD). Took lot of time they just sit around and do nothing no problem appart from the waiting time.

Mauritania (Tindouf -> Zouerate):
• Tracks: There are several possible tracks between Tindouf and Zouerate. Ask truck drivers as they are familiar with the routes on Maps.me. You can export their GPX file from their phone they mark a point on their application every kilometer.
There’s a new 50 km track from Tindouf, which then connects to two main tracks. Be aware that each countries’s truck driver uses their own path in the deserts. (Algerian, Saharoui and Mauritanian uses their own roads accros the desert)

• The Mauritanian track is awful till Ain Ben Tili with a very degraded and sandy track. The good point is that there is no trucks crossing through SADR anymore so you’ll find some company along the way 3-5 trucks a day.

• Difficult Track: Passing through the SADR (Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic) is possible, but not recommended. Up to Ain Ben Tili, fuel availability (especially for motorcycles) is uncertain. In Ain Ben Tili you have a small shop, diesel available and I was able to found fuel after some tough négociations.

Ain Ben Tili -> Bir Moghrein:
• The route doesn’t follow Google Maps or Maps.me, as Sahrawi trucks take a more northern route following the telephone antennas.
• There are two GPS points for the antennas, with tents selling supplies to the north.

Bir Moghrein -> Zouerate:
• In Bir Moghrein, black market fuel (0.9 to 1€/L) is available near the edge of town heading toward Zouerate.

3. Precautions and Warnings:

• Security in the Region: Be vigilant, as there have been Moroccan drone bombings targeting trucks in the area. Stay alert and informed about the local situation.

4. GPS point of interest :

Ain Ben Tili :
Main Shop and Diesel
(25.8760599, -9.5486986)

Second smaller shop with unleaded Fuel
(25.8716797, -9.5205224)

Ain Ben Tili - Bir Moghrein
I took a northern track that the one on google Maps following Cellular Antennas with small tents that have water and some small supplies. This is the track taken by Saharouis

2 points with Antenna and water :
(25.8959567, -9.9885819)
(25.7933392, -10.2820380)

Antenna and small village (south of G maps road)
(25.3542475, -10.7264553)

Antenna with small shop
(25.2004636, -11.1194177)

Hope this was helpful I’ll will stay on this thread so I can provide more information if you have any questions.

Thanks a lot,
Peace

Great report SwissR. Just what was needed.
I assume you are on a moto and the piste was easy enough?

Did you use hotel booking for visa app, or not needed for Swiss?

fyi, you did not enter the 'Grand Sud' region (more of less south of In Salah) where escort travel can be more difficult to dodge.
Staying north, as you did, avoids this.

I did not know about 2 different visas - just an additional permit required for the south. Anyway; it worked for you.

I think the VoA is only at airports right now. We just went through the process.
Send visa form to agency > they send to Tourism Ministry > an authorisation is issued with a QR > you pay ~ ¢100 on arrival (depends on duration of stay). We find out tomorrow.

Also, afaik Moroccan drone bombings only occur inside SADR territory (usually north sector), hence no pushback (that we hear about) and why tourists are advised to avoid.
Bombing transport in Mauritania just for being transport, would be going too far.

Great write up. Very inspiring. Thanxalot.

More than 24840 people exited Algeria through that border crossing in 2024 (Algerians and foreigners).

Wrong moroccans did hit in the top north of Mauritania ... but since the berm goes inside that part in mauritania the rogue state of morocco probably thinks its theirs.

Mauritania didn't say anything though, they just increased tariffs on moroccan goods.

Questions answers
 

I assume you are on a moto and the piste was easy enough?
I’ve a RD04 Africa Twin, the road was pretty though especially with the fact that I was carrying 30L of fuel and 30L of water on top of my luggage. I took me 3 days to join Ain Ben Tili and 2 more days to reach Bir Moghrein. I did took my time to also enjoy the road in the desert.
I was alone note that any injuries or problem with vehicle can result to death.
The season was nice because the temperature were between 10°C-35°C

Did you use hotel booking for visa app, or not needed for Swiss?
I was lucky enough to had an invitation letter the embassy told me a hotel booking can also do they also told me how to do a dummy one :thumbup1:

, you did not enter the 'Grand Sud' region (more of less south of In Salah) where escort travel can be more difficult to dodge.
Staying north, as you did, avoids this.

See this link all thoses Wilaya are considered « Grand Sud »

https://www.algerie.cz/index.php/fr/...d/453-visa-sud

La programme touriistique proposé par les agences agréées doit comporter au minimum une des Wilayas suivantes: Adrar, Laghouat, Biskra, Bechar, Tamanrasset, Djelfa, Msila, Ouargla, El-Bayad, Illizi, Tindouf, El oued, Naâma, Ghardaia, Timimoune, Bordj Badji Mokhtar, Ouled Djalel, Béni Abbès, Ain Salah Ain Guezzam, Touggourt, Djanet, El M'Ghair, El Menia.



Also, afaik Moroccan drone bombings only occur inside SADR territory (usually north sector), hence no pushback (that we hear about) and why tourists are advised to avoid.
Bombing transport in Mauritania just for being transport, would be going too far.

They was apparently a very recent bombing of an SUV carrying a family. I was very discouraged to try and cross the limit. Even Saharoui trucks are now avoiding the area and are never crossing by Bir Lehlou. I know it’s possible to go there I even meet a «Spanish-Saharoui » that do tourism tour from Mauritania inside SADR - I met him at the shop fuel of Ain Ben Tili. I would though very discourage you to do that.


Some more precision :
- there is the new road on construction from Tindouf to Zouerate there is apprently advanced post in the desert at different point after the border but I took a different track. It seems that the new road will not pass through Bir Moghrein but I have no certain information about this.
- take a mirror or flare as way of being recognise by a passing truck. (Some are passing fews kilometres away from your position and you might not be seen)
- I’m certainly missing information now I will continue to answer your questions.


About the e-visa at the border Tindouf-Zouerate the Mauritanian side
Maurtiania border had the computer and connected to the normal system of Mauritania I also got my visa printed and stick in the passeport as usual the system is the same and connected so I think the e-visa will work as well.

They were just missing the stamp for the vehicle so they write the information directly in the passeport that cause no issue.

Thanks,

"Le Grand Sud"
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...a_argelino.png
It is theoretically all of Algerian Sahara, and thus 90% of the country,
But mentally and formally and escort-wise there is a difference between
Ghardaia, Ouargla and Illizi.
When we self drove we got as far as Illizi. There we hit a wall. The chief of police himself came out to the roundabout. I argued against an escort and said we were doing fine.
This made him upset and he raised his voice. "ICI C'EST LE GRAND SUD!!!"
I would also think south of In Salah as Le Grand Sud.

Interesting. I found in 2023 that there was certainly is a big mental difference for Algerians from the north between that and the south of the country.

My favourite moment was, on the return trip north after two months of pistes in Le Grand Sud, when a southbound group of Algerian tourists from the north disembarked from their coach outside the restaurant I was at in In Amguel, and tried their best to impart to me how dangerous the desert was outside of the north with all the (admittedly well meaning) usual statements and preconceptions of people who obviously hadn't really spent time there.

FWIW I think Chris's original comment was more geared towards the reality that the best of Algeria's desert sights in Le Grand Sud are the Ahagger and T'Assili - and therefore these are the areas most likely to be more strigently policed by the gendarmes. The Tindouf route steers well clear of those.

For us algerians there is a distinction between les portes du desert (Desert gates) like Laghouat, Bousaada ... etc, le SUD (south) which technically starts around Ghardaia Bechar, Oued souf ... etc and le Grand Sud which is after that and includes Tamanrasset, Illizi, Bordj Badji Mokhtar

Tindouf Route
 

With more travellers passing this way I've made a page with a map and will keep it updated with news from here and elsewhere.

Tindouf Route

https://sahara-overland.com/wp-conte...shelmappi1.jpg

https://sahara-overland.com/wp-conte.../01/ktind1.png

Tunisia - Djanet - Tindouf
 

After taking lots of info from you all, this is an account of our journey from Tunisia into Algeria - Djanet & Tamanrasset - and on to Mauritania via Tindouf in a Land Rover Defender. We are Ian & Sarah aroundtheworldin-definitely.com, both Brits but lived in Oz for 25 years before full-time travel.

We received a 30 visa from London Consulate after providing all requested documents plus hotel reservations in the north for 28 days. Nefta/Taleb Larbi crossing was our plan but down in Douz we were hearing reports that no foreigners were being allowed to cross without an invitation from a travel agency and accompanying 15 day VOA. There was also a couple of reports that if crossing was denied the officials were stamping passports with 'rejected' which could potentially cause problems at the main border. We were also unsure about the other borders as it seemed they were not allowing consulate visas in either.

Our crossing at Oum Taboul was relatively easy despite the usual confusion about where to go and what to do re fische etc. There was no vehicle search, didn't even open the rear door and the only item we were asked about was walkie-talkies. We brought in drone, sat. phone and binoculars, all hidden within front seats. It took us about 2.5 hours and would have been less than an hour had we understood the process.

Heading south, the first check-point to pull us over was 50km about Tebessa. Just checked passports and TIP and waved us through. Continuing to El Oued we passed through half a dozen checkpoints either unmanned or where the guards were occupied with other vehicles. To Hassi Messouad first couple of CPs were pre-occupied and the one at the entrance to the town was too slow out of his booth and we drove through. CP outside HM took about 30 minutes. We told the guard that we would stick close to the trucks and also that we had a guide waiting for us in Djanet (not strictly true but we had contacted Abdellah by WhatsApp and told him we would organise tour of Tadrart and Tassili Plateau if we managed to get to Djanet.

No more CPs until close to Bjord Omar Driss where we were held up for an hour but the concern was more about the approaching sandstorm than our journey further south. Our passports were taken and the guard insisted that we stayed the night. We ran into a Swiss guy with own vehicle plus guide and cook in another vehicle. He had15-day VOA and despite guide waiting at Taleb Larbi it had taken him 6 hours to cross with thorough vehicle check. Passports were handed back the following morning, no problem. No issues to Djanet. CP's seemed to be expecting us.

Once past Ilizi, you are in the park and could probably do your own thing but as soon as you appear in Djanet the police are watching your every move. Tadrart would be more difficult as there are fully armed National Guard camps set up within the desert and even though the guide had permit they gave him a hard time.

Tried to arrange guide for travel to Tamanrasset but permit for the guide was denied and we were told to go on our own??? No checks, no issues. No police presence in Tamanrasset that we saw but permits to go up Azakrem taking 72 hrs so didn't bother and headed north.

All good until 130km south of In Salah. Held up by gendarmes, ended up sleeping at checkpoint. Allowed to continue in morning but from In Salah we were forced to have escorts up to Beni Abbes and the police were notified we were in town. Speaking to the police it seems that independent travel on east side is much easier than on west. Couple of free hours driving following day and then escorted through to hotel in Tindouf. Not allowed to leave hotel and were picked up by police next morning and taken 80km to border.

Border crossing straightforward, thorough vehicle check on Algerian side. Slow on Mauritanian side - make sure you have evisa as I don't think they were issuing VOA's.

We were asked to avoid Western Sahara and follow the border line but there were tracks everywhere and you could probably cut the corner off without problem. Desert station at Ain Ben Tili but didn't stop so don't know about fuel. No diesel or petrol at Bir Moghrein but plenty at Zouerate. Beautiful desert crossing - not many vehicles once you start heading west but enough to get you out of a jam.

Thanks to Ed for all his thorough and accurate info and also to swissrider862 for GPS waypoints. We had a lot of laughs looking for the next antennae!

Great report, be great to see it posted in this group on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1164887180341870/

I read recently on https://en.yabiladi.com/articles/details/159643… (Moroccan outlet afaict, so biased) that Mk is expediting a road from Smara through the berm to RIM (only ~200km to Bir Mog) to pull the rug on Algeria's ambitious Tindouf project.
https://www.yabiladi.com/articles/de...e-reliant.html
You'd think it would have to cross PFZ territory, but Mk had the foresight to cut the berm across the remote corner of RIM, most probably to cut PFZ in two. (Not all maps show this, not least MINURSO, but you can see it on sat imagery.)

https://static.yabiladi.com/files/ar...thumb_565.jpeg

It would be galling for Algeria to have the long road it's financing intercepted by a short fork nipping off to Smara.

There’s already a wide track south to this spot right on the RIM border.