F800GS (2011) Fuelpump in Russia / Barnaul
 

Hi,
anybody knows where to get a fuel pump for the latest F800GS in the Barnaul region? I'm experiencing occasional problems with the thrust when the tank is halfway empty in addition to higher temperatures (above 35° Celsius).
After some research it looks like the fuel pump causes the problem. Anybody knows where to get a replacement or repair?

Thanks,

Alex

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Some have mentioned that the pump itself is fairly generic, so your odds of finding an auto replacement are usually better. Can't comment on the availability of parts in your region, but here is one riders experience in sourcing an alternative.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...0-twin-50146-4

One of his comments:

"the fuel pump appears to be VERY common. one of the bikers here (R6 & AT) took me to the "new parts" section of town. in the first shop they had a pump made in PRC from vehicle unknown for 80 sudanese pounds (about $30USD) and a hyundai accent made in s korea for 170 pounds. went with the hyundai. second shop had a generic brand from korea for 160 pounds. all look pretty much the same as the bosch from the bmw.

Good luck. If you require additional troubleshooting tips, another user forum to try would be the one below.

F800GS & F650GS Twin Discussion

A very good moto mechanic in Barnaul with his own 'any bike' business/workshop is Viktor (Виктор). He is a leading biker in that city.
http://motoxayc22.ru/index/0-4
Viktor is the fourth name/telephone number on this page.

Like all good Russian mechanics, he improvises and fixes things - sooner than 'replace'. But when it comes to 'replace' he will know the best options, alternatives, accessability and availability.

Thanks MountainMan, very useful information. I will consider this when I am sure that the pump itself is the problem.

I tried Victor today (saw your recommandations in previous threads), but unfortunately he is somewhere in the Altai again. So no luck there.

Did you sort it out? How did you resolve the problem in the end? Is this the sort of problem that a fuel pump bypass cable may have fixed?

Seems there is something to be said for a gravity fed carburettor after all. Although my next bike is likely to be EFI

It may be a long shot but I recall reading on another forum of someone experiencing similar symptons with an 800 GS. The problem was traced to a blocked fuel tank breather pipe!
When the symptons occur, park up and open the fuel tank cap, if you can hear air "sucking" then possibly the breather hose is blocked
good luck
K

Since they do have moving parts in them, fuel pumps should be considered wear items. The F800GS/F650GS twin ones seem to be somewhat fragile, too, especially if they have to deal with Ethanol.

If anybody is stuck somewhere with a broken pump get in touch with me, I have a new spare that I would sell at a very fair price.

Lukas

Cheers. So is it worth carrying a fuel pump bypass cable? Is 'controller' failure that common on the F800GS?

While I wouldn't say that it's very common, I know of more than one traveler that had a failure of the FPC. The cable or even a second FPC are small and light enough that I would include them in a spares kit.

Good to know, thanks. The fuel pump controller bypass cable is a bit cheaper than the actual fuel pump controller unit as I recall so I think I'll go with that. I wonder how failure of fuel pump unit v fuel pump controller compares? Seems the controller is more often than not the culprit. I think it's definitely worth taking a fuel pump controller bypass cable (or fuel pump controller) and maybe even a fuel pump unit itself if one can be found cheaply enough? Time to start looking...

Fuel pump issue
 

a bit out of date but just back from 17 days in southern africa on a F800 GS. We had fuel pump issues, solved by replacing the OEM with an identical and much cheaper one from a Toyota Corolla. The issue seems to be the thermostat in the BMW one cuts out at consistently high temps. The Corolla does not have a thermostat. Have seen the ads for the bypass kit but for £30 the Toyota one was a dream. BMW dealers seem to be unaware of this issue which has been flagged on various sites.

I had problems on my solo Mongolia & Siberia trip this year, lost power for a second on multiple occasions. Took it to BMW in Germany who put it on the diagnostic and, just like my dealer, could not find a fault. It did it mostly in Europe on my way east, when it was hot weather. It wasn't a show stopper, I gritted my teeth and went for it, but it is frustrating and a little disconcerting when your in the middle of nowhere. I'm convinced its a fuel pump/controller issue. I want to swap it out but who knows if your putting in another dodgy BMW pump, and they're so expensive new. And of course used ones are rare and I question the reliability of these too.

Will defo look into the Toyota Corolla fuel pump replacement. Do you have any more info on the model, year, part number and price of the Toyota Corolla fuel pump?

Cheers

Overheated fuel = blocked fuel filter on EFI
 

A 'common problem' on K75/100 and K1100s has been the fuel filter being blocked (usually water and dirt).

It presents it self as bad running, when the fuel level is low and high temperatures (both ambient and engine). If you stop and wait for it to cool the problem goes away until the fuel heats up again. Or you refill the tank (fresh fuel is cooler, and more fuel gives a larger surface area to get rid of the heat). Feel the fuel temperature if you can - or look at the fuel pump in the tank - people report seeing the fuel boil :helpsmilie:around the pump.

It should be less of a problem with CAN buss controlled fuel pumps as they won't be running flat out all the time (some 60 watts :( ) but if you are running hard you could end up with the same kind of problem.

Message - check the filter before spending big on a new pump. If there is 'no filter' look for wire gauze on the pump itself.

============================
If stuck with a failed fuel pump - go to a car wreckers and get a EFI fuel pump ... while it may not 'fit' in exactly the same way .. it should work ... if not try a different car for its pump ... you should be able to find one good enough to continue.

Interesting, it did always seem to be when the fuel was low. I'll look into this possibility too.

Hi there, I though I would chip in. I've been around Africa, 75'000 km on the F800GS. I was carrying the FPC bypass cable but never needed it. The only problem I had with fuel, was that a few times when it was hot and with a near-empty tank, the engine would cut off completely. i chased it down to a problem with the venting of the tank: I could hear the air being sucked in when I opened the tank. Then it would start normally.

Eventually I took apart the little gizmo that blocks the venting hole when the bike is not upright, suspecting it could get stuck in the wrong position. It seemed to be ok so I put it back in and since then no problem anymore. Not that it had been very hot either, but so far so good.

Laurent

Fuel Pump
 

I have an F650gs twin, 2009 !!!!
Mine went in Africa after 24000 km, I just pulled it out in Mzuzu Malawi, & took around town to try & by the same one & eventually found a french made one that was exactly the same & has worked ever since.
I did have a thermostat go on the same bike after 12000 km as well.

Bypassing the fuel pump controller (FPC) is extremely easy to do. Unless you are color blind, keep that in mind.
The symptom of the bad FPC is that the bike simply wont start, and no whine from the fuel pump. The bypass requires only a multitool, you use the mole ends (needle nose pliers) to remove the two little T10 screws and pop off the FPC and the knife to bare the wires, and you will need some simple electrical tape or something to isolate the spliced wires.
REMEMBER: If your FPC is grey colored it will likely fail, the new black powdercoated ones supposedly don't.
Once you have removed the T10 screws, they are easy to get with the mole ends of the multi tool if you don't have a torx 10 key.
You will then pop the duff FPC off its base with the useless green gasket which is part of the problem. Look down inside the "well" and you will see a blue connector.
Pinch the the two ears of the blue connector in the "well" together and remove the duff FBC.
You then disconnect it from the black connector at the top.
remove some of the tape shield on the wiring loom to the black connector and you will see 3 wires.
Now is the point of no return.
You then must separate the blue connector from the duff FPC (but keep the duff FPC to make a future short bypass cable and save the money you would spend on the one that is advertised for more than $30, you can easily make one in a few minutes with the old duff FPC).
Ok, now, if you are color blind, you are screwed. You will see the black connector has three wires colored blue/red, brown, and blue/green.
Forget about the blue/red, just leave it alone.
Carefully bare a small loop of the brown wire and a small loop of the blue/green wire to prepare them for the splice.
Next, you will note the blue connector has a blue wire and a yellow wire.
Bare the ends of both.
Next, splice the blue wire into the brown wire and tape it up so now copper wire is exposed.
Then, splice the yellow wire into the blue green wire and tape it up.
Just leave the blue/red wire as is, don't screw around with it.
Start the bike and off you go.
Later, you can gut the duff FPC and connect the female connector to the blue connector you have spliced in place and you have a fuel pump bypass cable which is "plug and play".
Done.
Tim Cullis pioneered the splice method when he was stranded in Morocco or some place with a duff FPC. Thanks, Tim!
I copied this to my smartphone and fixed mine when it went tits up/lights out on me 200kms from my home here in Mexico, way back in a mountain town.
It will get you home.
Now, if it is the fuel pump, that is a different story.

Our 09 F800GS fuel pump failed in Kyrgyzstan last year with very similar symptoms as OP. Although the tank was under vacuum/pressure and would whoosh when the fill cap was opened, leaving the cap open did not seem to address the pump issues. We also bypassed the carbon canister, which did not fix the problem. We were able to find a Bosch branded replacement in Bishkek and swapping that one in did fix the problem so we took a second spare for the road. Our fuel filter (the metal can above the pump, not the mesh bag below it) may have been choked up with the residuals of bad central Asian fuel, however, since then we've ridden another ~20k km on the same filter with no apparent problems from it. So it seems the weakest component is the pump itself and this often first starts showing problems by overheating and cutting off after a hundred or so kms, especially with less fuel in the tank (though I did get it hot enough to fail even after a fresh tank of gas).

For future reference, I posted some more details about possible replacement pumps including the Bosch part that I bought (part # 0 580 453 453), where I bought it in Bishkek, area biker info, etc, here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=18
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=822587

Hope this helps the next rider!