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tajikistan, afghanistan : experiences ???
hello,
welcome to the central asia forum :-) has anyone driven in tajikistan, afghanistan ? any experiences ? thanx for sharing cheers [This message has been edited by vincent danna (edited 25 May 2005).] |
Yes, the Central Asia forum!!!
I am planning on arriving in Central Asia (Turkmenistan) in August and I am also curious about Tajikistan and Afghanistan. My understanding is that the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan is one of the most amazing roads in the world. I met an aid worker from Tajikistan a few months ago who said Tajikistan was perfectly safe to travel, but he was not a motorcyclist. Regarding Afghanistan, he heard from some other NGOs in the area that the route from the Tajikistan border to Kabul may be safe, but that the south and east was still unstable. So getting from Kabul to Peshawar may still be too risky. I would like to confirm the above information (particularily Afghanistan, as my information is hearsay) if anyone knows anything current. I hope the situation is Afghanistan is improving. ------------------ Dave www.mototrekker.com |
i saw this by doing a google search :
http://www.traveltajikistan.com/roadrail/ quite interesting for formalities and roads if you do a google search about riding motorbike in afghanistan, they only talk almost about terrorists riding motorbikes throwing grenades ! |
about travelling in afghanistan : some usefull info, via a google search :
http://www.kabulcaravan.com/ |
Hi Vincent, I stayed with the same family you did in Bukhara when I went through last September. I continued on to Tajikistan and had a great time, the road over the Pamirs is spectacular, although not steep topography as it is a plateau. The approaches, however, on either side of the plateau are steep sided valleys and the road follows the Afghan border for 250km, Afghanistan is literally just across the river.
Don't go in late October like I did or you'll be riding across snow and ice. Facilities are very limited, homestays are the done thing. Check out the Tajikistan chapter of my website for some photos and info. www.hotkey.net.au/~howmans cheers, Sean |
hello
alec (simmo) was here in paris a few days ago, he told me about your trip (very nice!), i had forgotten. how did you feel in tajikistan ? did you feel safe ? are the roads as stunning as people say ? quite easy to travel like in kaz., kirg., ouzbek., turk. ? what do you think about driving in afghanistan ? why didn t you go ? safety visa reasons or just you planned not to go ? cheers nb : i wanted to go to tajik. but double entry visa problem with ouzbek. and kirg. and i wasn t sure about safety; i regret a bit. afghanistan : no visa problem (i had one + UN convoy) but not safe at all; no regret. Any other thoughts or experiences ? |
Hi,
David Berghof (who I'm sure you know about, if not, search the forum) recommended me to drive through Tadjikistan but I didn't have the time. That I take as an input that it should be rather safe. Be aware that a lot of heroin gets shipped out from Afghanistan through Tadjikistan. So I wouldn't go venturing off, ending up in the wrong place at the wrong time. I think some English reportes got into some problems at the border, but then again, they were making a documentary, which might not be so well recieved by the border guards http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif. /Erik |
In summer 2004 we made an extensive trip with our Toyota LandCruiser across Central Asia and China, including Pamir-Highway and Karakorum-Highway. Travel account and many photos showing both highways may be found on http://www.tlc-exped.net/R23Bericht.html
Reinhart ------------------ www.tlc-exped.net/ |
thanx again :
David Berghof : http://stantours.com/ a friend, henri c., plans to drive through central asia very soon (tajik. and afghan. included), he is now in central asia (turkmen. or ouzbek.), and i worry a bit about him ... |
Hello,
Dont be afraid Vincent, I am allright. IMPORTANT FOR TURKMENISTAN: In Lonely planet, they say that you dont need to register at OVIR if you have a transit visa. Which is partly true: it is only if you stay less than 5 days that you don t need to register. That happened to me and the consequence is that I cannot come again in Turkmenistan before 2010!!!!! Anyway, I dont want to come again in that country who is really crazy. Notice also that it is forbidden to sleep in private homes like i did. Question for Tajikistan: If I do the visa in Kirghizistan, do I need a LOI? I just arrive in Khiva, Uzbekistan, and recover from the hard days in Turkmenistan: F...ck His President, The great stupid Neazov. Have nice roads and thank you in advance for your help about Tadjikistan. ------------------ More info? www.electaunavia.org (french) |
I am planning to travel across the pamir highway later this year (refer www.users.bigpond.net.au/AdrianScott)
Does anyone who has crossed the Pamir highway have some advice on how long it might take from the Kyrgyz border to Dushanbe (not racing, but enjoying the journey that is)? Any advice appreciated. Adrian |
Tres Bien Vincent.... a Russia/Stans forum.
Adrian I just got an email from Scott M heading to Vladivostok via Japan soon. I suspect they are finishing the Americas; Let me knpw if you want their email. cheers alec |
Bonjour to you and Vicki. Just read instalment #2 on Kyrgyzstan in Aus bike mag - very nice. Yes please, email address would be helpful.
Adrian |
hi vincent
my wife and I did the pamir loop 2004. No probs concerning the security. The afghans waved across the river. They did NOT shoot at us. We met the austrian Franz Steindl on Pamir Highway. http://www.steindl-net.at A friend of Franz going to Mazar I Sharif and back had no problems. Hi Adrian. Kyrgystan to Dushanbe. Which route are U asking for? We took the Garm Valley in 2004. Took us 3 days to get to Dushanbe Goetz ------------------ ïóòü = öåëü |
I would like to ask some further questions on the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan. We will be entering Turkmenistan in early August and exiting via the Tougart Pass in late October.
Trying to find out the conditions on the Pamir Highway in September, don't want to do the snow & ice in late October like Seanh. When does the road typically get snow and ice, will mid to late September be ok? Also, any comments on the condition of the road, typical travel speeds and fuel availability? We will be travelling two-up on a Honda Transalp with 90/10 (mostly road) type tires. ------------------ Dave www.mototrekker.com |
goetz,
i just remember a post from pietro.spera telling about a colleague biker who got killed early 2003 in afghanistan, just after i decided not to go ... http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000169.html on the "Travellers' Advisories, Safety and Security on the Road" forum, more info, a bit old though ... davidmc, i undertand that other travellers experiences could be more usefull than a link on a website :-), but did you take a close look at the link i mentioned http://www.traveltajikistan.com/roadrail/ (for roads, fuel, weather especially) ? there s a lot of usefull info (i was myself surprised) and i guess if you contact them, they ll be happy to answer you ; same story with afghanistan on http://www.kabulcaravan.com/ [This message has been edited by vincent danna (edited 08 June 2005).] |
Dear Goetz, I am taking the Pamir Highway from Sary Tash to Murgab to Khorog to Dushane (i.e. the main road - M41). I will be there approx. early Sept this year.
Adrian |
Vincent:
I read the same article as well. My opinion: going to Afghanistan is a very personal decison. From what I have heard the afghans are either playing in the Champions League of hospitality. Or U hit the 0,xx % fanatic with your bullet in his gun. David: riding the Pamir Highway is only possible having the Pamir Permit. Which can only be obtained in Dushanbe. As far as I know. David Berghoff told me it´s virtually impossible riding the PH clockwise as you want to do it. Or your first move is Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Dushanbe, Uzbekistan, Kyrgistan and then entering via Sary Tash. The loop Dushanbe heading NE via Garm valley to Sary Tash and then south to Murghab doesn´t work. This border is 2nd grade and not international. Leaving via Torugart? How that Cheers Goetz ------------------ ïóòü = öåëü |
I am getting a GBAO permit from the GreatGame company before I arrive in Tajikistan.
Is this the only reason you suggest the "clockwise" route is not possible? Note, I am entering into Kyrgyzstan (from CHina) via the Irkeshtam Pass. Then to Sary Tash, then south to Tajikistan. Which border crossing exactly is 2nd class? Thanks, Adrian |
Hi Adrian,
having the GBAO in hand, you are absolutely free to make the trip in the sense you are intending to do. A swiss friend of mine will be doing just the same as you in August. In 2002 we got our GBAO directly from SAYOH's Mr. Gafarov in Dushanbe which allowed us to proceed to Murgab and Kirgistan. Newly opened border to China via Murgab is open for local traffic only. Good luck Reinhart ------------------ www.tlc-exped.net/ |
Goetz:
We are planning on doing the Pamir highway counterclockwise, from Dushanbe to Osh. And David Berghof will be arranging the permits for us, we will be doing a tour of Turkmenistan with him in August. And leaving via Torugart, Greg at Caravan Cafe will be working on the permits for that. But we plan on crossing the Torugart in late October on the way to the KKH in Pakistan. Should I be concerned about the weather on the passes in late October??? Adrian: Maybe we will see you going in the opposite direction, we are also planning on doing the Pamir Highway in early September. Hopefully we can meet at some point? Vincent: Thanks for all the great advice. I think we will skip Afghanistan for now, we are arranging for our China crossing into Pakistan right now. ------------------ Dave www.mototrekker.com |
Hi Dave - I'll be on the Pamir Highway (all going to plan) in the first half of September. Let's stay in touch. I am coming from China and am also using Greg at Caravan Cafe who has been very helpful.
Ride Safe. |
Hello,
I am now in Kazakhstan, almaty, everything allright thanksto the fabulous welcome of the Silk Off road almaty motorclub. Tell you more about them next. I am preparing my trip to Afghanistan. Every info are welcome; I am planning to enter in Afghanistan from Tajikistan, anmd then straight to Kaboul and exit via the Kyber Pass. I also want to go to Band E amir lake, near Bamyan ex-buddhas. If you have any info, they will be strongly welcome. See you on the road for those who are riding nearby! Salut Vincent, J ai quitte avec regret le sourire de Lola...La moto roule bien jusque a present. Inch allah, ca va continuer. a plus, Henri, www.electaunavia.org [This message has been edited by henri (edited 20 June 2005).] |
Phew! This thread fills up pretty quick! I crossed the Pamirs in late October last year, the army have been pulling back in the last couple of years and i was only stopped once or twice throughout Tajikistan, it seems relatively safe, although the road follows the Afghan border for 250km (literally on the other side of the river) and no doubt there is still a lot of smuggling going on.
The road over the Pamir plateau is actually ok, but between Khorog and Dushanbe (steep, landslide-prone valleys) can be patchy. you could do Osh to Dushanbe quite comfortably in a week. Late October/early november is generally when the snows start coming. It was an early winter when i crossed, the weather wasn't too bad (blue sky, not much wind) but the passes (4200-4600m) had ice and snow for 10-20km each which made for difficult riding and slow progress. Note that Kyrgystan also had icy passes and i had trouble on three or four of them (3000-3500m altitude), these were as difficult as the higher ones in Tajikistan. For some cool snow riding photos in the Pamirs and Kyrgystan, check out www.hotkey.net.au/~howmans Cheers, Sean |
great, wonderfull, yes, thanx to all
remember also for the less experienced or less adventurous or less advanced this thread (sharing experiences about LOI in "ex ussr") on : http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb...ML/000069.html feel free, if you have 5 minutes ... cheers :-) |
anyone who managed to go there recently ? how ?
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http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/forwood |
very nice, cheers
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any other experience this summer in tajikistan afghanistan ?
if not, what stopped you at the end : paperwork, security, etc ... ? |
Yep, we just rode the Pamir Highway in September and are now in Kashgar, China headed to the KKH in Pakistan. There is lots of snow and ice over the Torugart Pass from Kyrgyzstan at the moment too.
The Pamir Highway between Khorog and Murgab is in surprisingly good condition, mostly paved with a few gravel stretches over the passes, but the road at the Tajik/Kyrgyz border north of Murgab is pretty bad. There is also a nasty little river crossing between Dushanbe and Khorog and it doesn't look like they are repairing the washed out bridge anytime soon. BTW, if anyone goes to Tajikistan, don't just do the Pamirs, the road from Khojand in the north to Dushanbe is even more dramatic. The roads in most of Tajikistan are pretty awful, but are fun on a properly equipped dual-sport bike. Lots of gravel and horribly rutted/potholed asphalt roads. Some of the roughest roads in Central Asia IMO. And it doesn't look like they are doing any repair work on the roads at the present time. Security in Tajikistan seems to be fine, no problems for us. Everybody was very friendly and welcoming. I will do a report on the Pamir Highway and the road from Khojand in the near future when I get a bit of time and we will also have more on our blog on HU shortly. ------------------ Dave www.mototrekker.com |
I also rode from Kashgar to Dushanbe across the Pamir Highway in September this year (just before Dave). I was on a KLR650 and had no major issues. The road leading up to the border from Kyrgyzstan has had some recent landslides which have not been cleared but riding/pushing/walking your bike is possible and its only for a very short distance. Most of the Pamir Highway proper to Khorog is paved and in reasonable condition - there's a few patches of gravel say 30kms in total. As Dave says the road beyond Khorog to Dushanbe is pretty bad, with soft surface, rutts and THAT water crossing.
Homestays were easy to find in Murgab and Khorog and although there are plenty of police checks along the way I never had any issues with them (i.e. no money required to pass). Most of the time I was invited in for a cup of tea and food and a chat. There isn't much traffic on the road either. I would have passed half a dozen trucks going the other way in 3 days of riding. |
Northern Afghanistan safe again?
The Great Game Travel Company mentioned in this thread starts organizing jeep tours to Afghanistan as "for the first time in over a quater of a century, the north of Afghanistan is once again considered safe for travellers". The company is operated by a British that has been living in Dushanbe for years and, I guess, knows the situation very well. http://www.greatgametravel.co.uk/ FYI Kris |
N. Afghanistan
Someone recently asked about taking a GS650 to Kabul (can't find that thread!).
North Afg continues to hit the news:- BBC NEWS | South Asia | German troops die in Afghanistan and the South is no better!! :nono: Dave |
GBAO-permit / turkmenistan/ afghanistan
hi all,
we will be in the pamirs in september (two girls, two DR 650's)... two questions and a remark: the gbao-permit: it is no longer so that it can only be obtained in dushanbe. we got ours without any problem from the tadjik ambassy in vienna. not all embassies apparently provide this service (it was impossible in brussels), but they just arranged it with the visa and charged 20 euro's for it. we wanted to get it in advance, as we will enter from osh... turkmenistan: we have a seven days transit visum. apparently they days at the border count, which leaves us with 5 days to cross. does this mean we have to register at OVIR? and if so, does it mean we cannot camp or stay at private homes? this is important to us, as we need to cross turkmenistan again on the way home... and therefore would be in trouble if we can't come back 'till 2010... which seems to happen to almost everybody. afghanistan: any recent security info? we are not planning to go there, but it's our only return option if things go wrong in turkmenistan. i found both positive and negative info on the road through bamyan to herat... ??? see you guys there g&t |
I have been working in Central Asia for almost 2 years now, I am based out of Bishkek. I am a contractor and work on a lot of government and NGO contracts. Currently I am in Kabul. My company has the contract to provide camp services to USAID. They are rebuilding the roads and bridges in Afghanistan. They just started in Northern Afghan. We are setting up the first camp in the Badakashan province at Fazibad. The roads from Tajikistan to Kabul are really bad, washed out in places. You can not get a large truck, everything has to go by small ones. A bike should really not be a problem though. You are relatively safe in the northern provinces, just do not take any pictures of the poppy fields. Make sure you register with the OVIR in Tajikistan, my company has people there permanently and we send people there temporarily and it is always a problem. Even if you are there less than 5 days, if you do not register you can have a lot of problems leaving. The safest thing to do is register. If you need anything specific let me know. I will be back in Bishkek on Saturday then back to Kabul the following week.
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