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From Russia. Around the world - THE WAY
" I'm going on a trip around the world!
I have to travel the world, visit the most hidden corners of the planet. I do not want to rush, but my plan will be implemented within two and a half years. My name is Oleg Kharitonov. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4347647/ I was born in Russia and live in Moscow. I did exhibitions, was engaged in advertising and real estate. I have a son and I have a daughter. I have a lot of responsibilities, problems and obligations. I have nothing to go on a long trip around the world. I will leave in the summer of 2014 and return in the fall of 2016. Now, to leave, you need to do a lot. I will have to completely turn everything in my usual life. And do it today. " So I wrote on Facebook in the fall of 2013. http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/khari...631558_800.jpg I left Moscow on August 20, 2014. The idea was to see the whole world. The best way to do this is by bike. Nine months have passed from my dream to the start. I nurtured this idea for three months and prepared for the launch for six months. The last three months before the start were the hardest for me. When the idea arose, I made a list of what you need for a round-the-world trip. There were many items in the notebook, the most important of them were: 1. Motorcycle 2. Bicycle driving license 3. Money (a lot of money) 4. Ability to manage enduro (I wanted to ride where there are no roads) 5. Knowledge of English 6. Long-distance travel experience 7. Outfit And another 500 different items. When the list was ready, I added + to what I already had. I was able to put only 10 pluses in front of such items: toothbrush, socks, underpants and a lighter. I had nothing more to go around the world ... Everything pointed to the fact that my dream is unrealizable. But I didn't believe it. I really wanted to, and the world turned to face me. I bought my bike in December and got my driver's license right before I left. My friends taught me how to ride enduro and I managed to find some money and sponsors. I managed to complete all the preparations on time, but it was much more difficult than you can imagine. When I started, I was 43 years old. I will travel all over the world to reach the most remote and wild places. I plan to travel over 150,000 km and cross 5 continents in 800 days. My English is very bad, so I translate with Google...)) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4349853/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4349877/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4350349/ ................ It's like a time machine. It's been 8 years. This trip completely changed my life. Perhaps it was another life that God gave me. Then I planned that I would return in 800 days and travel to 65 countries. Everything turned out to be much longer, larger and more complex. I think my experience will help those who are going to completely change their lives. To be continued.. |
Everything you need to know before reading to understand:
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4343731/
Who am I? https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...w-jpg.4343729/ I was born in 1971 in the USSR My parents were too young to properly raise me. They did not have enough time, and they sent me to a kindergarten, where I stayed around the clock, 5 days a week. At the age of 5, I ran away from kindergarten. It was winter, I returned home when I was cold and it was dark outside. This was my first solo trip. The next year, in winter, they sent me to a children's sanatorium in the Caucasus. There I persuaded a friend, and we fled. I had a plan: it was necessary to build a aerosleds in the forest and go home to Moscow. We did not die in the winter mountains, because they found us before dark. I saved up money for a long time and at the age of 15 I bought a Karpaty Sport moped (50cm3) made in the USSR. I did a lot of work on it to make it look like a dirt bike, I put a huge rear sprocket on it and even an extra third ring on the piston, but my mother didn't appreciate it. When she saw a moped next to my bed, she decided to kick him out of the house, so I left with him. I dragged him to the roof of our high-rise building in Moscow, built a hut (it’s a pity there was no YouTube then) and lived there with him for a whole month until the police arrested me. I had bad documents for a moped and it was confiscated. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...t-jpg.4347373/ At 18, I realized that I was bored with my friends. The day after my birthday, I boarded a plane and flew to work in Bashkiria. I wanted to earn money for a motorcycle. Then the best thing that was sold in the USSR was the Java 350 motorcycle. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4347561/ I worked as a cook on the Ufa-Orenburg highway. This road looked very romantic, especially at night. I watched cars and trucks go by and envied the drivers. Then I returned, and Moscow life dragged me into its nets. Then the USSR collapsed, Russia was going through difficult times. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4347445/ I didn't buy a motorcycle. I was still a terrible adventurer, but my ideas were far from the romance of wandering now. Before 35, I fell in love. She was the most beautiful and the best woman in the world! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4359211/ It was she who took me abroad for the first time. We traveled from country to country and then I realized that the world is huge and seeing it all is a must. She was just as crazy as me. Life boiled around us and we rushed through it like whirlwinds. She died in 2008. Exactly three years after we met. From that moment on, my adventurism and thirst for adventure disappeared. I turned into a boring layman with an extinct look. Life returned 5 years later, when the idea of a trip around the world appeared. My phone began to ring frequently again, and again everything spun around! For the first time since her death, I was truly happy! |
15.12.2013 Path selection:
It took me two months to put this sinuous line on the map
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4350117/ Everything turned out to be not so simple. It turned out that I completely forgot geography. That in order to understand which road to take, you need not only to find it on the map, but also read tons of background information, study dozens of thematic forums and reports of those who have passed these roads. I have to go for many months and the situation in the world is changing too rapidly, so even a carefully designed route is just a rough plan. The movements between the continents are not displayed - there is still a lot of unclear. I will write about this separately. Prehistory: Once my son and I traveled half of Europe on a bicycle. Our path lay from Berlin to Paris and through the Alps ended in Prague. We rode without preparation and training. We learned everything along the way. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...e-jpg.4350111/ The idea has been in the air for a long time, but it turned into a kind of dream after my trip with my son in tandem. But at that moment my ambitions were more modest. I dreamed of riding a motorcycle from Moscow to Beijing through Mongolia, together with my friend Sergey Lyubchenko, after I watched this movie: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4351893/ We decided to buy two XTZ 750 Super Tenere motorcycles, take a year of preparation and hit the road. But those were just dreams and words… None of us really did anything to make this happen. Once he called and said - “.. go alone. I can not. A lot of work.." I took a map, a marker, opened the Internet and began to study the route. It turned out that this is not possible due to China's policy towards travelers on motorcycles. They want crazy money for entry and you have to go with an escort ... (( Then I decided to go around China and started drawing on the map. I didn't know where the line should stop. Every country she ran into I wanted to visit. This happened when I was 42 years old. I must have had a midlife crisis, thinking all the time that I hadn't done anything special in my life that I could write a book about. And when I finished drawing the line on the map, I put the marker aside and looked at what happened. A chill went down my spine… It was something to write a book about! Within a few days, I couldn't think of anything else. All my thoughts were completely captured by the main adventure of my life. As a result, the path had a length of 150,000 km. According to my calculations, I had to complete it in 800 days - it was a beautiful figure, but it scared me a lot. Never in my life have I been away for so long. (During the journey, my route has changed. The time has also changed a lot) Countries At the moment it turns out 65 countries. Some will have to go through more than once. No South Africa yet. In general, much is not clear with Africa. The continent today is the most unstable. It is pointless to even guess which way I will move there today. I want to go to Tibet for sure! But, the Chinese will not let on a motorcycle. Probably, me will have to leave the motorcycle in Nepal and hitchhike there. Japan - I planned, but now I doubt it. Probably better to visit it separately later. It's too expensive and they don't accept Russian driving licenses. Below I have indicated the countries along the proposed route. In this list, I did not indicate the countries through which I plan to pass twice. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...r-jpg.4350285/ I'm looking at the list I just made. Makes me think... I try to imagine myself somewhere in the middle of the road. As it will be..? How will I get back? . |
25.10.2013 Preparation
So, we can say that the journey has begun.
Preparation is the most important part of the trip and probably the most responsible. Now it is clear how and where two years of my journey will pass. It's good when you have a lot of experience and you know exactly where to start and what to do. What I lack in experience I make up for in a high degree of adventurism. There are people who, in my situation, will do it simply: they will buy a suitable bike in a motorcycle store, buy equipment there, draw a route and hit the road. This is not my case... I always need to understand all the details. You need to be sure that all the technical details are known and prepared in a unique way, which I consider the height of perfection. I can't just buy a bike and ride. I will definitely change everything for myself, for my understanding of technical perfection. It is inappropriate to trust a motorcycle shop consultant and buy everything at once. I will sit on the Internet for days, studying the nuances of technology and user experience, until I find something truly extraordinary. In a word, a perfectionist. In this blog you can watch the pangs of choice. And not just motorcycles and equipment. This will include everything I need on this journey. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4344611/ Your opinions, advice and participation are important to me! Because this journey is only called "single". Without the support of friends, the THE WAY project will fail. It is very important to know that what I started is also interesting to someone. "..Happiness is possible only when there is someone to share it with.." . Christopher Johnson McCandless (Alexander Supertramp) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...p-jpg.4344483/ |
05.12.2013 Motorcycle.
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On what to go? Today there is already some understanding of the route. Сan guess which roads to prepare for. If you count as a percentage, then very approximately, it will probably be the following: 30% - good asphalt 20% - bad asphalt 20% - good dirt roads 15% - bad dirt roads 10% - off-road 5% - full off-road And of course the perfect dirt bike will not be as good on the highway. But! Comfortable bike on asphalt has no prospect of pass on severe terrain. In the worst possible time it could become a heavy anchor, limiting the possibility of moving to the most remote, and therefore coveted places on the map. Therefore, have to sacrifice comfort for opportunity. Again, I remind you that is completely universal motorcycle does not exist. Even with a very passable motorcycle, anything can happen. And I will need to somehow pull it. This is where every kilogram counts. I feel that within 150 I can manage somehow. Moreover, the difference between a motorcycle of 150 and 160 kilograms is felt quite strongly. Heavier will be a problem, and too light will be bad on the highway. I want a light touring enduro that has a good engine, is fuel efficient and can haul a load. Now, in order to find out which of the existing ones fit best, you need to form a few more requirements, namely: 1. It is desirable that the motorcycle be produced by a major manufacturer. This ensures the availability of spare parts and service worldwide. 2. Reliability! Even the fastest and most passable bike becomes a burden if it constantly breaks down. 3. Fuel economy. Given the planned mileage of 150 thousand kilometers, it is easy to calculate how much each extra gram of fuel will cost. 4. Comfort. This concept, in this case, is relative, but still ... an important point. How to figure it out? You can, of course, trust some authority and make your choice based on his preferences. But, as it turned out, this is such a specific topic that even among the most experienced motorcycle travelers there are still intense debates, and the truth has not been found. I decided to find the answer myself. To do this, I have been reading specialized forums for months, where those same disputes are going on, drawing my own conclusions and forming my own subjective opinion. After reading terabytes of information and spoiling my eyes, out of dozens of more or less suitable applicants, I chose three: http://https://www.advrider.com/f/at...v-jpg.4359435/ HONDA XR 650 L - Motorcycle legend! The release began in 1992 and does not stop to this day. He himself is a continuation of two no less legendary motorcycles, famous for their indestructibility and sporting achievements, including the Dakar. It is air-cooled, which makes the design simple and therefore reliable. Low compression ratio, allows you to fill low-grade fuel without consequences. "Tractor" engine, high ground clearance and record suspension travel make it one of the best SUVs. If we add to this the low cost of maintenance and the availability of spare parts in almost any region of the world, then we can say that this Honda is almost perfect. Almost ... It raises doubts about its efficiency, behavior on the track, vibrations and oil consumption. 2.BMW G 650 X-Challenge - The model was produced for a very short time, especially when compared with Honda. Production started in 2006 and completed in 2008. He became a victim of marketing. Despite this, the motorcycle managed to gain popularity among fans of off-road travel. He has all the qualities necessary for a real "Enduro-traveler". It has a good off-road suspension with long travel, a high-torque, legendary "Rotax" engine and the ability to confidently move at high cruising speed on an asphalt highway. It has the latest technology where it's needed and holds the record for fuel economy. 3.KTM 690 Enduro - This model can not be called legendary, but the abbreviation KTM says a lot! Motorcycles of this brand make up the vast majority of Dakar participants. For off-road enthusiasts, KTM will provide maximum opportunities. Almost perfect suspension with a lot of travel and precise work, powerful engine, frame. Everything is sharpened for the active driver and works as it should. Like! - what more could you want? But even here there are some nuances ... The nuances are expressed in users' dissatisfaction with reliability, poor fuel efficiency and the high cost of spare parts. So: After dealing with each of them, I decided to go through the elimination process. I like Honda. I love their romance, because its birth dates back to an era when men were better versed in the number of valves per cylinder than in the number of electronic assistants on a motorcycle. This is a real piece of iron! Reliable and bulletproof. But its archaism has significant drawbacks. An outdated carburetor cannot boast of trouble-free operation and is not at all sharpened for economy. Honda likes to eat a lot. And to the high consumption of gasoline, an increased consumption of engine oil is added. The counterbalance to its excellent cross-country ability will be instability on the track and a too high center of gravity. Of the trinity under consideration, it is the most unfortunate option for long runs over long distances. What a pity, but you have to cross out. Now, for a person born in the USSR and accustomed to choosing from no more than two options, the situation is simplified. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...w-jpg.4359439/ Both bikes are great. Both account for hundreds of trips in the most extreme conditions. How to choose? In a motorcycle forum, I did a poll - which of the three motorcycles to choose for a round-the-world trip? The vote showed that the Honda that I crossed out would be preferred by most motorcyclists. One day on ADVrider I came across some very useful information. The person found himself in a similar situation of choosing between these motorcycles: Here is what he writes: My choice of 2 bikes: BMW G 650 X-Challenge KTM 690 Enduro-R The most important criteria are: Front suspension travel (more = better) BMW: 270mm KTM: 250 mm Rear suspension travel (more = better) BMW: 270mm KTM: 250 mm Maximum power (but I'd rather have high torque than lots of hp) BMW: 54 HP KTM: 65 hp Required engine speed for maximum torque BMW: 5250 rpm KTM: 6550 rpm Curb weight (less = better) BMW: 157 kg KTM: 149 kg Mileage per liter of fuel (more = better) BMW: ok. 25 km KTM: ok. 20 km Service interval (more = better) BMW: 10,000 km KTM 7.500 km One thing I notice when I read forums comparing two bikes is that the KTM has a 6 speed manual transmission (the BMW has 5). I looked at the specs and realized there is no real advantage in a 6 speed transmission. 1st gear with a wide range of speeds is important for overcoming off-road and high (5th) gear for good driving at high speed at low engine speeds. Maximum speed in first gear BMW: 7500 rpm - 57 km/h KTM: 7750 rpm - 60 km/h Engine speed at 120 km/h in top gear (lower = better) BMW: 4986 rpm (fifth gear) KTM: 5350 rpm (sixth gear) Everything else is roughly comparable. The transmissions from the BMW are all slightly higher than those of the KTM. The second is almost identical, and the third is between the third and fourth on the KTM. Same with 4th gear and as you can see the BMW has a higher 5th gear than the KTM's 6th. At race pace on the track, the KTM's 6th gear has the upper hand, but in the real world, in normal mode, the BMW's transmission is better. BMWs are better priced than KTMs, which is another plus point for BMWs. In my opinion, quite a reasonable approach. Anyway, I didn't have any conflicts. If we add to the above numerous opinions about the unreliability of KTM and the reliability of BMW, then there is practically no doubt. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4359461/ |
20.12.2013 The agony of choice. I am buying a motorcycle.
The choice became obvious - I need a BMW G650X Challenge.
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...x-jpg.4360103/ Again you have to choose... Unfortunately, the BMW device I needed was produced only for 3 years (2006 - 2008). So, there is no way to go to the store and buy a new one. And so you want something fresh, not touched by the crooked hands of a mechanic and not spoiled by bad driving. I have at my disposal the main marketplace in Russia auto.ru Here we usually buy and sell cars and motorcycles. It turned out the situation with the choice is terrible. X-Challenge can be counted on the fingers. In Russia at that moment there were only the following candidates: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4360105/ And that's it..! One motorcycle with a claimed mileage of 6500 km. Not knowing off-road (according to the owner). For the price of a new bike. It has all sorts of additional options, of which I need only one - an additional gas tank. The second motorcycle from St. Petersburg with a declared mileage of 7500 km. and a little cheaper. There are also options, the need for which is doubtful for me. Agreed with the owner of the first and went to watch. For some reason, "not knowing off-road" was in clay .., and on the engine covers there were traces of motocross boots. The plastic is yellowed, from frequent contact with clay or black soil. The mileage of the motorcycle was highly questionable. Even more doubtful was the correspondence of the cost to this motorcycle. What to do? Go to St. Petersburg to see one single instance? I think not the best option, especially considering that he was not particularly impressed by the photo. There was also a third option, but no one answered the phone there. In 2006, BMW did something tricky. They put three motorcycles on the market, actually making only one. It's called the BMW G650X. In fact, this is a single platform on which suspensions and wheels that differ in characteristics are hung. A bit of plastic and here you have three seemingly completely different motorcycles: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...x-jpg.4360129/ Visually, the X-Country is the most different from the X-Challenge. Technically, it stands a little apart from enduro and supermoto, but not drastically. The main thing that unites these twins is the legendary ROTAX engine! It was because of him that the choice was made towards this model. X-Moto is closest to the task. It has different wheels (would still have to be changed), front brakes, rear shock absorber (would have to be changed too) and a front fender. In fact, the differences relate to those details that would need to be changed in the X-Challenge. I don't lose anything! In addition, the X-Moto is a road motorcycle and has not been off-road, and therefore was operated in a gentle mode. I'm looking at X-Moto options on auto.ru. There is one that fits. So: BMW X-Moto with a mileage of about 2000 km. Looks good on the photo. Called and arranged Along the way, I negotiate with a good motorcycle mechanic for an expert review. Let's go. Here he is..! At first glance, I realized that it was this motorcycle that would take me across the continents. It's like love at first sight...! I immediately realized that fate had directed me to the right place. Of course everything was checked. Long and detailed. I probably would not get out of this garage all day, but the manager was standing next to me and I had to respect his time. The examination found that the motorcycle is excellent and the mileage is similar to the truth. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...x-jpg.4360161/ :clap: |
07.01.2014 Bought! Getting to know the horse...!
Bought..!
At first, I brought a deposit so that they would not sell it to anyone, and a week later I already met him at the Automobile Inspectorate for registration. He arrived in a special van. How I wanted to sit on it and arrange tests ..! Winter-winter… Automotive Inspection is no longer what it used to be. All registration took no more than two hours (previously it took a day). And now, we are already taking him to the house with brand new numbers. It's great when the bike is light! A couple of assistants, some Russian obscene words, and here he is on the ninth floor, exactly opposite my apartment. Now I can see him in the peephole)) A week later, the New Year 2014, and two days later the family leaves for the holidays. This is where the full lafa will begin! The holidays flew by in the usual fuss, guests and gifts. Family getting ready to leave. As soon as I put my family on the plane, hurry home! Now let's celebrate the New Year for real! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4360215/ The first day I just walked around, experienced the convenience of landing and imagined myself on the road "on horseback". The next day, the soul of the researcher could not stand it and I took it apart. Of course not yet completely. But I needed to get to the innards and see how it all works. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...x-jpg.4360221/ To be continued.... |
25.03.2014 We make a stool for a motorcycle.
Made a bike rack yesterday. Now it is convenient to maintain and prepare for a round-the-world trip.
My old friend Sergey Lyubchenko helped to do it. Rather, he did not help, but did everything himself. I was only entrusted with cutting tubes. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4360285/ We started when it was already night. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4360289/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...D-jpg.4360299/ The stool is done! We completed in the first hour of the night. When I arrived home, more time talking about the circumnavigation on the phone. 7 January 2015. Sergei died tragically. He was a racing driver and trained on the ice river. It was late evening. The car fell through the ice. There was no one to save him. It was a rare person! I am very hard without him ... |
18.04.2014 Who is enduro? Workout
I got on a motorcycle when I was 15 years old. It was a 50m3 moped "Karpaty Sport"
He had bad papers and was confiscated by the police the following year. After that, I only traveled by car. In 2008, I bought a Honda Shadow 1100. It was very beautiful. I couldn't resist..) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4361235/ I drove it only once a month and drove only 300 km. this is not my bike... It must be constantly wiped with a cloth and on a bad road it hurt my back. I sold it and was happy. When I decided to go around the world, I told everyone my route, which had a lot of bad roads and that I was going to go on an enduro. Once a completely unknown guy wrote to me: “Come to the enduro training, I will give you my bike. It seems to me that you don’t really know what enduro is ..” That day my back hurt a lot. I was unable to stand on my feet. But I couldn't help but go! Painkillers didn't help. I tied my shoelaces for fifteen minutes, and got into the car only on the fifth try. My unfortunate appearance did not arouse sympathy in Artyom: “..why did you come? Here's the helmet, here's the motocross boots, go get changed." Either the anesthetic injections began to work, or Artyom's determination, but his back stopped hurting. Five minutes later, in motocross gear, like an astronaut, I go out to the motorcycle. Oh my God! In front of me is a real, evil KTM 525 EXC. No one knows that the last time I sat behind the wheel of a regular, road motorcycle was three years ago ... The briefing took ten seconds: “.. here is the starter button, be careful, the motorcycle is very powerful .., start the motorcycle and go ..” That's it ..! It was necessary to drive along a sodden clay road, consisting entirely of puddles, pits and hills. You need to get to the site where the training will take place. I started the motorcycle and drove off. I only drove 50 meters. I was lying in the mud next to the motorcycle. Cross protection is a cool thing! I get up, pick up the motorcycle, go further. I fall, I pick it up, I drive, I fall again, and then I fall again and fall again, and again .. It feels like there is oil under the wheels. Artyom, walking beside me, periodically pushing me out of another hole. I'm already covered in sweat. The back doesn't hurt at all anymore. Another half way... https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...g-jpg.4361285/ There is a steep hill ahead. How to get there..?! ".. Accelerates and forward .." Artyom, standing on top with a sly smile, takes what is happening on the phone. I can't figure out how I got there! I definitely should have fallen, but I stopped by! Hands shaking, sweaty, breathing like a horse, but I'm happy! On the court, the trainer began to explain the principles of enduro control from the very beginning - the correct landing, the position of the arms, back, head, where to look in movement and turn. This time, I just rode around in first gear to get a little bit of a proper seat and fought the habit of sitting further back with straight, outstretched arms. Then, basic knowledge of the adventures of turns. Here, too, my body and hands assumed strange positions. It was only in the locker room that I remembered my back. Everything seems to have passed. An amazing adrenaline rush. If it weren’t for Artyom’s perseverance, it’s not known when I would have started training and would have started at all. A bad back gave a very good reason to postpone classes. Artyom could not write. He could, seeing me with a cane, sympathize and not waste his time. He could keep his motorcycle, equipment and money. He taught me something very important! No, I'm not talking about enduro ... He taught to be sympathetic! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...h-jpg.4361267/ : |
03.05.2014 The process has started ..!
The bike went to the workshop!
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...p-jpg.4362051/ At this stage, the motorcycle will bring to mind my friends from the company U-POWER. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4362059/ They mainly specialize in exhaust systems for racing and sports cars, but this activity is not limited. Equipment and experience allow you to do almost everything. U-POWER is the case when hands grow from where they need to. Here a team of real professionals has been selected, and such ones are now in great short supply. Yaroslav is a truly passionate person. He is full of ideas and goes about everything informally. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...r-jpg.4362065/ We have several tasks: 1. Make a steel subframe instead of aluminum. This is a weak detail. The engineers wanted to keep the weight down and didn't expect the subframe to carry cargo. All points of attachment and connection of the subframe with the frame will also be strengthened. 2. Develop and manufacture a luggage system for attaching soft trunks, which will be located in the front and rear of the motorcycle. 3. Completely redo the exhaust system. It will be a lightweight, quiet straight-through muffler that will significantly reduce exhaust pipe temperature by reducing exhaust gas back pressure. The most important thing is that it will be much narrower than the original one and will allow you to arrange the wardrobe trunks as compactly as possible. 4. Additional tank. There is an idea to combine the tank and engine protection. A large distance between the wheel and the crankcase allows you to place a lot of fuel there. It may be possible to add +10 liters to the factory gas tank. The location of wardrobe trunks according to the first estimates will be something like this: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4362077/ I will try to make the progress report as detailed as possible. I imagine how interesting it is for those who are not indifferent to motorcycles. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4362073/ |
03.06.2014 Travel vaccinations.
Before you go to distant countries, you need to protect yourself from big problems.
A big problem is a serious and intractable disease that can happen at the most inopportune moment and not only change plans, but also take life... Vaccinations saved from extinction, if not humanity, then entire nations. That is why vaccination is necessary, and entry into some countries without vaccination is not possible. To do this in Russia is not difficult at all and completely free of charge. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4362119/ I was second in line. There are practically no people. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...u-jpg.4362133/ After a short conversation and clarification of my plans to visit epidemiologically dangerous regions, a list of necessary vaccinations is compiled. Next, a schedule for their receipt is signed and immediately proceed to the procedure itself. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4362135/ This time I did: yellow fever diphtheria tetanus The next procedure in a month. To confirm the fact of vaccination, a certificate is issued: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4362145/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4362147/ After vaccination for two weeks it is not recommended to play sports and drink alcohol. The first two days, you can not take a bath (only a shower). Two days later I went to practice. In principle, it is normal, but weakness makes itself felt. Within two weeks after the vaccination, I got tired very quickly. Didn't notice any other problems. Now I have a bunch of albeit weakened, but very vicious viruses. . |
10.06.2014 Training
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I planned to start RTW in the middle of summer. And only now, at the end of May, I realized that I don’t know how to manage the enduro! The lesson with Artyom was a good test. I started active training. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...o-jpg.4399239/ Probably the best coaches trained me https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...l-jpg.4399265/ Well-known coach in Moscow Alexander Samoilov Sasha has taught many. It was with him that I first went through a turn in a skid and did not fall https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4399269/ And my friend Michael Michael has iron patience. When you make a mistake ten times in a row, he, like the Buddha, calmly tells you - ".. nothing, you will do it a hundred times and it will work out .." https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4399273/ Almost every day I trained for 2-3 hours. Every day I became more confident https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4399303/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4399307/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...r-jpg.4399309/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...o-jpg.4399311/ |
27.06.2014 Motorcycle. Stages of preparation.
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Now the bike has changed beyond recognition. Now this is no ordinary G650X. This is a real expedition SUV! But to begin with alterations in the elimination of the problems inherent motorcycle constructively. The aluminum subframe surprisingly easy, but the price of this advantage, the fragility of the structure and the inability to fix the damage in the absence of a special, argon welding. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4399531/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4399533/ One of the weak points - the top bracket to the frame. Mounted on bolts with a diameter of 6 mm. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4399537/ The lower sub-frame mounting bolts on thin too. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4399539/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4399551/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...6-jpg.4399553/ It was decided to make the sub-frame made of profiled stainless steel with a cross section 1.5 mm. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4399555/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4399559/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...9-jpg.4399605/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4399607/ It is not yet driven to the finish line, but really beautiful and really durable. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4399623/ It looks like now the upper subframe. Now, instead of weak bolts in aluminum casting, a powerful bolt of 8 mm diameter penetrates reliably connecting the responsible unit. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4399625/ In parallel, there are works on installation issues for Lotus Racing. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4399629/ Soon there will be more information about the construction of the bike for the trip around the world. To be continued..!!! |
28.06.2014 Donor
The motorcycle was already in the workshop, but I still did not solve the problem with the wheels.
As a reminder, I bought a BMW G650X with supermoto wheels in the hope that I would buy 18/21 spoked wheels separately. I spent a lot of time searching, but could not find anything suitable for the price. In addition, I need a front brake cylinder, front and rear brake discs. One day I saw an ad for a G650X-Challenge with the wheels I needed for a good price and low mileage. I figured it might be the right decision - - I called, reduced the price a little and bought this motorcycle. Why do I need two motorcycles? I thought - what will happen if I crash my motorcycle or something serious happens to it? Will RTW stop? https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4400673/ If in Moscow, in the garage, there will be a donor, then I can eliminate any, the most complex breakdown, by removing the necessary parts from it. It will be fast, cheaper and guaranteed. If nothing happens, I'll sell it when I get home. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4400677/ On the same day, two motorcycles met in the workshop. The G650X-moto has 1800 km and is almost brand new. The G650X-Callenge has 12000 km - I take the wheels, brakes, motocross handguards from it and put it on an almost new X-moto. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4400679/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4400683/ |
28.06.2014 Workout
A friend of mine asked - "what will you do when somewhere in Africa, in the most dangerous country, your wheel is punctured?"
The next day I called Michael. - "I want to practice repairing and mounting a motorcycle tire". And here I am in Michael's garage. There are two motorcycles on which you need to change tires, but first you need to practice doing it quickly. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4399723/ The first time it took me 1 hour to remove and put on the tire. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...g-jpg.4399727/ Fifth time I did it in 35 minutes https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...g-jpg.4399729/ Tenth in 20 minutes https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4399731/ I left Mikhail late at night. My hands were injured. The next day, my fingers could not unbend and my hands hurt a lot, but now I knew exactly what I would do if I got a puncture. |
30.06.2014 Silencer modification
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One of the tasks in preparing a motorcycle is to change the muffler. The factory one is too high and has a catalytic converter, which can be a big problem when refueling with leaded gasoline. U-POWER suggested that they experiment and try to create an exhaust system with an adjustable muffler. Unfortunately there isn't enough time... To solve the problem, the muffler was cut. Catalyst cut out. A compact direct-flow resonator was installed in the vacated place, so that the sound remained unchanged (point with a red arrow). https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...C-jpg.4399783/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4399785/ |
30.06.2014 Additional gas tank and protection
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I wanted to make the protection and the gas tank one piece, so that the bottom part was made of a thick aluminum sheet. Yaroslav (U-POWER) insisted that it be separate. (2015) Now I understand - he was 100% right. After my last accident, the protection received a dent. I fixed it easily. If the gas tank and protection were one, it would be a problem. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...B-jpg.4400221/ The volume of the fuel tank is the space formed between the engine protection and the engine itself. There was enough space to hold about 10 liters of fuel. Now we had to decide how to raise gasoline from the lower tank to the upper one without using an additional pump and fuel gauge. I really don't like complicating the design. I would not want to constantly monitor the level, switch and add something. The decision came unexpectedly by itself. Don't complicate! You just need to remove the ventilation hose from the upper tank and lower it into the additional tank. The fuel pump will create a vacuum in the main tank - the vacuum will take fuel from the additional tank. All! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400231/ As a result, the system works as follows: fuel enters the upper tank through the ventilation hose. The lower tank has its own ventilation. Each tank has a filler hole with a stopper. First, fuel comes from the lower tank, and then from the upper one. The sensor (bulb) is triggered when the lower fuel tank is completely empty, and the upper one is about 3 liters. The system is simple and maintenance free. There is simply nothing to break, with the exception of the fuel pump. Just in case, I used a check valve in the ventilation, which prevents fuel from spilling out when the motorcycle falls. (2015) I especially appreciated my idea when in Mongolia I had to go 400 km off-road without seeing a single sign of at least some kind of fuel. I also noticed that with a full bottom tank the bike runs much more stable. The low center of gravity rules! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4400241/ Non-return valve for ventilation of the additional gas tank. I made it as high as possible so that when passing the ford, water would not get into it. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4400275/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400361/ It was necessary to make a filler hole on the gas tank. My friend Mikhalych gave me a canister from which the cork was cut. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400293/ Now it looks like this: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400297/ one of the attachment points a total of 6 https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4400311/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400313/ We distributed the load over multiple attachment points. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400329/ It turned out very sexy)) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4400339/ The test showed that 9.5 liters of gasoline fit into an additional gas tank. |
01.07.2014 A month before the start.. Motorcycle driving license.
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I had a secret... Not exactly a secret, of course, but for some reason everyone was sure that I had a motorcycle license. In order not to outrage the public, I tried not to tell anyone. I was sure that getting a driver's license was not difficult. Everything could be solved for money. Many people in Russia still believe that money is everything... So here it is! Believe it or not, corruption in a separate area seems to have been defeated. In any case, in Moscow for sure. Having lost a lot of time because of my ignorance, I still received a document on the end of the motorcycle school. Now you need to choose the inspection where to take the exams. Yes, now you can choose any of the departments involved in examination work. But there is one rule to keep in mind. Both exams (theory and driving) must be taken in the same place. Accordingly, in this place and then come for the rights. At first, fate led me to inspection number 4. Attention! Don't go there (if you live in Moscow) ever! If you really want to get your driver's license on time and save your nerves, avoid Inspection #4! But I did not know .. And so, having passed the theory, I was still signed up for driving. The day comes and having arrived at the specified address, I find myself in the hangar where the exam will take place. The hangar is crowded. It feels like the whole of Moscow is here. Everyone was waiting for the inspector and was nervous. And then, an hour late, God appears! The inspector calls everyone to the video camera and in a loud voice, reading out the name and surname, asks you to look into the lens. Then he forces a group of 15 potential motorcyclists to stand against the wall and the execution begins. Only one in four passed the exam. For each examinee, he ran on the heels of looking at how the wheel went. Sometimes he even crouched down, apparently due to myopia, in order to better see if the wheel had touched the edge of the painted line. In the end, somehow not too perfect, I drove. The inspector crosses me out in his notebook - "Come to retake the exam in a month .." No, that won't do, I don't have time! I read on the Internet that it is better to take it to another inspection. Everything is better in this inspection. The queues are short, it is more convenient to get there, the atmosphere is better. Here the inspector did not act on the nerves, but on the contrary, he communicated quite friendly with everyone. One of the guys raised the wrong hand before braking, so the inspector just laughed and did not count the penalty points. The instructors were very helpful. Before my exam start, a couple of calm phrases removed my nervousness. As a result, the exam passed! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4400945/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...E-jpg.4400947/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4400949/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4400951/ And here they are.. Strange color design... Now I can even drive some kind of moto van, moped and bike. I was allowed to keep my old license as a keepsake by cutting off the corner where the number was located. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...D-jpg.4400959/ I did it a month before the start... Now nothing stops me from going on a trip around the world!!!! :clap::clap::clap: |
02.07.2014 Motorcycle bags. Start of production.
It started back in March.
Today I again visited my friends at the factory. Together with Sergey (the owner of the factory) we will make bags for the motorcycle. They have been making clothes for motorcycles for a long time, but this time we will do something special! We met at a motorcycle show. I was looking for someone who can implement my idea. Sergey, like me, loves to invent and experiment. We immediately became friends! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4402317/ I thought a lot about how to properly place luggage on a motorcycle. I immediately discarded hard (plastic or aluminum) panniers, because. they are only suitable for driving on asphalt. They break when the motorcycle falls and are very dangerous when driving off-road. I really don't like having huge bags hanging on the back of the bike that hinder the movement of the body on the bike, because moving along the bike is very important when riding enduro style. Also, the center of mass shifts strongly from the center of the motorcycle back and up, which has a very bad effect on handling. And here's another thing - The way a motorcycle is usually loaded makes access to things inconvenient. Finding something quickly becomes a problem. Of course, I'm talking about motorcycles for long trips, when you have to take everything you need in your luggage for autonomous life for several months or years, in different climatic conditions. I apologize if this is a photo of your motorcycle! I took these photos for example from the Internet. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...l-jpg.4402333/ I believe that everything should be placed as low as possible and as close to the center of the bike as possible. In this case, we get good handling, low center of gravity and comfort for the pilot. Therefore, I decided to distribute the weight evenly, keeping the load proportions between the front and rear wheel, and also to place the weight of the luggage as low as possible. There will be 5 bags: 2 rear - main weight and volume 2 in front - light, voluminous things 1 behind the back seat - camera, documents, first aid kit, small essentials https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4402403/ Bags should be as hardy as possible (withstand repeated drops), waterproof, quickly removed and put on. They should not have knots and parts that can break. There should be no plastic parts! It should be something so simple and reliable that it can be compared with a Kalashnikov assault rifle. We understood that the first time is unlikely to achieve the desired result. Therefore, we decided to do this: We will make the first sample with which I will begin my movement around the world. We will be constantly in touch. We will discuss and make adjustments using real experience in difficult conditions. Once a month, Sergey will send me a new, modified sample, which will also be checked and improved. In a month, the next one, and so we will do until I understand that we have achieved an ideal result. And we will test the first prototype even before the start on another motorcycle. Today we started production. It will be interesting to compare the first and last sample after I return from my trip around the world. I'm sure we'll make the world's best luggage storage system on an adventure bike! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402529/ ........ And that's not all - there is another idea! The best security measure is to be invisible. No locks and anti-theft systems work like an ordinary motorcycle cover! We will make it even more interesting - we combine three in one product: 1. Case 2. Awning 3. Hammock We'll make it with khaki material. Photo for example https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...r-jpg.4402429/ |
02.07.2014 Luggage system
It was probably the most difficult. It was especially difficult to calculate the fastening of the front bags.
For manufacturing, thick-walled stainless steel pipes with a high carbon content were used. This material withstands vibration - there will be no cracks. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402537/ We were afraid that it would turn out to be a very heavy structure. As a result, we were able to meet the total weight of 9 kg. It will seem like a lot to you? But try weighing the standard Givi aluminum top case with BMW mount and you'll see. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402539/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402541/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402561/ It turned out to be a very reliable and very strong system. It will help protect the bike. It is convenient to take it with your hands to move or raise the motorcycle. And I also like how it looks)) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402545/ |
12.07.2014 (10.08.2014) Muzzle
Dashboard, headwind protection, high-quality light - none of these are on my motorcycle.
At the moment, this is a typical enduro, not intended for long runs at high speed, without amenities and navigation. I have to convert it into a rally bike. This is closer to my task. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402883/ I called friends, rummaged through the Internet for a week and finally found it! It cost $600, but I paid that money. The kit included an aluminum frame, two headlights with lenses and a KTM-style fiberglass body. Later I want to put xenon headlights. But now the main thing is to securely attach all this to the motorcycle. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402903/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402907/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402921/ In the evening plastic parts went to painting. They will be gray like the rest of the bike. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4402923/ |
20.07.2014 Front suspension
I was confused by small smudges on the front suspension.
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403043/ I removed everything and took it to the guys who specialize in the suspension of motocross motorcycles. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403045/ The pendant was in excellent condition. Filled with good oil and put good rubber seals. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403047/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403049/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403051/ |
05.08.2014 What they don't talk about.
And now I will tell a little about what happened to me while the bike was being prepared in the garage.
Initially, I planned to go in the middle of summer 2014. I understood that the most necessary thing was to find money. They ended very quickly when I quit my job (exhibition business). I sold my car, sold everything I didn't need. I actively sought sponsors and actively promoted the travel project in the media. This gave results, but doing everything almost alone is very difficult. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403271/ Since the beginning of summer, there is almost no time left for sleep. I slept for 4-5 hours and rushed around the city for various meetings all day long, simultaneously controlling what was happening in the garage. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4403291/ At a friend's print shop, I made brochures with a presentation and handed them out at meetings with representatives of different companies. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...g-jpg.4403299/ I have participated in many programs on television and radio. I visited all thematic exhibitions and events to find those who would be interested and give money. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4403309/ Something worked out, sponsors were found, cooperation agreements were concluded. If I had a lot of time and a team, everything would not be so difficult, but I was practically alone and my strength and nerves were running out. Gradually, those who wanted to help began to appear. From somewhere people began to appear who sincerely sympathize with what I'm doing. Every day there were more of them. Without them, I would have gone crazy and nothing would have happened. I would like to list everyone here, but it would be a huge list. Thank you dear friends! In early July, I realized that I did not have time for the scheduled date. There were a thousand more things to do and it took time. I postponed the start twice. In mid-July I got a call from a very large company (energy drinks) and offered to meet. They really liked the idea and they made it clear that they were ready to conclude a contract. It was big money! Very big money! But there was one condition: they wanted me to postpone the start to the next (2015) year. I was shaking for two days. I did not sleep. It was a huge challenge! In the end, I refused. Something inside me told me that if I didn't leave now, I would never leave. I still solved the money problem. It was not a lot of money, but it was enough to go. Friends donated a helmet and boots. A friendly company gave a good moto suit. I was given a satellite phone and a SPOT system. An insurance company acted as a sponsor of the "traveler's insurance". And in cooperation with a road construction company, I received a guarantee of a small monthly income in exchange for articles with photographs about the roads of the world. If only I had started doing this sooner... In the background is my friend Eugene. He heads the Federation of Motorcycle Tourism. This person helped me a lot. Without him, nothing would have happened. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4403339/ But maybe then it would have been a different journey. Not real. More like work. Maybe then I wouldn't belong to myself, and my trip would turn into one big advertising campaign... Last start date is August 20, 2014. I decided that on this day, regardless of how and what will be ready, I will go on a trip around the world. Days began to fly by at breakneck speed ... Two weeks before the start! |
17.08.2014 Presentation
We made a presentation for sponsors and friends.
Several TV channels arrived. Was great! Nobody knew that the bike wasn't ready yet... https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...t-jpg.4404593/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4404595/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...m-jpg.4404607/ :clap: https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-gif.4404609/ |
19.08.2014 One day before start.
I haven't slept at all for the last two nights. Another night ahead and in the morning I should be at the start.
I don't know how I can stand it. And I definitely wouldn’t have survived without my friends and people I didn’t know before, who for some reason came to help. From the U-POWER garage, on a tow truck, I moved the motorcycle to the garage of Sergey Lyubchenko (my friend). It's good that the TV people came. Thanks to this, there are several shots. I haven't photographed anything these days. https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...1&d=1672183298 All work on the motorcycle should have been completed by mid-summer. But this was not done, so we have to do it now, in a hurry. I don’t know why Yaroslav did this, because there was a lot of time ... Despite this, I am very grateful to him. He, with his team, did a great job and did it well. He is a good engineer and contributed a lot of great ideas. He took very little money for his work. Ten times less than it should have cost. The problem is not only that now you have to finish the motorcycle almost around the clock. The problem is that in all the time I have never ridden on this motorcycle. Never! I'm going to have to go on a long journey on a completely modified bike that didn't pass the test...! I don't know how the converted bike will behave. I don't know how to handle a loaded bike (I've only ridden light enduros). https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...1&d=1672183298 https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...1&d=1672183298 I thought that I would spend the last days before the start with the children. That I will visit my loved ones to say goodbye to the long months of separation. I will calmly collect things and enjoy anticipating a big event in my life. Instead, I'm in the garage at night and trying to get things done during the day. I have turned into a zombie who no longer eats, does not sleep, does not go to the toilet, and is kept only on energy drinks and strong coffee. https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...1&d=1672183298 If I had another month... But I will go to the east, and there winter comes earlier. I will not have time to get to Vladivostok before frost and snow. And this is at least 10,000 km through Altai, Mongolia and the Trans-Siberian Railway. There is another problem - I have not collected things and some of the equipment is missing. I haven't found a tent yet, no sleeping bag or travel mat. Many things are missing. I just didn't have time to do it. I started preparing too late. I didn't really understand how much work there was to do. But now is not the time to regret and whine! We need to gather our strength and be ready at the start in a few hours. https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...1&d=1672183298 . |
20.08.2014 A few hours before the start
Night before start.
Who are these people??!! Why did they come and help me? Why don't they sleep at home with their wives? There are two of my friends here, but I see the rest of the people for the first time in my life! Together we finish the electrical wiring, install light bulbs, lubricate the threads on the bolts with a thread lock, finish the little things that we didn’t have time to do in a few months. It's already 2 am, and no one is going to leave. There is still a lot to do. Today is the third night I haven't slept. I don't think well, and if it weren't for these guys, I wouldn't go anywhere. What is happening is amazing! I will remember this for the rest of my life! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4404425/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4404427/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4404429/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4404431/ |
20.08.2014 start
August 20, 2014 - Moscow.
After 50 hours without sleep, for the first time I got on a motorcycle that had to cover hundreds of thousands of kilometers. 4.30 am. I'm driving home from the garage. Dawn in Moscow. Humid morning air blowing on your face helps you recover. I had 30 minutes to load the bags. Another sleepless night passed in the garage. An hour before the start, leaving the motorcycle near the entrance, in a zombie state, I ran home. My wife is sleepy, follows me and says something, but I can hardly hear anything. In the room behind the closed door, the daughter sleeps. I definitely didn't want this moment to look like this...! We made eye contact for a second. Doom... I felt sorry for her, I felt sorry for myself. Both of us understood that life would now divorce us forever ... There was no time to say goodbye... There was no time to get ready. There was no one to help. I threw everything into the motorcycle bags that my exhausted mind remembered the need for. It was only necessary to put on the previously tried-on equipment, load the motorcycle and leave. I was expected at the start. On a small platform, at the start of the crowd! It's great that you all came! How cool..! From emotions, from the fact that those who I didn’t expect to see at my start came, from the fact that all this turned out to be so bright and necessary for someone, sleep receded, hands trembling from overwork calmed down, eyes that turned into slits opened. The head came out of the lead state - I lived! Toggle switch up, start, the roar of the engine, the square disappearing behind the back and another important stop before leaving - the grandmother. We sat on the bed - she was in a nightgown, I was in motorcycle gear. Two antipodes. I felt out of place in this clean, warm, aged room. - "You know, but we will not see each other again" - in the first second from these words I got goosebumps. - "Probably not long left for me..." I pulled myself together - "So wait for me there. See you there." Surprisingly, these words suddenly seemed right. How calm it suddenly became. I stood up, leaned over and hugged her. Warm, very weak, dear and also doomed ... Before leaving the entrance, I stopped. What will I do if she dies? I yanked open the door and stepped out into the street. - I will not be back... (this photo is from 2005) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4414845/ |
20.08.2014 start
A lot of people gathered in a small square.
There were many television and journalists. There were various officials and sponsors. It was a real show and everyone liked it. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...6-jpg.4415093/ You could just pack up and go. It would definitely be much easier - less responsibility and preparation. But then who will give the money? Sponsors need publicity and media. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4415095/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4415097/ Everything was funny, unusual, strange. The motorcycle is loaded with things for the first time. Everything was put together in a hurry, and I think I overdid it. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4415109/ https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/f...1062127/page-3 New motorcycle suit. I wore it for the first time today. First time motorcycle boots. First new helmet. All these things had to learn how to interact. One day I'll get used to it, but now... https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4415121/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4415125/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...w-jpg.4415135/ From the center of Moscow, to the exit from the city, I was accompanied by friends. A special feeling - "we will see each other only after years ..." https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4415131/ |
20.08.2014 start
Before leaving Moscow, I changed tires.
I will go to Mongolia on the cheapest tires. I will receive off-road tires by mail in Altai and change them before entering Mongolia. They turned around after 10 kilometers. Now I'm alone. The whole world is in front of me. I didn't know you could fall asleep on a motorcycle. Only thirty minutes of my loneliness had passed. The sun shone in full - my eyes were closed, my eyes did not care what would happen to me. They were ready to endure when the nerves were strained to the limit, when there were hours left before the start, but not now. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4432539/ Now - the highway going into the distance, the smooth hum of the engine and the measured vibration of a huge piston pumping the first liters of gasoline. I need an energy drink. Leaning the wheel against the bump stop near the store, I turned off the engine. I'm tired as if I've been driving all day. The motorcycle tilted. An irresistible force knocked him to the ground, neglecting the efforts of painfully tense muscles. I managed to remove my foot, jumped back, and looked at how he was lying on the road. It was a new experience. It was clearly heavier than I expected. The energy drink didn't help. I drove only a few miles from the store. Sleep, painful, leaden, not ready to retreat, captured consciousness. Every kilometer with a fight. Every minute is an overcoming. It was ridiculous to drive a hundred kilometers from the start and stop. This is nonsense! So much preparation, ambition and vanity at the start, and now, the hero was blown away, he could not .. ⠀ 180 km, the city of Vladimir. Here, in a small hotel on the outskirts of the city, the traveler was lying face down with his arms stretched out along his body, scattering his clothes around the room. In his travel backpack, SPOT sent signals to the satellite every five minutes. The satellite sent the coordinates to the map. The route appeared on the map - the first kilometers. These were very small and already very difficult kilometers. I was still very close. But does distance matter? It is important that this short path and this deep sleep is already on the journey! Start done! I can't be brought back! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4432541/ See you when I complete my journey across the planet! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4435811/ |
23.08.2014 Fourth day of RTW
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City of Vladimir (200 km from Moscow), morning. Second day after start. An excellent hotel (in the style of the USSR) called "Klyazma". Very inexpensive and with a view of the pines. I woke up realizing that I forgot so many important things. Yesterday, early in the morning, before the start, I was collecting bags in a very serious condition and it is not surprising that the most important thing was left at home. I made a list and called my wife. It wasn't easy, but she agreed to bring me things. Thank you! Now I could sleep for a few more hours. After three days without sleep, I still felt too sick to move on. It's good that everything happened and I'm already on my way. Yes, I sleep in bed after only 200 km, but this is a dream on a journey! This summer has passed me by. Preparation took all the time, and I didn’t even notice how half a year flew by. Only now I'm starting to look around. I almost forgot how to do it... Apart from the things I forgot, I don't have the necessary spare parts which would be difficult to buy in the province and not possible in Mongolia. I blame myself. Ordered very late. Now I will receive the spare parts by mail in Ufa. The owner of the spare parts store is Mikhail Sorokin (Mishutka), well-known among motorcyclists. Everyone in Russia who loves enduro travel knows him. Michael is a pleasure to talk to. I call him all on my nerves, that it’s a nightmare and horror, that I didn’t manage to do everything and forgot everything, and on the phone a calm voice - “we’ll send everything wherever you say. Everything will be on time, just tell me what route you have ..”. Immediately, the soul becomes calmer. Misha, thank you! Despite a piece of free time, I still did not understand the chaos of luggage. I don't know what and in what bag I have. This is a big problem when something is urgently needed. All things need to be properly distributed among the bags, but now I am not able to do this. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4434829/ By evening, the eyes are closed again. I have to go to bed early and hit the road early tomorrow morning. So I did)) I lay down at one in the morning and, as a result, woke up only at eleven in the afternoon. By the time I got ready, by the time I had warmed up, by the time I had paid, it was already lunch. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4434843/ The bike seems much heavier than it was yesterday. Even though I sent a bunch of extra stuff back to Moscow. On the highway pandemonium and traffic jam at every traffic light. The road to the east from Moscow is a very difficult direction for traffic. Several times cars were equal to me and people wished me luck. Turns out a lot of people saw me on TV on the news" - Have you already left? Have you already left? Yes! Yes, gone! I can't even believe that this is true. Nizhny Novgorod met with terrible traffic jams. I have not yet adapted to an overloaded motorcycle and this gives me a lot of impressions. I hate traffic jams..! Zhenya Strogov (Federation of Mototourism) gave the guys from the city of Cheboksary a contact. This is a unique place. Landmark - "After the bridge over the river Sura, the first turn to the right. Follow the signs Motopost - 21". Russia has a very strong community of motorcyclists. In different settlements, motorcyclists create special motorcycle parking lots equipped with everything necessary for an overnight stay and maintenance of a motorcycle. Probably so much it is not developed anywhere else in the world. There are actually several features of these places: - they will definitely be offended if you offer money - the conditions can be both in a good hotel, and just a mattress in the garage. - most likely you will have to drink a lot of vodka or beer (a lot) - maybe the plan to leave the next day will fail .. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4434861/ Here is a real paradise for tourists and motorcyclists! Sergey (Artist) met me. Showed me where to stay for the night. It feels like I've known this person for a long time. Everything is easy and without ceremony. There is absolutely no feeling of embarrassment or awkwardness. In this place you belong. And I will tell you very cool! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4434865/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4435803/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4435819/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachments/7-jpg.4434915/ I said goodbye to the guys and left. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4434929/ In Kazan, I decided not to stop. No time. I was stopped by the motorcycle police. They didn't need documents. They just wanted to hang out and see the bike. Honda motorcycles 2002. They look like something out of my childhood movies. The design is clearly from the early 80s. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4434931/ My headlights are great, but they need to be adjusted. As long as they light up the sky and just a little bit of the highway. Forgive me fellow drivers! I will definitely adjust the light and I will not blind you anymore. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...6-jpg.4434941/ An amazing feeling not familiar to the motorist. - raise your head and see the stars above your head ... At night I arrived in Ufa. To be continued... |
26.08.2014 Cheboksary - Ufa
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1989 USSR, Moscow I was 18 years old. The day after my birthday, I got on a plane and flew to Bashkiria. My parents were very unhappy, but they could not do anything - I wanted independence, I wanted to test myself. What is 1989 in Russia? Many events that affected the largest country in the world. And also - the heyday of crime, gangs, unemployment, "dry law". Initially, I was going to BAM (Construction of the Baikal-Amur Railway. One of the largest and most remote from Moscow construction projects in the USSR), but this year the construction was completed. I, who was born in an intelligent family, living in ideal conditions, had to break out of this golden cage! I needed to experience what a real, harsh life is like. Need romance, loneliness and overcoming. I was offered a job - a roadside cafe was being built on the Ufa-Orenburg highway. A person was needed. They offered high wages for the time. I immediately agreed. I didn't know what to expect. It was a small wooden booth (kiosk) by the road and a brazier (an iron box for coal on which meat is fried). My job was to cut and chop wood early in the morning, light the grill, roast and sell meat. I made meat preparations late in the evening when I closed the wooden shutters of the booth. I stayed there for almost a year, and during all the time I had only two days off. It was very hard, but it wasn't the worst... The most difficult and frightening thing is crime. He surrounded me everywhere and constantly. In the beginning it was attacks, robberies and racketeering. Later, when the construction of the main building was completed and the cafe opened, people began to work there. Nearly all of them have been in prison at one time or another. And even the waiter girls were in prison, and some of them more than once. Everything that happened there - you can write a book. Almost every day there were events from which at first it was scary, then it was perceived more easily, and then I got used to it - if you can get used to it. Once it happened - what should have happened when there are so many people around who are connected with the dark side of life. It was terrible. After the incident, the cafe closed, and I returned home. Now this place and this cafe still exists. Those days are long gone and now decent, good people work in this place. It's completely safe here. There is no trace left of what happened then. But this place, the memories associated with my formation, are still strong in my memory. It was a great school of life. School of character. Without this place, there would be no me, such as my friends and relatives know me. I have very close people in this place. I couldn't get past this place! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4436041/ Police crime I already drove up to Ufa. It was deep night and there were practically no cars on the road. I was driving at the usual speed of 110 km/h. In Russia, there is a strange law, or rather an interpretation of the law - if a road sign shows a speed limit of 90 km / h, this means that you can drive 109 km / h. How it works - by law, you will not be fined or prosecuted if you do not exceed the speed limit by more than 10 km / h. After you have exceeded the speed limit by 10 km/h you will be fined, but the amount of the fine is too small for the police to be interested in this. More or less noticeable amount of the fine when you exceed the speed limit by 20 km/h or more. Therefore, on all roads in Russia, everyone drives faster than it is indicated on the signs. In the distance, on a completely empty road, I saw a police car. They stopped me. I was sure it was just a document check, but they told me that I had overtaken in a prohibited area and crossed a solid line on the road (this is a serious violation, a very large fine). I'm stunned..! I've been driving almost an empty road for an hour and I'm not overtaking anyone! I looked the policeman in the eyes and it was clear that he understood that he was lying, he knew that I understood this, and he was doing it on purpose. Yes, sometimes it happens in Russia. It's very rare now, but it still happens. It is useless to argue... Corrupt police officers use criminal methods and common sense does not work here. I knew what to say to him. He realized that what he had in mind would not work. He immediately changed and started talking on other topics. How disgusting! Especially when, after everything that happened, he wanted to shake my hand ... This was the only incident with the police during my entire journey through Russia. In all other cases, I received only positive emotions and help. There are more good people, but you need to be prepared for such cases. |
27.08.2014 Ufa
I really didn't like the weight of the bike. Too many things..
Something needs to be done about this! And I decided - I will leave something not very necessary every day of rest. As much as I feel sorry for these things, I will leave them! But first I need to weigh everything - then it will be clear what needs to be left in the first place. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4436141/ You also need to distribute all things in bags. I have to know where everything is so that I don't open all the bags every time. I decided to distribute them by tasks: front left - all for sleep front right - all clothes rear left - tent, shoes, spare parts back right - laptop, important documents, satellite phone, food supply, first aid kit central rear - camera and video cameras, kitchen, rain cover, cover, compressor I spent several hours sorting everything out in order. But so far I had too much superfluous and I decided that I would finally decide on the order of things when I got rid of everything that was not needed. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4436157/ For the first time in history, I washed my motorcycle. Great day! Along the way, I met a guy who said that he also really wants to go around the world. We agreed that he would go as soon as he graduated. He was from Siberia. It is interesting that he had a Siberian dialect. Instead of the traditional "chut-chut" (slightly) he said "malenko" (a little) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...e-jpg.4436215/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4436223/ And yet I have too many things..!! |
28.08.2014 Ufa - Chelyabinsk
In the morning I left Ufa.
I continue driving east and the next city where I should stop is Chelyabinsk. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4439171/ The end of August is probably the best time to move around central Russia on a motorcycle. There is no heat and no cold, almost no rain, very few insects. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...9-jpg.4439173/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4439189/ I am approaching the Ural mountains, and nature becomes very beautiful. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...l-jpg.4439175/ There is a small market on the road. Here you can buy a device for making moonshine for the price of a bottle of whiskey. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4439177/ Not far from Chelyabinsk, I met two motorcyclists. One of them was returning from a trip. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4439179/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4439181/ When we said goodbye and shook hands, he suddenly asked - - Do you happen to need a folding chair ..? Probably needed.. - on, I donate, I will not need it now .. He got on a motorcycle and left. I stood with a chair in my hands and could not understand why I took it ... I decided to make the luggage lighter! I decided to leave something every day of rest! Why did I take a chair..?! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...C-jpg.4439185/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4439187/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4439191/ |
28.08.2014 Chelyabinsk - ambulance
I didn't like that my back hurt all night.
As I rode my motorcycle to the pharmacy, my back began to hurt more. When I tried to get off the motorcycle, the pain became almost unbearable. I stood by the motorcycle for a long time and looked at the pharmacy door. It was 50 meters to the door, but this distance seemed huge to me ... I plucked up courage and took small steps. I opened the first one and stepped inside. At that moment, I felt the most intense pain in the world! I stood in the aisle with the door open and could not move even a millimeter. All eyes were white... People wanted to come in and out, but they couldn't because I was standing at the door and I couldn't move. I must have moaned loudly, which is why a woman in a white coat came running from the pharmacy. I just told her - back hurts. She nodded, she dived under me like a wrestler, and in a second she carried me inside the room on her. She laid me on my stomach on the counter. I was terribly ashamed... Never before has a woman carried me. But she did it so deftly that I did not even have time to understand what was happening. I lay on my stomach on the counter. I couldn't move, but it was much easier for me here than in the doorway. She reappeared with a syringe in her hands. - Now let's make an injection .. Where? Here?! Here are the people..! - Nothing, they turn away ... She unbuttoned my trousers in a second, lowered my underpants and plunged a syringe into me. How embarrassed I was..!! She pulled her pants back on, ducked under me again, and deftly carried me back to the bench. Now I was on my back. It was better than on the counter with his pants down, but still very embarrassing.. - I called an ambulance. Coming soon... She said this and continued to work with the buyers. I lay helplessly and watched everything that was happening. People went into the pharmacy and looked at me in surprise. I averted my eyes and tried not to think. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...l-jpg.4439369/ Television came along with the ambulance. I was glad that my savior would be shown on local TV. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4439371/ TV people went with me to the hospital and it was also useful - The doctors examined me and issued a verdict - Three weeks in the hospital. At least two weeks. This did not fit into the plans at all! The doctors said that if I did not sign a paper that I agreed, they would not treat me. TV people contacted the head doctor of the hospital, and he made the right decision - - they will cure me in three days! They will treat with some special method, and in three days I will be able to go further! O miracle! Almighty TV! From their cameras and microphones, even the back heals faster ..)) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4439373/ :clap: |
30.08.2014 Chelyabinsk - hospital
The Chelyabinsk hospital is good people in difficult conditions.
There are shabby walls and old furniture that has been painted over old paint many times over. Everything here is like 50 years ago, only now it is very worn out. There are no modern materials here, everything is old-fashioned. Despite this, the people who work here have good qualifications and a good heart! http://https://www.advrider.com/f/at...k-jpg.4440339/ They really decided to raise me in three days. I was constantly doing various procedures, droppers and injections. The very next day I felt much better. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachments/16-jpg.4440327/ My motorcycle was left at the pharmacy. Friends contacted local bikers and asked for help. Some of the local guys took my bike to the workshop. I showed up at the garage on the third day. I was picked up from the hospital by a local motorcyclist nicknamed "Grandfather", well known here in Chelyabinsk. He was very unhappy that he had to follow me ... https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4440329/ At the garage, I asked a local mechanic to help me attach the spare parts to the bike. I didn't like that they were in bags. I usually do things like this myself, but now I could only sit on a chair. For two more days I hung out between the hospital and the workshop. In parallel, in the hotel room, I continued to organize things in luggage bags. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4440331/ And of course, as promised, I left some things in Chelyabinsk. It was especially difficult to part with a very expensive photo tripod and an even more expensive head for this tripod. But how happy was the guy to whom I gave it all! . |
02.09.2014 Chelyabinsk - Kurgan
Today I'm moving on! The back has almost recovered. I hope there will be no problems!
While I was sick, one guy often came to chat. When I went outside and was about to leave, a police car drove up to me. Turned out he was a cop. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...e-jpg.4440353/ My wife's relatives invited me to stay in Kurgan Siberia lies from the Urals to the east of Russia. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...n-jpg.4440383/ This is my first visit to this part of Russia. I have been to many places in Russia, but I have never crossed the Ural range. For the first time I will be visiting real Siberians. They are very simple and very hospitable people. Despite provincial life and low incomes, they are well educated and lead a decent life. Everything good in Russia rests on people like them. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4440389/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4440391/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4440393/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4440405/ |
03.09.2014 Kurgan - Ishim
This family gets up very early.
Luda cooked belyashi (Popular meat pies in the USSR, which came to Russia from Tatar cuisine). How do they smell! I almost forgot that smell! Smells are a different story altogether. This is what really distinguishes a motorcycle from a car - you hear all the smells, and they do not mix, but suddenly appear and also suddenly disappear. You are just starting to look with your eyes where it comes from, and the smell is already being replaced by another. Maybe the air is unusual here? Clean? Is it his purity and makes everything so bright? It's 8:30 am and I'm already on my motorcycle. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4461065/ I'm heading to Omsk. But first you need to get to the city of Makushino, where I will make a decision on how to move on. There are two options: 1. You can drive through Kazakhstan. Shorter than 100 km, but everyone complains about the Kazakh corrupt border guards and the police. 2. It is possible through Russia. The distance is longer and there is a global repair of the road. Yesterday a friend called and said that a few days ago the speed in this section did not exceed 20 km/h. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4461335/ Departure from Kurgan and now nature reminds me more and more that I'm going through Mother Siberia. I don't believe! As if someone would wake me up and everything would turn out to be a dream. Several times I repeated to myself – “Yes! It's really you Oleg, and you Oleg really ride a motorcycle to the farthest distance! You are really here! Actually!" I drove and smiled. It's weird to smile at myself, but I actually did it. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4461129/ Unnoticed, I reached Makushino. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...n-jpg.4461133/ A fork in the form of a huge ring of circular motion, from which the roads diverge in different directions. I immediately remembered how Arkady Severny once sang (Popular performer of prison folklore of the 70s) “... I am sick, my chest and legs are broken ..., I see three ways in front of me ... And I stand alone on the road ... And I don’t know where to go…". https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...n-jpg.4461153/ I thought, thought and moved towards Kazakhstan, but immediately after the crossroads I stopped. There was a local guy standing near the car. “..No, you better go through Ishim. Here the Kazakhs will torture you to death. First, you will pass the Russian border, then the Kazakh one, then again... You will be tormented... Go through Ishim..” Well, I went through Ishim. After the village of Berdyugye began ... Indeed, the road is being repaired, but somehow strange. Half a meter of rubble was poured onto the road, along which cars and trucks drive. From trucks, the track is such that passenger cars scrape the bottom and leave traces of mufflers on the crushed stone canvas. Two cars were stuck in the oncoming lane, and stones were flying very dangerously from the trucks passing towards me. The stones are large and heavy. One hit on the shoulder, the other hit hard and painful on the leg. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...m-jpg.4461185/ For the first time, an enduro school came in handy for me. The difficulty was that other cars were moving slowly along the track, and at the moment of approach, when you had to let off the gas, the front wheel burrowed and the motorcycle lost stability. I had to stop, wait for the car in front to drive away, and when the distance increased to two hundred meters, start. And so on all the way. At first, those behind me were indignant that I stopped, but later they put up with my driving style. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...m-jpg.4461167/ Twenty kilometers later everything was fine. The road went great. Very soon I entered Ishim. Here in the city, a local motorcyclist Zhenya organized a bike post. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4461205/ Pleasant and cozy place. Everything is very neat and well thought out. The guest house is designed for four people. Probably more can stop here. Everything is there. There is clean linen, a heater, a kettle and electrical outlets. The house is carefully provided with a canister of drinking water, tea leaves, sugar and something like Doshirak. In short, for the traveler there is everything you need. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4461213/ Zhenya left the keys, and he went to work. Tomorrow I will have to leave the key at the appointed place. And today I am comfortably located on the porch and I am writing this post for you. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4461237/ The journey continues...! |
Lots of people reading this Khariton, looking forward to more.
|
03.09.2014 2500 km.
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So - I drove the first 2500 km in my life. This is funny! Especially when I say that it took me two weeks. That's less than 200 km a day! Why?: 1. I have never traveled by motorcycle. I'm like a child learning to walk. 2. My luggage is not packed correctly. Lots of extra stuff. The necessary is missing. 3. On the way, I finish on the motorcycle what I did not have time to do before the start. Motorcycle and modifications: - In general, I am satisfied with the bike. - Electric heated handles were tested yesterday. In the second mode (out of five), they heated quite strongly. Nice feeling. Unusual. - The fuel supply system from the lower tank to the upper one works well. First, fuel is completely consumed in the lower tank, then in the upper (regular) one. When 2 liters remain in the upper tank (40-50 km), the warning light on the dashboard turns on. The total volume in two tanks is 19.5 liters. This is 450 - 500 km at a speed of about 100 km / h. - Fuel consumption today at one of the sites, at a speed of 100 - 110 km.h amounted to 3.7 liters. This is very, very cool! I'm glad I chose the right engine. - The footboard had to be shortened twice. It's good that in Russia you can find argon welding on the road! Now the footrest has finally reached the optimal length, and the motorcycle does not collapse. You can still shorten it by 0.5 cm, but this will not be necessary if I fulfill the promise to reduce the weight of the luggage by a quarter, or replace the shock absorber with a more suitable one. The support platform of the footboard stands steadily even in shifting sand. It seems to me that the contact area is approximately equal to the contact area of the wheel. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4466835/ - The switch of all light, an excellent piece! Now, before starting the motorcycle, I turn off all the lights. This may be needed if I get into winter and cold - it seems that this will happen. If you drive on deserted roads, headlights, marker lights and brake lights are not needed, especially if you want to be invisible. For example, at the entrance to the place where you are going to put up a tent for the night. - Front suspension - 270 mm is very cool! There is no bad road. You see a hole, you prepare for a blow, but there is no blow. In front of you, the car shakes from a rough road, and you drive through the same place, as if everything is even there. - The rear suspension is bad. I replaced the air shock absorber due to its unreliability with a traditional one (spring + hydraulic). It seems to me that the spring is too weak for such a load. Not enough suspension travel. The hydraulics don't work well either. You need to save money for a normal shock absorber. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4466723/ - I don't know how fast the rubber should wear out, but so far, I don't think it wears off at all. Protector looks like new. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4466733/ - Headlights are great! I really like the light. Now, after adjustment, the neighbor does not blind oncoming drivers. Be sure to put xenon! The brightness of an ordinary light bulb is not enough. It will be necessary to put fog lights at the bottom. Yesterday, being in the fog, I realized that if the fog had been denser, I would not have seen anything. Headlights are high and illuminate the foggy cloud. - The location of the navigator is super! Very comfortably. You don't have to take your eyes off the road. Even when you look at the navigator, you see the road in front of you. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4466763/ - Dashboard - great! I set it much higher. No need to look away from the road and lower your head to see. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4466741/ - No ignition lock (no key) - it saved! One corrupt policeman stopped me in Bashkiria. He wanted to pull the ignition key so I couldn't leave and blackmail me. But I don't have an ignition lock or a key! He was very confused...)) I had fun)) - The anti-theft lock is a problem. I keep forgetting to take it off the wheel. Several times I tried to leave when he was strapped to the wheel. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4466773/ - Bags are really very good, but I already know what needs to be changed in them. We have already talked with Sergey and are compiling a list of necessary changes for the next generation. - Steering damper - no way. I haven't been able to connect it yet. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4466777/ - The seat is fine. I spent 200 dollars. I turned to the master to make the seat lower and wider. I regret doing this. The seat became hard and too wide. It makes it hard to stand upright. I plan to return the stock seat as soon as possible. - Helmet - like it! He's a little heavy. But really very comfortable. It creates a sense of security. Not noisy. Glass does not fog up. I like the belt buckle. The visor is not for beauty - it really works from the sun and from stones. The helmet is very simple, but very high quality. - Motosuit - I'm happy! It is really very high quality and comfortable! I ditched the stock knee guards and use motocross knee guards. - Motorcycle boots - very good! It was expensive, but I don't regret it. They are really very comfortable and do not get wet when it rains. I was told that for travel you need to use something more versatile. But I want to be safe. These boots are the most protected of all tourist boots. I also trimmed the photo tripod. I just took and sawed off 15 cm from each link. I replaced the heavy, professional head with a light one. The tripod seriously lost weight and got quite compact dimensions without losing reliability. With fully extended legs and central rod, it reaches a height of 170 cm. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4466967/ I still have a lot of work to do to get the bike ready. You also need to replace the tent, buy a good (warm) sleeping bag. This must be done in Russia before I cross the Mongolian border. Friends will send a lot of necessary details for me to Altai. There the motorcycle will be completed. I spent a lot of time trying to solve the issue of money for the round the world. There was very little time to prepare. Everything has to be decided on the way. I hope I can do everything before I find myself where there is no asphalt, the support of friends and the motorcycle brotherhood. . The journey continues...! |
04.09.2014 Omsk
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4475557/
Approaching the city, the first thing you see is a huge oil refinery. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4475381/ I was expected. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4475397/ Club "Siberian Bears". This place is equipped with everything you need and it is possible to spend the night. Here I spent two nights. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4475531/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4475533/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4475535/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4475539/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4475541/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4475571/ Omsk is indeed a real Siberian city, with real Siberians, well-groomed and clean. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4475391/ . |
05.09.2014 Omsk
I was invited to the cadet school. It is a great honor for me to be where the history of Russia was formed with all its drama.
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4475585/ The school is 200 years old and it is more like a museum. When the Bolsheviks occupied Russia in 1917, the Cadets were evacuated first to Vladivostok and then to Shanghai. A little later, due to the dissatisfaction of the Chinese authorities, they crossed to the Balkans on ships. The young, educated, noble military elite of Russia was doomed. In 1925 the Cadet Corps was disbanded. The Soviet authorities used the building of the Cadet Corps to form their detachments. From here, the newly formed Red Army was sent to the front of the civil war, to destroy partisan resistance and to suppress counter-revolutionary protests. The Cadet Corps was restored only in 1999. But that's a completely different story... https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...n-jpg.4475589/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...n-jpg.4475591/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...A-jpg.4475593/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4475587/ ________________________________ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...8-jpg.4475599/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4475605/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4475609/ I'm getting more and more worried about winter. Winter comes early in Siberia. Immediately with snow and frost. I still have seven thousand kilometers ahead of me, most of which are on the Mongolian steppe, dirt roads. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...9-jpg.4475613/ The journey continues...! |
06.09.2014 Omsk
I planned to go further in the morning, but again they called from the television and made an offer that I could not refuse.
In addition to filming, they promised me to do a city tour and all this was offered by a very nice girl. This was no ordinary shoot. Usually, TV people shoot like a few shots of riding a motorcycle and a short interview with the same questions. This time it was different. She came with a helmet. It was cool! We got on a motorcycle and drove to the Wedding Palace. Yes, it was very similar to a motorcycle wedding)) https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...o-jpg.4532275/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...0-jpg.4532297/ The building of the old Wedding Palace now houses the Center for the Study of the History of the Civil War in Russia. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4532277/ This is the same war (1917-1922) that divided the Russian people. The most bloody and fierce war on the scale of the whole of Russia between the Soviet government and the White movement. According to various estimates, from 10 to 17 million people became victims of this war. Sometimes it seems to me that this war is not over yet... https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4532287/ In Omsk, the Russian writer Dostoevsky was serving hard labor (punitive labor, accompanied by exile). In tsarist Russia, he was convicted for participating in a circle of freethinkers fighting for the abolition of serfdom and freedom of speech. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4532291/ We wandered around the city for a long time, along the banks of the Irtysh River. It was a truly special day. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...B-jpg.4532293/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...A-jpg.4532309/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...r-jpg.4532295/ I will come here again..! The journey continues..! |
07.09.2014 Omsk - Novosibirsk
Omsk was cool! This is one of the main cities of Russian Siberia with all its drama.
The history of the city makes you wonder what Russia has lost from the power of Lenin and Stalin. What irreparable damage these characters brought to Russia and the peoples living on its territory. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4534645/ Morning has come and I need to move on. Rather, the morning did not come, but came with pain and suffering. At six in the morning, a cramp pierced my leg like a knife. Sometimes you pat on the leg, pull and the pain goes away. This time the pain was ten out of ten and did not let go for ages! I fell off the couch and tumbled across the floor in an attempt to do something about this unbearable torment. I beat with all my might on the leg with my fist and tried to stretch the pinched muscle with my fingers. I pulled the toe of my foot in different directions and shook my leg with all my urine, but the pain did not let go. It was hell! It all ended as unexpectedly as it began. I got up and realized that I could not step on my foot. Maybe it was the consequences of a cramp, or maybe from the fact that I beat my leg with my fist with all my might. Leaving Omsk, I drove past a huge prison fence. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to take a good photo, but the spectacle is impressive. This prison has a bad reputation. Very bad fame ... God forbid someone get here. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4534647/ The sun, the road is excellent. I like to eat in roadside eateries, it's very cheap ($2-3 for breakfast and $7-10 for a full, big lunch), I have the opportunity to talk with truck drivers, find out the situation on the road. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...A-jpg.4534651/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4534671/ I met motorcyclists at the gas station. They raced from Krasnoyarsk and wanted to make an Iron Ass. I hope they succeeded. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...s-jpg.4534653/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4534673/ A policeman stopped me. He stood near the road, and his "police Zhiguli" (Soviet small car VAZ 2105) were hidden behind the trees. He approached smiling. Why did you stop..? His question surprised me very much - how is it why? Have you given a stop sign? - Yes, but Russian motorcyclists never stop. Only foreigners stop. You are the first Russian motorcyclist who stopped. He shook my hand and walked away smiling. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4534657/ All was good. Difficulties began with the darkening. The temperature dropped sharply. +3C on the thermometer. I'm wearing thermal underwear, all linings, a fleece jacket. Heated handles help a lot. Feet don't get cold at all. I think this is a merit of huge protection with a gas tank and front bags. The headwind almost does not hit the legs, and the heat from the engine warms the foot. Night fell and I kept driving. After midnight the temperature dropped to +1C. One hundred kilometers left to Novosibirsk. Refueling on the left side. I drove in, filled up and got on the road. What happened to me at that moment is not clear. Some blur. The navigator requires me to turn around, but it seemed to me that it had some kind of glitch. I didn't want to believe him. The moon, which was all the way to the right, signaled me with its cold rays in my left eye, but I did not pay attention to it. The settlement of Kokoshino, which appeared again on my way, did not bother me either. I just thought “.. Strange people. Do they have no imagination at all ..? Even the sign, with an arrow in a passing direction and the inscription Omsk, did not arouse any suspicion. Fifty kilometers after the ill-fated gas station, I was sure that I was going in the right direction. Suddenly, something happened, and all the signals lined up in a single cry, “Where are you going, fool?! "Now I understand... Oh, how it was a shame from the lost time and kilometers. I constantly stopped myself so as not to accelerate too much, and the hand just wanted to unscrew the gas to the fullest to compensate for a lot of dead time. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...A-jpg.4534661/ I entered Novosibirsk almost at one in the morning. The person who was supposed to shelter me turned off the phone for another three hours before my arrival, and I had to find a hotel. Well done navigator! The first option turned out to be very successful. Eight hundred rubles a day ($15), I'm in the room and the motorcycle is in a closed garage. Hotel "Naberezhnaya" is almost in the very center of the city. Hooray! Bask in a hot shower and sleep on clean sheets! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4534665/ The journey continues..! |
07.09.2014 Novosibirsk
What a pleasure to sleep for a long time. I overslept breakfast. This happens to me all the time.
Today I could oversleep and lunch time .. I like when breakfast is not included in the price and you can save money on it. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...g-jpg.4544435/ ⠀ My tiny room is crammed with things taken apart from trunks. I brought the scales. Now I know what weighs the most - parts. ⠀ I planned to get rid of unnecessary things at each parking lot, but today I have to do the opposite - buy a tent and a sleeping bag. Further, there will be no tourist shops on my way to Mongolia. Even here, in a relatively large city, the choice is very poor. All points where you can buy equipment are installed in the navigator. First, I will go around all the shops and see everything. Only after I am sure that I have chosen the best, I will decide to buy. A tent and a sleeping bag - a lot will depend on them - the weight of the luggage and the comfort of my overnight stays. http://https://www.advrider.com/f/at...g-jpg.4544435/ I chose the tent a long time ago (I met it in various stores along the way), despite this I was not too lazy to disassemble it myself and test it in the store. Minimum capacity. Motorcycle bags won't fit in here. Large weight (2.5kg) due to strong fabric. There is a very important feature - it can be installed and assembled without disconnecting the inner layer from the outer one, which means quick installation and will not flood with water in the rain. There is a drawback - one entrance. This is bad for ventilation and safety. Why security? By the fact that it will be scary when from the side where there is no entrance and window, there will be sounds of approaching steps or something else approaching, but I will not be able to look. There was an option in Ufa with two entrances, but it was bright orange. In my case, it's better to be invisible. Khaki is perfect! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4544437/ With a sleeping bag, the story is even more complicated. I need a very warm, very light and very compact sleeping bag. It should definitely be synthetic and should not be too expensive. All these tasks interfere with each other to exist. In Moscow, the option I needed had a price of a thousand dollars. This is too much for me. In the end, I found a sleeping bag for $350 Now I am the happy owner of a bag weighing a little more than one and a half kilograms and measuring thirty by forty. According to the manufacturer's promises, it should be comfortable from -5C to -9C. ⠀ There is good news - only in this city I could find "Antigrizzlies". This is a cylinder capable of throwing a jet of pepper mixture at a distance of five to six meters, which can stop a huge dog or bear rushing at me. In practice, I do not know how it will work, but with a balloon I will be calmer. ⠀ Couldn't find a proper water filter. Is he needed? Maybe it's better to use disinfectant tablets? ⠀ Spent most of the day shopping. It is necessary to return to the hotel as soon as possible, put things in trunks and prepare for tomorrow's road. ⠀ Parsing things becomes some kind of endless procedure. As before, the volume of junk does not allow me to live in peace. Gotta do something about it.. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...k-jpg.4544445/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4544447/ ⠀ To be continued… |
08.09.2014 Novosibirsk - Mountain Altai
Outside the window is a gray and cool morning. I'm going again for too long.
I still try to organize all my luggage so that every thing has its place, and I can quickly find and get what I need. One day it will be. Novosibirsk with gloomy weather and a dull landscape is catching up with melancholy. The sky is covered with clouds. A terrible wind kicks up dirt and sand from the road. Hail began on the outskirts of the city. Despite all the darkness, I did not lose heart - After a long flight from Moscow, friends are waiting for me in Gorno-Altaisk. Andrey and Katya flew in specifically to support the traveler and bring the necessary wheels, on which I will move further along the impassability of Mongolia. ⠀ Not far from Barnaul. Altai Territory meets with heavy rain. I did not put on the Rain Suit, assuming that the rain was light, now it is too late to put it on. There is a membrane lining under the jacket and I don't get wet. I didn’t put on a membrane under my pants, and now a cold trickle down my leg oozes into a motorcycle boot. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...w-jpg.4569183/ This informational poster is actually lying. Only in the modern world did the Chuisky tract begin to connect Novosibirsk with the Mongolian border. The truly Chuisky tract was the name of the road from Biysk to Mongolia, and at that time Novosibirsk did not exist at all. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4569181/ Here is Barnaul. According to the plan, I was going to visit local motorcyclists who organized a motorcycle bar here. You can't pass the bar. A huge motorcycle stands at the entrance. Rain, rain and more rain... My yellow vest, fastened to a motorcycle jacket, is perfectly visible against the background of gray weather. A very handy thing. Depending on whether you need to be noticeable or vice versa, you just turn it over to the right side. ⠀ With dusk, the rain became less frequent. Passed Biysk. I will have to return to this city later. I drove through Gorno-Altaisk in complete darkness. Another fifty kilometers and I'm there. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4569193/ Because of the darkness, I see only the road in the headlights, only the complete impenetrability of light on the left side indicates that the road goes at the foot of the mountain. ⠀ More and more often, with peripheral vision, I notice some shadows on the side of the road. I look, but I don't see anything. What is it? I zigzag the road so that the headlights illuminate the curb. God..! A whole herd of cows graze along the road! I slow down quickly. All this time I was moving about 110 km / h. If at least one of the cows decided to cross the road, there would be little chance of staying alive. ⠀ Here is the hotel! Here is Katya and Andrey! Hooray! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...a-jpg.4569211/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...A-jpg.4569219/ The journey continues...! |
09.09.2014 Mountain Altai (Russia)
Woke up after eleven. Sun! The air is so pure that it burns the lungs. In the window, a view from a fairy tale!
⠀ Andrei practices yoga, bathes in ice-cold water, takes various poses. I never liked to run, but today he made me. From shoes I only have crocs and army boots. I run in boots. We ran five kilometers. Fine. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...v-jpg.4572573/ Breakfast..! After running through the mountain air, ordinary oatmeal seems to be something breathtaking. And outside the window the sun is playing with glare in the mountain river and the forest ... It's a pity you can't try it now ... ⠀ Today the guys are in Barnaul, on a plane, and back to Moscow. They are insane..! They brought me wheels and spare parts, rested for a day and back, thousands of kilometers. Adventurousness ten out of ten! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...9-jpg.4572577/ I went to see them off for a few miles. We hugged and parted. I'm back at the hotel until tomorrow, and the guys went to Barnaul airport. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...i-jpg.4572579/ Almost hit a cow. She was standing with her back to the road, but suddenly she turned sharply and went towards me. It's good that it's not night now ..! https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...n-jpg.4572581/ ⠀ Somehow it became sad. Tomorrow is the road again. Tomorrow I will go to Biysk. ⠀ The journey continues...! |
Before I write posts further, I want to say a few words about Altai.
https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...y-jpg.4582765/ Altai is a special place in every respect. The place is unique! There probably aren't any more like this in the world. ⠀ Here, natural elements are combined that should not be nearby - Siberian forests, mountain rivers, desert and steppes. All this is in close proximity and in one day you can visit several climatic zones at once (if you are on a motorcycle). ⠀ The people are special too. Local peoples and Siberians mixed up here. From this mixture in Altai, special relationships between people were formed. Here it is important to be able to understand people well, to have a flair for how to behave correctly. People here do not believe the words and the way you look. What matters here is what you do, how you act. ⠀ As elsewhere in Russia, but especially in Siberia, there are no gray tones here. Everything here is black or white. If evil, then the worst thing in the world. If good, then such that you will remember all your life. This is typical for Russia, but here it manifests itself strongly. If you got here to bad people - trouble .. If to good ones - they will remain forever in your heart. ⠀ I planned to travel Altai in 3-4 days. As a result, I got to the border of Mongolia only after 2 weeks. . |
10.09.2014 Altai, Biysk (Russia)
There are such people.
We go important, we dress brightly, we buy big cars so that we can be seen from afar. But there are people who do not need all this. And it cannot be said that they are not at all noticeable, they just get lost a little against the general background. ⠀ I met Edey when I arrived in Biysk. A friend referred him. - Go to Edward. He will help.. Shop "Everything for motorcycles" Biysk https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4613503/ I went. I waited two hours for him. I already wanted to leave. He appeared quietly, insinuatingly somehow. I hear someone calling nearby, I turn around and did not even notice at first that a person was standing next to me. Thin, in a tracksuit as if from someone else's shoulder. Stands, smiles.. "Edik .." - he says. He holds out his hand and breaks into such an infectious smile that it’s as if an electric light bulb has lit in front of me. The energy in this guy is like a perpetual motion machine. Everything is fast. For what it takes, everything turns out. http://https://www.advrider.com/f/at...1-jpg.4613507/ We've only known each other for five minutes, and he's already planned everything. - “Now we are going to my house, have dinner and go to the bathhouse, and tomorrow morning we will deal with your affairs .. I hope you have arrived for a long time ?.” He seems to be smaller than the steering wheel in his bus. But gradually I feel that there is no free space around this person. All space is filled with his energy. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...1-jpg.4613527/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4613529/ The son is like him in every way. He does everything just as quickly, he also succeeds in an adult way. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...6-jpg.4613531/ As Edya promised, there was dinner and a bath. And not just dinner. From somewhere, a mountain of crayfish appeared on the table, all the most delicious from the cellars got. Bath, tea, a whole room and a huge bed at my disposal. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...5-jpg.4613533/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...3-jpg.4613535/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...4-jpg.4613539/ https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...7-jpg.4613541/ This guy met me as a brother, as the closest and dearest person. But today he found out about my existence for the first time! ⠀ Tomorrow we decided to service the motorcycle. Well, they decided, it’s loudly said ... Edya decided everything and figured out everything how we would do it. https://www.advrider.com/f/attachmen...2-jpg.4613545/ The journey continues..! |
Loving this story :)
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Thank you for sharing. Your writing is incredibly observational and you have a talent for putting it in words. Can't wait for the next installment.
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