|
Back on a bike, and back in the USA! My TAT trip, 2018
Hi. Brief back story: Used to ride, a long time ago (22 years), both for fun and for work (courier in Los Angeles) until I began to run out of luck, and into cars, several times in the space of 6 months. On my last trip to the ER I decided to hang up my helmet for the sake of myself and my young family.
Nearly a quarter century later, I took 'voluntary redundancy' from my job in the UK, and found myself in a position financially and timewise, to have an 'adventure'. I'd always wanted to complete a trip from one US coast to the other, and have travelled the US, in part, several times before. I've piloted helicopters and light planes up and down various states, driven an RV from Connecticut to California (in 5 days), but always for someone else and on a strict schedule. This time it was going to be for me, on my schedule, my term's. But how? I considered options such as Route 66, but the idea of endless hours of freeway pounding didn't thrill me or fill me with enthusiasm. Then I read about the TAT. And that did 'float my boat'. It clicked. Initially I considered doing it in my Jeep Wrangler. I had plenty of 4x4 experience both in the US and UK, having gotten into Jeeps when I got off bikes. But it didn't quite seem 'right'. Then my Lady suggested I do it on a motorcycle. That maybe it was time to ride again. So, I signed up to take my UK bike tests and started to look around for which motorcycle I should use, eventually reading about the CB500X and how it could be turned from a mediocre commuter bike into an affordable ADV vehicle. Which brought me to Rally Raid and their various upgrade options. My initial plan involved buying a CB500X in the US and picking it up at the beginning of the journey. Fortunately this became problematic due to the requirements to register the bike in my name in the US. I say fortunately as I realise now that jumping on a motorcycle, after 22 years with only 5 hours of practice for the UK licence, to ride 5000 miles, would have been a bad idea. So I looked around for a UK CB500X, which is when Jenny (Morgan) told me about Rally Raid selling an ex demo bike. After a bit of back and forth over which parts to include and the price, I picked it up the day after passing my test! I chose to take the Air Canada method of shipping the bike, as financially it is at least as good, or better, than sea freighting with the advantage that it flies with you and is instantly available on arrival (in theory anyway, I'll get to that) rather that the 6 weeks of no bike while it cruises the Atlantic. So, booked the flight, for me and the bike and began the paperwork. Only to find that the only company who insured visitors and their vehicles to the US had pulled out of the market recently. Fortunately the broker I was working with found another option and the trip was back on! After a couple of last minute panics over the EPA import certificate and the Canadian Eta visa, I rode the bike down to Heathrow and Air Canada cargo. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1770/2...8e1cbedd_b.jpg And the next day we were on our way! Arriving at Montreal I dashed off the plane and watched to make sure the bike was a) actually on the plane and b) still in one piece. Fortunately both were true. AC did a great job. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/927/43...c4b40006_b.jpg Once I'd successfully passed through customs I took a taxi to AC cargo on the other side of the airport. Only to be told that I'd have to go back to the terminal and convince customs to release the bike. Turns out the day after Canada Day is also a public holiday, so there were no officers at the AC cargo building and they are only supposed to sign off on perishables and live animals. So, back to the terminal, and out with my best begging voice. Success! BACK to AC again with the all important stamped paperwork, and I was reunited with the bike! As my phone provider had decided not to play nice with the Canadian cell service's, I had no Google maps to navigate my way down to the US border, but years of couriering had given me a good sense of direction and I was able to 'old school' my way south. Where I dealt with my second set of customs officers in 3 hours. Who, fortunately, were as helpful as their Canadian counterparts and I was on my way in 20 minutes! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1788/4...b19519a6_b.jpg By this time it was late o'clock, so I rode until my initial excitement (omg I'm here!) wore off and tiredness hit me. And stayed in Plattsburg overnight, where I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1767/4...9243f968_b.jpg Early start the next day and with the sat-nag set to my friends house in Massachusetts I set out on my first full day of riding in the USA (after 22 years...). I avoided the main highway, instead picking route 9n. A very good choice as it turned out. It runs down the side of Lake Champlain and Lake George, providing spectacular views over the water along empty twisting well maintained roads . https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1782/4...ac322e17_b.jpg Eventually finding my way to my friends house, in West Stockbridge, Mass. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1825/4...75f53ed7_b.jpg The following day was July 4th, so spent the the day being shown around the area, going up to Mount Greylock, having a bbq at their cabin by 'Stockbridge Bowl' (the nearby lake) and making the colonials do a double take at seeing the British flag on Independence Day ! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1768/4...a65162a5_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1803/4...5f35e71a_b.jpg Back on the road the next day, with my sights set on my next stop, my Sister in laws place way down in North Carolina. I chose route 7 over the main highway, again a good choice as it passed through several iterations of 'small town America' on the way to White Plains, NY where I took time out to visit my Father in Laws grave and say "hi". https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1787/2...7bbf3bdb_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1786/4...9f6c4995_b.jpg Then on into NYC, via FDR Drive into the heart of Manhattan, dodging the yellow cabs and hordes of Izombies to arrive at Times Square for a quick pic before continuing on Liberty Park where I tried, unsuccessfully, to convince the park rangers to put my bike on the waterfront for a pic with Lady Liberty. So I had to settle for an 'over the hedge' shot at spot down the road. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/840/28...32c79a63_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/915/42...b552dc33_b.jpg Leaving NYC I headed south, through New Jersey on fairly nondescript highways to Cape May and the ferry to Delaware, where I spent a pleasant 1.5 hours (and a beer) with the other biker using the boat. He proclaimed he was taking "a long road trip", to Gettysburg... And was slightly amazed to hear my plans. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1761/4...97a2ded0_b.jpg Off the ferry and yet more highway miles. Boring for the most part unfortunately as it was just monotonous highway pounding, but with not terrible views down through Delaware and Virginia. Eventually finding somewhere to crash for the night in 'nowheresville', getting a solid 9 hours of sleep. Opening the room door at early o'clock I was hit in the face by yet another hot, humid day and resolved to find a solution to my being slowly cooked in the Alpinestar Andes jacket and thick gloves I'd been wearing. (and also realising my Vango Banshee tent had fallen off somewhere between Lewes, DE and the hotel :( ) So I rode down to Norfolk VA, and found a bike shop, picking up a Bilt Charger MX (mesh and armour) jacket and MX gloves, along with some chain lube. SUCH a difference. No more overheating and not having to ride in just a base layer t-shirt (not safe). Breakfast at the pancake house next door, then more highway pounding to Arapahoe, NC, to find my In-laws and my base for the next couple of days. |
Long day. Left Arapahoe this morning and headed to the Cabelas just south of Rayleigh, to buy a replacement tent, freeze dried hiking food, etc. Then on the road to Boone, NC as I wanted to run the Blue Ridge Parkway down to Asheville. Had a great time on the 118 mile route. Loads of twisties opening up to views across the valleys. Plenty of other bikers up there too
After a long and frustrating evening looking for a campsite to plant the new tent and get some much needed sleep, I give up on 'under canvas' option and find a hotel instead. Also, when the hotel only costs slightly more than the campsites crazy pitch fee (KOA, I'm talking about you!) why wouldn't you?! Night all. First day on the TAT tomorrow. |
Checking in, after a day running through the mountains. Finally joined the ‘TAT’, at Mars Hill, NC. Every kind of road in the TAT so far, from smooth tarmac to deep soft cinder, often different around every corner! But stunning views to be found, and not enough traffic to be unable to look away from the road. Occasionally…
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1790/2...4956ecdc_k.jpg Strangely, one of the obstacles to look out for, after deer, rabbits and chipmunks (and the occasional snake) were box turtles. Who decided the tarmac was a great place to bask in the sun. Grapefruit sized 'organic' rocks, often just in the wrong place. Speaking of rocks, the Rally Raid engine guard earned its keep. Bouncing off a large rock that I couldn't lean round in time. An impressive ding in the metal, but not in the sump. So money well spent. Bike has done fine, even with an inexperienced rider and a lot of weight up high. Got my left foot scraped a couple of times on the twisties. Not bad for TKC 80's! Left the TAT at Maggies Valley, NC. Had a beer to cool down in town then headed up towards "Tail of the Dragon", with the intention of running it after all the 'yahoos' had gone home. But sense (and fatigue) won out and found a place to pitch up for night instead. Wasn't up for finding a place in the woods, but stumbled across the Iron Horse Resort Biker campsite and a good price (with WiFi though it very flaky). Ended up next to a group of Australians who are travelling the US on their trikes that's they shipped from 'down under'. New Cabelas tent went up. Quite impressed with it. Good quality and spacious. Plenty of room for my gear overnight if needed. More pictures at some point, but the WiFi here is patchy at best. |
Just checking in. Currently in Collingwood, TN at 04:30 loading up on carbs n coffee ready for the day ahead. Had a late start to the trail yesterday as I spent a 1/2 day in Lynchburg TN doing the Jack Daniels distillery tour and walking round town.
Then ride down to Huntsville, AL to find a new rear tyre. Mine was totally done, but I'd had no luck finding a TKC80 at any store along the way. Fortunately Cycle Gear in Huntsville had one. But... they don't remove the wheel. So, I strapped the bike to a tree in the parking lot, shoved an old car wheel under the engine guard and pulled the bike wheel off! As I started late, I ride on till sundown, and then kept riding. Rode 20 miles of the TAT, including 4 stream crossings, in the dark. Fortunately the £20 LED lights kick ass. Even got some good video, pics. But I really need to get my hands on a pc with a decent broadband. The WiFi I've used so far sucks. Pushing on today. Had an invite to meet the fella who created the TAT, Sam. Should get to him in a couple of days. Tracking site: UKJeeper does the USA, on a motorcycle! - UKJeeper - Social Hiking |
Just caught this thread. Wow, you were right in my neighborhood (Connecticut) while I was home visiting family.
Great RR. Keep us posted on the trip and safe travels. chug |
Nice Rides!
Too bad i didn't saw it before i started my trip. Could add some nice roads.
I rode from NYC to Canada, and back south, now in New Orleans headed west. BTW - it's not that hard to register a motorcycle in the us, especially in FL and CA. I got my bike and registered it in NY. Be sure to do the Dragon's Tail if you still around. and gulf beaches roads in FL if you headed there. |
Apologies. Keeping multiple sites updated while on the road is not easy, especially when you don't have access to a 'proper' pc.
So, here is a bunch of updates as I've made my way across the USA. I'm currently in Southern California, staying with family and having a couple of days off the TAT. I've taken a load of pictures, and put them in a Flickr album here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ukjeep...57696971574881 P 10/7/18 Hello, Tennessee! Took on and Survived riding the Tail of the Dragon. Amazing ride. NO-ONE on the road (in my direction) the whole way. Except one cager, who moved over quickly. Got it all on the 'faux pro', just have to find a way to upload it (along with my other vids). https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/846/41...3ea78af4_b.jpg Off the trail after a long day. From Tellico to Ducktown. Had the pleasure of meeting up with some other TAT'ers just before the water crossings, and between us we negotiated the water crossings before sticking together for the rest of the day. Unfortunately we became separated while hunting for gas (and beer!) in Ducktown. Hope to catch with them again somewhere down in the trail. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/835/41...ab8f2bb4_b.jpg Thanks for a fun day, my fellow adventurers. 11/7/18 Morning. Early start after spending the night at a USFS campsite near Calhoun, GA. Waiting on the sun to come up and I'll be heading out. Stopped at the top of Crockford Pigeon Mountain to take in the views. Jasper, TN.150 miles since this morning = lunchbreak. Hiding out from the sun, at least for a while. Bought a new horn for the CB500x as the one I'd put on there self ejected somewhere on the trail yesterday! Gonna try for Lynchburg this afternoon. Made it as far as Fayetteville, TN. And decided to hotel it for the night. This, turned out to be a smart choice, as I sit here watching the thunderstorm roll through the area. Moved the CB500X under the porch. Jack Daniels tour tomorrow. 12/7/18 Spent the morning at the Jack Daniels Distillery in Lynchburg, TN. A massive facility, but not surprising given the popularity of their products, 70% of which is exported around the world. Found a shop that had a tkc80, which I needed as the rear tyre was worn out, all the way down into Huntsville, Alabama. But.... they don't remove the wheel, I have to do it myself. Nearby tree, luggage straps and discarded old car wheel. No problem.... https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/833/41...71d68685_b.jpg 13/7/18 Good morning. Early start, so at the 'Hasti-mart" in Collingwood, TN loading up up on carbs n coffee. After the 1/2 day off, so I could visit the Jack Daniels distillery, and getting the rear tyre replaced, it was a very late start on the TAT. I made up for that by riding until sundown... And then riding some more! Managed 120 miles, the last 20 in the dark. Fortunately, those £20 LED lights are amazing. Crossed several streams, including Knob Creek, without incident. Got some great night run video too. Finally decided to find a spot to camp, but no USFS sites nearby. After finding a few potential places, none of which panned out (bad ground, large game trails, too many curious cars, etc) I stumbled across the car park for Sweetwater Trail, beside the Natches Trace Parkway. Which was perfect. Less chance of wildlife and far enough back the passing cars wouldn't see me. Also, did my good deed for the day by helping a farmer corral up some livestock that had decided to go for an evening stroll. He on his quad and me on the CB. Waiting for sun up and I'll be back on the road. Hello, Mississippi! State number ten on my tour. No cooler than the other nine have been, unfortunately, so sitting it out until we (the CB and I) lower our temperatures. Had a long run up to Jackson, TN from Counce, TN to meet a good friend of mine, Brent, in person after knowing him for years. Wasn't disappointed. New Albany, MS. Off the trail for minor repairs. The stock windshield fasteners have been beaten by the TAT. So, upgrading with some rubber and metal washers (spacers) with nylocks. Camp site found. In Pontotoc, MS. £10 for the night, and as I'm the only tent (in a sea of RV's) I get my own shower/toilet block Win, right? Yeah not so much. Mississippi's humidity is kicking my ass. The other 9 states were hot enough, but 63%, rising to 80%?! Even a simple trail fix earlier wiped me out. Battling a 450lb pig across the state while swimming in sweat from simply breathing is not an enjoyable prospect. I'm not here to prove anything, just have a good time. So, I may have to consider 'slabbing' (taking the highway over the trail) to somewhere more tolerable along the TAT. 14/7/18 Laundry done, in Pontotoc, MS. Currently in Oxford, MS, after meeting up with another CB500x rider, Chris Walters, and running the TAT from Danbury to Paris to Oxford. Which, as a European, sounds odd. Danbury (the original one) is adjacent to my home town! Had a great ride, and a much needed cold beer. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1822/4...8b68f796_b.jpg Crossed the Mississippi! Hello Arkansas! State number 11! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1787/4...241390c5_b.jpg So, Arkansas, it seems didn't like the British invasion. 2 miles in, and Mother Nature decided to throw me a welcome party. Thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain. Couldn't see 5 feet ahead. Finally got escorted to cover by a Sheriff. 15/7/18 Good morning, from downtown Beebe, Arkansas. Another early start but already worth it. Was taking pictures of the sunrise over the fields, when I saw a cropsprayer also getting an early start on the day, further down the road. Got closer and got a few pics across the field, until the plane broke off and headed away. I thought it was going to reload, but then it turned and flew straight back up the road towards me. He (or she) must have seen me taking pictures and wanted to give me a better shot! https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/838/42...a3203812_b.jpg When it came around again, i gave it the thumbs up and started on down the road. Only for the plane to loop round and we ended up having a drag race! Me on the tarmac and my unknown friend in the air. It's one of those moments. When you finally get home, tired, dusty and sad it's over. But then you'll remember. Remember that moment, that is yours and yours alone. And you'll nod, smile to yourself and think "yeah, that was TAT". Beaten by the heat. Bailed out of the Ozarks mountains at Hector, where it was showing 100f. I was overheating, bike was running its fan constantly and for 10 minutes every time I shut the engine down. So ran down the hill, to Clarksville. Only 70f. And there's a breeze! Siesta time. A 320+ mile day, due partly to the detour. But rode on till dark, and crossed into Oklahoma. State #12! Got back on the TAT at Mountainburg, Arkansas, caught out on the first big gravel hill climb and ended up with the bike sliding closer to the drop off with each attempt to move it. So, unloaded the bags and kickstand turned it downhill, reloaded the bags and made a successful 2nd hill climb. Followed the TAT through Westville, OK and into the hills where I setup camp, while noticing the occasional lighting flash from far away. Woke up early this morning and the gap between flash and bang was down to 14 seconds, then 9. So I 'decamped' back to Westville. Right choice as the rain began while I got coffee at the gas station. Going to wait here and see what happens. The doppler has activity about go right overhead. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/925/41...3d298b93_b.jpg 16/7/18 Waited for sun to rise at Westville. The sky brightened up all round... Except to the west, right over the TAT. Doppler showed a large mass to be travelling right through there. So I made the decision, to head north instead. Took the 59 up as far as Grove, OK. Then turned west. Was skirting round the rain, the leading edge of the storm perhaps, even up there. Didn't really have a plan, so just put the sun at my back to navigate by (made my 'enemy my friend' ?), turned off all the maps and just rode... Thataway. Eventually stumbled across Vinitia, which turned out to be part of Route 66, so I decided to' get my kicks' in that direction for a while before exploring some more. Later, I found myself on Route 11, so stuck to that. Its as straight as an arrow, pointing west, and definitely 'slabbing', but needed to stick to something for a while. Came across a massive wind farm, laid on the land that used to be covered in pump horses. The image, of the massive new turbines, standing over the bones of the old pumps pipes, and tanks really stuck me. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/842/42...afb1f82b_b.jpg The other thing that struck me, while being 'lost', on purpose, was that I needed this. I've been following lines on a map since I arrived. Whether Googles or Sam's, but not mine. And that's what I've been missing. I came with the intention of finding my way round the US, and I've instead been lead around. Which has not been a bad thing. But, I've realised, not MY thing. I'll pick back up on the TAT, but I needed today to get back on track. (so to speak...) 17/7/18 Rode from Liberal, OK to Dodge City, KS. Giving the CB some love after 4000 miles of US travel. Oil and filter change, chain scrub and lube, etc. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/848/43...fc05505b_b.jpg Then a very long slog from Dodge City to Colorado, with a short stayed in Pritchett, CO hiding out from another thunderstorm, before reaching Trinidad, CO. Staying at the “Trails End” motel. 18/7/18 Finally reached Trinidad, Colorado last night after what seemed like a never ending ride from Dodge City, Kansas. Very glad to have escaped the great plains and reached the next stage of the TAT. Hola from La Veta, CO. Great ride up from Trinidad following a leasurely start, laundry and breakfast. Much better temperatures than expected (so far..) 'Lost' my phone, twice, on the washboard roads. Found it, intact, both times (obviously!) but not using the faux ram mount, for now. Followed the TAT from La Veta all the way to where it connects to route 96. Jumped off there as Jenny Morgan had suggested a route up to Pikes Peak. However, due to the late start it was already 5:30 and would have taken me 1.5 hours in the wrong direction. So, slabbed through the canyons to Silver Cliff for fuel and frappucino (my TAT fuel stop drink of choice for some weird reason...) Going to push on to Salida through the small towns, just for a different view. 20/7/18 Spent the night in Silverton, CO, after getting over Cinnamon Pass (over 12,000 feet in altitude) https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/926/29...e07d40c0_b.jpg Set off slightly later than planned due to the owner of the camping store in town not showing up, so no food bought there! Got up and over Ophir Pass (also known as "OH, F...... EAR!) also over 11,000 up), a very rocky and steep trail with only a small amount of swearing. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/940/43...3e809518_b.jpg Continuing on after a short break to recover. So, after Ohfir Pass I went through the towns of Rico and Dolores. Which are not, surprisingly, named after Colorado's answer to Bonnie and Clyde. Took the tarmac partly to explore and partly to look for camping food. Rejoined the TAT at Dove Creek, crossing the Utah State line and continued on to the 3 step hideaway. A TAT stopoff. No-one was in at the time, so I played with the dogs until Scott and Julie, the owners, rolled up. Was great to meet them, Scott looked around in the barn for a rear tyre, as the tkc80 I bought in Huntsville, Alabama was already done. TKC80's, not TAT approved, imo. Great tyre, no longevity. So, on into Moab at Scott's recommendation, to Mad Bro motorsports. Who had both TKC80's and Shinko 805's in my size. I went with the Shinko this time. Should last the rest of the trip. Going to look for local bike trails that I can run, in the morning, before it gets stupid hot! 21/7/18 Up at sunrise this morning for a ride through Arches National Park. Avoided the crowds (and the $30 entrance fee, as the booths were still closed). Really worth doing. Rode the tarmac, and unpaved areas to the west of the park. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/938/29...75e834bc_b.jpg Heading down to Vegas, dived for cover when I saw a large storm coming, at Beaver, UT. So pulled over and found cover at a gas station. Later, near St George, I stopped to watch fire fighting airplanes over a brush fire. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/939/42...3db44330_b.jpg Eventually found my way down to Vegas. Long day, 450+ miles. Checked into a hotel and passed out. 22/7/18 Found this during the 'preflight' this morning. Tread separated from the tyre. How it didn't go pop during yesterday's 500 mile ride I don't know. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1825/4...417cd834_b.jpg My guardian angel is asking for a raise. Rode around the the bike shops in Vegas that were open on a Sunday, but my quest for a front tyre was a complete bust. No-one that was open in Vegas today had anything. Found a shop in San Bernardino, CA that has tkc80s, 225 miles away. However that's 225 miles along the road to L.A, my route. So, I rented a uhaul, strapped the bike in the back, and we're back on the road, heading south. Bonus; air conditioning! Turned a bad day into a good day. Found a solution to finding a tyre, and still continuing on the way to L.A. And got to meet Dan Cole, presenter and owner of the 4x4 podcast, along with Stephanie and the various smaller Coles. Thanks for meeting up and hanging out. 23/7/18 Made it! The shop in San Bernardino had the right tyre (TKC80), I even got free fitting and balancing after winning a bet with the tyre fitter. He didn't believe there wasn't an inner tube in my spoked wheel. I told him if he found one, I'd pay fitting and balancing. If he didn't, it would be free) Then onwards, to L.A. Time to chill for a couple of days. And I changed the chain and sprockets on the bike. Rear sprocket appeared to be OK, held up against the new one, but the chain and front sprocket were toast. |
Had a relaxing few days in L.A, seeing friends and family, before meeting up with an old friend who we had agreed to ride Mojave Road together. However, we quickly decided that idea was a bad one, as the area was experiencing 118f temperatures! So we decided to ride the PCH /Highway 1 up the coast.
Starting from Van Nuys, CA, We rode along Mullholland and up the PCH / highway 1 yesterday. No closures. A long days riding, but worth it. I've done highway 1 before, but a long time ago. So I'd forgotten how great the views are. Was surprisingly cold, almost the whole way up as the marine layer was a constant thing, along with a brisk wind. Had to wear my Alpinestar jacket, instead of the mesh vest, for the first time in weeks. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/848/41...f78a5643_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/851/42...4f8c65b0_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/849/43...45e50b05_b.jpg Made it all the way to Monterrey, where my friend remembered he had an old friend in the area. Who offered a room for the night. And much better option than camping after a day in the saddle. East, via Yosemite today. Hoping to avoid the fires, closures and entrance fee! |
Another long (400 miles) day of riding. Left Monteray early this morning and had to deal with multiple road closures getting onto the 120 through Yosemite, due to the fires.
Once in, the view was... restricted. The smoke reducing visibility down to about 1/2 mile. So not so much scenic views. Only one of the lesser half domes was visible, and only as it was right next to the road. The upside was that the forest service had closed the gate booths, so no having to pay to look at smog! Exiting at Lee Vining/395, the haze was still thick enough to spoil the views across Mono Lake, so I headed south, to June Lake to find the hotel Christine and I spent our first Xmas, 28 years ago. It was fully booked, as we're all other hotels in the town centre, so I rode a little further and found a.... not so nice place down the road. Was going to wild camp, but need a shower and bed. Another long day tomorrow before I get to the TAT. |
How's the trip going?
|
Quote:
So, here goes: 29 July Another long 'slab' today. 480 miles from June Lake, CA to Ely, NV via Reno and US Route 50. Which is billed as "the loneliest road into America". Probably because "400 miles of sweet FA to see" wouldn't have had the same draw. Literally mile upon mile of nothing. I almost began to miss the 'scenery' of Oklahoma. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/853/43...d6092ec8_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/932/42...d44aa2b1_b.jpg Almost... There are about 3 small towns along the whole route. One at either end and one in the middle. All relying on the passing tourists to stay alive, so I stopped in Austin (the halfway point) and had lunch at the diner. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/933/43...72735ac0_b.jpg BUT, this was probably the last long 'slab' (tarmac only) ride of the trip. As of tomorrow I'm back on the TAT! I was considering wild camping tonight, and had begun to check out potential sites by the side of the 50, until two decent sized coyotes strolled right through the most likely site. So, came into town (Ely) and stayed at the Hotel Nevada instead! https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/937/29...7a99c747_b.jpg |
30 July
Back, on the TAT. From Baker to West Wendover, NV. Following the route of the Pony Express along its path on US Route 50 yesterday and now north on 180 miles of gravel road. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1834/4...b873cd96_b.jpg Signed the visitor book at canyon camp, but disappointed to see another TAT'er thought it would be OK to sign the box the book is kept in... Stopped in Gold Hill, but don't think there's much gold there... https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/931/29...4b3e9ddd_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/940/29...bdfd0472_b.jpg And found, by chance, a WWii German Panzer by the roadside! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1775/2...a23a9aae_b.jpg |
31 July
More TAT miles. Wendover to Tremonton, UT. Trail north of Wendover was rough. So much washboard! But eventually smoothed out leaving a very pleasant gravel, mud and occasionally sandy ride. Watched the forest forest in hills to the north east, but far enough away not to be concerned. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/848/29...fbb440a2_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1832/4...259056b2_b.jpg Eventually reached Kelton. Originally a main line station for the Trans Pacific Railway, now almost nothing remains, except the ruins of the hotel and graveyard. Along the trail after leaving Kelton there are small placards showing where the smaller settlements along the railroad used to be. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1780/2...78963bd7_b.jpg Finally reached tarmac, after about 300 miles of gravel! Time for something to eat and a place to rest. Idaho tomorrow. |
1st August.
Hello, Idaho! Very nice ride up from Near Holbrook this morning. Stopping at American Falls for fuel and coffee (and one of the huge cinnamon rolls they make at The Ranch gas station!). After I crossed The Great Rift and made it to American Falls, I decided to go and see Craters of the Moon national park. Definitely a good choice. A must see if you come through here on the TAT. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/932/43...a3a4fe2f_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1883/3...f40499aa_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/850/43...7ebfbe52_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/857/43...6ec8de50_b.jpg My campsite was picked a little earlier than expected, just as I got to Challis national forest, the CB felt 'off'. Pulled over and found I had a flat rear tyre. Found a huge fence staple right in the middle of the tread. So, out with the Safety Seal plugs and compressor. No drama. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1859/4...0b46fdb8_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1837/3...faf62985_b.jpg So set up camp, right by the cattle grid entrance to Challis. There must be a fire somewhere nearby as there was ash falling all night, along with the ever pervasive smell of smoke. Set off at 7am to climb over the mountain pass. Stunning views on the way up, and the trail wasn't too challenging. But the views all the way down the back, to Ketchum! Amazing! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1896/4...a56ff788_b.jpg Rode from Ketchum along the 227, passing the road closed signs, to Smokey Bar Cafe. Got an update from Rick, a local, to say it's still fubar, so played it safe and dropped down to Fairfield. I know others have gotten through, in a group, to help carry their bikes. But I'm on my own and lugging 400lbs through washed out roads in 90f has ZERO appeal to me. So I headed down the hill to the convenience store in Fairfield, downing Gatorade and Cliff bars, watching the swarms of crickets. Fortunately I decided to just chill here, as for the first time on the trip, I left my wallet at the checkout! Rode up to Featherville, ID and found the only hotel in town. A very small town. I'd say a 'one horse town', but pretty sure even the horse has left. The heart of the town; the bar, hotel, shop and diner are all for sale as a job lot. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1852/4...404a57b6_b.jpg |
2nd August:
Rode over the mountains from Featherville, Idaho, to Idaho City this morning. Another great ride. The trail followed the river all the way to the dam with stunning views round every corner. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/938/29...35175720_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/938/42...43204783_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1795/4...1c8252e9_b.jpg Met up with two New Zealand visitors, in Idaho City, riding the TAT on their KTMs. And then two more TAT riders from MO. Good to know I'm not actually the only one on the trail, though it often feels like it. Pushed on, into Oregon, and spent the night on the 'beach' beside the Snake River. Idyllic. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1811/4...b5795f44_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1817/4...ccd7d75f_b.jpg Apart from the wind going crazy in the middle of the night. Had to take off the flysheet and let the air blow through the mesh inner. |
3rd August:
Came back down to Ontario, OR, for supplies, fuel, and laundry as the next sections seem quite remote. Then on to John Day, OR. Now this is the Oregon I remember! Once the TAT rose up and into the treeline, the scenery went from endless brown dusty hills into shaded forest land. Enjoyable climb up on decent trails, with just enough rough parts to keep you on your toes. And then the trail emerged onto the forest road. Loved that. Miles of smooth tarmac twisting through the trees. Like Blue Ridge Parkway again, but with zero traffic. Just keep a look out for the cattle, and what they leave on the road... A welcome relief, as I'd managed to step on a metal tent peg last night while wrestling with my accommodation in the wind, putting a hole in the bottom of my left foot, making gear changes while standing up painful. Arrived at John Day to find two other TAT'ers heading out. One from Germany and one from New Jersey. |
4th August:
John Day to Prineville to La Pine, OR. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1888/3...bd2c0237_b.jpg A strange weather day. Started out very cold, so cold I had to stop and warm up on the TAT. But by the time I reached Prineville, it was baking hot. Then up to the calderas (East and Paulina Lakes) where it was cold again and raining. Down to La Pine, hot again! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1820/2...a7fdda1a_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1817/2...310953e1_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1897/2...43f5430b_b.jpg Still, a lot of good trails. The rocks and ruts sections on the way to Prineville, then the Crooked River Highway being the best. Looked at camping up at the lakes, but way too busy. And cold and wet. So down here in the lowland looking for a site instead. After I just pulled a decking screw out of the rear tyre, and plugged it. Again... After plugging the rear tyre, I looked for a hotel in La Pine. No luck, all booked. So looked for a USFS campsite. First one was closed, second one was open. But, had a very weird vibe. Could have been because I got stuck, down to the rear axle, getting in. Could have been the homeless guy, sleeping in his car across the way. Could have been the procession of dodgy looking people driving up down the dirt road. Could have been that the very large ants figured out how to get into my tent within 3 minutes of putting it up. So, I bailed. And got stuck again, trying to get out. Repacked and looked for somewhere else. On the way south I looked back at the calderas where the nice campsites are. Clouded in a thick storm, with lightning. Glad I didn't stay there! https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1868/2...91ae11d9_b.jpg Finally arriving at an out of season Sno Park. In the dark. Found a spot and pitched up. |
5th August:
Woke up this morning, freezing cold. Got dressed and looked around in daylight. There was an unlocked warming hut 20' from my tent. Could have stayed in there and been warm! So, coffee and fuel down the road and back on the TAT. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/940/42...026b80e2_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/857/43...23b3e5c0_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/856/30...71be8636_b.jpg Jumped off at Crater Lake and did the tour. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1836/4...b0ced4e5_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/935/43...9c75bfdc_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/858/43...09d5b399_b.jpg Then headed to Tiller, OR, through thick smoke, fire camps and helicopter landing pads. Tiller was a ghost town. Didn't see a soul and the fuel station is closed. So shot down the hill to Canyonville, much needed fuel, and a hotel. |
6th August:
And so, here I am. The Pacific Coast. Port Orford. The end of the TAT. Five weeks, 9700 miles, 21 states. Feeling just a little bit stunned. Trip of a lifetime. And now it's done. https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1798/4...a0a0600a_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/941/30...d7238cc3_b.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1795/4...5af2cd19_b.jpg Almost anyway. Still 5 days before we (the bike and I) fly home. So, let's see what's between here and Vancouver! |
Awesome. Glad to see you made it safe and got to complete the trip as planned.
The TAT is on my bucket list. So care to field a few questions? Favorite leg of the trip? If you had to do it again would you wish for more time or was the 5 weeks enough? Happy with the choice of bike? Looks like you went with the tubeless option for the RR wheels. Like them? |
Quote:
East, and West both have their plus points, and sections that are just amazing to ride. Oklahoma you can just skip. Enter via Arkansas, and go straight through to Colorado. Idaho surprised me, in just how nice it was. The Eastern part was flatter and more farmland, then up into mountains and long views followed by scenic canyon runs. Next time, I'll go so much slower. I felt I rushed through, at least the first half, and missed a lot. I'll also do what I eventually did on the second half, which is NOT do all TAT, all the time. The TAT is a great trail, and probably one of the most interesting alternatives for going coast to coast. BUT, I did find that you don't get to see much of 'America' as you'd think. It does become endless days of trees 'n gravel and not much else. Which, for some, is fine. However if you want to explore America, the small towns, the people, the history, it's not the best way to do it. Use the TAT as a fun way to travel between places, but then get off and so SEE those places. In addition, getting on and off the TAT allows you to scoot ahead, creating more time to go explore, rather than plod along. The 6 weeks I took, (minus 1 week in L.A) is plenty of time. Again, if you find yourself short on time, jump ahead ('slab it'). You can ride the distance on tarmac in a couple of hours what it might take you a day on the TAT. Was I happy with the CB. Oh, absolutely. Slightly too heavy on places like Ophir Pass, but otherwise a good balance between tarmac muncher and dirt eater. Would slab all day at 80, or stroll through the woods at 30. And then just get up and go the next day. The engine guard took a beating, but did it's job of protecting the engine. RR said they've not seen one quite that.. used, and want to me to go up to see them for a 'post mortem', so they can see if changes are needed in future guards. Tubeless tyres were a good choice. Had to plug 3 holes while out there. Two at the same time (large staple). Much easier than pulling tubes out. Just plug, inflate, and go. |
Quote:
All good to hear and makes perfect sense. I've followed Jenny's TAT threads over on ADVr and she had said the same thing about the TAT. It's more of a rough guideline to go from one end to the other, but it pays to get off the trail and wander out in other directions. Glad you're happy with the CB. If you had the L2 kit, do you think that the bashplate would have fared better? Or you didn't really need the ground clearance in that respect? |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Thanks for the feedback. |
https://i1.wp.com/bloody-disgusting....89759247-1.gif
Still had 5 days before we (the bike and I) fly home. So, let’s see what happened between here and Vancouver! After crossing the ‘finish line’ at Port Orford, riding the bike down to the beach, spending 20 minutes digging the & #*£ing out and wrestling it back up the slope to safety, I looked for a place to eat. Found “TJ’s pub” just down the road. My initials are TJ! Karma? Then back on the road. Heading north, slowly, via the coastal loops. Stopping to take pics and explore. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030117.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030122.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030121.jpg Eventually the increasing marine layer, and decreasing cold, pushed me inland. So I dived off and took the 38, Umpqua River Road. Good choice. Very scenic canyon run with the river alongside. Bonus was the herds of Elk in the fields beside the road. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030127.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030126.jpg Was pushing for Eugene, but the hour was getting late, so pulled in at The Lucky Duck RV and campsite. Loads of RV’s, but the tent area is empty, clean, grassy and very close to a cell tower! (it’s also next to the 5 freeway, but hey ho). And while the camp warden/host trailer was right next to where I’d pitched up, he didn’t come over to collect the fee’s! |
8th August
Took more back roads up to Eugene, just a short distance from where I’d camped. I’d arranged to meet a friend that evening, so i explored downtown Eugene and wandered round the Natural History Museum, before finding a hotel to dump all my stuff for the night. Was a good evening out, at the Oakshire pub. 9th August Wandered up towards Portland, OR, via route 99w, and McMinville Museum. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_102114.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_102808.jpg I’m sticking to tarmac, despite many “hey ride these trails” suggestions. Mainly as I figured I’d ridden so far, successfully, over mountains and through deserts, far from help, without anything bad happening, I’d just be pushing my luck to try anything now, on the ‘final stretch’. I stayed in Portland for a couple days with more friends, who were nice enough to take me round and show me the highlights of the city and surroundings. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...809_110135.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030130.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...809_105934.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...809_140316.jpg |
10th August
Left Portland this morning, heading for the coast at Tillamook. From there, took the 101 north through miles of grey, damp, even cold weather. Marine layer in full effect. Finally turned inland around Aberdeen (no I wasn’t that lost, there’s an Aberdeen in Washington state too!) and headed to Seattle to meet a friend of mine I haven’t seen in 19 years. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...810_103929.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...810_111320.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...810_123126.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...810_125211.jpg Was great to catch up and have some dinner. Then I had to find a ‘wild’ camp for the night. Not an easy task as I had to get way east of Seattle, Snoqualmie, and trawl along a long gravel road filled with ‘weekend adventurers’ in the woods. Back into Seattle tomorrow for sightseeing. |
11th August
A fun day, exploring Seattle. Pikes Place Market, the original Starbucks, gum wall, Beacon Hill, Pioneer Square, downtown, and the Museum of Flight, before catching the ferry across Puget Sound to the peninsula and up to Port Angeles, WA. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_081827.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_070509.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_072211.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_081616.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...9/p1030148.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_123049.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_125146.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_122534.jpg Benefit of being a motorcycle on the Edmunds - Kingston Ferry, you jump to the front of the two hour queue! https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_155057.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_155713.jpg From the ferry terminal at Kingston, I rode up the 104 / 101 to Port Angeles. Followed by an eventful evening, tying to find SOMEWHERE, ANYWHERE to pitch the tent for the night, a Lady at one of the full campsites (Lyre River Campground) saw me riding up and down and offered me the pitch on her plot, as she was sleeping in her car that night. Very grateful to my stranger with a heart of gold, I set up next to the river for my last night in the USA. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...811_204050.jpg |
12 August
Today, I caught the ferry to Canada. Vancouver Island, then another ferry to Vancouver city. Where me and the bike will fly home from on Monday. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_074237.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_074158.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_094038.jpg From Victoria port, I headed north, along the Trans Canada Highway, taking great views across the Trincomali Channel and the islands, to Nanaimo and the 2nd ferry of the day, to Vancouver City. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_105306.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_123019.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_134843.jpg https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...812_150338.jpg I wish i’d had more time, to explore Victoria and Vancouver Island. But, isn’t that always the way? Just not enough time at the end, and so much still to see. Or maybe I just didn’t want it to be over. Hard to believe that the trip is almost over. Happy to be going home, and sad that the adventure is almost done. Its been an incredible 6 weeks. Tiring, exciting, frustrating and successful. And worth every moment. Even when I arrived in downtown Vancouver, and spent hours trying to find an affordable hotel, one that didn’t involve riding for yet more miles, I still considered it part of the ‘adventure’. Ok, maybe not at the time. At the time it involved a lot of swearing, frustration and finding a working free WiFi as my phone was rejecting Canadian cell phone signals again! However, my persistence paid off, as I stumbled across a YWCA hostel right in the heart of downtown, for a bargain price! Check in, dumped my stuff, and still had enough energy to take a walk around ‘Gastown’, a touristy/hipster part of the city, before getting my last nights sleep in North America. |
13th August.
Another walk around, then ride around downtown, before heading south towards the airport and Air Canada Cargo. One of the requirements for shipping is to have only a 1/4 tank of fuel. I had a 1/2 tank. This, unfortunately, is one of the ‘problems’ with the CB500X. It’s too damn economical! I had to ride, for miles, and miles, around Vancouver, before getting down to 1/4 tank (it was actually still 1/3rd of tank, but the gauge looked like a 1/4 tank, so good enough I hoped!) And then, there I was. Outside the Air Canada Cargo building, about to drop off my bike. And that’s it. Its over. And I realised: https://media.giphy.com/media/ezDAzKCksdZzW/giphy.gif But, go I did. Booked the bike in. Painless as before, as far as paperwork goes. So, thank you Air Canada. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...813_121735.jpg Conveniently enough, the cargo building is across from the passenger terminal. An easy walk. Checked myself in, boarded the flight, and saw my bike on the tarmac waiting to be loaded. All good. https://ukjeeperhome.files.wordpress...813_172337.jpg Yeah, notsomuch. Suddenly the plane was being pushed back, and I watched my bike, bag, and all my gear being left behind! Had a minor meltdown and the cabin crew said they would find out what happened. Turns out there wasn’t room on the plane, and it would be on the next flight. In 3 hours. Didn’t get much sleep on the flight ( I rarely do) and was in a foul mood when arriving at Heathrow, worried about my bike and gear. No one was being helpful in the terminal, which didn’t help my mood. My Lady took me out for lunch while we waited. Sorry Christine, for being a grump! Then back to Air Canada Cargo, who, to be fair, moved heaven and earth (and my bike) to get me and the CB reunited as soon as it landed. About 45 mins! A record? Turns out it was booked on the later flight anyway (read the small print!), but they had tried to put it on my flight. From there, the M25 (always a joy… ) and home. |
Great report. I loved the photos. Many memories. Thanks.
|
Agree. Enjoyed reading that and helpful insights too (i’m planning the TAT for 2020). Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
The guys at The Trail and Adventure Motorbike Podcast heard about my TAT adventure, earlier this year, and asked if I might like to have a chat about it. So, if you want to listen to me drone on for an hour, about bikes including the CB500X, helicopters and the trail, have a listen!
https://soundcloud.com/clive-barber/...ith-tim-cooper |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 16:40. |