who has plans for BAM/110/ROB summer 2013?
 

I'm pretty close to organising visas and flights into irkutsk or khabarovsk so I can ride the bam.

Right now I plan on riding from Ulan-Ude heading north along the 110 to novy Uoyan on the BAM where I will start heading east. I will either attempt the eastern part of the bam or I will take a train from Tynda to the other side of the river from Yakutsk and do the road of bones, then fly back from Magadan to Irkutsk or Khabarovsk (wherever I fly back to Australia from). I will see how I feel after doing the 110 and some of the western bam. If I do manage to complete the eastern bam and I have time I'll try and get back to the western end of the bam and complete the whole thing, but expecting all those stars to line up is pretty ambitious.

I'll be doing it on a pushbike and probably solo, so I will be using the train network to get between the start/end points and if things get too tough.

Should I expect to see anyone from here somewhere out there?

You may well spot us around August and into September in our Land Rover with trailer :thumbup1:

What are you riding? We will likely stop for any cyclists in the region anyway!

G

I'll be riding a black surly long haul trucker set up as a suspensionless mountainbike.

What are your plans, or is it pretty up in the air at this point?

As far as I know they havent finished the train network to Nizhny Bestyakh (across the river from Yakutsk).

Services only run to Aldan I believe.

You should be able to hitch a lift easily enough with a push bike

I've read in a few places that the line has been completed to Nizhny Bestyakh, one being wikipedia but I did find others a while ago when I first considered it as an option.

As you say it's not going to be a showstopper if the train doesn't get the whole way. With all the dust and/or mud that I've heard about on the road to yakutsk I'd try and avoid spending too much time riding the road when I have a visa deadline and need to get to Magadan.

the basic "line" has indeed pretty much been built ... but it still takes years to get it operational ... set up signalling etc.

There are no services on it yet. I dont know when they are scheduled to commence. It will be a big deal when they do, so you will hear about it. But I wouldnt bet on it for this summer.

That makes sense and explains why I had to look so hard to see that it was completed.

Thanks

Hi Mate,

I will be on these road too with a motorbike. Going from Ulan Bator BEGINNING OF AUGUST to Magdan, hope to ride first the western bam and then the old summer road.
Will have approx 4 weeks in total.

Looks like a good trip! Sounds like I'll probably see you a bit west of Tynda. Currently I'm planning on a mid june flight/start date.

Neat! I like those :thumbup1:

Rough plan is Mongolia for July, Lake Baikal early August then see if we can drive the western BAM. We would like to drive the Old Summer Road to Magadan also but there are a lot of variables.

Currently in Georgia and will enter Russia at the end of the month to transit to Kaz and onward from there bier

G

We probably won't end up meeting up unless I end up doing the ROB.

In developments I've just booked flights and will be in Khabarovsk on the 14th of june. I expect to start from Ulan-Ude on the 18th or so once I get myself there (a short 48hr train ride) and organise a few other things that can only be done in cities like a sim card, visa registration etc. Just need to get the visa and it won't be long before I'm standing next to my bike terrified at the thought that I'm riding off towards the bam alone trying to decide if it's a good idea.

BAM Road is fine ... always remember you have this huge safety net there of the train line. Trains will stop on the BAM if you flag them down in the middle of nowhere - especially the small local trains.

The 110 and Old Summer Road are more of an issue safety wise. You dont really have any backup until someone else comes along. Which might be days or even a week or more.

There are some bear habitats along the Western BAM - around Khani (Hani) its said to be an area to be wary. But I have done the road a few times and not seen any there. More of an issue up north, on the Old Summer Road and approaching Magadan.

I'm not worried about the safety side of things all that much. Mostly I'm concerned about the solitude and not having any depth of communication with the locals. I have just started to learn a bit of russian but I won't be having any philosophical debates in Russian that's for sure. I started this topic in the hope of making a few connections with people I may see along the way. Sharing a few stories next to the road or even camping somewhere along the way if convenient would be great.

I'm very content with my own company and have done a fair bit of bike travel alone but the track will take 60-80 days. This will be spent without much communication aside from meeting locals with varying levels of understanding and maybe a couple other "adventurers". I know I can deal with it, but it could be a factor to me just not enjoying myself and skipping a difficult section.

I started this thread to try and make a couple connections with people who I might see out there. I'd love to stop for a chat and exchange stories or even share a night camping if the timing is right.

Look out for 3 m/cs, 1 black Honda Transalp (pic of bike and rider in RR, link in sig below) and 2 BMW Xchallenge. Likely to be on the western BAM going west-east) around 10 to 20 July and Yakutsk-Magadan-Yakutsk (OSR one way, NFR the other) at end July/beginning August.

Beers always good.

Sounds like we'll probably meet up at some point along the track.

Absolutely, I didn't think it needed to be said.

Probably a silly question but do the baltic porters that are brewed fairly often in breweries around St Petersburg make it to the tiny shops along the bam? If so any reservations I have will be forgotten.

Not really ... beer (and food) tends to be basic in the BAM end of the world. There is no problem finding food and beer in the shops in the towns and villages along the way .. just expect the usual tuborg, kuler, 2 litre plastic bottles of ochakovo and sibirskaya korona, rather than boutique beers.

http://creativecan.com/wp-content/up...ona3_thumb.jpg

**** man, I've read through your blogs about the bam at least 5 times each. You talk about the physical challenges regularly, but only now do you reveal the ultimate challenge, mediocre beer!

At least it will be better than most Australian beers and a shedload cheaper.

On a more serious note thanks for your willingness to share information and help people. You deserve to be bought the best beer possible.

There's nothing wrong with Sibirskaya Corona, or Tuborg for that matter.

I was probably just overdramasizing my love for a good baltic porter at the expense of the beers colebatch mentioned. I'm sure I will enjoy sibirskaya korona amongst others on plenty of occasions. If I find stepan razin porter i'll be filling my panniers and do my best to take a pint glass along with me.

Our paths may just cross again!! Heading out in May to cycle back... should be in Mongolia June/July...

Make mine a Westvleteren XII then !

Sure thing, we can drink it in the middle of the vitim bridge!

I almost organised a few westy 12 a year or so ago, but didn't for cost reasons. I think I've got about 50 or so bottles of at least comparable trappist style ale under the house that I've brewed, but I'm waiting a couple months before I try one. It was tasting promising, but possibly closer to a rochefort 9 (between the 8 and 10).


Back on topic, I'm assuming that maps are best to organise in russia? I don't think it will really be neccesary but spreading a paper map over the floor in the tent at night while having a beer is always nice.

Yes the only decent paper maps of Russia seem to be published in Russia and in Cyrillic. Book shops here have pretty decent map sections. Are you passing thru Moscow en route?

I'm flying into khabarovsk as my first arrival point where I'll probably get on the transsiberian for 48hrs of language practice, beer drinking and getting antsy before getting on the bike at Ulan-Ude.

Do you know of any online shops that would carry a suitable map? I'd love to have a map before I go so I can mark it with different notes and landmarks as well as transliterate it for some alphabet practice. Otherwise I was planning to grab one in Khabvarovsk or Ulan-Ude. Probably Khabarovsk so I have something extra to do while sitting on a train for so long

What are you looking for a map of? I doubt you'll find anything detailed of the BAM or anything east of Yakutsk anywhere, including in Moscow (at least I've never seen any). I've seen a couple of maps of the Road of Bones online, that's probably about as good as you'll get for that area.

For just a basic atlas, you shouldn't have any problem finding one in Khabarovsk or Ulan Ude.

I was hoping for something with some details of the BAM like towns along the way etc. Is that going to be too much of a challenge to find?

Colebatch would be able to say better than me, but all of the Russian atlases that I've seen cover that area at a scale of 1:3,000,000 to 1:6,000,000, which is not very detailed but which does show towns, rivers, etc.

Yes I personally think the more recently printed, revised annually, detailed road atlases are still the best bet. I have a very detailed 20 page atlas covering just the Road of Bones / Kolyma Highway between Yakutsk and Magadan, but its largely out of date (from the early 1990s) and therefore not a lot of use.

Thanks Motoreiter and Colebatch. I'll know what to look for. I might just make some detailed notes on a printed map for myself as an atlas will be pretty heavy and bulky.

Getting some things done, one being a journal/blog that I'll update on the road. It's not the slickest website but I've used it a few times before and it is easy to set up updates via draft emails that are sent when net access is available. www.crazyguyonabike.com/bam2013

My visa invitation has been processed and I'll be going into the consulate on monday to drop off documents.

I also had an email from someone who may end up riding the first bit with me but we've only just made contact.

Looking forward to hearing the sound of a motorbike interrupting the nature before meeting some of you on the track.

bam
 

yes i will be there, but hoping to move fairly quickly.

leaving moscow in august, aiming for vladivostok around 12 october.

solo bmw g650xc.

dave

What's your planned route? I wouldn't want to still be doing water crossings in October if I could help it.

Zimi,

Two of us are having trip from UB to Magadan departing end of July from UB on Yamaha Tenere's.
Do you have exact time of leaving UB?

Cheers,
van

Hi, we are heading from UB to magadan on the late July. 2 bikers. We are both Mongolian Nationality.
Let us know your plans in Mongolia. We can have some good trips there as well.

Cheers,
Van

Hi
june may be early for the 110, if the snow melt is not yet through. You might get over the first Bargusinn ford by the park rangers in a rowing boat, the second crossing, if not feasable, has to be made by an occasional truck.
As for maps I like the old soviet military maps, you can find them at many places in the web and print the relevant regions, for the BAM they are sometimes eroneous, as the track was only planed when the maps were edited. But the OSM-maps are ok for a simple updated information.
For bike parts Yakutsk is a good stop, there is a sports shop with a good sortiment and a local who can help you out (you might find him over the guys from the local bikeclub).

Christian

I've just come back from the consulate to collect my passport which contains my visa. Things are approaching very quickly

Hi Christian

I've had a look at your blog, good to hear from you.

I've known that the 110 could be a bit dicey in June. I only expect to be at the first Barguzin river crossing after the 23rd. Worst case I'll do some fishing and wait for a truck.

I've downloaded "russian military maps" onto both my phone and tablet. It's an android mapping application and it can be used to view some soviet military maps as well as OSM, google roads, google satelite etc. Both devices have gps locating so that will be pretty good for navigating, but I'd prefer some sort of paper map just to look, plan and take notes. I'm thinking I'll do some printing and create a map of the track in particular. I've heard that navigation isn't much of a problem on the BAM and from what I can see the 110 isn't much of an issue either.

Right now I'm planning on sticking to the BAM. Do you know if there is a bike shop or sports shop in Tynda? I'll want to change my chain there (just an 8spd so should be easy to find). If I end up going to Yakutsk and onwards to Magadan I'll try and get in contact with the local club.

Would you recommend taking a folding saw for firewood etc? I'm tossing up whether it is worth the extra space/weight.

I've been meaning to read through your blog again, I only glossed over the maps and photos as my german doesn't extend to more than about 25 words. Time to try google transjumbilator.

Thanks for your help

Luke

Hi Luke

fishing is a good idea at the Bargusin river, when we waited at the ford, the crew of the truck waiting on the other side was also fishing and recomended it a lot.
I would reduce weight and take not too many gadgets (saw), though an interesting gadget could be an Alpacka. I would consider it if doing the Eastern BAM (I don´t know this stretch). For the stove I can recomend a hobo, we had a newfire hobo last summer (150 g), it worked fine, but on the BAM and the rest of the journey I had not to cook too often myself, the hospitality is really unbelievable and in the bigger villages there are restaurants.
On our actual journey we have for the first time a tablet and smart phone with us, so I can confirm the app "Soviet military maps" is great, especially the offline maps. Indeed navigation is not too difficult, the main questions are, is there a cafe or shop in the next village (does the village exist?) and it is nice to locate yourself.
As for bike parts, BAM is not very well provisioned. In my blog is a photo of the best shops bike parts I found in Severobaikalsk (can't link it, as currently in China without VPN), I don't know if Tynda has the same choice, but would assume it. If I were you I would take a good chain as spare part from home. You can in case of an emergency organize some parts in Novaja Chara, by asking the people to order something in Chita and sending it with the plane (I think it comes twice a week).
As for bears, be prepared to hear a lot from the locals (apasna = dangerous). I only saw once a bear in two summers in Russia, that was on Tenkinskaya three days before Magadan.

Have a good summer (the region is great and I would like to go there another time, but three summers in a row is perhaps too often)

Christian

As for meeting english speaking people, on the BAM I only met one (Iker) more are to be found on the way to Yakutsk and Magadan (mainly motorcyclists)

Those were my thoughts re the saw. If there were more than one person I would take it as it is nice to socialise by the fire at the end of a day and you can split the weight. With one person it is probably less important and fires can be made without it.

I don't really want to take a spare chain with me. My chain could be shortened by quite a few links before things get tight, and even more if I decide not to use the big chainring (which is going to be pretty rare on those roads anyway). I'll of course start with a new chain and have a chainbreaker with me.

I'll be taking my primus gravity II. I really like cooking so don't want to skimp too much on that side of things, though it is possibly the lightest multi-fuel stove.

I am keeping things pretty minimal. My dummy pack had me fit everything into 3 ortlieb back rollers with enough space for at least 3 days of food. I will be taking 4 back roller panniers though with the intention of having plenty of spare space. I don't have a handle bar bag or anything on the rear rack, just a top tube pouch for the camera. I've done enough touring to know what I use and what I don't. The saw seems like it could be a good idea but I don't think it's too important. I may be able to find a small one somewhere around Chara or similar if I change my mind.

I'm going through your blog now, I'll eventually see the photo in the bike shop. I really don't think I'll need anything unless I break an axle or similar. I'll have a spare tire, spare bearings, spare spokes and tools to deal with it all. Anything else that happens is going to be something that you wouldn't be able to prepare for and just have to figure out a replacement or other fix.

You sure you don't want to give the eastern BAM a try and make it a 4th year?


Luke

Hi Luke

I didn't want to convince you not to take a stove, I was just astonished by the hobo last year and it has definitly a style that fits to Russia.
As for the chain, i just replaced a cheap one 4 days ago after 300 km, zhe caliber told me it was through.
This summer Russia is not feasable as the visa from abroad is a hasle. But Kyrgystan should be a nice alternative, so I hear some Russian, get smetana and pelmeny.

Have a good trip
Christian

I've been thinking about the hobo stove, the idea is growing on me. I might put one together and see how I like it. My first reaction was just that I love my stove, but I can see a hobo stove being good in quite a few ways and just enjoyable to use.

I'll do a bit more research and try and figure out a way to get a spare chain. If neccesary i'll take a chain with me, it's better than using a low quality chain that won't last.

Most people end up having much more in depth conversations with Russians than they think possible.

After vodka, all sorts of philosophy opens up ... jeiger

It can be amazing how much you can communicate if both parties put the effort in. I have been learning some basics which I expect to lead to me learning quite a bit more as I use it. I'm looking forward to being able to hold a conversation.

I'll try not to become fluent enough in vodka'd philosophy that I wake up on the bam with nothing but a kids tricycle and someone elses clothes. That would pose as a bit of a challenge. (Or worse, a harley)

Bump for any people with updated plans or whatever.

Landed in Khabarovsk this evening and am pretty happy to be here, reminds me a lot of Ukraine in a good way.

whats the latest version of your manpowered plans, Black Labb ?

Planning on riding Ulan ude to novy urgal then to vanino on the bam. I will see how things go and I may take the train for some of it.

Spent the evening at Gustav beer Cafe and I couldn't remember why but the name seemed familiar. I think it is where you wished join goodbye on your 2009 trip if I am not mistaken.

You mean Novy Uoyan?

So train to Ulan Ude, then the 110 to Novy Uoyan, then BAM to Vanino. You got a spot tracker?

Looking forward to whatever pics and reports come out of that, especially between Dipkun / Tutaul and Fevralsk :thumbup1:


Gutov Beer house in Vladivostok?

Yes ... a great base of operations !! bier

In khabarovsk. It was called gustav & gustav, they brewed their own beer there. Must be a common name or maybe they are linked.
Sorry, novy uoyan. I have a spot tracker and will use it for ok messages every day or so. I'll post a link once im off the trans siberian.
Right now I am staring out he window waiting to be on he bike.
Do you have plans for this summer?

Bam Road
 

Hello

We are two bikers from Vienna Austria

We are on KTMs 990 Adv.

We tried the western Part if Bam Road (Chunskiy to Bratsk), but had to give up after 10 Km. The road disappeared completely in to a swamp.

We had to ride back and all the way around. Via Tulun.
We are now in a nice Hotel outside of Bartsk.

Has anyone informations about the Road conditions from Ust Kut to the east.
We want to Severobaikalsk and further on to Amur.
Our final target is Magadan.

Greetings
Edwin

Bratsk to Novy Uoyan (after Severobaikalsk) is a good graded gravel road - with many asphalt sections.

Novy Uoyan to Taksimo is a rough road.

Taksimo to Yuktali is a challenge

Yuktali to Tynda is a good gravel road.

Sadly no.

I will be manning the BAM help desk

two austrians in July
 

Hey,

we are two other Austrians on LC4 Adventures currently in Mongolia attemting the western BAM starting around the 15th July. Would be great to hear about the condition this year since it has been a tough winter and its raining a lot currently Edwin.

Has anyone already ridden the BAM this year?

Cheers,
Robert

Hello to you 4 austian guys, I am a guy not fare from you, Switzerland. I planned to ride the western BAM and ROB on a 640ADV this summer as well, but for professional reason had to cancel everything... I will do it next year, but in the meantime, I am very interested to know about your experience! Will you have a blog?

Please keep us informed!

Cheers
David
zimiontheloose.ch | Rock'n'roll Motorcycle Adventure!

Hi Robert
Myself (on a modified Transalp) and 2 mates on XChallenges are riding the western BAM at about the same time as you. See you on the road. Not sure if you're passing through Mongolia, but I'll be in Ulaan Baatar at the Oasis GH between about 7th and 9th July.

David
Shame you had to cancel for this year. Hope it works for you next year.

cheers
Chris

Zimi: will keep you updated for sure, maybe we can plan for next year also since the ROB wont be possible for us this year due to time constrains.

Hey Chris,

Great to hearthat you are also riding at that time, seems like you are two day ahead of us since we are currently in Olgiy and plan to stay at the Oasis from the 10th to the 12th July for Nadaam.

When would you leave Irkutsk?

Cheers,
Robert

Hi Robert
Likely to leave Irkutsk on about 12th July. Plans are however quite flexible and always subject to change. One of my mate's bikes is delayed into Bishkek, so... who knows?

I arrive at UB airport late on Sun 7th July. My bike is parked at the Oasis and I'll need a day to service it, so likely riding north towards Russia on 9th or 10th, hence 11th or 12 at Irkutsk... Inshallah. Or not.

Look out for nasty looking matt-black Transalp with GB numberplate and soft luggage.
cheers
Chris

Jaba Mundus
 

Hi there,
We are on the road and hope to cross at semey tomorrow. W are aiming to be in the oasis guest house on the 10th -12th of July and we are heading to BAM and ROB. To be in Magadan early August (is the aim!) we have a half arranged container down from magadan we can share - they will form up the dates of shipping when we get there but we are told there are apprx 5/month.

Happy to ride with who ever is about! We are waiting for one of Chris' X-challenges to arrive with us today to head on with him.

Stay safe and moving all

Donny

Hey there,

Hope to see you at the Oasis then. Will see if we make it in time, we are currently stuck in Altai with one bike down suffering from a broken carb needle. Anyone happens to havea spare an is currently down here? ;) Mikuni Bst

Cheers Robert

Your the man for the job!

Here's the link to the spot tracker. Sorry for the delay, was on the 110 until now, I arrived in Novy Uoyan yesterday evening. It only shows the last 7 days as I didn't pay for the adventure sharer thing.

SPOT Shared Page

Had some good adventures so far. Was drugged in Ulan ude but instead of getting my stuff stolen in my stupor I danced with an obese Mongolian woman for way too long. Must of had too much built up energy after being on the train for 53 hours. Also realise a bear had been walking the 110 between myself and the 4wd I thought I was right behind. I climbed onto a big rotting bridge to sleep and eat out of the bears path.



Journal is here www.crazyguyonabike.com/bam2013

I'll be able to give some details on the bam conditions east of Novy Uoyan soon. Will start riding the bicycle this pm.

A quick update from Kooinda. There are 2 broken sleepers on the Vitim bridge. One about 2/3rds of the way travelling west to east and the other about 3 m from the eastern end. It would likely be ok to ride over but the surprise and panic could be bad.

I went down the wrong track ~30km after Taksimo. The bam crosses to the southern side of the track where a larger road keeps on the northern side for about 3km then heads north. After those 3km I was confident I was headed the right way and ended up riding 1hr in the wrong direction when a bus driver set me straight. On the way back I saw tracks of what was probably a solo adventure motorcyclist. Wished I would have seen who it was as I was only off the track for 2 hours.

Been pottering around UB and environs a while longer than planned. Now aiming to be in Irkutsk in the evening of Sun 14July. Riding with Mr G, (forgot the correct spelling :freezing::smartass:)

Changing tyres there, then heading N and east to and along BAM.

I've been in chara for a few days. Nearly got to the chara sands but when I woke up less than a km away it was raining and my first attempt to find them led to me walking a swamp track for an hour only to find d myself at the same river I was camped next to. I turned back as it was cold and wet and I was worried the river would start to rise quickly. After crossing the river and backtracking to stari Chara I saw where I camped and the dunes rising up over the trees right behind me. I laughed as I warmed my frozen feet I the warm swamp.

I'm currently in Novaya Chara in the Kodar gastinatsa across from the station. I'll be riding out tomorrow.

Then this morning I woke up feeling pretty terrible and decided between that and the rain I'd spend the day inside playing with the wife. (auto corrected from wifi but wish my girlfriend was here for me to play with).

seems like same weather as last year.

not sure where Chris is, but two british guys just left Irkutsk this morning. They will stop at Olkhon tonight, but will be on the BAM in a few days, maybe catch up with you in a week

After I posted I realised the chances of someone getting here today is very slim. Its my birthday so I'm going to reward myself with a well earned nap and a pot of tea (possibly made on the balcony here in a wood burning stove)

Rain seems to be a common occurrence for people trying to get to Chara sands. I don't think it would really be nearly as impressive in the rain and fog, the mountains in the background are a big part of the draw. Walking through swamp to get to the desert is kind of odd though.

I plan on coming back anyway. Either with a bike again, a backpack and raft or maybe a self propelling bike from a Magadan bike trade.

Spoil yourself Luke ... the food downstairs in the ground floor cafe is pretty decent for that part of the world. And grab a beer. Dont forget to update your spot tracker from time to time ... there are people following it you know.!

The food isn't too bad at all. The noisy bakery in there is a bit less relaxing but Chara is pretty soviet in a lot of ways. Nap was good but the cafe is closed now that I've woken. Time for that beer I think.

Riding with Jon and Andrew from Jabba mundo and Pete.. Leaving Severobaykalsk late on Saturday 20th as I had to fix a leaky radiator on my bike. Hope the rad seal holds. Won't make end of track 52 today and will wild camp somewhere.

Have been shamed into remembering that my room mate JediMaster is actually on the trip too and he's the one who fixed my rad. :(

And it's MUNDUS!!!!!!

So you guys are a group of 5 now?

Riding solo again now. The running gear on my
shed of a Trannie is too shite for the roads, so the other 4 are off ahead of me. My slow average speed was compounded by having to yesterday change a toasted clutch. Took 5 hours on the side of the track. The mossies had a feast too.

2 Russian truckers had the skill, tools and patience to help. Great guys. I had the spare clutch plates and having done the same to my other Alp in Morocco, was able to advise on technique.

Made it to Taksimo earlier today. What took you guys a day last year from Severobaykalsk took me twice that. It'll help me with my timings knowing that now. Not a problem as I have camping gear and there's no shortage of water in the rivers:innocent:

2 other lads, Felix and Phil are 2 or 3 days behind me. They'll probably catch me up.

The other 4 arent that far ahead ... they left Taksimo this morning, but have not yet reached the Vitim ... maybe fixing something by the road.

The Transalp is a big old unit for the BAM ... The road will deteriorate slightly after Taksimo. But the real challenge for the bike will be from about 30 km before Khani to Yuktali. Thats the toughest stretch on the western section.

Behind Felix and Phil will be a Kim and Seb, a Belgian couple on DRZ400s .... maybe 3-4 days behind.

Also leaving UB today on the same route is Joe Dakar and his girlfriend Corinna on F800s ...

The mozzies are relentless if you stop for anything more than a minute!
The road is only going to get worse from Taksimo, hope the trannie holds together..
Good luck Chris.

Mark

Thanks for the input guys. I'm gonna chill here today and take it easy for the next couple of days. Dead slow is the new way to go. :scooter:

chris, out of curiousity, where are you now, and what kind of internet connection do you have? slightly surprised to be getting live updates from BAMland.

Taksimo has good 3G connections.

He should also find good connections in Chara and Yuktali ... Novy Uoyan, Kuanda and Khani have some sort of mobile phone connection but cant remember how good off the top of my head

In Taksimo. Using hotel wifi. Don't have an unlocked 3g handset. My megafon regular sim card purchased in Irkutsk in my unlocked quad band handset is next to useless.

which Taksimo hotel has wifi mate?

Two other guys about to leave Ulaanbaatar ... I believe they are headed for the BAM and Magadan, so you will probably see them at some stage.

Noah on his 690 and Kurt on his 950 - I wasnt sure Kurt was going to make it as he had problems in UB with his unreliable orange machine :D, but it seems he has a fix.

Either way ... lots to help to come in the next 10 days if you break down!

Back in Taksimo.

The hotel next to the cafe and the supermarket/ motor factors has wifi. It's on your list. It's East of the train station and the statue of the sea plane.

I'm in touch with Kurt, the G man whose name we shall not mention. :helpsmilie:

I made it about 50 clicks towards the Vitim Bridge but had to call it a day and turn round. The bike is too fat and heavy and the suspension is shite. I've also replaced the clutch the other day and the radiator is p!ssing water despite being doped up on rad seal. Today it's been topped up with anti freeze/ sparkling mineral water and swamp water. If I toast the current clutch I'm well and truly stuck in a mossie infested Siberian swamp.

Another 500 km of this track ain't gonna happen on this shed, sadly.

Went to the train station and I THINK there's a train on Thursday (today is Tuesday evening) that takes freight to Irkutsk. Will know more tomorrow morning. The freight woman at the station seemed v helpful. The next freight train to Tynda is in 2 weeks time.

I'm gonna fix the rad and just pound the slab and gravel to Magadan and possibly Vladivostok. I intend to re park the bike in UB. When I return I'll bring a new rad. There's one in my garage...

If the train doesn't happen, I'll be forced to ride back to Irkutsk.

I'll ride the BAM another time on a more suitable machine.

BOLLOCKS!

Bad news Chris, hope the bike holds up for you to finish you trip.
A few of us will be heading over to Vladivostok next summer riding to Vanino and then along the BAM. If you are around you can share the container or maybe join the trip (not on the trannie though!)
Good luck
Mark

I think Kurt will be ahead of Kim and I on the BAM. He won't be going to Magadan but we (Kim and I) will attempt the old summer road. *hopefully* we will be starting Aug 1 on the BAM. Kim is waiting on a rear shock then we will go north.

Yeah. Don't ride orange in Mongolia. They will leave you crying :rofl:

Lessons learned: See post #8 at http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...433#post430225

Feeling much better after a couple of bottles of Baltika 7 beer

In yuktali now. Should have some good roads before things go south on the eastern half. Pity you won't make it this year Chris.

Yuktali to Tynda is a freeway ... you will be drinking pina coladas and eating rib eye with mushroom sauce at the glitzy strip club / go go bars of Tynda in no time.
:funmeteryes:

While we're on it, any recommendations on places to eat a good shaslik in Tynda? I've been looking for one for a while, you don't get much fresh meat around these parts. Anywhere you recommend for a decent beer?

Chris, my friend .....
... didn't know you were on the road.
Well, hope everything will be ok!
Take care and .... enjoy the bier

When you get to Tynda, you will realise my allusions to rib eye steaks and strip teasing girls is all part of the BAM illusion. However I can recommend the following:

Shashlik - try Kafe Kavkaz 55.14555, 124.73791
Chinese - try the chinese place upstairs at 55.15288 124.74537

Beer available at either - you MIGHT find some black beer at the Chinese place. Dont quote me on that tho.

BTW, does anyone know where on the road Adam Lewis is at the moment? Is he part of the JABA Mundus 4some that has just left Khani?

Adam was riding with the mundus pair and Pete Berry on his xr400.

I'm on the train to Severobaykalsk Thursday morning at 6am. Will then ride back to Irkutsk and come up with a (cunning?) Plan B on how to amuse myself for a month.

Is there by any chance a Tajikistan consulate in Irkutsk? Considering revisiting Pamir region as I missed it last year. I have a Kazakhstan visa that starts on 3rd August and don't need nowt for Kyrgyzstan.

Anyone know how long a Tajikistan visa and gbao permit takes to issue in Almaty?

Far East Russia might have to wait for a trip on the correct bike (LIGHT WEIGHT GOOD SUSPENSION GET IT BRIGHTY!)

I went there there last summer i think about 2 PM and as they were closing something like 3 PM or 4 PM they told me come back tomorrow morning and voila! my visa with GBAO was ready. I think you can get it easily during same day with few hours waiting. Only problem was finding that embassy. I spend like half day looking for it.

I think Adam is in Yakutsk.

We are in UB now also, couple of days here to service the Landy and we will head to Irkutsk and the BAM shortly after.

We went deep south in the Gobi following old soviet maps for 10 days so I have some fresh stuff for OSM. Need some time to look after the truck now before we head north.

How has the weather been this week guys? are we expecting big water or so-so?

G

On the topic of food. My Russian is worse than shite, so I downloaded a translation app onto my phone the other day. In the cafe next to the hotel i was being served by one of the few Russian women who has drunk from the fugly spring. I ask for shashlik : niet. I type into my phone beef: niet. Ok, I type in pork and one of the predictive spellings is porker. I think she wondered why I was smiling :-)

Griff: Adam is definitely with the Mundus boys and Pete the Babs Rocket Boy. He's not in Yakutsk yet another unless he fuelled nitrous in Chara where he was earlier today. I'll let him and the mundus boys comment on whether your Landy will make it. All i can say is Mongolia is a piece of p!ss compared to the BAM. Then again the Kudu Exped backup car made it a couple of years ago.

Sami: thanks for the news i was hoping to hear. Do you have a gps ref for the Tajikistan embassy in Almaty? Or is it on Walter's waypoint list? Can't check at the moment as I am writing this post on my phone. Need to boot up my tablet pc to check the file on Mapsource.

No unfortunately i dont have but perhaps someone has? I am not certain if they are on Walter's waypoint list.

I found somewhere information from two various sources that GPS co-ordinates for embassy in Almaty: N 43 12.127 E 76 54.818

I try to check them against some GPS software

Address is

Tajik Consulate General in Almaty, Kazakhstan
16 Sanatornaya Street
Baganashyl
Almaty


Br
Sami

Hi Sami
Thanks for your quick reply and also your pm. Let's discuss possible commonality in plans via pm.

I looked on Walter's waypoint list on Mapsource and the Tajikistan embassy in Almaty isn't on the list, or I can't find it. Can you pm me the contact details for your English friend on the xt600 in Almaty from 2012. I have lost the business card he gave me. If you have a telephone number for the embassy he might be able to call them to confirm their address?

Many thanks for all your hard work on my behalf. I owe you a beer!

Chris,
I PM'ed Keith information to you. Unless embassy has moved this year its definately that Sanitornaja street as i remember searching it with "unoffical" taxi driver several hours. It was very well hidden :)

Cheers
Sami

:thumbup1:Many thanks for Keith's details. I'll let you know if Almaty/ Pamirs ends up as the plan. Parking in Kyrgyzstan is straight forward and the only extra expense is a flight back to England.

The heavens have just opened here. Glad I'm in a hotel. Wild camping on the BAM in a rain storm wouldn't be much fun. Hope the Mundus 2 plus 2 have a roof over their heads tonight!

argh..... hard to read about everyone enjoying there summer....

i arrived to sokcho on tuesday, only to find that the ferry was broken (headed to Zarubino) and am waiting here for the week. even if i take the ferry to vlad (on friday), i still wont pass the customs any sooner.

another xchallenge will be heading to magadan next week.....

Update as per 4pm Thursday 25 July

Arrived with bike on train back at Severobaykalsk. The plan is to ride zhiglovo tomorrow/ Fri and be back in Irkutsk Saturday evening. Anyone there for sherberts?

On Sunday things will be closed, so Monday I'll see if I can get a replacement radiator. The bike mechanic round the corner from vlad's bike shop had lots of Japanese stuff kicking around so maybe something will fit.

I have a few ideas for the month of August but most likely is a Pamir revisit as heavy shed can get me to some of the interesting places.

Needless to say, I left my Kazakhstan and central Asia maps in at the Oasis in UB. Any idea of any shops in Irkutsk or Almaty where I can buy such things or if we meet en route I could buy yours?

I'm sitting on the balcony of the Severobaykalsk Resort hotel eating a well earned bar of chocolate while it's still raining. Should be fun in the mud tomorrow on the zhiglovo road :-) ...

Ar, I heard it through the grapevine. I have not seen him since we tried to take a short route through the Altai.

Its not a question of whether the 4x4 will make it and yes, Mongolia isn't difficult I wasn't saying that. I was just asking about the water levels and if we are wasting our time heading west of Baikal to the BAM. I still think Kaunda will be our sticking point. I was hoping the late summer would be favourable for a late start but maybe we have left it too late?

G

irkurstk
 

Update from the 2 brits on x challenges.

Back in irkutsk having got to zhigalovo where phil decided he has had enough after 3 months on the road. Can't say i blame him as what lies ahead ain't easy.

I'm hanging in the city waiting for Brighty on his shed. Will make a plan from there on in. Just mmet the 2 germans on f800gsa who are heading to olkhon today.

I think noah, kurt and seb and kim are the only ones heading north to bam now? Anyone else out there?

Will try to curtail social deviances here in irkutsk. It is friday though!

Felix

The bam past yuktali is far from graded gravel roads. Looks like serious flood damage.expect it to be just as bad.more details wheni can charge electronics.im currently 100+km from yuktali and it might be improveing. We'll see soon
Found out the solo rider I missed before the vitim is an australian. Any idea who he is Walter or anyone else?