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Back down the switchbacks of Tizi n'Tichka http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4192-L.jpg Back down in the Plains of Marrakesh, the weather gets sunnier again. Still not that warm though... Our ride into Marrakesh was unremarkable. Our original intention was to try to find a place outside of the medinas and then ride in one day to visit the souks, thus avoiding the hustlers. But we found that all the accommodations were so expensive. It really was cheaper to stay in the old city, I think because the hotels in the modern areas of the city were frequented by people on business with bigger budgets and corporate expense accounts. So it was back to the medinas with the rest of the backpackers and vacationers. Like before, we had to park outside the walls of the old city and I dove in on foot while Neda watched the bikes. I made a mistake not getting the exact GPS co-ordinates of our riad in Marrakesh before arriving. All I had was a Google Map location which maybe gets you in the right time zone when it comes to navigating in the medinas of Morocco... Lost in the labyrinths of Marrakesh, I couldn't find the place where we were staying and against my inclinations, I had to enlist the help of one of the touts waiting for business. But not before negotiating a price. After some walking around, it seemed my young guide did not know where the riad was, but he flagged down another guy on a motorcycle who seemed to know and the guy on the bike motioned for me to get on the back seat. The riad should have been close by and I didn't want to pay extra for a ride, so I declined and followed his bike on foot. Our guesthouse was only a few hundred meters away and at the door of the riad, I settled up with the first guy who I asked for directions. He immediately took off, leaving the motorcycle guide looking at me expectantly. Thus I was introduced to a new hustle in Marrakesh - I call it the "Everyone Gets Paid". Basically whoever you make a deal with enlists as many people he can get to help you out, then you are expected to pay everyone involved. *nuh-uh* I shook my head. "Go chase after your friend and get your money, I didn't make a deal with you". He looked pissed, probably a mixture of play-acting and annoyance that the "Everyone Gets Paid" hustle didn't work. Too bad, so sad. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0030-L.jpg Once more, into the fray we go. Into the medinas of Morocco |
We were both in a very bad mood in Marrakesh. The hustlers were wearing us down and we didn't feel like leaving the riad. Why did we even bother coming to the city then? It took great effort of will to don our armour and go exploring once again.
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0014-L.jpg Grounds of the El Badi Palace One of the first attractions just outside our riad was the El Badi Palace. Built in the late 1500s, it was built to celebrate (gloat) over the Moroccan's victory against the war with the Portuguese. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0020-L.jpg Good luck storks atop one of the towers in the palace http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0010-L.jpg Stork in flight, baby already delivered http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_1763-L.jpg Proof that I was there http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0357-L.jpg Reflections in the pools at El Badi Palace |
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Copper lamps in a Marrakesh souk http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0114-L.jpg Talk to the Khamsa The Khamsa means "Five" in Arabic and in this instance refers to an open palm symbol that is often used in artwork and jewelry as a sign of protection and to ward off the evil eye. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0044-L.jpg More peering into mosques that we were forbidden to enter. Such intricate designs inside! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0057-L.jpg Snake charmer in the souk Djemaa-El-Fna is the largest souk in Marrakech, located in the main square of the old city. Snake charmers are known to frequent this area and we really wanted to see snakes being charmed. Before taking pictures, I asked the guy above playing the flute how much and his buddy beside him answered 10 dirham. Okay, deal. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0096-L.jpg The snake glistened menacingly like it was made of shiny, moving metal |
The guy playing the flute motioned for me to come closer, he kept kicking at the snake to maneuver it into a position so I could get a better shot. I think either the snake was not poisonous or it was defanged, he didn't seem at all concerned about his (or my) safety. Thankfully I have a zoom lens...
I don't think the flute player was doing anything special. The snake didn't seemed very hypnotized or charmed or anything. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0105-L.jpg This was as close to the snake as I dared go After I was done taking pictures, the flute-player's buddy took my 10 dirham and promptly got up and walked away, disappearing into the crowd. Oh no. Is this "Everyone Gets Paid" all over again? I looked at the flute player waiting with his outstretched hand. Yep. I shook my head, turned around vowed never to engage with street vendors and hustlers again as he called out to me for his money. "Everyone Gets Paid" only works if tourists start falling for it and I wasn't going to contribute to this behaviour. I had no doubt in my mind that he would get his 10 dirham once his buddy came back. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0113-L.jpg We went to a fancy restaurant which was supposed to serve good tajine. Not impressed. Too many raisins. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0122-L.jpg Waiting for business http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0129-XL.jpg Looking out the window is a favorite past-time all over the world http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...0%282%29-L.jpg Men in traditional Berber hats walking around the souk So in the end there was nothing mystical or mysterious about Marrakesh. Nothing that we hadn't seen in any of the other medinas of Morocco. It just confirmed that we are so done with medinas and souks. |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/218.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map218-L.jpg Good riddance, Marrakech! It's been freezing during our whole time in Morocco. When we left Europe, we looked forward to baking in the scorching African desert sun. That so didn't happen... we've been bundled up in all of our layers for the last three weeks! During our stay in Boulmane, we chatted with a tour guide who said that the warmest part of Morocco this time of year would be Agadir, on the western coast. So that's where we're going! So back over the High Atlas Mountains once again in search of warm weather. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4195-L.jpg Sharing the road with vehicles of varying horsepower http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...IMG_4689-L.jpg Our search for the perfect tajine continues in a small village along the way We are heading south-west on the R203, which goes up and over the High Atlas Mountains. After lunch, the road takes us through the N'fis valley, where we are given a good idea as to what the roads are going to look like. As well as a great view too! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0157-L.jpg Nice! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0164-L.jpg Neda bundled up against the cold |
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Twisty roads always put smiles on our faces! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0153-L.jpg Plenty of picturesque villages line the road heading over the High Atlas Mountains http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4233-L.jpg Palm trees to cacti http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4262-L.jpg Road starting to climb the mountains The R203 is called the Tizi n'Test once it starts to climb up over the High Atlas to over 2000m. The entertaining part is when it steeply descends, offering us plenty of switchbacks and twists and turns, however it's hard to concentrate with the scenery just off to the side and below. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4270-L.jpg The Tizi n'Test winds back and forth over the High Atlas, offering us marvelous views down below |
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Neda ducking below some rocky overhangs http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4280-L.jpg Another roadside stop to admire the view of the valley below As we descended from the High Atlas mountains towards the coast, the weather got very, very warm - in the mid-20s. At our next gas stop, we peeled off all of our layers, this was the first time in a long time that I was able to wear just a T-shirt under my mesh jacket. Felt so good! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...9_170242-L.jpg Surprise roadside gifts! Just outside of Agadir, we noticed we were being paced by a car, which is not that unusual for us since we were quite an oddity rolling around on Moroccan roads on our huge behemoths. At a stoplight, the passenger rolled down his window to talk to us. He spoke English, but not any kind of English - Canadian English! Haha! We pulled over to chat. Yassine is from Mississauga (just outside of Toronto) and he was visiting family in Morocco. He told us he was so surprised to see Ontario plates on our bikes! He imports Moroccan oranges to Canada so he gave us a sample of his goods. Nice guy! And it was awesome getting a chance to speak Canadian again, eh?! :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/Agadir-L.jpg Hanging out at our hostel after breakfast in Agadir http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0167-L.jpg Agadir is a beach-side resort town, luxury hotels line the coast There was a huge earthquake in 1960 which completely destroyed Agadir, so the city was rebuilt from the ground up a few kms away. A lot of famous architects were hired to help in the rebuild and the result is a very modern place, quite unlike any Moroccan city because it contains no remnants of the old country. |
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The warm weather year-round makes it very popular place to spend a vacation http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SC_0227-XL.jpg Modesty on the sands Morocco is considered a moderate Muslim country. They have more relaxed attitudes towards women's dress and behaviour here than in other strict countries. It was interesting seeing full burqas on the beach mingled with the bikinis of the tourists. Still, outside the beaches some tourists do push the limits of tolerance. In Marrakesh a few days ago, we saw a trio of British girls walking the souks in sandals and skirts cut above the knee. They were totally oblivious to the shocked and disapproving looks of everyone! http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0204-L.jpg Moroccan flags flapping in winds from the shore We spent quite a bit of time just soaking up the warm weather on the beach, it was very therapeutic after such a long spell of cold weather. I was a bit disappointed that we had already booked our accommodations in the next town. I had no idea Agadir would be this pleasant, we would totally have stayed at least a couple of days more! :( http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4298-L.jpg Stopped for lunch at a small town just outside of Agadir http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...SCN4299-XL.jpg Amazing seafood here! :) |
We're discovering new places all the time. Just earlier, I had bookmarked Agadir as a place to spend a few days if we were ever back again, but now having ridden a few kms outside, we discovered the best place to stay in the area is actually in some of the smaller towns north of the city. The rocky coast is very picturesque and there's less of a western resort-feel, which is totally what we like.
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4306-L.jpg Our bikes weaved across the road as the winds from the Atlantic Ocean grew very fierce. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0234-L.jpg We were driving north as the road cut inland and we saw an unusual sight... One of our friends told us about these goats in Morocco that could climb trees, so we were constantly on the lookout for them. We spotted a whole bunch of them just south of Essaouira. We had quite a laugh watching them jump up on the branches to get a nibble of the Argan fruit, which is indigenous to this area. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0247-L.jpg These guys were extraordinarily nimble and some of them got quite high in the tree! These goats are quite essential to the economy in this area. Everywhere, we'd see stands and stalls selling Argan oil. It's used for beauty products for the skin and for cooking. The oil is actually extracted from the hard nut inside the food, but only after it's eaten and excreted by these goats! We didn't buy any Argan oil... http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0250-L.jpg They must be pretty light too, some of these branches did not look like they could support the weight of several of these goats! :) http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSCN4311-L.jpg Even the camels got in on the action http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0287-L.jpg I climbed up to see what all the fuss was about. The goats didn't seem to like that too much and fled to another tree (you can see one under my right arm) After pooping out some Argan seeds, I hopped on my bike and we were off to further explore the western coast! |
Hi,
I just want you to know that I really enjoy reading your travel stories and the beautiful pictures. |
Maroc
Hi guys, excellent writing as usual, if you get tired of the wind on the coast check out Tafraoute, a bit inland and a microclime hemmed in by mountains with nice roads and trails. I hated Agadir and the coast (too many fat underdressed tourists) keep us posted and stay cool, its May now and its gonna get hot:-))
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What stunning pictures. Thanks for sharing :)
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/219.html
We have a lot of footage that we've shot from our last four weeks in Morocco and it's been a while since I've done some video editing, so here's what I've been working on! |
Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/220.html
http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...L/map219-L.jpg Our 1-month insurance policy is slowly ticking down and we are quietly exiting Morocco. Under overcast skies, we arrived at the port town of Essaouira and against our inclinations, we book an accommodation inside the medina once again because the city hotels were too expensive. We did the familiar Moroccan dance - Neda staying with the bikes outside the old city's walls while I dodged hustlers looking for our riad. I've been taking point on all scouting and communications forays because of my (slightly better) knowledge of French, but after the last few weeks it has really started to wear on me. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0290-L.jpg While it has a typical Moroccan medina, Essaouira is also known for its picturesque port and docks We're staying a couple of days here to catch our breath before continuing the trek out of Morocco. It seems like the salt water breeze carries seagulls from all over the coast to this one place, hoping to pick at food coming in from the fishing boats and falling off the tables at the tourist restaurants. http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0328-L.jpg Boats under construction at the shipyard http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0315-L.jpg These blue-coloured boats all parked outside the medina walls are perhaps the unofficial symbol of Essaouira http://mym0ry.smugmug.com/Motorcycle...DSC_0318-L.jpg A hooded figure surveys the boats coming in |
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