Travelling in Mauritania
 

Hello
New here and new to travel so far.
Question to You experinced travellers:
1. Is it a problem travelling alone in a 4x4 vehicle (security and so)?
2. On the more remote sections (ex Atar-Tidjikja-Tichit), is it easy to meet other people (cars) to travel along with? Planning going 3-4 weeks some time in the period November-February.
3. Which time of year is it more easily to find someone to travel with for the remote sections?

Regards
Grove

I've only spent a month in Mauritania so someone can probably give you a fuller answer, but I wouldn't hesitate for a second on security concerns.

As for meeting other people to travel with, on the route you mention, in January this year, we passed about 15 tourist cars in 2 days. Not exactly busy, but then not exactly lonely either. There were even nomads selling coca cola by the piste...!

I'm sure it would be easy to hook up with someone that time of year, although you would have to allow time to wait.

Hi Grove
I agree with Richard K, I never felt security was a problem in Mori; but trust no one, nowhere, even back home!
Police check points, both official and unofficial, may demand small 'fees' regularly, and you accept this as part of the deal.
My trip was a while back, but the report here may be of interest: http://www.kitmax.com/kit12travels_0...htm#chinguetti
There were a few travellers around in Atar but none that I wanted to travel with... Wanked out cars and inexperienced drivers!
But the odd local truck is always worth befriending.
Take your time and you'll have no trouble.
Kitmax
www.kitmax.com

Hi Grove, I had been in Mauritania on June 2004:

1. We travelled 5 vehicles and never felt any danger with local people or police.

2. We didn´t make that part of Mauritania, from Atar we went to Chinguetti and Ouadane, then to Nouakchott and we did encounter other vehicles on route.

3. Havig that much time to be there I guess you won´t have too many difficulties in finding someone to share the route.

Good luck and nice trip,
Jorge

www.expedicionesfennec.com

Hello Grove,

1. I don't know if you mean: one car solo, or even going solo in a car ?
Traveling solo always has some dangers depending on the terrain, distance and certainly your skills and preparation (which doesn't really matter if you stick to the tarmac). If you mean the riscs of getting robbed.... read the other posts. We certainly never felt insecure in Mauri.

2. Finding the right companion can take some time ( right companion = people you still can talk with after a stressfull day, who don't mind your strange habits and skills and are fun to see early the next morning).
When you want to go Atar-Tidjikja there is always some traffic going back and forth (not much!),
Tidjikja-Tichit is more or less the same.
If you want to go from Tichit to Oualata/Nema it's a different story, not much traffic (no locals) only sometimes a organised tour or a group.
It took us about 2 weeks to find other people to travel with us from Atar to Nema, time we well spend exploring the region of Atar and getting used with travelling in the dessert and driving in dunes. We arrived in Atar (BabSahara) spread the word and made some nice trips of about 3-4 days returning to Atar using the campsite as a base.
Because you're on a schedule I would advise to try to get in contact with others upfront (thru the hubb) or try to get in contact with BabSahara in Atar. If you cannot find company to team up with (or you don't trust their skills) you can always hire a guide to come along with you or the whole group for the whole trip or only one of the streches you planned. When you don't like this idea maybe skip Tidjikja, explore the Adrar, interresting history, beautifull scenery and every sort of desert/mountain you can imagine, big enough to spend your 3-4 weeks without getting bored.

3. Oct - March is the best time to visit the Adrar region, in April it gets rather hot so you wouldn't find much more travellers or tourists. (10th of April 44° in the shade), you can coop with that but you have to change your pace (difficult when you're on a tight schedule).

Prepare well but don't forget to enjoy.

Hi,


2 - Concerning the remote areas do no to go with only a single car. Between Atar and Tidjikja there are bush taxis operating, but traffic will be most irregular.
Between Tichitt and Oualata there are no bush taxis and tourists will be also very irregular. Thus, I would suggest for these routes to go with a guide (in its own vehicle) or to team up with other turists.


As for safety, no problems! Just be a little bit more carefull around the Nema area. Its a bit dodgy down there.

Cheers,
José

Atar ---> Tidjikja + Tichit--->Oualata
 

Hi José

I'm interested by your reply about these 2 routes : Do yo think I can do these routes with only one car (4x4) but with a guide ?
What a guide can do if the car is out of order ?
I'm planning this trip with my own car this winter , so thank you for your reply .
RR.

Hi,


These routes can be done with a single vehicle. The terrain is mostly sandy but there are no big dunes to actually cross. For instance the route from Tidjikja to Tichitt is relatively easy, it is marked almost all the way with red/white sticks.

However, I do not suggest a single veichle to do it alone due to the remoteness of these pists, especially the connection between Tichitt and Oualata. If you happen to have a breakdown in this area, then you'll be in big troubles. There are no bush taxis running this connection, and turists will be irregular (I would not count on other turists to save me from a breakdown in this area!!).

The guide is only usefull if he travels in another car. Navigation is more or less straightforward, except for an Akhle field after the Aratane wells. If you have experience in desert driving and navigation, then it is no big deal. But if you feel unsure, then hiring a guide in Tidjikja (with a car) is the best solution.

Cheers,
José

Thank You All for Your kind and usefull reply .
I will probably go solo in one car:rolleyes2:
I will not go from Tichit to Oualata/Nema.
The possibility of hire a guide is fine.
roro, maybe we should go together on the remote sections?

Regards
Grove

[QUOTE=kitmax]Hi Grove
IPolice check points, both official and unofficial, may demand small 'fees' regularly, and you accept this as part of the deal.

don't just accept it!! The more you accept it the more they are encouraged to do it and the more difficult it becomes for the travellers that follow you. Avoid paying unofficial fees if at all possible, unless the guy has been genuinly helpful beyond the call of duty. if unavoidable barter it down as much as possible.

Don't make a rod for other travellers backs, not all travellers can afford to be constantly handing out 'cadeux' to every person that asks

Andy
TLC H60
Landy 101 ambie/camper
1968 morris minor traveller
www.plymouth-dakar.com
.

Here Here....
 

Well said Andy !!!

If a few people pay or give gifts to officials it becomes expected for all...I personally travel on a budget.....

However, if someone does something or works for you then thats different.

......I did enjoy being in Mauritania after Christmas - when asked for cadeux - I would reply to the officials....... 'Noel a Fini'.......

In response to the main post, we hooked up with some guys in Noadhibou for the leg out to Atar and then Tidjikja, theres normally a few people around there and as is mentioned at BabSahara.
The Dutch guy who runs bab will give you his satellite phone number (if you have one) should you have any problems - (though you should travel with other vehicles IMO) and will help for a price.

Cheers
Grif

NO to cadeaux
 

Just to add to what Grif and Andy have said.

Apart from the fact that it adds up to a lot of cash (there are a lot of police checkpoints) it's bad for the country and feeds corruption. A friendly and polite NO normally works fine, we always left checkpoints on good terms and with wallets intact.

Mauritania is one long line of outstretched hands and "donnez-moi's" as result of indiscriminate bonbon, stylo and Oug spewing tourists and rallyists. It doesn't help anyone.

Reward help and hospitality (uniformed or otherwise), spend your money in small shops and hire the odd guide here and there. Don't treat people like you'd throw bread at ducks in the pond.

Rant over ; )

Tidjikja + Tichit--->Oualata ( or reverse)
 

Hi Grove

"roro, maybe we should go together on the remote sections?"

Why not !
I don't know now the timing of my trip , I have 2 options :
- Coming from Niger in November with 2 people in another car
- Going to Mali in March 2007 , but with only one car .
I'm waiting for the decision of the 2 other travellers ( the "another" car )

RR.

I will try not to give "cadeux" at checkpoints.
roro: My plan is to travel from Europe-Morocco-Mauritania and back again.
Places want to see so far: Nouadhibou
Ben Amera
Choum
Atar
Chinguetti
Tidjikja
Tichit
Matmata


Grove (Land Rover Defender 110 2003, yes a td5)

Ditto!

Paying for special service is one thing, such as an offical that has to be fetched from home to do your paperwork etc, but forking over money otherwise at the endless numbers of police/military checkpoints just reinforces the evil circle of corruption in Africa...

Atar ---> Tidjikja and Tidjika--->Oualata
 

Can somebody tell me how many days is necessary for these two stretches ?
I know it depends of the driver and the car , but I want to know these durations , driving 5 or 6 hours a day and not at maximum speed .
Thanks for your replies .
To Grove : I'll recontact you when I'll be sure about my timing .
RR.

Alternative
 

On the subject of cadeaux, you can always say that your friends are coming up later in another 4wd (be unspecific I suppose), and will pay them double!

Tee hee hee!

Sam.

so that was you was it, git!!!!!!

Atar-Tidjika: 4 days i relaxed tempo according to Chris Scott (the book)
Tidjika-Nema (passing Oualata): 8 days.
Grove

Hi,

The above mentioned time contemplates relaxed visits to Rachid, Tichitt, Oualata and several attractions along the pistes (guelbs, crater, rock engravings).
If you're in a worry, Atar-Tidj can be done in 3 days and Tidj-Nema can be done in 5 to 6 days. The Dakar guys do Tid-Nema in just one day ;-)

Outstanding pistes, especially the Tidj-Nema!

Cheers,
José

gone with the wind
 

Hi !

1- RIM traveling alone shouldn't be a problem, however if you are off-piste or very remote places, if something goes really wrong it can become pretty delicate. In the other hand traveling in remote places 1 car solo gives you a much more intimate feeling with the place, you feel you are very very small and you can also feel you are very big.

2- We did Tidjikja - Chingetti in five easy beautiful days, buying goats on the way and and using the S2 land rover grille as a grill. We meet about 6 vehicles, mostly other tourist. Beware of the small misprinting regarding coordinates in that route in Sahara Overland, it can be very confusing and unexpected.
Why running if you don't really know where you going.
--thanks José B for your help--

-Tidjikja - Tichitt in 1 long day (we had to follow a TLC) and 2 days in the way back. Very few traffic. We wanted to to continue to Nema but after a while came back to Tichitt, since it was a bit too much for our overloaded old landrover. Too bad, since it was fascinating. Next time !

If I had a defender 110 td5 in order -and the basics for that route- I'd not doubt going single car until Nema. Nowadays we have synthetic guerbas and Thurayas !

Take it easy ! Good luck !

Thanks to everybody for your infos ......

RR.

>>>>Beware of the small misprinting regarding coordinates in that route in Sahara Overland, it can be very confusing and unexpected.

fyi these errors (along with other corrections) have been corrected in the first reprint sold since last December.

Updates page is here:
http://www.sahara-overland.com/typos/

Chris S

Mauritania
 

Hi,
I did more or less exactly the same route - two of us two KTM 640s. Actually for the frist month we didn;t meet a single other traveller on the pistes down through Morocco. The frist other travellers we met were in Nouadhibou. Then we cross to Choum, Atar, did a circuitu around the Crater (6 days), back to Atar, down to Tidjikia and then due south to the Senegal River (crossed in big canoes at Bogue to Senegal.

We didn't get ripped off or asked for gifts anywhere in Mauritania, had T with several groups of soldiers and police on the way and actually I felt safer there than anywhere I've been really... that was, until near the Senegal border where things got a bit mroe tricky and felt a bit more hostile. Getting across the Senegal River was a real challlenge and ended in a huge village row with various local boat owners, Mauritanian and Senegelses police arguing about who had the right to charge us or demand cadeaux.... quite funny in retrospect but not at the time.

I was suprised how remote a lot of the route felt. Atar to Tidjikia in particular was very quiet and I think in the six days this took us we saw maybe four other tourist vehicles and a few camels... that was it ! So although in theory this is not a really difficult route it was pretty remote and if we had had mechanical probs or run our fuel (fuel is a real problem on that route for unsupported bikes) we would have been up the creek ! Absoluetly spectacular though. Can't wait to go back !

Anyway, if it is any help I have all the routes I did in my GPS memory still so I could forward the track if anybody wants it.

enjoy !

Simon

Mauritanian visa at border post
 

Hi,
If I'm coming from Mali , can I get the visa at any border post ?
At approximatevely same cost than coming from Morocco ?
Thanks for your reply .
RR.

i dont see the reason to tip the police
 

they are just doing some paper checking. if you have all the paper, why u have to give the gift. i can say almost all Mauritanian gendemarie or military on road checkpoints are quite friendly to foreigner.

Hi Simon,

I'm planning more or less the same trip for the next month
or so. Your track log could be very useful to me, would
you send it, please ?

Thanks
Mario

Hi nomiskx
I would too be interested in Your track log

Grove

Mauritania
 

Hi all,

We had a slight difficulty with customs on the border of Mauritania and Morocco as they wanted a 10 Euro import tax for our car. When I asked for a reciept they got really upset. I did have a Carnet which they weren't happy about.

We then had a policy of not giving any gifts, we got stopped every few miles and they said , "Nice mobile phone." I agreed, smiled, shook some hands and carried on pleading poverty (Which was true).

We never felt threatened in Mauritania, the people were great. Always trying to be as helpful as possible and even giving us directions etc. I wouldn't venture into the desert without a GPS (Car) and a back up one (Handheld). However, I wouldn't every say we felt alone.

We pulled off the new desert road and drove about 2km to park up for dinner and while we sat having some soup a nomad came walking by and we shared some food with him. He was very grateful. So it was almost impossible to be alone. Even while going for a wee someone woudl walk by.

However, we stuck mainly to recognised roads and routes as it was out first time in the Desert.

Andy

P.S. It rained and rained in Janaury of this year. I am trying to organise going back in early 2008. I suspect I will not be able to get 7 weeks free before then.