Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/)

- Ride Tales (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/)

- - China ADV Riding (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/china-adv-riding-71234)

On Any Day #2.... quick weekend run over to Qiandaohu (Thousand Island Lake / Zhejiang) for some motorbiking and cycling

Qiandao Lake (Thousand Island Lake), a man-made lake located in Chun'an County, Zhejiang Province, China, was formed after the completion of the Xin'an River hydroelectric station in 1959. 1,078 large islands dot the lake and a few thousand smaller ones are scattered across it. The lake covers an area of 573 km² and has a storage capacity of 17.8 km³. The islands in the lake cover about 86 km².
Qiandao Lake is used to produce the Nongfu Spring brand of mineral water. It is also home to forests (over 90%), and islands. Its most popular islands include Bird Island, Snake Island, Monkey Island, Lock Island (featuring supposedly the world's biggest lock), and the Island to Remind You of Your Childhood.
The lake has made Zhejiang a popular area for tourists. As a result, housing development has increased in the area since the late 1990s.
The dam creating the lake is located at 29°29′01″N 119°12′48″E and is 105m tall with a crest length of 466m. Xin'an Dam was the first dam constructed in China with a height greater than 100m and its power plant has an installed capacity of 845 megawatt.

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"Shakedown Run" ....departing Shanghai late November 2015....
A shakedown is a period of testing or a trial journey undergone by a ship, aircraft or other vehicle and the team before being declared operational. Statistically, a proportion of the components will fail after a relatively short period of use, and those that survive this period can be expected to last for a much longer, and more importantly, predictable life-span.

Yangshuo (Yang Shuò / 24°47′N 110°30′E) is a popular tourist county and city near Guilin, Guangxi province. The small city is surrounded by karst mountains, winding rivers and beautiful scenery.
It serves as a fantastic base camp for further exploration, and motorbiking away from the touristy areas. Been here last some time in the late 90's as a good mate was working on a large project in Guilin.....
The area around Yangshuo is renowned throughout China, if not the whole world, (even making it into the backdrop of Star Wars Episode3), for its karst landscape where there are hundreds upon hundreds of limestone hills dotting the countryside.
The beautiful scenery here is a common subject of Chinese paintings as well as the inspiration for poetry. There are several popular areas for karst landscape sight-seeing which can be covered by river cruises, bamboo-raft cruises, cycling, trekking and combinations of the various transportation modes.

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Yangshuo region most renowned feature is its dramatic karst terrain. Rising sharply at odd angles, limestone peaks look like giant teeth growing out of the green plain. Karst topography is characterized by many caverns and sinkholes that form by the dissolution of limestone or other carbonate rocks. Florida and Virginia's Shenandoah Valley are good examples of where karst can be found in the United States. However, the topography looks completely different from that in China, thanks to conditions that exposed China's karst and eroded its softer limestone faster. The specific conditions for forming the magnificent topography of Guilin "are fourfold," according to Ray Beiersdorfer, a geologist at Youngstown State University in Ohio. "First, you need hard, compact carbonate rock. In Guilin / Yangshuo region, it's Devonian limestone. Secondly, you need strong uplift, in this case provided by the collision of India with Asia to form the Himalaya. Third, you need a Monsoon climate of high moisture during the warmest season. Finally, the area must not have been scoured by glaciers, which this region wasn't."

Two types of karst landscapes predominate around Guilin / Yangshuo area: fenglin or peak forest (isolated towers) and fengcong or peak cluster (linked-base towers). The two types may have evolved sequentially from peak forest to peak cluster, or they may have evolved simultaneously. Beiersdorfer described this landscape, which he saw during a recent visit to China: "China in general and the Guilin / Yangshuo area specifically boasts some of the most spectacular karst topography in the world".

Karst mountain ranges make a great backdrop while riding around the greater Yangshuo region ~ just following my nose, good thing it's not crooked...

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Through the karst mountains and the Seven Star Peaks made my way along the winding hilly roads. The landscape was inundated with kumquat trees. Covered in plastic wrap to protect them from the cold morning dew, the kumquats were juicy and delicious–unlike from any supermarket.
While stopped on the side of the road taking pictures, a passing farmer stopped and offered some cumquats. They were the most deliciously sweet kumquats I ever tasted. He explained that the farming areas around Baisha town were known as some of China’s largest kumquat producers.

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The Yulong River is a small tributary of the larger Li River in Southeastern Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region that runs through the major city of Guilin to Yangshuo.
The Yulong starts in Northern Yangshuo County near Litang and runs for over 35 kilometres through small villages of the Yulong River Valley, including Litang, Chaolong, Yima and Gaotian town, before emptying into the Li around the town of Ping Le.
Yulong is a shallow river of around 5 meters maximum depth and an average of 25 meters across. As it is not located near any industrial areas, it is clean enough for swimming, though some brownish surface foam is visible in eddys, probably the result of phosphate runoff from local villages.

Unlike the busy Li River, it has no motorized boat traffic and relies completely on bamboo rafts to ferry passengers downriver. This has become a popular tourist activity, with passengers beginning their journey at the Yulong Bridge, a 400-year-old stone bridge.
As the local government has improved local roads through the Yulong River Valley, biking has also become a popular tourist activity, as there are many quaint villages along the river, some offering bed and breakfast accommodation.

The Yulong is prone to sudden flooding, which is one of the reasons why there are not more places to stay close by. Local people have built breakwaters (weirs) every kilometer or so to allow their animals to cross the river, though many have fallen into disrepair. During the dry season (November–March), it is possible for people to walk across some of these weirs; otherwise it is necessary to hire local people to ferry passengers across for about RMB 10 per person.

The Yulong River Valley is very fertile, and its low-lying terrain is excellent for rice fields. In recent years, farmers have planted more cash crops such as pomelos, tangerines and mandarin oranges, which bring in more income than rice.
The valley is still agricultural, with few services or businesses outside of the small villages. The valley is accessible from the main Yangshuo highway through the village of Yi Ma, north at the Yulong Bridge and south at the Gong Nong Bridge. The river is approximately 7 kilometres south of Yangshuo town proper.

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Both XingPing and Fishing Village are often confused as being the same but while XingPing used to be fishing village (as all riverside towns used to be really) the real Fishing Village that made its international fame with a visit of Bill Clinton in 1998, is located on the east bank of the Li River, a 30 min. bamboo ride south from XingPing in the direction of Yangshuo. This ancient fishing village was founded during the Ming Dynasty in 1506. In this fishing village all traditional houses have been very well preserved and the special architecture of the buildings make the Fishing Village a very interesting place to visit. The main characteristics of their fishing techniques includes the use of bamboo rafts instead of wooden boats and cormorants to catch the fish.

What used to be sleepy riverside village, Xingping village has actually grown to Xingping town of which the old center can easily be explored in about 1 hour. Xingping has a long history and many buildings date back to the Qing and Ming dynasties. On local market days the town comes to life and can get quite busy with locals from the surrounding villages coming to buy and sell their produce. Restaurants and coffee shops sell the local specialty, beer fish, and local handicrafts which range from really cheap handmade jewellery, to joints of pork carved from local stone to crystalline honey which beekeepers will chip straight from the hive for you!

Xingping is the major starting point for the most scenic stretch of the Li River, which runs north and upstream to the small town of Yangdi. The scenery around Xingping is magnificent and you can take a walk out of town on a nice path which crosses a tributary of the Li River and takes you onto a smaller road that runs along the river. After about a 30 min walk from Xingping you will reach the spot where you can see the scenery immortalised on the national 20 RMB note. If you continue along this path you will get to the tiny village of Langshi. There you can board one of the small motorised rafts for a Li-river bamboo cruise up to Yangdi and afterwards by bus back to Yangshuo or to Guilin.

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bier
Beautiful pics, thanks so much for the intimate portraits of a ancient,
sophisticated, culture that's a dream ride for many of us.

In so many of the fotos with the Bad Duc starring, the juxtaposition of the
aggressive hyper modern styling of the Multi contrasted with the tranquil
canal side villages, especially with the bridges, half moon traditional styling,
is brilliant, just brilliant.

Max

Final dinner at Yangshuo "The Brew" (Austrian owned and managed), to satisfy that longing for a decent burger we all get after being on the road for certain amount of time ~ The Brew should be your only stop in Yangshuo....

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After Yangshuo (Guangx)i and Guangzhou (Guangdong) going South ~ general direction a tropical island as in the past years for another Moonshine Run~ the island apparently free of any MCM (muppet-clown-moron) around this time of the year.... nuff said'....
Writing this ride report, It seems like ages since I got off the ferry in Haikou / Hainan Island (December 2015) to begin the second stage of the Winter 2015 "Shakedown Run".

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From Haikou riding out to greater Chengmai county and beyond, cruising around Lingao, Houshui Bay, Lingaojiao (landing point of the China Liberation Army in Hainan) and along the coast line passing through fishing villages.

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Fushan ~ taste of earth, wind and fire..... Hainan coffee, as the locals say, tastes of earth, wind and fire. The secret lies in the local environment and processing methods that have been passed down through generations. Coffee arrived in Hainan in 1935 when Indonesian-Chinese Chen Xianzhang introduced robusta coffee to the Fushan area of Chengmai county.
With a latitude of 19 degrees north, Fushan has an annual average temperature of 23 C, sufficient sun, abundant rain and a red earth rich in minerals from volcanic ash, just like Hawaii, where kona coffee grows. The robusta thrived in this environment, evolving into a coffee with a unique fragrance.
Hainan coffee can be enjoyed with sugar or condensed milk, but the locals recommend it black with its fresh and earthy body. The last sip from the bottom of the cup can tantalize the taste buds with the flavor of earth, wind and fire. In my personal opinion as a coffee lover ~ Hainan coffee is like the classic espresso, but stronger and sometimes a tad to bitter....

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what a incredible thread!

Tonggu Ridge near Wenchang provides an easy escape from the busy downtown of Wenchang and have a stunning view on the coastline of Hainan island covered by hundreds of thousands of coconut trees.
Located along the rugged coastline near Longlou Town, Tonggu Ridge stretches more than 20km with 18 peaks. Its main peak stands at 338 meters and is the highest point in east Hainan.

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Until recently “Hainan Chicken,” a culinary specialty famous all over Asia, was Wenchang’s only claim to fame. However, this once small sleepy coastal city, located on Hainan Island’s east coast, is awakening. It is now the future home of China’s growing space program.

Wenchang Satellite Launch Center (WSLC), located in Wenchang, Hainan, China, is a former sub-orbital test center. It is China's fourth and southernmost space vehicle launch facility (spaceport). It has been specially selected for its low latitude, which is only 19 degrees north of the equator, which will allow for a substantial increase in payload, necessary for the future manned program, space station and deep space exploration program. Furthermore, it will be capable of launching the new heavy lift Long March 5 booster currently under development.
Unlike the space centers on the mainland whose rail tracks are too narrow to transport the new five meter core boosters, Wenchang will use its sea port for deliveries. Initial launches of the CZ-5 booster from Wenchang were, as of early 2008, expected in 2014, one year after the intended commissioning of the Wenchang Centre. Now it's already shifted to 2016 or even later - during 2017-2018. The CZ-5B (max payload to LEO) variant will fly around 2018. But CZ-5 carrier rocket was already shipped from North China's Tianjin port at 20 September 2015 for a rehearsal (some drills carried out on the launch pad that involves both the carrier rocket and a probe) of a scheduled Chang'e-5 lunar mission planned around 2017.

Boldly enquired about availability of space flight tickets at the entrance gate ~ but no luck, was told no pictures and after being escorted of the Tonggu Ridge mountain top by navy soldiers earlier that day refrained from serious picture taking...

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Wenchang Chicken is known throughout the province of Hainan. The most traditional way to prepare Wenchang Chicken is "white cutting", which involves immersing the chicken in almost boiling hot water and cooked to preserve its softness and tenderness. It is then eaten by dipping the pieces in a mixture of spices including chopped ginger and salt. The skin of Wenchang chicken is typically yellow, with an oily appearance, although the meat is somewhat drier and has more texture than battery chickens. This dish is also popular in mainland China, in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and other Southeast Asian countries named mostly = Hainanese Chicken Rice.

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Great Hainanese Chicken Rice Recipe = http://steamykitchen.com/5068-hainan...cken-rice.html

Yalong Bay along the coast to the mountain top overlooking the famous and always busy Nanshan Temple (literally: "South mountain temple") is a Buddhist temple located in Sanya, Hainan province, China.
The temple's name originates from a popular Buddhist expression (literally: "Good fortune is much as the East Sea; longevity is high as Nanshan").
Situated 40k's from Sanya City, Hainan Province, the Nanshan Temple ranks as one of the attractions in the Nanshan Culture Tourism Zone. Occupying an area of 400 mu (66 acres), it is the biggest Buddhist preaching site established since the founding of the People's Republic of China.

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WINTER 2015 "Shakedown Run" Southern China ~ very good times once again, really pleasant weather with balmy water for a surf or relaxed swim, skateboarding, solid great mountain and off-road riding, lets not forget outstanding very tasty and well prepared food.

Nothing comes close to that sensation of the tropical wind in your face, the million smells, the sh*t you've gotta dodge -- dogs, goats, buffalo, kids, scooters, trucks, spilled diesel and oil on the best curves, escaping coconuts, man-eating potholes -- I miss it all already ~ definitely will be back for some more Hainan Island cruising in the future...

The RELAXED WAY HOME from Hainan Island to Shanghai through different provinces with a bike cruising and exploring day at Mao-Town = Shaoshan....

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Shaoshan (Sháoshān) is a county-level city in Xiangtan, Hunan Province, noted as the birthplace of Mao Zedong, founder of the People's Republic of China. Shaoshan was an important base during the Chinese Communist Revolution.
Shaoshan, peviously known by many names including Qidu, Xi township and Qingtian, was a small farming town in records dating back to the early Qing Dynasty. Mao Zedong, later to be known as Chairman Mao was born in a farming house there on December 26, 1893 to a wealthy farming family.
He left the city in his early years but came back as leader for a week in 1966 to hold a conference in the purpose-built facility at Water Dripping Cave. Since Mao's death, Shaoshan has become a destination of pilgrimage to visit the roots of the defining figure of 20th Century Chinese history, and in turn those of the Communist Party.

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Mao Zedong's Former Residence was built in the late Qing Dynasty. It is located in Shaoshan Village of Shaoshan township in Shaoshan City, Xiangtan prefecture, Hunan Province, China. The building was the birthplace and childhood home of Mao Zedong, the first leader of the People's Republic of China.

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Chairman Mao memorabilia is available all over Shaoshan and villagers are cashing in by selling Mao memorabilia in form of key rings, paintings, snow globes and bronze busts

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Enjoying some excellent famous Chairman Mao’s Red-Braised Pork (Mao Shi Hong Shao Rou). Red-braised pork is a dish that in Hunan is inseparably bound up with the memory of Chairman Mao: many restaurants call it “The Mao Family’s red-braised pork.” Mao Zedong loved it, and insisted his Hunanese chefs cook it for him in Beijing. It’s a robust concoction, best eaten with plain steamed rice and simple stir-fried vegetables; the sweet, aromatic chunks of meat are irresistible.

There are several restaurants in the area boasting some of Chairman Mao's favourite foods- spicy pork and smelly tofu. However, it is important to note that these cater largely for domestic tourists, so you will be lucky to find a restaurant with a picture menu, let alone one in English.
Hunan cuisine is famously hot, so if you don't want adish red in colour from all the chili, its best to make it clear beforehand.

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Anyways, saying it once again ~ enjoyed the entire Winter 2015 "Shakedown Run" around greater Yangshuo (Guangxi) and Hainan Island ~ ready to tackle more adventures in the years to come.
Before I forget, the Sanya "Moonshine" Rum made it home all the way to Shanghai without any breakage or spillage.... cheers!!!!

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Well ~ the lovely internet and peoples opinions on public forums as the "How great is my new XxxX bike?" thread will go 200+ pages of complete newbies and know-it-all-and-better types talking about how much better their all new bike is compared to the old models.
Smoother, faster, somehow "tighter", less prone to failures, completely new, reliable beyond doubt. The greatest motorbike ever built. You can do practically anything on one. They will base all this on the 5 miles of dirt road they rode the day after they bought the new XxxX bike..

Got one of the proven and reliable ones again. Long story short ~ Halloween Day 2015, arrival of the "Evil Twin" BMW F8GS 2015 (supplied via BMW Motorrad Shanghai: F8GS bikes are assembled in Thailand BMW Factory for the Asian market) and the bike made a great starting base for a custom dual sport bike to my personal preferences. This is my second F8GS owned (first in ML China) and looking forward to some interesting and extensive cruising around the motherland after the recent extensive "Shakedown Run" in South China provinces was completed.

The TBR team took a professional approach again and modified the standard 2015 F8GS. Solid bike modifications, not performance enhancing wise. BMW F8GS "TBR Rally-Twin", no need for scenery blurring tear inducing grunt propelling you from corner to corner like an enraged gorilla on a coke fuelled bender accompanied by the growl of a good ol' L-twin unleashing angry ponies by the dozens...no. Nothing like that but the F8GS will do all the riding I will ask for ~ pretty sure....

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The low suspension bike was brought back to standard bike height with a BMW Comfort seat, Wilbers Suspension (front / rear) imported from Germany http://www.wilbers-shop.de build to my personal specs (weight / riding style) and BMW front fork dampers installed to replace the shorter ones.

Wilbers Rear Shock Type 641 Competition (adjustable / custom specification)
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Wilbers Fork Spring Progressive (custom specification)
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During the rear shock replacement installed some special custom hardware (olite bushings, spacers, 12.9 bolts, etc.) to the adjustable Wilbers rear shock to eliminate the bend rear frame syndrome the earlier F8GS generation was known for going hardcore off-roading fully loaded up. Easy as while having the bikes in pieces and cheap insurance and no worries later on....

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Finished some simple modifications as per list below but for sure its a never-ending story as usual with TBR motorbikes....

ADV-SPEC / UK = http://www.adventure-spec.com
Alloy Bashplate

ALTRIDER/ USA = http://www.altrider.com
Chain Guard, Rear Brake Master Cylinder Guard. Rear Exhaust Guard, Radiator Guard, Universal Exhaust Header Guard, Rear Brake Reservoir Guard, Luggage Rack, Side Stand Foot Plate.

TOURATECH / GERMANY = http://www.touratech.com.au
Adjustable Gear Lever, Adjustable Brake Lever (rear), ABS Sensor Protection, Radiator Bracket, Brake Fluid Reservoir Guard, Footpads, Pinion Gear (Sprocket) Guard.

CLEARWATER LED LIGHTS / USA = https://www.clearwaterlights.com
Darla LED Light Kit

HEPCO & BECKER / GERMANY = http://motorrad.hepco-becker.de/index.php/en
Lock-It Side Carrier, Centre Stand Kit, Engine Crash Guards, Tank Guard, Headlight Guard Kit

BARKBUSTERS / AUSTRALIA = http://www.barkbusters.net
Hand Guards

BRITANNIA COMPOSITES / CANADA = http://www.britanniacomposites.com
Mirage 2 Fairing (added a Powerlet Socket and Garmin Cradle)

MachineartMoto = http://machineartmoto.com
MudSling (rear fender extender)

DOUBLETAKE MIRRORS / USA = https://www.doubletakemirror.com
Mirrors (folding)

MSC PRODUCTS AUSTRALIA = https://www.rallemoto.com
Steering Damper

METZELER TIRES = http://www.metzeler.com
Metzeler Karoo 3 Tires

ROTOPAX = http://www.rotopax.com
Fuel Pack (1 gal.) with lockable mount

Alpina Wheels = http://www.alpinaraggi.it
Front / Rear Wheel Set (tubeless)

Two important final pieces of the F8GS puzzle arrived shortly after the 2015 Chinese New Year public holidays and just installed with Metzeler Karoo 3 = ALPINA tubeless wheels... rock & ride on ~ keep on pluggin' them tyres....nuff said'....

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Every morning you have two choices, continue to sleep with your dreams or wake up and chase them. Thanks to all for the reminders to live life! It's too easy to get sucked up into things that don't matter and wander around not accomplishing any of ones dreams. I make it a point to take trips throughout the year that allow me to live and I'm slowly but very steady weeding things and individuals out that try to suck up my happiness ~ screw em' as I live more in 5 minutes on my motorcycle than some people live in a lifetime...............

March 2016, made my way to Yunnan province starting my trail...

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Yunnan is the most southwestern province in China, with the Tropic of Cancer running through its southern part. The province has an area of 394,100 square kilometres, 4.1% of the nation's total. The northern part of the province forms part of the Yunnan–Guizhou Plateau. The province borders Guangxi and Guizhou in the east, Sichuan in the north, and the Tibet Autonomous Region in the northwest. It shares a border of 4,060 kilometres with Burma in the west, Laos in the south and Vietnam in the southeast.Most of the population lives in the eastern part of the province. In the west, the altitude can vary from the mountain peaks to river valleys as much as 3,000 metres. Yunnan is rich in natural resources and has the largest diversity of plant life in China. Of the approximately 30,000 species of higher plants in China, Yunnan has perhaps 17,000 or more. Yunnan's reserves of aluminium, lead, zinc and tin are the largest in China, and there are also major reserves of copperand nickel. The Han Empire first recorded diplomatic relations with the province at the end of the 2nd century BCE. It became the seat of a Tibeto-Burman-speaking kingdom of Nanzhao in the 8th century CE. Nanzhao was multi-ethnic, but the elite most likely spoke a northern dialect of Yi. The Mongols conquered the region in the 13th century, with local control exercised by warlords until the 1930s. As with other parts of China's southwest, Japanese occupation in the north during World War II forced a migration of majority Han people into the region. Ethnic minorities in Yunnan account for about 34 percent of its total population. Major ethnic groups include Yi, Bai, Hani, Zhuang, Dai and Miao.

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First stopover in Dali, formerly known as Tali, is the county-level seat of the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture in northwestern Yunnan and is one of the most popular spots for independent China travellers and hugely popular with those studying and working in southern China. About 50 min. by plane or 4-5 hrs by bus from Kunming (Yunnan's capital), Dali is considered by some the perfect place to relax in southern China. Dali is the seat of Dali Prefecture and includes Dali New City and Dali Old Town. When discussing or travelling to "Dali", it's important to be clear which you are talking about. Xiaguan is usually where transportation to "Dali" arrives but is a common standard industrial Chinese city. Tourists are usually trying to get to the Old Town, which is famed for its traditional architecture, beautiful scenery (the dramatic Cangshan Mountain range, Erhai Lake and small handworked fields of pleasantly varied produce), minority cultures (mostly Bai but also Yi and Hui), and nightlife. There is also much to see and do in the surrounding countryside but to my eyes, the whole region became just another tacky tourist destination, even more compared to my last visit during May 2003.....

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Anyhow ~ long story short and let the pictures do the talking again, as I had time to spare, took a relaxing afternoon bike cruise around Erhai Lake, an alpine fault lake in Yunnan province, China. Its name means "Ear-shaped Sea", due to its shape as seen by locals and travellers also known as Yeyuze or Kunming Lake in ancient times.

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Well ~ how to describe in simple written words, the Lijianification of Shaxi?

The term ‘Lijianification’ describes the process by which a rural small ancient town is developed into a travel destination and where locals do not reap the economic benefits of this development because most of the guesthouses / hotels and stores’ owners actually come from outside Yunnan province. Shanxi is actually small, most bulk of the tourists come in groups by bus from Lijiang / Dali as Shaxi is halfway between the larger very popular touristy towns (typical tacky Mainland China tourist circus), spend one hour running through the ancient Shaxi cobblestone streets.
They want to get a perfect shot of the old theatre / town square and eventually sit down in one of the multiple cafes before going back to their base. Some tourists do stay overnight in Shaxi to enjoy the quietness of this old trade post on the ancient Tea and Horse road once the tour groups are gone.
Shaxi, tourism is burgeoning and flourishing. Guesthouses and foreigner-friendly cafes with menus in English have sprung up in the old streets. Shaxi is becoming another of these cosmopolitan travel destinations in rural China where tourists can forget about the local beer and local dishes. You can now sip a mojito and wait for your pizza while gazing at the old Sideng theatre.

Really enjoyed Shaxi old town square every day of my stay after around 16:00hrs. sitting in the Old Tree Cafe (Siding Square) enjoying freshly Yunnan brewed coffee as only the locals around, all them annoying loud mouthed tourists are gone and forgotten....
The Old Tree Cafe is run by Auntie Chang and Uncle Zheng, a retied couple and they established the Old Tree in 2005, true restaurant pioneers in Shaxi! Their location coulldn't be better for those who want to enjoy the activities around Sideng Square. The Old Tree is in a corner of the square just adjacent to the Baoxing Temple with a few outdoor tables.

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“Lijiang is like the Chinatown of China”
As how I describe the tacky and touristy city for many years, blasting through parts of Lijiang outskirts avoiding downtown and the surrounding "tourist attractions" like Tiger Leaping Gorge / Baishuitai Terraces since my last visit 2008 as they don't do much for me anymore after several lists with mates and family.....

Next destination stopover, Shangrila (Xiānggélǐlā; formerly Zhongdian known as Gyalthang in Tibetan) is in Yunnan Province, confused with all them names and changes yet?!

The town is split between Tibetan and ethnic Han residents, as well as a fair smattering of Naxi, Bai, Yi and Lisu, with the surrounding countryside entirely Tibetan. While the crass name change in 2001 was a sign of the desire for increasing mass tourism ala Lijiang, the town has got nowhere near Lijiang's crowds yet but soon will once the new train under construction will be operational around early 2018. Nowadays, it's still possible to experience the area's Tibetan heritage and see gorgeous countryside in near isolation.
Zhongdian was renamed Shangrila for marketing reasons. Signs in bus stations may still use Zhongdian. There is also a third name in Tibetan, Gyelthang but this is not used officially anymore. The original Shangrila, from James Hilton's novel The Lost Horizon, was a (fictional) hidden paradise whose inhabitants lived for centuries. Hilton (who never went to China just for info) located his Shangri-La in the Kunlun mountains. However, elements of his story were apparently inspired by National Geographic articles about various places in eastern Tibet (including Zhongdian); hence China's rationale for claiming the name.Local Khampa Tibetans claim that the name Shangrila was most likely derived from their word for paradise "Shambala," by Hilton through exposure to Rock's writings on the region.

Visiting Ganden Sumtsenling Monastery, also known as Sungtseling and Guihuasi (Chinese: Sōngzànlín Sì), is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery situated 5 kilometres from the city of Zhongdian (Shangrila) at elevation 3,380 metres in Yunnan province, China. Built in 1679, the monastery is the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan province and is sometimes referred to as the Little Potala Palace. Located in the capital of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, it is also the most important monastery in southwest China.
It belongs to the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism of the Gelukpa order of the Dalai Lama. The Fifth Dalai Lama's Buddhist visionary zeal established the monastery in Zhongdian, in 1679. Its architecture is a fusion of the Tibetan and Han Chinese. It was extensively damaged in the Cultural Revolution and subsequently rebuilt in 1983; at its peak, the monastery contained accommodation for 2,000 monks; it currently accommodates in its rebuilt structures 700 monks in 200 associated houses.

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Just a few very simple pictures taken during a walkabout ~ Shangrila "Old Town" (Dukezong), the highlight of the walk is the worlds largest spinning prayer wheel atop a hill overlooking "Old Town" standing at a height of 24 metres. A big part of the Shangrila "Old Town" burnt down on January 11, 2014. It is in the process of being reconstructed and many parts of the old city are still not finished despite the official re-launch and opening on 1st. January 2016. Many of the traditional old houses and parts of Dukezong (Shangrila Old Town) have been replaced now with concrete buildings housing shops / restaurants in the future years, many properties are still empty.
Once the Lijiang > Shangrila train service starts early 2018, the domestic tourist hordes will arrive and Shangrila town will be going the "‘Lijianification" route as well.

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Most outstanding TBR independent restaurant award goes to COMPASS Cafe & Lodge Shangrila, a Singaporean owned and operated business just outside the "Old City" district, very enjoyable lunch break.
Serves excellent authentic western food and delicious cakes, equiped with a professional coffee / espresso machine for great hot caffeinated drinks. They got a bakery "In & Out" next door selling breads, muffins and other savouries.
Compass Cafe & Lodge = http://www.thecompass.asia

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Compass Cafe & Lodge, had food + coffee a few times, only took pictures once, definitely worth stopping by for break while around Shangrila.......

Yak, they are present everywhere in the region, either roaming the grasslands fully assembled or on display in restaurants and shops in parts...

The Yak is a long-haired bovid found throughout the Himalaya region of southern Central Asia, the Tibetan Plateau and as far north as Mongolia and Russia. Most yaks are domesticated Bos grunniens. There is also a small, vulnerable population of wild yaks, Bos mutus.
English word "Yak" is a loan originating from Tibetan: གཡག་, Wylie: g.yag – in Tibetan this refers only to the male of the species, the female being called Tibetan: འབྲི་, Wylie: 'bri or nak. In English, as in most other languages which have borrowed the word, "yak" is usually used for both sexes.

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Chasing Yak during the day and have them for dinner as burgers or ribs ~ priceless...
Delicious Yak dishes below were expertly prepared by the talented Chef's at Hylandia Hotel (Shangri-La International Hotel Group).

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Some White Horse Pass region pictures above show sections on the mountains of the narrow old G214 Yunnan > Tibet Highway, the old road carved into the mountain sides is still visible, brings back some good old memories from many moons ago as I have been riding here before....
The China National Highway 214 (G214) runs from Xining, Qinghai to Jinghong, Yunnan. It is approx. 3,256 kilometres in total length and runs south from Xining towards Tibet, and ends in Yunnan Province.
The approx. 720km stretch of the Yunnan–Tibet Highway (G214) goes from Dali to Markam, where it interlinks with the G318 Sichuan–Tibet Highway (G318 National Highway goes from Shanghai all the way to Kathmandu crossing the entire country East to West). The G214 Highway is the most scenic route to approach Tibet (TAR) in my opinion as the road runs through many minority areas and crosses the Hengduan Mountains and Jinsha River (the upper reaches of the Yangtze River).

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Kham (Tibet) region has a rugged terrain characterized by mountain ridges and gorges running from northwest to southeast, and collectively known as the Hengduan Mountains. Numerous rivers, including the Mekong, Yangtze, Yalong Jiang, and the Salween flow through Kham.
Under the modern administrative division of the People's Republic of China, Kham comprises a total of 50 contemporary counties, which have been incorporated into the Chinese provinces of Sichuan (16 counties), Yunnan (3 counties), and Qinghai (6 counties) as well as the eastern portion of the Tibet Autonomous Region (25 counties).
It held the status of "special administrative district" until 1939, when it became an official Chinese province. Its provincial status was nominal and without much cohesion, like most of China's territory during the time of Japanese invasion and civil war. The natives of the Kham region are called Khampas.

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Deqin prefecture is where the big mountains are to be found with impossibly steep valleys, mind-blowing vistas, remote monasteries. In fact the best time to trek up is during the winter months as summer is the rainy season. Many say, March is the worst month as the rains start but it's still cold enough so it comes down as snow. This is the month to get snowed in. Well ~ don't agree as during my March ride and multi day stay the sky is a deep ultramarine blue that make one think of outer space. It’s not simply something about a high elevation; the height at these latitudes creates an entirely different type of sky colour in my opinion....

Kawagarpo Mountain ~ it's not a place it's a special spiritual feeling....

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Kawagarpo Mountain is the high point in a range of high peaks and one of the most sacred mountains for Tibetan Buddhism as the spiritual home of a warrior god of the same name. It is visited by 20,000 pilgrims each year from throughout the Tibetan world, many pilgrims circumambulate the peak, an arduous 240km trek. Although it is important throughout Tibetan Buddhism, it is the local Tibetans that are the day-to-day guardians and stewards of Kawagarbo, both the deity and the mountain.

The ancestral religion of the Kawagarpo area, as in much of Tibet, was Bön, a shamanistic tradition based on the concept of a world pervaded by good and evil spirits. Bön encompassed numerous deities and spirits which are still recognized today, and are often connected with specific geographical localities and natural features; the major mountain peaks in the Hengduan Mountains are thus all identified with specific deities. Kawagarbo is one of these. Since its introduction, Tibetan Buddhism has been the dominant religion of the Kawagarbo area, with followers of Gelugpa doctrine being the most common.Tibetans believe the warrior god will leave them if human sets foot on the peak of Kawakarpo, making the ground unholy. Disasters will follow as they lose god's protection. Tibetans have also established a centuries-old sacred geography around the peak, maintained by religious leaders from local monasteries in negotiation with local villages. This sacred natural site preserves the natural resources and ecological health of the mountain range.

The Kora, the clockwise trek around the Kawagarpo Mountain range is a spectacular adventure: The trail leads through different vegetation zones from blooming alpine meadows to thick and species rich forests. Plenty of breathtaking view points allow amazing sights of the snow-covered steep mountains. The trek (Kora) itself starts at a suspension bridge across the Mekong in the village Yangtsa (100km south of Deqen) and ends at the Mekong in the village Meilixi (70km north of Deqen).
However, the trek requires good physical condition and self-confidence in walking in remote regions on lonely paths. It is recommended to tackle the Kora as 12-stage hike across six high passes with altitudes way above 3000 m. Most of the time, over-nights (average 10 nights) need to be planned ahead as staying in tents, sometimes in the simple settlements along the Kora trek it's possible to stay in private guest houses.

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Kawagarpo Mountain climbing, the most prominent peaks of the mountain range are: Kawagarpo (6740m), Cogar Laka (6509m), Magai Laka (6400m), Nairi Denka (6379m), Godai Laka (6108m), Miancimu (6054m), Xaiunang (6000m), Gyalwarigng (5470m).
The first attempt on Kawakarpo was made in 1987 by a party from the Joetsu Alpine Club of Japan. In the winter of 1990–91 a group from the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University attempted the peak in conjunction with a Chinese group. Their activity caused heavy protests from the local Tibetan community due to the mountain's cultural and religious significance. On 3 January 1991, a nighttime avalanche killed all seventeen members of the expedition, in one of the most deadly mountaineering accidents in history. The Kyoto club returned in 1996 to make another unsuccessful attempt.
American expeditions, led by Nicholas Clinch, visited the range in 1988, 1989, 1992, and 1993, attempting other major peaks, but were unsuccessful. In 2001, local government passed laws banning all future climbing attempts on cultural and religious grounds. As of today, none of the significant other peaks of the range (Cogar Laka, Minacimu, Gyalwarigng) have been successfully climbed.

The entire Kawagarpo Mountain Kora is too much, up for a Kawagarpo Mountain - Yubeng village hike...???

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Exploring the deep valleys and mountain roads around the Kawagarpo Mountain region working from pointers given by locals and with some Mingyong Glacier GPS co-ords provided by a friend and contact in the area. There is no real maintained trail to the actual glacier. However, you can find a few more or less prominent trails used by locals and try to hike in to the glacier, never tried. The trails unfortunately not accessible with a heavy motorbike for various reasons (ice / mud / narrow gaps).
Reached the "official" entrance (checkpoint with a small parking lot) to the Mingyong Glacier area below Kawagarpo Mountain but somehow must have upset the two uniformed guards as coming down a steep mountain gravel road, the road had no gates (entry tickets / checkpoints) of any sort.
Was informed rudely that the Mingyong Glacier is closed for visitors during the week as low season. Spot on ~ your just pissed I came over the mountains not using the designated tarmac roads, no further questions and discussions ~ cruising onwards really enjoying the ride and great weather....

Just as general info, no close up pictures, the Mingyong Glacier descends steeply from the east face of Kawagarbo into the Mekong River valley on the Yunnan side of the massif. Because it descends from near the summit of Kawagarbo, it is also considered sacred by Tibetan Buddhists and two temples are located along its lower edge. From those temples, the rapid retreat of Mingyong Glacier is obvious, especially to local people who observe it year in and year out.....

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