No idea who the solo Australian is. On a motorbike or push bike? Cant find your reference to him in your blog. Its probably you.

Did the 4 motorcyclists pass you today?

Griff, dont underestimate the road. While the Western BAM is a cinch compared to the Eastern, its plenty brutal enough for a 4WD.

A well prepped Disco driven by experienced Polish expeditioners in 2009 was basically trashed on the western BAM and had to limp home. The guy who led that trip, Michal Rej, who was a Polish rally champ, and has done everything from Cape York, Tanami Track, all variants of the Road of Bones, all sorts of obscure tracks in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, described it as the "Everest of offroading" after he reached Tynda.

I think you will get across the Kuanda with help from Kuanda based 6WD trucks.

I think the road will be your biggest challenge.

Not underestimating Walter, I remeber your wise words from a thread a longtime ago about the road and 4x4 use. Your words have stayed with me all this time! Im quite prepared to turn tail and head back if it gets too much, Im not out to prove anything.

I need to get in touch with Adam to see what he thinks as we are on similar wavelengths. I just saw on FB that Andrew, Jon and he are in Tynda having completed the BAM in some sunny sunshine bier

G

I met some Russian 4WD guys last year at Chara (Nissan Patrols from memory - sponsored up from a Moscow 4WD gear importer - so all geared up). They had come from Moscow, up to the BAM on the 110 (same way BlackLabb has come).

They had to abandon their trip at Chara and freight the cars home on the train, mainly cause the 110 was so tough on the vehicles and the stretch of the BAM from Novy Uoyan to Chara had finished them off. But I do recall them having gotten over Kuanda River without much drama - cant recall if it was on the bridge late at night or via a 6WD from the village. Sorry about not remembering the detail, but as I said, I do recall that Kuanda wasnt an issue for them.

The thing that scares me most for the 4WDs is the rail bridge crossings. There have been a couple of occassions on the past few years when motorcyclists have misread the tracks, and met a train half way across. For the bikes, they can throw them selves against the railings and the train squeezes past. Any error with a 4WD and its an instant wreck.

I think for bikes it's the weather that's the killer, I did it last year east to west with a friend in fantastic conditions and the ride was amazing. I can imagine it being a totally different experience in the wet though, maybe I will try it sometime :) . As Walter says the bridges are the main problem for 4WD, the 2 big ones are guarded so if they do let you drive them at least they will know when the next train is due. We crossed a couple of other smaller ones on the bikes but that's easy to bump them onto the side of the track and shoot through. Also I wouldn't fancy sitting in a 4WD day after day over those roads! I'd end up with piles! Ha ha
Good luck and look forward to reading your progress.
Mark

I think there are 5 rail crossings from memory, would all of these need to be driven or would the water option be... an option?

G

The 2 big ones would need to be by railway bridge, the 2 or maybe 3 others we crossed could probably have been crossed by 4WD, but it was easier to jump on the tracks. Also the rivers were low when we did it last year, this year maybe a different matter. All adds to the fun ;)

Just arrived in Tynda from Severobaikalsk...
 

I arrived in Tynda last night along with Peter Berry (XR400) and the J.A.B.A MUNDUS | Motorcycling Around The world lads, Jon and Andrew (2 x KTM 690 Rallye)

Lots of talk about how tough the ride is but its all relevant. Relevant to:

• What you're riding (and how well you've prepped it)
• How much gear you're carrying
• What you're riding experience is
• And as Harryg mentioned, the weather. Not just when you're on the BAM but during the days/weeks preceding.

We had blue skies and sunshine on all but the morning of our final day. The water in the puddles was approx 30cm below the high water lines and so I (personally) think we had it easy. (Although a couple of puddles were approx 80cm deep).

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/pho...-ktT7ch2-M.jpg

Being (very) short in the leg its the rocky and/or murky water crossings that I find most difficult and so thanks to what I presume to be relatively low water levels I didn't find anything too difficult. I just walked my bike across the rocky rivers. (I'm riding a DRZ400 with approx 30kg of gear).

The big river crossing (W20 in the waypoint folder) has been replaced by a new bridge.

Other than that it was like a great trail ride but fully loaded. :funmeteryes:


We all felt the worst section was Novy Uoyan - Taksimo. Walter; you need to upgrade your description from 'Rough Road' to 'kin Rough Road'! It didn't help that we were all riding with hangovers after stumbling across (Saturday) Girls Night Out in NU... bier :thumbup1: doh

It's a tiring ride that's hard on machinery. Our tally was:

7 punctures (all rears were nails, all fronts pinched by sidewall collapse)
1 Broken aluminium dash plate
1 leaking fork seal
1 holed radiator
1 snapped chain (that snapped the front sprocket & nut!)
1 engine filled with water (KTM - no names mentioned :nono:)

The oldest, cheapest bike of the four (Peter's £800, '97 XR400) merely lost a seat mounting bolt!


Black_Labb - we saw your tyre tracks but somehow never saw you!

It doesn't improve until after Lopcha

The bridge across the Chilchi River has collapsed requiring a detour across the unguarded railway bridge. However, someone has gone to reasonable lengths to deter anyone from doing so...

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/pho...-TFGgJfb-M.jpg

From the west...

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/pho...-SQkzj9j-M.jpg

From the east...

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/pho...-VjmGv58-M.jpg

I'll finish on a lighter note. Here's our 'Porn Star' pose photo from the Golden Spike...

Well done chaps, its a great ride isn't it :) enjoy a beer and good luck on the next section.
Mark

well done lads ... now for a boring ride up to Yakutsk and Khandyga, before the fun starts again.

You must have passed Black Lab while he had a day off in one of the railway huts, somewhere around where the three good concrete bridges are there in the middle of nowhere (about 300 km before Tynda).

He should be in in Tynda tomorrow. He is going to try the Eastern BAM after Tynda.

BTW, where's the pics of saturday girls night out in Novy Uoyan??

NEVER...leave the guesthouse without your camera!!!
 

Now then....I did say 'stumbled across' meaning we were unprepared and had no cameras...dohdohdoh

Andrew had ordered dinner for us in the local cafe for 2130 so we all rolled in expecting to find just that...a cafe. But of course this is Russia so the cafe had a bar, dance floor and DJ...and a female:male ratio of about 8:1 !!!!:clap:
After a few piva's and a couple of bottles of vodka we had the DJ playing the Sex Pistols 'God Save the Queen' and the House of Pain's 'Jump Around'. Not sure the Russian's knew what to make of us!

They say beware of the quiet ones. Well let met tell ya, that lad Pete can throw down some shapes:D

Well done boys!

Arrived fine back in Irkutsk myself and met up with Felix. Trying to conjure a cunning plan for the next few weeks.

Also met DakarJoe and partner on their f800gsas. They are carrying as much shite as I am,including the obligatory alli boxes.

Also passed a German TLC heading West East.

Yes will be interesting to see how they go on those heavy beasts. Joe is a BMW off road instructor, but I dont think Corinna is at that level.

The boxes will take a beating. One thing is for sure, it wont be fun on those bikes. At best it will be hard work. At worst, misery.

Thats a pity ... it was one of the classic sights

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2576/3...ef1157b9_o.jpg

Attachment 10309
That was a good crossing, my friend almost fell over at the far side as the boulders were big and the river was running fast.
While waiting for his boots and socks to drain of water we had a cup of tea with the bridge builders sitting at the end of the old bridge. One of those 4WD Russian vans came screaming up the river and stopped dead on a boulder, they had to get a monster 6WD truck to rescue it.
Strange how they are repairing odd bridges on the track, wonder is they will eventually repair all the road?

Attachment 10310
Attachment 10311
Funny looking at that van, amazed how the bloke just drove off after he was pulled out. Especially when you see the boulders under the front and rear wheels. Those trucks are indestructible!
We have those workmen to blame for ruining the river crossing :(

well if the bridge at Chara is burnt, then I guess they are going to have to repair that one now. Maybe they will even rebuild the bridge at Kuanda. Possibly even build a bridge over the Olyokma

I was having tea and charging electronics at the station 100km after yuktali. Heard bikes but didn't see anyone when I got to the centre of town. I'm in Tynda now, will you 4 be around for a beer?

The surface of the chara bridge is burnt along the western third or so. The steel frame is still there. All it will take is some railway sleepers and similar to replace the road surface. Someone will do it I assume.

I only found out in chilchi about him. I had seen tracks after getting off track before the Vitim and was told in ilchi that a Australian on a motorcycle was there a week ago, I'm assuming it was him making the tracks after passing me while I was lost.

The other 4 passed me about 20 minutes after posting that while I was at the station having tea with he radio operator.

Now that I've had a taste of civilisation and am able to gather my thoughts I'll give a bit of an overview on the road from my perspective. Being on a bicycle there are different sets of challenges than a motorcle though much of it is probably useful information for motorcycles and 4wd. One important thing about the bicycle is you don't travel quickly between the challenges of the road making them less frequent and you are more ready for them.

Congratulations JediMaster and the rest of the crew. I can't count the number of times I thought to myself this is easy on a bicycle, but I wonder how the motorbikes are going to get through. How did you manage with the washed out sections of road soon after Yuktali? There was one spot that I had to climb down into the gully and out the other side with the bike. Did you find a way around it?

The western BAM wasn't too tough a ride via bicycle, but I couldn't expect to make distance quickly. As jedi master points out the weather was very good leading to fairly tame puddles and river crossings. The things that were the worst for me were specific surfaces. Sandy roads are the worst as they drain what little power I have available. On a motored vehicle you add a bit more throttle and it's no problem. I found some sections that would be very easy on a motorcycle quite frustrating because of soft road surfaces. Because of the relatively slow speeds potholes, puddles and rocks jutting out of the road are easy to dodge. There weren't any seriously difficult river crossings to cross on the western BAM and a bicycle is easy to carry. I rarely removed my panniers to cross rivers. The river just after Khani might be the biggest issue for some vehicles due to the large rocks but it isn't hard if you choose the right setup. The most challenging part was probably between Khani and Lopcha. My biggest challenge since the 110 was between stari Chara and nearly chara sands.

For anyone interested in the 110 it is quite a bit more difficult than the western BAM in the conditions I experienced. The lower Barguzin would be a challenging crossing at the best of times. I was fortunate to meet the park rangers as they were paddling an inflatable row boat across with some supplies. I had arrived at very high water which was close to 1m above where plants grew and was very fast flowing. Nothing but a Ural with an experienced driver could cross that (or a boat of course). Past that there were quite a few more river crossings many about mid thigh deep. These would be fairly challenging on a motorcycle. I think the hardest part on a motorcycle was towards the northern end. There are a few sections where the road and a rocky river merge for a few hundred metres. You need to navigate your bike over large rocks and boulders while in a river and some of the rocks are big. I would recommend a very light bike and a few people so the bikes can be lifted over rocks. There is also some deep mud in places and very deep puddles. Be prepared to scout out every puddle or go around through the equally messy bog as they may be deeper than your air intake.

There are many bears on the 110. I was close behind the 4wd at one point when I realised there were bear tracks on the road that had been made more recently than the 4wd tracks. Do some reading on precautions when camping in bear territory.

Having said that a 4wd made it through. There were 5 strong young men and from what I understood they did a shitload of pushing and playing tricks with the jack. They had abandoned their trailer which was stuck in a puddle and they left their 4wd in Novy Uoyan to continue their trip to Chara in the back of a Ural. If they can do it it can be done on a motorcycle with enough determination.

I did the 110 after a couple days of on and off rain which probably means heavy rain in the mountains. It could be easier but it could also be a lot harder. It is only 250km between towns but there is a fair bit of tough roads and 110km of very tough track. I wouldn't expect a motorcycle to be any quicker than a bicycle even if there are hills.

Edit: as for bicycle troubles? Nada. 2 flat tyres in the nearly 40 days (about 35 riding). A bit of preventative maintenance such as liberal application of marine grease to any seals around bearings and swapping a chain after the 110 (I'll put it back on soon).

Off to the eastern bam tomorrow. I expect decent roads for a while slowly declining until zeya where I expect the road conditions to drop off a cliff hitting rock bottom pretty quickly. I just hope my feet hit a rock bottom before I drown in mud. We'll see what happens.

Looking forward to your eastern bam report, we are planning it next year from east to west.
Good luck on your travels.

Mark

They are in Yakutsk now mate.

Thanks Mark (Harry?)

Got a pm from them earlier. Its probably a good thing they're there. Its been seriously pissing down here and probably on the kolyma highway turning it to serious mud. I would have some great photos of staircases in Tynda looking like waterfalls and the streets like the bam river crossings except I didn't want to take the camera out of the 8 bags I had keeping it dry. It was very good timing to be sitting in a gatsinatsa sipping beer an and doing some errands/Cafe runs when the rain backs off. Hope things clear up by morning otherwise getting out of Tynda will be just as challenging as the worst of the road so far.

Anyone notice that the Rolling Stones song "gimme shelter" sings what sounds like " whoah Tynda, it's just a shot away, it's just a shot away". Would you believe I noticed that while riding in the rain the day before Tynda? Made me smile despite having ridden in the rain all day.

Arrived back in Severobaykalsk with Felix. Heading east tomorrow/ Thursday. Will aim aim to reach N Uoyan, then Taksimo Friday. Just like bionic man, the TA has been strengthened, lightened and improved upon. It's also been resprayed, but it's still a Trannie as it says so on the side. :thumbup1:

Good luck Chris, and we are waiting for pictures of the "new and improved" trannie :scooter:

Mark

Seeking 18 inch rear tyre in Tynda or Yakutsk.

Anyone know of a bike shop in either T or Y where I might check if they have the above size ideally a motocross or similar tyre in 18 inch. Any old Chinese stuff will do.

The current Pirelli mt21 appears to be utter shite in terms of wear. It will struggle to reach Magadan. Dean in Moscow can't deliver to there in the time I have.

Trannie mk 2 seems to have gone from 17 to 18 on the back. Dunno why:oops2:

There's a couple of pics on fb taken with my phone. Send me a friend request. Uploading pictures from camera to here is a pita when on the move.

You should check with Max from Tynda: +7 914 556 6990 or Bolot re Yakutsk. I'm sure I have some numbers for Bolot or some bikers in Yakutsk if Max can't help.

solved.....

thank you

Check with Bolot, he is very helpful. Am at work so don't have his info, just google. It is holiday season in Russia, many may be out of town.

Or order your tires from dean, the hubs favorite tire guy in Russia; he delivered mine to Yakutsk.

Hey Tom
Many thanks for these contacts. Just sent Max a sms.

I'll be in UB 23, 24 August. Saw you were shipping bike to UU so assuming you're heading for Mongolia.

Me and Felix arrived in Taksimo today / Fri. Will cross Vitim Bridge tomorrow and aim to be in Tynda early next week.

Hey Tom
Many thanks for these contacts. Just sent Max a sms.

I'll be in UB 23, 24 August. Saw you were shipping bike to UU so assuming you're heading for Mongolia.

Me and Felix arrived in Taksimo today / Fri. Will cross Vitim Bridge tomorrow and aim to be in Tynda early next week.

Ps. Joe and Corrina are here too.

Yeah, flying to UU on the 8th to get my bike, then in UB 10-12 Aug. Doing kind of a loop to Tseterleg up to Khovsgol, then back to Darkhan, then back to UU around the 22nd or so. Maybe I'll see you on the road?

Vitim Bridge done! Felix and I arrived Charas in rain storm.

Tom: I plan to fly Magadan to Irkutsk on 20 August and ride transalp Irkutsk to UU to UB on 21/ 22 so hopefully we can meet somewhere en our routes.

let's stay in touch; I'm on an Xchallenge with the TT tank. will pm you with my number.

Hope things are going ok for those on the rob. Saw on the Russian TV that there was flooding in Yakultia (thought I had it bad...) no idea where in Yakultia though as I didn't recognise any names.

I'm about to go to sleep at a railway camp in a unmapped town 50km east of Dipkun. I was banyaed, fed and poured plenty of vodka and brandy before retiring to a railway car used for the workers rooms. I need to buy them a bottle or 2 of something.

The eastern bam has been challenging but only because of the hard rain I had a while in tynda and the constant on and off rain since. A couple missing bridges made things a challenge as well. Fortunately the roads are mostly ok aside from the washouts and deep puddles from the recent rain.

Arrived at Tynda with Felix.

Can anyone help with fault diagnosis? About 20 km before Lopcha the bike ( 2008 BMW x challenge) started messing about. Stuttering and spluttering. The only way it ran at all was to rev the nuts off it riding 65 kph in 2nd gear or 75 to 85 in third. The second I went slightly off the throttle it coughs and dies or if lucky I pull the clutch and rev it like hell and re engage gear. The bike idles ok but particularly hates going up hill.

We have replaced the air filter on the side of the road and the bike ran great for 20 km, then the same old tricks. What shall we check in the morning? It's 1.45am here.
Spark plugs
All electronic components
Put in new high octane fuel?

Any tips gratefully received.

I had very similar symptoms with the same engine in the F650GS after revving the nuts off it all day, riding autobahns, in the main, from Switzerland to the UK.

My good news is that it cured itself (and I never did know or understand what caused the symptoms).
My bad news is that it appeared to cure itself after I flung it into the garage and rode other steeds - coming back to it after about a month of standing, neglected, did the trick.

see my comments on the parallel thread

what sim card / phone provider are you guys using for data etc. on the BAM, is the coverage pretty good?

i'm in Moscow, a few weeks from Irkutsk heading for the BAM whats the weather and river crossings like just now?

just arrived in Tynda,

anyone here?

all the Russians say that the road is Impassable heading north from Tynda to Yakustk.
has anyone made it to Yakustk? Magadan?

in the last few days?

is tynda the best place to turn off the BAM for the ROB to magadan?

can someone tell me where the "summer road" is

also where is the middle of the BAM i.e. between what is referred to in this thread as "east" and "west"

I was planning to ride from the northern end of lake Baikal to tyndal and on to magadan... is west of tyndal the "easier" "western" section?

should be at lake Baikal late august...

X-Challenge Fest
 

Ed, I am guessing they left yesterday ... you are probably a day behind 2 other X-challenges. Felix and Chris from the UK. They are heading up to Yakutsk and then Magadan. Hopefully they will read this in Yakutsk and wait for you.

There are two Americans on KTMs near Baikal about to head along the BAM but they wont make Tynda for about a week.

Dajg, BAM is a pretty challenging road ... a bit of research before the trip would be preferable. Doing it solo is not ideal.

Tynda is the middle of the BAM Road. Eastern half is close to unrideable. The Western half of the BAM is what people usually refer to when they talk of riding the BAM road.

Tynda is the only place to ride north from the BAM Road to Yakutsk and the Road of Bones, although its possible to take a boat / barge north from Ust Kut and also get there.

The Old Summer Road is an abandoned section of the Road of Bones between Khandyga and Kyubeme. See link below for map and more detail:

ADVrider - View Single Post - Siberian Extreme 2010 - Back for More

Local SIM cards work in many but not all towns along the BAM and in these remote areas of Siberia. In between the towns there is no coverage

If you are arriving around Baikal in late August you are probably going to be too late to get to Magadan - unless you want to get there in snow. The Road of Bones will start to have sub freezing nights early September

Thank you Walter,
for keeping tabs with who is coming and going from Tynda (and area)....

edd

yakutsk
 

Edd

Tynda to yakutsk road is fine. 2 longish days will get you here. What is your plan? Do you want to try osr?

We plan to leave yakutsk on sunday am. We are quite tight on time so may not be able to wait for you.

Felix

Magadan...at last!!!
 

Here's an extract from an email I just sent to a few friends. I'll post again (with a few photo's) tomorrow when we move into some accomodation.

"...At 2200 yesterday (Thursday 08/08) we (Pete, Ivan, Yevgenny and I) finally rolled into Magadan after 9 days bushcamping from Yakutsk and promptly camped again.
We encountered the M56 Kolyma Highway closed in seven different places, camped at three of them and waited three days for the Aldan River ferry after crossings were suspended due to the road closures. At the he final closure (25km east of Aldan) we met young Yevgenny, Old Yevgenny and Ivan; all riding to Magadan.
Whilst we waited for 30 trucks to be dispatched from a quarry 200km away to fill the hole in the road and for a bulldozer to work through the night to repair the road, Pete and I were interviewed for the Russian TV channel News 24 who'd sent a crew to the area to cover the unprecedented rain/flooding/road closures.

From approx 50km west of Khandyga the land on either side of the road ranges from waterlogged to flooded. The road is acting as a dam that in places has failed. At the second washout a Nissan 4x4 had been abandoned in water up to the windscreen. Three of the closures were unfordable by Kamaz/Ural trucks.

Ust-Kut issued a flood warning to its population for August 2-4th in which the people were told to keep their documents and children safe. It was clear that the road had been a real mess shortly before our arrival.

Old Summer Road - Unless water levels reduce significantly over the next two weeks I'd be presently surprised if anyone rides it this year. In Khandyga we met two Russians who'd ridden from Magadan and told us the OSR was impossible. In Ust-Kut we met a Spanish cyclist who told us the same. I had a look at the track behind the gas station at the west end of the OSR and found the water began approx 400m from the GPS marked crossing point (I'll post the photo on the HUBB thread asap)..."

For me the Old Summer Road IS the 'Road of Bones'. After 6 years of dreaming about it and 2 years of planning it was a major disappointment to pass it by.

More tomorrow...

yakutsk
 

Edd

Tynda to yakutsk road is fine. 2 longish days will get you here. What is your plan? Do you want to try osr?

We plan to leave yakutsk on sunday am. We are quite tight on time so may not be able to wait for you.

Felix

Felix,
I think I will be two days behind you. Sunday morning will leave Tynda headed north to Yakustk and then......????

after magadan, or where ever you get to, what is your plan?

Adam, as Ust Kut is about 3000 km away from where you are, I am assuming you are referring to Ust Nera

Thanks for update and congrats for getting to Magadan.

Its not meant to be easy :thumbup1:

edd
 

Edd

What is your plan with the bike from magadan assuming you are heading there? We are shipping back to europe and looking for others to share the vost. Let me know if this is of interest to you.

Gelix

I just picked up Adam's email. I to hope he meant Nera not Ust Kut!

We made it to the Vitim Bridge 2 days ago but decided not to go any further due to the unknown size/depth of the rivers at the far eastern end of the section (especially the Olekmya?) After driving alongside the railway I realise the extent of driving the rail-bridges and decided in all events to not try. As a solo vehicle we could not guarantee safety from both directions. So ahead of us was 5-6 river crossings. The Kaunda we could rule out due to the Kamaz availability but that still left 4-5 unknowns that I couldn't get answers to. Rather than drive the additional 250km to N. Chara we decided to head back to Severobaikalsk.

The Vitim Bridge is pretty formidable and Lisa couldn't even walk across it so we decided against driving it (twice). Maybe my heart wasn't in it after 7 months on the road, I don't know.

For those after info, the Freight from Taksimo to Tynda for a 4x4 is £2000 :O That is just the loading charge.

We are leaving for Ust-Kut tomorrow to get the Barge north to Lensk... Hopefully.

The yanks are here in S.B. also, leaving for the BAM tomorrow, no internet where they are staying.

G

Its one of those things ... the fear factor doesnt come thru in photographs. But if you have even the slightest fear of heights, its very formidable indeed. I assume if you dont have a fear of heights, then its no big deal.

Had Joe and Corinna already shipped back when you passed thru Taksimo?

Can you post an update of the price per linear metre of the barge journey when you get it please mate?

For your reference it was 4000 rubles in 2009 and 4400 in 2010 per metre of vehicle length, for the barge from Ust Kut to Lensk. Lensk to Yakutsk is a much less demanding road, and it passes some lovely areas. I think you will enjoy it.

Stock up on food and drinks before you get on the barge, there is often very little available onboard. But if the weather is good it can be a beautiful romantic cruise :)

Its funny because its me who has the fear of heights, yet I managed to walk the entire length (I counted 8 rotten sleepers) and back. I was very sweaty on the return though.

Thanks for the prices, they have been on my mind also. at nearly 7m it ain't going to be cheap! doh

How long does the barge take?

G

Walter: 2: Germans in a tlc I spoke to a fortnight ago near Severobaykalsk were trying the BAM after refusing to pay for the Lensk ferry said it was "1000" for their car. I'm assuming that's euros.

I assume they gave up on the BAM too.

Dunno if you know but Joe and Corrina are back in Germany. He left her at the hotel in Taksimo and went for a photo shoot at the Vitim and fell off on the way back hurting himself. No idea where the bikes are.

I'm from Canada,
after magadan, plan is to do more roads In this area


sorry, can't help with your shopping costs

Pussies...???
 

You are of course right Walter, I did indeed mean Ust Nera...doh

LOL...As usual it was the delays that made the journey. Without them we wouldn't have met, ridden and camped with old Yevgenny, young Yevgenny and Vladimir (great guys). Nor would we have met Maxim & Natasha who so kindly accommodated us for a night in Magadan whilst we waited for an apartment to become available.
Without them it would have been a pretty dull ride.

Old Summer Road...

As promised, here's a photo looking along the track behind the gas station at the western end of the OSR. Looking at the GPS I'd guestimate it was taken 400m away from the marked crossing point. Having never been there before I have nothing to reference it to. Does it look like excessive water or were we just pussies...??? ?c?

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/Oth...sia_0028-M.jpg

This is the new bridge across the Kyubeme River, upstream from the 1st photo.

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/Oth...sia_0020-M.jpg

Sunshine was in short supply between Tynda and Magadan. We had two glorious days sitting on the bank of the Aldan River waiting for the ferry then an hour in Ust-NERA and that was it until our final day into Magadan.
Having not ridden the OSR and with the sun finally shining we consoled ourselves by visiting Dneprovski Gulag. What a great ride that was (even if Vlad did drown his bike in one of the puddles!) :funmeteryes:

It was how I imagine the OSR to be...?c?

Here's a couple of photos...

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/Oth...sia_0016-M.jpg

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/Oth...sia_0084-M.jpg

http://shortwayround.smugmug.com/Oth...sia_0101-M.jpg

Looking at the pic of the new bridge pylon, it looks uncrossable. The water is filthy ... its normally crystal clear / deep blue when running at normal speeds and depths.

As mentioned in an earlier post, that bridge is meant to be finished by October next year.

The gulag track is something like the OSR ... the OSR being 420 km long has a lot of variety ... the first 160 km to Tomtor is not bad at all. Nothing like the Federal road, but still its maintained as its the only link to Tomtor.

From Tomtor to about 60 km past Tomtor, the road is still widely used and also in decent shape, tho not maintained. The final 50 km to Kadykchan is also used, but not maintained - its about the level of the Gulag track. The other 150 km in between has some pretty challenging bits, tougher than the Dneprovsky Gulag track (which is actually similar to the 50 km before Kadykchan). So the gulag track is tougher than about half the OSR, with the remainder of the OSR split between similar to the gulag track and tougher than it.

Great pics Adam

I'm in Yakustk now...

Edd SPOT locator

in need of a bike shop or local bike connection, need to add (and or change) fork oil.
seals are good (I think) forks have breather valves on top, and oil has been forced out through them,

the road from Aldan to Yakustk is rough and demanding, and possibly I was going to fast..... ha ha. but it was great fun............

edd

Yakustk

found a good guest house that's needs to be passed on. it's about 5km away from Lenin,

N 61°59.998'
E 129°39.559'

as your driving down the road headed to the location, there is a yellow car wash shop on your left, there will be a dirt road on the left immediately after the wash shop, take the second right, then there will be a small fork in the road, go right, and it is the shiny silver corrugated fence on the right.

secure parking inside the house,
nice modern private rooms (main floor)
inside is quite spacious
they are having wifi put in as I write this,
wash shop close by
small grocery store close by
one of the family members speaks very good English

500 roubles per night.

Well done. Thats a veritable BARGAIN for yakutsk. I will book it.

Hows this for the end to a rough as **** day on the bam.get a gastinitsa just out of town and told to lock the front door as i am alone there. someone comes knocking soon after and I explain I dont have he womans number but they should go to the shop as it should still be open and the woman there knows the number.
Half an hour later anoher knock. I assume it is he woman with the man so I open it. Its him but no woman. I explain again that I dont have the number and he needs to go to the shop. I notice his right hand is bleeding and he smells of vodka. I offer a bandage but he declines. He tells me to go to the shop on the bike as it is sitting in he hall. I say no and he throws a sloppy punch which was easily deflected. More discussion and another punch and a kick my direction.he punch was sloppy and the kick results in me grabbing his leg and pushing him off balance. I tell him to go to he shop and I guide him outside to point its direction and tell him it isnt far. He seems to calm down and I point ita direction and close and lock the door.

After aome banging he beeaks some windows where the lights are on. In the bathroom all over my clean clothes I had just washed ajd in he room im supposed to stay in. Mre knocking and then he leaves. This is getting serious.

I gather my glass littered clothez in a bucket I found and grab the top of the toilet sistern and a whole sistern I find in the corner as weapons. I have a knife but I dont want to use it, it can be used back against me quite easily. Also boil the kettle full of water.i put my bike in my rpom and close the doors either end putting something agqinst them so I can hear if they get into he building and if they do we her they are in the hall.i lock myself in my room prepared to not sleep. Later there is a knock at the door.who is it I say, no reply.again no reply. Then a pretend meel voice saying something like mister mister please let me in.i dont think so I said and went back to my rom locking 2 doors on the way.the banging gets louder confirming its him.there is anoher man withihim now.

I keep the kettle boiling and get my bottle of methylated spirits out and a couple lighters. If the second payne of glass to my room is broken I will pour it into the coffee cup and get prepared.It crosses my mind that I am basically preparing lethal force against someone. As an individual without the phone number to the woman running the place I have no choice.

Just when I think things are calming down I hear a long pole or similar being used to break sone more glass. I assume it is my window but I dont check for fear of being seen and making myself a target. I pour 150ml of methylated spirits into the cup and put the saucer on top. I call put that I dont want trouble and you dont want trouble. Every noise I hear I remind them that it is a problem for both of us and if aomeone comew in here only one of us will be here tomorrow. With the amount of adrenaljne pumping throuh my veins right now I qm quite serious. I make both coffees and keep the kettle hot.

Currently I am still sitting here with my metho close at hand the keytle to my left and the lid to the sistern to my right. They stoped speaking about half an hour ago but I uear footsteps occasilnally. Either they are going to sleep in the yard kn logs of wood or similar or they are planning something. Expect more updates, I wont let myself sleep until someone trustwprthy knows what has happened. Currently it is 1.20am. The first meeting with he guy was at 10pm

This is ogoron by the way

Black_labb.. what town?

Ogoron. The guy seemed to be genuinely travelling so not necessarily a reflection on the town. It is small enough that there would be no police around

Currently nothing but footsteps occasionally over the last hour or so. Though there is still movement

By the way the rough as funk comment was about the road. 2.5 days of spending 80% of my time pushing or carrying the bike through or around puddles. Seriously terrible and unpleasant road that made me question what I am doing and how much I can take. I came to the gatsinatsa thinking I'll spend 2 days doing shit all so I can get on the road with a fresh head and not constantly think about getting a train past the shit road. After what's happened tonight I would love to be waist deep in the puddles again being rained on as I was earlier. Unfortunately I think I understood the men outside saying something like they will get me on the road. I'll see what happens tomorrow but if I don't find something out about the men that makes me feel safe I may have no option but to get on a train. Meeting them in the depths of the bam isn't my idea of fun and constantly watching my back is not going to make things easier.

There was a second road that meets the bam road coming from the town Zeya. It marked an improvement to the road so there is every possibility that the road is able to be travelled towards Fevralsk from here, I just don't know how far.

Currently 3.15 am and so many teas and coffees in me i am filling the bucket up quickly. I don't dare touch the beer in my bag; after such a rough day it will send me to sleep.

Still here at 4.25.i wonder if they left before they were found. I'll be awake for a long while even if I haven't heard anything for the last hour.

640am. Checked and it wasn't my window that was broken in the last breaking. Must have been another window.

Just woke to the owner knocking at the door. She knew that here was trouble and came with the police probably here off the train line. Passed him the description of the events on the tablet to him to read and showed her the damage. They left after 5 minutes and I was told to open the door to noone but her. Back to sleep for me. I seriously need it

Good to know you are safe Black_labb...
We are behind you on the BAM and were following your posts.

Good luck luke ,thats gotta be a travellers worst nightmare.

Just remember ,tomorrows another day,things can and will only get better.

Thanks Terry. I spent today sleeping and thinking about those puddles filling up from the rain. Hasn't been a bad day, just wish I had a front door key so I could get to the shop and a broom so I could clear the shower of glass.

Things do tend to get sorted out in small BAM towns. Terry had his GPS unit stolen in the small town of Isa (other side of Fevralsk) in 2009. As soon as we mentioned it to the locals, they knew who the likely culprit was, and sure enough, we got the unit back later that day.

The towns cant afford to have anarchy, or everyone would leave. So the locals tend to be their own police.

Arrived Magadan today Thursday 15 August. Sadly solo as Felix's bike befell a mishap. The ride on the nfr was a huge anti climax after the BAM. Shame I couldn't ride the osr.

Had a run in with a drunk just as I arrived at the hotel in Magadan. He got violent. He lost badly. V badly. He's now also in jail.

Hope to sort shipping to Vladivostok on Friday.

Anyone want to share a container from Vladivostok to Europe? So far it's 2 bikes. Mine and Felix's.

Kim/ kickaha: what are you doing?

Yuri can hold the bikes while the stragglers arrive and then consolidate all into one container.

Well done Chris, I see Trannie MK2 held up well then :)
The OSR will be there for your next adventure.

Mark

Luke ... if you are wondering if you have just been unlucky with the puddles and rain ... it appears you have been.

Flooding in the Zeya river basin (Zeysk / VerkhneZeysk) is on the front page of the national news channel.

Heavy rains flood province in Russian Far East — RT In vision

I should have mentioned on my blog that I was wading past river otters and even had a little girl fishing on the road I was wading across

Yeah, Mk2 did good. Mk1 wouldn't have made it. In fact, Mk1 didn't make it. A huge thanks to Phil, the only straight bloke from Stoke:oops2:, who let me borrow Mk2. Thanks also to Felix for his help on the BAM. I'm so gutted for him that he didn't make it to Magadan.

The osr might well be a highlight, but the nfr is a low light after the fun and real adventure on the western BAM.

Personally, I won't be returning to the far NE of Russia. Too far for the off chance the osr might be doable. Other negatives I'll bore people with like the shite weather, the mosquitoes and with a few wonderful exceptions, the locals' favourite word being niet. Other regions/countries use da in their own language much more. Ok, one more thing: the expense. The only thing that's cheap in Russia is the fuel. Everything else is over priced for the shite product/ service received.

On a lighter note: Walter: Many thanks for your hard work sorting the gps waypoints list and your other data. Navigation was never a problem. Also, where can I buy the Magadan sew on patch that I saw at rtwdoug's place in Bulgaria? He had a silver one I recall. The gold ones are only for the osr finishers, I believe. Silver is my colour too. Do they do BAM patches?:innocent:

I am the sole distributor of said patches. And I only distribute them having seen conclusive evidence that they have been earned. (helps maintain their relevance).

PM me with address details and I will send you back my paypal details for a fiver, to cover the cost of production and P&P. It will be waiting for you in the UK when you arrive home.

When I commissioned the patches some years ago, the BAM was unknown to riders. So I never thought there would be demand. Now, I think its as popular as the ROB. I might have to have a word with my badge maestro.... stay tuned.

Looking back Luke, you gotta smile.The little girl fishing....
I wonder if she caught anything.... :)

Thanks Walter. Will do the PayPal thing when I have a decent Internet connection. Put me down for a BAM/ Vitim patch too, if the maestro can weave her/ his way. I think I deserve one. :thumbup1:

I think after reading these stories of BAM i start to be more and more interested to do it with current bike Suzuki DR-Z or even smaller WR250R in summer 2014.

I think it really it is if i can get group of experienced travellers&riders to get interested, arrange logistics to get bike to Magadan including myself.

Well I have been peeing sitting down ever since...

actually I did hear her scream to her father (didn't see where he was but heard him speak back) I didn't see anything on the end of the line but it was at a distance and it could of been something small or something having stolen her bait. The zeya reservoir is good fishing, just not usually over the roads.

I did see some big eddies as things swam away from me, pretty sure it was river otters as I heard a few things jump in the water from tree branches as I came past. Whatever it was it was kind of concerning just how big the things at my feet were. Maybe it was best that I didn't see the creatures.

I'm going to add that to the blog now

Edit: yes it's amazing how much pain you forget after a wash and a beer. Its the good memories that last and the bad become good stories

Chris, I PM'd you. What is the price offered by Yuri and where are you shipping to?

Got your pm this Saturday morning and was going to reply after breakfast, but hopefully you'll read this message before you leave Chara.

Yuri said usd 4900 to Rotterdam from Vladivostok. I gave my bike to Olga at DVS here in Magadan yesterday and it should leave to Vladivostok next Tuesday 20 August. Ship takes about 5 days. Felix's bike was crated last Tuesday 13 August in Yakutsk for its truck ride to Vladivostok. Not sure how long it takes. Maybe 10 days? Both our bikes should arrive at a similar time in Vladivostok.

Do you know anyone else who wants to ship a bike back from Vladivostok to Europe this year? 8 bikes can fit uncrated into a 20 foot container.

A few kilometers before we hit the Vitim, a local told us that 2 weeks ago, a German rider went off the Vitim bridge and died. Does anybody know about this and who it was?

That'll be JoeDakar.He fell off on the way back from the Vitim after taking some pictures there for the f800gsa promo and broke a bone in his hand, I think. Not quite riding off the bridge and death, but similar:funmeteryes:

correct chris.

Local stories travel fast but they also get exaggerated fast.

I dont think was on the way back, i think it was on the way to the bridge. i may be wrong.

In any case, it wasnt the Vitim bridge, it was a few KM before the Vitim Bridge, and it wasnt death.

Seemingly not just a broken bone in his hand but both arms!

It is death ,..for GS800 sales ..... :)

Walter, bam helpdesk is full!

barge was great but its now 5000/m and a 4000 loading charge. dont know about bikes they were not very helpful.

in mirny now being looked after by the police. rightside window exploded on the road from lensk at 2200hrs. doubt it was a stone but thats what everyone here thinks!

will fix with plastic today.

Thanks mate ... i will try n get around to flushing out my mailbox.

5000/m was a good guess then. You got a fair price.

Bikes are a raffle. I have had free rides by being a bike, and others have had free rides as a foreign bike (they can usually tuck the bikes in a small space that doesnt restrict how many cars they can fit). And I have also attempted to be charged the full per metre rate, but bargained it down to half than on the basis that bikes are only half as wide as a normal vehicle and we could fit two bikes into a normal 2m vehicle width.

As for Vilyuisky Trakt ... the hardest part is the new quiet stretch between Almazny (25 km from Mirny) to Suntar. After Suntar its reasonably well populated. More traffic and road in better state of repair generally. It can be quite lonely on the road for the first 100 km or so after the river crossing just south of Almazny.

There is a sandy stretch lasting the 10km into Vilyuisk from the west, but sand is more of a problem for bikes than 4wds I guess.

thanks,

we will leave tomorrow hopefully. everyone in mirny has been fantastic. we got the window sorted out with a plastic replacement and as it was my birthday we got taken out for food and then to the zoo. one place even gave us a whole cake! not put my hand in my pocket once either.

we have an interview with the news tv soon also. not sure were going to be able to leave!

I have always enjoyed my stays in Mirny too :thumbup1::thumbup1:jeiger

Hey there Gareth

A belated happy birthday.beer

Good to see things are going well for you

Regards

Callum

Whew, just got caught up, lots of action!

A few pics.... Most taken by Felix

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edIMG_1094.jpg

My fav pic. Just before the Vitim River Bridge. Interestingly this is the puddle that my Transalp refused in and where I turned her round
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSCN4745.jpg

Vitim

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSC_0299.jpg

Vitim, indicating right

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edIMG_1100.jpg

Digging the bike out the mud.Took 4 hours overnight

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edIMG_1116.jpg

It's behind you...

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSC_0314.jpg

Taking a break at Kuanda

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSC_0318.jpg

Monument on the BAM

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSCN8703.jpg

Felix walking his bike across a road bridge

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSCN8730.jpg

No bridge and huge water in the river

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSCN8737.jpg
Ideal for the terrain


http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...edDSCN8888.jpg


Dunnit